Thank you Josh, you made a very well tutorial, I am from Mexico, I think you speak very well, dynamic, clear and with good knowledge and experience of doing this techniques.
Hi Josh. I lived in Las Vegas which is right in the UP’s LA to Salt Lake City mainline. Those UP locomotives get nasty dirty and dusty running across the Mojave Desert. Great video!!
One of the best and most informative weathering videos I've seen. Going to follow it step by step as I do my ST BNSF locos. Are you doing a second video of the burn mark on the long hood. I have several prototype photos of these burns and yours looks just right.
Great video. You mentioned at the beginning of the video that you had changed the engine number on the body of the engine and on the number boards. How about doing a video on that. Some people might find this basic, but it would be good to know the best way to remove the factory painted numbers from the body without wrecking the paint or the plastic, how to put on new number decals so that they are lined up properly, the best way to remove factory applied numbers from the number boards, and the best way to apply new numbers to the numberboards. Thanks.
Scalestrains you make the best dash 9’s every these locos are outstanding you got me to buy this model. That you for sharing. This will make my little train set be more realistic with these running around. And I can double head with your et44c4 to! More to the fleet! I would love to weather one of these locos when I get one but I don’t think I can if I mess up thats a dash 9 down the drain..
Nicely done and explained, Josh. It appears you removed the handrails before you performed your procedures. Did you weather them separately, and if so, how? Also, when you remove the masking tape doesn't that leave "bright spots" on the narrow framing members between/around the window panes? How do you handle that? Lastly, these procedures will leave masked shadows on the wheel faces. Did you go back afterwards and color the wheel faces uniformly? Your finished model looks super. Thank you.
Here's my question, are the wheels masked? I am thinking that if everything is weathered together, would there be a outline of the trucks on the wheels?
Hi Josh, great job. Which tip do you use on your Paasche H, #1, #3, or #5? Also, I don't think you mentioned your preferred air pressure. Recommendations on air pressure seem to vary considerably. Thanks!
@nsmodler24 That's an awesome job you've done there Josh. I'm sure this may seem like an obvious question, but has weathering the trucks too heavily ever caused damage to any of the electronics or any kind of operational issues?
Just clean the wheels. Other than that there should be no problems. A little Goo gone on a rag (old t-shirt) and run the wheels over it on the front truck and then the back truck while it is on powered rails and your good to go.
Do they also make dullcoat for applying from the airbrush? Rattle-cans usually have huge droplets that I think are not the best for fine details like we have in these models. Also, going back over 30-years now, I shot Testors rattle-can dullcoat on a caboose that I had and it seemed to leave a hazy glaze on the model that I think actually ruined the finish. There was no other weathering done, I just wanted to knock down the glossiness of the caboose. In fairness and disclosure, I was just a young unexperienced teen and may have applied too much, but I'm still hesitant to shoot coat after coat after coat as you've done here, even though I know you're letting it dry in between coats.
Don't use Dullcote from a rattle can. You found out first hand what happens. Tamiya TS80 Clear Flat in a rattle can is the best. I use it on prize models. It i expensive though. Krylon or Rustoleam make clear flat that is very inexpensive. I use it on cars.
Try several very light coats (Dullcote rattle can) from a good distance away. Be patient, and keep your spray pattern moving. I understand your problem - been there. Just go easy with it. You'll get good at it.
We made it ourselves to fit under/into our layout. Mostly 2x4 and plywood construction, a fan from Grainger, applied a metal surface to paint on (it stays smoother, doesn't get paint build up like wood does, and you can clean it with paint thinner) and then the hood was made out of a large plastic storage bin. We put it on wheels so we could move it around. We have a flexible vent tube that can be hooked up to the back of it and it runs to a vent that goes outside. We filter the air going out side with 1" airvent material. It is a pretty easy day job to build it. All said it was probably less than $200. Tom (Josh's Dad)
Pretty sure ESU project S0772 is just a rip from the scaletrains version. V1-R1 even had the description "SXT Dash 9" before they fixed it lol. Although I download S0540 (previously on the website as S0640) into my Dash 9s since I like it better.
