Thank you for your videos! Out of curiosity I did a little scrape of verified reviews for purchased frames (just the frames, not photos) at a relatively upscale retailer here in Canada - to see which sizes people were buying most. Now these are reviews, not purchases, and selection bias, yadda yadda, but here it is: size percent 8x10 31% 18x24 23% 16x20 18% 11x14 15% 5x7 7% 4x6 3% 24x36 2% sample size: 148
Superb as ever, Thanks Keith. I looked thru your channel, but could not find, any tutorial on Mounting on Foamboard or similar, There are several types of Foam board, and Gatorfoam Board, it's hard to deduce from any descriptions on Amazon, for instance, how good/bad they are, some with an Adhesive side Do you use This kind of Mounting Board for your larger Images ? If so your thoughts and Recommendations would be really useful.
Thanks - I use it for much larger prints, where I take the print to a local sign making company. They have big roller presses and can cut/trim board - they also have huge tables to work on. I can also get prints laminated with a non reflective film. This is for big prints for commercial offices and the like - I simply don't have the space (or equipment) to do it at home. The largest prints I frame (conventionally) at home are ~17" x 26" where I have a matte cutter. For actual print sales I mostly ship bare prints in a roll.
I've already read many of your tutorials and now really appreciate your videos too ! Many many thanks for your work Mr. Cooper. If you need suggestions for future videos maybe these: - Printer linearization for BW; - real world comparison between canned and custom icc profiles; - i1 photo pro vs i1 studio.
Thanks - and for the suggestions. The B&W linearisation is covered in several written articles each of which is based towards using a particular measuring device. It's not the sort of detail I'd really cover in a video (there is one for the B&W test image). The videos are mostly intended to supplement written articles or cover more generic subjects like this one. The videos are still a new thing for me, I'm a photographer and writer long before a video maker :-) Canned vs custom - I can answer that pretty easily. First make test prints of known test images and see for yourself. Modern canned profiles are much better and fine for most people. Custom profiles can make a difference but images that show it clearly are rare. Profiling is mostly for those that want to learn profiling or use it as another excuse not to work on the fundamentals of photography and editing for print ;-) I1 studio vs photo pro - two very different markets. Average profiles for photos are fine with both - more customisation and measurement options with the i1 pro -but it costs more. Skill, experience and knowledge needed to show a serious difference between them. Simply put, if you don't know why and in what ways the more expensive one is better, then that's a strong hint that it's a waste of money ;-) ;-) Both an expensive luxury for most people wanting to print their photos ;-) I normally recommend just a monitor calibrator for most people
@@KeithCooper many thanks for your fast and very deep answer. Your blog posts are really a must for everyone who wants to learn and improve both editing and printing. Totally agree with all you said above. Many youtubers make videos and encourage people buy any kind of expensive gear. It's rare to have a professional photographer who wants you to ask questions about your needs before go and buy!
Great content but I think you should use a Directional Microphone that is mounted on Camera. I am using a Deity V-MIC D3 Pro, which is great if you want it more on a budget level (170 EUR). Rode NTG4/5 etc. are better, but then you also need a XLR interface and I think this is a bit overkill and brings you more into the 500-700 EUR region.
Thanks - I have moved the mic up to my collar after someone pointed out me hitting it with sheets of paper! Unfortunately - €170 is not budget level when you have no paying work coming in, so a new mic is not likely for a while I'm afraid :-(
Hi Keith - Lately started to consider getting a printer and in doing so came across your channel, Some great info in your videos. Wondering if you have printed any night sky (Milky Way) images and is there different consideration for these darker images than a more normal daytime/sunset/sunrise image with regard to printing and or size of an image.
The choice of paper may be a little different, since with large areas of black, the surface sheen of a lot of ink is subtly different, but in essence you print such images the same. I've printed some photos of the Moon at 17' square.
Interesting. So printing larger allows us the opportunity to improve our photography. You definitely gave me some good food for thought. I suppose this might also explain why larger format viewfinders deliver a different feel. Do you feel like shooting tethered to a larger monitor changes the way you frame in the same way that medium format waist-level viewfinders or ground glass do? I started messing around with my 4x5 framing random objects around the house and I noticed little things I otherwise would have missed.
Yes - the scale thing is a difference that is often overlooked. I only do tethered shooting for product/macro work, but I can imagine having my camera outdoors connected to a big monitor would distinctly change aspects of my composition. I'd be less welcoming of the increase in size of my baggage train and perhaps spontaneity ;-) Next time I get a big printer here to review (i.e. with ink and paper!), I'm definitely going to address this some more.
