Thanks for the fret info. I also have a Solo kit (LP) and the frets felt good and the fret ends were nice out of the box. But after seeing this, I’ll probably dress the frets and try to make them even better.
Your videos have helped me so much. I am in the process of making my 1st custom guitar, and you are my go-to for paint advice. I got an old Washburn ox10. I'm doing an anodized orange paint job with a vinyl decal embedded in the paint, adding mini-buckers in the single slots, adding coil splitting mini toggles for the neck and middle, adding a bridge-on switch for all 3 pups simultaneously, and finally, adding a custom 8 position varitone switch. Doing all my own woodworking and electronics. Taking my time with the paint to get it right. Should be together soon! Thank you Brad. 🤘✌
So I just wanted to share that between you, Darrell Braun, Philip McKnight, and many others.....I've started doing my own work on my guitar. I think I was just too afraid to take my instrument apart and learn the guts. This week I took my Epi 61 SG (P90s) and gave it the satin sand treatment. Was going to just do the neck, but did the entire thing. It's not perfect. But I'm proud of myself for taking a stab at it and being somewhat successful. Then I leveled and polished frets. First time doing that. Honestly I feel like an idiot for not learning to do it sooner. It was so easy. Finished the setup and intonation. When all was said and done, I felt like I was playing a new guitar. Which is awesome because I wasn't a huge fan of it before. Thanks Brad. Love your videos and your super down to earth approach. Recent subscriber. Really inspiring.🙂
I’m ecstatic to hear that the videos helped you out and that it went well for you. The fret job in particular will make a world of difference if the guitar didn’t play well before.
@@BradAngove yeah man. Next string change I'm gonna prob give it another sand and put new pickups in it. I had a hard time sanding around the pickups. I didnt take them out bc I dont trust my soldering yet. Lol. But in the next few weeks, I'm gonna narrow it down between mini HBs or noiseless p90s. And probably focus on getting most, if not all, of the finish off the neck. What do you recommend for treating a bare neck? Tung oil? Tl;dr: yes. 🤣 Thanks Brad.
Here is another idea. Use Duplicolor Shadow wheel and chrome blackout kit. I've used it on all chrome parts to make blackout hardware. So for about 30 bucks all the hatdware is now gloss black.
You are so awesome for making these videos! I'm considering getting myself a cheap worn out guitar off trade me and fixing it up and these videos will help me so much, Thank You!
Got to say, great tutorials! I've allways liked painting my instrument, but i've never done it properly. But, I recently bought a 7-string and allso some paint. Gonna follow your tutorials, and hope for a great result :D
This is great! I thought I was going to have to go and watch 75 videos and read 45 blogs to research preparing for the kit I bought. I got the Tele one, so all I really need is this series and some of your other finishing/painting videos. Thanks so much man!
Very happy to see you using Autosol. It's a great metal polish which I've used on my motorbikes polished alloy covers and as far as I'm concerned, there's nothing better...end of!!
Coincedentally just ordered their TC kit with a maple neck before I found this series. I'm hoping they haven't changed too much in the 3 years since this vid was done.
HEY MAN NICE JOB WITH THE FRETS U DO A BETTER JOB THAN I DO. I WILL SEND A NOTCHED STRAIGHT EDGE FOR LEVELING THE NECK FOR THE TRUSS ROD ADJUSTMENT. EVEN IF IT WAS DONE BEFORE IT WAS SENT, TRAVELING THRU DIFFERENT CLIMATES OR FLIGHT CAN CHANGE THE NECK! DO THAT BEFORE LEVELING FRETS. COOL MAN, GOOD CONTENT!
I'm working on a ✔ Albatross Iceman ✔ BYOGuitar LP Jr. Double cut. I'm diggin' the BYO LPJ 👍👍 The Albatross (◀ 1st clue!) Iceman should be called a😒 Slushy or P😱S. Happy to qualify... if anyone asks. ✔✔ SOLO, Thanks for sending BA the two-pack. And yes, you are on my Bookmark. Hope to see you soon Shred Hardy all.
