I did this beer with a slightly different grist and different hops but used the amyloglucosidase in the mash. I think the ferment works too, but anyway, got it down to 0.996. I bottled this one and It was a bit bitter still after about 2 weeks, but at 4 weeks it had really developed and was absolutely delicious.
I'd love to buy some goods. You guys have the most complete best valued BIAB system in my mind. I just have limited resources being disabled. My wife would probably make me sleep in the living room if I spent her money right before Christmas. I did however tell her what I wanted for Christmas, A CLAWHAMMER SYSTEM. Cheers Gents. Thanks for doing what you do.
Use Alpha Amyloglucosidase/ Alpha Amylase instead of galactocidase. Alpha amylase will cleave startch into more easily fermented sugars such as dextrose where galactocidase cleaves startch into less fermentable sugars, mainly maltose, maltotriose and maltodextrins.
Mistake in last comment. Alpha galactocidase actually cleaves galactose residues from glycolipids/ glycoprotein and not maltose, maltotriose and maltodextrins ( that would be beta amylase). Sorry for my stupidity (alpha amylase use still correct).
i love the way they r like " so why are we adding this and doing it this way?" "umm, i dunno, if anyone else knows why you might do this, pls comment... lets just make it and see" :) home brewing is an Art.
Love your videos guys, I look forward to more. I'm brewing 1-gallon batches in an apartment right now, but when I buy a house next year, I look forward to buying your brew system.
Once i used alpha amylase after the fermentation to help my imp stout attenuate a little more, it dropped from 1.044 to 1.020ish... but in mashing, Alpha amylase isnt too active at low temps and isnt doing so much work with low molecule carbs, you must mean beta amylase, that is better working on lower mash temps and chopping down non-chain carb molecules into maltose, nice vid and experiment guys cheers!
For Part 2, it'd be interesting to do a comparison taste test between this 'brut-ish' IPA and the brut IPA with a different enzyme. I'm curious if the same 3oz of whirlpool Huell Melon will contribute to higher IBU / more perceived bitterness with much lower FG.
So I'm not sure if this has been said but I have seen Beano been used. What you do is let it ferment down to 1.010 like normal and then add the Beano and it'll drop even further after a couple days. Cheers
From what I have read, you dont want to use wine yeast because it has been generically modified to eat simple sugars and may actually have a problem with the complex sugar chains in grains. This can produce off flavors or low attenuation.
Do you know what kind of off flavors in particular? I've been trying my hand at wine making and keep getting this bready yeasty sorta flavor that's like stale beer or something.
@@copsarebastards I have only tried to make wine a few times so im not an expert on it but I would try and keep the temperature on the low in so you dont pick up alot of yeast flavor. This is what I do for my cider making as well and it seems to turn out alright.
Hey guys! I love all the videos! It gives great insights into the process with your system. I just brewed my first batch with the 120 system yesterday. Absolutely love the system. Very easy to use! Something that I tried was to recirculate over the grain basket when the 60 min mash was complete. I raised the temp to 168 and turned the pump down. I let it go for 10 to 15 min. It seemed to help with extracting more sugars from the grain. Wondering if you have ever done this, and if not, would you try it on a video and see your results? Cheers!
We do a mashout at 170 from time and generally recirculate when we do. But we brew so much and already have so much beer, we often skip this step to save a bit of time.
I think you don't use wine yeast in general because it can't ferment malt sugars? But then again, you've got way more simple sugars in the brut IPA wort anyway, so... good question. Maybe champagne yeast would do the same thing as a neutral ale yeast. It'd be a cool split batch experiment for sure!
Using a diastatic yeast (inc. sacch cerevisiae) will naturally contribute glucoamylase/amyloglucosidaise which does the same thing that you guys are looking for in a brut ipa.
Champagne yeast tends to strips a whole lot of flavor out of what it ferments, you could use a wine yeast that goes high and retains flavor. Lalvin K1V-1116 would do the job, EC-1118 would strip it of most anything you had flavor wise.
I´ve tried something like that, using Attenuzyme Pro (which is AMG) - three days into fermentation and Fermentis US-05. Grain bill was similar to yours and ended hitting 1.000FG.
why dont you guys try and use the metric system for all of us across the pond? try a celsius, kg,ml conversion.its not that hard. if we can do it, you can do it....
