Thanks. IPA = isopropyl alcohol. Here's the process, which is outlined (I think) on the Easy Built Models website: 1. cut oversized square of tissue over entire insignia "footprint" 2. Liberally apply gluestick to back of tissue and allow to dry 3. Put tissue glue-side down over a cutting mat, tape a paper template over, and cut out insignia with a #11 x-acto blade 4. Use a piece of painter's tape or something similar to align letters on wing or wherever, and place each letter on then soak through with a brush and 70% or 91% isopropyl to re-activate the glue stick and adhere the marking. I often have to do a little touch-up with glue stick after to get all the corners stuck down, but this works pretty well.
I've been into aeronautical hobbies for 30+ years. Never understood the rubberband group until seeing this. That sir was extremely impressive and I applaud you on your build, and flight!
Fantastic build and flight! A real masterpiece of engineering and handcraft. It is so hard to get even a single engine plane to fly and here you are flying a fantastic twin engine even without the cockpit! Thank you for inspiring!
Really enjoyed your video! There are a lot of excellent techniques in your build, each worthy of its own video. Bending balsa for the tail, adding the bass lamination, formula and technique for the prop build, applying wet tissue, and the list goes on.
Congratulations Oliver, great project! I have fond memories of the first FAC Nats you attended. We shared George White’s shade. I was impressed with your enthusiasm and how much you had been able to learn from the internet. Again, great job!
Thanks Gene, great to hear from you! Coming up on 10 years since that Nats in 2014. Your and George's mentorship that week was really special and a huge help, had never been to an FAC contest before and I remember almost losing a Moth by the end after your trimming suggestions! Multiple people told me and my dad afterwards that we'd found the best 2 guys to share tents with as newcomers. Planning on going back to Geneseo this summer with more models to fly, hope you are doing well.
Great video, super project, even really nice music. GOOD for you ! I am goofing with just flying models not scale and love the idea of the multi-motor "A" frame since I was a kid (60's) Left hand props were a bugger... but now with UAVs LH props are everywhere. Still have to convert them over and they are dense and heavy but that helps in a tractor project but gawsh awful in pushers. Keep'em flying.
Thanks for the comment. I'd be interested to hear how a twin pusher with drone props flies, I'll bet you could get it going. There are many ways of doing left hand props that are less time-intensive than the traditional carving method -- laminated-fan, formed over a cylinder, or there are even people 3D printing out there... however you choose to do it, go for it.
Nice build. Nice flying bird. I was building rubber powered paper (Japanese Tissue) and stick planes back in the middle 50s (I'm now 79 years old). I don't remember a single one flying as good as what I've seen in this video. These days I fly RC foam and foamboard planes but not stick. Stick planes tend to break into too many pieces when crashed. 😢
I remember building those as a kid, making money from snowshoveling in Brooklyn, NY in the late 1970s and early 1980s, all the wiseguy’s houses, made like $80 one day after a 24” snow storm, was like $500 today, and ran to Hobby Hut to buy them. Getting the skin on and “doping” it properly was difficult.
That would make a gorgeous light R/C park flyer! Suggest having the props counter-rotate outwards (at the top) for more stable flight. Several full -scale aircraft do this- the Lockheed P-38, Henschel 129, and Convair Model 48 Charger.
Great tutorial on a very interesting model. I love how floaty your planes are trimmed to fly- must be very light. Could you consider a tutorial on what you've learned on keeping it light, techniques, and some baseline examples of what your models weigh with and without motor? Thanks!
Thanks for the suggestion. I tried to keep this one light, and its big wing helps a lot to keep the wing loading down. A lot of keeping it light comes down to using light balsa (sub-8 lb/ft^3), light structure, and not painting too heavily, if at all. Looking at a Guillow’s kit vs most dime scale plans will give you an idea of the structural difference im talking about. Some of my other videos have weights listed for the models too, but more comprehensive is a good idea. I’ll keep that in mind for future videos
Thanks. I thought about making it removable-RC, and adding a DT, but ended up going for simplicity since the plane is a lot to handle as it is. Rudders on timers is always an interesting thought.