Thanks a lot Keith for all your tips about printing big photos. I'm beginning with my new Canon PRO-1000 and i'm reading all your article before printing my first A2 photo. Can I ask you a question which is not about bigger print, but about the printer ? I read some days ago on a website that it's better to not turn off printer like mine, keeping it always on in standby status. What do you think about this ?
Thanks - unfortunately, in this respect, my testing (and detailed review on the Northlight site) was done of the PRO-1000 not long after it came out, which means there have been a lot of firmware updates since then. These are always worth installing and affect all sorts of aspects of the printer operation but their content is rarely fully disclosed. That means my first inclination if someone gave me a PRO-1000 would be to leave it at the default setting and leave it powered on at the power outlet. I say this since there is rather a lot of 'noise' on the internet, based on speculation and apocryphal 'evidence free' worries about 'ink waste'. It means that apart from my general inclination not to leave a printer unused for too long, I'd be looking for some reliable testing info. It's not a printer I've used for several years, so I've not followed it in detail, but I'd be happy to use one.
Hi Keith, for Fine Art Printing would you recommend the P900 or the P6000. The only reason I like the P6000 is because it makes a 24 inch wide print. But is the quality as good as the P900? Great vids btw, I subscribed
Thanks! For 'fine art' I'd always suggest the P7000 (with orange and green inks), not P6000 which is just 8 colour www.northlight-images.co.uk/epson-surecolor-p7000-printer-review/ Actually I'd prefer the P7500, but with Covid, I've not been able to do a review of one.
Just started playing with gigapixel. I processed a standard micro 4/3 image, multiplied it by 4 then sliced out a strip to make a panorama. I've got a print at about 20"wide which is ok on detail but not great on colour, certainly my fault with the adjustments. Stay safe and well.
Thanks - if you've not seen them, do have a look at some of the articles on the Northlight site about using GP AI? The initial processing of the image before running through GP-AI can have quite an impact on output quality.
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Thank you for your videos! Out of curiosity I did a little scrape of verified reviews for purchased frames (just the frames, not photos) at a relatively upscale retailer here in Canada - to see which sizes people were buying most. Now these are reviews, not purchases, and selection bias, yadda yadda, but here it is:
size percent
8x10 31%
18x24 23%
16x20 18%
11x14 15%
5x7 7%
4x6 3%
24x36 2%
sample size: 148
That's an interesting observation - thanks for posting it.
Excellent information, thank you. And it is so true that some images just don't work if printed on large-scale sizes.
Thanks - I've a much bigger printer here at the moment and wanted to address this with some 24" x 36" prints
Great job, really enjoying this series.
Thanks!
Superb as ever, Thanks Keith.
I looked thru your channel, but could not find, any tutorial on Mounting on Foamboard or similar,
There are several types of Foam board, and Gatorfoam Board,
it's hard to deduce from any descriptions on Amazon, for instance, how good/bad they are,
some with an Adhesive side
Do you use This kind of Mounting Board for your larger Images ?
If so your thoughts and Recommendations would be really useful.
Thanks - I use it for much larger prints, where I take the print to a local sign making company.
They have big roller presses and can cut/trim board - they also have huge tables to work on. I can also get prints laminated with a non reflective film.
This is for big prints for commercial offices and the like - I simply don't have the space (or equipment) to do it at home.
The largest prints I frame (conventionally) at home are ~17" x 26" where I have a matte cutter.
For actual print sales I mostly ship bare prints in a roll.
I've already read many of your tutorials and now really appreciate your videos too ! Many many thanks for your work Mr. Cooper. If you need suggestions for future videos maybe these:
- Printer linearization for BW;
- real world comparison between canned and custom icc profiles;
- i1 photo pro vs i1 studio.
Thanks - and for the suggestions.
The B&W linearisation is covered in several written articles each of which is based towards using a particular measuring device. It's not the sort of detail I'd really cover in a video (there is one for the B&W test image). The videos are mostly intended to supplement written articles or cover more generic subjects like this one. The videos are still a new thing for me, I'm a photographer and writer long before a video maker :-)
Canned vs custom - I can answer that pretty easily. First make test prints of known test images and see for yourself. Modern canned profiles are much better and fine for most people. Custom profiles can make a difference but images that show it clearly are rare. Profiling is mostly for those that want to learn profiling or use it as another excuse not to work on the fundamentals of photography and editing for print ;-)
I1 studio vs photo pro - two very different markets. Average profiles for photos are fine with both - more customisation and measurement options with the i1 pro -but it costs more. Skill, experience and knowledge needed to show a serious difference between them. Simply put, if you don't know why and in what ways the more expensive one is better, then that's a strong hint that it's a waste of money ;-) ;-)
Both an expensive luxury for most people wanting to print their photos ;-)
I normally recommend just a monitor calibrator for most people
@@KeithCooper many thanks for your fast and very deep answer. Your blog posts are really a must for everyone who wants to learn and improve both editing and printing. Totally agree with all you said above. Many youtubers make videos and encourage people buy any kind of expensive gear. It's rare to have a professional photographer who wants you to ask questions about your needs before go and buy!
