A clogged bilge pump that will run because the float switch is activated but the pump won’t expel water. I usually intentionally fill the bilge every so often just to make sure its clean of debris and pumping. I also turn the bilge switch on right as I am starting to plane to get all water out. ****One other thing that will go under most people’s radar is not cleaning the contacts that go to and from the engine. If you don’t clean them, the batteries won’t charge when running and then will eventually fail because they can’t provide enough voltage to engage the starter****
Both! Headed out of town and asked a friend to keep an eye out. Well, batteries all 3, and bilge float switch was done...so water standing fortunately nothing got wet that was crucial.
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Oh yea that’s me. I forgot to turn mine off a few times. Mostly when I was working on it so didn’t drain them to nothing but still frustrating. Stay safe out there 👍😎🌴
If you have an inboard check your bellows. Drove the hour to the lake on memorial day got it in the water and over to the dock shut it down and heard water rushing in. Thankfully I already had a kit at the house 🤭
New to your content, thank you for all the info you have provided. If you haven't already done so, you should do a video on some simple checklists for new boaters. Like what to check each time you go out or come back and then what to go over every month and annually. Thanks again, you keep making them I'll keep watching.
I can’t how many times I’ve found while helping friends with their boats and found a 7-8 yr old battery(s) and even worse 7-8 yr old wet ( led acid ) batteries. You can’t cheap out or get lazy with boat maintenance, it just winds up costing even more money in the end. I always say “ A good maintenance schedule = fun days on the water” and “ poor maintenance leads to, that damn boat is a whole in the water I’m always pouring money into”.
During the Feb. Texas freeze, a rat got in and ate up a bunch of 3/4" hose. Finally got around to replacing the hose to the livewells, fresh water tank, & salt water pickup last week. It also ate portions of the insulation off the VHF antenna wire..hoping we can just use electrical tape to fix it without any signal issues. The rat was later found dead and frozen to the concrete under the car.
You can use peppermint oil for a repellant. I mix a few drops with a cup of warm water and a dash of Dawn dish soap to get the oil and water to mix. Put it in a spray botlle and spray it down.
There months ago, there was a huge storm here in Queensland that lasted for two weeks, a boat at marina sunk as the bilge got full of water and batteries were flat.
I have a question for you I was rated as a great mechanic… I have a question on a boat that I just purchased it has a pair of 150 Yamaha 2011 with 1500 hours supposedly well maintenance how much life do I have on these engines thank you once again for all your great videos on Tuesday’s
You forgot to mention the navigation lights that stop working when you really them!! LOL.. If your nav light is on the bow (like mine), that's the part that is most exposed to the elements , so those connections can get corroded real fast.
My bilge pumps auto switch has two dime sized contacts that are a pain in the ass. If I don't clean them off every two weeks it quits. I may add another pump and a float switch. I added a genII charger for the batteries and a 1 year battery lasts 3 to 5 years batteries always hot
How strange is this. For several months I have had on my boat list of thing to do to test the bilge pumps. One pump is operating perfectly but the other only comes on manually. I discovered today the float switch on pump #1 is not working. The pump works so I ordered a new pump/float switch combo today. A few hours later I watched your latest video about bilge pumps. I didn't realize a non operational bilge pump could cause so much damage to other systems. By the way the new pump listed no mercury as a plus. I disassembled my old float switch and found a broken contact on the mercury switch.
Yeah had a bilge pump with out the separate mechanical float switch what a waste of $130. Chased electrical issues for a year. Found that tedious cleaning of the pins and Kopr-shield really helped the connections. It’s made by Thomas &Betts
Just had the issue with the battery and leaving ignition on because I accidentally killed the motor when I pulled up to the dock to help the misses with the dock. Left it on for 12 days everything dead. Now I put a known good battery in and everything is still dead. Fuses are ok. No power to anything. Ordered a new ignition switch for the Yamaha 115
My bilge pump wasn’t working. Turns out it was a bad fuse. Had to use a test light to determine that because pulling it out and looking at it, you couldn’t tell it was bad. Now I carry extras in my emergency part kit.