I am curious when this company will stop the love affair with this young man. The layout is his fathers and it is easy to be a rich kid who sits in his fathers layout room and adds detail here or there. Now this brat has grown up and the wealth privilege continues.
Jealously will get "YOU" nowhere. I bet you have alot of nice things that other less fortunate people would love to have.Cheer up ,enjoy life,it goes by quicker than you think.!!
What is wrong with you. They have worked together this whole time, and that is so untrue. I have met Josh and he does so much. I’m curious when you will get a brain.
Scale Trains found the right person for the weathering Job....Looks good Josh. Bob
I’ve been reluctant to do any weathering, but with this perfectly explaining and inspiring video. I will feel confident to do so !
Thank you Josh for your Step by step weathering techniques on how to Weather an Locomotive.
Thank you Josh, you made a very well tutorial, I am from Mexico, I think you speak very well, dynamic, clear and with good knowledge and experience of doing this techniques.
Very well done video, thanks for showing your techniques Josh!
Hi Josh. I lived in Las Vegas which is right in the UP’s LA to Salt Lake City mainline. Those UP locomotives get nasty dirty and dusty running across the Mojave Desert.
Great video!!
One of the best and most informative weathering videos I've seen. Going to follow it step by step as I do my ST BNSF locos. Are you doing a second video of the burn mark on the long hood. I have several prototype photos of these burns and yours looks just right.
Josh at Nsmodeler24 has a video on that.
Excellent job. Good speaking skills too. Best weathering I've seen in a video.
Great video. You mentioned at the beginning of the video that you had changed the engine number on the body of the engine and on the number boards. How about doing a video on that. Some people might find this basic, but it would be good to know the best way to remove the factory painted numbers from the body without wrecking the paint or the plastic, how to put on new number decals so that they are lined up properly, the best way to remove factory applied numbers from the number boards, and the best way to apply new numbers to the numberboards. Thanks.
Hi Bruce, we will be sharing a video on how-to renumber a ScaleTrains.com locomotive with Josh in the very near future. -Drayton
Scalestrains you make the best dash 9’s every these locos are outstanding you got me to buy this model. That you for sharing. This will make my little train set be more realistic with these running around. And I can double head with your et44c4 to! More to the fleet! I would love to weather one of these locos when I get one but I don’t think I can if I mess up thats a dash 9 down the drain..
Man, you make this look easy...
Very cool, thanks for sharing.
GOOD VIDEO
Well done! 👍
Thank you! 👍 -Drayton
Awesome Video! Thanks Josh!
Nicely done and explained, Josh. It appears you removed the handrails before you performed your procedures. Did you weather them separately, and if so, how? Also, when you remove the masking tape doesn't that leave "bright spots" on the narrow framing members between/around the window panes? How do you handle that? Lastly, these procedures will leave masked shadows on the wheel faces. Did you go back afterwards and color the wheel faces uniformly? Your finished model looks super.
Thank you.
参考になります！
Great information, thanks!
Here's my question, are the wheels masked? I am thinking that if everything is weathered together, would there be a outline of the trucks on the wheels?
Hi Josh, great job. Which tip do you use on your Paasche H, #1, #3, or #5? Also, I don't think you mentioned your preferred air pressure. Recommendations on air pressure seem to vary considerably. Thanks!
We actually switched to an Iwata airbrush since the video. A dual action brush. Pretty amazing and tops most top 5-10 airbrush lists.
Tom Clark hi Tom! Could I have a link to one good for the beginner who wants to airbrush some models?
Curious by not removing the parts individually there is no risk of damage or paint build up on wheels that prevents good electrical conductivity ?
Correct. Plus, the wheels are rather easy to clean if there is an issue. -Drayton
Great job Josh! One question. What size needle did you use for your airbrush?
@nsmodler24 That's an awesome job you've done there Josh. I'm sure this may seem like an obvious question, but has weathering the trucks too heavily ever caused damage to any of the electronics or any kind of operational issues?
