ExpoImaging ExpoDisc ▶︎ Getting Perfect White Balance the Easy Way
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ส.ค. 2018
- I've had an ExpoDisc on my shelves for many, many years. I never used it. Then I saw someone else using it and thought it may be time to give it another chance. Let's find out if it's worth it or not!
#expodisc #whitebalance
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•• ExpoImaging ExpoDisc 2.0 82mm White Balance Filter ••
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How would I use the expo,disk u dear tungsten fight lights in a mma cage that has always a red mat that seems to act as a reflector to the athletes throwing red into their skin tones ? Should I tried shooting inside the cage up at the lights but the red mat ruined skin tones. Should I go to my outside mma cage shooting position and just shoot across the cage so that the disk licks up sum of the mat? Thanks ?
I watched about 5 videos on using the Expodisc and yours was the first that I understood how to use completely. Thank you!
wow, glad to hear that!
Hello there! Just ran across your video and was quite surprised to see how many people in the comments used this wrong! 😊 I've used the ExpoDisk 2.0 for years and (maybe it's cause I read the information that came with it) thankfully I have been using it correctly the entire time! Glad this video is out there so people who maybe have had difficulty using it can see the proper use cases and how to get the best results! Thanks PhotoJoseph!
Super informative video, I use the Expodisc and learned a few things I didn't know. Thanks for posting this.
Great! Really does work well. Thank you!
Nice review. I too have one of these I bought 10 yrs ago or so and just revisited. I too used it wrong! Thanks for the video. Well done.
I like your style of presentation and the examples you show -- thank you so much!
Thank you!
Great, thorough and clear. Thanks so much!
Love the video!!! Keep up the great work!
Very good presentation. You covered it all!!
Very engaging speaker. One of the best I've seen. Thanks for the info.
13:37 Full sun hitting the what! 🤣🤣 Great video thank you.
Thank you for posting this video. I've used the disk wrongly in the past as well. I shoot video only and I use X-rite when I have the time and ExpoDisk in some run N gun situations.
Hi I am an run and gun to TH-camr. Will I buy this item. Plz suggest.
Great video, I recently learned how to you the Expo Disc.
really good - thanks - learned a lot
I've had one of the ExpoDisks for many years and use it nearly every time I shoot.
Wow! Thanks
thanks for showing me more than the 2 from the expodisc videos sem to have. yes mine has been on a shelf 2 years, however no one has answered Does it work for landscapes?
Hello Sue, he touches on Landscape at about the 13:25 mark. Yes, it will work for landscapes as long as you are standing in the same light that is hitting your subject. Worth experimenting to turn around 180 degrees to set the white balance from the light hitting the subject as he explained earlier part of the video. Then shoot the landscape.
You need the light hitting the subject to hit the expodisc when setting the white balance hence turn around so you are facing the way the camera is pointing to set the wb. Hope that helps.
i'm gonna get this for my cooking & music youtube channel ...thanks!
I love the ExpoDisc even though it makes the white balance significantly warmer than I'd like. You HAVE to do it correctly but yes, it does make things much warmer. I just cool it back down in post to where I like it. The reason I still use it is that even though I have to cool it down in post, my colors are still much better. I wouldn't use it for landscapes, though, but for portraiture it's great.
I noticed the same on my Nikon d610. Outside, the expodisc gives around 350-400 K warmer results when shooting around midday. You can find similar reviews by some Nikon users on Amazon.
So I automatically cool it down to B2M1 and some minor adjustments in PP.
Canon users did not report this problem.
My guess is that Expo results on Nikon are warmer as a compensation for oversaturated dark blue for which Nikon D6** 7** are known for.
@@akimbohr I’m a Canon user. Most, if not all, white balance tools tend to warm up white balance to varying degrees.
This is pretty amazing.
So if you're doing portraits in the shade, what's the light source? Should I just point at subject?
Assuming your subject is in the shade, you go to the subject's position, turn towards the camera location, and then set the WB as instructed. The camera then sees the light that will reflect off the subject (regardless of source) and back to the camera for the picture, and sets the white balance off of that.
I'VE HAD MINE for about seven years. Never shoot without it!
Thanks!
Thanks for the video, I have been using Lastolite and am interested in using this because I thought I just put the disk infront of the lens and that's my white balance sorted.. but it seems using expodisc at concerts, I have to go to the stage and shoot towards the audience where I will be? Not always possible for me...
