Thanks Pete! Thanks to you I just tore down my first engine (273 Commando) and am bringing it to to the machine shop tomorrow. Just watching this video again for pointers.
Great video. Lots of useful info. A good machine shop like yours is hard to find. I have had three good shops fall by the wayside when the second generation of the family take over the business. No customer service or customer interaction. Lots of goodwill and hospitality out the window. Thank you.
It is very hard to find. There are two in my area but I work closely with one. He is getting ready to retire and it will kill me to lose such a wealth of knowledge.
Your videos are incredibly detailed and inspiring. Last week I bought an engine stand and hoist. Im gathering all the tools needed and within the next 2 years I will be buying a late 60' to early 70' f100 and doing my first rebuild. Your videos let me know that I can do this! Thanks A Ton
Happy New Year, The Studebaker 289 a family heirloom or a dream car for the owner. Thanks to all of you involved in the production of these videos and patience family members.
Man, this is just lovely. If I had the funds I would do it with my engine aswell, but as it stands it will be a replacement engine with lower miles on it. Thanks for the in-depth explanations.
The stamped steel nuts are called "Pal Nuts" I picked up my parts for a 5.0 I was building for my mothers 89 Crown Victoria, when I started building the engine I soon found that I had 5 right bank assembled piston / rod assemblies and 3 left bank. I took one back to have it turned around and the guy said it was a good thing I spotted that. Now this wasn't the first engine I ever built and I was taught to inspect and clean everything prior to assembly. As for what would have happened if I had installed that setup, first the engine would have been hard to turn prior to torqueing that rod and most likely locked up after torqueing. The reason is because the rod bearing is set back on one side and almost flush with the other side. This is true of any "V" engine than shares rod journals for 2 rods, if the engine has a journal for each rod it wouldn't have mattered, this also holds true for any single rod journal engine. The rod doesn't care, it's the crankshaft that is different; Because the edges are not cut square, they have a filet. I used to install pistons in racing engines backwards on purpose because the wrist pin isn't actually in the center of the piston, by installing them backwards it moved the rod towards the outside of the engine slightly. While this does cause a bit more piston scuff, these engines were built to go fast, not last long. I turn the crankshaft after I torque each main and each rod, so if at any point I have a problem I know what I just did caused the problem. Another thing I always do, unless the engine uses torque to yield head bolts, is I torque the head in sequence, then break the bolts loose and torque them again. The reason I do that is to achieve a installed thickness head gasket, a "Fel Pro" head gasket installed thickness is .041" when you torque the head it compresses the gasket to that thickness, when you break the bolts loose the head gasket doesn't swell back up, it stays .041" so when I torque it the second time I achieve the torque spec on a installed thickness gasket. And I will not build any engine with McCord gaskets. This step is not needed if cometic gaskets are used. You just have to be careful with piston to valve clearance if you have surfaced the heads and use cometic gaskets.
We've all fudged an engine or two together..Well I have and most all of them ran flawlessly for years but if you've got to guarantee an engine it needs to be as correct as possible just in case the owner wants to lean on it a bit harder than normal..It should run quiet and smooth Pete...They did good work no doubt.
When it comes to a engine rebuild you get what you pay for. I have almost 8 grand in building a chevy 383 stroker between parts and machine shop service. There are a lot of mass produced rebuilt engines for sale over the internet for less than half the price of what I paid, but I guarantee the quality aint the same Great video
JOHN HUFNAGEL oh,for sure man.same here my 350 in my Silverado took my guy about a year to build but this engine takes some abuse that one of those cookie- cutter out the box ones would have problems I'm sure.old school guy Russell Strickler knows his stuff
thanks a lot I am currently doing a engine swap v6 to v8 99 mustang. I have a 95 cobra engine and wanted it machined by my local shop but didn't know what to look for. this helped a lot again thanks. I will be looking forward to you putting the engine back together video.
PAL nuts. Engineering deemed that they should be on there. So i'd put them on. You are correct. The rods and the pistons inertially participate with the crankshaft, and therefore affect the overall balance. The object in dynamic balancing is cancellation of the products of inertia in the assembly.
Great video, as usual. Fun fact: Balancing engines is actually a misnomer. The usual formula is 1x the weight of the rotating half + 1/2x the weight of the reciprocating half of the rotating assembly. Let's think about why this is, starting with the piston at TDC. At this point, rotating the assembly left or right one or two degrees, the piston doesn't really move at all because it's absorbed by the angularity. So in essence, only the rotating weight is important here. Now we turn the crankshaft 90 degrees. At this point, the piston moves effectively 1:1 with the crank pin, so the rotating weight and reciprocating weight both count their full weight. The 1+1/2 rule simply averages the reciprocating weight over the entire range of motion. This means that the real unbalance actually varies between 1/2 the reciprocating weight and -1/2 the reciprocating weight twice each rotation of the crank. What this means effectively is that you don't have to rebalance a crank when you remove a 1 gram washer because balance doesn't exist in the first place and 1 gram is nothing compared to the unbalance of the reciprocating weight. Of course, balancing more accurately doesn't hurt anything other than your wallet, so there's no non-financial reason not to do it, but at moderate engine speeds you're not really going to see any significant difference, it's just that little bit of extra quality and attention to detail you're putting in, which isn't a bad thing. The boxer engine was invented to combat this, achieving near-perfect balance due to the opposed pistons moving to counteract each others motion, though this engine obviously has its own challenges. In case you're wondering, I'm not an engine builder, but a reciprocating (piston) compressor engineer, where the same laws of physics apply. Speaking of which, compressors use entirely different kind of valves, so my knowledge on valvetrains is still lacking. Would you ever do a video on valve springs, pressures, RPM limits, pushrod flex, valve train weight, surge, vibration, etc?