I'm trying to hold off on the 3-kettle system from 'someone else', but I haven't heard any rumors about a system from you guys in the .5BBL size.(and yes, I have access to a winch to lift the grain basket)
I like the setup. I was looking at a two vessel system, but now I’m thinking about the 220v setup you guys sell. Seems like everything you need for a 5 gal batch. Any mash volume constraints with grain heavy beers?
I just brewed an impy stout with 18 lbs of grain. Could have fit a little more in with a thicker mash volume and water adjustment but I wanted to keep to the original calculation. Came out around 7% and had just over 5.5 gallons of wort
Any issues with wort efficiency? Some reviews said that they were struggling to get 50% grain to sugar efficiency and had to compensate by double milling grains? Pending that - this seems like the perfect single vessel system.
Is it because the PH was off that it did not ferment enough? Is there a specific yeast for brut style IPA? I'm wondering if Safale 5 would have a better chance of almost going dry.
Maltotriose and maltodextrins (malt sugars) are the major contributors to the malt feeling in beers. Most species of ale yeasts are only capable of fermenting these sugars to a degree (why ale brewed beers are malty). Wine yeasts on the other hand have a greater ability to ferment less conventional sugars; this also includes malt sugars. On a side note, lager yeasts are also capable of fermenting malt sugars; though not to the same degree as wine yeasts ( thus why beers brewed with lager yeasts are drier than ale brewed beers while still retaining some maltiness).
As regards to wine yeast in beer. In my previous answer I explained that it is mainly due to the fact that a wine yeast would eliminate almost if not all malt character from a beer, which would defeat the purpose of brewing one in the first place (would just be a non- fruit wine). I suppose it simply comes down more to this new fangled fad we call the Brut IPA. From my knowledge I understand that a Brut IPA is where you add enzymes to leave the beer drier in order to simply elevate the hop character. As to why you wouldn't just use a wine or distillers yeasts to do this is even a mystery to me. I would however pursume that it has something to do with the final flavour profile of the beer; though again I am uncertain of this myself.
So I don't l know the answer but I can tell you that if you do it correctly it will be clear as day .Dry hop is important for certain. Try adding the amylase enzyme into the fermentation when it starts to slow down. The ultra ferm add when you pitch the yeast. Also think filtration i like your addition of the flaked rice and corn a big suggestion guys rice hulls.
why would you add the enzyme into the fermentation? its used to convert the starch to sugar efficiently. cold crashing and/or gelatin will clarify it but not sure why an enzyme additive would.
The enzyme will actually cause fermentation to continue by breaking down further what is in your fermentation vessel that was not broken down into fully fermentables. You want this beer to have a gravity close to water.
@@tomwhelan8586 hmmm. interesting. got a new tool in the tool box. thanks. im making a brut this weekend. im gonna throw in a pk of WLP644 as well to give it a slight brett/white wine funkiness
remember the rice hulls too. Just don't overshoot your mash out temp you don't want the tannin's.. depending on batch size use more than you think you need you want good filtration in the grain bed.
@@tomwhelan8586 no doubt. ive gotten in the habit of using rice hulls most of the time just in case and for bruts, i like to stay under 150 mash temps.
Hey guys, love your video's and channel so far! Very interesting recipe, as always. Quick question though: You never seem to use any sparge water, why is that?
I made a Brut IPA by using Safale-05 and after 10 days I added their wine yeast ... uh ... -118 I think. Worked great and violated all single yeasts laws.
It's been used in mashing for distilling spirits. However the enzymes are only active in certain temperature range & Ph. So adding the "beano" in a cool fermenting bucket may not work. I believe it has to be in the upper 90's for it to work, hence it works inside the human gut. Too high or too low a Ph will also cause it not to work, work slower, or not at all. I don't have the specs on that type ^^^ of enzyme. I am sure that liquid SEBAmyl-GL or Gluco amylaze will work. As long as the Ph remains low during fermentation. It has a temp range of 149f to 50f. Pintoshine has a video of it somewhere here... Final issue is yeast. The yeast may or may not like the types of sugars beano and/or Gluco amylaze create. So you have to experiment.
For all the years that I distilled whiskey and sanitizing my material with starsan, I had no idea that you didn't have to wash it off to add your liquor. Do you know how much time that would have saved me if I knew that? 🤣🤣🤣👍
Hey guys! So, it's nearly impossible to get a "real" gravity of 1.000. That is because you also have proteins, polyphenols etc that are dissolved but even if they break down - are unfermented products. You also lose part of the flavor when having super attenuating yeast (with high diastatic power as well) cause a vast majority of the flavor compounds (hop compounds in particular) are in a sugar-binding form. Cleaving these bonds may release aroma substances but lose in flavor perception in the long term. The liberated sugars may be further attenuated by the yeast cells.