Hi, this looks amazing! Ive always wondered about twin props, do they spin in the same direction, or opposite direction? Would love to know about this! Thanks
I thought about it while building, maybe I’ll implement during a rebuild. But there’s something nice about the pure FF for the days when you can make it to the big field
My models fly much worse than yours WITH their noses and nose weight attached... I like the horizontal keels on the nacelles. Using that on my next rubber multi.
![[ ออกกอง ] วัยหนุ่ม 2544 โลกหลังลูกกรง..ทัวร์กองถ่ายหนังใน "คุกของจริง" | JUSTดูIT.](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vB--aOkZCpw/mqdefault.jpg)
Great instructional learning video. What is an IPA brush that is mentioned at the 4:20 mark? Fantastic flights.
Thanks. IPA = isopropyl alcohol.
Here's the process, which is outlined (I think) on the Easy Built Models website:
1. cut oversized square of tissue over entire insignia "footprint"
2. Liberally apply gluestick to back of tissue and allow to dry
3. Put tissue glue-side down over a cutting mat, tape a paper template over, and cut out insignia with a #11 x-acto blade
4. Use a piece of painter's tape or something similar to align letters on wing or wherever, and place each letter on then soak through with a brush and 70% or 91% isopropyl to re-activate the glue stick and adhere the marking.
I often have to do a little touch-up with glue stick after to get all the corners stuck down, but this works pretty well.
Proud to know you and fly with you young man. This is how I started 2024 - watching you work magic. Thank you..
thanks VG. Happy new year and you know that your mentorship and flying of jumbo small-nacelled ships was essential for this project!
I've been into aeronautical hobbies for 30+ years. Never understood the rubberband group until seeing this. That sir was extremely impressive and I applaud you on your build, and flight!
Watching high level stick and tissue models flying, restores my faith in humanity; not everyone has to buy RTF planes made out of foam.
Amazing ! ....... I sat mesmerised through the whole thing, whilst my breakfast went cold over on the counter.
Inspiring! I especially appreciate the written descriptions of your building, the solutions etc. Thanks. Now I’ll start another balsa project.
I love the simple artistry of rubber band powered flight.
Nice job, beautiful model👍
Schöne Flüge,echt klasse.Gute Arbeit.Gefällt mir sehr gut.
Danke schön!
Nice. Hope to see it at Geneseo in 2024!
Fantastic build and flight! A real masterpiece of engineering and handcraft. It is so hard to get even a single engine plane to fly and here you are flying a fantastic twin engine even without the cockpit! Thank you for inspiring!
Thank you! Many great videos on your channel, subscribed and looking forward to seeing your next projects.
@@sandfac3427 Thank you!
Great work Oliver!
Very nice model! Seems to fly better and longer than many single prop models.
Really impressive, congratulations!
One of the best - if not the best- rubber fligths I've seen on YT. Amazing job!
Really enjoyed your video! There are a lot of excellent techniques in your build, each worthy of its own video. Bending balsa for the tail, adding the bass lamination, formula and technique for the prop build, applying wet tissue, and the list goes on.
Congratulations Oliver, great project! I have fond memories of the first FAC Nats you attended. We shared George White’s shade. I was impressed with your enthusiasm and how much you had been able to learn from the internet. Again, great job!
Thanks Gene, great to hear from you! Coming up on 10 years since that Nats in 2014. Your and George's mentorship that week was really special and a huge help, had never been to an FAC contest before and I remember almost losing a Moth by the end after your trimming suggestions! Multiple people told me and my dad afterwards that we'd found the best 2 guys to share tents with as newcomers. Planning on going back to Geneseo this summer with more models to fly, hope you are doing well.
anyone whoe can build something this great is a genius, an artist, and a fine craftsman!
Thanks for the kind words.
Aren't they just !
Such beautiful work, and classy choice of music. Thanks so much!
Excellent workmanship Sir.....well done. It flew great. Blessings
Thanks for the comment.
@@sandfac3427 You are welcome Sir.
Good job and beautiful flight❤
Great video, super project, even really nice music. GOOD for you ! I am goofing with just flying models not scale and love the idea of the multi-motor "A" frame since I was a kid (60's) Left hand props were a bugger... but now with UAVs LH props are everywhere. Still have to convert them over and they are dense and heavy but that helps in a tractor project but gawsh awful in pushers.
Keep'em flying.
Thanks for the comment.