Damn. Another fine video forcing me to think about the complexities if larger prints - Than you.
:)
Hope it's of some use! ;-)
Great content but I think you should use a Directional Microphone that is mounted on Camera. I am using a Deity V-MIC D3 Pro, which is great if you want it more on a budget level (170 EUR). Rode NTG4/5 etc. are better, but then you also need a XLR interface and I think this is a bit overkill and brings you more into the 500-700 EUR region.
Thanks - I have moved the mic up to my collar after someone pointed out me hitting it with sheets of paper!
Unfortunately - €170 is not budget level when you have no paying work coming in, so a new mic is not likely for a while I'm afraid :-(
Sound advice Keith and as I'm considering getting a bigger printer at some point your next video is also going to be very useful! :-)
Hi Keith - Lately started to consider getting a printer and in doing so came across your channel, Some great info in your videos. Wondering if you have printed any night sky (Milky Way) images and is there different consideration for these darker images than a more normal daytime/sunset/sunrise image with regard to printing and or size of an image.
The choice of paper may be a little different, since with large areas of black, the surface sheen of a lot of ink is subtly different, but in essence you print such images the same. I've printed some photos of the Moon at 17' square.
@@KeithCooper Thanks for the info, good to know
Interesting. So printing larger allows us the opportunity to improve our photography. You definitely gave me some good food for thought. I suppose this might also explain why larger format viewfinders deliver a different feel. Do you feel like shooting tethered to a larger monitor changes the way you frame in the same way that medium format waist-level viewfinders or ground glass do? I started messing around with my 4x5 framing random objects around the house and I noticed little things I otherwise would have missed.
Yes - the scale thing is a difference that is often overlooked.
I only do tethered shooting for product/macro work, but I can imagine having my camera outdoors connected to a big monitor would distinctly change aspects of my composition. I'd be less welcoming of the increase in size of my baggage train and perhaps spontaneity ;-)
Next time I get a big printer here to review (i.e. with ink and paper!), I'm definitely going to address this some more.
I can see the pegion in 2004 picture, very nice print :)
Thanks a lot Keith for all your tips about printing big photos. I'm beginning with my new Canon PRO-1000 and i'm reading all your article before printing my first A2 photo. Can I ask you a question which is not about bigger print, but about the printer ? I read some days ago on a website that it's better to not turn off printer like mine, keeping it always on in standby status. What do you think about this ?
Thanks - unfortunately, in this respect, my testing (and detailed review on the Northlight site) was done of the PRO-1000 not long after it came out, which means there have been a lot of firmware updates since then.
These are always worth installing and affect all sorts of aspects of the printer operation but their content is rarely fully disclosed. That means my first inclination if someone gave me a PRO-1000 would be to leave it at the default setting and leave it powered on at the power outlet.
I say this since there is rather a lot of 'noise' on the internet, based on speculation and apocryphal 'evidence free' worries about 'ink waste'. It means that apart from my general inclination not to leave a printer unused for too long, I'd be looking for some reliable testing info. It's not a printer I've used for several years, so I've not followed it in detail, but I'd be happy to use one.
Hi Keith, for Fine Art Printing would you recommend the P900 or the P6000. The only reason I like the P6000 is because it makes a 24 inch wide print. But is the quality as good as the P900? Great vids btw, I subscribed
Thanks!
For 'fine art' I'd always suggest the P7000 (with orange and green inks), not P6000 which is just 8 colour
www.northlight-images.co.uk/epson-surecolor-p7000-printer-review/
Actually I'd prefer the P7500, but with Covid, I've not been able to do a review of one.
Just started playing with gigapixel. I processed a standard micro 4/3 image, multiplied it by 4 then sliced out a strip to make a panorama. I've got a print at about 20"wide which is ok on detail but not great on colour, certainly my fault with the adjustments. Stay safe and well.
Thanks - if you've not seen them, do have a look at some of the articles on the Northlight site about using GP AI? The initial processing of the image before running through GP-AI can have quite an impact on output quality.
Nice video ❤️👍amazing❤️❤️🤟🤟...
Thanks!