I've been watching your videos since getting into knife making a couple years ago. At first I found your videos were simply the clearest and most straight forward. As my skills are advancing, I'm noticing the same videos are worth rewatching. You seem to have a wonderful ability to include the proper mix of beginner, intermediate, and advanced instructions. Thanks for sharing so generously Mr. Sorrells.
Thanks! I'll have to try this. I have an old (early to mid 1900's) home made knife that belonged to my Dad that has micarta scales, so you're right about it being around for awhile. I like your videos: clear, concise, and easy to understand.
ive done this several times after watching this video with all sorts of material including old polo shirts and T-shirts, brightly colored paper shopping bags (the kind your wife brings home $40 shampoo in), burlap bags, canvas tarps, etc. one piece of advice is dont squeeze too hard or you will squeeze all of the resin out and it wont bind. just get it snug and it will be fine. the hardest thing about the project is getting your material cut to the same shape. it literally takes me more time to get a shirt cut up so that it fits into my jig than the entire rest of the process. good luck!
I've made my own micarta ever since i made my first knife. Its just so easy to make. I just wrap the micarta with wax paper like you did and squeeze it between 2 2x4s on a log outside, being careful of putting the same pressure on each side. It looks good, provides good traction, not too heavy, waterproof, tough as nails etc... You just can't go wrong with that stuff. Its awesome :P
Hi THanks for your videos. Several epoxy companies offer a slow set resins. A laminating resin can give you several hours "Pot life" Also the mixing bucket holding the mixed resin will heat and set up quicker than if after the resin is mixed you pour the mixed resin out into a paint roller pan. This will lengthen the setup time in the pan by some amount. Also the room temperature has a big effect on the pot life. Cooler = longer pot life. Polyester resin can heat to the smoking point and actually catch fire if too much activator is mixed in. Avoid breathing the fumes and skin contact. A person can get very sensitive to the chemicals. My friend got so sensitive that he cannot handle epoxy even after it is set up/ cured. blisters all over. BAD!!
You mentioned yarn... That seems like it could be perfect for the bag-contained micarta to try the idea I saw in another video, and that is to make a micarta that mimics bone or horn.
mr sorrells your work is truly inspiring, its one thing to be a craftsman its incredible (and selfless) to be a craftsman and a teacher. Fledgeling knife maker here but it creates great joy to know that techniques i had to figure out myself through trial and error are being used by pro knife smiths (i enjoyed the learning process). I appreciate your approach to blade shaping, more of an organic process with obvious defined techniques vs auto cad style of design. In the end the blade ends up in someones palm so it makes sense that a feel and sight would dictate its appearance. Your bit on bolsters was hilarious and i never cared for the 50's era chevy bumper polish of any knife, ever. Cheers!
I really appreciate all of the insight and instructional videos. The videos have definitely fed my hunger for knife making info. I just used an ACU top from my old service days to make micarta for a new knife. Thanks again
That's awesome I especially liked the camo handle. Opens up all kinds of ideas if you have the patience to cut up different shapes to give a mosaic of images
Walter, if your flat surface materials are not spoken for by some other shop operation, you could always bore holes in the corners and use big bolts and wing nuts as your clamps. I know clamps are always at a premium in my shop. I also suppose it depends on how much micarta production you plan on. You could also use set spacers on the bolts the ensue a consistent pressure.
I enjoyed ur video sir. As a knife maker/scale creator myself it's always reassuring 2 see some1 as noted as yourself doing it similar 2 the way I do. Much respect from Georgia & GOD Bless!!!!
Hi, I subscribed yesterday and just wanted to say how much I'm enjoying watching your back issues. I really like your work and your clear no bullshit approach is refreshing. Much respect.
WOW! Love the camo design! Have designed a 'Bush Knife' set that i couldn't decide on a handle material for - this is perfect! Thanks. Love your videos, they are most insightful.
This seems like a great way to make some interesting pickguard material for guitars. Thanks for the idea! I don't know why I never thought of it. This is essentially the same method used to make Bakelite, which has been used to make pickguards for over 60 years.