Now that is really interesting, thank you very much. I have built engines and had to take them apart again, balancing the part the second time and there was a measurable difference on the dyno. I know it's small, but it contributes to bearing wear. When I get to the valve train i can do a little extra in the video...sure
Thank you so much for taking the time to explain everything, I am learning so much about rebuilding. but where's the fun in rebuilding the engine sounds like the machine shop does everything except install it. I am in the middle of rebuilding a dodge ram 4.7 right now. I am only at the beginning and trying to degrease and clean it myself. Sure is a tough job but it sure is fun at the same time. Thanks for posting
Well, you could spend the $35k to buy all the machines needed and go to school to learn how to use them, or let the machine shop do it. I' like the building part.
Loving it Pete! I have the original 289 Block, pistons, heads, etc.. for my 1967 mustang. If my father and I decide to rebuild the original, maybe beef it up some if it can take it, we know what we need to do! I'll need to find a machine shop in my area but I don't think that'll be that hard. Thanks for making the awesome vids!
Most important thing of all on an older engine, crack testing the crank before grinding has been omitted. Very little point in spending a lot of money on building a motor, if the crank is cracked and may well break after it has been ground.............................
Very easy to magnaflux things like crank and rods, and any good machine shop would have suggested this on a motor that old as a matter of course. Its unlikely the main bearing tunnel is going to be out of true, and personally I would have been more interested in having the rods carefully checked for true (if that wasnt done).
The reciprocating factor applies to how many rods hang off of the crankshaft. You have a 50 percent of factor because it is a V8. On an in line 4 or 6 cylinder they cancel each other out . And so on. ...
@@PetesGarage this really varies depending on the make IE Chevy, Ford, Chrysler. The reciprocating factor applies when figuring the mass of the bob weight. That being said, you are somewhat correct by saying you need a balance shaft. I believe you are referring to a 4.3 Chevy? They made this particular engine both ways. With or without. This changing the reciprocating factor. I believe it is 50% with the shaft, 40% without. As I mentioned this varies for each manufacturer and can range between 33% to 46%. I have been doing machine work for a little over 20 years. I really enjoy seeing video's like your, that pass this information to the younger generation. Keep up the good work!
very informative video as always :) I wish I knew better when getting my 331 machined, I didn't get any paper work with the build so im left guessing on the specs of the build.. how ever you have given me great insight. go to another machine shop and get paper work with specs and hopefully more communication. great video Pete
Well Pete, I spent a lot of time cleaning and learning about my SBC block and finally got the work estimate from my machinist. Part of the extremely high cost “more than what many youtubers” say these procedures should cost was the cost of “loose main caps” i remember them being snug and needing some tapping to put them back on? Am I getting ripped or is this a common occurrence. At this point I think I will probably end up paying them the hour of labor measuring and inspecting.
Loose main caps on sbc is quite common and extremely annoying. I come accross many every year and spend way too much of my time explaining to customers why it is a problem. I have a 390 FE I took apart yesterday with loose (walking) main caps. I have to call my client today with the report.
@@whiplashmachine !. Would very much like to make contact as need expert machinist for impending upgrade build in Socal. 2. Never heard of "walking" main caps. Are they unleashed...lol.
I am a second year apprentice from eastern Canada. I am working in a small independent shop. I am enjoying the trade and I think I made a good choice for a career. I like helping people out the most and the challenges of diagnostics and hard work. Nothing like enjoying what you do.
As usual Pete, very informative, precise and clear...I am excited now to take my engine to the machine shop with this knowledge. Btw, is it better to get new complete aluminum cylinder heads? They run around $600?
Thank you Hany, I would buy bare heads and then buy the valves and springs separate. They usually don't use the best parts when the sell complete heads.
Balancing the rotating assembly is one of the most important things you can do when rebuilding an engine yet it is often the most neglected part of most peoples rebuild. I can hear your dog snoring almost through the whole video but it is not a problem. Take care.
The machine shops around here do not give you any type of paperwork showing what the final honed bore diameter is , they are just as expensive as what you are showing here yet you have no way of knowing what they did unless you have all the measuring tools to double check afterwards . I need a machine shop like you have near me !
+TxStang Craig Voisin Sometimes you have to politely and gently train machine shops and suppliers to give you want you want and need from them. Communications is key and sometimes it is as easy as just asking, sometimes you may have to give them a written detailed list of what you want, with respect of course.
Sometimes it's because they are old grouches set in their ways and could care less about doing a quality job . Farm tractor engines aren't that picky and around here that is what they mostly work on
those are considered welch plugs. they are slightly convex discs that just set in the hole. then they are slightly flattened witch expands the O.D. of the disc sealing it in the hole
Great series but one question regarding having the cylinder heads machined, back then when the engine was new leaded gasoline was common and the lead was necessary for proper seating of valves. Did your machine shop make any adjustments to allow use of unleaded gasoline in the Studebaker? Also the octane rating was higher back then given the compression ratio of the engine.
The main purpose of the lead back then was for lubrication, and I did have to change the seats, you are correct. The biggest change is for the 10% ethanol in gas now. That is rough on carbs. It was tuned for 91 octane fuel so as long as it's filled with that it will be no problem.