Brad, Naturally, I can only speak for Iceman. The pictures are all taken at an angle, so you can't see that the body template they appear go off of must have been drawn free-hand by a tired day laborer. I traced out an OEM on the computer screen, and scratched my head for a week on how to make it work. I almost sent it back, but then I'd be out forty bucks with nothing to show... So I just knuckled-up and put my money where my mouth is... I WILL make it work! I'm buying shop tools (that I shouldn't need now) faster than I planned, so that's slowed me down. The body/neck screw holes look tapped template free, so I need to plug and redrill. But, I will say the neck has a real comfortable feel. Everything else is as you would expect for $114 bucks. Appreciate the videos, buddy. Keep 'em coming.
Hi bob; I have a lot of more recent videos on this topic that I think are more helpful. In particular, I generally would go with a leveling beam now instead of a file, and they are fairly easy to make or buy.
Well since i've only ever painted guitars i'm gonna try my hand at a black stain job, i think that'd be real classy on a les paul looking guitar, as for pickups i'd like to get a set of tonerider humbuckers. not sure which models yet though.
Interesting, you're the first guy I've seen using an axe file for this. Its narrowness poses some issues to be careful of that I didn't hear you mention. I know you blue marked the frets but unlike using a full wide fret leveler, of the matching fret radius, you can easily remove to much material in one or more areas and throw off the radius. If one can be mindful of this, then this file is a good cheap way to go. They go for about $15 at canadiantire in Canada. I saw you secured the neck to the table with an F clamp at the headstock. This too is an important step using a filing device. Slow movement and light even pressure on the file to remove material slowly is important. Brad what province are you in?
+2bikemike That’s a good point. I probably should have noted that you need to be careful to follow the radius. For some reason I guess I figured that was obvious, but I really shouldn’t be assuming things. I’m in Alberia.
I do vintage guitar fret work and so I turn the sticky side up so there is no tape stuck to the ols finish. Cause it would ruin your whole day to peel finish from a vintage guitar.
No tape stuck to the finish. So I put tape across the fretboard just like you do but leave the ends straight out. First fret and last fret and one in the middle. Then I put tape face up along the edge and that sticks to the fretboard tape. Then tape off the rest of the frets so in the end no tape is sticking to the neck finish.
+Dane Nichols oh, I see what you mean. That actually seems like a better way to do it regardless of finish. Thanks for the tip. I thought you meant you were working on finished fretboards and couldn’t have tape sticking to them.
it is less risky to cut the tape roll itself with the blade rather than the tape on the board. you only have to glide through the first couple layers of tape, so you dont have to ruin a roll to do this. also, you might have better luck with the tape peeling part if you adhere a super sticky tape(gorrila tape is what i would try) over the taped frets after you complete the fretwork, sticking it to the unwanted tape so you can peel it off in one go. i havent tested this tape method, but you risk about 10 cents of tape trying it.(this was typed redundantly for clarity.)
+5hredder The tape removal theory sound interesting. I may have to give that a try. As for the tape cutting, I’m not really sure what you mean. The method I demonstrated isn’t risky at all.
well, i suppose it isn't risky, unless it is done incorrectly, or with a shaky hand... it is just easier for me to slice the tape before i unspool it because i can dimension multiple pieces at once, cutting as much tape as i want in one pass. both ways work well though.
how do you handle the binding and pre drilled holes when refinishing? Do you fill the holes before clear coat? Do you clear over the binding? I'm using Solarez wood filler and clear coat.
I just got my Tele from Solo and I am not impressed. The holes do not line up for the bridge. The neck end looks like it was dropped. The neck is not finished at the top. The neck does not fit snugly into the pocket in the body and there is a small space at the side. I called them and they are willing to replace it. I am considering it. The alternative is to work around the issues and try to fix them.
Hey Brad! Thanks for the videos. I have one small problem (maybe I missed something). After checking for level what do I do if a fret is below the rest?
You just go in and level them all down to that height generally. Have a look at some of my newer tutorials on this (from recent builds). They are a bit better I think.
@@BradAngove Thanks! All my guitars have rosewood fingerboards so I am thinking of my first build being something a bit different but I noticed every build I've seen on YT has a rosewood fingerboard so just wanted to make sure there was no reason to avoid maple with cheap builds.
How long did that take you from the second you put the tape on, until you finished peeling and polishing the frets? I do it totally different to you but I do use the long tape down the sides. I also hate taping it up haha
MrMetalManMe A couple hours total I think. The leveling was very fast. Frets were pretty good. The more leveling you need the longer all the steps take.
Brad Angove it takes me days because I get stressed. Buy I have found a way to crown them with a dremel. Then go straight to wire wool and polish. Wire wool gives it an insane shine but you have to get a good vacuum over the frets and all the bits go straight away and leaves no black marks.
