This video reviews my build and trim flights for my 24-inch span Fokker D-7 for rubber powered free flight built from the Herr kit. It's a great flyer.
The wing jigs are a great idea as was the bamboo pegs for the struts, two good ideas. I noticed as well you brought the rear peg forward a bay, wondered if you did, I had to go back to 1:14 to check though, lovely model as always John, cheers
You are very observant of details! Those barrels were printed by a friend on a laser cutter. You can make something similar, without the real holes, on a computer printer. Make a rectangle image with the holes and color the holes a lighter color than the barrel. Cut out the rectangle and roll it around a dowel and glue the seam. Good luck with your DR1 and thanks for watching.
Thanks Dave. I would have flown it at the Non-NATS but the wind was really blowing for the WWI mass launch. The model had less than 10 flights on it at that point. Now I know it could handle that wind. It really is a good flyer.
Lovely work. It takes some planning to capture the whole building process on "film". It looks like you managed to get a hunk of something for a spinner. I assume that is the nose-weight? Biplanes are magnificent to watch. Someday....
Thank you, Ken. Yes, I take lots of photos during the build. Many are never used. The spinner is part of the Gezmo Geezer front end. If you haven't seen them, they are a prop with a free wheel clutch device. They're a great way to go, the transition from power to freewheel is flawless. It also holds your motor with a bit of tension once in the freewheel mode so no issues with shifts in CG with the rubber clumping at the rear peg. The bearing also has three tiny allan screws that allow precise adjustment of the thrustline. Very handy during trimming. The spinner covers the spring tension device on the front of the shaft. They aren't cheap, but still a nice way to go.
Hugely impressive! I love the detail on the guns, engine, pilot etc. You're giving King Tom a run for his money even with this lovely D7! Thanks John. ⭐👍
Thank you, William, and that's certainly a gracious comment. Not sure I can ever approach the build quality of Tom, but I can dream. 🙂 Thanks for watching.
That's a very good question and something I maybe should have included. Basically, you want to angle the prop shaft down. On some models this might include a shim of balsa between the removable nose block and the fuselage. With this model, I have something called the Gizmo Geezer. It's an adjustable thrust bearing that has 3 tiny allen screws that can be turned to change the angle of the propeller shaft. A pretty nifty device. They're available from Volare Model Products. volareproducts.com/wordpress/ Thanks for watching!
Hey John, your lovely wife turned me on to your channel. I think you are familiar with my watercolors and I had to see what you were building. I’d liked and subscribed and I’m pretty sure this D7 will be my next WWI piece. Continued success and I look forward to watching more of your videos!
Hi Don. Thank you for checking out my channel and subscribing. Yes, my wife shared some of your amazing artwork. Just wow. Hard to believe it's water colors. Simply impressive. Look forward to taking a look at more of your aviation work. Thanks for watching!
Epson 7710 Workforce with Durabrite ink. You can see more details to the equipment and process in this video. th-cam.com/video/zt68Ran2Dm4/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching.
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Looks very realistic at a distance flying around. Nice!
Thank you.
Nice ,wheres Biggles in his Sopwith Camel 👍
Very nice . Those barrel shrouds look amazing .
Thank you. Yes, the barrels were done by a friend on a laser cutter. Really are quite nice. Thanks for watching.
The wing jigs are a great idea as was the bamboo pegs for the struts, two good ideas. I noticed as well you brought the rear peg forward a bay, wondered if you did, I had to go back to 1:14 to check though, lovely model as always John, cheers
Thank you Cliff. Thanks for watching.
Wonderful work, im doing a Guillows DR1, can i ask how you did the barrell sleeves on the guns, i have no ideas for them.
You are very observant of details! Those barrels were printed by a friend on a laser cutter. You can make something similar, without the real holes, on a computer printer. Make a rectangle image with the holes and color the holes a lighter color than the barrel. Cut out the rectangle and roll it around a dowel and glue the seam. Good luck with your DR1 and thanks for watching.
Very nice. Love that lozenge tissue. You're ready for som ww1 mass launch action.
Thanks Dave. I would have flown it at the Non-NATS but the wind was really blowing for the WWI mass launch. The model had less than 10 flights on it at that point. Now I know it could handle that wind. It really is a good flyer.
Lovely work. It takes some planning to capture the whole building process on "film". It looks like you managed to get a hunk of something for a spinner. I assume that is the nose-weight?
Biplanes are magnificent to watch. Someday....
Thank you, Ken. Yes, I take lots of photos during the build. Many are never used. The spinner is part of the Gezmo Geezer front end. If you haven't seen them, they are a prop with a free wheel clutch device. They're a great way to go, the transition from power to freewheel is flawless. It also holds your motor with a bit of tension once in the freewheel mode so no issues with shifts in CG with the rubber clumping at the rear peg. The bearing also has three tiny allan screws that allow precise adjustment of the thrustline. Very handy during trimming. The spinner covers the spring tension device on the front of the shaft. They aren't cheap, but still a nice way to go.
Hugely impressive! I love the detail on the guns, engine, pilot etc. You're giving King Tom a run for his money even with this lovely D7! Thanks John. ⭐👍
Thank you, William, and that's certainly a gracious comment. Not sure I can ever approach the build quality of Tom, but I can dream. 🙂 Thanks for watching.
Very nice! I'm a newbie. How do you add "down-thrust" ?
That's a very good question and something I maybe should have included. Basically, you want to angle the prop shaft down. On some models this might include a shim of balsa between the removable nose block and the fuselage. With this model, I have something called the Gizmo Geezer. It's an adjustable thrust bearing that has 3 tiny allen screws that can be turned to change the angle of the propeller shaft. A pretty nifty device. They're available from Volare Model Products. volareproducts.com/wordpress/
Thanks for watching!
You really do the kit justice by jazzing it up and making it look so nice, it's icing on the cake to see it fly so well too. Excellent Work.
Thank you so much and thanks for watching. It was a fun project. Doing all the little bits can be rewarding.
Hey John, your lovely wife turned me on to your channel. I think you are familiar with my watercolors and I had to see what you were building. I’d liked and subscribed and I’m pretty sure this D7 will be my next WWI piece. Continued success and I look forward to watching more of your videos!
Hi Don. Thank you for checking out my channel and subscribing. Yes, my wife shared some of your amazing artwork. Just wow. Hard to believe it's water colors. Simply impressive. Look forward to taking a look at more of your aviation work. Thanks for watching!
A VERY clean build of a classic design! Well done!
Thank you, Jeffery. A fun project that turned out to be a good flyer. Thanks for watching.
Very nice John
Thank you Richard.
Another great model!
What type of printer and ink do you use for your graphics?
Epson 7710 Workforce with Durabrite ink. You can see more details to the equipment and process in this video. th-cam.com/video/zt68Ran2Dm4/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching.
Well done John! A real pleasure to watch, and a real looker with the sun piercing the lozenge color scheme.
Thank you, Paul. Really happy with this one and flies better than I expected. Thanks for watching.
Excellent, John, just Excellent!
Thank you.
Flies great, John!
Thank you Richard.
@Watchingthevideos99 Your welcome, John!
Bravo! Props to I for the great camera work!
Thank you. And thanks for watching.