This STUPID Fertilizer Experiment Killed EVERY ONE Of My Plants!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ก.ค. 2024
- I took popular fertilizers with very different NPK ratios and tested them in a controlled experiment to attempt to answer one of the biggest gardening questions: does NPK ratio matter, and does changing NPK ratios influence plant growth and behavior? The results of this experiment shocked me, and I learned more about fertilizers as a result.
This fertilizer experiment took place over 70 days. I will take you through the entire experiment from start to finish, as well as explain what the NPK ratio is, how NPK ratios can affect plant growth and much more.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
0:00 The Fertilizer Test Experiment
1:24 NPK Ratio Explained
2:33 MiracleGro Fertilizer Analysis
3:31 The NPK Ratio Theory
4:56 Mixing Water Soluble Fertilizers
5:58 Making Potting Mix And Test Plants
7:53 The Fertilizing Schedule
9:15 How To Fertilize The Test Plants
10:23 Two Weeks Later
11:24 70 Days Later
12:39 Why I Think The Experiment Failed
17:04 My Thoughts On Synthesized Fertilizers
20:17 Adventures With Dale
If you have any questions about how to fertilize a vegetable garden, want to know about the things I grow in my raised bed vegetable garden and edible landscaping food forest, are looking for more gardening tips and tricks and garden hacks, have questions about vegetable gardening and organic gardening in general, or want to share some DIY and "how to" garden tips and gardening hacks of your own, please ask in the Comments below!
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#gardening #garden #gardeningtips #fertilizer #experiment
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If you enjoyed this video, please "Like" and share it to help increase its reach! Thanks for watching 🙂TIMESTAMPS for convenience:
0:00 The Fertilizer Test Experiment
1:24 NPK Ratio Explained
2:33 MiracleGro Fertilizer Analysis
3:31 The NPK Ratio Theory
4:56 Mixing Water Soluble Fertilizers
5:58 Making Potting Mix And Test Plants
7:53 The Fertilizing Schedule
9:15 How To Fertilize The Test Plants
10:23 Two Weeks Later
11:24 70 Days Later
12:39 Why I Think The Experiment Failed
17:04 My Thoughts On Synthesized Fertilizers
20:17 Adventures With Dale
what about that "miracle gro soil"? I used it to plant grass seed and the grass turned yellow! Must be the same problem - no trace nutrients - good theory! I've been adding mulched grass and that seems to be saving the grass.
Love the pumpkin recipe. Dale is very much loved and spoiled as they should all be. You and Britney are awesome parents. I think your theory sounds very logical, like plants, we need trace minerals along with the vitamins. We could possibly die if we totally lacked some of them as well. What do you about a vegan fertilizer experiment?
Reminds me of the urine VS miracle grow experiment. I'm still hoping you revisit that one with a 1/3 compost mix rather than 100% coir.
Learn the difference between a theory and a hypothesis. But you're right.
I've a question for you.. WOULD it be possible to get srigs of your figs? 3-5 from each tree?? Instead of mowing them?? I used to have a family tree over 100 yrs old but when my dad died I lost the tree. I really want to start with good strong plants. I believe you have good ones..
I'm so grateful that you didn't delete the failed experiment. I find these types of videos more educational and helpful to me as a gardener. Nothing beats a living biome in your soil!
Unlike Laura/Garden Answers who might mention a failed planting only if enough people comment on it, but even then it's very "oh I don't know what happened" followed by a quick shrug & off to the next topic. She's not a gardener..... she's a plant hoarder
This is a failed conclusion to a failed experiment....
So do I. I honestly learned more making this video than I have any other videos this year. I am happy to share the experience with the community.
This is what is so important. Without these honest, fair, and truthful results, any garden video could lead someone to copying it, and having disasterous results without the huge funding to fix it (that some other channels have). Thank you so much. This is as shocking as the Miraclegro vs. Kellogg's results by EpicGardening, and the Miralegro vs urine conclusion from your own channel.
The lesson I draw from this is that you can't go wrong with quality topsoil and compost as a healthful basis for plant growth.
What I think I learned is that $7 boxes of MiracleGro aren't enough to satisfy the needs of plants. They work great to boost plants when given supplemental organics and healthy soil, but they're not enough on their own. From now on, I'll look at them more like a supplement than actual food.
@@TheMillennialGardener you can't draw that conclusion from this experiment. I'm pretty sure those products aren't meant to be used in a nearly inert medium.
Remember too that we don't "feed" plants. They make their own food. We provide the nutrients they need to make that food. And technically plants make that food from carbon hydrogen and oxygen (pretty much from the air).
@@TheMillennialGardener That's the wrong conclusion to reach
I think that what you discovered is what I've believed and practiced for years. Fertilizers are simply an ammendment that should only be used if your soil is lacking necessary nutrients and you want instant results. When building soil those ammendments can be sourced naturally and are superior to the commercial NPK fertilizers. We always tended our compost heaps and supplemented beds with organic mushroom compost from local growers. Long term this is the only way to go in my opinion. I know too many gardeners who go the synthetic and even organic fertilizer route and the long term results are less than desirable.
@@JohnJohn-wr1jo Yep. I know a place where digested sludge from a wastewater treatment plant is dumped. The tomatoes and other vegetables growing there are absolute giant and lush. Too bad its human waste with unknown metals contamination.
You were basically trying to run a hydroponic dutch bucket system but failed when you added peat moss which is organic and holds on to way too much water . Additionally, it has the potential to significantly change the ph of the medium to very acidic, locking out many nutrients and preventing availability to the plants. You should repeat the experiment with only perlite. It is not organic and won't add anything to the system, unlike peat moss when it breaks down. Set up the same experiment but this time, wash off the dirt from the roots as best as possible and then plant in perlite. Set up a watering schedule for 4-6 times per day for a minute or so and drain to waste. That way you will see the affects from only the fertilizer and not the decomposing peat moss. No offence, but i think your theory of why that experiment failed is way out in left field and has nothing to do with miracle grow not providing various micronutrients. I think it failed due to nutrient lockout and lack of oxygen to the roots.
This 100%
Correct. It’s a hydroponic experiment. Hoocho grows in straight coir without draining. Tons of food. Rerun the Miracle Grow experiment after mastering fundamentals of hydroponics.
I was thinking similar. Ph, ec and ppm probably need to be considered; similarly to inert cannabis grows (I’m a noob)
Bravo. Yeah I think soil that's oversaturated with water has straight up murdered my plants before. It creates an anaerobic environment around the roots so the only things going on biologically are decay.