I want to reman my 3.7 i5 GM Atlas, what is the best piston valve camshaft I can install. What other mechanical parts should I replace. Also can gas mileage be improved on a engine. What are the best type of seals and gaskets besides the AC Delco. Teflon main seal I'm told. Is there a better rubber seal on the market.
Big end of the rod is rotating weight, Not reciprocating. big end and the bearing are the rotating weight. small end ,piston, pin and rings and pin locks if used are the reciprocating weight. 100% rotating weight and 50% reciprocating weight makes the total of the bob-weights to balance a crank.
For me, this is an outrageous amount of money considering the cost of a fully rebuilt motor.. I have a great guy at OK machine shop in El Paso. He says, "just buy new ones, it's cheaper and better"....!
Your machinist must hate money. Also the reman engine industry build the motors with the cheapest parts and as quick as possible. There’s very little quality control. Unlike a machine shop where time,effort,care goes into the build.
Machine work, or maybe I should say good machine work, is expensive these days. My 350 block was 550$ for hot tank, bore/hone, deck, new cam bearing, and freeze plugs. But honestly I can't see paying $2000 for a stock long block when I can spend the same money and get way more power, along with the same longevity. I know not everybody can do that. But besides that I love doing it!
What will be you second option? I couldn't understood what you meant getting more power with the same longevity doing something different, can u explain please?
What I mean is using better or more performance oriented parts that a stock long reman longblock. So I'm using flat top pistons which will up the compression a small amount. I'll be using a bigger cam which will increase efficiency and power. I'll be using aluminum heads which will flow way better than the stock tbi heads. Those are junk by the way. So a motor I build will be tons more efficient and make quite a bit more power. I would expect to be in the 300 to 350 neighborhood vs a stock replacement tbi motor for my truck was 190hp from the factory.
And I should also note all this will happen for around the 2000$ mark which is approximately the price i was quoted from the local parts store for said reman longblock.
@@jasonsimmons6684 I I see what you saying now... I think I saw a video explaining something like that... Going from a 5.7 to 6.0 in the same 350... I was thinking the same when I was watching this video but I didn't put two in two together... Yes that will be the best way to go!
Thanks.Great videos. If you were not a purist,wouldn't it be cheaper to replace the Studebaker Engine with a small block rebuilt or crate Chevy V8 Engine? Just asking.
Well, not really. It would probably be the same, if not more because the bellhousing and transmission probably would not fit. It really is not that expensive.
hey pete! love your videos! im in the process of planning my 383 stroker build. I was wondering, how do I match cam, and heads, to the rotating assembly, to insure valves don't smack pistons? I understand I have to clay the pistons and check the valve clearance, but how do I do it on paper before I buy too long of duration/too high lift for the heads or pistons I was wanting to use?
When you buy a cam for an engine, unless you are going for something wild with domed pistons, the cam usually will be fine. But you can call the cam manufacturers tech line and ask them, they get specific questions all the time.
@@PetesGarage Besides lift and piston configuration alterations (past or future) be very careful about how much material has been or will need to be removed from the heads and block deck mating surfaces. Some engines are prone to head warpage requiring perhaps past grinding, for instance. For some builds thicker head gaskets are called for especially where heads are rare due to limited production (as with my 1750 '69 Alfa which has inherent heads gasket sealing problems from the get go).
Having a block bored is a risky job. You can over-bore it and it will become weak. This block is very beefy and I would say it could be bored out quite a bit. Sleeves can work, but I prefer not to if possible.
grn dragon; you can always install a dry repair sleeve in a cylinder that has to much wear or is cracked. Bore it out press in the repair sleeve and then bore the repair sleeve to the desired size. Have done this many times to reclaim a block that is hard to find or if you absolutely want to stay with the original.
900+hp is far past what the 2.3L is capable of. I would suggest putting money into an engine that is capable of that power level with turbo's like a coyote, 4.6 or 5.4 modular, LS swap, ect... Even the small block or big block ford isn't reliable at that power level without an aftermarket block and lots of other high end parts.
Hey Pete, can I get your opinion of bearing sizes? I am still building a bbc 496 that will see street/strip duty. On the main bearings my guidance is telling me that the proper main bearing clearances should be between .0025-.0033. I have set my bearings up and measured the clearances and came up with clearances of .0034-.0031 which I think is acceptable. In my view I'd rather have them on the big side than the small side(.0025 being the tight side,). I am already using a mix of 001 and std bearings. what do you think?
@@PetesGarage Thanks a lot sir. Should i masking an engine before vapor blasting becuse vapor blasting change the polished gasket area into satin bright finish. Which media is better to clean engine. Glass beads or sodium bicarbonate.
@@PetesGarage I was doing ultrasonic cleaning carburettors and small bike parts. Now i am going to tie up with auto mechanics thay overhaul an engine. I am going to do vapor honing for them. Its a job work
A 25 minute HD video is about 2.3 gigs in size. I start uploading it during the day and when it finished it automatically publishes. I was in a deep sleep when it actually became available
Hahah, was just watching this again. Just realised the pug with a snore that strong must be running a solid with at least 280deg @ .550. Gold. Fords and pugs. What's not to like...........