On my little 12’ Jon boat I keep an e-kit that has spare fuses, spark plugs, prop shaft pin, emory cloth, electrical tape, duct tape, multi-tool, a ratchet and all needed sockets to conduct an on water breakdown if needed. It’s not overly comprehensive but will get me out of most binds in a pinch. ‘78 6 hp Johnson
Hey! I have a question. I am going to buy an 8 hp 2 stroke end this year but I can’t choose between Mercury or Yamaha…. Which one do you prefer? (Personally i prefer Yamaha)
What can go wrong - Will go wrong - At the worst time possible - Even if you can't do anything about it - wrap your prop on a run into an inlet and ...........I like self bailing boats that don't need a pump or two 👍to stay afloat 👍Can you say major electrical damage ?
Does he have a outside anchor locker hatch? If the anchor locker drains into the bilge, then it will load the bilge up on a good hard rain. That's how my boat is designed.
Could you explain how to hook up 3 batteries with a house battery for a twin engine boat. My boat has twin 225 Yamahas which originally were hooked to 2 batteries through 2 battery switches(1,2 and all positions).I had a third battery installed and the mechanic added a third switch(on or off only)but looking at the wiring it looks like the spaghetti I ate last night. I don’t know whether to keep the switches on 1,2 or all. Or even how to figure out what is charging what. Your explanations are so good I think other boaters might appreciate a lesson.
You need to trace it all and make a one line diagram. I presume the extra battery is for house loads only, the ships main feed and breaker/fuse for it. But there should be a backup connection to another battery in case the house batt is dead. Hence the 1/2/both/off type of switches. I presume it is not a on/off switch but may be. So just like your two other batteries they back each other up for the two motors, I presume, which means he made a connection to another battery or switch. Without a diagram, I have to presume 😁. I added a 3rd battery for my twins but don’t use it for house loads.
Thank you for your question! Please post it in our Born Again Boating Community! Go here and scroll down to access - it’s free: www.bornagainboating.com/
Thank you for your question! Please post it in our Born Again Boating Community! Go here and scroll down to access - it’s free: www.bornagainboating.com/
I'm converting my Mercruiser to an electronic fuel pump. Problem I'm finding with non OEM parts I'm buying (oil pressure shut off switch, fuel pump relay is MSD and made in China!) is 99% of them are made in China and DO NOT LAST! failures are way too frequent, I'd rather pay more for USA made parts for reliability on the water! I don't want to be stranded
Do the auto bilges have a parasitic electrical draw? When I leave mine on auto for a week with no water intrusion the batteries will hardly turn over 115 hp Honda. Have new AGM batteries.
Thank you for your question! Please post it in our Born Again Boating Community! Go here and scroll down to access - it’s free: www.bornagainboating.com/
Some do (the fully electronic ones) some don't (mechanical float switch type), but I would be surprised if it would drain your batteries in a week. I'm guessing you might have another parasitic draw somewhere. If your pumps are the fully electronic type, check the specs in the manual and it should give you some idea how much power it uses.
The bilge pump in our boat works when we manually turn it on but the float switch does not. Unfortunately for us the wiring going to it was not attached to anything. That normally wouldn't be a big deal but the 2 people that owned this boat before us fuc*** the wiring and made it a rats nest. You may be saying redo the wiring but its a 1999 Key West Bay Reef you only have a 6 inch wide hatch to work through and most of the wiring is inaccessible.
@@chiphill4856 Thanks but we have plenty of access to the console. The hatch I'm talking about is the hatch to the bilge. Unfortunately there's no way to make it bigger without destroying the floor.
On your cannon plugs, are you changing out the pins? With a pin removal/installation tool or are you replacing harnesses? I know with aviation we can R&R pins but with the salt water thing I can see corrosion being on both sides of cannon plug. Tools are cheap, pins are a push in and release but the corrosion part is bothersome.
