Adding LEDs to an Athearn GP7 Factory Equipped with Tsunami2
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 เม.ย. 2021
- This week we are going to show you how to add LEDs to this Athearn GP7 that comes factory equipped with a Tsunami2 decoder. These techniques and procedures can be applied to any Tsunami2 equipped model that you want to add extra lights to. In this video, George takes the model apart and walks you through the process of what it takes to add extra lights -- such as class lights and truck lights to your model. After the install, George also shows you how to remap your lighting functions and adjust the brilliance of each light added.
CVs Used In this video:
CV 51: FX3 Configuration
CV 61: Brightness Register 1
CV 62: Brightness Register 2
CV 1.262: FX6 Function Mapping
CV 1.285: RMP+ Function Mapping
CV 1.286: RPM- Function Mapping
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Really enjoying all the DCC makings, I just got back into Train maintenance and upkeep a whole lot has happened, since I left working with Train sets, and locomotives...Thanks again for your attention to detail. I hope doing this keeps the model Trains alive, it all almost went with the Dinosaurs extinct. I just purchased seven older fire/cole burner locomotives and Tenders have brought them or tried to bring them back to life I know how important this is to me and other NEW comers.
Thanks for the feedback. We hope that these videos help modelers.
Great video on adding additional lighting to a locomotive, and how to adjust the brillance. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video. I like the idea of using shrink tubing to help route wires and these early GP units have very little space to spare.
Yes we love using this method to keep everything nice and tidy.
Hello George. Thank you for taking the time to do this and share your techniques. Much appreciated. Although it requires a steady hand and may not be suitable for everyone I have had success using a hot pin to make the dimples required to start a drill cleanly and accurately. Worth trying a few times on scrap styrene. Thanks again for all you do.
Thanks for watching and thanks for the tip!
one word excellent. I always appreciate these presentations which help increase my knowledge base
We are glad that you are enjoying these. Thank you for watching.
Lol "use a competitors business card." Can use either side in that case. Thanks for making this.
Haha yes, lasts twice as long that way. Thanks for watching.
Great video George! Thanks for posting. I found it very informative. Tackling class and truck lights is something I want to do but was leery of trying. This gives me the courage to have a go at it!
We are glad that this info is helpful to you. You can do it!
Thanks George, 🐾🚂 Black BearCreek RR, KY.
Thanks for watching
GG👀,
Awesome work my friend I agree with all the other comments-great class on adding more animation.👍👍 Keep up the great tutorials. Thanx Thom...
Thanks!
A trick I use is to when the LED is in place I use some liquid black insulation solution I get from an electrical shop such as Jaycar here in Australia, it holds the LED in place, acts as a light insulator ensuring that there is no bleed back into the loco shell, and does all the things you did in one simple application, helps to shorten the time to install the LED.
Great tip!
Some cool tips in there. A suggestion: For the truck lights, the flashing would drive me nuts. I know it is a function of the LED minimum voltage when trying to get it to be dim. I'd up the volts to insure it is a steady on and then just paint some semi-opaque yellow or white over it to diffuse the light.
Thanks for the tips!
Awesome tutorial George. I have a lot of locos I am wanting to do this for but trying to find proper class light configuration for the specific eras are a little tricky. I have found night shots of SSW9389 with platform and truck lights on but class lights are dark? Also wouldn't rear class lights be red? - Jason
Class lights are as follows: Off, scheduled train. Green: Indicates a following section. Clear/white: indicates an extra. Red: markers illuminated at the rear of a train when pushing. So, red would only be displayed if the loco was at the end of the train in front of the waycar/caboose. Displaying these on the ‘rear’ for the loco when traveling forward is a model railroad thing because lights are neat! If you need further discussions, gimme a call. (970)259-0690
We have a video involving this coming soon as well.
Some great tips, thanks George. I am going to make one of those 9V LED testers. In your experience, what per cent of LEDs don't work right out of the package?
It depends on where you get them. I have had some with much higher failure rates than others. Its always good to test as you go!
Maybe I missed it but I didn't see you add any resistors onto the LED wiring. Is the Athearn model function common V+ already reduced to 1.5V?
Yes the Athearn board is pre-regulated for LEDs, but you will need resistors with the TSU-PNP.
@@SoundtraxxDCC Thanks again for the great video and answering my question. It was very instructional.
@@dwaineruthannarmentrout1811 Of course!
just picked up 2 Athearn genesis Union Pacific sd70m's with tsunami 2 and old style bulbs. I can solder in LED's and no other changed are required?
You will probably need LEDs. Refer to the wiring diagrams in the Decoder and Wiring Installation Guide: soundtraxx.com/reference/manuals/
What LED's do you use?
LEDs that we stock, we have a few options on our website: soundtraxx.com/search.php?search_query=led§ion=product
@@SoundtraxxDCC Looks like you don't stock those LEDs any more....is that right?
@@chrischapin6199 The micro LEDs I used for the class lights we never carried. I could not source good reliable ones cheap enough to be at all competitive. At least not yet. So, for the 0402 wired LEDs, I get them from Lighthouse LEDs on eBay. You can order different quantities and get free shipping. The bigger 3mm LEDs we do carry could be used, but it takes a different approach to this. If interested, email us at Support@soundtraxx.com and we'll share the method to get these bigger LEDs to work. ~G
Your presentation subject could be closer for a better view to what you are doing.
Thanks for the feedback, It is a challenge to get the camera close and still be able to perform the install. Especially when filming along like George did on this one.