Great video. Through watching it I've also serviced my Hymek with the same motor. A fiddly thing to do, but now it works beautifully. I've also serviced a Hornby Ringfield and a Lima Ringfield after watching your videos and all the engines are running well again. Thank you.
Got a couple of those Hymeks now. Great looking locos - of course I'm biased as my first proper train set was the Tri-ang big Big Train Blue Flyer from my grandfather. Spent hours in their front room on the floor running that thing. Must have got in my blood I think! Recently got one of mine running gain after a long period of neglect. The motor noise is so distinctive!
Recently got a “Mint” one of these in Green, ran like a Rolls Royce Straight from the box. Will be able to reference this tho when she needs a service. Great Tutorial . Many thanks Bill 🙏🏻
Thank you very much for this very explicit servicing video, I just bought one second hand (obviously) from KESR Tenterden museum for my dad. Sadly it is a very grumpy machine so I will follow thoroughly your video wishing for an happy ending!
Still one of the prettiest diesels from the time and I had the green version of this as a boy, I still remember picking it out in Scotch Corner in Kilmarnock just on looks. Although my layout will be set in Scotland I still plan to have a Hymek cos they are nice, ditto the Class 31s which are probably my favourite diesels of all despite never having ran around here.
Interesting video - thanks. I had one of these new as a boy in the late 60s or early 70s and from new it ran like crap. I can remember the disappointment to this day. So well done getting that thing to work! Still got a soft spot for Hymeks though.
ooooh now you say it i remember the black and white tv when i was a kid went fuzzy when i ran the older triang trains :D With reference to the capacitors :p
great ,informative footage- BUT I, personally would never use grease on wheels (fantastic for use on the gear,s and teeth !!) or armature- bearings !! these metal bearings are designed to be slightly porous as to allow a tiny amount of the appropriate oil to "soak" into the metal - I would have thought that grease would have caused to much "drag " on the motor and wheels ?? also that may be the reason its quite a noisy runner ?? I would recommend a light, thin, -plastic compatible oil , maybe "Singer sowing machine oil " or "Peco " lube ??
Ive found that when taking the body off these that I have used normal standard business cards next to where the clips are , ie lever the body off the chassis and then if not big enough to get the whole body away from the clips then use two business cards on top of each other where each retaining clip is. They are a good looking engine arent they but are a tad loud but also adds to the sound of them. Anyhoo you probly already know this. Also what is the cleaning solution you use ie brand and name for the axles bearings and brushes ansd springs etc called please. Cheers from John in Australia.
Have a question for you Bill. If the wheels have nylon gears, can they go in the cleaning fluid? Love these instruction videos. You have single handedly been instrumental in rekindling my interest in 00 gauge railways.
Hello very good work, that it is the product you use. Thanks in advance. Bonjour très bon travail, qu'elle est le produit que vous utiliser. Merci d'avance
O.K. this is getting scary now. I've watched three of these in a row and every model has been the exact same one I had as a kid. The R350 mallard, The R751 class 37 Co-Co diesel and now this one. If the next video is my R858 Southern M7 I'll be properly freaked out. lol
@@oobill lol. Actually your videos have been very helpful. I'm just getting back into the hobby and my old locos have been in storage for some years. I'd given them a quick service and run them in, but they're still a bit noisy and juddery for my liking, especially when I compare them to a couple of new ones I've just bought, so you've given me some useful insights in to what could improve their performance.
Hi. Great video. I have an r758. I want to take the drive wheels out to clean properly. Can I just undo the brass plate underneath and remove wheels that way without dislodging anything else? Many thanks.
Hi Bill ,, would the capacitor keep some voltage in the wires to get the loco across points and diamond crossing but being so small do you think it would make much difference to them stopping on points and diamond crossings. I have tried that and dosent seem to make any difference when i used to run them. Anyhoo keep the good work and gr8 video's there Bill and thankyou. Cheers from John in Australia
recently got one of these and it needs a service as youve done to yours ,but after loosing a hand in an accident i cannot do it myself .would you be willing to do the service for you if i was to post it to you ,many thanks
i have just bought a hymek class 35 in freightmaster set on ebay, and it isnt running, do you do repairs for other people, i would love to have mine running like that.
This really shouldn't be this noisy. Check the fit of the bearings in the housing and make sure the mesh with the gears is ok. However if you have a pwm controller then this will make many motors buzz unnecessarily. E.g. the basic hornby controller is in fact pwm, but gaugemaster tend not to be. A Triang hymek was my first loco back In the day. You are lucky as you bought a late version with the extra pickups.