Thank you for your question! Please post it in our Born Again Boating Community! Go here and scroll down to access - it’s free: www.bornagainboating.com/
Sorry asked question before finishing video. I personally would have sealed cannon plugs just to avoid this issue. But the video is great, reminded me that I'll just change out my pumps, easier than waiting for a fail. Your "easy access to batteries" , I personally want to be in a standing position looking down on them vs on my side sliding into a hole.
Flooded lead/acid batteries, such as the one's you changed out in this video appear to be, should never be discharged below 50% Depth of Discharge. Sever degradation will occur if this happens. AGM batteries can be discharged to 20% Depth of Discharge before severe damage will occur. Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries can be discharged all the way to near Zero Depth of Discharge with hardly any degradation as long as they are not re-charged at or below freezing temperatures.
That right there is the number one reason why i can not tolerate boat owners, that's why i had no desire to take the service manager job. They come in with their float switch clogged with trash and blame us for sinking their starter every weekend, they think their warranty includes filth cleaning and stupidity
Question for you guys, say I'm docking a boat overnight. Is it a bad idea (with the key off and removed from the boat) to leave one battery on just in case the bilge pump should need to run? Total boat rookie here, 1985 4winns 216 Santara
Bilge pumps and float switches should be wired to run even with battery switches turned to the OFF position. Easy to check- turn battery switches off and test float switch.
I wish my bilge pump access was that easy!! LOL.... Mine is such a ROYAL PAIN IN THE A... to replace, there is absolutely no room, everything is so cramped !!! -:(
Thank you for your question! Please post it in our Born Again Boating Community! Go here and scroll down to access - it’s free: www.bornagainboating.com/
Bilge pumps connect directly to batteries via fused feeds. The auto feature cannot be turned off. The battery switches are for everything else. Sometimes people have stereos and the like that needs a constant feed to save memory. Then you can also have a fused feed directly to battery bypassing batt switch.
Well....lets look at this objectively. Why would anyone leave their keys on the boat in the ignition? At least if you dont take the keys home, take them out of the ignition. I personally take them home and always turn off the battery anyway unless there is going to be heavy rains for days, then I turn on 1 battery and put the bilge pump on Auto. Plus, I check my Bilge pump and float as part of the routine maintenance before the beginning of the season. Next thing is something I dont get about this Boston Whaler. Why on earth would ANY electrical connections not be secured at or above the highest possible place on the boat so if any water does get into or onto the boat the water will not get to the connections or any of the wiring associated with it.
that's why you shouldn't have a super smart normal style boat. you know data ports etc. Whoever was the Rocket Scientist that thought.... OH hey i can mix water/saltwater with electrical conduits.... should be hung.
Typical bullshite rigging by Boston. Nothing new there. Been working and having to do warranty work for the Boston whaler for years Had they strapped the harness up on the bulkhead, besides using a cheap bilge pump & switch seen worse.
so there's no way in hell you could PROPERLY splice in new 12 pin plugs ???????? a whole new harness for 2 connections. THAT'S A WASTE OF MONEY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
@@kevinjustkevin7627 I'm guessing you're this guy's alt account. however i'll go ahead and say this. Appearently, you sir have had a silver spoon shoved up your ass your whole life and never fixed a wiring harness. 100% of the time a wiring harness unless it's burnt up is very repairable and water NEVER gets much farther than the plugin . neither does the damage due to this.
@@southernprojectsyt6340 Nope never met the guy. Thanks for your concern with my ass. I guess that’s your thing. Again you do you. I just like to fix my boat with this guys help. And for the record, I’ve rebuilt cars, boats and remodeled houses. But I have never been a Troll.
Three things you should never lend out. Your boat, your wife and your tools!
