I lived in Goleta, CA from 1991- 1995, and never scored Rincon as small and clean as that! Gorgeous, low tide slides. Years later, on my way home from a work conference in Monterey in February 2013, I finally dialed-in an epic low-tide session at Rincon… 2-3 feet, high-pressure front, afternoon sheet glass, and not a drop of water out of place. TM is an artist and drips style like melted globs of candle wax. His surfing is not unlike viewing Italian Frescos, room to room… engaging, colorful, and unforgettable. Great to see him unwind at the Queen. Stoked!
4:12 Really nicely expressed "..not letting the mind tell the narrative straight up. Just gotta wait for the story to come through your feet almost.." I prefer my old somewhat beat up Simon Jones 'Bali' ? single fin as my daily board and the weight and buoyancy, the geometry and fin mean that, while you can try to surf like on a modern board, it is so much more fun to surf in a feedback based way. It's not quite the same as say a single fin Malibu or how many people seem to ride their 'mid's. It's shortboard riding without controlling the board with a view to dominating the wave, more like a three way conversation between the wave, board and rider. You can still throw in moves, add power into turns and cutbacks, but you're going with the moment, rather than having total control. Never really thought about it, but I think that is what is nice about it.
The discovery of the +_ 7' boards by todays surfers is revealing an era in history that some thought forgettable. There were those in the 80s who didn't like sub 6' but all focus went to this category. Now it gets uncovered like a new thing but it's not.
I lived in Goleta, CA from 1991- 1995, and never scored Rincon as small and clean as that! Gorgeous, low tide slides. Years later, on my way home from a work conference in Monterey in February 2013, I finally dialed-in an epic low-tide session at Rincon… 2-3 feet, high-pressure front, afternoon sheet glass, and not a drop of water out of place. TM is an artist and drips style like melted globs of candle wax. His surfing is not unlike viewing Italian Frescos, room to room… engaging, colorful, and unforgettable. Great to see him unwind at the Queen. Stoked!
I've always appreciated TM's smooth style. Happy to see that he was able to snag a few at that spot!
4:12 Really nicely expressed "..not letting the mind tell the narrative straight up. Just gotta wait for the story to come through your feet almost.." I prefer my old somewhat beat up Simon Jones 'Bali' ? single fin as my daily board and the weight and buoyancy, the geometry and fin mean that, while you can try to surf like on a modern board, it is so much more fun to surf in a feedback based way. It's not quite the same as say a single fin Malibu or how many people seem to ride their 'mid's. It's shortboard riding without controlling the board with a view to dominating the wave, more like a three way conversation between the wave, board and rider. You can still throw in moves, add power into turns and cutbacks, but you're going with the moment, rather than having total control. Never really thought about it, but I think that is what is nice about it.
V cool.... Would love to see some more vids with aiyana surfing please needs :)
Amazing as always
Really cool idea for a video! Thanks for posting.
awesome, thanks for sharing the stoke ✌
That's so cool. Thanks
Light crowd at the corner! How did that happen?
Sooo gooooddd!
fire
The discovery of the +_ 7' boards by todays surfers is revealing an era in history that some thought forgettable. There were those in the 80s who didn't like sub 6' but all focus went to this category. Now it gets uncovered like a new thing but it's not.
7'6" & 6'9" you say.
Never met you but you strike me as a big tall lanky lad.
Big wingspan and giant feet.
Sound perfect.
Enjoy your sojourn.
He's 6'1
So meta