Sounds like the price is steadily adding up. Looking like a crate engine would be the better option. You can start out with a crate engine for around $ 1200.
i have no clue ive never worked on these engines but for the pins on the deck can you not use a slide hammer on them? the pins might not be threaded but there was a tool i used which is a slide hammer threaded into the bolt hole of a slide hammer
Not all engines have symmetrical piston design. Some are more wide one way than the other by design. If you bore it out evenly all the way around your stock pistons will NOT work properly even with knurled pistons/bigger compression rings. Fair warning ahead of time if you do DIY engine builds. You'll shred those puppys within seconds if you're not careful.
wrong! that bore had better be round or you are sure to have problems. Slipper skirt pistons are designed with a taper for heat expansion while maintaining a closer tolerance between piston skirt and cylinder. Full round pistons require a larger clearance.
you didnt mention anything about piston rings .Do they need to be resized to or are you putting dissusion off til next video. Also i think its hillarious to hear your dog snorring at the end of the video.
Love the dog snoring! Pete, you're a great teacher on engines, thanks.
That old engine looks brute strong! Excellent video! Thanks!
It's a monster
I love that you have a recliner in your shop!
A? I have 2 in case someone stops by for a beer!
Thanks Pete! Thanks to you I just tore down my first engine (273 Commando) and am bringing it to to the machine shop tomorrow. Just watching this video again for pointers.
That's awesome...good luck
Pete veary well said you made it clear about costs and machine work that's allways been a grey area with me.🔔🔔🔔.
Thank you Curtis
Great video. Lots of useful info. A good machine shop like yours is hard to find. I have had three good shops fall by the wayside when the second generation of the family take over the business. No customer service or customer interaction. Lots of goodwill and hospitality out the window. Thank you.
It is very hard to find. There are two in my area but I work closely with one. He is getting ready to retire and it will kill me to lose such a wealth of knowledge.
Your videos are incredibly detailed and inspiring. Last week I bought an engine stand and hoist. Im gathering all the tools needed and within the next 2 years I will be buying a late 60' to early 70' f100 and doing my first rebuild. Your videos let me know that I can do this! Thanks A Ton
You can do it Sean! I try to help as much as possible.
Nice work on that engine. Those pieces look straight off of a 1950s drawing board.
Very forgiving design.
Thank you....it was a fun one to build
Extremely informative. Now i know exactly what i need my machine shop to do along side learning myself machine work
Awesome! Good luck with yours
Happy New Year, The Studebaker 289 a family heirloom or a dream car for the owner. Thanks to all of you involved in the production of these videos and patience family members.
Thank you Johnathan. It has been a dream car for the owner for many years. He has owned it for the last 8 years
Man, this is just lovely. If I had the funds I would do it with my engine aswell, but as it stands it will be a replacement engine with lower miles on it.
Thanks for the in-depth explanations.
Thanks Mick...whatever it takes to get it done
Thank you for the information , I really like the attention to detail you have with your projects and your teaching again thank you.
Thank you very much Nancy
Great video Pete, can't wait to see the assembly. :)
I'm working on the video
Great video, very informative
Cant wait to see it come together!
I'm working on it
Excellent video and the snoring pug gets many extra points.
She's the star
Very good video, thank you..
Thanks my friend
Wow. This is really helpful for my Camaro motor project that I'm working on. Thank you for laying it all out.
Awesome! Great project car
The stamped steel nuts are called "Pal Nuts"
I picked up my parts for a 5.0 I was building for my mothers 89 Crown Victoria, when I started building the engine I soon found that I had 5 right bank assembled piston / rod assemblies and 3 left bank. I took one back to have it turned around and the guy said it was a good thing I spotted that. Now this wasn't the first engine I ever built and I was taught to inspect and clean everything prior to assembly. As for what would have happened if I had installed that setup, first the engine would have been hard to turn prior to torqueing that rod and most likely locked up after torqueing. The reason is because the rod bearing is set back on one side and almost flush with the other side. This is true of any "V" engine than shares rod journals for 2 rods, if the engine has a journal for each rod it wouldn't have mattered, this also holds true for any single rod journal engine. The rod doesn't care, it's the crankshaft that is different; Because the edges are not cut square, they have a filet. I used to install pistons in racing engines backwards on purpose because the wrist pin isn't actually in the center of the piston, by installing them backwards it moved the rod towards the outside of the engine slightly. While this does cause a bit more piston scuff, these engines were built to go fast, not last long.
I turn the crankshaft after I torque each main and each rod, so if at any point I have a problem I know what I just did caused the problem.
Another thing I always do, unless the engine uses torque to yield head bolts, is I torque the head in sequence, then break the bolts loose and torque them again. The reason I do that is to achieve a installed thickness head gasket, a "Fel Pro" head gasket installed thickness is .041" when you torque the head it compresses the gasket to that thickness, when you break the bolts loose the head gasket doesn't swell back up, it stays .041" so when I torque it the second time I achieve the torque spec on a installed thickness gasket. And I will not build any engine with McCord gaskets. This step is not needed if cometic gaskets are used. You just have to be careful with piston to valve clearance if you have surfaced the heads and use cometic gaskets.
Interesting stuff, thank you taking the time to write that.
Dang do what do you do for leaving?
Very interesting video, happy new year Pete. Great guard dog! Very funny.
Happy new year Bruce... she is the star of the show.
We've all fudged an engine or two together..Well I have and most all of them ran flawlessly for years but if you've got to guarantee an engine it needs to be as correct as possible just in case the owner wants to lean on it a bit harder than normal..It should run quiet and smooth Pete...They did good work no doubt.
