That floor looks so factory wow. Nice. It’s been a while but In the 80’s when I was active in the Porsche restoration we would use a yellowish rocker shutz think from wurth or 3m using a splatter gun we would just blast it would leave a rubberized coating sort of like the newer Porsches would use , the yellowish rubberized coating would be lightly painted that was it, Anyway I’m watching your videos because I’m about to restore a 1966 sr coupe 912 slate gray this fall not to the concours level you do but some welding in pan up front here and there If your ever in Maryland with your 911 , stop by !
Thanks ocella, I did use some of the 3M under the hood for texture before painting..Turned out nice and looks factory. Thank for the invitation! If im ever in Maryland I will certainly give you a shout! Best of luck with your restoration work and if there is anything you might need help with just drop me a line www.mikesrestorations.com Cheers!
Hi Patric Thanks! Trying my best to bring out the hidden details of this car The German craftsmanship is really quite amazing Those guys were masters! Good Luck also with the salt protection on your 996! Please be sure to keep us up on how you treat the bottom side
Just working my way around the car identifying the areas that need attention. I have been side tracked because I decided to sort some of the mechanical issues as I go. Also, it is summer here and we have experienced some extremely hot weather (even for sub-tropical Sydney) which makes it hard to go all day, so progress is slower than I expected.
Brett Shields Thats a good way to go Brett I usually take up to one year before starting in seriously..sorting things out while its still running is a sure way for success. Its a great way to try out some things before getting in deep=) Lots of Luck!
Hello Drive For the most part it was all dry scraped..a few areas were coated with paint stripper but over all pretty easy to scrape Porsche used an asphalt based undercoating and it just dried out too quickly and lost its adhesion. Thats why these early cars are so prone to rust. The water would get behind the loose undercoat and be trapped in there.
Hi Mike, I can't find the video where you talked about what you did on the interior. Did you por 15 the entire interior? I'm getting very close to primer, undercoating, and Por15. Trying to figure out the best way to go about everything. I'm actually thinking about Por15 in engine bay, underside/pan, wheel wells, and interior. Then undercoating in engine bay, way wells, and pan. Partial undercoating in trunk. My trunk area is a bit rough and I may apply some body filler and smooth out some areas. To be honest, I would like to do the trunk in Por15. Thanks for any feedback. Rodney
Hello Rodney Unfortunately I didn't do any video work on POR 15 in the interior. The interior was painted with it but the dashboard upper and lower/ was sprayed out first with a 2k Matte finish. POR 15 makes a great primer sealer but if you will be painting or undercoating over the top of it it will need to be sanded first. Its very tough to sanding as it is extremely hard! I hope this helps Good Luck!
Just found your channel today. Great work Mike. The original undercoat was applied with a Schutz gun, which kind of splatters the coating. The folks on the Pelican Part's seem to think Wurth from the bottle is the closest to the original factory coat when applied with a Schutz. Keep up the good work.
Hi Patric Thanks! and welcome to the channel This is really good information to share Would be nice to see some samples of that actual product and process side by side with some original undercoating. Original is definitely irregular in its application and medium to small grain.. Can't imagine the Wurth getting there but then maybe=)
Hello gtbarnes Yes the seam sealer used on this project was made by SEM 29392. A fantastic product and paintable. I recommend using on several applications throughout the series Unfortunately my early videos were not put together very well or very thorough . Making videos is not my specialty. Over the years viewer engagement, questions, comments and requests have help shape the videos to be more complete and detailed. I try my best to include as much information as possible but sometimes miss some basic things.
Hello Ti Fluid film is sprayed onto the bottom side of the car to act as a barrier or film substance between the water/salt and the under components of the car. Its excellent for cars that are driven in touch weather conditions.
Thanks very much for the salt advice Mike. Much appreciated. I have been using light, local wire brushing to remove the surface corrosion, powerwashing, drying and then spraying on Corrosion Block. www.acf-50.co.uk/corrosion_block.htm This has the advantages that it can be quite crudely applied (masking only brakes and tyres) and does not interfere with future maintenance (as various heavy underbody coatings can). Time will tell how good this approach actually is. Two concerns are the exhaust manifold brackets are now pretty crusty and nobody seems keen to help me remove all those bolts before they become domes! It would also be great if Corrosion Block underwent a colour change...any surface rust, although pacified, stays looking like darker rust. I'm still searching for someone in the UK with your attention to detail ;)
Sure thing Patric! I hope can be of some help It looks like your are on the same track with the corrosion block.. Interesting thing about these old cars and even the ones rusted away is that the only surviving parts in perfect condition are the ones coated with leaking engine oil or leaking seals. Keeps everything preserved perfectly!