Whenever a transplant's growth is stalled , or I miss the schedule to take starts out of the cells and transplant into bigger pots or into the ground...I use a very diluted solution of hydro chemicals (tomato blend). This technique has worked flawlessly. If I were to use Miracle Grow instead? Death and Damnation.
There may be another factor at play here and it doesn't have anything directly to do with the micros, and you kinda answered it yourself. First you added dissolved fertilizer every 2 weeks into an inert medium. The plants had a feast or famine feeding. The inert media has no nutritional carry over. Any organic such as compost, fish fertilizer etc breaks down slowly, even when pre-digested and continues to feed for many days/weeks after application. That is why when used as a supplement to the liquid fertilizer solution the plants do better.
If you were to ration out the same amount of liquid fertilizer into your daily watering schedule so in 2 weeks the same dose was applied, I say your plants would have done much better.
Hydroponics works the same way with diluted doses applied daily over time and the plants thrive...For your consideration. Happy gardening.
That is another possibility as well.
I think the plants would have had a better shot had I fed them less but a lot more often, but seeing the results of the experiment, I'm very much convinced it was a micro-nutrient deficiency. If you look at the labels at 2:50, they aren't very impressive, especially when you compare them to my big back of Jack's 20-20-20, which contains more things. I'm going to have to re-structure the experiment to account for these missing micros/secondary macro's. I think MiracleGro is less expensive than Jack's and other water soluble fertilizers for a reason. They don't have the trace nutrient content.
@@TheMillennialGardener You should be able to identify exactly which micronutrient deficiency they had as the symptoms are quite varied. You can't because that's not what caused your plants to die. As an elder millennial (born in 82) I probably had more experience as an 18 year old growing weed in my basement with miracle grow potting mix and miracle grow 15-30-15 alone than you do now. I used the small scoop per gallon to fertilize (not feed because plants eat light, I don't say I'm feeding myself when I take a vitamin) If you use a huge dose of fertilizer like you did you better be damn sure the soil never dries out at all because that will concentrate the salts and burn your plants.
But go ahead and disregard my comment like you're doing with everyone else because you did your research and noticed there are more ingredients in one brand than another. A lot of those extra micronutrients are added in hydro formulations because it's common to use RO water, tap water has plenty of micros. Peat moss and coco coir are technically compost and have trace minerals in them as well.
I grow in inert material (coco+perlite) and if I did not water with fertilizer every time I would have some serious deficiencies. The work around to that would be slow release granules but even with that the results aren't so great.
Peat has a good cation exchange capacity. It helps to use dolomite lime as a pH buffer. If you are not adding compost for micronutrients, it is important to fertilize with hydroponic solution that contains the full range of usable nutrients.
Every experiment is supposed to have a "control". Your results dont mean much without one. In this case you should have had 2 more pots with the same soil but you dont add any food, water only. You could have had an additional 2 more pots on top of that in which you fed with organic food, be it granular mixed into the medium or water sol. or w/e. Always use a control.
My challenge as a retired person is to keep the garden free. I rely on compost and i compost everything. My yields are plenty for me.
That's my formula to, keep it simple.
I've been fermenting weeds from my garden. Two weeks and smelly but THEE best. I always have enough for that and just started up my composting bins. I was converted by watching Charles Dowdy here on YT.
Check your local recycling center/landfill or county transfer station. Often times, they offer free or very inexpensive load-your-own mulch or compost.
Yes I get mine free from a nursery by my house!@@TheMillennialGardener
I’ve done that, but no more because of potential weed killer and other bad stuff in compost from unknown sources.
As someone who does nutrient IV therapies in humans, I feel it’s similar-one cannot take a big concentration of any nutrient. Minerals often share channels and too much of one will block absorption of others. You can cause cardiac arrest by taking too much potassium, or magnesium, as it crowds out calcium which shares the same uptake channel (e.g. tunnel)
The soil got too high of a fertilizer concentration is my guess
Not at all. I believe the exact opposite is true. There wasn't nearly enough food and nutrients. This is explained at the end of the video.
@@TheMillennialGardener ok thanks , I just got to the end of the video
@@TheMillennialGardeneryou can grow in pure peat moss and you'll only notice a lack of nutrients by the leaves turning lighter and lighter green and becoming weaker and weaker of a plant , those fertilizers are the problem. Worm castings contain all the needed nutrients , you can just add worm castings to your soil and you'll get purely benifets without any worry of putting to much, if you put 20 grains of the average store baught fetilizizer in a pot you'll kill 99% of plants , those fertilizers should only be used in outdoor soil watered in for a yr before you plant anything, direct use fries plants
@@TheMillennialGardener Even though they were grown outdoors I think you should have used the indoor tiny side of the spoon because they were grown in pots. Good luck next time with the manure compost and maybe put out a pot with 1/4 strength of this fertilizer mix to prove me wrong. Consider looking up EC tables for hydroponic growing solutions and comparing it to what you ended up making. Even though you were not trying to your use of an inert grow medium took you from gardening into hydroponics and tomatoes require a 2 to 3 dS m-1 strength nutrient solution.
@@TheMillennialGardeneralso peat moss and coco are both rly bad , coco contains tons of salt that can't be removed and kills plants, peat is extremely acidic so all store baught peat is treated with calcium carbonate and when the calcium is flushed out it becomes deadly to most plants , worm castings contain everything a plant needs and is the only median that you can use 100% as your median and get perfect harvests that are super large fruits. There is no such thing as an inert median that plants can grow in like soil , perlite won't work by itself as a median and neither will rock wall or clay pellets, funnily enough clay itself is the only completely inert median in nature but it has to be made into pellets for it to be well draining and than it's not able to hold enough water
I've used Miracle Grow on my plants for 60 years along with other organic and non organic fertilizers. I worked for a huge greenhouse back in the early 1970's, which supplied all kinds of flowers to many of the florists in the whole valley. They used a water soluble fertilizer every time they watered their plants, but they only used half of the amount of fertilizer. I use miracle grow on my garden and grow tomatoes 10 feet high with a basket of tomatoes per plant. I know from years of gardening that potted plants will never do as good as plants grown in the garden.
Sure, I agree, plants are always going to grow better in real soil. But this was an experiment, not plants that were actually going in the garden. Seeing the results, I'll make some modifications and re-run the experiment.
A commercial Gardener taught me the same thing and I use mine half strength also, on potted plants and what's in the garden.
@@kerryalbritton6532 I feel like if you were going to use half strength in this experiment where he used coco coir instead of potting soil/garden mix/compost/etc, he would most definitely need to feed more frequently.