In that order
Oh well. I guess 2 out of 3 ain’t bad
A clogged bilge pump that will run because the float switch is activated but the pump won’t expel water. I usually intentionally fill the bilge every so often just to make sure its clean of debris and pumping. I also turn the bilge switch on right as I am starting to plane to get all water out. ****One other thing that will go under most people’s radar is not cleaning the contacts that go to and from the engine. If you don’t clean them, the batteries won’t charge when running and then will eventually fail because they can’t provide enough voltage to engage the starter****
Aaron, Your friend with a boat must think "It's great to have a friend that is a boat mechanic". ;-)
I think so too!
G. Try
Both! Headed out of town and asked a friend to keep an eye out. Well, batteries all 3, and bilge float switch was done...so water standing fortunately nothing got wet that was crucial.
How do you get that hat below deck when inspecting?.....thanks for these great questions/videos!
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You nailed it that's me floats messed up and I'm all WAYS forgetting to turn the bat switches off now I have a note on my dash sucks getting old lol
Love these videos, just reminded me I haven't checked bilge pump operation in a while. Thanks.
Oh yea that’s me. I forgot to turn mine off a few times. Mostly when I was working on it so didn’t drain them to nothing but still frustrating. Stay safe out there 👍😎🌴
I need to test bilge floats on my rig, thanks for reminder 👍🏻
If you have an inboard check your bellows. Drove the hour to the lake on memorial day got it in the water and over to the dock shut it down and heard water rushing in. Thankfully I already had a kit at the house 🤭
Yup I've had that happen on my Volvo Penta it's no fun!
Man "Tech Tuesdays" are getting better as you go keep up the good work!! Augusta Ga is 👀
Appreciate it!
New to your content, thank you for all the info you have provided. If you haven't already done so, you should do a video on some simple checklists for new boaters. Like what to check each time you go out or come back and then what to go over every month and annually. Thanks again, you keep making them I'll keep watching.
I can’t how many times I’ve found while helping friends with their boats and found a 7-8 yr old battery(s) and even worse 7-8 yr old wet ( led acid ) batteries. You can’t cheap out or get lazy with boat maintenance, it just winds up costing even more money in the end. I always say “ A good maintenance schedule = fun days on the water” and “ poor maintenance leads to, that damn boat is a whole in the water I’m always pouring money into”.
I love all your videos. Dont stop making these
Glad you like them!
With summer coming up this is a very timely video
During the Feb. Texas freeze, a rat got in and ate up a bunch of 3/4" hose. Finally got around to replacing the hose to the livewells, fresh water tank, & salt water pickup last week. It also ate portions of the insulation off the VHF antenna wire..hoping we can just use electrical tape to fix it without any signal issues. The rat was later found dead and frozen to the concrete under the car.
You can use peppermint oil for a repellant. I mix a few drops with a cup of warm water and a dash of Dawn dish soap to get the oil and water to mix. Put it in a spray botlle and spray it down.
Nobody uses my boat but me. I don't lend out tools either.
Same with me.
Starter Bendix gear that likes to get hung up. Thats just one that I’ve dealt with.
Still get rain water and hose water in my bilge. Can’t figure where it’s coming from. But I keep an eye on it
There months ago, there was a huge storm here in Queensland that lasted for two weeks, a boat at marina sunk as the bilge got full of water and batteries were flat.
Boat problems (video idea): how to deal with stripped screws (screws that no longer tighten). Dash, hatches, doors, etc.
Remove screw, ream out hole, fill with epoxy, re-drill, re-install screw.
I have a question for you I was rated as a great mechanic…
I have a question on a boat that I just purchased it has a pair of 150 Yamaha 2011 with 1500 hours supposedly well maintenance how much life do I have on these engines thank you once again for all your great videos on Tuesday’s
You forgot to mention the navigation lights that stop working when you really them!! LOL.. If your nav light is on the bow (like mine), that's the part that is most exposed to the elements , so those connections can get corroded real fast.
Keep an eye on your thru hull fittings and hoses, especially plastic ones… switch them out for brass or stainless
As always, good vid and good info. Thanks again.
Glad you enjoyed it
My biggest problem has always been the Beer lockers and Beer hold being left empty. I really hate my friends sometimes..