Hi my Friend, I'm starting on making knifes. Many thanks for the incredible job you do for people in my situation... Sorry my bad english (I'm from Brazil..) Regards
find a container, baking tin - make your rig around the containers dimensions -- set your rig in the container - clamp from the bottom of the container -- pour off excess 'rosin'. done and done - you don't even need gloves as you submerge material. pour excess into smaller container with material and make 2 batches. no waste.
Tip: if you want to be sure of a uniform thickness to the casting... add some dimensional tool steel bars along the edges. Let's you clamp/press the crud out of it without worrying about unevenness 👍 (If you're using a bolt down press... just add washers to the desired thickness... Ialso use shims made from tin cans for high accuracy pieces)
I just have a couple suggestions for the production process instead of using wax paper you could use a Vaseline or some kind of liquid release which is also usually wax based and put the aluminum pieces facing each other also you can get clear resin that is vinyl Ester which will make it much stronger and look much better although it will cost more money
Hay Walter. Watched a lot of Micarta vids, never seen anyone do the, all mixed up in a bag one. I thought it looked awesome. Kinda looked like a Python skin pattern. Not to change the subject, can you or do you have a vid, showing how to install the handles with those tec screws . Can't find any good vids on using screws, instead of pins. On some knives, I prefer the finished screw look, over the pinned look. Thank You . Really enjoy & learn from your vids !
Originally and still used a electrical insulation. Because it does not conduct electricity. Many grades and variations have been produced. Paper and cloth substrates. Phenolic resin system. Look at Iten Industries in Ashtabula, Ohio for a modern producer. They have drops and will sell to knife makers but have minimums - used to be $200. Available in many thickness and a few colors.
@eckert31 I ended up using Johnson paste wax after sanding to. 400 grit and then hand buffing. I did several coats and it seems to keep the color and improve grip feel. Next batch I will sand to at least 600 before wax and buff.
Just cut mine up into scales and had a few test bits to play with. Sand it right down with some 1200 looks the same as the top, didnt look like it even needed anything further. Just got to hit it with even finer good quality sanding paper
hey walter love all ur videos.... i made some ladder patterned micarta from red and blue linen.... basically the same way you make ladder damascus...i made a press by gluing 1/2 inch dowel to two boards with the "rungs" of dowels alternating. then putting the resin soaked cloth in it and clamping it down... effectively making the dried micarta billet look like a ground, or in ur case milled, billet of ladder damascus... cant figure out how to attach a picture so if you are interested I could email it to you. Keep up the awesome vids...
I can't remember how much I paid for them. Their not cheap. But you could do with some combination of chipboard or MDF and plywood and it would work fine. You want flatness first and stiffness second. I just happened to have the right size of aluminum that I use for plate hardening.
Question, I've seen all sorts of materials used from traditional linen wool etc to scotch bright pads. Basically, if it will absorb the resin you can use it? I have in mind saw dust...
Love your work Walter. Just a quick question. I see on the finished knives for this video that you have used screws instead of pins to attach the scales. Do you cover this in any of your videos? If not are you going to cover it in a future video? Keep up the great work.
+Amr Dhahran I try to use different fasteners from video to video, just to give different approaches. Not sure if I've done screws or not. Now that I think about it, I kinda think I haven't. Keep an eye out and I'll try to do one with screws in the next month or two.
+Walter Sorrells I cant find a video about the knife you showed at the end of this video, sort of more unorthodox shape. Would love to see something like that!
I tried making micarta and it came out rubbery rather than being hard like I expected. Did I use the wrong kind of resin? I used Bondo Fiberglass resin with the 2 up in the right corner of the container. I mixed it as per the directions on the can (10 drops hardener per 1oz of resin). It was cold outside when I mixed it (around 30°F) and made the micarta but I then brought it inside in a place where the fumes weren't a problem and the temp was closer to 65. So why did it turn out rubbery?