Just noticed that the original AWB reading was almost EXACTLY the same as the expodisc with the right settting, and calibrated in post. Interesting..
I had read in the instructions sometime back that before taking an incident light reading from the light source, you should use the Expo disc and point it at the subject to get/select the best exposure and then go to the subject and use it the way you talk about. There is a subtle difference when one does that. But there is a difference. Is it something that can be corrected in post-processing especially when shooting in RAW? Yes, definitely, and sometimes one doesn't have the time to jump back from source to subject. Just something I had read on the Expo Disc site. A very good tutorial on the Expo Disc. An excellent tool for when your picture does not have 18% grey area or even white and is all in color.
The Expodisc is meant as an incident light meter, not a reflective one. The light on a landscape in the distance will not be the same amount of light falling on the environment immediately around you where you're standing, and it's not hitting the landscape at the same angles as it's hitting you and your immediate environs. It may seem that way but it's not. There's a reason you don't use an incident light meter (in incident mode anyhow) to meter distant landscapes. It's not possible to get an accurate incident reading of the exact amount of light falling on that landscape if you're not actually there, which is why it's better to base that reading off of reflective metering and adjust accordingly.
I own the disk..to me it is useful if your in a controlled atmosphere or studio...but when on location I prefer using my color checker passport and adjust in post. For landscape then using a gray card will get you close enough.
do you have to adjust exposure setting after taking one with the expodisk?
Great video. Thank you. How would you go about using this outdoors? Pointing it towards the sun would surely fry the sensor. Any suggestions?
You point it towards the camera or the light source, but even if you point it at the Sun it only transmits 18% of the light.
Pointing it towards the sun WITH the Expodisc in front of the lens completely will not hurt the camera or sensor. In fact, if you look at the histogram after taking a picture of the sun, you will see a "perfect" histogram. I was really worried about this, but I did it and have done it a few times and have not had any problems. BUT, please put the Expodisc over the lens BEFORE pointing it directly at the sun.
I own an Expodisc2 and use it occasionally, especially if I don't see some neutral gray (kinda) in the picture I'm taking. If I do then I adjust the white balance in Lightroom, or Elements of Photoshop, and it's good enough for me and my family. I have used the Expodisc and found it to be very good. My question is BEFORE is it necessary to use the Expodisc and get the exposure right down the middle before using it? Is there much of a difference if you just use the camera to get the right exposure before, or use the Expodisc to get the right exposure first?
I use it for shooting copies of artwork with outside light.
I have had one for years. When I used it I usually pointed at the light in the ceiling. Never thought of standing where the subject is and shouting towards where I would be taking the picture from.
I sure hope you meant “shooting” not “shouting” 😂😂 (hehe sorry couldnt’ resist). If you’re shooting in a room with the single overhead light, then it won’t matter if you’re standing where the subject or the camera is, at least not for white balance. Or at least any difference would be very, very minimal. But in general, the Expodisc turns your camera into an incident light meter, and incident light meters need to be where the subject is to be the most effective. You’re measuring the light that’s landing where your subject actually is.
Even in a room with one light fixture, you should probably still stand where your subject will be standing. Light hits people different ways depending on where they're standing and which way they're facing. It can change your wb a little (probably not significantly but a change is possible).
Thank you very much for the video. The outdoor examples (in and out of shade) were especially helpful. I just picked up an ExpoDisc and have started experimenting with it. So far, the best results come from shooting the camera/ExpoDisc at the sun. You can then either use that image to set the Custom White Balance in the camera (Canon), or use it as a reference to fix in post. Both seem to work similarly.
One odd thing I'm seeing is that when you use the WB dropper to select the gray ExpoDisc photo, the WB numbers sometimes change (but not always). Not sure whether to use the original or the adjusted number. (So far they've been very close to enough another, so the difference is negligible).
Remember when sampling you’re sampling a pixel or a few pixels. Those pixels will vary, and basically everything in the photo varies. Put a big grey card in a scene and it’ll be different from edge to edge. Ultimately all that matters is that it looks good!
@@photojoseph Ah, yes, of course. That makes perfect sense. If the answer had been a snake, it would have bitten me. :)
Thank you very much for the reply! That's one less mystery to keep me up at night. :)
15:35 yeah i use the jjc one and its pretty decent outside but inside buildings it just makes the light temp go too cold so it get a bit bluish.
outside in the sun is what the expodisc is good for, but inside buildings not so much
The reason I subscribed is his voice and he is very lively😍
Thank you!