They used half strength so they don’t grow.
I use full strength in coco every day.
You can’t just sprinkle or use a spoon.You need a scale and a meter to fertilize like this.
I promise that my tomatoes in bags grow bigger,better,and definitely fruit more.
I got over 350 tomatoes on one plant of Amish paste
@@TheMillennialGardener
Get a tester if you want to fertilize like that.
Glad you still posted it, there is always something to learn in the garden!
Dang man, those over-wintered peppers look more like small trees. Amazing.
Those are actually pepper plants! I'm looking to do the same with mine so hopefully they end up like that someday.
@@NicolaiAAA You're right, I guess I had tomatoes on my mind 😂
I have datil and tabasco pepper plants 10 years old that have trunks. Including a Carolina reaper that is 4 years old and has a woody trunk also. I live in Florida and protect them from our occasional freezing temps.
It's incredible. I am going to try to get that one pepper to Year 10 😆 What's amazing is they produce *all winter long!* The production is lower, and they don't get nearly as spicy as they do during the warm weather, but I truly harvest them year round.
Yeah they look lovely! I would love a video about these plants, how do you prune them and overwinter them, how do you prune you bell peppers in the beginning for more growth later on?
As far as I remember, peat moss is used to lower the ph of the soil. I guess tomatoes don't like such an acidic environment.
Tomatoes like acidic soil. And the peat moss you get these days doesn’t really have that low of pH. And the science behind peat moss and studies have shown that the lowering of pH caused by peat moss is totally diminished in a week’s time. Coco peat also isn’t peat moss and the pH range pf coco peat is inline with what tomatoes want.
I use peat moss for Blueberries, works awesome for helping acidity the soil.
Thought it was only sphagnum Peat moss for acidity
Tomatoes love an acidic environment. I don't think the issue is with peat moss. All my potted plants, including all the giant tomatoes under my shade cover, are grown in the exact same mix. The only difference is that I add compost and mulch on top, and I fortify the soil with bone meal and organic 5-5-5. I think that MiracleGro products are just not designed to be the *only* thing you give your plants. They're made to enhance growth, not be the only thing given.
@@1165slugman If you do the research most of American potting soils based on peat moss have a relatively neutral pH. It has nothing to do with soil pH. Coco peat has been an issue for years in the nursery trade. Countries like the UK that have banned sphagnum peat moss are struggling with using Coco peat. It’s an okay media if you mix it in soil blends. By itself it’s horrible solo media.
I love that you didn’t scrap this video and I love that. We all learn something new and I appreciate the time it takes to do these experiments but I felt I learned something new and I’m a big user of miracle, but I will be changing over to the jobes organic soon.
I'm glad the video provided some insight.
I think it's awesome that you did this experiment. Every gardener experiences a failure, and this helps us to understand what a contributing factor might be. This is great information to have.
Thank you so much for posting this video and allowing the discussion in the comments. I have learned so much. I’m looking forward to your next experiment. That is one of the great things about science: the results, regardless of whether they are predictable or not, teach us something.
i basically found you last week but wish i found you years ago, youre a tremendous well of knowledge and what i love is you giive us the disasters and not just the bounties....because where i live....its a lot of trial and error and a lot of disasters with a wee bit of bounties! i just learned so much from this video , thank you so so much!!!
Guess the poison is always on the dose, love your videos man. No other gardener challanges old traditions like you do. Your take on the prunning aspect was mind blowin' 🤯
I think his growth medium was set up to fail from the start. You can't grow hydroponic in soil. It's a straight up anaerobic environment which only kills and decays plants.
This is how I learn to be a better gardener. I like running these experiments to see what happens. It's the only way we'll know for sure. It's not just about testing the upper limits of plants. It's also about trying to break them to see what makes them fail. I learned more from this experiment than anything else I've done so far in 2024. I'm glad to share it with everyone.
@@TheMillennialGardener That's definitely the right spirit to have with a gardening TH-cam channel. Thanks for sharing your results.
I find pruning not to be as detrimental as you think. I have natural pruners in deer, rabbits, hail, and frost, which have all knocked back my plants, but the strong survive and, in most cases, thrive.
I'm glad you filmed this and posted, a lot to learn from it and from the responses. Keep up the good work
Another great discussion about soil composition. This is my biggest challenge with growing vegetables consistently year after year. I've made changes in the composition with different additives, and each time, it drastically impacts the growth of my plants. I have never found the best combination, but I have learned much from your educational videos. I said this before, but it's worth repeating: you have a great way of getting right to the point with clear, understandable language. Much appreciated.
I think this highlights the importance of a good micro biome of the soil.
@@JamesJones-gj1ii Agreed. I prefer using organic fertilizers in my vegetable garden (I grow in raised beds) because they bring so much more life to the soil. I do use synthetic fertilizer (Proven Winners Water Soluble Fertilizer) to water my flowering annuals, but they are in containers on my deck, so soil life isn’t as important.
Yes, and the incompleteness of inexpensive synthesized fertilizers. Products like MiracleGro do work, but only in addition to healthy soil and organics.
I had the worst spring in memory here in NE Texas. So much rain and thought everything would die. I'm not a very experienced garderner, only on my fourth year now. Used cow manure for the first time, as well as worm castings and it changed everything. I have grown Cherokee purple tomatoes every year and have had terrible results. They produced for maybe a month and were done. I put worm castings and bone meal in the planting hole. I also sprayed my plants with aspirin this year, before they went out in the garden. I fertilize with fish fertilizer only, and maybe once a month. It's been hot for a few weeks and my plants are still giving tomatoes. I don't use shade cloth, mainly because I can't afford it, but still have no stressed plants. Maybe I'm just lucky this year.
Oh, and I haven't had a single pest on my tomatoes this year. Last year they were devoured by leaf-footed bugs, and I had tomato horn worms....
which you cannot get from miracle-gro . . its just another pharmaceutical attack on Humanity. informed people never use miracle-gro or peat-moss in their land/soil
I think the experiment was a total success! You were able to show that the base soil is very important. Fertilizers are great for additional nutrition, but you have to start off with something good.
I'd love to see you use the initial soilless mix and add your homemade compost. Understood that everyone's compost will be different, but I'd like to see what that does for a plant. You could make it even more interesting by adding your Jacks 20-20-20 to one of the plants and not to the other.
I experiment all the time with my plants. I'm currently growing peppers in a 6" wide x 8" deep x 24" long railing planter - and I've got 3 plants in each pot. I have to water them a little more because of the heat (I'm in GA), but they're doing very well. I've also got 3 gal pots with a tomato plant in each on the same railing (with a string up to the ceiling to train the plants on) and have had a respectable harvest so far.
