It's not really going going to be relevant information. Basically all of that response for 99% of subs is going to be specific room related. You are then limited by your content including meaningful response down to 5Hz, which is basically going to be zero content (without the implementation of BEQ).
You're right, it is relevant in a sense when compared to other subwoofers that I have measured in the exact same spot. So if this subwoofer performs down to 7hz, and a different one I measured in in the exact same spot rolls off at 15hz, it 100% shows that this subwoofer has better low end performance. Snootz, you are partially right also. This subwoofer will perform differently in a different room. That being said, it will still perform within the same realm as what we saw here...generally speaking of course. Essentially, my measurements give a general understanding of how the subwoofer will perform, but not an exact idea because it is a different room. I hope that helps...cheers.
Great review! these subs are so good compared to just 5 years ago. Bang for the buck! 😁 too bad I'm selling my 2 15' subs. Will miss them severely. Love the measurements, a great "picture" of how the 1723 performs. Keep up the good work!
Thanks dude! Good luck on the sale of your PSA subs. I look forward to hearing the "new" system once you get everything all hooked up in the new place!
Always nice to see your reviews. Just to points on the side: 1) The finish is considered to be satin black (so soft sheen) rather than matt 2) and I am not sure if it is the same in USA but in EU they used to come with 10yr warranty. That is something worth mentioning as it really gives the buyer a piece of mind that company stands by its products. Cheers
The weight and size of the 2v is a bit much so that scares me off a bit, but I`am considering getting a 2s or 2v soon, so this video is great and I can`t wait for the comparison. Thanks!
perfect timing been reading about these beasts. ps damn had to come back and say even through my Kanto yu6's incredible rumble lol gotta be nuts in person
I don’t tend to like powered subs, having had a lousy plate amp on a 2016 Klipsch R115 fail at only 16 months, and approximately 285 to 325 hrs. I was later informed, that the R115 had a short grouping of substandard components on that assembly line. I politely had a professional company open that plate, remove those connecting leads, and drill two perfect holes for that brand new, Furutech binding posts, and close it right back up! It’s now under the command of a Crown XLi3500, peak-limited by DBX’s 166XL at a maximum of 330 watts. Im sure Arendahl has done a far better job researching better semiconductors in its amps, I just prefer the full reliability of External amplification!
That peak at 30-40hz gives you that nice chest thump some people love. When you run the measurements are you setting your crossover as high as it will go on the AVM90 or are you just leaving it at 120hz? This sub rolls off quickly in the high frequencies for a sealed design. Great video! Nice to see you getting a wide variety of gear to review for us so we can make informed decisions! 👍
Thanks brother! I had the crossover in the AVM90 at 150hz for the measurements. The drop off you see in the high frequencies, I believe has a lot to do with my room.
Do you use the Wavelet II with your Aeris? Arendal recommends the sub is situated with the drivers sideways, you should measure it both ways for your own information. FYI the Wavelet can calibrate your subs doing the room sweeps and sending them off to Germany. Use #7-8 most likely. If you do not have the Wavelet yet, get it! Magic!
I am just using the Wavelaunch processor that came with the Aeris. I will try to fine tune them with that, and see how it goes. I take it you are using the Wavelet processor?
How much space do these need? If I were to get two of these to replace my current subs, I would have a few inches on one side and about the same amount of space next to the speaker as you have in your video when you show the sub logo facing the seating area.
They don't need much space because they are sealed, there is no port that needs space to "breathe". Just keep in mind the closer to a barrier they are the more it will effect room gain. Placement is room dependent, but TECHNICALLY they only need enough room for their drivers not to hit something at full excursion. Anything else is room dependent, and will change the frequency response based on room gain.
I've been looking to upgrade from (3) SB3000s to dual S2. Would that be a good upgrade path. I can't fit a huge ported sub in the area, this is the largest I can go.
I think you'd be happier with the S2's. Essentially you'd be adding more cone area, given the fact the S2 has larger drivers and 4 total. The S2 also has more power, so overall you should notice the upgrade in a meaningful way.