@@photojoseph struggling on a wedding shoot that looks so red or orange so i'm looking for one of this thing to which i was ignoring for years even after seeing it on TH-cam. Thanks for the explanation
My pleasure. I hope it solves your red/orange issue!
Hi, just found this video, I was interested with your results. I use 2 lumix cameras, a g80 and an FZ2000. I have been using an expo disc and grey cards to try to match the cameras Kelvin levels, however as the cameras are in different positions I was getting very different readings and therefore could not match the colours. In truth after 6 months trying to match cameras, I now set them both to the same Kelvin rating and at least I am getting equal colour balance. There are a lot of things to think about when taking photos or indeed videos, sometimes I can’t help feeling we over complicate and end up going in circles.
Different model cameras - even from the same manufacturer - often have slightly different looks to them. The lenses also have different looks. If you need identical looking video, then you need to either have identical cameras or plan to fix it in post. I would recommend shooting a color test chart like the X-Rite color checker and using that as a baseline. You can balance color in FCPX using plugins or in Davinci revolve natively.
Where shall we point the camera+W/B disc at if we are shooting with strobes? Pointing it against the strobes?
Always point towards the dominant light source, and ideally from the position of the subject. If you have multiple types of lights (ie balancing incandescent and fluorescent and daylight and strobe), then pointing toward your subject is the best bet.
Considering buying one of these but have a few questions.
1. Does it tend to work better outdoor, indoors, or equally well in both scenarios?
2. To confirm, you stand about where your subject is and point it at the source of the primary light? (e.g. sun, fluorescent fixtures, etc)
3. When calibrating, use manual focus and exposure settings to achieve the "middle bar" on the histogram?
Any other suggestions appreciated! Thanks!
You stand where your subject is and point it toward camera position.
interesting. Guess the "bumpy" side is a series of corner cube shapes. Looks like that, anyway. And of course, elementary physics tells us that a corner cube reflects light back in the same direction it came from.
I've used the ExpoDisc 2.0 for about twelve years. I use it every time I shoot.
maybe the expodisc for portrait will warm , and the neutral for landcape, is it the neutral one that you have?
As far as I know they are all neutral, but mine came with warming/cooling discs that you add on, in case you want a warmer or cooler WB calculation
My expo disc looks different. Mine looks the same on both sides! What is the deal with that. Mine doesn't have a diffused side.
I was watching other videos regarding ExpoDisc & in the most of the videos especially if you are canon user that your camera should be in MANUAL FOCUS before using Expo Disc but you didn't say anything about it. So one can use it on Autofocus too?..
My Second question is how one use it with flash in farmhouse sort of wedding where one cant bounce flash from wall to note ExpoDisc reading?
Thank You
focus won't affect it, but if you're in AF the camera may be trying to focus but won't have anything to focus on, so yeah, setting to manual avoids that. If you're using flash, then the camera will automatically switch to flash white balance. The color of the flash will override any natural light hitting your subject.
Fantastic video - thank you! One thing that I’m still not 100% on that I’m hoping you can answer here: I shoot video in a studio location - it’s always the same in terms of the subject, the lights and the camera positions. However there are a total of four angles that I shoot so the cameras are getting a slightly different image each in terms of white balance. I’ve used a color checker in the past and it’s pretty OK but especially with my background lights being purple and cyan it’s still not as good as I think it could be.
Now I’m wondering if in the case of using the Expodisc I’d have to point each of the cameras to where they are shooting from correct? So one would be straight ahead, one is an overhead shot, one is on the right at an angle and the last one left at an angle.
Hope the makes sense 😅
Thanks for the help!
Hmm, for color matching cameras I always do it with custom white balance then possibly do a final match in post. I don’t think this tool is the way to go for multicam.
Thank you!! For some reason I’m confused. I’m wanting to get very accurate sunset colors. Will it work ok at sunset? So I’d point my camera away from sunset to get the reading? Why am I confused. I’ll rewatch :). Thanks!!
Sunset is hard because you can’t go to where the subject is. Hm good question though… I’d probably point it at the sky, towards the sun but not right at it. Check their website too; I’m sure that’s a common question. Thanks!
Ok thank you!!
