If you want to fill holes in wood that is going to be painted transparant finish you best fill them with the same wood as the rest is made of. To do that, save the wood dust from sanding of the surrounding area. Mix the dust with white wood glue and use that as filler. You will be amazed how little you see from it after it’s finishend.Dust from sanding mixed with (transparent) glue makes an outstanding filler!
Alternatively, especially for tiny screw holes like these, you can dip a toothpick in some wood glue, then jam it into the hole. Snip it off with a pair of wire cutters (or just cut it with a safety knife/razor blade) and sand flush if you need to.
Thanks Ben; I’m glad to hear it. I hope the slow (although I prefer to think of it as steady) pace of these video releases isn’t causing you any trouble.
Angove, you're a bleepin' genius. I bought one of those tools years ago at Harbor Freight and have never used it. That being said I watched another TH-cam video on carving belly cuts with an angle grinder with a cup wheel. It hogs put the most wood in short order. I've done a couple that turned out primo. After watching this video I'm going to try the multi-tool before sanding with the ROS. Also fill the holes with those StewMac toothpicks. They work great.
@@BradAngove We saw those videos well after we did the work, we were starting work on a tele kit, and my son wanted a body like his Strat with the cutwaways that with our our lack of equipment at the time was the main reason we used the spoke shave (from a hobby kit I inherited from my father that dated from the 50's) It was a tiny one....probably with a 3/4 inch blade...Then we saw your videos with the belly and arm cuts in a tele body and said....Brad had the same idea we did by making those cuts....absolutely love your videos and are using some of your suggestions....making lots of mistakes and learning from them...and carrying on....
Thank you so much for the information you were providing. Just got done clearing with spray Max 2K clear that I had seen in one of your previous sessions. Turned out great thank you!
Haha , You Always Do, Brad Thats One Of The Many Things I Really Like About Your Videos, Just Wish You Where In The Uk Would Love To Have A Guitar Finnish Done By You, Cheers
Brad,Great videos,building the same TC kit with alder body. Hope you go with a vintage amber neck..Would love to see how it's done. If not,any suggestions??Looking forward to upcoming videos.
Brad,I chose the maple fret board and was leaning toward spray cans for that.Looking for the old school vintage amber look.As far as the body goes, would LOVE to do a candy red,but I know my limits! Not yet decided on solid color or stain..
Here is the spray can that I would use for the amber: amzn.to/2EjbN5N I would probably seal the neck with this first: amzn.to/2CsTc74 Then I would clear coat it with this: amzn.to/2Cp6RM9 Just so that you know; those are affiliate links.
Hey Brad!!! love watching this come together i know it's many years later but this got me to try my hand at this kit! I had a question for you which is do i need to do any grain filling? the specific kit i ordered is Basswood and i see a lot of things online saying with Basswood its not necessary because its not a wide open pored is this accurate?
Hey, Brad, love your vids... You showed the 600 disc at 7:00, but was there another grit that you were using before that? Also, what was the pad that you were using on the sides? Thanks muchly!
I probably did a bit of work with 320 or 400 before that. The pad I used on the side was just a foam back piece of sandpaper. Also went up to 600 with that.
I don’t have a bigsby, but I think I’ve got some kind of similar tremolo kicking around that I should probably install on one of these telecaster I’m working on haha.
Nice !! I was looking at 1 of those occilating tools but i figured they'd probly not be great for cutting a perfect 90 degree cut as needed on a headstock vs a jigsaw. Also .. how bad has the poly sealer been on the kit so far?