Hello Pete, thanks for your wisdom. Big fan, keep building.
Thank you my friend
great vid, shedding some light on a future project
it's all about helping each other
When it comes to a engine rebuild you get what you pay for. I have almost 8 grand in building a chevy 383 stroker between parts and machine shop service. There are a lot of mass produced rebuilt engines for sale over the internet for less than half the price of what I paid, but I guarantee the quality aint the same
Great video
Absolutely! you are doing the right thing
JOHN HUFNAGEL oh,for sure man.same here my 350 in my Silverado took my guy about a year to build but this engine takes some abuse that one of those cookie- cutter out the box ones would have problems I'm sure.old school guy Russell Strickler knows his stuff
I love your videos..! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge, I'm learing alot from these vids. Keep it up!
Great information so thanks for posting. I can relate to that last two minutes of your video with respect to communications with the shop.
Thanks for the video.Very informative.
Thanks Ron
thanks a lot I am currently doing a engine swap v6 to v8 99 mustang. I have a 95 cobra engine and wanted it machined by my local shop but didn't know what to look for. this helped a lot again thanks. I will be looking forward to you putting the engine back together video.
Thank you my friend. i will be making videos on the assembly and installation....all the up to the road test and break in.
very knowledgeable man you are, thanks for this
Thanks for watcihng
Thank you for your great video , it’s very helpful .
You are welcome!
Another great video.
Thanks John!
Another great video. Thanks for your channel.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video Pete very informative. Thanks buddy Artie 😊
No problem 👍
Nice machine work. Money well spent!
they always do a great job.
PAL nuts. Engineering deemed that they should be on there. So i'd put them on. You are correct. The rods and the pistons inertially participate with the crankshaft, and therefore affect the overall balance. The object in dynamic balancing is cancellation of the products of inertia in the assembly.
I agree with you. thank you for the comment
At the end of the video i was like what the f is that noise is thar an alarm? Its the snoring dog.😂
Great video, as usual.
Fun fact: Balancing engines is actually a misnomer. The usual formula is 1x the weight of the rotating half + 1/2x the weight of the reciprocating half of the rotating assembly. Let's think about why this is, starting with the piston at TDC. At this point, rotating the assembly left or right one or two degrees, the piston doesn't really move at all because it's absorbed by the angularity. So in essence, only the rotating weight is important here. Now we turn the crankshaft 90 degrees. At this point, the piston moves effectively 1:1 with the crank pin, so the rotating weight and reciprocating weight both count their full weight. The 1+1/2 rule simply averages the reciprocating weight over the entire range of motion. This means that the real unbalance actually varies between 1/2 the reciprocating weight and -1/2 the reciprocating weight twice each rotation of the crank. What this means effectively is that you don't have to rebalance a crank when you remove a 1 gram washer because balance doesn't exist in the first place and 1 gram is nothing compared to the unbalance of the reciprocating weight. Of course, balancing more accurately doesn't hurt anything other than your wallet, so there's no non-financial reason not to do it, but at moderate engine speeds you're not really going to see any significant difference, it's just that little bit of extra quality and attention to detail you're putting in, which isn't a bad thing. The boxer engine was invented to combat this, achieving near-perfect balance due to the opposed pistons moving to counteract each others motion, though this engine obviously has its own challenges.
In case you're wondering, I'm not an engine builder, but a reciprocating (piston) compressor engineer, where the same laws of physics apply.
Speaking of which, compressors use entirely different kind of valves, so my knowledge on valvetrains is still lacking. Would you ever do a video on valve springs, pressures, RPM limits, pushrod flex, valve train weight, surge, vibration, etc?
Now that is really interesting, thank you very much. I have built engines and had to take them apart again, balancing the part the second time and there was a measurable difference on the dyno. I know it's small, but it contributes to bearing wear. When I get to the valve train i can do a little extra in the video...sure
Thank you so much for taking the time to explain everything, I am learning so much about rebuilding. but where's the fun in rebuilding the engine sounds like the machine shop does everything except install it. I am in the middle of rebuilding a dodge ram 4.7 right now. I am only at the beginning and trying to degrease and clean it myself. Sure is a tough job but it sure is fun at the same time. Thanks for posting
Well, you could spend the $35k to buy all the machines needed and go to school to learn how to use them, or let the machine shop do it. I' like the building part.
Agreee
thanks for info
great video ,love your videos ,keep up the good work
Thank you my friend, I'm trying
Loving it Pete! I have the original 289 Block, pistons, heads, etc.. for my 1967 mustang. If my father and I decide to rebuild the original, maybe beef it up some if it can take it, we know what we need to do! I'll need to find a machine shop in my area but I don't think that'll be that hard. Thanks for making the awesome vids!
Good luck Jake
Nice!!
Most important thing of all on an older engine, crack testing the crank before grinding has been omitted. Very little point in spending a lot of money on building a motor, if the crank is cracked and may well break after it has been ground.............................
Very good point
Very easy to magnaflux things like crank and rods, and any good machine shop would have suggested this on a motor that old as a matter of course. Its unlikely the main bearing tunnel is going to be out of true, and personally I would have been more interested in having the rods carefully checked for true (if that wasnt done).
The rods were check for true and length. That is a very important step
Great Video!
Thanks my friend
The reciprocating factor applies to how many rods hang off of the crankshaft. You have a 50 percent of factor because it is a V8. On an in line 4 or 6 cylinder they cancel each other out . And so on. ...