If I understand it correctly, the overall goal/purpose of using the ExpoDisc is to capture the "raw" source of light hitting a subject vs gathering "reflected" light. To set white balance, the photographer would position him/herself in the subject's position (i.e. where the subject would ultimately stand in a shot) and create a custom white balance while aiming "towards" the light source (perhaps not directly). In this position, the camera will receive the same natural light being cast "directly" upon the subject. Once the white balance is set, the photographer & subject would move back into the correct positions. Now, any photos taken will be based on the light hitting the subject, NOT the light being reflected off the subject which would be the case if the photographer simply set the white balance without moving (typical).
Whether or not this makes a "huge" difference is probably up for debate since our eyes see objects based on "reflected" light hitting an object. So basically, you're setting white balance off the "source" of light vs "reflected" light. Again...just my understanding.
Hi Joseph. First, I apologize that I'm jumping the gun here and haven't even finished your video yet. Sorry. Next, I have a device that is something similar to that one except it has a handle, and wasn't super expensive. It is not totally white either. If I remember correctly, it is 18% gray. I shoot with the G9 and have tried to build a good habbit of manually white ballancing every shot before final focus. If the light just seems bad, or the camera wants to use a weird white ballance, I use this device. It really does seem to work the ballance very well. Just my thoughts. Thanks Joseph.
Sorry for the typo on using the word advice in place of device. I have a "device" that may work correctly. Thanks.
I have one like yours, with a handle. The 18% gray is correct... I believe that was actually an industry-standard gray-card tonality for some time in the film era.
The way this ExpoDisc is designed to work seems very logical to me, calibrate for invident light -- wow! So simple.
Except you as a photographer will be interfering with the light when you walk out there in the scene for the white balancing. And then you won't be there any longer when you actually take the picture. Or let's say your clothing and skin color does not match your model you're gonna wrongly calibrate for portraits as well. It's a mess!
@@finlandjourney6065It doesn’t matter whether you’re in the scene, or what you’re wearing, because you’re not in the WB shot - you’re pointing the camera AWAY from you / your subject, towards the light hitting your subject - that’s why it’s called “incident”, not “reflected”. What you say does indeed apply to reflected light, like if you shot the wrong way as Joseph says he did previously, balancing from the normal shooting position. Just think of the Expodisc as turning your camera into a separate, external, handheld light-meter device - you hold at the subject but pointed forward towards the camera to catch the light falling onto the subject.
I was using the expo disk wrong...however the stage had multicolor lights pointing down and I kept getting a white balance error on my sony a7sii. I ended up having to point it toward a spot that didn't have that color mix. Do colored lights screw up the whitebalance?
Oh yeah, definitely. That’s a unique situation and a good one to think through. Remember the purpose of white balance is to neutralize the light cast so everything looks “true”. Basically, so white is white. If you shine a blue light on a white paper and WB off of that, you’ve just turned it back to white. Thing is, you don’t WANT that paper to be white. You want it to be blue. So you need to white balance for the ambient light withOUT the stage lights, then let the stage light colors actually color the image. Does that make sense?
If you use an ND filter how do you use the export disk?
No differently, but do have the ND in place when measuring WB from the exposdisk. Some cheap ND filters will impart a color cast, so this would help to negate that.
How would this work when shooting outdoors and not in a static spot?
Until the lighting changes dramatically, yes
If you have an on Camera flash how do you use the expodisc
The same way you use it without, but you have to move the flash off-camera and point it at the subject/camera/expodisc to measure. However if you're shooting on-camera flash, then camera will default to flash WB. It'd only make sense to do a custom WB if your flash is really low, i.e. as a fill flash, and you're also exposing for ambient light.
Hi, how this would perform taking portraits in a forest, green leaves and natural light ?
Just fine
in a studio setting with multiple lights... what's the 'at the light source' using the expo disk? helllllpp :)
The most likely point at the camera
Grazie))
Prego!
Here’s what still confuses me, if I’m photographing a landscape l can’t usually get all the way to what I want to photograph.
Of course l can go a few meters forward and look back at the camera’s position with the Expo attached but, many times there are parts of the scene between the camera and subject that are being hit by different intensities of light that aren’t picked up by the Expo because it’s not far enough away from the camera position. How can l determine how much of a difference this will make?
I have one and use it when shooting people. Do not use it for landscapes, wildlife, sports, etc. Does help with weddings and face shots or glamor shots where you want to be right. Remember, if the light source changes (late evening with the sun setting) you have to reset for the new light.
Is it okay to point the expodic with your camera at the direct sun? So, can you get your white balance and exposure?
No. Never point anything directly at the Sun. Point towards where the camera will be.