Since uploading I've added more oil to the gears, tightened the bearing clips and reduced the magnets to two neos instead of four and its running as quiet as I'd ever expect it to. Its maybe even quieter than my 37 which surprises me. I was very careful to buy one with the front pickup as I know the earlier ones didn't have it. 😉
Hi bill I’ve got the exact same loco it’s been put away in a draw because it didn’t run I followed your video to try and get it running again it moves but very slow have you any ideas to solve this please.
The wheels stay in fine as they are held in place with the underplate. The magnets were put there to provide some magnetic traction on older Hornby steel track. They serve little or no purpose on modern nickel track.
@@TheAntisocialTrain If the track is modern nickel track it won't be magnetic therefore the traction magnets do nothing. Put a magnet to your track and if it sticks then the traction magnets will improve traction a little. If it doesn't then they won't.
Not really. I'd only consider "running in" a loco with brand new brushes or new gears. But yes sometimes it takes a loco a couple of laps round the track to behave properly after a service.
Great video. Through watching it I've also serviced my Hymek with the same motor. A fiddly thing to do, but now it works beautifully. I've also serviced a Hornby Ringfield and a Lima Ringfield after watching your videos and all the engines are running well again. Thank you.
Got a couple of those Hymeks now. Great looking locos - of course I'm biased as my first proper train set was the Tri-ang big Big Train Blue Flyer from my grandfather. Spent hours in their front room on the floor running that thing. Must have got in my blood I think! Recently got one of mine running gain after a long period of neglect. The motor noise is so distinctive!
Great job. That model doesn’t require a sound chip .. it makes enough noise by itself
It is really challenging getting those brushes in and I have two class 35’s
Very interesting and well done. What a difference that service has made. It's now a fine locomotive. Many thanks for sharing.
Recently got a “Mint” one of these in Green, ran like a Rolls Royce Straight from the box. Will be able to reference this tho when she needs a service. Great Tutorial . Many thanks Bill 🙏🏻
Thank you very much for this very explicit servicing video, I just bought one second hand (obviously) from KESR Tenterden museum for my dad. Sadly it is a very grumpy machine so I will follow thoroughly your video wishing for an happy ending!
Still one of the prettiest diesels from the time and I had the green version of this as a boy, I still remember picking it out in Scotch Corner in Kilmarnock just on looks. Although my layout will be set in Scotland I still plan to have a Hymek cos they are nice, ditto the Class 31s which are probably my favourite diesels of all despite never having ran around here.
Interesting video - thanks. I had one of these new as a boy in the late 60s or early 70s and from new it ran like crap. I can remember the disappointment to this day. So well done getting that thing to work! Still got a soft spot for Hymeks though.
Loved my hymek, magnetic wheels, had to change magnets around so locomotive would travel same direction as other locomotives
The Capacitor reduces the Brushes Arcing /sparking between Brushes and Commutator and it prolongs the Brush life
Great purchase and really interesting service video Bill
Nick Australia
Thanks for that video Bill. I have learnt a lot of useful information from it.
Good service video. It will help me rebuild my 37.
I'm planning on servicing my 37 soon and trying it with the neo mags and washers solution. I'll video it.
I was shocked (no pun intended) when you first tried running it, and there were some sparks flying from the wheels.
I remember these back in the 70s, they were pretty loud and grumbly even when new, much like the real thing.
Old guitar picks are great for sliding along to release the body clips!
So are my fingernails which are also guitar picks!
What a bargin ebay find!
Great addition, and video.
As a child in the 60's I liked the modern look of the Hymek but have never owned one.
Yeah I always wanted one when I was a kid for the same reason. Then the 125 came out! Finally got a Hymek but will I get a 125?
I agree with every one else. Well done you do make it look easy
ooooh now you say it i remember the black and white tv when i was a kid went fuzzy when i ran the older triang trains :D
With reference to the capacitors :p
Thanks for sharing some great tips
Great video. What kind of metal cleaning fluid are you using? It's really effective on those copper contacts.
great ,informative footage- BUT I, personally would never use grease on wheels (fantastic for use on the gear,s and teeth !!) or armature- bearings !! these metal bearings are designed to be slightly porous as to allow a tiny amount of the appropriate oil to "soak" into the metal - I would have thought that grease would have caused to much "drag " on the motor and wheels ?? also that may be the reason its quite a noisy runner ?? I would recommend a light, thin, -plastic compatible oil , maybe "Singer sowing machine oil " or "Peco " lube ??
They are called 'sintered bearings' (from the manufacturing process), but they are designed to be used with 'ordinary' oil, rather than grease.
These particular locomotives just noisy. Maybe it would be slightly less noisy if lubricated as you suggest, but it'd still be noisy.
Ive found that when taking the body off these that I have used normal standard business cards next to where the clips are , ie lever the body off the chassis and then if not big enough to get the whole body away from the clips then use two business cards on top of each other where each retaining clip is.