Hey mate I was told by my local supplier that fiber glass resin doesn't completely harden so he said that I need epoxy resin I am not happy with the result what do you recommend thanks Bear from down under
Do you know what is a density of each material in this list? or where can I find this date? Micarta, G10, Carbon, Walnut wood, Zitel plastic, FRN plastic, Polypropylene.
I just made my first knife and used thin layers of Red Oak and Black Walnut for the handle. I did 2 layers of Black Walnut and one layer of Red Oak between them for each side. It looks pretty cool.
Wow great video! Thank you for sharing your experience with us! I had a question about the resin you used. Does it shrink when cured? Does it cloud up or yellow with age? After looking into making micarta, I'm a little gun shy because of the higher cost of the expensive epoxy resin that's supposed to be better. And I am curious if it makes that much of a difference. But since you used this fiberglass resin, I'd love to hear your experience with it. Thanks!!
Walter Sorrells I've had a really hard time with the smell that lingers for several days after sanding down fiberglass resin. Epoxy seems superior in every way except price, in my opinion.
Looks great. Can anyone recommend a way to get a textured but sealed finish effect to the micarta? I don't want to have it appear glossy, more of a matte. Thanks!
Just wondering how well these handles hold up. Some pages I've viewed say that the bondo resin doesn't work very well. Just wanna hear from some people who have gone this way.
Walter, is there any other resin that can be used to give a clear finish? I have an idea for some micarta, but it would require a clear resin. Thanks!!
+Glenn Seaton For this type of thing, it is not structural, so the stuff at home depot WILL work JUST FINE. I've done carbon fiber projects with it, came out great. That said, I have moved up to bigger and better things, and "west systems" slow cure epoxy is the best BAR NONE. Its also non yellowing water white epoxy, perfect for this application.
+Glenn Seaton Any of the boat building epoxies will work. I use System 3 to build kayaks, and the finish is like glass and essentially colorless and transparent. You can use the slow hardener to give you more working time too. Epoxies are easier to work with (for me) because they don't stink. You do have to ensure accurate mixing though, because they won't cure if the ratios of resin to hardener aren't correct. Wear gloves when handling, or you might develop an allergy. Epoxy allergy can be pretty nasty. There are lower viscosity epoxies that are made especially for wetting out fabrics. They're called laminating epoxies. System 3 makes a laminating epoxy called Silver Tip. They're a little more expensive than regular epoxy. West and Raka also make boat building epoxies.
love your videos but folks may find it useful to know the stuff here is polyester and isn't good for knife handles. Micarta as completely different ingredients. Micarta (brand name for group of phenolic resin laminate) is made with prepreg cloth cured under pressure and heat. The styrene carrier leaves microscopic holes as it cures for one which makes it prone to water absorption which weakens it and can cause delamination with time. This is ortho polyester which is the worst type, iso and iso-dpg types I do use for some stuff but not laminate knife handles. Ortho polyester is very weak, it doesn't form as many linkages the way vinylesters do (similar to polyesters and similar price) which is why we don't use it in structural or water sensitive applications. That stuff doesn't glue up as nice over time either and in a hard use knife can be an issue. Good ployamine and amine epoxy costs a bit more but not big thing in small batches, worth doing properly and lasting imho. Epoxy home made laminates are MUCH stronger, higher temp, chem and water resistance and glues well with regular epoxy and g-flex. Keep up the videos though your content is great, just thought this may help.
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
I've been watching your videos since getting into knife making a couple years ago. At first I found your videos were simply the clearest and most straight forward. As my skills are advancing, I'm noticing the same videos are worth rewatching. You seem to have a wonderful ability to include the proper mix of beginner, intermediate, and advanced instructions. Thanks for sharing so generously Mr. Sorrells.
That camo micarta is a superb idea. Very cool
I do it the same way with one exception. I lay four nuts on each corner. They set my thickness, it eliminates any need for measuring.
that's really smart. good tip!