That is only one an inline. A V6 is out of balance and requires a balance shaft to be added.
@@PetesGarage this really varies depending on the make IE Chevy, Ford, Chrysler. The reciprocating factor applies when figuring the mass of the bob weight. That being said, you are somewhat correct by saying you need a balance shaft. I believe you are referring to a 4.3 Chevy? They made this particular engine both ways. With or without. This changing the reciprocating factor. I believe it is 50% with the shaft, 40% without. As I mentioned this varies for each manufacturer and can range between 33% to 46%. I have been doing machine work for a little over 20 years. I really enjoy seeing video's like your, that pass this information to the younger generation. Keep up the good work!
perfect! i wish i could send my engine to you to rebuild
That can be done
very informative video as always :) I wish I knew better when getting my 331 machined, I didn't get any paper work with the build so im left guessing on the specs of the build.. how ever you have given me great insight. go to another machine shop and get paper work with specs and hopefully more communication. great video Pete
Thanks David. Not having the specs won't prevent you from building a good engine, it just helps to build a great one.
Eres la mera paipa Pete!
Gracias mi amigo
Good stuff pete!
Thanks Tom....did you get you issue resolved?
Petes Garage yep, 3/4 turn preload quieted things down a lot, think what is left is just normal roller rocker noise
I knew it....so glad that helped
Well Pete, I spent a lot of time cleaning and learning about my SBC block and finally got the work estimate from my machinist. Part of the extremely high cost “more than what many youtubers” say these procedures should cost was the cost of “loose main caps” i remember them being snug and needing some tapping to put them back on? Am I getting ripped or is this a common occurrence. At this point I think I will probably end up paying them the hour of labor measuring and inspecting.
Loose mains does sound a bit fishy, but not impossible
Loose main caps on sbc is quite common and extremely annoying. I come accross many every year and spend way too much of my time explaining to customers why it is a problem. I have a 390 FE I took apart yesterday with loose (walking) main caps. I have to call my client today with the report.
@@whiplashmachine !. Would very much like to make contact as need expert machinist for impending upgrade build in Socal. 2. Never heard of "walking" main caps. Are they unleashed...lol.
love your vids. thanks
Thank you my friend
I am a second year apprentice from eastern Canada. I am working in a small independent shop. I am enjoying the trade and I think I made a good choice for a career. I like helping people out the most and the challenges of diagnostics and hard work. Nothing like enjoying what you do.
That is really awesome! Good for you and keep learning
Cool video. GO SABRES!!
I've been waiting since 1970 for a cup!
As usual Pete, very informative, precise and clear...I am excited now to take my engine to the machine shop with this knowledge. Btw, is it better to get new complete aluminum cylinder heads? They run around $600?
Thank you Hany, I would buy bare heads and then buy the valves and springs separate. They usually don't use the best parts when the sell complete heads.
Got it, you are the man!
Thanks. taking in my 232 6 cyl in for a completet rebuild for my 1965 Rambler AMERICAN 440 Convertible>
That sounds cool
i got charged $800 for machining and parts. ford 3.3L 200ci i6. bout 5 years ago. engine is running great.
I can find someone to do it cheap to, but good isn't always cheap. All shops and projects are different
***** yeah, I know, Different situations. You got lots of details in yours. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for video
Thanks Peter
When you take 30 thousands off do you get past the heat treated surface? I am not a fan of having much taken off the crank unless it is heat treated.
Heat treating is different than case hardening. Cutting it down does not go through the heat treat
Balancing the rotating assembly is one of the most important things you can do when rebuilding an engine yet it is often the most neglected part of most peoples rebuild. I can hear your dog snoring almost through the whole video but it is not a problem. Take care.
I agree, thanks David
Damn nice viedo.
Thanks Frank
The machine shops around here do not give you any type of paperwork showing what the final honed bore diameter is , they are just as expensive as what you are showing here yet you have no way of knowing what they did unless you have all the measuring tools to double check afterwards . I need a machine shop like you have near me !
That's why I say it's a partnership. Tell them what you expect them to provide, you are the customer.
+TxStang Craig Voisin
Sometimes you have to politely and gently train machine shops and suppliers to give you want you want and need from them.
Communications is key and sometimes it is as easy as just asking, sometimes you may have to give them a written detailed list of what you want, with respect of course.
Sometimes it's because they are old grouches set in their ways and could care less about doing a quality job . Farm tractor engines aren't that picky and around here that is what they mostly work on
+TxStang Craig Voisin
Unfortunately if you cannot get what you want locally you may have to travel to get what you want.
Very true Pat
Thumbs up for the snoring dog😂
Best dog ever
I thought the pistons and valves were new. Explain what is new on the block remanufacture ? What type of piston and valve did you install ?
Pistons are new, exhaust valves and seats are new, the block has new freeze plugs. I was a stock, replacement piston
Looks better than new
Runs better than new as well
Never seen anyone install "freeze" plugs backwards before.
those are considered welch plugs. they are slightly convex discs that just set in the hole. then they are slightly flattened witch expands the O.D. of the disc sealing it in the hole
Thanks Luke. They do look backwards, but they're right for '62
Great series but one question regarding having the cylinder heads machined, back then when the engine was new leaded gasoline was common and the lead was necessary for proper seating of valves. Did your machine shop make any adjustments to allow use of unleaded gasoline in the Studebaker? Also the octane rating was higher back then given the compression ratio of the engine.
