Looks like a fun project, I always get a kick out of building stuff with stock materials. When I need a chain tensioner, I use a short cage derailer with a small bit of shifter cable, just tensioned to stay in the right spot.
@@od1bo none of my derailleur can handle this 42T sprocket when i have it positioned in the ~5th gear chain line. And i have a derailleur with a clutch that maxed out at 42T but it has to articulate inward to go far enough down to handle 42T. So even a 42T derailleur can’t handle 42T how i have it set up. Its a rly niche setup, id probably have to buy a derailleur that can handle 50T or something to pull it off.
You should have led with this video... I saw the noisy short first. I assumed it was a finished product. Looking good so far. You got more ambition than me😅
I went for a carbon belt dual drivetrain. One is driven by pedals and chain, the other is driven by the motor which peaks at 4,5kw, 2kW nominal on a dual suspension. Very similar to the LMX64 yet more powerful and a fraction of the cost
I upgraded to a Acolyte locking derailleur because my Shimano kept throwing the chain. Also swapped out the 3 piece Shimano crank for a single 60t Ounce / Litepro setup in red and black the chainring has a sm lip too, haven't thrown a chain since.
I will continue criticizing this decision, and please don't take this as a personal attack, I like your channel but i still need to say what i gotta say, this is my honest opinion on people that follow this path of gear-less-ness or whatever. You removed the derailleur and then just re-invented it it a clanky diy way, you could probably just get a D and only have it there for the tensioning, and it would be more reliable, better at its job and it would occupy less space too, a 50$ shimano D with clutch would do the same job and you can even use it to disengage the chain easier for when you want to do repairs. I've commented this before but you basically only need to momentarily cut power to the drive train when you switch gears using the braking lever slack trick, or simply get a sensor for this job. Having extra gears help in various situations, especially if its supposed to be a MTB or whatever, also gears help the motor last longer which is far more important that whatever reliability issues a few extra gears bring to the table.
when you put the bbshd on 72v, you can gear it extremely low and give it high field weakening. and it will go 40 mph in a low gear and don't need to shift. I have a bbshd on 72V on another bike with a derailleur and shifting gears and i barely use 2 gears on that bike. I get this comment all the time from people who have not tried a bbshd on high voltage. If you did you would probably find yourself traveling down the same path i have
Interesting even though I removed the chain, chain ring, derailuer, shifter & cable to save weight myself. Seems to me attaching something with the jocky wheels hanging in the middle of the chain stay might cut the noise & slots to move the wheel distance from each other & distance from the chain stay.
The noise started when I added that second 2" wide piece of aluminum on the back as a chain guard. I think its because that entire piece of metal is hanging on the side off the two screws from teh jockey wheel. I am gonna try to drive a couple more bolts through the two pieces of metal to hold them together and reduce the vibration noise. It wasnt bad when it was jsut the chain and jockey wheels spinning. But yeah its so loud now lmao. I did some serious audio fixing you have no idea how loud it is
Thanks for posting this. It is fun to watch you work through the process. You have had better luck bending the aluminum bar at that sharp 90 degree angle. My attempts often crack. So I had to anneal the bar stock to allow it to bend without snapping. It appears you added a second nylock nut to the bolt near the pedal...without that, I figured you would eventually shred your ankle. Cool project!
@@NoInfoFound yeah it was questionable bending the aluminum that sharply 🤨 i need to add more bolts clamping the two metal plates together, in several other spots, i will try to get better jockey wheels and make a proper one. in the mean time i will continue messing around with this contraption 😂🤣😂🤣😂 and YES 🙌 the nylock nuts are absolutely critical!! I tried running the bbshd without the nylock nuts, and in a few seconds it had rattled the nuts 75% off the 50mm long bolts !! 😳😱 Nylock nuts 🔩 Are mission critical. And probably like JB weld the ones that don’t need to come off or something. The second jockey wheel i need to be able to remove to reduce the tension when attaching or removing the chain. So I’m not sure i might have to disassemble the entire thing each time i need to remove my wheel Lol. But I’m going to paint it and try to fix the noise!! And I’ll use better jockey wheels when they come. Thanks 🙏 for the kind words and the comment as always!! BTW saw that coffee contribution i greatly appreciate that my friend!! I will mess around with cruise control in VESC again if i can get vesc working smoothly with my bbshd. I will probably buy another flipsky so i have one on a hub motor bike and a better setup for cruise control. Currently i just have the one flipsky and its on the HD for now. and I’m honestly scared to try cruise control on the mid drive.. i think i need to improve my BBSHD vesc script more, before i would trust using the cruise control within vesc… or figure out how to further improve my bbshd tuning in vesc. But i think if i tried cruise control with the HD mid drive, it would break something on my bike or the motor most likely. Stay tuned mate I’m gonna fix this noise prblem and try it out!!!