My bilge pumps auto switch has two dime sized contacts that are a pain in the ass. If I don't clean them off every two weeks it quits. I may add another pump and a float switch. I added a genII charger for the batteries and a 1 year battery lasts 3 to 5 years batteries always hot
Last large boat I worked on had six 8D batteries down in the engine compartment that used a ladder to get down. That was a hard and sketchy afair
Main electrical problem that I have is switches normally make about six months to a year but I keep about four spares in the boat
How strange is this. For several months I have had on my boat list of thing to do to test the bilge pumps. One pump is operating perfectly but the other only comes on manually. I discovered today the float switch on pump #1 is not working. The pump works so I ordered a new pump/float switch combo today. A few hours later I watched your latest video about bilge pumps. I didn't realize a non operational bilge pump could cause so much damage to other systems. By the way the new pump listed no mercury as a plus. I disassembled my old float switch and found a broken contact on the mercury switch.
Yeah had a bilge pump with out the separate mechanical float switch what a waste of $130. Chased electrical issues for a year. Found that tedious cleaning of the pins and Kopr-shield really helped the connections. It’s made by Thomas &Betts
Heat shrink the connections and keep them up out of the bilge water will help.
Just had the issue with the battery and leaving ignition on because I accidentally killed the motor when I pulled up to the dock to help the misses with the dock. Left it on for 12 days everything dead. Now I put a known good battery in and everything is still dead. Fuses are ok. No power to anything. Ordered a new ignition switch for the Yamaha 115
It was the 50 amp fuse
My bilge pump wasn’t working. Turns out it was a bad fuse. Had to use a test light to determine that because pulling it out and looking at it, you couldn’t tell it was bad. Now I carry extras in my emergency part kit.
On my little 12’ Jon boat I keep an e-kit that has spare fuses, spark plugs, prop shaft pin, emory cloth, electrical tape, duct tape, multi-tool, a ratchet and all needed sockets to conduct an on water breakdown if needed. It’s not overly comprehensive but will get me out of most binds in a pinch. ‘78 6 hp Johnson
@@backwoodsschooling8129
Prepare for the worst, especially on a boat. Tight lines my friend
That battery area in your boat - that's certainly better suited for young agile people!
The rigging you guys did on your Venture rebuild is about x1000 better quality than anything Boston Whaler has ever produced.
Great review showing a couple of minor goofs turn into an expensive repair. What float switch do you recommend?
check new replacement pumps to ensure they work, too many failures with new units.
Hey! I have a question. I am going to buy an 8 hp 2 stroke end this year but I can’t choose between Mercury or Yamaha…. Which one do you prefer? (Personally i prefer Yamaha)
Thank you for the very useful tips !
Glad it was helpful!
What can go wrong - Will go wrong - At the worst time possible - Even if you can't do anything about it - wrap your prop on a run into an inlet and ...........I like self bailing boats that don't need a pump or two 👍to stay afloat 👍Can you say major electrical damage ?
Great video!! In other words don’t let people borrow your boat!!
:-)
Does he have a outside anchor locker hatch? If the anchor locker drains into the bilge, then it will load the bilge up on a good hard rain. That's how my boat is designed.
Just had to replace my Blige pump. the float switch keep running the pump every few minute.
boat materials getting jacked +50% this past year
Could you explain how to hook up 3 batteries with a house battery for a twin engine boat. My boat has twin 225 Yamahas which originally were hooked to 2 batteries through 2 battery switches(1,2 and all positions).I had a third battery installed and the mechanic added a third switch(on or off only)but looking at the wiring it looks like the spaghetti I ate last night. I don’t know whether to keep the switches on 1,2 or all. Or even how to figure out what is charging what. Your explanations are so good I think other boaters might appreciate a lesson.