Geez the taping is the part that takes the longest... >.< I finished the back of the neck in Tru-Oil at the same time I did the frets (Finish first!) just so I didn't have to tape AGAIN... lol
me and my brother we're thinking about opening up our own paint shop and and wanted to know do you own your own business and is it is it your only source of income? is it worth it to own your own business or work for someone else?
+picture me rollin I do this as a side job, and run it through my own small business. It’s not my only source of income, and I don’t own the shop. I’ve seen some guys start up successful paint shops, but you kinda have to have the facility to do cars etc. to succeed in that market I think.
Once you get to actually stringing it up, I've found this on the 'net to really nail down nut slot height: www.stewmac.com/How-To/Online_Resources/Learn_About_Guitar_Nut_and_Saddle_Setup_and_Repair/Using_Feeler_Gauges_to_Control_Nut_Slot_Depth.html ...And, as an added bonus, I didn't want to spend a lot on nut files, so I ended up getting one of those cheap keyring-style needle files (they work like garbage, but they're good for finishing), and another feeler gauge set. Using a dremel I cut some teeth across the edges of the feeler gauges, which worked *really* well to rough out the depth, plus you can really fine-tune the width of the slot to the width of the strings you're using. (Add a little bit to your overall nut slot height, though, as the bottoms will be squared due to the nature of the expedient files, and when you finish 'em with the needle files it'll lower it a bit more.)
+Khalazia Faqih I used a grey rocket in the last video to determine if it needed fret leveling. Once I had that sorted out, there was no reason to use one again.
YOU WOULD SERVE YOUR OBSERVERS BETTER BY LETTING THEM KNOW THAT THEY NEED TO USE A STRAIGHT EDGE FULL NECK LENGTH TO ENSURE THE NECK IS FLAT BY ADJUSTING THE TRUSS ROD. CROWN OR RELIEF WILL CAUSE INACCURATE WORK.
Thanks for the fret info. I also have a Solo kit (LP) and the frets felt good and the fret ends were nice out of the box. But after seeing this, I’ll probably dress the frets and try to make them even better.
It’s usually worth it.
Your videos have helped me so much. I am in the process of making my 1st custom guitar, and you are my go-to for paint advice. I got an old Washburn ox10. I'm doing an anodized orange paint job with a vinyl decal embedded in the paint, adding mini-buckers in the single slots, adding coil splitting mini toggles for the neck and middle, adding a bridge-on switch for all 3 pups simultaneously, and finally, adding a custom 8 position varitone switch. Doing all my own woodworking and electronics. Taking my time with the paint to get it right. Should be together soon! Thank you Brad. 🤘✌
+Sean Bailey That sounds awesome. I hope it turns out great.
So I just wanted to share that between you, Darrell Braun, Philip McKnight, and many others.....I've started doing my own work on my guitar. I think I was just too afraid to take my instrument apart and learn the guts.
This week I took my Epi 61 SG (P90s) and gave it the satin sand treatment. Was going to just do the neck, but did the entire thing. It's not perfect. But I'm proud of myself for taking a stab at it and being somewhat successful. Then I leveled and polished frets. First time doing that. Honestly I feel like an idiot for not learning to do it sooner. It was so easy. Finished the setup and intonation.
When all was said and done, I felt like I was playing a new guitar. Which is awesome because I wasn't a huge fan of it before.
Thanks Brad. Love your videos and your super down to earth approach. Recent subscriber. Really inspiring.🙂
I’m ecstatic to hear that the videos helped you out and that it went well for you. The fret job in particular will make a world of difference if the guitar didn’t play well before.
@@BradAngove yeah man. Next string change I'm gonna prob give it another sand and put new pickups in it. I had a hard time sanding around the pickups. I didnt take them out bc I dont trust my soldering yet. Lol. But in the next few weeks, I'm gonna narrow it down between mini HBs or noiseless p90s. And probably focus on getting most, if not all, of the finish off the neck. What do you recommend for treating a bare neck? Tung oil?
Tl;dr: yes. 🤣
Thanks Brad.
Yeah, I really like using tung oil for my raw necks now.
Here is another idea. Use Duplicolor Shadow wheel and chrome blackout kit. I've used it on all chrome parts to make blackout hardware. So for about 30 bucks all the hatdware is now gloss black.
