Chain Tensioner Replacement - BMW N52 N51 N54
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ต.ค. 2024
- For a while now I have been hearing some rather bad chain rattle/slap while driving and at idle. While replacing the timing chain tensioner is the “entire” fix for these sort of symptoms, it does save 90% of the problem with less than 10% of the effort of replacing the chain guides and chain.
I went with the middle-of-the-road version that cost about $35. I have driven a few hundred miles since replacing it and I’ve had no problems so far. Actually, the engine has never sounded quieter and smoother since I’ve owned it.
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I had a rattling noise on my N52 and it was the Vanos adjuster bolts (recall expired) that were shredded and fell down. Vanos exhaust code was present. I replaced both the intake and exhaust Vans adjusters. Noise gone and 50hp regained.
Thanks for the video. Tried the same on my ML400 CDI, it would be a max 15mins job...but germans said NO. Water cooled alternator right under the tensioner :D Had to remove half of the car, took 8 hours :D But...the job is done :D
Good video, but would of been nice to get a shot of the engine making the noise before and after part replacement
I did try to get a recording of it but I couldn't get it to come through clear enough for it to be worth it, so I didn't bother putting it in.
The rattling noise at low speeds? While idling or when driving?
Was the noise the worst between 1500 and 2000 RPM when the engine is under partial or heavy load?
thanks for the good advice on replacing this tensioner. i finally got round to changing mine after watching.
Thank you!!
Is it okay if I just plug that hole for the tensioner with a big bolt dont let the chain sort itself out as the engine rotates?
If you are a hillbilly, go for it. 😁😁😁😁😁😁🤪🤪
Can you share the noise of the rattling you had? How do i know mine is failing like that? Mine is rattling near ralenti but im not sure if thats my issue. :(
i have 170k miles and my engine runs great with no timing chain noises or symptoms. Would it be a good idea to do just the tensioner preventatively and leave the guides? I’m not interested in doing the guides atm.
I have a n57 70k milage my tensioner bolt is leaking i broight a new one but im worrried about changing and it messing the timing could it jump a tooth
Hello and thank you for your video🙂just a quick question, once the tensioner is taken out is there a risk for the chain to skip any tooth and loose the time? Thank you 😊
@Sergio Rodiles - It possibly could if there was enough slack and you did something to rotate the engine. But if you take the tensioner out and put it right back in again, the risk is extremely low.
Hey guys so I have a 2008 335i and I have a mechanic telling me I have a timing chain problem and another one saying something different. My question is would you be able to tell me what I should be looking for specifically to let me know I have a timing issue.
Chain tensioner to cylinder head / Do not retighten the chain tensioner./ Replace sealing ring / 50 Nm ,,, there you go hope that helps
can i do this myself on a bmw 320d f30 the timing chain itself is at the back of the engine... will it be ok if i fix the car so it doesn't move??
I don’t know. I’ve never worked on or researched that engine.
Hello, is there no danger of skipping time and damaging valves when removing the tensioner?
So long as you don’t crank the engine while it’s out, there should be no risk. If your timing chain is excessively worn, it could lose a tooth on the crankshaft. But I’m pretty sure you’d be having bigger problems if the chain was worn that much. Most chain systems like thing have a built in compensation in the ECU. I know VW has up to 6 degrees compensation on some mid 2000’s model. I’m not sure about BMW. Use your best judgement.
What was the decription of your noise? When did it happen?
Rattling at low engine speed.
can you put the link for the chain tensioner?
It’s a general policy of mine to not post links. Sorry. It’s an easy part to find from the usual suppliers.
Just to add my story, I saw this video and a couple other videos concerning the timing chain tensioner and was inspired to change my tensioner. I drove it around for a little while. Once I swapped it and drove it, I noticed the gear from 1 to 7 changed, As if it stayed in lower gears at lower speeds. (I am not a certified Mechanic) The best way I can explain it. Before the swap it seemed to jump in to seventh gear very fast. Does anybody know why. My Z4 just barely over a 100,000 miles.
I’m very skeptical that small changes in timing chain tension have any affect on the transmission programming.
Use seafoam to brake the carbon down to prevent the bearings from getting scored and there are two one way check valves T40 just above the timing tensioner bolt take them out and clean them then afterwards you need to use ISTA D to bleed the intake and exhaust vanos gears.
How do you bleed them?
@@HandyP There is no service function to bleed VANOS for the N52 in ISTA+.