You need to trace it all and make a one line diagram. I presume the extra battery is for house loads only, the ships main feed and breaker/fuse for it. But there should be a backup connection to another battery in case the house batt is dead. Hence the 1/2/both/off type of switches. I presume it is not a on/off switch but may be. So just like your two other batteries they back each other up for the two motors, I presume, which means he made a connection to another battery or switch. Without a diagram, I have to presume 😁. I added a 3rd battery for my twins but don’t use it for house loads.
Thank you for your question! Please post it in our Born Again Boating Community! Go here and scroll down to access - it’s free: www.bornagainboating.com/
House battery should have a charging/disconnect relay so that it is automatically isolated from the engine batteries except when charging.
Here’s a question 2 led acid and 2 AGM batteries. Was the charger set to the right setting to charge them?
Also that’s a ton or connections on the batteries as well it’s under 4 (abyc standard) but still I hate seeing that
Didn't see this, timestsmp?
Your videos are awesome! I’m thinking about repowering my 23 dorado with a new 250. What brand do you think is best?
Yamaha or Merc
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@@hankschrader149 thanks
Have the same boat and had the same issue and it fried my VHF module
Great video buddy 👏👏👊
Glad you enjoyed
Pull closeup items a bit further away, so they don't blur out please. Still, awesome video always 👊
thank you
I'm converting my Mercruiser to an electronic fuel pump. Problem I'm finding with non OEM parts I'm buying (oil pressure shut off switch, fuel pump relay is MSD and made in China!) is 99% of them are made in China and DO NOT LAST! failures are way too frequent, I'd rather pay more for USA made parts for reliability on the water! I don't want to be stranded
Do the auto bilges have a parasitic electrical draw? When I leave mine on auto for a week with no water intrusion the batteries will hardly turn over 115 hp Honda. Have new AGM batteries.
Thank you for your question! Please post it in our Born Again Boating Community! Go here and scroll down to access - it’s free: www.bornagainboating.com/
Some do (the fully electronic ones) some don't (mechanical float switch type), but I would be surprised if it would drain your batteries in a week. I'm guessing you might have another parasitic draw somewhere. If your pumps are the fully electronic type, check the specs in the manual and it should give you some idea how much power it uses.
The bilge pump in our boat works when we manually turn it on but the float switch does not. Unfortunately for us the wiring going to it was not attached to anything. That normally wouldn't be a big deal but the 2 people that owned this boat before us fuc*** the wiring and made it a rats nest. You may be saying redo the wiring but its a 1999 Key West Bay Reef you only have a 6 inch wide hatch to work through and most of the wiring is inaccessible.
Sometimes on a KW, the fwd console seat backrest will be removable to access the wiring.
@@chiphill4856 Thanks but we have plenty of access to the console. The hatch I'm talking about is the hatch to the bilge. Unfortunately there's no way to make it bigger without destroying the floor.
On your cannon plugs, are you changing out the pins? With a pin removal/installation tool or are you replacing harnesses?
I know with aviation we can R&R pins but with the salt water thing I can see corrosion being on both sides of cannon plug.
Tools are cheap, pins are a push in and release but the corrosion part is bothersome.
Thank you for your question! Please post it in our Born Again Boating Community! Go here and scroll down to access - it’s free: www.bornagainboating.com/
Sorry asked question before finishing video.
I personally would have sealed cannon plugs just to avoid this issue.
But the video is great, reminded me that I'll just change out my pumps, easier than waiting for a fail.
Your "easy access to batteries" , I personally want to be in a standing position looking down on them vs on my side sliding into a hole.
Do we need to turn off the battery switches everytime we leave the boat??
Absolutely yes. The bilge pumps should be on a circuit that bypasses the switch so they are powered 24/7.
Flooded lead/acid batteries, such as the one's you changed out in this video appear to be, should never be discharged below 50% Depth of Discharge. Sever degradation will occur if this happens. AGM batteries can be discharged to 20% Depth of Discharge before severe damage will occur. Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries can be discharged all the way to near Zero Depth of Discharge with hardly any degradation as long as they are not re-charged at or below freezing temperatures.