You are so awesome for making these videos! I'm considering getting myself a cheap worn out guitar off trade me and fixing it up and these videos will help me so much, Thank You!
+Tomas McILroy Thanks for watching.
Got to say, great tutorials! I've allways liked painting my instrument, but i've never done it properly. But, I recently bought a 7-string and allso some paint. Gonna follow your tutorials, and hope for a great result :D
+Robert Handley I hope they serve you well. Thanks for watching my stuff.
This is great! I thought I was going to have to go and watch 75 videos and read 45 blogs to research preparing for the kit I bought. I got the Tele one, so all I really need is this series and some of your other finishing/painting videos. Thanks so much man!
Thanks Mike. I’m glad you like it.
Very happy to see you using Autosol. It's a great metal polish which I've used on my motorbikes polished alloy covers and as far as I'm concerned, there's nothing better...end of!!
+realjumper I agree; it’s great stuff. I use it as part of my sharpening process for tools etc. sometimes too.
I built the same kit and love it -it was fun to build and fun to play. One thing: at around 6:32 you say the frets are stainless steel. Great series!
Thanks David.
Great lesson! Thanks for this. Matt at Solo Guitars is a very helpful guy. Can't wait for my second kit to arrive.
+Rob Thomas thanks for watching. I’m glad you’re in touch with Matt.
Great work Brad,just found out Solo guitar kits is very close to my house.
+Bobby Lopes Really? That’s cool.
Coincedentally just ordered their TC kit with a maple neck before I found this series. I'm hoping they haven't changed too much in the 3 years since this vid was done.
I think they’re probably pretty much the same.
It is probably a good idea to check if the neck is completely straight before taking a file to it.
Indeed. Did that in the prior video in this series. I should have mentioned that.
great vid!! Thanks. Was looking for something to make a cheap kit better. Great info on neck work.
Thanks Greg.
HEY MAN NICE JOB WITH THE FRETS U DO A BETTER JOB THAN I DO. I WILL SEND A NOTCHED STRAIGHT EDGE FOR LEVELING THE NECK FOR THE TRUSS ROD ADJUSTMENT. EVEN IF IT WAS DONE BEFORE IT WAS SENT, TRAVELING THRU DIFFERENT CLIMATES OR FLIGHT CAN CHANGE THE NECK! DO THAT BEFORE LEVELING FRETS. COOL MAN, GOOD CONTENT!
+Michael Perry Thanks Mike; I used a notched straight edge to do that in the last video in this series.
I'm working on a
✔ Albatross Iceman
✔ BYOGuitar LP Jr. Double cut.
I'm diggin' the BYO LPJ 👍👍
The Albatross (◀ 1st clue!) Iceman should be called a😒 Slushy or P😱S.
Happy to qualify... if anyone asks.
✔✔ SOLO, Thanks for sending BA the two-pack. And yes, you are on my Bookmark. Hope to see you soon
Shred Hardy all.
No love for the albatross? Good to know. I’ll keep that in mind.
Brad,
Naturally, I can only speak for Iceman. The pictures are all taken at an angle, so you can't see that the body template they appear go off of must have been drawn free-hand by a tired day laborer. I traced out an OEM on the computer screen, and scratched my head for a week on how to make it work. I almost sent it back, but then I'd be out forty bucks with nothing to show... So I just knuckled-up and put my money where my mouth is... I WILL make it work!
I'm buying shop tools (that I shouldn't need now) faster than I planned, so that's slowed me down.
The body/neck screw holes look tapped template free, so I need to plug and redrill.
But, I will say the neck has a real comfortable feel.
Everything else is as you would expect for $114 bucks.
Appreciate the videos, buddy. Keep 'em coming.
Nice video Brad. Can you give me a bit more info on the single cut ax fine please.
Hi bob; I have a lot of more recent videos on this topic that I think are more helpful. In particular, I generally would go with a leveling beam now instead of a file, and they are fairly easy to make or buy.
@@BradAngove thanks Brad. And I am waiting on a kit to come in do you still get credit on the sale?
If you go through the link that I use in the description of my videos I do.
@@BradAngovegot it.... will do
Just bought the solo les paul kit with the 2cm maple top. I'm looking forward to that. Good to see Canadians working on Canadian guitars eh?
+The LumberJackHammer Yeah eh. That’s cool; what do you have planned for it?