![[ ออกกอง ] วัยหนุ่ม 2544 โลกหลังลูกกรง..ทัวร์กองถ่ายหนังใน "คุกของจริง" | JUSTดูIT.](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vB--aOkZCpw/mqdefault.jpg)
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Thanks for incorporating tasting into all of your brews now!! It hasn't gone unnoticed or unappreciated
I dont brew at all, in fact not sure how I got here. But i love the channel. Some of the most relaxing videos ever.
You should brew.
I did this beer with a slightly different grist and different hops but used the amyloglucosidase in the mash. I think the ferment works too, but anyway, got it down to 0.996. I bottled this one and It was a bit bitter still after about 2 weeks, but at 4 weeks it had really developed and was absolutely delicious.
I'd love to buy some goods. You guys have the most complete best valued BIAB system in my mind. I just have limited resources being disabled. My wife would probably make me sleep in the living room if I spent her money right before Christmas. I did however tell her what I wanted for Christmas, A CLAWHAMMER SYSTEM. Cheers Gents. Thanks for doing what you do.
Use Alpha Amyloglucosidase/ Alpha Amylase instead of galactocidase. Alpha amylase will cleave startch into more easily fermented sugars such as dextrose where galactocidase cleaves startch into less fermentable sugars, mainly maltose, maltotriose and maltodextrins.
Mistake in last comment. Alpha galactocidase actually cleaves galactose residues from glycolipids/ glycoprotein and not maltose, maltotriose and maltodextrins ( that would be beta amylase). Sorry for my stupidity (alpha amylase use still correct).
Fifth season gardening will order any yeast you want!!! Must go there if you havent!
i love the way they r like
" so why are we adding this and doing it this way?"
"umm, i dunno, if anyone else knows why you might do this, pls comment... lets just make it and see"
:) home brewing is an Art.
Love your videos guys, I look forward to more. I'm brewing 1-gallon batches in an apartment right now, but when I buy a house next year, I look forward to buying your brew system.
That guy reminds me of Dennis from It's Always Sunny in Philadelphia LMAO
Once i used alpha amylase after the fermentation to help my imp stout attenuate a little more, it dropped from 1.044 to 1.020ish... but in mashing, Alpha amylase isnt too active at low temps and isnt doing so much work with low molecule carbs, you must mean beta amylase, that is better working on lower mash temps and chopping down non-chain carb molecules into maltose, nice vid and experiment guys cheers!
Can y'all make a video showing how your kegorator system is set up? Specifically w/ the taps in the wall. I like !
I’m likin your tell-it-like-it-went style faux pas n all. 👍🏾
Fun to watch the process, definitely a cool electric brew system.
looking forward to the day when i can get a kit! great video as always, cheers
Not a bad way to make a tasty brew!
I'm stealing that trick on opening the white labs yeast!
For Part 2, it'd be interesting to do a comparison taste test between this 'brut-ish' IPA and the brut IPA with a different enzyme. I'm curious if the same 3oz of whirlpool Huell Melon will contribute to higher IBU / more perceived bitterness with much lower FG.
awesome new video structure!!!!
Awesome thanks for trying my suggestion
So I'm not sure if this has been said but I have seen Beano been used. What you do is let it ferment down to 1.010 like normal and then add the Beano and it'll drop even further after a couple days. Cheers
From what I have read, you dont want to use wine yeast because it has been generically modified to eat simple sugars and may actually have a problem with the complex sugar chains in grains. This can produce off flavors or low attenuation.
Do you know what kind of off flavors in particular? I've been trying my hand at wine making and keep getting this bready yeasty sorta flavor that's like stale beer or something.
@@copsarebastards I have only tried to make wine a few times so im not an expert on it but I would try and keep the temperature on the low in so you dont pick up alot of yeast flavor. This is what I do for my cider making as well and it seems to turn out alright.
Hey guys! I love all the videos! It gives great insights into the process with your system. I just brewed my first batch with the 120 system yesterday. Absolutely love the system. Very easy to use! Something that I tried was to recirculate over the grain basket when the 60 min mash was complete. I raised the temp to 168 and turned the pump down. I let it go for 10 to 15 min. It seemed to help with extracting more sugars from the grain. Wondering if you have ever done this, and if not, would you try it on a video and see your results? Cheers!
