6L80E Rebuild
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ต.ค. 2020
- 2015 Chevrolet Silverado 4x4
PATREON: / curmudgeontransmission
Supplier Links:
Superior: superiortransmission.com/
Transtar: www.transtar1.com/
WIT: www.wittrans.com/
Sonnax: www.sonnax.com/
Teckpak/Fitzall: www.teckpak-fitzall.com/
Transgo: transgo.com/
Precision of New Hampton: gopnh.com/
Atec Transtool: www.toolsource.com/atec-trans... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Really like all your rebuild videos. Been a rebuilder for over 10 years now and always like to see how other builders use their techniques in their craft. We are a dying breed but videos like these keep the dream alive. Thanks Brother.
Appreciate you watching them.
You did an awesome job of showing almost everything ya need to put this transmission together... very comprehensive... OUTFREAKINSTANDING
Thanks 👍, glad you liked it. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the video! Awesome build detail and I really like where you share insights to issues you have seen such as the gasket between the stator shaft and pump cover. Rebuilding my 6L80 in a 2014 Silverado failed torque converter at 120k miles. Preferred to have my reputable local shop do the repair but their backlog was ~6 weeks to get it in. Videos like yours and an ATSG manual allowed me to tackle the project myself.
Glad I could help, thanks for watching.
I Just got my 2014 Silverado 1500 LT rebuilt. Same issue torque converter failed at 118k miles. Cost me roughly 3600 to get the rebuild with all updated parts and a 2 year 24k mile warranty.
One hell of a Transmission Repairman A+
Thanks, too kind.
Finally one guy with Common sense
Love your video right on point ☝️
Thanks
So is there a particular reason you don't "soak" the clutch discs before assembly? Or just to keep things clean?
I get this question all the time. I have been doing this for 36 years now and have seen no difference between soaking them and not, so I quit doing it. Used to , and there are some instances where I still will, but 99% of the time I don't. The rare occasion I do is carry outs and racing transmissions. Mostly because they will be abused. I try on my carry outs, which I despise doing, to talk to the person and see how knowledgeable they are. That will give me an idea on how it will be treated.
15' 6L80E here in a Tahoe, came back from a 2 hour trip relaxed for a bit ran and errand. Went to leave and no forward or reverse was finally ble to get it to move back into parking spot. Had it picked up next day, they drove it on trailer, but apparrntly made a abnormal sound ( I wasn't rhere) thoughts?
One of the biggest problems with this unit is the torque converter, i suspect it came apart and stuck some valves. Most likely the actuator feed limit valve and/or compensator feed regulator valve..
Thanks for this.. Wanting to buy an Escalade AWD and a tad concerned with the trans, so Ill get it serviced straight away, (we will be doing a lot of driving). Whereabouts is your shop?
The problems seem to be the same on all of these. The pressure regulator valve and the valves in the valve body get worn. Once the wear reaches a certain point the torque converter is going to fail. That usually results in the pump getting ruined. So, if it has a fair number of miles on it plan on it needing a rebuild soon. Depending on the area of the country and who does it you are probably looking in the 4500-6500 range, factor that into what you are going to pay for the vehicle. I do not give that info out. I don't own the shop, that being just one of the reasons I don't give the info out. Thanks for watching.
Great video! Learned alot while rebuilding my 6L90. At the end of the build when you spun the shaft from the bell housing, how difficult should it be to turn? Mine moves but not easily. Thanks again!
All depends on how tight the bushings fit. If you can turn it by hand, not using pliers to grab the shaft, you should be fine. That front end is pretty heavy. You should be able to turn both shafts independent of each other. Thanks for watching.
I did mine too 6l80 from my 07 escalade i did order the 1234 drum that came completely assembled from the dealership and also another drum wich came with bushings. Mine also was a bit to move & i figure it was because it has new bushings. Is your tranny still going? Wats the end play input shaft?
@@mrflinstone2553 As far as I know the transmission is still working. I rebuilt it for a friend. I did get the 'binding' issue resolved before putting it in. It was because I had not fully seated the drums. I had to take it apart 5 or 6 times to get it right. Good luck!
Nice video
Thanks
Thank you brother
Welcome
Great Job!! I noticed you smooth out small scratches on stator pump, and bell housing, what grit sand paper do you use and how much max should I take off? Thanks
Thanks. Brown Scothbrite to knock the worst off then a flat stone, t-35289 to clean it up. Not very much. Couple of thousandths. If the grooves are very deep at all you will need to send it off and get it resurfaced or purchase a new one.