Keep it up!
Is anyone else in the southeast experiencing a huge infestation of Japanese Beetles this year? Neem oil w/Castille soap isn’t helping my plants or trees. I’m treating the ground with Milky Spore in August, but this is insane (we’ve only been here 2 years and it’s so different growing here vs southern Ca. Big bug learning curve here!
@@privateprivate1914 I've only heard mention of it once or twice, but no one, to my knowledge, is having an issue. Use the bags with the pheromone bait in them. Put them well away from the plants they're invading and you'll see a difference. I had them pretty bad when I first moved to this house about 28 years ago, but I haven't seen any in years. I used the bait and it seemed to work really well.
Thank you for the reply! Yes, I have 2 of the bags with pheromone hanging far enough away (and they are filling up), but there are soooo many that I think I’ll need 20+ more bags - they are attacking all of my small, new fruit trees, strawberry bed and veggies too😢
I think that's what I am going to do next year. I'll use the same mix, but I'll add a bag of soil conditioner or cow manure compost to bring the medium to life. Then, I'll stick with the inexpensive MiracleGro products and see what happens. I think that will still tell a good story, but the plants will grow much better.
@@privateprivate1914I’ve seen alot of posts from gardeners all over, complaining about them. Esp. The northern east coast.
This is why I grow in-ground. So much less to worry about as far as fertilization and watering. I both fertilize and water my plants, but you can get by with doing neither and odds are your plants will produce something. I had a few volunteer tomato plants pop up in my pollinator garden last year that I didn't notice until later in the summer and they produced tomatoes with ZERO intervention from a human. No watering, no fertilizing and no staking and pruning.
Personally I thank you for both the success & “failure” videos. I’m a beginner gardener (been gardening for about 3 years) & continue to struggle with my garden. I learn more each year from others as well as my own experience in the garden from year to year. And I think I learn more from the “failures” than from what was done right. So keep it up. I appreciate all of the experiences that I can learn from. Besides experimenting is fun and educational & I’m definitely all about learning. And I love how you include clips with Dale at the end of all your videos. I have 3 doggos who regularly join me in the garden. Happy gardening everyone!🥒🥕🌻
You should have pulled the plants and showed us the roots. I suspect they were minimal.
They weren't bad. I pulled the plants and re-used the potting mix to up-pot some fig trees.
From my understanding, because both coco coir and perlite are completely inert in nature, they don't even have much nutrient retaining capacity. So after fertilizing, anything that runs out the bottom isn't even feeding the plant. And any time the plant is watered between feedings, any nutrients that do manage to stick around are washed out the bottom. It sounds like the poor plants just starved to death. Peat moss (controversy aside) retains a lot more nutrients, so maybe even changing that variable could make a big impact on the experiment?
I love your experiments. Thank you for taking the time to make those kind of videos as they are very important. Last Fall, I emptied my matured compost and dug it into my veggies beds. In March, I started my heirloom tomatoes (from my saved seeds) in a sterile potting soil intended for indoor plants, rather than in a seed starting soil. As soon as the first true leaves appeared, I started feeding them with half of the recommended doze of Miracle Grow water soluble 20-20-20 fertilizer. Later, I transferred the seedlings into 750 g yogurt containers (with drainage holes). I added some Miracle potting soil mixed with a bit of bone meal. By now, the seedlings did not fit under my grow lights, so I placed them inside my flimsy cold frame. When overnight frost was forecasted, I brought them indoors for the night and took them back out in the morning. This back and forth was going on for about two weeks. After the last frost date, I was ready to plant them into the ground. I put a handful of pelleted chicken manure, that contained calcium into each planting hole, lightly dusted the entire bed with dolomite calcium and watered each plant with transplanting fluid to prevent transplanting shock. Now, I continue to feed them every 10 - 14 days with Miracle Grow water soluble 20-20-20. My indeterminate heirloom tomatoes are growing strong 1' thick main stem and are 10 feet tall. I am harvesting fruit, that is noticeably bigger than it in the previous years. I believe that I have finally discovered the winning combination of organic + synthetic, from seed germination to harvest. By the way, I treated my peppers exactly the same as the tomatoes. Out of 8 pepper plants of the same variety, only one had end of blossom rot. At my ripe age, after gardening for the past 45 years, I finally started writing notes in my 1st gardening journal.
I had a huge problem like that. It was a fertilizer formula that someone on Instagram posted where you add yeast and sugar and water and a little bit of Epson salt or wood, and I tried it on a couple of my plants and one of them completely died, and another one almost all of them died never again.
do you think you put to much on? i saw that yeast and sugar is good but scared to try it
@@lorikrafft8197 There is no scientific evidence that feeding plants sugar is conducive to plant health. On the contrary, it can harm your plants and even kill them what it does is keeps the plant from taking up the right nutrients. I've been doing some experiments of my own and haven't been successful thus far. I'll stick to what I learned I lost about 8 plants doing different experiments that I thought was gonna work.
@@lorikrafft8197 There is no scientific evidence that feeding plants sugar is conducive to plant health. On the contrary, it can harm your plants and even kill them because it keeps the plants from taking in the right nutrients it needs. I'll stay to what I learned I lost 8 plants doing experiments with different fertilizer and thus far had no luck. Cause the fertilizer didn't have the other nutrients and micros needed to survive! Lesson learned on my part never again
@@lorikrafft8197 There is no scientific evidence that feeding plants sugar is conducive to plant health. On the contrary, it can harm your plants and even kill them it keeps them from taking in the right nutrients and micros I've done a few experiments and had no luck I'll stick to what I learned never again I lost 8 plants!
Why would that be good? That would only dope the soil with CO2 and possibly even leave them sitting in alcohol. You need oxygen to be available to the soil in order to prevent an anaerobic environment.
I always dilute it to half of the labeled dosage. I use miracle grow on my strawberries and hydroponic system, and they are totally fine.
But I'm guessing the strawberries are growing in living soil, which contains enough nutrients that the weaknesses in the fertilizers don't show. That was my conclusion.
@@TheMillennialGardener the key is diluting the solution, some plants are able to withstand the labeled dosage, but not majority of plants. I have a EC meter and I test the EC level to be safe for my plants.
What hydroponic system are you using? I'm researching the Kratky method, and they don't recommend Miracle Gro All Purpose.