@@photojoseph okay. Thank you.
So... of no use for forest/woodlandphotography or cinematography with lot of shade between trees?
Sure it is. Accurate white balance is always important.
how to you set the expodisc when you are using a flash?
Hm, I’d think no differently than not using a flash, but the flash has to stay where the camera will be for the photo, while the camera points back to where the camera will be to set the white balance. So you’d need a way to trigger the flash remotely.
I say use a gel that matches the ambient light on the flash. Otherwise white balance for flash.
Where the Expodisc really shines is in mixed lighting. In a room with some sunlight, incandescent light and some fluorescent light will fool most auto white balance settings.
Truth!
So really the disc only good for controlled studio lighting rather than outdoors or in a mixed lighting environment. I'll stick to AWB or my grey card
The Expodisc is meant as an incident light meter, not a reflective one. It doesn't matter if you're in the shade or even under the same light source as that landscape waaaaaaaaaaaay over yonder. The light on a landscape in the distance will not be the same amount of light falling on the environment immediately around you where you're standing, and it's not hitting the landscape at the same angles as it's hitting you and your immediate environs so the same amount of light isn't hitting every visible part of the landscape the same way. It may seem that way but it's not. There's a reason you don't use an incident light meter (in incident mode anyhow) to meter this scenario. It's not possible to get an accurate incident reading of the exact amount of light falling on that landscape if you're not actually there, which is why it's better to base that reading off of reflective metering and adjust accordingly. Ask yourself why no landscape photographer ever uses incident metering for distant landscapes.
I just bought one last night from a Craigslist seller for $5. They bought it and never used it. I've always wanted one but I couldn't bring myself to buy one when my coffee filter worked so well.
Ben Lee can you explain how you use a coffee filter to fix your white balance?
@@kathysimindinger8753
You can cover your lens with a single layer of white coffee filter and use it in the same manner as the Expodisc. I cut a filter and sandwiched it between 2 UV filters.
For the record this is the same principal but NOT as accurate as an expodisk, which is an extremely precisely calibrated device.
@@photojoseph That is no lie! I can't get over how much better the Expodisc is. I'm pretty mad at me for not buying one 10 years ago. I'll never go back to the coffee filter!
I have it but it has not been completely clear to me where I have to sign up to do it well, for example if I'm going to record at a restaurant where I sign up? Or imagine that I'm going to take pictures in a gym, I thought I had to point to the subject but I see that I don't... could you tell me some tips thank you very much
Sign up? Don’t know what you mean, but you point to where the light is coming from or where the camera will be. I thought that was really clear in this video, no?
@@photojoseph It's just that I didn't understand it well, if for example I record video in the living room of a gym, photo no, video... where do I have to measure?
@@photojoseph stf
I don’t understand. If you are pointing your camera at the light source then how do you take a picture of your subject. The light on your subject is going to be a bit different. So you set the white balance in kelvins and then use that kelvin for the WB on your subject?
You’re pointing at the light to measure the light. I think you should watch the video again; perhaps you skipped past critical parts of it.
Just bought one with your affiliate link 👍
Thanks!
But you never showed us how exactly you used the ExpoDisc the proper way, just the incorrect way. In the portrait example you have multiple light sources and temperatures lighting his face. Direct sun, the light through the umbrella, reflections from the table and surrounding objects etc. How exactly did you use the ExpoDisc in that scenario?
What to do if my Panasonic camera says the light is too bright or there’s Not enough light? When I’m doing the white balance
Adjust exposure
@@photojoseph Thanks! You just answered my question about getting the exposure right first using the Expodisc, THEN getting the reading. Thank you!
Where can I find the color card that you're using?
It’s called an “X-Rite color checker”.
@@photojoseph Ok, thank you very much.
Do you have to do this reset before each shot?
Not every shot, but every environment change where the lighting changes; yes, if you want to be super accurate.
Only if the light has changed.
Hi! At 7:44 you mean "face the camera" not the "subject"... Thanks for your great video!
No… I said it correctly. The solid white side is what faces the sensor. You put this on your lens with the solid white side pointing IN, at the sensor. The "textured" looking side is what faces the subject / light source / etc.
@@photojoseph ok thank you... My English is not so good... But I learn a lot with your videos. Thanks
How would you use it if you want to photograph interior with sun shining thru windows and you want those windows and sun falling on the floor in your shot ?