Thanks again!
thanks god save you for ever really clear and nice
Thanks for watching.
Thank you.
You're welcome!
You rock man! I am gathering parts to rebuild my 6L80. This vid is the most informative I have seen. Thank you for your time.
Thanks. One thing you need to be aware of that is not in this video. At the time this was made it was recommended that you not remove the stator from the cover. You get the gasket in the kit. Some have paper, some have a metal one. Hopefully you get a metal one. They will both work but the metal one is better. When you install it the stator needs to be preloaded in a clockwise direction before tightening the bolts. th-cam.com/video/z3wPwOo_Jqw/w-d-xo.html
Just wondering if you work for a trans shop called “the transmission shop”?
Thank you, You do very good job & great video.
What is the the best upgrade torque converter for 6L80 transmission?
is it TCI torque converter, B&M Racing torque converter or RECON TOW PERFORMANCE TORQUE CONVERTER FOR GM 6L80/90 ???
Thanks. Never run any of those so I cannot say anything about them. We use Precision of New Hampton's upgraded one. Whatever converter you use if you do not address the root problems you will still have failures. That being a worn-out PR valve in the pump and worn-out valves in the valve body. Sonnax makes a zip kit that addresses both of those. Bushings need to be replaced in the unit as well. 99 percent of the time when the torque converter has come apart the surfaces in the pump are ruined and it needs to be resurfaced or replaced. I have heard that HP Tuners are turning the Lock Up function off until cruising in 4th, 5th or 6th and it is helping a lot. Cannot really speak to that as well because I have not done it, just what I have heard.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission
Thank's a lot I appreciate it.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission
What about circle d converters and their level 4 rebuild kit?
I have never used them so I cannot say.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission
You better start🤣👍🏻
I have a Ford ranger with the 4R44. I built it for a customer and it lasted almost a year. It came back with the OD band and drum trashed out. Done it again and it lasted about 3 months and same thing happened again. I have it here awaiting to find out what is going on with it. On the initial build I replaced both band apply seals on side of case,both bands,and everything else inside. I also replaced the pump and valvebody on the initial build.
I would look real close at the EPC solenoid bracket and the bore where the snout of the solenoid goes and make sure that the bracket is not letting the solenoid move out and the bore is snug. Sounds like a pressure problem.
Does the 6l80e use the same output shaft for 2wd and 4wd?
No they are not.
What bushing kit are you using to install all the bushings? Also are you cutting the bushings out?
Atec Transtool, link is in the description. Yes. Standard bushing cutters. There are severakl different styles.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Do you recommend a bushing cutter? I usually just used a hammer and chisel. I also have a ATEC set, but it’s old. My sizes don’t fit the 6L80 bushings. I only have sizes 2-18.
I use whatever will get the bushing out the best. Probably have 8 different bushing cutters, chisel, screwdriver. Even have a bolt to pull a couple different ones out (not on this transmission). Blind hole puller on a few (456 Drum). The Atec kit I bought was the master kit they sold about 40 years ago. Don't believe they sell it anymore. Now I believe it is 2 separate kits. It will do all of them except the bearing in the 1234/35R drum. In my kit I use 23,30,31,32,39,40,44,45 and 47.
Where are you located. And how much do rebuilds go for nowadays? Thank you for your time. Also great video.
Don't give that info out, nothing against you. Not sure. I don't own the shop and don't do the pricing. With the way parts have gone up in price I just don't know any more. Used to be in 35-4500 depending on the damage for this particular one.
I just paid 6000 dollars for rebuild and billet torque converter 4x4 6l80
Is the output shaft supposed to spin both ways 2015 silverado
Yes. One way will turn easier than the other.
Great video, everything on my 6l80 build is good until i install the pump shaft is hard to turn 😮 what should i check? Thanks
The drum behind the pump is probably not all the way down. If you are trying to turn it with it sitting with the pump pointed up it can be hard to turn, especially with new bushings. If you can turn it by hand you are ok. Lay it down and it should get easier to turn.
@Curmudgeon Transmission it was the 2-6 drum on the side where the sprag assembly goes, one of the clutches towards the bottom wouldn't come out it was pinched & not in the groves. I took everything out just to double check & im glad i did, i spend close to 2k in parts.
Thanks for your quick response.
@@mrflinstone2553 Welcome, thanks for watching.
Hello
I have a question 2014 6L90 transmission does good until it heats up then it doesn’t want to pull in reverse, I have it torn apart but I don’t see anything worn. Can I please get your opinion?