@@TheMillennialGardener No, people plant amazing gardens in sand and sawdust every year. Where you messed up is you only used fertilizer and not the other micro nutrients that's on you not the fertilizer.
@@chrisp308that’s exactly what he concluded at the end.
Love your videos, especially the videos that experiments. Experiments are how we learn. If you do what you have always done, you will get what you always got. I learned so much with this experiment.
This is a great experiment. You may not have grown gardens but you are growing gardeners. This information gave us so much information without needing to do the test ourselves. Please continue to do this type of testing.
Love the honesty makes me love this channel even more
I think you're on the right track with nutritional deficiencies, but I think it's secondary nutrients that are missing not trace nutrients. None of the formulas have any calcium, only the tomato formula has magnesium, and the all purpose and tomato have low levels of sulfur while the bloom booster has virtually no sulfur.
The Bloom Booster not having any meaningful Sulfur certainly makes me wonder if that was the reason those plants didn't make it, as Sulfur is very important for plants.
It'd be interesting to run the same experiment again but supplement the missing secondary nutrients to see how that changes things.
I was thinking this and was going to comment the same thing.
I agree-it’s notable that there isn’t any Ca & the differences in the Mg and S. (I found this out a couple of years ago when some of my tomatoes got blossom-end rot even though they had been getting a nice weekly drink of 1/2 strength tomato miracle gro…then I read the small print on the boxes!)
Hey man. Just wanted to say I loved the experimental style of this video.
I'm very glad to hear it was worthwhile to conduct!
Totally enjoyed this experiment. Thank you for all your efforts in sharing it with us!😃
Peat moss is organically inert... but not chemically inert... you need black peat to be as close to chemically inert as possible...
Highly decomposed peat will tend to remain more chemically stable as the organic decomposition process has already been carried out. For this reason you want to buy what is commonly known as “black peat” (H7-H10) where microbial activity has already dialed down and the peat moss more closely approaches what we would call an “inert media”. This however does not mean that Peat moss is chemically inert at this point as it does contain as a significant amount of substances that can affect your nutrient solution.
One main characteristic of peat is that it’s acidic. This means that the pH of untreated peat will usually be between 3 and 4.5, too low for use in hydroponic applications. Peat is generally amended with calcium carbonate (lime) to make its pH go up and remain there but this process can be ineffective if the peat can still decompose very significantly (if you buy peat with decomposition < H7). This also contributes high amounts of Ca into the media which might lead to nutritional problems if Ca is also applied normally in solution. To alleviate these issues peat is also sometimes treated with lime/dolomite mixtures so that the counter-ions are both Mg and Ca. Alternatively - but more expensively - this problem can be solved by using phosphate buffer solutions that are run through the peat for a significant period of time. A potassium monobasic/dibasic phosphate buffer at a pH of 6.5 with a 100 mM concentration can buffer the peat moss. For this the buffer needs to be applied until the run-off pH out of the peat comes out unchanged. Then tap water should be applied to remove the K/P from the media. Note that this will only work for black peat that’s already gone through most of the decomposition process as lighter peats will simply decompose further and acidify the media again.
That’s a great point! Would coco coir have been a better choice for the experiment?
@@lisahand5752yes coco has no nutritional value but he would probably forget to buffer it and another flawed experiment
I always use at half strength. I have use the Mittleider fertilizer with great success in the past.
No garden experiment is a failure. The goal of an experiment is learning and this was a great learning experiment. Thanks for running the experiment and posting it. Setting up a reliable experiment requires a lot of work, not just in the set up, but in the follow through.
I made homemade fish fertilizer this year using flounder I’ve caught. It’s made a big difference to the health of my plants.
Regarding coco coir, I had heard that salt is used in processing it, but if so, and then you add the micronized salt in the urea fertilizer, it's like double salt. I prefer to add both green and brown broken-down matter to make my soil, and supplement with more of this in this mixed with water to ferment for 2 days, then dilute with water and feed. I have also had good luck with pulverized bananas and egg shells in water to provide a boost of growth. It's like a sugar fix but has potassium and calcium, and potassium helps with heat stress. And yes, I use shade cloth too in zone 6B.
no its not processed in salt the salt is procesed out of the coco so it dont kill the plants and the ph is hard to keep with high salt content
they call it buffering
Love the experiment. Very educational. I do have a question. How do you recommend we fertilize in the constant heat. If we are watering everyday and plants don’t get time to uptake nutrients before we water them again next day. I hope that makes sense.
Increase frequency of feeding and cut the concentration to half strength
Thanks for keeping it real by showing honest results. I'd be curious to see if you switched over to the organic fertilizer on the surviving plants if they would turn around.
I think this was a brilliant experiment! There are so many folks that try to grow in soil much like what you used. I do learn so much from gardeners that are learning right beside me…yep ☺️ I love the comments from those that have extra knowledge that I can add to my brain bank! I think you are the first Gardner I have seen do this type experiment! Thank you!
out of all the fertlizers I've used, nothing beats good old blood, fish and bone for me. Every so often I just mix some into the top of the soil and water it in, can always see a big difference after I do it too. I don't really care to use specific fetlizer's, I've personally not seen any differerence when I use tomato fertilizer vs the bFB combo during the flowering/fruiting phase.
I agree with most of the stuff we grow (except for crazy crops like corn and watermelons), but I believe it's very important that gardeners run stress tests like this to find out what doesn't work. These plants were sacrificial experiments, and I'm very glad I did this, because it taught me what the lower limits of plants and fertilizers were. I recommend every gardener try to design experiments and test the limits of the system until failure.
@@TheMillennialGardener ey every garden is different. So maybe that applies to how specific fertlizers react to the plants. My soil is fairly clay but not in a crazy way, it'll probably hold onto liquid nutrients more due to that. It also has a lot of fungi popping up and worms mulling around, so it could be why BFB have pretty quick effects for me.
Didn't peat moss and perlite make up the medium ? Or was it coco coir ? If peat my guess is ph if coco maybe salt build up .... But it most likely a combination of multiple issues and many theories fit or make sense.
Great experiment! And your idea for next year is a good one. I look forward to it!
New to your channel, thank so much for the videos, they've been great. My dad was diagnosed with cancer and had planted some tomatoes and cucumbers and they would've died if I didn't help take care of and I was very nervous to touch because I usually kill most plants. What helped the most was how to pollinate them, watering them correctly, sun/shade, how to prune and feeding them. This video on your experiment helped a lot because that is seriously what happened to me last time I tried and I gave up. I learned so much that I'm going to try some on my own next season!