You might be able to extend the derailleur hanger outwards then bolt a clutched mech on but set to the position that would accept the largest rear sprocket. Sort of offsetting it if you know what I mean? You'd probably need an M10 bolt that sticks out a further two centimetres. Or if that isn't feasible, perhaps try a B- link extension adapter to move the derailleur downwards?
New subscriber thanks for content!! Have you ever tried converting to a single speed belt? Expensive likely but should be silent and reliable? I haven't seen anyone even try this on a diy Enduro build and not sure why? Thanks
im not suyre how much shorter I could make it, and still have everything fit this huge sprocket, I had to mess around with it a lot. and still barely got a hole drilled on the end of the aluminum to fit that second jockey wheel. I have another piece left I might make one final version of it and see if i can make it any better or shorter. And have one for a backup. I agree it would be nice if it was shorter, It might be possible if i made my chain longer. But this is a full sized 7 speed chain. so id have to join 2 chains to make it longer, etc
@@EBikeBuilder_ I wouldn't add chain but id still try to shorten it even if only an inch or two. As an auto mechanic any add on the shorter the better so I apply that thinking.
@@FloridaEbikes I’m gonna try again, but with better jockey wheels that i buy on Amazon with actual bearings or something. and the slightly shorter piece of aluminum that i have remaining. I’ve figured out what the noise is- need more bolts to add rigidity to the metal plates . whats rattling and loud is the screws from the jockey wheels in the aluminum . And the entire chain guard piece of metal is only held on through those 2 screws. I think a couple more screws and maybe something to dampen that vibration where the jockey wheel screws go through the aluminum
If the chain breaks and that digs into the ground your the next astronaut .
New episode.... Flipsky in space
lol!
Looks like a fun project, I always get a kick out of building stuff with stock materials. When I need a chain tensioner, I use a short cage derailer with a small bit of shifter cable, just tensioned to stay in the right spot.
@@od1bo none of my derailleur can handle this 42T sprocket when i have it positioned in the ~5th gear chain line. And i have a derailleur with a clutch that maxed out at 42T but it has to articulate inward to go far enough down to handle 42T. So even a 42T derailleur can’t handle 42T how i have it set up. Its a rly niche setup, id probably have to buy a derailleur that can handle 50T or something to pull it off.
You should have led with this video... I saw the noisy short first. I assumed it was a finished product. Looking good so far. You got more ambition than me😅
It’s noisy AF i think i can fix that noise 😂🎉 ty ty i think it may work Lol if it didn’t explode
@@EBikeBuilder_ just like in welding, you got to give it the drop test... Rip that full speed 😂
I went for a carbon belt dual drivetrain.
One is driven by pedals and chain, the other is driven by the motor which peaks at 4,5kw, 2kW nominal on a dual suspension. Very similar to the LMX64 yet more powerful and a fraction of the cost
I upgraded to a Acolyte locking derailleur because my Shimano kept throwing the chain. Also swapped out the 3 piece Shimano crank for a single 60t Ounce / Litepro setup in red and black the chainring has a sm lip too, haven't thrown a chain since.
I will continue criticizing this decision, and please don't take this as a personal attack, I like your channel but i still need to say what i gotta say, this is my honest opinion on people that follow this path of gear-less-ness or whatever.
You removed the derailleur and then just re-invented it it a clanky diy way, you could probably just get a D and only have it there for the tensioning, and it would be more reliable, better at its job and it would occupy less space too, a 50$ shimano D with clutch would do the same job and you can even use it to disengage the chain easier for when you want to do repairs.
I've commented this before but you basically only need to momentarily cut power to the drive train when you switch gears using the braking lever slack trick, or simply get a sensor for this job.
Having extra gears help in various situations, especially if its supposed to be a MTB or whatever, also gears help the motor last longer which is far more important that whatever reliability issues a few extra gears bring to the table.
when you put the bbshd on 72v, you can gear it extremely low and give it high field weakening. and it will go 40 mph in a low gear and don't need to shift. I have a bbshd on 72V on another bike with a derailleur and shifting gears and i barely use 2 gears on that bike. I get this comment all the time from people who have not tried a bbshd on high voltage. If you did you would probably find yourself traveling down the same path i have
Interesting even though I removed the chain, chain ring, derailuer, shifter & cable to save weight myself. Seems to me attaching something with the jocky wheels hanging in the middle of the chain stay might cut the noise & slots to move the wheel distance from each other & distance from the chain stay.