Would you stand near window and turn camera toward the place you want to shoot from or what ?
point the camera at the light source… so stand where the subject will be and point it at the source (the window)
@@photojoseph well thank you but that is precisely what is confusing me, subject is interior of the room so it is everywhere, light source is the sun shining thru window does that mean you don't move anywhere instead just point camera into window from other corner of the room from where you want to take shot ? But if that is the case you showed example of standing in shade and white balance was off and in this situation you effectively are in shade ? Is it not usable in this situation or should you stand in the sun and then point the camera into window ?
Wherever you are, you point the camera (ExpoDisc) at the light source. If you are in a room that's half shade and half direct sun, then you need to decide which you want to white balance for, and stand there. Those are two different white balances.
@@mmenjic Point it to where you are going to be standing while taking the picture. It will factor in all the different light sources.
@@sb1493 so essentially I would take one photo with this and then not move anything just remove it and take regular photo, correct ?
I carry a ream of paper on my car, always great white balance, why the disk when a simple sheet of paper does the job, been doing it sice 2010.
Here’s why th-cam.com/video/-DsQDZaGckY/w-d-xo.html
I have one. Tricky for video use
never really used it for video!
what about the expodisc?
This… is… the ExpoDisc
@@photojoseph I don't know how you keep your sanity responding to some comments lol.
That’s why the expodisc comes with instructions 🤓
You’re new to TH-cam, aren’t you 😁
Can this tool be used for sports photography inside a gym? If so, do you need to stand on the basketball court and shoot out into the audience or up to the ceiling? If so, what if you're not allowed? Can you take your test shot from the stands? What about in a high school football game? Do you shoot towards the stadium lights or at the football field? Or is it just better to get one of those color checkerboards? Lastly, is it better to also shoot in raw, in case you get it wrong? Can exposure and white balance still be corrected? Thanks for any insight you can give. I really appreciate your video. Great job!
point to the light source, so in a huge place like a stadium it doesn’t matter much if you’re in the stands or the field. And yes, always shoot RAW so you’d an adjust WB and do some exposure correction
@@photojoseph Thanks for the reply. I actually received mine yesterday and quickly started messing with it. I bought the 82mm so that it can fit over my 24-70 canon lens and any smaller ones. I took some before and after pics in the yard and I quickly saw the difference. The before pics had a blueish/purple hue when shot in AWB and the after pics had a softer warm tone which was more accurate. I was actually able to get some better details on textured walls and the colors weren't washed out. I think this is a game-changer, i can't wait to experiment with it this Fall when i shoot some sport pics. This device is truly worth the cheap price. I also bought a color checker passport, i can't wait to compare the two. Thanks for your videos, they are extremely helpful.
@@3-piece129 Hello I was wondering what your thoughts on the expodisc are after using it for some time now. I am interested in buying it. Have been using a grey card and also do AWB when light changes frequently. What I like about this product is you can put it over the lens to check WB and not have to hold , or have your subject hold, the grey card. Has this been helpful to you in run & gun situations? Are you able to get correct WB in stadiums or open fields at sporting events? Is the use case of this product just as easy as it appears, e.g. point the camera to light source in any scenario?
@@rlgrant00 Hi sorry for the delayed response. Yes, i use it often. More for indoors. I've never used a grey card but i would think it's easier. I still fine tune WB in LR but it's easier. My pics aren't as saturated in "orange/yellow" SOOC. The skin tones are more life-like if you get what i mean. If you research the product, some say to put the disc in front of your camera and shoot back to where you're going to stand, this helps but if you're in a stadium or gym with even lighting you shouldn't have to do it this way. I've set my WB from the sidelines by shooting toward the field/court as well and didn't notice much difference. I shoot HS sports, so when i want to take the pic with the disc, from the court to the sidelines, I'll do it before the players are on the court warming up. I just tell the staff I'm walking onto the court for light readings and I'll be off in 5 seconds which ain't a lie. I usually get my pic from just inside the free throw lane where most of the action is and shoot to the base line or side. For a football field, i just get the pic from the sidelines because it's much stricter to get on the field. Now, I'm sure you're aware that the lights cycle which changes the color output. You might need to take another pic to "reset" your WB. But that's not a problem because it's easy to do. Just put your disc in front of the lens, snap a pic, and use that "greyed-out" image you get as your new baseline for WB. i usually have mine hanging around my neck for easy use. Sorry that i went so long. In short, the expodisc is not a cheap gimmick to waste your money on - it actually works and worth it. Just buy the largest diameter they have so that it covers your whole lens. This will keep any light from creeping in from the sides. You can then change your smaller diameter lens to a larger one.