Thanks
If you use coins the thickness will be more consistent. Nuts are not all the same thickness, even if they appear to be the same size.
could always measure the nuts though, not that difficult...
@@SnorrioK My nuts arent the same size. : (
Hey Walter. I just wanted to thank you for all the information on your channel and also that camo micarta looks awesome
Thanks! I'll have to try this. I have an old (early to mid 1900's) home made knife that belonged to my Dad that has micarta scales, so you're right about it being around for awhile. I like your videos: clear, concise, and easy to understand.
ive done this several times after watching this video with all sorts of material including old polo shirts and T-shirts, brightly colored paper shopping bags (the kind your wife brings home $40 shampoo in), burlap bags, canvas tarps, etc. one piece of advice is dont squeeze too hard or you will squeeze all of the resin out and it wont bind. just get it snug and it will be fine. the hardest thing about the project is getting your material cut to the same shape. it literally takes me more time to get a shirt cut up so that it fits into my jig than the entire rest of the process. good luck!
This was by far the best micarta making video I've watched. I really liked the chopped camo look. You made it look so easy to do. thanks for the tips!
I've made my own micarta ever since i made my first knife. Its just so easy to make. I just wrap the micarta with wax paper like you did and squeeze it between 2 2x4s on a log outside, being careful of putting the same pressure on each side. It looks good, provides good traction, not too heavy, waterproof, tough as nails etc... You just can't go wrong with that stuff. Its awesome :P
Hi
THanks for your videos.
Several epoxy companies offer a slow set resins.
A laminating resin can give you several hours "Pot life"
Also the mixing bucket holding the mixed resin will heat and set up quicker than if after the resin is mixed you pour the mixed resin out into a paint roller pan.
This will lengthen the setup time in the pan by some amount.
Also the room temperature has a big effect on the pot life. Cooler = longer pot life.
Polyester resin can heat to the smoking point and actually catch fire if too much activator is mixed in.
Avoid breathing the fumes and skin contact. A person can get very sensitive to the chemicals.
My friend got so sensitive that he cannot handle epoxy even after it is set up/ cured. blisters all over. BAD!!
Mr Sorrells, thank you for all your videos. I really appreciate all the work you are doing. Thumbs up sir!
The camouflage one looks great, the best Iv seen.
I have been watching your videos for a while now and you are and excellent and honest teacher!! Thank you very much for all your videos and effort!
You mentioned yarn... That seems like it could be perfect for the bag-contained micarta to try the idea I saw in another video, and that is to make a micarta that mimics bone or horn.
mr sorrells your work is truly inspiring, its one thing to be a craftsman its incredible (and selfless) to be a craftsman and a teacher. Fledgeling knife maker here but it creates great joy to know that techniques i had to figure out myself through trial and error are being used by pro knife smiths (i enjoyed the learning process). I appreciate your approach to blade shaping, more of an organic process with obvious defined techniques vs auto cad style of design. In the end the blade ends up in someones palm so it makes sense that a feel and sight would dictate its appearance. Your bit on bolsters was hilarious and i never cared for the 50's era chevy bumper polish of any knife, ever.
Cheers!
I really appreciate all of the insight and instructional videos. The videos have definitely fed my hunger for knife making info. I just used an ACU top from my old service days to make micarta for a new knife. Thanks again
Now that camo color is great. Thanks for the idea.
That's awesome I especially liked the camo handle. Opens up all kinds of ideas if you have the patience to cut up different shapes to give a mosaic of images
the camo micarta was freaking great looking
Walter, if your flat surface materials are not spoken for by some other shop operation, you could always bore holes in the corners and use big bolts and wing nuts as your clamps. I know clamps are always at a premium in my shop. I also suppose it depends on how much micarta production you plan on. You could also use set spacers on the bolts the ensue a consistent pressure.
I enjoyed ur video sir. As a knife maker/scale creator myself it's always reassuring 2 see some1 as noted as yourself doing it similar 2 the way I do. Much respect from Georgia & GOD Bless!!!!
