I have been following at least a dozen photographers on utube for a few years and wished I had come across your website sooner…afternoon years I now want to get out and buy some gear, but am poor and desperately want to get into pano/architectural genre ….BEING AN OLD PENTAX LOVER AND OLYMPUS 35MM should I start there again or just get straight into medium format and take time to learn of course the post production software not to mention the expensive computer accessories !? I hope you dont find my question silly….I tend to over analyse things and just cannot decide what to buy having binge-watched too many videos/vloggs
If you dont have $$$ then don't get into MF. There are great amounts of 35mm gear out there that will do the the job just fine. That's my recomendation.
Thank you for the video Christopher. I am very interested in the shift lens. To be used in my coming GFX100 ii. Question: did you purchase your Mamiya lenses from Japan, on eBay? Or elsewhere? I tend to buy mostly from Japan, as I get cleaner lenses in better condition.
For the Hartblei shift adapter contact Vitaliy, who is the sun of the owner at mail@hartbleilens.com. It is in the Ukraine, but last month they were still in business. Say Hi from me please.
this is an interesting video but honestly, I think it is just too complicated when you start adapting more than one adapter. I'm sure lenses and camera will always have some movement between them, maybe even light leak. If you are doing this professionally, I think it would bring more frustration than pleasure and enjoyment in photography. nice video
I quite agree with you Pablo. Having said that, there are other ways to look at it. If your nature flourishes with these challenges.. You are stuck with no work due to Covid and have time to experiment.. But I also have a new YT buddy, living in London, who is having the time of his life with these setups, and, I have to say, is producing some amazing photos.
You have however pretty much swung me over to fuji as its been my top three digital systems Ive been following for some time …any advice would be most appreciated thanks. ( from UK)
Enjoyable video and explanation. As you know a lot about lenses I’m curious to pick your brain. I have the GFX 100s as well. I’d really like to have a 35mm focal length prime lens for the GFX (because I like the look of 28mm on full frame). Would be great to have tilt/shift and low barrel distortion. Any suggestions from you? Even if nothing T/S comes to mind, what would be your top recommendations?
Yes You are correct , Photo is having fun . I will try your suggestion . Thank you to make me having Fun , I will take time to have it all and this is the deal .
Yes, at least the last generation of RZ (especially M series) and RB system (K/L series) can resolve 100 Mpx. You may look at previous YT video "GFX 100 Using HARTBLEI RBZ-S Adapter with Mamiya 75mm RZ 67 Lens with DAS" (starting at 20:25): Christopher was very kind to provide the direct comparison of Sekor-Shift 75 with a native GF lens. Furthermore, the lenses with internal floating lens element (so called "Floating System" or "FLE" or "IF") allow to adjust the sharpness both at the edges and in the corners (in liveview using zoom tool and pixel peaking). To our knowledge none of other lenses provides fully controlled adjustment by internal FLE. In other words, it is possible to get edge-to-edge sharpness wide open and fully shifted. As it was already mentioned, the images are completely free of chromatic aberrations as well. Therefore, no correspondent lens profile is needed.
The shift setup looks nice but wouldn't using Canon 90mm TSE II or the 50/135mm TSE be much easier? Of course it will have less tilt/shift. The lenses seems reasonable but adapter costs is big, not the mention overall size/weight. Thanks for the video, maybe have a follow on with results using the lenses you mentioned.
"Less shift" literally means 22 mm shift less, because Sekor-Shift 75 can be shifted up to 32mm without lens vignetting, whereas Canon TSE only 10 mm with smearing in the corners although stopped down to >f11 and hard vignetting from >10mm in landscape orientation.
What crop factor does the 75mm translate to on the gfx and do you find it wide enough when shifting for interiors? Also what recommendations would you have for really wide captures of tall architectural exteriors? Trying to find a good lens combination that can cover these bases and the Mamiya’s look to offer great results.