Thanks
Herman
Need to check line pressure. If it is low then you either have a problem with the pump or the pump slide is sticking. The slide sticking usually happens with rebuilt pumps. If it is not low you will be looking at a cracked 1-2-3-4/3-5-R drum, low reverse clutch, or valve body problem.
Thanks so much looking at those problem areas now, I do know that my pump halve bell housing side is in really bad shape
Hi Tom it's a good video also can you help me find a pair of long snap ring pliers like yours. Who makes it and part number please
Kent-Moore J-45126. Adaptacase also makes a pair. The adaptacase you can get through Transtar or WIT. I had my tool truck order mine. I believe they are both about the same price.
Thanks for the information.
Hi Tom what is the part number of this sonnax zip kit.
I have Chevrolet Silverado 1500 2015 4x4 just wondering if this zip kit will fit
Thank you
It's the same for all of them. 6L45-6L90-ZIP
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you Tom
Once the whole transmission is assembled and installed into the vehicle is it 6 quarts of fluid or 10?
oh and about the torque converter. yeap i put a OEM gm one back in and the damn thing was starting to go bad around 8 months.
You will want to add about 6 qts. before starting. Then depending on the cooling system you have it will hold between 10 & 13 qts. total.
Precision of New Hampton makes a good one.
I just purchased a Chevrolet truck that has this transmission. It works fine when cold. When its warm it does not want to upshift. It only has 38,000 miles. Is there anything I can check without removing it?
Need to see if there are any codes in the system. If you do not have the capability to scan the system you can got to an Autozone and I thinK O'reilly's also will do a computer scan for free. Other than that, pull the pan and see if there is metal. If there is the torque converter is probably coming apart, biggest problem with them. Depending on how long it is tried to be driven like that will determine how much damage is done.
If it works fine when cold and doesn't when warm, then it MAY be the common issue of a leaking drum within the transmission. He talks about it around the 13:00 mark. Though the part is significantly cheaper than a replacement transmission, you will have to remove and tear-down the transmission.
How did you clean the valve body?
th-cam.com/video/kDFEMM6Gbc4/w-d-xo.html
The E-Torx socket can be made. Buy a cheap set from harbor freight and use the E12 and grind the end of the socket down until it's flat. Had to do a tecm swap and my local trans guy told me about it....
Thanks for the tip.
💕💕💕💕💕
good night friend I have a problem if my silverado year 2010 they changed the valve rubbers and I am left with a fault that I release the accelerator I accelerate again and it fails but when accelerating hard it does not fail I thought it was an engine but the scanner threw code P0877 friend I appreciate if you can help me. Cheers
Are you talking about the pressure switch rubber seals? They may not be done correctly. Make sure the plastic puck in the bottom is positioned correctly, then put new film on top, then make sure the rubber is sitting all the way down. What was the problem before the repair?
I hope you had a great Christmas. I have a question I just had a 6l80 put in my 2015 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3 4x4. Every once and awhile when I’m going around 40 MPH and I tip into the gas and it has to shift from 4th to 3rd it will make a chirp sound. It doesn’t do it when I am braking and it shifts from 4th to 3rd only when getting on the gas. Not every time but maybe 50 percent of the time. It shifts great. I had a mechanic say it probably the accumulator making the noise under load and it shouldn’t be a issue. What do you think? Thanks
Decent, hope you did as well. I have not had that issue yet but I know a guy who has and I believe he told me it has to do with the clutches and fluid compatibility. A lot of places will run a complete synthetic fluid instead of Dexron LVHP. You can try putting a bottle or two of shudder fix in it. You can pick it up at O'Reilly's and Autozone and probably other places like that. Get the one made by Lubegard. If that does not fix it you will need to pull the pan and filter and let it sit overnight to drain as much fluid as it can and then refill with Dexron LVHP. If that does not cure it the clutches will have to be replaced. Make sure they are using Raybestos clutches. It could also be a low pressure problem and that would need to be checked with a pressure gauge. I will get with him Monday and make sure that is what is going on.
I don’t feel a shudder you just hear a squeak/chirp sound
@@danielbrazzle3661 The squawk is the shudder, it is just such a short duration you can't feel it.
Ok the trans is a week old it is a LKQ remanned which I believe is supplied by ETE reman
@@danielbrazzle3661 Did you install this yourself? What fluid did you use? If you want to check the pressure and you have a gauge the port is on the bellhousing, passenger side. Problem usually shows up when hot. Should be 50-60 psi in drive @ idle. Should rise immediately with throttle. I would contact LKQ and see what they want you to do. I am not sure what their remans are like but I have had a lot of problems with reman pumps, which is why I have been fixing them the way I talk about in the video's, have had good success with them, only two that I had problems with. The other best way is a new pump from the dealer, they are not cheap.