THANK you -- SUPERIOR information…DALE is enjoying the pumpkin for sure…
You're welcome! Dale is a big pumpkin 😂
well, for one thing... in teh absence of soil micro biome? i doubt the plants were able to uptake most of it.
however
when growing in hydroponics? which your "sterile media" is closest to? you feed with EVERY watering, at a micro dose. low, but continuus dose of fertilizer (and minerals)
I agree, there was no microbiome for the plants. Dead soil = dead plants
Yes! I agree.
It's synthetic nutrients, the plant could uptake it with or without roots, the microbiome wasnt the issue.
Thank you for being our brave Gardener! Always learn something! That's what sharing is all about. ❤❤ to our sweet "boss dog".
Just as it's important to test the upper limits of plants and see how hard we can push them, it's important to test the lower limits and find out where the system fails. This was honestly more enlightening to me than anything I've done in 2024 so far.
It’s nice to know that the manure products I buy and till into my garden soil are very important, more so than the fertilizers I use. I did use the bone meal this year and am having a nice harvest of tomatoes.
The medium became too acidic. In hydroponics, you need to PH balance the fertilizer liquid mix. That would kill the plants alone, it wouldn’t kill the plants if it was PH balanced.
I don't think this is the case. All my tomatoes, cucumbers, squash, figs, etc. in my shade tunnel are grown in the exact same medium. The difference: I add organic 5-5-5, bone meal, I amend the tops with a few inches of compost, and I mulch them. I don't think this has anything to do with pH, because I had similar results when I used coco coir. I think all this shows is that inexpensive fertilizers like MiracleGro aren't nutritionally complete and it cannot be the only thing you give plants in a synthetic medium.
@@TheMillennialGardener I guess compost can alter below soil ph too, idk but it will be really cool to test all of this theories.
@@TheMillennialGardener . All the other supplements you added in other plants with the same fertilizer act as a buffer for PH levels that enhance cations. Look up cation exchange capacity (CEC). I enjoy engineering as much as you!!! It is a difficult question to answer but I think that with the input of your followers, some more possibilities are presenting themselves.
@@TheMillennialGardener . Recommend reading is Soil Science for Gardeners. You will love it. Audio on Audible as well.
Coir is actually alkaline and can buffer pH incredibly well. These were just hungry.
where did you get the green container thing at? thats pretty cool. thanks
It looks like a foldable dog pool but I don’t know what size or where to buy. I love the color. Please tell us where?
It's an old kiddie pool. The bottom is blown out, because those cheap things break down in a season or two in the sun. But, it works great to mix potting soil. It's in really bad shape, though. I'm going to trash it. It's pretty much done 😆
Good morning! first off i appreciate all your content. it has helped me to be a better gardener.
this year i have been reworking my garden adding raised beds and sun screen. when i built my raised beds I filled them with 6 inches of rough cut mulch on the bottom 6 inches then added 8 inches of organic compost to them. please note i live in the Missouri Ozarks so i went to Springfield recycle center and got the mulch for $8 a yard and Hansen's tree service for the compost at $40 per yard. i planted my 8 varieties of tomatoes, peppers, swiss chard, green beans, sunflowers, okra and summer squash. After about 3 weeks my plants (started from seed )
was very pale green and not growing at all the looked like they were dyeing.
i have been gardening for the last 8 years directly in the soil and have had no problem i always add 1/8 cup of 10-10-10 and a table spoon of lime to the holes before i plant my plants and do not fertilize again and we get a large amount of tomatoes. we usually have 15 to 20 tomato plants and this year we have 40 tomato plants. I followed this standard this year also.
Anyway looking at the plants i decided i needed to fertilize so i top dressed with a heave doe of 10-10-10 and then started a weekly watering of Miracle Grow tomato fertilizer like you used.
all of my plants took off an became dark green ad started to grow. since ten i have kept up the weekly dose of Miracle grow and have again top dressed with 10-10-10. also i have added composted manure. to make a long stoy short after much time on the internet i determined that new compost does not have any nutrients in it as it until it starts breaking down. so i should be in better shape next year.
i appreciate your content keep helping us novice gardeners. by the way my wife has demanded all the 36 by 65 ft garden be in raised beds next year :)
I think the pH of peat moss could be a factor. If a plant isn't in ideal pH per that organism, it won't uptake nutrients. I use compost and manure with liquid fertilizer boosts, however I grew hydroponic plants or inert mediums and liquid fertilizers for many years.
So, I believe a crucial missing element to your experiment is pH. Test your rain reservoir, then check your mixtures, and then check the pH of your soil medium with your water, and again with your fertilizer-water mix.
Lots of people grow tomatoes in hydroponic systems, pH is crucial. If the peat is too acidic, and your rainwater is around only 5.5 , tomatoes will struggle. You need that pH boosted up to 6-7
These are the gardening videos I like to see. Experiments are the best way to learn and you did one for me, awesome man!
Yep. Now I know the lower limits of the system where things break. Knowing the breaking point is just as important as knowing how hard you can push things.
@@TheMillennialGardener Agreed brother! 🤝
Ppl grow hydroponically in pure coir or coir/perlite mixes---or in just water. It is likely that the ferts used in hydro have all the required micros in the mix, though.
Thank you for doing this and sharing it!
You're welcome!
Every time we learn something - it’s a success. The pumpkin pancakes for Dale looked very good. 😊
Awesome video. Learned so much. Yes redo this again with different medium. 😊
Thank you for sharing. You are correct we learn from failures as well as success.
You're welcome!
Keep the experiments coming. That’s how we keep open minds and thinking how to move forward with progress.
I’m usinf a combo of granular and liquid feed for just extra quick nutrients
My opinion (I’m new gardener) is that with inert soil, there can be a few extra factors to consider with liquid feeding like ph, ec and ppm. Some cannabis growers tend to use inert soil with only liquid feedings and they are anal about these things. If I remember correctly, feedings outsize the ph range can lead to nutrient lockout, similarly if the ppm is too high, the plant won’t absorb all the nutrients.
I’m learning through others, my failure and if anything I say helps anybody in any possible way, then sweet. If not, I’m just glad to be heard cause I know someone read some of this 😂❤
You are correct. In hydroponics you have to measure everything closely as you described. The EC/PPM would have been far too high. It's actually interesting how long the plants held on...
Samsteel is on the right track. Coco coir/perlite would have done better as it would not lower the PH like Peat moss. That being said, the main issue was PH and not a lack of micronutrients. Even the solution was too acidic and needed to likely be PH'd up to 6.0+/- and you would have had success. Soil would have buffered the PH and would not have required adjustment like the inert material does. The experiment would still have worked in Peat moss had you raised the PH of the fertilizer to compensate for the acidity of the moss. Basically, you locked out the ability for the plant to absorb all the different NPK.