HI Brad, my son and I are building two SOLO Tele guitar kits and so have been watching your very good videos. I bought one for him as Christmas gift and liked the idea so much that I'm building one also. I talked to Matthew at SOLO and told him you were doing a good job so more free SOLO kits should be in the mail as we speak. LOL Question please, I might purchase a LP from SOLO and plan to highlight the grain with dye/stain, then 2K clear coat. ( did car restoration so have all paint guns/compressor etc.) . knowing the maple cap is thin, would you go with dye /sand/clear coat or use a tint in clear, skip dye part all together to avoid blotching veneer or over sanding into body. Planning on Cherry red finish.Thanks, Ted
I think those veneers have a bit of sealer on them to protect them during shipping (though I think Solo may be changing that), so tinting the clear is probably your best bet.
cool vid. looking forward to see the finished result. in the process of creating a channel and some content about guitars and cnc. not much experience with filming yet though... just a quick question: while you're filming with the Nikon, do you leave the AF on or do you focus it and leave it on MF?
hey Brad question for you which polisher or buffer do you like to polish paint with I'm thinking about getting one prefer electric because I don't have enough CFM to put out for a air powered one which electric buffer do you like for polishing I know you worked in an auto shop I'm going to use it to buff my truck? have a happy New Year
Hi David. I put together a kit page for the polishing equipment that I like. Check it out here: kit.com/bradangove/what-you-need-to-be-able-to-polish-your-paint I think you'll find it helpful.
hey brad....just looking to finish my solo st kit with an amber stain and tru oil....any suggestion on canadian brand name stains or dyes...don't want to pay duty charges if I can help it... BTW love following along! Doug
Brad I don't know if you'll see this and I know it isn't the right video but I couldn't find a vid about my problem. I have a poplar body I sanded to 320 but it's still rough almost fluffy. Nothing I do seem to help. The poplar just won't sand right. Do you have any ideas? I mean you're one of the best on youtube thanks Rob
Hey Brad, just got one of the Diy tele kits like the one your working on. Im sanding it down, noticing that the poly is thick on there. did you sand all of it off? And what sand paper would you recomend to get all all off quickly thanks.
I’m not sure what you mean. My kit didn’t have any poly on it, just a very thin layer of sanding sealer. I would start with 220 grit to remove it. 150 if it seems quite thick.
Oh sanding sealer is what I mean. It was really thick on the back. So thick that I could scrap off with a putty knife. Was really weird. I was using a palm sander finally got it all off using 120. I want to stain it.
Hey brad. Quick questions. I got the thinline tele kit from solo. Basswood and a maple top. I am going to stain the body (the maple has a nice grain). How will the 2 woods take the stain? I assume the binding will be coloured......is tape the best way to keep it cream?
You can tape the binding or scrape it. You need to clean the wood with solvent and sand it before staining because it comes with a thin coat of sealer on it.
If you sand far enough that will take care of it. The problem is that you run the risk of sanding through your veneer. Wiping it down with mineral spirits a few times should help pull some of that sealer out so that the stain will work better. They’re changing the production soon I think, so the veneers won’t have sealer anymore.
I need to fill some holes on a Spector bass, sand it, and wax it. What do you suggest for sanding (grit) if there are small dings, and nicks that need to be fixed?
@@BradAngove Yes I'm thinking of just waxing after. I was told to use Formsby's Lemon oil to remove dirt after sanding and then use wax. I think I am going to try it out sometime soon once I have all of the needed materials. Many thanks!
I know this is 3 years old but I had to post this somewhere. I needed to fill many small cracks and holes on the side of my Tele body. Instead off spending a few bucks and getting a water based power filler(powder so I could add some of the ink I'm using for a good fill). I decided to save the sawdust (same color as body) add some titebond and the ink. WHY DID I DO THIS!? It's hardened like cement and since it's the side the only power sander I own won't work so it's hand sanding. 2 hours to sand a spot about 2''x2''. I'm an idiot. Just to save $20 and to not have anything shipped to me during this covid 19 crisis I have cause myself HOURS and HOURS of hand sanding. Take my advice. Spend the money and get filler.
This series should be on Netflix man... better than most of the stuff on there
Haha wouldn’t that be wild! If only I had a Netflix worthy operating budget I’d turn this into a hell of a show haha.
Thanks man.