When I pressure test mine like you do at the end by blowing into it I don’t get that hard clunk like I hear on the video. Seems like there is just air bypassing. Should I use more/less air pressure or is something wrong?
Which drum?
Seems like all of them. I have to confess that I installed new Teflon rings and I didn’t have the proper tool to resize them. I had searched around the net and found someone had used a hose clamp to resize it. I’m worried I squeezed them down to tight. Is that possible?
Maybe they will relax and get expand over time?
@@jaredclark7271 I do the same thing if I don't have the tool. I try not to leave it on too long and place it into whatever it rides in and let it resize to that.
@@jaredclark7271 They might once they heat up.
You 'da man, Tom. Thank you.
You're welcome.
My tc failed in my 6l80e for my 2010 silverado. My question is if I rebuild with the trans, will i need to reprogram the tehcm if I’m not replacing that?
No. But you should reset the adaptives and relearn the shifts.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission how would I go about doing that ?
@@CurmudgeonTransmissionalso do I need. Transmission tube if I am doing a transformer shift kit I was told I would
Lube always helps.@@GZGUANAJUATO
You need a scan tool that is capable of it. It is usually found under special tests or functions.@@GZGUANAJUATO
GM makes three different thickness slides and rotors. You pick the correct one based on the depth of the pump bore in the bellhousing. You should not have more than .002" clearance.
I know that now, didn't when I did this video. We seldom get to use the factory stuff, they are getting these repaired and they are only offering the one slide set up from GFX-Pro. Doing 2-3 of these a week now. Becoming the new 4L60E. Used to do 5-6 a week of those. Thanks for sharing that info.
Anything that you can think of? I am by trade a GM tech but since doing things on my own I have ventured out in some of the foreigns and nearly every type of domestic vehicles.
Also make sure that if you put a EPC solenoid on it it is the same color. I have the tech for which solenoid goes in what at work. Will look at it Monday. If I don't get back to you on Monday send me a reminder.
Ok
1995-1996 use the green solenoid, 1997 and up use the red.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Ok. Thanks for the information.
Looking for some more help sir had a 6l80 come back and it is slipping in reverse of all things any ideas before removal and tear down of what might to look for and as always thanks for all information and hope you don't mind me asking questions seem to be one of the best I have ever seen with a transmission
I appreciate that. Check your line pressure before you pull it out. Could be a problem with the pump not producing enough pressure. Gasket blown out between the stator and cover. Cracked drum. Something with the center support. Valve body. Techm (very rare). Since you are only complaining about reverse, I would bet something in the pump. What all was replaced during the build? Any codes?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I replaced torque converter, filter, banner kit bushing kit, piston kit, cooler flow bypass delete, after market Trans cooler, bell housing pump assembly, updated pressure regulator valve part number s45507ap-1, updated clutch select and tcc valve part number t45741sc, and all parts I get are from WIT vehicle has no codes and my scanner only gave me one pressure live data and started around 30psi at idle and power braking to like 2,000rpms drive or reverse went to about 92psi
Pressure is way too low. When you got the pump from WIT did you take all the valves and the stator off and clean it out? If not, you need to. WIT pumps are full of debris. They do not clean them out. Also have had a problem with the slide getting stuck because of the way they machine them. Always take the slide and buff a 45-degree angle on the upper and lower slide stops on the O-ring side. That will help with that. Don't take much, just take the edge off. Think your problem is in the pump.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you sir for all the help as always
@@CurmudgeonTransmission different scan tool other one was giving weird live data on line pressure now it just says calculated line pressure 1500 rpms in reverse have 230psi 90psi at idle in drive 1500 rpms 150 psi at idle 75psi
Curmudgeon transmissions where are you located?
Sorry I don't give that info out, been asked a bunch. No offense.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission it's fine I understand and thank you, I just would like you to live near of my town to take my 2014 gmc sierra to fix the transmission.
Once again, thank you very much.
@@benitoreyes9543 If you are looking for a shop go to the ATRA ( Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Association ) and go to the shop finder tab. At least you have a better chance of finding a good shop. www.atra.com/
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you Sir.
@@benitoreyes9543 You're welcome.
Master at the trade. Awesome.
Too kind, thanks for watching.
It does have engine light on. I will look about that.
Let me know what the code or codes are and we will go from there.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission The only trans shop I trust is off for the holiday. I will have them check the code and go from there. I will let you know what I find out. Thanks!