They are a good looking engine arent they but are a tad loud but also adds to the sound of them. Anyhoo you probly already know this.
Also what is the cleaning solution you use ie brand and name for the axles bearings and brushes ansd springs etc called please.
Cheers from John in Australia.
Optimal service :) Well done :)
Have a question for you Bill. If the wheels have nylon gears, can they go in the cleaning fluid? Love these instruction videos. You have single handedly been instrumental in rekindling my interest in 00 gauge railways.
Bravo OOBill ! Stéph.
Hello very good work, that it is the product you use. Thanks in advance. Bonjour très bon travail, qu'elle est le produit que vous utiliser. Merci d'avance
O.K. this is getting scary now. I've watched three of these in a row and every model has been the exact same one I had as a kid. The R350 mallard, The R751 class 37 Co-Co diesel and now this one. If the next video is my R858 Southern M7 I'll be properly freaked out. lol
Well I have had my eye on one or two BR M7s. But you're OK. Next loco not likely to be that although now you've told me....
@@oobill lol. Actually your videos have been very helpful. I'm just getting back into the hobby and my old locos have been in storage for some years. I'd given them a quick service and run them in, but they're still a bit noisy and juddery for my liking, especially when I compare them to a couple of new ones I've just bought, so you've given me some useful insights in to what could improve their performance.
Hi. Great video. I have an r758. I want to take the drive wheels out to clean properly. Can I just undo the brass plate underneath and remove wheels that way without dislodging anything else? Many thanks.
Yes you can. But when refitting them make sure the wiper pickups are on the inside of the wheels. It'll be easier if you remove the loco body.
Hi Bill ,, would the capacitor keep some voltage in the wires to get the loco across points and diamond crossing but being so small do you think it would make much difference to them stopping on points and diamond crossings.
I have tried that and dosent seem to make any difference when i used to run them.
Anyhoo keep the good work and gr8 video's there Bill and thankyou.
Cheers from John in Australia
No it's just a suppressor to reduce interference on some appliances such as old TVs and radios back in the day.
@@oobill ahh .. ok my bad I thought you called it a capacitipor ,, sorry about that bill.
Cheers from John in Australia
What cleaning solution do you use please as we'd like to get some
Where does that Hum come from?
Hi great video what metal cleaner do you use please
Look up clock cleaning fluid.
recently got one of these and it needs a service as youve done to yours ,but after loosing a hand in an accident i cannot do it myself .would you be willing to do the service for you if i was to post it to you ,many thanks
i have just bought a hymek class 35 in freightmaster set on ebay, and it isnt running, do you do repairs for other people, i would love to have mine running like that.
This really shouldn't be this noisy. Check the fit of the bearings in the housing and make sure the mesh with the gears is ok. However if you have a pwm controller then this will make many motors buzz unnecessarily. E.g. the basic hornby controller is in fact pwm, but gaugemaster tend not to be.
A Triang hymek was my first loco back In the day. You are lucky as you bought a late version with the extra pickups.
Since uploading I've added more oil to the gears, tightened the bearing clips and reduced the magnets to two neos instead of four and its running as quiet as I'd ever expect it to. Its maybe even quieter than my 37 which surprises me.
I was very careful to buy one with the front pickup as I know the earlier ones didn't have it. 😉
@@oobill the ones with the pickup only on the power bogie actually run pretty well, as i've got a few.
Hi bill I’ve got the exact same loco it’s been put away in a draw because it didn’t run I followed your video to try and get it running again it moves but very slow have you any ideas to solve this please.
Quite often these motors run very slow from cold . Try just running it for a while on max power. If everything is clean and lubricated it'll speed up.
Fab vid Bill
Quick question, how does your 37s wheels stay in without the traction magnets. If its easy to keep them in maybe I will remove mine
The wheels stay in fine as they are held in place with the underplate. The magnets were put there to provide some magnetic traction on older Hornby steel track. They serve little or no purpose on modern nickel track.
I personally use hornby set track. This could be me being stupid, but will that have an effect?
@@TheAntisocialTrain If the track is modern nickel track it won't be magnetic therefore the traction magnets do nothing. Put a magnet to your track and if it sticks then the traction magnets will improve traction a little. If it doesn't then they won't.
Ok thanks. Loving the videos. I've only just discovered your channel and it has taught me a LOT when it comes to servicing models
Did you run in the hymek in
Not really. I'd only consider "running in" a loco with brand new brushes or new gears. But yes sometimes it takes a loco a couple of laps round the track to behave properly after a service.
How do you clean your metal parts?
In fact, what metal cleaner do you use?
Have you converted on of these to dcc, if so any info.
No sorry. I don't do DCC.