We do a mashout at 170 from time and generally recirculate when we do. But we brew so much and already have so much beer, we often skip this step to save a bit of time.
I would have done 145 and 160 rests to get even more fermentable wort, but, nice job!
So long as we're doing tips in the comments - for aerating the wort I use a stick mixer with the wisk attachment. Frothes up something crazy
I think you don't use wine yeast in general because it can't ferment malt sugars? But then again, you've got way more simple sugars in the brut IPA wort anyway, so... good question. Maybe champagne yeast would do the same thing as a neutral ale yeast. It'd be a cool split batch experiment for sure!
You guys should try using a diastatic yeast to get down close to 1.000 Omega OYL-200 or WLP644 and ferment up in the mid 70's
Using a diastatic yeast (inc. sacch cerevisiae) will naturally contribute glucoamylase/amyloglucosidaise which does the same thing that you guys are looking for in a brut ipa.
Champagne yeast tends to strips a whole lot of flavor out of what it ferments, you could use a wine yeast that goes high and retains flavor. Lalvin K1V-1116 would do the job, EC-1118 would strip it of most anything you had flavor wise.
I´ve tried something like that, using Attenuzyme Pro (which is AMG) - three days into fermentation and Fermentis US-05. Grain bill was similar to yours and ended hitting 1.000FG.
why dont you guys try and use the metric system for all of us across the pond? try a celsius, kg,ml conversion.its not that hard. if we can do it, you can do it....
know both.
@@DonTrell Why learn an outdated system :P
If it's not that hard then do it yourself..
@@joshuafreeman6720 I tend to agree, we are in America, this is the system we have used our whole lives.
I wouldn't do anything for someone who leaves snide comments like this one.
Luv the cideos as always kyle
I'm trying to hold off on the 3-kettle system from 'someone else', but I haven't heard any rumors about a system from you guys in the .5BBL size.(and yes, I have access to a winch to lift the grain basket)
Nice video and 240V system. Cheers!
I'm a bit jelly of all your switches and gizmos :p
I like the setup. I was looking at a two vessel system, but now I’m thinking about the 220v setup you guys sell. Seems like everything you need for a 5 gal batch. Any mash volume constraints with grain heavy beers?
I just brewed an impy stout with 18 lbs of grain. Could have fit a little more in with a thicker mash volume and water adjustment but I wanted to keep to the original calculation. Came out around 7% and had just over 5.5 gallons of wort
Any issues with wort efficiency? Some reviews said that they were struggling to get 50% grain to sugar efficiency and had to compensate by double milling grains? Pending that - this seems like the perfect single vessel system.
My efficiency was just under 70% with that batch of beer and I definitely could have done some things better so I would say it's not impossible
Is it because the PH was off that it did not ferment enough? Is there a specific yeast for brut style IPA? I'm wondering if Safale 5 would have a better chance of almost going dry.
Daniel Rowe 05 will work just as good as 001, you can buy a better enzyme than what they used which will help it dry out more.
Hi loving the video's. Where did you get the name from? 👌
What are you guys using to clean things before dry hopping? Seems soap or something like that
An answer in respect to your question to the use of wine yeast in beer.
Maltotriose and maltodextrins (malt sugars) are the major contributors to the malt feeling in beers. Most species of ale yeasts are only capable of fermenting these sugars to a degree (why ale brewed beers are malty). Wine yeasts on the other hand have a greater ability to ferment less conventional sugars; this also includes malt sugars. On a side note, lager yeasts are also capable of fermenting malt sugars; though not to the same degree as wine yeasts ( thus why beers brewed with lager yeasts are drier than ale brewed beers while still retaining some maltiness).
As regards to wine yeast in beer. In my previous answer I explained that it is mainly due to the fact that a wine yeast would eliminate almost if not all malt character from a beer, which would defeat the purpose of brewing one in the first place (would just be a non- fruit wine). I suppose it simply comes down more to this new fangled fad we call the Brut IPA. From my knowledge I understand that a Brut IPA is where you add enzymes to leave the beer drier in order to simply elevate the hop character. As to why you wouldn't just use a wine or distillers yeasts to do this is even a mystery to me. I would however pursume that it has something to do with the final flavour profile of the beer; though again I am uncertain of this myself.
THANK YOU. Ive been searching for this!
I love the color for sure !! you think those hops would make a decent blonde?