Love this experiment! Learned alot and cant wait till next one!
try the experiment again with compost
That was my conclusion at the end of the video. But it's probably too late in the year to start all over again, so I'll have to wait until next year.
I'm glad i learned alot from you so i did some research over time i use 17 different trace minerals and i add it to peat moss and coca coir to the mix along with some good manure and worm castings and I'll use a water soluble fertilizer once a week my tomato plants are outta control and the watermelons are taking over my garden! What i used is backed by science!
I have a big bag of Azomite that would have done that for me. But, just to be clear, the purpose of my experiment was to test the lower limits of the plants. I didn't want to give them a bunch of stuff to make them succeed. I found a hole in the system, and learning exactly where the system breaks is so important.
@TheMillennialGardener Absolutely and I appreciate you doing that for everyone very educational and a learning experience for sure cause I've learned so much over the last month just binge watching your videos! 👍
Great experiment. I concur with your theory because I've experienced this same issue. I used to use soil from a part of my field, mixed with well broken down wood chip compost and some peatmoss and a small amount of cow manure, all mixed up and screened.
The plants that got this soil mixture thrived, the ones planted in store bought potting soil and fertilized with Miracle Grow did poorly.
My tomatoes the last 2 years were about 10 - 12 feet tall, I was running them as a vine without any lower leaves, mainly 2 stalks each plant of indeterminate. I used a ladder to harvest them! This year, I will run 4 stalks each plant up to 6 feet and then run them down to 1 foot then up again in all 4 directions. Hope that works; I also reduced from 16 plants to 8. My garden is 8X20 feet. Every year it is packed with leaves.
The plant post-mortem ... we've all been here 😭
Yes, please re-do the experiment. Suggestion: Add a control plant so we can see how well the independent variable performs vs. doing nothing. My pepper plants have stopped putting on new blossoms and have thus far seemed immune to water soluble fertiziler. I am gong to try shade cloth next (zone 8a Atlanta, every day is 93 degrees).
Yea, I’d like to see this experiment in a more realistic scenario with normal soil. Just use the same soil for each as a base, keep a control, and then fertilize similarly to this experiment.
The shade cloth will help immensely. It makes a huge difference in this weather. I’m in E TN. So I understand the pain lol
For the last 20 years I've conducted at least two trials every years. I test potting mediums, soil additives, germination mediums and any else that gets me curious.
The most similar trial to this one was to test two different potting mediums using Sweet Million tomatoes. One potting mix was Miracle Gro and the other was my homemade concoction that was primarily homemade compost, peat moss, perlite and Gaia Green 4-4-4.
Both proved successful but the way they got there was quite different. Miracle Gro took a noticeable lead in size and density of the seedling. After about 3 weeks I thought it would prove the winner. But then, my homemade variety quickly caught up and maybe slightly surpassed the Miracle Gro. It was a good thing to know that I could be successful with either.
I should add that I'm not looking for minor differences. At my level of production where I might get (say) 50 pounds of tomatoes one way and 48 (say) pounds another way, that doesn't matter to me. I'm looking for significant differences that I notice by simple observations.
You are a wealth of info. You’re a good teacher. Love your channel. Been gardening for 40 yrs. Always learning. Thanks
Peat moss and perlite is for seed starting.
All my tomatoes, cucumbers, zucchini and figs are planted in peat moss and perlite. It's not just for seed starting. Those plants all love it. *But,* I top the containers with a few inches of compost, then mulch, add bone meal and organic 5-5-5, and I blend fish emulsion into my water soluble fertilizers. I don't think the medium had anything to do with the plant failures. I think what this experiment proved was that a $7 box of MiracleGro isn't designed to be the only thing you ever feed a plant. It's a plant booster, not an all-in-one food that gives every plant everything it needs. Now that I know that for sure, I can make some small changes to avoid it next time.
I don't know that any fertilizer comes complete. When you showed us a picture of one of the boxes it did show some micronutrients that were added to the box.
They do a really good job at adding micro-nutrients, but I don't think any processed fertilizer is ever going to be nutritionally complete. I look at them more like a supplement than real food, especially after this video. Sort of like those "In addition to a healthy diet and exercise" commercials. I don't think it can be all you feed them in an otherwise dead medium.
Great job, I plan to add some compost to my plants today. By the way you didn’t fail, you succeed in teaching us what not to do. I wonder if you could add compost to the ones that lived and they would take off… give it a shot…
Awesome video, I love these experiments you're doing. Very educational regardless the results.
In my experiance, green beans (bush or pole) HATE any miracle grow. Not that beans need much fertilizer but I use a green stalk and tried liquid fert and it killed all the beans, but the leafy greans did fine 🤷♀️
Because beans hate nitrogen. They literally dispose of it in the soil.
I have used bone meal on my bush beans and they have huge dark green leaves. They are beautiful
I would use some portion of soil and compost, that's a real garden situation most people have. Not, peat and perlite.
The goal was to run a controlled experiment, though. Adding too much supplementation will muddy the results. Next time, I will have to add something to the compost to make up for the nutrients the MiracleGro products lack, but I can't add much more. Maybe a small amount of cow manure compost.
I'm do glad you posted this! It wasn't a failure if we still learn from it 💡
Notice how the tops leaves have died before the middle/bottom, where the water needs to travel the most distance. If it cant uptake water, it cant uptake nutrients properly.
I have used water soluble nutrients with peat/ perlite and coco and perlite at least a dozen times and had completely healthy plants from seed to harvest.
Fish fertilizer caused my tomato plants to grow 8 to 10 feet high. They're so tall I can't reach them. Worse yet, the green tomatos are the size of watermellons
Geez. They sound awesome! You can run those indeterminate tomatoes sideways once they reach 5 or 6 feet. Would love to have those green tomatoes to cook. Ummmmm.
This awesome what kind of fertilizers
Alaska 5-1-1 to start and Neptune's 2-3-1 as they bloom. Boom, done.
When I start seedlings, I water the tray with a dilute 5-1-1 fish emulsion and then just water. I'll fertilize them once when they go in the ground and then one more time with neptunes when they're done with veg.
Watermelon? Come on now! 😂
@@deborahdunn7844 Yes!!! Coated with corn meal and fried. Yummy!! Red ones would be great for sandwiches and cooking with recipes. Less chopping.