If you want to fill holes in wood that is going to be painted transparant finish you best
fill them with the same wood as the rest is made of. To do that, save the wood dust
from sanding of the surrounding area. Mix the dust with white wood glue and use
that as filler. You will be amazed how little you see from it after it’s
finishend.Dust from sanding mixed with (transparent) glue makes an outstanding filler!
Alternatively, especially for tiny screw holes like these, you can dip a toothpick in some wood glue, then jam it into the hole. Snip it off with a pair of wire cutters (or just cut it with a safety knife/razor blade) and sand flush if you need to.
Following this build specifically as I am building the same Solo Kit along with you. Love the Channel.
Thanks Ben; I’m glad to hear it. I hope the slow (although I prefer to think of it as steady) pace of these video releases isn’t causing you any trouble.
Angove, you're a bleepin' genius. I bought one of those tools years ago at Harbor Freight and have never used it. That being said I watched another TH-cam video on carving belly cuts with an angle grinder with a cup wheel. It hogs put the most wood in short order. I've done a couple that turned out primo. After watching this video I'm going to try the multi-tool before sanding with the ROS. Also fill the holes with those StewMac toothpicks. They work great.
Haha I’m not sure I can afford the stewmac toothpicks.
Sandpaper on a polisher also works well for finish carving after using the grinder wheel.
Just saw this now...my son and I used a spoke shave to do the belly and arm cuts on our tele kit...worked great
Nice; that’s a good option. I have a few videos with different methods for this.
@@BradAngove We saw those videos well after we did the work, we were starting work on a tele kit, and my son wanted a body like his Strat with the cutwaways that with our our lack of equipment at the time was the main reason we used the spoke shave (from a hobby kit I inherited from my father that dated from the 50's) It was a tiny one....probably with a 3/4 inch blade...Then we saw your videos with the belly and arm cuts in a tele body and said....Brad had the same idea we did by making those cuts....absolutely love your videos and are using some of your suggestions....making lots of mistakes and learning from them...and carrying on....
I just picked up my kit at solo yesterday. These videos will definitely help me out with my project.
Glad to hear it.
Thank you so much for the information you were providing. Just got done clearing with spray Max 2K clear that I had seen in one of your previous sessions. Turned out great thank you!
I’m glad it went well. Thanks for watching.
Wish that i had seen this video a couple of weeks ago! Next time i will try Polyfilla instead of wood filler. Thanks, Brad.
Wood filler is just as good an option.
Hey Brad! great video again! I'm really enjoying this series.
Thank you. I’m glad to hear it.
Thanks Brad, Wondering What Sort Of Finnish You Will Come Up With, Will Be Interesting As Always, Cheers
Hopefully I can make it entertaining haha.
Haha , You Always Do, Brad Thats One Of The Many Things I Really Like About Your Videos, Just Wish You Where In The Uk Would Love To Have A Guitar Finnish Done By You, Cheers
Great videos man love these diy kits!
Thanks Dylan. I’m glad you enjoy them.
Nice
Brad,Great videos,building the same TC kit with alder body. Hope you go with a vintage amber neck..Would love to see how it's done. If not,any suggestions??Looking forward to upcoming videos.
Are you working with spray cans, or spray equipment, or by hand?
Brad,I chose the maple fret board and was leaning toward spray cans for that.Looking for the old school vintage amber look.As far as the body goes, would LOVE to do a candy red,but I know my limits! Not yet decided on solid color or stain..
Here is the spray can that I would use for the amber: amzn.to/2EjbN5N
I would probably seal the neck with this first: amzn.to/2CsTc74
Then I would clear coat it with this: amzn.to/2Cp6RM9
Just so that you know; those are affiliate links.
Much appreciated Brad..Forgot about a sealer.This is why I subscribe to your channel..Happy New Year.
Happy new year to you as well.
thank you!
I'm happy to see you clean up the belly cut. It needed it. What bucker have you decided on?
I’ve ordered one. Can’t recall the name of it off the top of my head, but it’s on the hot side.