The noise started when I added that second 2" wide piece of aluminum on the back as a chain guard. I think its because that entire piece of metal is hanging on the side off the two screws from teh jockey wheel. I am gonna try to drive a couple more bolts through the two pieces of metal to hold them together and reduce the vibration noise. It wasnt bad when it was jsut the chain and jockey wheels spinning. But yeah its so loud now lmao. I did some serious audio fixing you have no idea how loud it is
@@EBikeBuilder_in that case, maybe it's a reverb effect from reflecting the sound waves into each other & that frequency is reverberating
Thanks for posting this. It is fun to watch you work through the process.
You have had better luck bending the aluminum bar at that sharp 90 degree angle. My attempts often crack.
So I had to anneal the bar stock to allow it to bend without snapping. It appears you added a second nylock nut to the bolt near the pedal...without that, I figured you would eventually shred your ankle.
Cool project!
@@NoInfoFound yeah it was questionable bending the aluminum that sharply 🤨 i need to add more bolts clamping the two metal plates together, in several other spots, i will try to get better jockey wheels and make a proper one. in the mean time i will continue messing around with this contraption 😂🤣😂🤣😂 and YES 🙌 the nylock nuts are absolutely critical!! I tried running the bbshd without the nylock nuts, and in a few seconds it had rattled the nuts 75% off the 50mm long bolts !! 😳😱 Nylock nuts 🔩 Are mission critical. And probably like JB weld the ones that don’t need to come off or something. The second jockey wheel i need to be able to remove to reduce the tension when attaching or removing the chain. So I’m not sure i might have to disassemble the entire thing each time i need to remove my wheel Lol. But I’m going to paint it and try to fix the noise!! And I’ll use better jockey wheels when they come. Thanks 🙏 for the kind words and the comment as always!! BTW saw that coffee contribution i greatly appreciate that my friend!! I will mess around with cruise control in VESC again if i can get vesc working smoothly with my bbshd. I will probably buy another flipsky so i have one on a hub motor bike and a better setup for cruise control. Currently i just have the one flipsky and its on the HD for now. and I’m honestly scared to try cruise control on the mid drive.. i think i need to improve my BBSHD vesc script more, before i would trust using the cruise control within vesc… or figure out how to further improve my bbshd tuning in vesc. But i think if i tried cruise control with the HD mid drive, it would break something on my bike or the motor most likely. Stay tuned mate I’m gonna fix this noise prblem and try it out!!!
You know what makes a great chain tensioner? A derailleur
You might be able to extend the derailleur hanger outwards then bolt a clutched mech on but set to the position that would accept the largest rear sprocket. Sort of offsetting it if you know what I mean? You'd probably need an M10 bolt that sticks out a further two centimetres. Or if that isn't feasible, perhaps try a B- link extension adapter to move the derailleur downwards?
New subscriber thanks for content!! Have you ever tried converting to a single speed belt? Expensive likely but should be silent and reliable? I haven't seen anyone even try this on a diy Enduro build and not sure why? Thanks
Just buy ltwoo T5 1X9 try on my bbshd i just pay 40$ for set
Not bad, Id shorten up though.
im not suyre how much shorter I could make it, and still have everything fit this huge sprocket, I had to mess around with it a lot. and still barely got a hole drilled on the end of the aluminum to fit that second jockey wheel. I have another piece left I might make one final version of it and see if i can make it any better or shorter. And have one for a backup. I agree it would be nice if it was shorter, It might be possible if i made my chain longer. But this is a full sized 7 speed chain. so id have to join 2 chains to make it longer, etc
@@EBikeBuilder_ I wouldn't add chain but id still try to shorten it even if only an inch or two. As an auto mechanic any add on the shorter the better so I apply that thinking.
@@FloridaEbikes I’m gonna try again, but with better jockey wheels that i buy on Amazon with actual bearings or something. and the slightly shorter piece of aluminum that i have remaining. I’ve figured out what the noise is- need more bolts to add rigidity to the metal plates . whats rattling and loud is the screws from the jockey wheels in the aluminum . And the entire chain guard piece of metal is only held on through those 2 screws. I think a couple more screws and maybe something to dampen that vibration where the jockey wheel screws go through the aluminum