The peat moss threw the pH out of whack. Plants weren't able to take up the nutrients. Check the pH of the mix in those pots, that will tell the tale.
@@AMBlues That’s exactly what I was thinking too, except he responded to my comment saying that he uses peat moss all the time and that the pH isn’t nearly as low as I thought it was. Oh well. 🤷🏻♂️
@@theteenagegardener Yes but he said it was peat moss then he said it was coco coir.
Yes Thats what I was thinking too. He never checked the ph of the soil and the water which, even though it was the same in all pots, should have been documented if it was a scientific experiment as it was a factor.
I love that you shared this experiment. Speaking from the fact that I have killed thousands (littereally) of seedlings by over-fertilizing, and the evidence of crispy edges on the leaves, the seedlings needed much less fertilizer. I would have loved to see one with only water simply because plants make their own food, through photosynthesis, so it would probably still be alive. It would not thrive, but it is fascinating to see how long a seedling survives with only water. Thank you for your honesty. This is a great experiment, and definitely worth repeating.
You are spot on. It's the same reason that your can't use them in hydroponics. Those are designed assuming there will be trace nutrients
So much wrong with your ‘experiment’. You did not test the null hypothesis and requires one , and for your case, two types of controls, as well as replication. Your plants look to have suffered from salt burn (way too much fertilizer). Note the burned leaves and apical buds. You did not test nutrient balance as you claim. Additionally, your potting mix was likely acidic, which alone would probably be ok but it added insult to injury to your poor plants. You have good ideas but need some professional guidance on how to appropriately test you hypotheses. A good Master Gardener’s course or conversations with your county extension team (free advice from professionals with years of trained experience) will help get you to where you are trying to go with this type of testing. Be careful with your claims and recommendations. In this case it’s horticultural malpractice.
1st… 😊
Thanks for watching!
I think this demonstrates why those who focus on soil health through mulching and composting alone have no issues growing their plants despite not using any added fertilizers. Perma Culture Pastures uses chop and drop of comfrey around all his plants as both a mulch and as it breaks down compost, he also makes his own compost from various sources and makes compost tea, but I have never seen him mention any fertilizers whether organic or synthetic.
Thank you for doing this experiment. It will help me do more for my plants. My tomatoes are not flowering!
Garden experiments are so much fun. Thanks for sharing this one with us.
Often what we learn has less to do about growing our garden and more to do with scientific theory and testing our theory. In this case The Millennial Gardener states he wants to learn "What is the best fertilizer and does NPK really matter". But, the study he undertook actually tested "what happens to tomatoes and peppers, placed in an inert growing medium, when given infrequent feedings of various liquid fertilizers. In other words, it's not a valid test of his initial question.
It also means there are at least five variables to consider in evaluating the outcome, the plants themselves, the growing medium, the fertilizer being applied, the method of application, and the frequency of application. Given that how do we evaluate the results? Here's one of many possibilities: Those of us that are experienced growers know that an inert growing medium does not provide enough nutrients to a plant to sustain life. We also know that the inert mix he selected drains pretty quickly. Since the method of application was a liquid drench, this means the nutrients drained from the medium fairly quickly. Since the frequency of application was every 14 days, this means that the plants were going for 12 or 13 days with no nutrients at all. So, one possible conclusion is that two weeks of starvation followed by a jolt of nutrients is not sufficient for plants to grow.
Given the number of variables, there are other possible explanations for the outcome too, many of which have already suggested.
Again, a fun lesson on how to design a scientific experiment . And, now we know why almost every study ends with a conclusion that "further study is required!"
Great experiment! I learned a lot. Thank you!
You're welcome!
Your conclusion was exactly what I was thinking. FYI, I have used the Flower Food for several years on potted flowers and they always seem to bloom much better a week or two later, which also backs your conclusion. Also, as someone else said, the peat moss may have held too much water (although, not sure if you had a lot of perlite) and made it acidic? Either way, experimenting is fun and useful! Keep up the great work! Now if we can get more rain around here....
Great experiment! Love videos like this. It’s still useful even if it doesn’t work out.
*Great experiment! it was very informative to see just how essential organic matter in the soil is for plants to survive. I'm so happy I used compost in my blueberry potting mixture otherwise I would have been toast... It would be cool if you made a video about what gardeners should use for their blueberry potting mix because when I researched it online everyone had a differnet answer and it was so confusing...* I got inspired to add blueberries to my garden from your videos on blueberries, and I bought the 25 gallon grow bags from your Amazon Store Front too. The potting mixture I used for my highbush blueberries was this: 45% GolfGreen Canadian sphagnum peat moss, 30% compost, 10% miracle grow potting mix 0.21-0.11-0.16, 10% miracle grow perlite 0.07-0.07-0.07, 5% high porosity HP mycorrhizae, and I also added some 4-10-0 GolfGreen bone meal, some jobe's organic 4-4-4, and some eleimental sulfer pellets. It was kind of a guess based on some articles I found online, hopefully it works out well, I'm also using miracle evergreen & acid loving water soluable food to give them a boost until the sulfer pellets kick in. What mixture would you have used? Would love to see a video on this!
-From your Nova Scotia Canadian Subscriber :)
Thank you Anthony for doing this experiment. So appreciated. Would be good to know if there was really much difference in the npk of liquid commercial fertilizers.
My plan forward is to accumulate as much organic matter as I can to incorperate into my soil. Then supplement lightly with commercial.
Its all a learning experience and every growing season is different. Live and learn.
I have to say, I've followed and listened to y, bought the products you suggested and have had success. I've learned lots from you. Thank you.
I have a 2 year old banana pepper. I overwintered tomatoes a couple years ago I found the cool temperatures and slow tomato growth made for wonderfully sweet slicers (I can't remember the variety off hand).
GREAT VIDEO!!!
Can’t wait to see more experiments!!
Thank u for this! Please do more on fertilizing...I'm really struggling...I'm wondering about fish emulsion with these miracle gro's ..I'm trying to find the right balance. Keep bein awesome...you are my favorite garden channel! ❤
🌺Great job, really good information, thank you!
I'm pretty sure they died because peat moss is very acidic as in pH 3-4. It causes nutrient lock out and can burn roots. The only plants that thrive in that are wetland/bog plants. I use this soil mix in my outdoor bog garden that contains my Venus Fly Traps, pitcher plant and sundews which are all carnivorous bog plants.
I really hope you redo this experiment but you need to adjust the pH of the soil with something like lime to neutralize the acidic soil and bring it closer to 6-7 which is what tomatoes prefer. The idea is amazing and I haven't seen anyone try it.