Hey Brad!!! love watching this come together i know it's many years later but this got me to try my hand at this kit! I had a question for you which is do i need to do any grain filling? the specific kit i ordered is Basswood and i see a lot of things online saying with Basswood its not necessary because its not a wide open pored is this accurate?
Yeah you should be able to just seal basswood rather than grain filling it.
Hey, Brad, love your vids... You showed the 600 disc at 7:00, but was there another grit that you were using before that? Also, what was the pad that you were using on the sides? Thanks muchly!
I probably did a bit of work with 320 or 400 before that. The pad I used on the side was just a foam back piece of sandpaper. Also went up to 600 with that.
This is gonna be so cool......
I really hope so haha.
I'm wanting to put a Bigsby styled bridge on my DIY Tele. What are your thoughts and could you maybe do a tutorial video showing how you would do it?
I don’t have a bigsby, but I think I’ve got some kind of similar tremolo kicking around that I should probably install on one of these telecaster I’m working on haha.
Nice !! I was looking at 1 of those occilating tools but i figured they'd probly not be great for cutting a perfect 90 degree cut as needed on a headstock vs a jigsaw.
Also .. how bad has the poly sealer been on the kit so far?
A jigsaw would definitely be better for cutting a headstock. I haven’t had any issues with the sealer, but I’m not really staining mine per se.
Brad, do you ever use a band saw to do your belly/arm carves? If so, what kind of jig do you use for holding the body while cutting? Thanks.
I don’t. I usually use a grinder with a carving disc.
@@BradAngove perfect. Thanks for taking the time to answer.
If you had a broad sword like a real man, you could scrape the whole top at once. Jessayin. ;-)
I’d never though if that actually. I’ll go sharpen my sword a bit and give it a try...
HI Brad, my son and I are building two SOLO Tele guitar kits and so have been watching your very good videos. I bought one for him as Christmas gift and liked the idea so much that I'm building one also. I talked to Matthew at SOLO and told him you were doing a good job so more free SOLO kits should be in the mail as we speak. LOL
Question please, I might purchase a LP from SOLO and plan to highlight the grain with dye/stain, then 2K clear coat. ( did car restoration so have all paint guns/compressor etc.) . knowing the maple cap is thin, would you go with dye /sand/clear coat or use a tint in clear, skip dye part all together to avoid blotching veneer or over sanding into body. Planning on Cherry red finish.Thanks, Ted
I think those veneers have a bit of sealer on them to protect them during shipping (though I think Solo may be changing that), so tinting the clear is probably your best bet.
cool vid. looking forward to see the finished result.
in the process of creating a channel and some content about guitars and cnc.
not much experience with filming yet though...
just a quick question: while you're filming with the Nikon, do you leave the AF on or do you focus it and leave it on MF?
I leave the AF on. It doesn’t do a whole lot though.
hey Brad question for you which polisher or buffer do you like to polish paint with I'm thinking about getting one prefer electric because I don't have enough CFM to put out for a air powered one which electric buffer do you like for polishing I know you worked in an auto shop I'm going to use it to buff my truck? have a happy New Year
Hi David. I put together a kit page for the polishing equipment that I like. Check it out here: kit.com/bradangove/what-you-need-to-be-able-to-polish-your-paint
I think you'll find it helpful.
hey brad....just looking to finish my solo st kit with an amber stain and tru oil....any suggestion on canadian brand name stains or dyes...don't want to pay duty charges if I can help it...
BTW love following along!
Doug
I haven’t found any Canadian dyes, but if you find a Richelieu you should be able to get some of behlen’s dyes. I’m fond of them.
Check out Wood Essence!
Brad I don't know if you'll see this and I know it isn't the right video but I couldn't find a vid about my problem. I have a poplar body I sanded to 320 but it's still rough almost fluffy. Nothing I do seem to help. The poplar just won't sand right. Do you have any ideas? I mean you're one of the best on youtube thanks Rob
Have you tried using a grain filler on it at all?
@@BradAngove I used Zinsser shellac. Grain filler would be better?