Hi Casey, I've a N52 too on my z4 e89! I'm experiencing a rattle noise from the engine, how may i discover is the tensioner? It may be an injector, the vanos, the timing chain or the AC...
The only thing I know is that it makes this noise between 600rpm and 3000rpm...and I noticed that the fuel consumption is growed up..
(sorry for my bad English, I'm from Italy)
@Waffohm Coil - Hello, it's always good to hear from the international audience! Unfortunately, it is quite hard for me to say what the cause of the problem is without hearing it for myself so I cannot make a definitive recommendation. Here are my thoughts based not he information you've given:
If the noise is coming from the front of the engine, then I think it is most likely to be coming from the timing chain because of its dependance on RPM and the noise being a rattle. In that case, the best place to start would be the chain tensioner because it's the cheapest and easiest part to replace, it's also good as a preventative maintenance item if yours hasn't been changed already.
I would doubt that the problem is coming from the A/C system because that would be more likely to make a screeching/grinding noise more so than a rattle. One way to diagnose a failed A/C compressor is remove the accessory belt and turn the A/C clutch pulley by hand. If it doesn't feel smooth or if it's making noise, the bearings or clutch in the compressor have probably failed and may need to be replaced.
If it was an injector problem severe enough to make an audible rattle, you would probably also be experiencing a very rough running engine. I'm not sure how to explain the increased fuel consumption. It may be caused by an unrelated issue.
Again, I can't make a definitive recommendation but I hope this can help. Thanks for watching and good luck!
@@Casey_Schmidt thank you for the reply! I've recorded a video, Do you have a fb or Instagram account?
@@serviziomessaggi7264 - I do not. If you post to youtube I can take a look and maybe other people can give advice too.
@@Casey_Schmidt never posted a video, so this will be the first time! Wait some hours, i will tell you when the video is up!
@@Casey_Schmidt ok here it is:
th-cam.com/video/3Fn94NugU40/w-d-xo.html
I did not change engine oil so my car chain tensioner start noise. But i realize to serious. I try to find noise part. And i find to noisy chain tensioner. I buy this parts and change. Now tensioner noise is dissapear. But i find another noise from engine. Maby that is from chain guide. oh my got. Finally coming .....~ . Anyway i easly fixed my car chain tensioner beacuse your video. Thank you.
Link to part?
Sorry, I don’t give out links to specific parts.
Chains do not stretch they just wear out and become longer.
Yes, I know. It annoys me too when people think they actually stretch. However, as a common term that general audience understand/expect, stretch gets the message across just fine.
Thanks great vide. But use some gloves man; don't need no more carcinogens than absolutely necessary. Your parents and/or kids will thank you!
This will not cure, relieve nor treat any problem.
Changing these Tensioners will solve nothing.
That is not the main source of symptoms.
‘Gotta open the valve cover and inspect the Vanos Camshaft Adjusters (Intake and Exhaust).
Check those bolt heads attach to them, make sure they’re not starting to get loose.
What is your evidence for that? Can you reference any other source? I’d be very interested to read about it.
@@Casey_Schmidt n54s and n55s are Notorious for that. some n51s and some n52s too. They have a recall but there is NO remedy yet per BMW.
You have a good theory and I listened to your video. I don’t disagree on it. What I’m saying is when you hear 👂 some ‘rattling noise’ from the engine… or see DME/ECU codes like P015, P012, P054B, 2A7A and P0365 etc… these could be non-specific codes… OPEN THE VALVE COVER immediately B4 IT IS TOO LATE.
Check the Intake and Exhaust Vanos Camshafts. Also check the Intake and Exhaust Vanos Camshaft Adjusters bolt-heads. And Timing Chain, Make sure they’re still intact.
The metal shavings you have could be coming from the bolt heads starting to get sheared.
Just sayin, peace ✌️
I changed mine & they was broken lol @@Casey_Schmidt
china parts? dude why?
@Jumpkic - There are times I will buy the expensive US, Japanese, or German made products and there are times I will buy the cheeper stuff. It just depends on what it is and where I see the value or lack of value. You're free so source your part from whichever supplier you choose.
Bro I'm going to be the unpopular comment here and no hate but you are legit using PRC parts on an engine that is very picky about parts, especially critical ones like a chain tensioner... until then it was all good but you lost me at this point. Sorry.
I agree, this engine takes great care. That particular tensioner worked perfectly with issues on that engine. You’re results may vary but everything went well on my end.
55 nm