Hi, I subscribed yesterday and just wanted to say how much I'm enjoying watching your back issues. I really like your work and your clear no bullshit approach is refreshing. Much respect.
Proper posture prevents back issues
WOW! Love the camo design! Have designed a 'Bush Knife' set that i couldn't decide on a handle material for - this is perfect! Thanks. Love your videos, they are most insightful.
Made some today. Thanks for the inspiration. Thanks for sharing your skill.
This seems like a great way to make some interesting pickguard material for guitars. Thanks for the idea! I don't know why I never thought of it. This is essentially the same method used to make Bakelite, which has been used to make pickguards for over 60 years.
I feel like a makeshift rolling pin would be helpful for getting bubbles out. Thanks for making the process dead simple!
i'm gobsmacked. what a great series of video. very generous and very helpful. thank you.
Very inspirational as I'm taking my first shot at this. No stranger to resins I'm really looking forward to the camo process
I have enjoyed all of the vids . I have been playing with saw blades. And files for about year.
Have learned a lot. Thanks
I like this guy I could learn from a guy like that
I love that camo!! Awesome!
ty sir i appreciate all the knowledge i have always been a knife lover and am thinking about making my first you have been very helpfull
Hi my Friend,
I'm starting on making knifes.
Many thanks for the incredible job you do for people in my situation...
Sorry my bad english (I'm from Brazil..)
Regards
Your English is fine, it's probably better than most native speakers 😂
Gday Walter thanks for all your great tips and easy to watch videos ....am new to knife making and find your videos a fantastic help thanks again
Btw, I love T6 6061. Great to work with. Polishes up to a very deep, extremely bright, white finish.
i must say at first i was thinking that it gonne look like crap i was so wrong it looks awsome mate
keep it up
I absolutely love the "camo" version!
Thanks for these great videos on how to do it!
find a container, baking tin - make your rig around the containers dimensions -- set your rig in the container - clamp from the bottom of the container -- pour off excess 'rosin'. done and done - you don't even need gloves as you submerge material. pour excess into smaller container with material and make 2 batches. no waste.
Great video, Walter! I really like the camo micarta you made, as it seems to look more unique!
Kudos!
WOW, love the chopped up rag version! Really enjoying these series your putting together. Keep them coming. :)
Excellent tutorial sir!
Great video. Just subscribed. Awesome discription, well spoken,very very good job. Thankyou sir
Very cool! I will be giving this a try for sure. Thanks.
Awesome informational educational experience
now ;I under stand semms like wood ... Iheard that california peatl wood .
you are an artist
awesome video! great instructions! thank you good sir
This is awesome thank you very much for making this video.
Like that camo mix Walter!
Thank you for sharing this Excellent content Sir
Tip: if you want to be sure of a uniform thickness to the casting... add some dimensional tool steel bars along the edges. Let's you clamp/press the crud out of it without worrying about unevenness 👍
(If you're using a bolt down press... just add washers to the desired thickness... Ialso use shims made from tin cans for high accuracy pieces)
Thanks for the info Walter.
I just have a couple suggestions for the production process instead of using wax paper you could use a Vaseline or some kind of liquid release which is also usually wax based and put the aluminum pieces facing each other also you can get clear resin that is vinyl Ester which will make it much stronger and look much better although it will cost more money
Keep up the good work and thanks for the information!
Great video and very informative. Thanks for your time in making them. Highboy
Cool idea! Love the random pieces. Definitely going to try that:)
I think you did a good job of showing us viewers how to build our own Knife handles. what would that Bat wing knife cost if I wanted to buy one?
Gotta say. Those all came out really nice. You made it look so easy! How much would you say those chunks of aluminum cost you?
Have you thought about drilling and tapping a cap screw in each corner of your clamping jig? That way when clamped, the thickness will be equal?
i use marine grade as its clear, then old bdu's great vid!!! even though it's old lol.