Regarding your 75 Mamyia question, download from this link (YT does not facilitate attachments) www.christopherleggett.com/home/viewfolders/D6kV90S. and the Password is 1234 Then, to your next questions: One can sometimes get away with perspective distortion as you will see if you click on this link... www.christopherleggett.com/home/single_gallery/291 When i go on that kind of shoot, I bring with me a Nikon 19mm PC, Schneider 28mm PC, Mamyia 75mm PC, and a Hartblei 120mm PC
@@christopherleggettphotography thanks for the info, that chart is incredibly helpful, and that image circle is enormous on the 75mm. Pity one has to do a huge amount of stitching work for interiors.
@@PeeGeeTips Stitching is the name of the game nowadays. Not only for interiors, but exteriors too. I use DAS (Dual Axis Shifting) all the time for buildings or landscape. I keep a GFX100s with a small 50mm lens in my backpack all the time, and you will be amazed that what one can achieve with a little post stitching. Just stitched a landscape one yesterday and the image with all the layers, came out to be 80gb in size.
Cool video. These are RZ lenses right? RB lenses are even less expensive. There should not be any parallax errors if you shift lens or camera because on the Fuji it’s liveview and what the sensor sees. But the 75mm Shift plus Hartblei adapter, the combination is bigger and heavier than a small view camera. Have you looked into Cambo Actus or Arca Swiss Universalis, or Sinar P3 or Linhof M679 or even the Chinese Swebo TC1?
Parallax difference in the apparent position of an object viewed along two different lines of sight ...one has parallax issue as soon as the lens is moved whereas camera sensor stays. It has nothing to do with rangefinder parallax. Look at this animation for the better understanding: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parallax#/media/File:Parallax.gif regarding Cambo Actus and other systems: Cambo Actus system will be not smaller with 75mm Shift lens. There is no chance to use this system parallax-free with 75 Shift lens. For correct comparison one should propose the system allowing 32mm shift in one direction. If not, then it is pointless to discuss as an alternative to Hartblei system. RB lenses can be used as well but one should take into consideration that 7mm helicoid are lost. Or one use the adapter with RB focal distance flange. But then 75mm Shift for RB system could be even more expensive.
@@christopherleggettphotography If you plan to just use the lenses adapted without tilt/shift, then either mount (RZ or RB) acceptable/of the same quality? I have adapted other lenses but never Mamiya or Mamiya to GFX. Just want to make sure I understand it correctly. Thank you!
@@clynch222 I do apologies for not addressing your message earlier. My excuse is that i have been running around Cambodia for the last month and then was busy with my first job of the year (things are starting to get better:) Not sure if i completely understand what you are asking, so do, if you are still interested, dp explain it to me again. Tx.
I would love to reuse my RB lenses, but if the price you mentioned is right, it will have to wait some more. I can't justify it if it is almost the same price as a lens... Have you tested any RB lenses? Do you think they would fare well? I wanted the adaptor for the shift fonction too, but i may drop that requirement and get the cheaper fotodiox one (no shift) if they ever have them in stock again.
There is no difference between RB and RZ lenses if they were produced at the same time period. The K/L series of RB lenses is the latest generation of Mamiya lenses corresponding to the latest RZ lenses like 180mm W-N etc. Some of them (like 90mm with Floating System) were not released for RZ cameras. Fotodiox is not available for the long time already. This adapter is of poor quality causing extreme light flare issue.
R U Serious, this is Gem of the video. thanks for making such great content. MAESTRO
Why, thank you.
What a sausage!
I have been following at least a dozen photographers on utube for a few years and wished I had come across your website sooner…afternoon years I now want to get out and buy some gear, but am poor and desperately want to get into pano/architectural genre ….BEING AN OLD PENTAX LOVER AND OLYMPUS 35MM should I start there again or just get straight into medium format and take time to learn of course the post production software not to mention the expensive computer accessories !? I hope you dont find my question silly….I tend to over analyse things and just cannot decide what to buy having binge-watched too many videos/vloggs
If you dont have $$$ then don't get into MF. There are great amounts of 35mm gear out there that will do the the job just fine. That's my recomendation.
Thank you for the video Christopher.
I am very interested in the shift lens. To be used in my coming GFX100 ii.