@@CurmudgeonTransmission The Snap On guy stopped by and checked the truck. He said it showed a knock sensor error and a trans code of PO741.
@@matthewneely9482 P0741 is torque converter stuck off. You are probably going to find that your torque converter is coming apart. Like I said most common problem with them. Stems from a worn out valve body. Pull the pan, if there is fine metal the torque converter is coming apart. Usually there is a huge pile of it, but not always. IF there is NO debris you might can put the Sonnax Zip kit in the valve body. I would put the pressure switch repair kit in it also. More than likely you are looking at a rebuild with torque converter. When these converters come apart they eat up the pump surfaces. I have had great success resurfacing them myself with scrotch brite pad and die grinder. I know a lot of people in the industry frown upon that but I have only had a problem with 2 of them after doing it. If it needs a rebuild, bare minimum I would do would be a kit with clutches, filter, bushing kit, zip kit, pressure switch kit and more times than not the molded 4-5-6 pistons are starting to have little strings of the rubber coming off. Depending on the year, if it is early enough it does not have the sealing rings on the pump that DO NOT rotate it needs to be updated and if it is that early replace the 1-2-3-4 piston with the updated one. Here are some part numbers for you Sonnax #124740-30K pressure switch kit, if whoever does it does not have the tool, 124740-TL30, tool will come with it. # 104960-01K better 4-5-6 piston kit. #6L45-6L90-ZIP zip kit. #104984-01 1-2-3-4 piston. As far as the pump goes I would get one from the dealer, yes they are pricey but they work. There are places that reman them, only place I had that worked was Bishop's, they are in Texas, Dallas area. I would NOT get one from WIT, never had one that worked from them. There is a guy in Georgia they say his works well also, the person that told me that I can trust. I am sure there are others, but I don't personally know how good they are. There was a guy close to me that did them also but they lost their guy that did them so now it's back to the way I did them before. Precision of New Hampton is building a billet torque converter for them and that is what we have switched to. Now I have not run into it on Chevy's yet but on Nissan vehicles if you have a knock sensor code it will keep the transmission from working properly. Might be worth having that problem looked at first. Could also be the converter is making enough noise the knock sensor is picking it up. Pulling the pan would be a good tell. Good luck.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I have had my suspicions it would eventually have to be rebuilt. I dont need to drive it. I purchased it to pull a stock trailer. I will pull the pan and see what I find. I hope the trans shop I have in mind is up to date on this transmission. Thanks for your insight and your time for responding.
Man o man do not use air tools on aluminum torque to spec.. I know the pan is only 80 inlbs. The valve body is 71 inlbs. Everything internal is 80 inlbs or less. The tail housing is 48 ftlbs, fluid pump cover to trq converter housing is only 97 inlbs. These are straight from GM Repair Manual. Thanks for the video. It looks simple enough. I never seen that type of snap ring pliers before, who made them & a part numbering possible. Thanks Tom.
Kent Moore J-45126
You’re supposed to load torque that stator shaft when you tighten those short bolts. If you don’t that plate will move small amounts under higher power and spit that seal out and burn all those clutches up when it loses pressure
You are correct. At the time this video was made that was not known. At the seminar's they would tell you not to take it out. But the gaskets were blowing out anyways. So they started telling you to take it out and replace the gasket. Yet they were still blowing out on some units. Then they came out with the steel gasket. Shortly after that they figured out it was because on some the stator was shifting because it was not preloaded. Think that came out in the seminar in the last year or so. Since I have been preloading them I have only felt 1 that moved when I loaded it, but that is all it takes. Guess I should do a video on it, as a supplement. BTW, to those that are reading this comment. Preload it clockwise. Thanks for the comment, and for watching.
Unbelievable amount of engineering in an automatic transmission. All so women can drive......
More and more complicated every day.
Translation please
Are you wanting the whole video translated? TH-cam should do that automatically.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I don't know.
Translation
TH-cam doesn't translate.
OK, I think you are wanting to know what a curmudgeon is. It is an ill-tempered old person.
I'm using Google translation.
Just by your transmission from ete and pay somebody $500 to change it out
18:00 tool abuse!!
Sorry it offended you but it can take it, it's Snap On.
Everything needs replacement and soak ALL PARTS IN TRANNY FLUID, MAKE UPGRADES TO THE OPINION GEARS AD EXTRA CLUTCHES! I'LL TAKE MY BUSINESS ELSEWHERE, HAVE A GREAT DAY
Nice video
Thanks