Hay Walter. Watched a lot of Micarta vids, never seen anyone do the, all mixed up in a bag one. I thought it looked awesome. Kinda looked like a Python skin pattern. Not to change the subject, can you or do you have a vid, showing how to install the handles with those tec screws . Can't find any good vids on using screws, instead of pins. On some knives, I prefer the finished screw look, over the pinned look. Thank You . Really enjoy & learn from your vids !
Originally and still used a electrical insulation. Because it does not conduct electricity. Many grades and variations have been produced. Paper and cloth substrates. Phenolic resin system. Look at Iten Industries in Ashtabula,
Ohio for a modern producer. They have drops and will sell to knife makers but have minimums - used to be $200. Available in many thickness and a few colors.
@eckert31
I ended up using Johnson paste wax after sanding to. 400 grit and then hand buffing. I did several coats and it seems to keep the color and improve grip feel.
Next batch I will sand to at least 600 before wax and buff.
Just cut mine up into scales and had a few test bits to play with. Sand it right down with some 1200 looks the same as the top, didnt look like it even needed anything further. Just got to hit it with even finer good quality sanding paper
This is so cool.
really like this may have to give it a try thanks for another great video :-)
can u please do a video on polishing your blades
nice vide, i try to make one and it was nice como efekt.......thanks
Very Nice Sir!!
Awesome effect.
hey walter love all ur videos.... i made some ladder patterned micarta from red and blue linen.... basically the same way you make ladder damascus...i made a press by gluing 1/2 inch dowel to two boards with the "rungs" of dowels alternating. then putting the resin soaked cloth in it and clamping it down... effectively making the dried micarta billet look like a ground, or in ur case milled, billet of ladder damascus... cant figure out how to attach a picture so if you are interested I could email it to you. Keep up the awesome vids...
I can't remember how much I paid for them. Their not cheap. But you could do with some combination of chipboard or MDF and plywood and it would work fine. You want flatness first and stiffness second. I just happened to have the right size of aluminum that I use for plate hardening.
good one , thanks Walter
Question, I've seen all sorts of materials used from traditional linen wool etc to scotch bright pads. Basically, if it will absorb the resin you can use it? I have in mind saw dust...
Nice thanks for the idea
Attempted your camo pattern but used a shredder. Brown, tan and black came out looking like granite.
can you please make a tutorial on textured knife handles
Love your work Walter. Just a quick question. I see on the finished knives for this video that you have used screws instead of pins to attach the scales. Do you cover this in any of your videos? If not are you going to cover it in a future video? Keep up the great work.
+Amr Dhahran I try to use different fasteners from video to video, just to give different approaches. Not sure if I've done screws or not. Now that I think about it, I kinda think I haven't. Keep an eye out and I'll try to do one with screws in the next month or two.
+Walter Sorrells I cant find a video about the knife you showed at the end of this video, sort of more unorthodox shape. Would love to see something like that!
On top of the aluminium plate why not use a large container which you could fill with water to provide additional weight?
I love it and I'm going to give it ago!
what a grate video thanks :8)
dude you are awesome
I tried making micarta and it came out rubbery rather than being hard like I expected. Did I use the wrong kind of resin? I used Bondo Fiberglass resin with the 2 up in the right corner of the container. I mixed it as per the directions on the can (10 drops hardener per 1oz of resin). It was cold outside when I mixed it (around 30°F) and made the micarta but I then brought it inside in a place where the fumes weren't a problem and the temp was closer to 65. So why did it turn out rubbery?
Hey mate I was told by my local supplier that fiber glass resin doesn't completely harden so he said that I need epoxy resin I am not happy with the result what do you recommend thanks Bear from down under
Do you know what is a density of each material in this list? or where can I find this date?
Micarta, G10, Carbon, Walnut wood, Zitel plastic, FRN plastic, Polypropylene.
watching this has given me an idea I'm sure it's not original but how about home made plywood. I've always got scraps of spalted and exotic hard wood.
I just made my first knife and used thin layers of Red Oak and Black Walnut for the handle. I did 2 layers of Black Walnut and one layer of Red Oak between them for each side. It looks pretty cool.