Flash Jones .....good question
Just clean the wheels. Other than that there should be no problems. A little Goo gone on a rag (old t-shirt) and run the wheels over it on the front truck and then the back truck while it is on powered rails and your good to go.
Are you using just plain black weathering powder? Great video!
How much paint ends up on the wheels and gears?
Not much and it generally doesn't effect the operation of the models. -Drayton
I want to weather mine but I really dont want to mess it up since itll be my first time
Practice on a few old shells. You can buy them quite cheaply at most train shows.
Do they also make dullcoat for applying from the airbrush? Rattle-cans usually have huge droplets that I think are not the best for fine details like we have in these models. Also, going back over 30-years now, I shot Testors rattle-can dullcoat on a caboose that I had and it seemed to leave a hazy glaze on the model that I think actually ruined the finish. There was no other weathering done, I just wanted to knock down the glossiness of the caboose. In fairness and disclosure, I was just a young unexperienced teen and may have applied too much, but I'm still hesitant to shoot coat after coat after coat as you've done here, even though I know you're letting it dry in between coats.
eSPeeScotty yes testors sells their dullcote along with thinner both in a bottle. I use that with my airbrush
If you have a glazing effect let it dry and come back with dullcote again, then it should disappear it happened to me as well
Oh good, thanks for the info.
Don't use Dullcote from a rattle can. You found out first hand what happens. Tamiya TS80 Clear Flat in a rattle can is the best. I use it on prize models. It i expensive though. Krylon or Rustoleam make clear flat that is very inexpensive. I use it on cars.
Try several very light coats (Dullcote rattle can) from a good distance away. Be patient, and keep your spray pattern moving. I understand your problem - been there. Just go easy with it. You'll get good at it.
Thanks, what do you suggest using if you do not have an air brush?
Just skip the paint part and do powders.
Can you list a preferred air sprayer? I'm lazy and buy to much stuff on amazon
Iwata airbrushes are great!
Hey Josh, where did you get the paint booth? If you made it, what materials did you use?
We made it ourselves to fit under/into our layout. Mostly 2x4 and plywood construction, a fan from Grainger, applied a metal surface to paint on (it stays smoother, doesn't get paint build up like wood does, and you can clean it with paint thinner) and then the hood was made out of a large plastic storage bin. We put it on wheels so we could move it around. We have a flexible vent tube that can be hooked up to the back of it and it runs to a vent that goes outside. We filter the air going out side with 1" airvent material. It is a pretty easy day job to build it. All said it was probably less than $200.
Tom (Josh's Dad)
Does the paint endanger your electronics?
No, it does not. -Drayton
When will the sound file for the dash 9's be available on esu?
Pretty sure ESU project S0772 is just a rip from the scaletrains version. V1-R1 even had the description "SXT Dash 9" before they fixed it lol. Although I download S0540 (previously on the website as S0640) into my Dash 9s since I like it better.
@@amtrak706 Oh didn’t expect to see you here....😂
@@midwest_railfan Well we are all modelers, lol
@@amtrak706 Ah yes ofc well i’ll be on my way to sleep then lol goodnight model railroaders 😂
Great - but it needs dirty windows.
I like it better straight out of the box
Don't weather, it ruins the Locos and Cars
I am curious when this company will stop the love affair with this young man. The layout is his fathers and it is easy to be a rich kid who sits in his fathers layout room and adds detail here or there. Now this brat has grown up and the wealth privilege continues.
Jealously will get "YOU" nowhere. I bet you have alot of nice things that other less fortunate people would love to have.Cheer up ,enjoy life,it goes by quicker than you think.!!
@@JohnR.1968 I am not jealous. The kid has nothing but what his father has provided.
@@markfallon104 yes,yes you're so jealous and its a shame people like you have to be that way.poor little baby ,do you need some attention?
What is wrong with you. They have worked together this whole time, and that is so untrue. I have met Josh and he does so much. I’m curious when you will get a brain.
And you are clearly jealous.