If you rely on a Bilge pump, you shouldn't. 100% it will fail at some point.
That right there is the number one reason why i can not tolerate boat owners, that's why i had no desire to take the service manager job. They come in with their float switch clogged with trash and blame us for sinking their starter every weekend, they think their warranty includes filth cleaning and stupidity
Question for you guys, say I'm docking a boat overnight. Is it a bad idea (with the key off and removed from the boat) to leave one battery on just in case the bilge pump should need to run? Total boat rookie here, 1985 4winns 216 Santara
Bilge pumps and float switches should be wired to run even with battery switches turned to the OFF position. Easy to check- turn battery switches off and test float switch.
@@dannynone2784 bought it used. Given my testing, I'm pretty sure the whole boat is rigged to kill me.
I wish my bilge pump access was that easy!! LOL.... Mine is such a ROYAL PAIN IN THE A... to replace, there is absolutely no room, everything is so cramped !!! -:(
Great video!!
Thanks for the visit
Check everything everyday, then check it again, after that check everything again.
Good video mate
Thanks for the visit
could you not simply re-terminate the harness couplers?
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I had battery smell weird, put it on the trickle charger and blew up the next day
Bravo...bravo...bravo...u r #1
thanks!
Bilge pumps break faster than a bread stick
what do you think about filling the electrical connections with dielectric grease
Buddy is there away to contact ya need to talk to you about a motor ? Like email or text or call
Nice!!!
🙂😎👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Anyone who asks to borrow your boat is NOT your friend.
Boat problems = bust out another thousand!!
Talk about bilge pumps not coming on, then turning off battery switches? Np power, no bilge pumps.
Bilge pumps connect directly to batteries via fused feeds. The auto feature cannot be turned off. The battery switches are for everything else. Sometimes people have stereos and the like that needs a constant feed to save memory. Then you can also have a fused feed directly to battery bypassing batt switch.
@@robertp7209 Just wanted t clarified! Was not said in video.
Lousy design by Whaler placing all that electrical so low in the bilge.
How can someone who can afford that Whaler treat it so badly? The interior looks like shit.
so basically never share a boat
Well....lets look at this objectively. Why would anyone leave their keys on the boat in the ignition? At least if you dont take the keys home, take them out of the ignition. I personally take them home and always turn off the battery anyway unless there is going to be heavy rains for days, then I turn on 1 battery and put the bilge pump on Auto. Plus, I check my Bilge pump and float as part of the routine maintenance before the beginning of the season.
Next thing is something I dont get about this Boston Whaler. Why on earth would ANY electrical connections not be secured at or above the highest possible place on the boat so if any water does get into or onto the boat the water will not get to the connections or any of the wiring associated with it.
that's why you shouldn't have a super smart normal style boat. you know data ports etc. Whoever was the Rocket Scientist that thought.... OH hey i can mix water/saltwater with electrical conduits.... should be hung.
Break
Out
Another
Thousand
Sir
Typical bullshite rigging by Boston. Nothing new there. Been working and having to do warranty work for the Boston whaler for years Had they strapped the harness up on the bulkhead, besides using a cheap bilge pump & switch seen worse.
so there's no way in hell you could PROPERLY splice in new 12 pin plugs ???????? a whole new harness for 2 connections. THAT'S A WASTE OF MONEY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
How far does that corrosion extend under the insulation? So much resistance due to corrosion. Fix it right the first time.
@@kevinjustkevin7627 I'm guessing you're this guy's alt account. however i'll go ahead and say this. Appearently, you sir have had a silver spoon shoved up your ass your whole life and never fixed a wiring harness. 100% of the time a wiring harness unless it's burnt up is very repairable and water NEVER gets much farther than the plugin . neither does the damage due to this.
@@southernprojectsyt6340 Nope never met the guy. Thanks for your concern with my ass. I guess that’s your thing. Again you do you. I just like to fix my boat with this guys help. And for the record, I’ve rebuilt cars, boats and remodeled houses. But I have never been a Troll.