VERY VERY COOL!!!!!
Can you use other epoxy so and get the same or better thing or does it have to be glass
I wonder, would a rolling pin be better to press out the air bubbles?
most excellent
Wow great video! Thank you for sharing your experience with us! I had a question about the resin you used. Does it shrink when cured? Does it cloud up or yellow with age? After looking into making micarta, I'm a little gun shy because of the higher cost of the expensive epoxy resin that's supposed to be better. And I am curious if it makes that much of a difference. But since you used this fiberglass resin, I'd love to hear your experience with it. Thanks!!
The fiberglass resin is a little harder and more glassy than normal adhesive type epoxies.
Walter Sorrells I've had a really hard time with the smell that lingers for several days after sanding down fiberglass resin. Epoxy seems superior in every way except price, in my opinion.
Very cool!
Looks great. Can anyone recommend a way to get a textured but sealed finish effect to the micarta? I don't want to have it appear glossy, more of a matte. Thanks!
Beyond Blades sand it down and use small round and black diamond files for texture.
i was just wondering how to do a camo version. thanks
with rawzen?
Just wondering how well these handles hold up. Some pages I've viewed say that the bondo resin doesn't work very well. Just wanna hear from some people who have gone this way.
Очень круто!!! Спасибо, что поделился!
how much resin you used for the last micarta (the one with the small peaces of cloth)?
How long is the drying process?
Walter, is there any other resin that can be used to give a clear finish? I have an idea for some micarta, but it would require a clear resin. Thanks!!
+Glenn Seaton clear resin is definitely a thing. might be special order rather then pick up at home depot though.
+Arklan Uth Oslin Thanks for your help! Do you have any recommendations for clear resin and hardener?
i used an epoxy based system in a composites class, but it was a few years ago. i don't recall the name. sorry.
+Glenn Seaton
For this type of thing, it is not structural, so the stuff at home depot WILL work JUST FINE. I've done carbon fiber projects with it, came out great.
That said, I have moved up to bigger and better things, and "west systems" slow cure epoxy is the best BAR NONE. Its also non yellowing water white epoxy, perfect for this application.
+Glenn Seaton Any of the boat building epoxies will work. I use System 3 to build kayaks, and the finish is like glass and essentially colorless and transparent. You can use the slow hardener to give you more working time too. Epoxies are easier to work with (for me) because they don't stink. You do have to ensure accurate mixing though, because they won't cure if the ratios of resin to hardener aren't correct. Wear gloves when handling, or you might develop an allergy. Epoxy allergy can be pretty nasty.
There are lower viscosity epoxies that are made especially for wetting out fabrics. They're called laminating epoxies. System 3 makes a laminating epoxy called Silver Tip. They're a little more expensive than regular epoxy. West and Raka also make boat building epoxies.
love your videos but folks may find it useful to know the stuff here is polyester and isn't good for knife handles. Micarta as completely different ingredients. Micarta (brand name for group of phenolic resin laminate) is made with prepreg cloth cured under pressure and heat. The styrene carrier leaves microscopic holes as it cures for one which makes it prone to water absorption which weakens it and can cause delamination with time. This is ortho polyester which is the worst type, iso and iso-dpg types I do use for some stuff but not laminate knife handles.
Ortho polyester is very weak, it doesn't form as many linkages the way vinylesters do (similar to polyesters and similar price) which is why we don't use it in structural or water sensitive applications. That stuff doesn't glue up as nice over time either and in a hard use knife can be an issue. Good ployamine and amine epoxy costs a bit more but not big thing in small batches, worth doing properly and lasting imho. Epoxy home made laminates are MUCH stronger, higher temp, chem and water resistance and glues well with regular epoxy and g-flex. Keep up the videos though your content is great, just thought this may help.
+Doc Gonzo typo poly*amine. If you must use polyester use something like crystic 397 not the general car body repair stuff
What do you put on it to finish the handles