Question: did you purchase your Mamiya lenses from Japan, on eBay? Or elsewhere?
I tend to buy mostly from Japan, as I get cleaner lenses in better condition.
Yes, I did. Good lucjk
For the Hartblei shift adapter contact Vitaliy, who is the sun of the owner at mail@hartbleilens.com. It is in the Ukraine, but last month they were still in business. Say Hi from me please.
this is an interesting video but honestly, I think it is just too complicated when you start adapting more than one adapter. I'm sure lenses and camera will always have some movement between them, maybe even light leak. If you are doing this professionally, I think it would bring more frustration than pleasure and enjoyment in photography. nice video
I quite agree with you Pablo. Having said that, there are other ways to look at it. If your nature flourishes with these challenges.. You are stuck with no work due to Covid and have time to experiment.. But I also have a new YT buddy, living in London, who is having the time of his life with these setups, and, I have to say, is producing some amazing photos.
You have however pretty much swung me over to fuji as its been my top three digital systems Ive been following for some time …any advice would be most appreciated thanks. ( from UK)
Christen-her you are a genius at your craft/work …mesmerising ,unique and super inspiring🎶🌈 thank you.
Loving you for "chemical cameras".
Thinking of getting this adapted for my Fuji GFX SII. Are there any issues with vignetting?
Depend on the lens you are using. View th-cam.com/video/Fg7BSal1ILw/w-d-xo.html
Enjoyable video and explanation. As you know a lot about lenses I’m curious to pick your brain. I have the GFX 100s as well. I’d really like to have a 35mm focal length prime lens for the GFX (because I like the look of 28mm on full frame). Would be great to have tilt/shift and low barrel distortion. Any suggestions from you?
Even if nothing T/S comes to mind, what would be your top recommendations?
Fuji is coming out with a 30mm PC lens later this year
Yes You are correct , Photo is having fun . I will try your suggestion . Thank you to make me having Fun , I will take time to have it all and this is the deal .
Then you are on the right path.
may I know from where to purchase lens collar as shown at 5minute 15seconds mark of video, please?
3 minute 25sec. into the video in the upper left hand corn you will fine Hartblei contact info. they make them
Great set up. Do these Mamiya lenses resolve the 100 MP? Or is a GFX 50 enough because these old lenses do not resolve more than that?
Yes, at least the last generation of RZ (especially M series) and RB system (K/L series) can resolve 100 Mpx. You may look at previous YT video "GFX 100 Using HARTBLEI RBZ-S Adapter with Mamiya 75mm RZ 67 Lens with DAS" (starting at 20:25): Christopher was very kind to provide the direct comparison of Sekor-Shift 75 with a native GF lens.
Furthermore, the lenses with internal floating lens element (so called "Floating System" or "FLE" or "IF") allow to adjust the sharpness both at the edges and in the corners (in liveview using zoom tool and pixel peaking). To our knowledge none of other lenses provides fully controlled adjustment by internal FLE. In other words, it is possible to get edge-to-edge sharpness wide open and fully shifted. As it was already mentioned, the images are completely free of chromatic aberrations as well. Therefore, no correspondent lens profile is needed.
The shift setup looks nice but wouldn't using Canon 90mm TSE II or the 50/135mm TSE be much easier? Of course it will have less tilt/shift. The lenses seems reasonable but adapter costs is big, not the mention overall size/weight. Thanks for the video, maybe have a follow on with results using the lenses you mentioned.
"Less shift" literally means 22 mm shift less, because Sekor-Shift 75 can be shifted up to 32mm without lens vignetting, whereas Canon TSE only 10 mm with smearing in the corners although stopped down to >f11 and hard vignetting from >10mm in landscape orientation.
@@christopherleggettphotography - Good to know that. Thanks.
What crop factor does the 75mm translate to on the gfx and do you find it wide enough when shifting for interiors? Also what recommendations would you have for really wide captures of tall architectural exteriors? Trying to find a good lens combination that can cover these bases and the Mamiya’s look to offer great results.