My father used to get into trouble with the road safety authorities here, because he always coated the underside of his cars with old engine oil -so thick that they couldn't assess whether any structural rust had set in. It hadn't of course because he'd stopped it ;) In other news, I read the tech spec of the Loctite Extend product you mentioned (called 7500 SF in the UK). Something to bear in mind is that they state "Caution: The product may cause rust if applied to a non-rusted surface." How annoying is that?
Your Dad is a smart guy! Engine oil would be the best way..maybe a little smelly but sure would protect You are right on the rust converter. All converters that I am familiar with will cause rust on clean bare metal..strange chemistry going on there. I actually did some testing on that stuff before using in the fender areas of the Porsche. I tried an expensive SEM brand about $80.00 USD per quart and the loctite about $6:00 USD per can. The loctite actually applied better and had better results.. amazing..Lots of brands out there but I think all of them will work in the same manner. Maybe coating your car with some thin 20/50w? or even some synthetic oil.. might do the job? could try a test area for one season and then power wash it off to see how it did=)
I should have known that you'd have done your own tests! The corrosion block forms a nice thin film of clear oil which seeps everywhere but does not loosen fixtures...I'll probably stay with that.
That floor looks so factory wow. Nice. It’s been a while but In the 80’s when I was active in the Porsche restoration we would use a yellowish rocker shutz think from wurth or 3m using a splatter gun we would just blast it would leave a rubberized coating sort of like the newer Porsches would use , the yellowish rubberized coating would be lightly painted that was it, Anyway I’m watching your videos because I’m about to restore a 1966 sr coupe 912 slate gray this fall not to the concours level you do but some welding in pan up front here and there If your ever in Maryland with your 911 , stop by !
Thanks ocella, I did use some of the 3M under the hood for texture before painting..Turned out nice and looks factory.
Thank for the invitation! If im ever in Maryland I will certainly give you a shout!
Best of luck with your restoration work and if there is anything you might need help with just drop me a line
www.mikesrestorations.com
Cheers!
It's great to see such a diligent attempt to maintain the beauty of the original construction.
Hi Patric
Thanks! Trying my best to bring out the hidden details of this car
The German craftsmanship is really quite amazing
Those guys were masters!
Good Luck also with the salt protection on your 996! Please be sure to keep us up on how you treat the bottom side
Great video! These are really helpful and overall, great videos to watch and learn. Worth your while to watch them all! Thank you for sharing!
Hello badgebrry
Thank you for the positive feedback!
Another informative video. I always look froward to you videos, and can't wait to see this project progress.
Hi Brett!
Hows that new project coming along do you have a game plan on its restoration?
Hope all is well down under!
Just working my way around the car identifying the areas that need attention. I have been side tracked because I decided to sort some of the mechanical issues as I go.
Also, it is summer here and we have experienced some extremely hot weather (even for sub-tropical Sydney) which makes it hard to go all day, so progress is slower than I expected.
Brett Shields Thats a good way to go Brett
I usually take up to one year before starting in seriously..sorting things out while its still running is a sure way for success. Its a great way to try out some things before getting in deep=) Lots of Luck!
Mike when you say you scrapped the undercoat off did you use a solvent? Or was it literally just scrapping??
Hello Drive
For the most part it was all dry scraped..a few areas were coated with paint stripper but over all pretty easy to scrape
Porsche used an asphalt based undercoating and it just dried out too quickly and lost its adhesion.
Thats why these early cars are so prone to rust. The water would get behind the loose undercoat and be trapped in there.
Hi Mike, I can't find the video where you talked about what you did on the interior. Did you por 15 the entire interior? I'm getting very close to primer, undercoating, and Por15. Trying to figure out the best way to go about everything. I'm actually thinking about Por15 in engine bay, underside/pan, wheel wells, and interior. Then undercoating in engine bay, way wells, and pan. Partial undercoating in trunk. My trunk area is a bit rough and I may apply some body filler and smooth out some areas. To be honest, I would like to do the trunk in Por15. Thanks for any feedback. Rodney
Hello Rodney
Unfortunately I didn't do any video work on POR 15 in the interior.