Well since i've only ever painted guitars i'm gonna try my hand at a black stain job, i think that'd be real classy on a les paul looking guitar, as for pickups i'd like to get a set of tonerider humbuckers. not sure which models yet though.
+The LumberJackHammer Nice. That sounds like it’ll be a cool build.
Yeah i'm looking forward to it, i'll be sure to tag you in instagram once i get the finish done. (in 2018)
+The LumberJackHammer Awesome. Can’t wait to see it.
Interesting, you're the first guy I've seen using an axe file for this. Its narrowness poses some issues to be careful of that I didn't hear you mention. I know you blue marked the frets but unlike using a full wide fret leveler, of the matching fret radius, you can easily remove to much material in one or more areas and throw off the radius. If one can be mindful of this, then this file is a good cheap way to go. They go for about $15 at canadiantire in Canada. I saw you secured the neck to the table with an F clamp at the headstock. This too is an important step using a filing device. Slow movement and light even pressure on the file to remove material slowly is important.
Brad what province are you in?
+2bikemike That’s a good point. I probably should have noted that you need to be careful to follow the radius. For some reason I guess I figured that was obvious, but I really shouldn’t be assuming things.
I’m in Alberia.
Brad Angove
Alberia!! I'm near London Ontario. Last time I was in Alberia was 1988. Wow be 30 years in a couple of months.
+2bikemike Nice. I was in London briefly last year. I have family in Sarnia.
Blue painters tape removes more cleanly.
I do vintage guitar fret work and so I turn the sticky side up so there is no tape stuck to the ols finish. Cause it would ruin your whole day to peel finish from a vintage guitar.
+Dane Nichols so you have to wrap the tape all the way around then? That sounds like a pain haha.
No tape stuck to the finish. So I put tape across the fretboard just like you do but leave the ends straight out. First fret and last fret and one in the middle. Then I put tape face up along the edge and that sticks to the fretboard tape. Then tape off the rest of the frets so in the end no tape is sticking to the neck finish.
+Dane Nichols oh, I see what you mean. That actually seems like a better way to do it regardless of finish. Thanks for the tip.
I thought you meant you were working on finished fretboards and couldn’t have tape sticking to them.
Oh, that really would be a pain. Imagine sand the frets with the sticky facing up!
+Dane Nichols Hahaha that would be hilariously brutal.
it is less risky to cut the tape roll itself with the blade rather than the tape on the board. you only have to glide through the first couple layers of tape, so you dont have to ruin a roll to do this. also, you might have better luck with the tape peeling part if you adhere a super sticky tape(gorrila tape is what i would try) over the taped frets after you complete the fretwork, sticking it to the unwanted tape so you can peel it off in one go. i havent tested this tape method, but you risk about 10 cents of tape trying it.(this was typed redundantly for clarity.)
+5hredder The tape removal theory sound interesting. I may have to give that a try.
As for the tape cutting, I’m not really sure what you mean. The method I demonstrated isn’t risky at all.
well, i suppose it isn't risky, unless it is done incorrectly, or with a shaky hand... it is just easier for me to slice the tape before i unspool it because i can dimension multiple pieces at once, cutting as much tape as i want in one pass. both ways work well though.
how do you handle the binding and pre drilled holes when refinishing? Do you fill the holes before clear coat? Do you clear over the binding? I'm using Solarez wood filler and clear coat.
I clear over the binding. I fill tuner holes usually, and sometimes ferrule holes, but not much else.
If I have a few frets that are high, would it be possible to just file/smooth down/re-crown those offending frets?
If you have a way to get them exactly level with the rest.
@@BradAngove ok gotcha, thanks!
Awesome video.
+Somchiman Thank you.
Can I use this series for the J bass that I got from solo music gear?
Yes, except to the extent that the bride will be grounded differently.
I just got my Tele from Solo and I am not impressed. The holes do not line up for the bridge. The neck end looks like it was dropped. The neck is not finished at the top. The neck does not fit snugly into the pocket in the body and there is a small space at the side. I called them and they are willing to replace it. I am considering it. The alternative is to work around the issues and try to fix them.
Their customer service is good. If you’re having substantial problems with it it’s probably best to simply replace it.
Can you use a radius block to level the frets instead of a file or flat board with sandpaper?
+Chad Prince If your frets don’t have a compound radius, you should be able to do that.
Hey Brad! Thanks for the videos. I have one small problem (maybe I missed something). After checking for level what do I do if a fret is below the rest?