I have some aquacoat clear grain filler.
You’ve already put the shellac on it and it’s still coming out fuzzy?
@@BradAngove Yes an it has me confused. Never before has it done this.
Hey Brad, where do you get the music in your videos from? Is it yours?
I wish haha. It’s from epidemic sound.
Hey Brad, just got one of the Diy tele kits like the one your working on. Im sanding it down, noticing that the poly is thick on there. did you sand all of it off? And what sand paper would you recomend to get all all off quickly thanks.
I’m not sure what you mean. My kit didn’t have any poly on it, just a very thin layer of sanding sealer. I would start with 220 grit to remove it. 150 if it seems quite thick.
Oh sanding sealer is what I mean. It was really thick on the back. So thick that I could scrap off with a putty knife. Was really weird. I was using a palm sander finally got it all off using 120. I want to stain it.
That is strange that it would be that thick. I’m glad you managed to get it off.
Hey brad. Quick questions.
I got the thinline tele kit from solo. Basswood and a maple top. I am going to stain the body (the maple has a nice grain). How will the 2 woods take the stain?
I assume the binding will be coloured......is tape the best way to keep it cream?
You can tape the binding or scrape it. You need to clean the wood with solvent and sand it before staining because it comes with a thin coat of sealer on it.
Brad Angove I've started sanding. Figured that was enough to deal with the sealant. No? What kind of solvent? Alcohol? Mineral spirits?
If you sand far enough that will take care of it. The problem is that you run the risk of sanding through your veneer. Wiping it down with mineral spirits a few times should help pull some of that sealer out so that the stain will work better. They’re changing the production soon I think, so the veneers won’t have sealer anymore.
I need to fill some holes on a Spector bass, sand it, and wax it.
What do you suggest for sanding (grit) if there are small dings, and nicks that need to be fixed?
If you’re just waxing it after? As high a grit as you think you can get away with and still remove them.
@@BradAngove Yes I'm thinking of just waxing after. I was told to use Formsby's Lemon oil to remove dirt after sanding and then use wax. I think I am going to try it out sometime soon once I have all of the needed materials. Many thanks!
I hope it goes well. If the nicks are small, consider 400 grit followed by 800 grit.
@@BradAngove do you recommend using a power sander or like a sand paper block for the sanding?
A block is fine. Power is unnecessary.
Ax Craftsman!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks James.
Hey Brad, If you wanted to paint the body would you need to sand to 600 grit?
I will be painting the body. I like to sand to at least 320. 400-600 is usually good. I wouldn’t go above 800.
It’s not really the brand that’s important. It’s the paint type. Some brands make several types.
What grit of sandpaper are you using?
Probably 150 or 220 at first and then 320 or 400 to finish off.
@@BradAngove thanks I'm going to use all of them, just to be safe
I know this is 3 years old but I had to post this somewhere. I needed to fill many small cracks and holes on the side of my Tele body. Instead off spending a few bucks and getting a water based power filler(powder so I could add some of the ink I'm using for a good fill). I decided to save the sawdust (same color as body) add some titebond and the ink. WHY DID I DO THIS!? It's hardened like cement and since it's the side the only power sander I own won't work so it's hand sanding. 2 hours to sand a spot about 2''x2''. I'm an idiot. Just to save $20 and to not have anything shipped to me during this covid 19 crisis I have cause myself HOURS and HOURS of hand sanding.
Take my advice. Spend the money and get filler.
You may have found using a razor blade or scraper a brick quicker for that. Thanks you for posting.
@@BradAngove I thought about the razor blade. Still searching for one. I know I have some...lol
Thanks for the reply!! And keep up the cool vids.
Hey Brad love your video's. Very helpful. Anyway I can reach out to you via Email with issues and pictures of what I'm dealing with?
The easiest ways to ask me questions involving photos are through the Instagram and Facebook links in the description of the video.
What is the type of sandpaper are you use?
Just normal sandpaper. Probably mostly 220 grit.