The interior was painted with it but the dashboard upper and lower/ was sprayed out first with a 2k Matte finish.
POR 15 makes a great primer sealer but if you will be painting or undercoating over the top of it it will need to be sanded first.
Its very tough to sanding as it is extremely hard!
I hope this helps
Good Luck!
Just found your channel today. Great work Mike. The original undercoat was applied with a Schutz gun, which kind of splatters the coating. The folks on the Pelican Part's seem to think Wurth from the bottle is the closest to the original factory coat when applied with a Schutz. Keep up the good work.
Hi Patric
Thanks! and welcome to the channel
This is really good information to share
Would be nice to see some samples of that actual product and process
side by side with some original undercoating.
Original is definitely irregular in its application and medium to small grain..
Can't imagine the Wurth getting there but then maybe=)
Was looking for application of "porsche" matching seam sealer. Did you do any seam sealing on this car, front pan? Sorry if I missed it. ty
Hello gtbarnes
Yes the seam sealer used on this project was made by SEM 29392. A fantastic product and paintable.
I recommend using on several applications throughout the series
Unfortunately my early videos were not put together very well or very thorough .
Making videos is not my specialty. Over the years viewer engagement, questions, comments and requests have help shape the
videos to be more complete and detailed.
I try my best to include as much information as possible but sometimes miss some basic things.
What is fluid film? I have rust on my arches of a 997. Salted U.K. roads
Hello Ti
Fluid film is sprayed onto the bottom side of the car to act as a barrier or film substance between the water/salt and the under components of the car. Its excellent for cars that are driven in touch weather conditions.
Thank you! Why this rather than waxoyl?
You can use phosphoric acid to treat rust, its cheaper and stronger. Excellent videos by the way, keep it up.
Musaed
Great tip! Thank you for sharing!!
Thanks very much for the salt advice Mike. Much appreciated. I have been using light, local wire brushing to remove the surface corrosion, powerwashing, drying and then spraying on Corrosion Block. www.acf-50.co.uk/corrosion_block.htm This has the advantages that it can be quite crudely applied (masking only brakes and tyres) and does not interfere with future maintenance (as various heavy underbody coatings can). Time will tell how good this approach actually is. Two concerns are the exhaust manifold brackets are now pretty crusty and nobody seems keen to help me remove all those bolts before they become domes! It would also be great if Corrosion Block underwent a colour change...any surface rust, although pacified, stays looking like darker rust. I'm still searching for someone in the UK with your attention to detail ;)
Sure thing Patric! I hope can be of some help
It looks like your are on the same track with the corrosion block..
Interesting thing about these old cars and even the ones rusted away is that
the only surviving parts in perfect condition are the ones coated with leaking engine oil or leaking seals. Keeps everything preserved perfectly!
My father used to get into trouble with the road safety authorities here, because he always coated the underside of his cars with old engine oil -so thick that they couldn't assess whether any structural rust had set in. It hadn't of course because he'd stopped it ;)
In other news, I read the tech spec of the Loctite Extend product you mentioned (called 7500 SF in the UK). Something to bear in mind is that they state "Caution: The product may cause rust if applied to a non-rusted surface." How annoying is that?
Your Dad is a smart guy! Engine oil would be the best way..maybe a little smelly but sure would protect
You are right on the rust converter. All converters that I am familiar with will cause rust on clean bare metal..strange chemistry going on there.
I actually did some testing on that stuff before using in the fender areas of the Porsche. I tried an expensive SEM brand about $80.00 USD per quart and the loctite about $6:00 USD per can. The loctite actually applied better and had better results.. amazing..Lots of brands out there but I think all of them will work in the same manner.
Maybe coating your car with some thin 20/50w? or even some synthetic oil..
might do the job? could try a test area for one season and then power wash it off to see how it did=)
I should have known that you'd have done your own tests! The corrosion block forms a nice thin film of clear oil which seeps everywhere but does not loosen fixtures...I'll probably stay with that.
I think thats a great choice!
no way to go wrong there=)
Good luck!