You just go in and level them all down to that height generally.
Have a look at some of my newer tutorials on this (from recent builds). They are a bit better I think.
@@BradAngove Thanks, Brad.
Would you recommend getting a maple fretboard on one of these kits and if so is there any difference in how you should treat it?
It’s up to you. Functionally it’s the same. Maple fretboards are more commonly clear coated etc. though and they don’t need oil per se.
@@BradAngove Thanks! All my guitars have rosewood fingerboards so I am thinking of my first build being something a bit different but I noticed every build I've seen on YT has a rosewood fingerboard so just wanted to make sure there was no reason to avoid maple with cheap builds.
Sweet.
Back in that video called “how to apply poly by hand” what grit of sandpaper did you use?
+Brennen Atkins I believe it was 1500 grit.
Thank you
+Brennen Atkins You’re welcome.
How long did that take you from the second you put the tape on, until you finished peeling and polishing the frets?
I do it totally different to you but I do use the long tape down the sides.
I also hate taping it up haha
MrMetalManMe A couple hours total I think. The leveling was very fast. Frets were pretty good. The more leveling you need the longer all the steps take.
Brad Angove it takes me days because I get stressed. Buy I have found a way to crown them with a dremel. Then go straight to wire wool and polish.
Wire wool gives it an insane shine but you have to get a good vacuum over the frets and all the bits go straight away and leaves no black marks.
+MrMetalManMe Nice. That’s sounds like a good system.
Geez the taping is the part that takes the longest... >.< I finished the back of the neck in Tru-Oil at the same time I did the frets (Finish first!) just so I didn't have to tape AGAIN... lol
+kirt fulcher Good to hear. You did it while your feet board was covered?
yup, it felt like it took longer to tape the fretboard than to polish the frets with 0000 steel wool!
Is that actually a puzzle ring on your finger??
No. Just a cheap silver ring haha.
me and my brother we're thinking about opening up our own paint shop and and wanted to know do you own your own business and is it is it your only source of income? is it worth it to own your own business or work for someone else?
+picture me rollin I do this as a side job, and run it through my own small business. It’s not my only source of income, and I don’t own the shop. I’ve seen some guys start up successful paint shops, but you kinda have to have the facility to do cars etc. to succeed in that market I think.
Once you get to actually stringing it up, I've found this on the 'net to really nail down nut slot height:
www.stewmac.com/How-To/Online_Resources/Learn_About_Guitar_Nut_and_Saddle_Setup_and_Repair/Using_Feeler_Gauges_to_Control_Nut_Slot_Depth.html
...And, as an added bonus, I didn't want to spend a lot on nut files, so I ended up getting one of those cheap keyring-style needle files (they work like garbage, but they're good for finishing), and another feeler gauge set. Using a dremel I cut some teeth across the edges of the feeler gauges, which worked *really* well to rough out the depth, plus you can really fine-tune the width of the slot to the width of the strings you're using. (Add a little bit to your overall nut slot height, though, as the bottoms will be squared due to the nature of the expedient files, and when you finish 'em with the needle files it'll lower it a bit more.)
+Nicholas Feeley Teeth in the feeler gauges? That’s very innovative. Thanks for the tip!
Not using fret rocker?
+Khalazia Faqih I used a grey rocket in the last video to determine if it needed fret leveling. Once I had that sorted out, there was no reason to use one again.
Brad Angove alright, btw, really cool neck, and shine frets? Maybe oil finish will be great for super smooth feeling , and raising up the grain
+Khalazia Faqih Thanks. I’ll probably be doing an oil finish on the next one. I have something a little crazier in mind for this neck.
Brad Angove alright, you are the boss ! Or batman????
+Khalazia Faqih I can’t answer that...
YOU WOULD SERVE YOUR OBSERVERS BETTER BY LETTING THEM KNOW THAT THEY NEED TO USE A STRAIGHT EDGE FULL NECK LENGTH TO ENSURE THE NECK IS FLAT BY ADJUSTING THE TRUSS ROD. CROWN OR RELIEF WILL CAUSE INACCURATE WORK.
I DID. CHECK THE LAST VIDEO.
Mmmm
tHANK YOU. BUY SOME PEG BOARD. U MIGHT RUN OUT OF SCREWS. KIDDING
Haha I really hope I don’t run out. That would not be fun.
First
Rohan Deshpande darn it!