I'd be interested to hear how a twin pusher with drone props flies, I'll bet you could get it going.
There are many ways of doing left hand props that are less time-intensive than the traditional carving method -- laminated-fan, formed over a cylinder, or there are even people 3D printing out there... however you choose to do it, go for it.
Great job! That glide was dialed in!
Nice build. Nice flying bird.
I was building rubber powered paper (Japanese Tissue) and stick planes back in the middle 50s (I'm now 79 years old). I don't remember a single one flying as good as what I've seen in this video. These days I fly RC foam and foamboard planes but not stick. Stick planes tend to break into too many pieces when crashed. 😢
Bravo. Love seeing people building unique projects and making it happen! What’s next?
Thanks. Working on a large RC towline glider and free flight peanut canard.
I remember building those as a kid, making money from snowshoveling in Brooklyn, NY in the late 1970s and early 1980s, all the wiseguy’s houses, made like $80 one day after a 24” snow storm, was like $500 today, and ran to Hobby Hut to buy them. Getting the skin on and “doping” it properly was difficult.
Thanks for the memory! FF still going strong in this corner of NYC, covering now with glue stick and white glue
Fantastic airplane! I would love to build one and convert it to electric power. I just don't have the patience!
That would make a gorgeous light R/C park flyer! Suggest having the props counter-rotate outwards (at the top) for more stable flight. Several full -scale aircraft do this- the Lockheed P-38, Henschel 129, and Convair Model 48 Charger.
Thanks for the comment. I switched this plane from two RH plastic props to counter-rotating over the top balsa, and the climb was much more straight.
very nicely done your smile says it all
beautiful build beautiful flight.
Amazing flight...! Thanks for sharing
Great ! Nice work and flight !
Amazing!
Thanks! Glad you made it over here, love your videos. Balsa and tissue will always be a great medium, I get a ton of enjoyment out of these builds.
Great tutorial on a very interesting model. I love how floaty your planes are trimmed to fly- must be very light. Could you consider a tutorial on what you've learned on keeping it light, techniques, and some baseline examples of what your models weigh with and without motor? Thanks!
Thanks for the suggestion. I tried to keep this one light, and its big wing helps a lot to keep the wing loading down. A lot of keeping it light comes down to using light balsa (sub-8 lb/ft^3), light structure, and not painting too heavily, if at all. Looking at a Guillow’s kit vs most dime scale plans will give you an idea of the structural difference im talking about. Some of my other videos have weights listed for the models too, but more comprehensive is a good idea. I’ll keep that in mind for future videos
Very cool congratulations!
Nice ! You guys have to come down to Tuckahoe this year
Where exactly is that? I remember going through it with my old boss, but don't remember where it was.
Excellent work! :)
Excellent flight. Maybe use a rudder timer to control turn to help in recovery. 👍
Thanks. I thought about making it removable-RC, and adding a DT, but ended up going for simplicity since the plane is a lot to handle as it is. Rudders on timers is always an interesting thought.
Sends me back to 1970's !
Hi, this looks amazing! Ive always wondered about twin props, do they spin in the same direction, or opposite direction? Would love to know about this! Thanks
Nice build, smooth editing and great flights. Did it look a bit beaufighter-ish in profile when the nose fell off to you too? Loved the music.
My planes always fly WORSE with handmade props! Wonderful project. 😊
Excellent 😊👍👍
Put a couple of servos in there for at least rudder control ? Via remote ?
I thought about it while building, maybe I’ll implement during a rebuild. But there’s something nice about the pure FF for the days when you can make it to the big field
Perfect.
Wow wow and wow !!! So when do you start work with NASA ? I do hope you're incredibly proud of your accomplishment ! What next ? 😉🙃😎 NZ
@@deanedeane4318 thanks for the kind words. Some strange and exciting winter projects in the mix, stay tuned!!
good glad to help. flu rubber band for years
My models fly much worse than yours WITH their noses and nose weight attached... I like the horizontal keels on the nacelles. Using that on my next rubber multi.
Thanks Monz, Dave knew what he was doing using a minimum of balsa to achieve a 3D shape. Excited to see what you have in the works!
Only way to fly. Free Flight forever.
Modeling olanes the old way, balsa and glue smeling for ever.