Regarding your 75 Mamyia question, download from this link (YT does not facilitate attachments) www.christopherleggett.com/home/viewfolders/D6kV90S. and the Password is 1234
Then, to your next questions: One can sometimes get away with perspective distortion as you will see if you click on this link... www.christopherleggett.com/home/single_gallery/291
When i go on that kind of shoot, I bring with me a Nikon 19mm PC, Schneider 28mm PC, Mamyia 75mm PC, and a Hartblei 120mm PC
@@christopherleggettphotography thanks for the info, that chart is incredibly helpful, and that image circle is enormous on the 75mm. Pity one has to do a huge amount of stitching work for interiors.
@@PeeGeeTips Stitching is the name of the game nowadays. Not only for interiors, but exteriors too. I use DAS (Dual Axis Shifting) all the time for buildings or landscape. I keep a GFX100s with a small 50mm lens in my backpack all the time, and you will be amazed that what one can achieve with a little post stitching. Just stitched a landscape one yesterday and the image with all the layers, came out to be 80gb in size.
That monster looks like it weighs 20 kg
8 with GFX100, less with the 100S
@@christopherleggettphotography
Holy cow 🐄
At least your wallet is lighter LOL
first.
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
looks like a broken leg surgery. i love it =D
Am impressed. How did you know?
@@christopherleggettphotography I was talking about the lens gears lol
@@caiodlimaM because i broke my leg (femur) earlier this year and had 5 1/2 hour surgery. Thought maybe you were psychic.
@@christopherleggettphotography hahaha I’m full doctor Xavier from X-men now XD
Cool video. These are RZ lenses right? RB lenses are even less expensive.
There should not be any parallax errors if you shift lens or camera because on the Fuji it’s liveview and what the sensor sees.
But the 75mm Shift plus Hartblei adapter, the combination is bigger and heavier than a small view camera. Have you looked into Cambo Actus or Arca Swiss Universalis, or Sinar P3 or Linhof M679 or even the Chinese Swebo TC1?
Parallax
difference in the apparent position of an object viewed along two different lines of sight
...one has parallax issue as soon as the lens is moved whereas camera sensor stays. It has nothing to do with rangefinder parallax. Look at this animation for the better understanding:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parallax#/media/File:Parallax.gif
regarding Cambo Actus and other systems:
Cambo Actus system will be not smaller with 75mm Shift lens. There is no chance to use this system parallax-free with 75 Shift lens.
For correct comparison one should propose the system allowing 32mm shift in one direction. If not, then it is pointless to discuss as an alternative to Hartblei system.
RB lenses can be used as well but one should take into consideration that 7mm helicoid are lost. Or one use the adapter with RB focal distance flange. But then 75mm Shift for RB system could be even more expensive.
@@christopherleggettphotography If you plan to just use the lenses adapted without tilt/shift, then either mount (RZ or RB) acceptable/of the same quality? I have adapted other lenses but never Mamiya or Mamiya to GFX. Just want to make sure I understand it correctly. Thank you!
@@clynch222 I do apologies for not addressing your message earlier. My excuse is that i have been running around Cambodia for the last month and then was busy with my first job of the year (things are starting to get better:)
Not sure if i completely understand what you are asking, so do, if you are still interested, dp explain it to me again. Tx.
I would love to reuse my RB lenses, but if the price you mentioned is right, it will have to wait some more. I can't justify it if it is almost the same price as a lens...
Have you tested any RB lenses? Do you think they would fare well? I wanted the adaptor for the shift fonction too, but i may drop that requirement and get the cheaper fotodiox one (no shift) if they ever have them in stock again.
There is no difference between RB and RZ lenses if they were produced at the same time period. The K/L series of RB lenses is the latest generation of Mamiya lenses corresponding to the latest RZ lenses like 180mm W-N etc. Some of them (like 90mm with Floating System) were not released for RZ cameras.
Fotodiox is not available for the long time already. This adapter is of poor quality causing extreme light flare issue.
I recommend for you maniya sekor rz 65mm f/4 L and 110mm f/2.8, very sharpness.