The main purpose of the lead back then was for lubrication, and I did have to change the seats, you are correct. The biggest change is for the 10% ethanol in gas now. That is rough on carbs. It was tuned for 91 octane fuel so as long as it's filled with that it will be no problem.
Very informative. I always enjoy your videos, however, what would be your advice on finding a good machine shop?
Visit car shows and cruise nights and ask guys who they use. If you ask enough people a couple names will start to stick out.
@@PetesGarage Yes, both good and bad!
how did you learn all of this???? incredible...
Many years of working on engines
Ford had a 289 V-8 . Any relationship to the Studebaker 289 ?
Thanks , :-)
Wyr
God bless
There is no similarity. I have build both and the Studebaker is more similar to a Chrysler.
Ford is a shorter stroke than the studebaker
Is that your dog snoring at the end? Too funny! The deck pins are called hollow dowels (FWIW)
Yeah, that is her.... sad to say she passed a few weeks ago. Thanks for the comment
I'm heartbroken....that is a cute dog!
Hey Pete, where did you get the valves, springs and pistons? You might check into a CPAP for the pup.
The springs came from Fairborn Studebaker, valves and pistons were stock size so my machine shop guy got them. The pistons are forged Icon.
She snores when she's awake too...lol
I want to reman my 3.7 i5 GM Atlas, what is the best piston valve camshaft I can install. What other mechanical parts should I replace. Also can gas mileage be improved on a engine. What are the best type of seals and gaskets besides the AC Delco. Teflon main seal I'm told. Is there a better rubber seal on the market.
Those are some detailed questions to answer in a comment. Lots more detail is needed to answer properly.
Big end of the rod is rotating weight, Not reciprocating. big end and the bearing are the rotating weight. small end ,piston, pin and rings and pin locks if used are the reciprocating weight. 100% rotating weight and 50% reciprocating weight makes the total of the bob-weights to balance a crank.
Awesome! Thanks for that comment Rick.
If you pull out those pins from the engine block, would it not be feasible to make new ones on a lathe, assuming you have a lathe?
Sure, I can make anything, it's just a cost for the time thing. Machine work gets expensive, like $100 for a normal $1.50 pin
I have rebuilt many engines that lasted or out lasted the life of the automobile with a whole lot less dollars!
So have I
For me, this is an outrageous amount of money considering the cost of a fully rebuilt motor..
I have a great guy at OK machine shop in El Paso.
He says, "just buy new ones, it's cheaper and better"....!
Not a '62 Studebaker engine, a standard Ford or Chevy, sure.
Also, when you have a collectible car serial numbers matching can count.
Your machinist must hate money. Also the reman engine industry build the motors with the cheapest parts and as quick as possible. There’s very little quality control. Unlike a machine shop where time,effort,care goes into the build.
Machine work, or maybe I should say good machine work, is expensive these days. My 350 block was 550$ for hot tank, bore/hone, deck, new cam bearing, and freeze plugs. But honestly I can't see paying $2000 for a stock long block when I can spend the same money and get way more power, along with the same longevity. I know not everybody can do that. But besides that I love doing it!
It's always better to build your own, I agree
What will be you second option? I couldn't understood what you meant getting more power with the same longevity doing something different, can u explain please?
What I mean is using better or more performance oriented parts that a stock long reman longblock. So I'm using flat top pistons which will up the compression a small amount. I'll be using a bigger cam which will increase efficiency and power. I'll be using aluminum heads which will flow way better than the stock tbi heads. Those are junk by the way. So a motor I build will be tons more efficient and make quite a bit more power. I would expect to be in the 300 to 350 neighborhood vs a stock replacement tbi motor for my truck was 190hp from the factory.
And I should also note all this will happen for around the 2000$ mark which is approximately the price i was quoted from the local parts store for said reman longblock.
@@jasonsimmons6684 I I see what you saying now... I think I saw a video explaining something like that... Going from a 5.7 to 6.0 in the same 350... I was thinking the same when I was watching this video but I didn't put two in two together... Yes that will be the best way to go!
14:05 the best part of this video😂
She was funny, I miss her a lot
Thanks.Great videos. If you were not a purist,wouldn't it be cheaper to replace the Studebaker Engine with a small block rebuilt or crate Chevy V8 Engine? Just asking.
Well, not really. It would probably be the same, if not more because the bellhousing and transmission probably would not fit. It really is not that expensive.
A question what about getting new crate motor would that just be cheaper
Might be, then it's not the original engine
If your not worried about Original engine or parts wouldn't buying a crate engine cheaper...especially for a gen 1 SBC 350?
Gotta maintain that original Studebaker engine
could you do a series on a Ford 400 motor one of these days
As soon as I get one, sure
What's your saying haven't done is 240 V bucks I pay about 900 to $1,200 to have done huge difference
I don't understand
hey pete! love your videos! im in the process of planning my 383 stroker build. I was wondering, how do I match cam, and heads, to the rotating assembly, to insure valves don't smack pistons? I understand I have to clay the pistons and check the valve clearance, but how do I do it on paper before I buy too long of duration/too high lift for the heads or pistons I was wanting to use?
When you buy a cam for an engine, unless you are going for something wild with domed pistons, the cam usually will be fine. But you can call the cam manufacturers tech line and ask them, they get specific questions all the time.