@@3-piece129 Thank you for responding! This was very helpful in my decision making as I was not sure if this was as easy as it looked for setting WB. I am now planning to order the expodisc.
Joseph- I am a big fan of your LumaFusion tutorials… These videos discover your acting talent (of comedic variety)… I wonder if you are using scripts?
What do YOU say about it? are you using it more now that you learned how to use it? is it worth the $
I rarely use it
why use expodisc if you shoot RAW - white balance can be fixed in post.
I don't think this is entirely good advice, for the main reason that, light temperature cools as it bounces. the direct light source is going to be warmer then the first reflected bounce. i've done exactly what was suggested in this video, I actually assumed that's how it was supposed to work, yet when i'd compare that to balancing off my grey card the expo disk was always too cool. outside especially. if I use my expo disk pointing at the sun it's way off but if I balance with the sun behind me it ends up looking good
If you're taking portraits it would seem like the ExpoDisc is useless because you're using strobe lighting. How can that do a white balance during the time of a flash burst? Unless you use the flash photo in post production.
If you're only using strobe lighting, then sure a custom WB may not be necessary. If you're balancing strobe and natural lighting though, then this can be exceptionally helpful to find the right white balance. When you measure the white balance as directed in this video, if you're going to use a strobe, then the strobe would fire during the WB calculation.
@@photojoseph Then with strobes, you could only use the Expo Disc in post production, once you took the strobe photo with it, correct? ie, you would then use that photo with the white balance tool to come up with a WB and apply that to all other photos in post production. You couldn't use the expo disc to give you a white balance of the CAMERA by taking a strobe photo since the burst of light is too fast to set your camera's WB to.
I don’t follow. THe white balance is set by the camera when it takes a photo. Either it takes a photo to set a white balance, or you take a photo first then use that to set the white balance. Either way, the flash will fire. Just try it… you’ll see. It’ll make more sense when you try it.
People keep saying this but gray cards are not and never were designed for white balance, they are for exposure. White is fine for white balance.
hm, I don't think I said an 18% grey card is to be used for WB, however a slightly grey card (neutral, obviously) is better for WB than a pure white card, because pure white can be overexposed and once all channels are over 255, you have no way to know if one channel is higher (and therefore the image is shifted towards R G or B). Even the expensive X-Rite white balance cards are NOT white. They are slightly darker than white.
Ohhhh. I was sooo close to not watching this until I realized you were not going to do the entire video in portrait mode. Portrait mode videos 99% of the time are beyond annoying. So for clarification, if using this outdoors in the day time- obviously it is the sun that is the main light source. So you point camera with Expo disc toward the sun?
Never use auto anything especially white balance. Use custom, presets or Kelvin and white balance shift bracketing. Anything white will work for a custom white balance i use a piece of a white t shirt i can wad up and carry in my pocket, backpack or a gadget bag. Or I just use my many years of photography knowledge and use Kelvin degrees and or live view. Adjusting until I'm happy with the color balance. Sunrise sunset to warm it up shoot high 6,000 to 10,0000 Kelvin. Incandescent light 2800 to 3200 Kelvin. Daylight 5000 to 5500 if I want warmth 6000 Kelvin. Shade 6000 to 6500 Kelvin. Deep shade 7000 Kelvin. Lower numbers more blue (cool)and higher numbers more yellow (warm) the colors its that simple.
You know... when you set the playback speed on PhotoJoseph's videos to 75%, it sound perfectly normal. Try it, you'll see!
LOL I tell people that all the time who complain that I talk too fast!
@@photojoseph Seriously Joseph, your channel rocks! I've been a fan and a sub of yours for years and you just keep getting better! Keep it up, we're watching (and listening very carefully)!!!
@@57JackCaptainSparrow thanks man… you have no idea how much comments like yours are appreciated. Thank you.
Did you just say you can fix jpg and video white balance, Mate what planet are you from? did you test it? there is a reason why were looking for a fast and easy solution
Did you actually watch the video? It works great in nearly any situation. And it’s not about “fixing” WB; that’d infer it’s changed in post. This is about getting it right in-camera.