Sure would. Huell melon is great with Pale beers
So I don't l know the answer but I can tell you that if you do it correctly it will be clear as day .Dry hop is important for certain. Try adding the amylase enzyme into the fermentation when it starts to slow down. The ultra ferm add when you pitch the yeast. Also think filtration i like your addition of the flaked rice and corn a big suggestion guys rice hulls.
why would you add the enzyme into the fermentation? its used to convert the starch to sugar efficiently. cold crashing and/or gelatin will clarify it but not sure why an enzyme additive would.
The enzyme will actually cause fermentation to continue by breaking down further what is in your fermentation vessel that was not broken down into fully fermentables. You want this beer to have a gravity close to water.
@@tomwhelan8586 hmmm. interesting. got a new tool in the tool box. thanks. im making a brut this weekend. im gonna throw in a pk of WLP644 as well to give it a slight brett/white wine funkiness
remember the rice hulls too. Just don't overshoot your mash out temp you don't want the tannin's.. depending on batch size use more than you think you need you want good filtration in the grain bed.
@@tomwhelan8586 no doubt. ive gotten in the habit of using rice hulls most of the time just in case and for bruts, i like to stay under 150 mash temps.
Hey guys, love your video's and channel so far! Very interesting recipe, as always. Quick question though: You never seem to use any sparge water, why is that?
should have did half with ale yeast and half with wine yeast to see the difference, that would have been interesting to find out
I made a Brut IPA by using Safale-05 and after 10 days I added their wine yeast ... uh ... -118 I think. Worked great and violated all single yeasts laws.
Why do homebrewers use bean-o? I have been brewing for years and this is news to me lol. No sarcasm intended, genuinely curious.
I haven't used it either...in fact, this is my first time hearing about it.(my cave is deep and dark)
It's been used in mashing for distilling spirits. However the enzymes are only active in certain temperature range & Ph. So adding the "beano" in a cool fermenting bucket may not work. I believe it has to be in the upper 90's for it to work, hence it works inside the human gut. Too high or too low a Ph will also cause it not to work, work slower, or not at all. I don't have the specs on that type ^^^ of enzyme.
I am sure that liquid SEBAmyl-GL or Gluco amylaze will work. As long as the Ph remains low during fermentation. It has a temp range of 149f to 50f. Pintoshine has a video of it somewhere here...
Final issue is yeast. The yeast may or may not like the types of sugars beano and/or Gluco amylaze create. So you have to experiment.
8:28 - funny we literally just posted a video using a whiskey yeast that uses the enzymes! Coincidence!
Emmet Looks like the young Kris Kringle from the 1960s cartoon
next time use alpha amylase in the mash and still mash at 145. I used pilsner, flaked corn and white rice fermented with us-05 and got down to 1.002.
Nice turn out anyways!
I tried making this style and added the enzyme during a step mash. I got to 1.010 final with a dry finish
For all the years that I distilled whiskey and sanitizing my material with starsan, I had no idea that you didn't have to wash it off to add your liquor. Do you know how much time that would have saved me if I knew that? 🤣🤣🤣👍
Maybe Amylase? And a high attenuating yeast? You see the new Safale? Up to 90% attenuation.....
Emmet looks thinner, maybe it’s all the grain lifting he’s been doing.
GrainFit!
That eyebrow raise though. 😂
Less grain, more table sugar and aggressive yeast. Nottingham high performance has been great.
Can’t they just use a higher alcohol yeast like wine or champagne
convertase amylo 300 in the fermenter
Hey guys! So, it's nearly impossible to get a "real" gravity of 1.000. That is because you also have proteins, polyphenols etc that are dissolved but even if they break down - are unfermented products.
You also lose part of the flavor when having super attenuating yeast (with high diastatic power as well) cause a vast majority of the flavor compounds (hop compounds in particular) are in a sugar-binding form. Cleaving these bonds may release aroma substances but lose in flavor perception in the long term. The liberated sugars may be further attenuated by the yeast cells.
Why not just add some sugar and unmalted grains to get it dryer?
The crazy thing about brut is it is drier than extra dry so if you want a sweeter champagne be sure to buy extra dry, go figure 🤓
Emmet wearing the exact same clothes 2 weeks later.
LOL'd at Elon
A 'Brut-ish' IPA?
Wuddup Elon
I think what you mean at 145F is Beta amylase, not alpha.
Using WLP001 for a brut is where you went wrong right away. Not a champagne/brut yeast? Would make more sense, considering the name of the beer..
You Americans have pills for everything, don't you? A pill to help you eat beans? WTF?!