@@PetesGarage Besides lift and piston configuration alterations (past or future) be very careful about how much material has been or will need to be removed from the heads and block deck mating surfaces. Some engines are prone to head warpage requiring perhaps past grinding, for instance. For some builds thicker head gaskets are called for especially where heads are rare due to limited production (as with my 1750 '69 Alfa which has inherent heads gasket sealing problems from the get go).
Pete, with a block as that is like the Studebaker. Would you have wet sleaves put in if the block can no longer be board over?
Having a block bored is a risky job. You can over-bore it and it will become weak. This block is very beefy and I would say it could be bored out quite a bit. Sleeves can work, but I prefer not to if possible.
I ask because factory specs says not to go over 0.030 over, it is now at 0.085. Sonic test says there is nothing left in the cylinders to bore,
Yeah...that becomes a real issue
grn dragon; you can always install a dry repair sleeve in a cylinder that has to much wear or is cracked. Bore it out press in the repair sleeve and then bore the repair sleeve to the desired size. Have done this many times to reclaim a block that is hard to find or if you absolutely want to stay with the original.
Machine work in your part of the country sure is awful pricey compared to my area
It really is not too expensive, just depends on the amount of work you have done.
Dang, machine work sure is cheap in your part of the country compared to my part of the country (SoCal).
Would you recommend I take my stock 2.3L mustang engine and take it to the machine shop or purchase a long block? I’m looking to reach 900-1400hp
That is a lot of HP for a 2.3. You'll need someone to build it right.
900+hp is far past what the 2.3L is capable of. I would suggest putting money into an engine that is capable of that power level with turbo's like a coyote, 4.6 or 5.4 modular, LS swap, ect... Even the small block or big block ford isn't reliable at that power level without an aftermarket block and lots of other high end parts.
Hey Pete, can I get your opinion of bearing sizes?
I am still building a bbc 496 that will see street/strip duty. On the main bearings my guidance is telling me that the proper main bearing clearances should be between .0025-.0033. I have set my bearings up and measured the clearances and came up with clearances of .0034-.0031 which I think is acceptable. In my view I'd rather have them on the big side than the small side(.0025 being the tight side,). I am already using a mix of 001 and std bearings. what do you think?
Well....I think you will get away with it, but watch the oil pressure.
Shelby is on it!
She past on last summer sorry to say
I feel you brother, I had a Pug pass last year too, Chloe, she was 14, great friend to me.
When should i vapor blasting an engine parts before or after machining means lathe work
Before
@@PetesGarage Thanks a lot sir. Should i masking an engine before vapor blasting becuse vapor blasting change the polished gasket area into satin bright finish. Which media is better to clean engine. Glass beads or sodium bicarbonate.
Why are you vapor blasting?
@@PetesGarage I was doing ultrasonic cleaning carburettors and small bike parts. Now i am going to tie up with auto mechanics thay overhaul an engine. I am going to do vapor honing for them. Its a job work
Do the vapor honing after the machine work. Glass beads are ok.
either you were up early or you just getting to bed.
A 25 minute HD video is about 2.3 gigs in size. I start uploading it during the day and when it finished it automatically publishes. I was in a deep sleep when it actually became available
Petes Garage Great video. Looks great!
Does this design of piston pin not need keepers for the pin?
No, the wrist/gudgeon pin is retained by friction and clamping force of the tapered stud and nut.
Excellent! Thanks pat!
+Petes Garage
Thanks and you are welcome.
Hahah, was just watching this again. Just realised the pug with a snore that strong must be running a solid with at least 280deg @ .550. Gold. Fords and pugs. What's not to like...........
At 50 she's like 265
She cams pretty good if she is laying right.
can you paint over castblast or do you take it off then paint.
Yes. The cast blast goes right on the bare iron and acts like a primer. I have never had a problem painting over it.
Sounds like the price is steadily adding up. Looking like a crate engine would be the better option. You can start out with a crate engine for around $ 1200.
Unless you want the original engine back in the car.
Y not go with flat tops? I never seen someone spend so much money on 160 hp, and u had to squeeze that out of it.
It's what the customer wanted
i have no clue ive never worked on these engines but for the pins on the deck can you not use a slide hammer on them? the pins might not be threaded but there was a tool i used which is a slide hammer threaded into the bolt hole of a slide hammer
I'm not saying they cannot be taken out, just that if they are stuck in there it's best to leave them alone because they are not easy to find.
Petes Garage What i was asking is would using a slide hammer keep you from destroying the pins just making a sugestion, anyway thanks for the reply
It's a great suggestion, thank you
It would work
Did this engine come out of a Avanti?
This is out of a 1962 Hawk
Not all engines have symmetrical piston design. Some are more wide one way than the other by design. If you bore it out evenly all the way around your stock pistons will NOT work properly even with knurled pistons/bigger compression rings. Fair warning ahead of time if you do DIY engine builds. You'll shred those puppys within seconds if you're not careful.
Pistons will even expand different when heated
wrong! that bore had better be round or you are sure to have problems. Slipper skirt pistons are designed with a taper for heat expansion while maintaining a closer tolerance between piston skirt and cylinder. Full round pistons require a larger clearance.
you didnt mention anything about piston rings .Do they need to be resized to or are you putting dissusion off til next video. Also i think its hillarious to hear your dog snorring at the end of the video.
I will be covering gaping rings when I build the engine. Also the difference between iron and chrome moly rings.
Is your machine shop J&L in State College?
No, Lancaster NY
Do you work on imports?
Occasionally. It depends on the situation