So, Expodisk is really no good for landscape images I guess (during sunrise or sunset)
if anything, "wrongly" is at least the "correct" adverbial form. A better word in this context might have been "Incorrectly"
First off I thank you for your help in the past. Joseph I have use No filters for over 20 years & trained by Janice Wendt. I brought Nik Filters 4. I could get it to my Mac M1 to work in Photoshop. There is no tech support for Nik’s now since they were brought I need help to get my Nik’s to work inside of my Nik filters 4.
I have a 12” Mac 2012 laptop with Nik’s filters 3 on it. Inorder to do my retouching I have import my file into my Nik’s filter 3 on my 12” 2012 Mac laptop computer to use Nik’s
If you have a contact number go Nik’s 4 customer service. This would be great or a email for a intelligent customer service person at Nik’s or what ever the French owners are called now . This would be great. I was going to Nik 5. I would do this irritate myself
The owner of Nik Collection is DxO, and it is at version 5 now. You need to upgrade for it to work on your M1. photojoseph.com/NikCollection
I find me Expodisks a bit cool. I prefer the X-rite Color Checker Passport - especially in the studio where the default flash WB setting gives a funky result with my Godox lights
You find it COOL… that’s interesting, since for me if anything it felt warm. I wonder if you and I looked at the same photo, I’d we’d disagree that it was cool or warm! When the side-by-side came up of the in-studio correctly calibrated expodisc photo, what did you think? Warm, neutral or cool?
When you use the expodisk, what mode do you shot to get the custom white balance? I use Alien Bees, so do I have to shoot the disk in flash or fluorescent mode?
very confusing is any way just getting a model
I don’t understand the question
you can achieve the same effect by just putting a paper tissue over your lens ... same effect as the ExpoDisc but about 0.1% of the Price ;)
Uh… a paper tissues is not an accurate WB meter.
it works been struggling to get correct custom white balance on a fuji with speedlite bounced out of a white brolley by photographing a white card put some tissue over my lens and pointed at light source used photo for custom setting, accurate white balance achieved thank you
@@photojoseph paper tissue worked well for me better than all the wb settings kelvin gray and white cards,and adjusting raw images with wb tools i was at a loss till i came over your video just to let you know i'm getting an expodisc and expecting it will give better results than tissue paper
Awesome! Let us know how it goes please!
@@photojoseph Got mine from Amazon for £34.00 that $44.90 very pleased use a lot of flash really warms things up flash is so cold even when correct kelvin is set in camera beats tissue paper which gives a slight yellow cast will have to try expodisc outside in different daylight times looking forward to some excellent results
It's 'incorrectly'.
lots of poeple say not so good. Auto WB
I think it’s great in some cases. Nothing is perfect for everything. It’s another tool in the bag. I’d use it mostly for mixed lighting.
Expodisk does exactly what I can do with one change in WB setting in clear sky daylight, except I gotta pay $50 and fiddle with some dangly thing in front of my lens first??? No thanks.
There’s a sucker born every minute.
Tell me you don’t understand white balance without telling me you don’t understand white balance.
Very detailed explanation, although it was presented too fast (talking). Covering to many aspects of correcting White balance, Was hard to actually comprehend everything (information) you were attempting to share with your viewers. SLOW DOWN, DO NOT HAVE SO MUCH INFO THAT YOUR LISTENER GETS CONFUSED, OR CANNOT REMEMBER ANYTHING YOU ACTUALLY SHARED WITH THEM 🙋♂️☺️
You know it's a video you can rewind and view as many times as you like, right?
Tooks 3:44 minutes to hold the item and start explaining the subject of this very video.
Yeah lots of useful background information and things to help beginners understand the topic. Great!
Maybe you should make your own version and post it here. Be happy that this man took the effort to make this video. It's always easy to give negative comments, while such people would never take the effort to make it right and post it here on YT.
For avid learners peripheral information is not at most. Looks more a show of personal knowledge about interminable gibberish. The topic has to be quick explain and later any other information can enhance the use or the differences with similar objects. My comment was no a negative opinion but an instruction for teaching. Information presented like in this video tends to disperse the attention.
@@manolorodriguez7858 I watched the video. I did not find it to be too long, too detailed or too much off topic. Your massive intellect is evidently not well suited to this form of unconcentrated information, but a lot of other people just don't agree with you. Feel free to express your disappointment, but understand that you speak only for yourself.
White text over yellow? Dude, really?
I’m so glad that this is what you’ve taken from this video. 🙄
Wow u spent the entire video showing the old way and then the wrong way that by the very end you were talking so fast now I’m totally confused . How about a video just showing how to do it the right way