Sold the three sb3000s and recieved dual 1723 S2s last week. Overall, the S2 are beastly subs and made a huge impact. What's crazy is the change was immediate. I wasn't expecting much coming from the sb3000s, but boy was I'm wrong.
Excellent review as always! Say I was wondering, I'm on a "friendly family budget" so would you Recommend this Arendal S Sub?, or a SVS PB 1000/2000?, or a Starke 12"/15" Sealed/Ported?, or the very highly Reviewed and Praised (even by Audioholics's James Larson(?), the RSL SPEEDWOOFER 12S in Black/White (with a remote control too!) , for Only $799.00!!! (as of now on their Website)?? But too bad that ALL of RSL's Subs are actually All SOLD OUT (according their own website)!!! So when time comes and even when the RSLs get back in Stock, which one of these Excellent Subwoofers would "You in your humble and professional opinion would you ultimately buy and keep in your own Home theater?? Thanks in advance!! ;)
I would also recommend you have a look at the Tonewinner subwoofers, they offer a lot of bang for your buck. The Tonewinner D6000 offers a ton of output for its price, and a free app with Bluetooth connectivity. I have some videos about them on my channel if you want to learn more. If you are buying a subwoofer for your home theater, I would recommend going with ported. A ported subwoofer will provide more peak SPL over it's equally equipped sealed counterpart. I have heard great things about the Speedwoofers as well. The Starke subwoofer also offer some great performance for their price. Given your comment about budget, it's fair to assume it's top priority, I'd suggest Starke, Speedwoofer or Tonewinner. Best of luck, cheers.
I like sealed subwoofers with audiophile bookshelf speakers. I like the XLR connections. I love your channel. When is Amir going to release the next revision of Tonewinner processor.
The XR13 is the better subwoofer for sound quality and build quality. I haven't compared the output yet, but if I remember correct the XR13 had more output from about 16hz up, but don't quote me. I'd have to look at their REW files to get a better understanding.
Arendal shuts off the power at 10hz mate. They literally state it if you ask them. I think anyone hoping for tangible output at under 10hz needs to shop elsewhere. Its not usable output down to 7hz. 93db at 7hz is meaningless. No one will hear that. Realistically you need a LOT more SPL at 7hz to hear or feel it. To hit 105db (which still isn't a huge ammount), you'd need 8 of these subs to hit over 100db at that frequency. They even have a 3-4db loss from 20hz to 10hz. In short, they're just not good at low frequencies and although their output looks decent, they're shy of it to really make it feel like anything. If you pass a 10hz test tone through a 2S, you'll feel absolutely nothing.
"93db at 7hz is meaningless. No one will hear that." You can't hear 7hz, most people can't hear below 20hz (ish), so you will NEVER hear 7hz. This is to show the response, we can argue semantics all day, but the fact remains this is the performance I experienced in my room. When it comes to them performing below 10hz, all I can speak about are the measurements in my room, and it performed EXACTLY as shown in the measurements. By "usable" output, I mean it's pretty much within 10db from the rest of the frequency response.
Maybe hear was the wrong world - I meant feel. 10db is a huge, huge difference though. I'm not sure how in the world that is defined as useable output in any realm .. the 2S just doesn't have the headroom for clear infeasonics in a reasonably sized rooms. You'd need a tonne of them! @@SpecOfTech
And an overall excellent review, thank you for posting.🙏
Thanks brother!
Excellent review, as usual!
Thanks for showing data all the way down to 5hz.
Keeep that up for all future subwoofer compression testing, please.
Thanks.
It's not really going going to be relevant information. Basically all of that response for 99% of subs is going to be specific room related. You are then limited by your content including meaningful response down to 5Hz, which is basically going to be zero content (without the implementation of BEQ).
@snootz yes, it is relevant, dude... stop it.
@@sammy10001It isn't, and I won't stop giving insightful information to novice people like yourself who may be watching.
I'll do my best to remember that, thanks.
You're right, it is relevant in a sense when compared to other subwoofers that I have measured in the exact same spot. So if this subwoofer performs down to 7hz, and a different one I measured in in the exact same spot rolls off at 15hz, it 100% shows that this subwoofer has better low end performance.
Snootz, you are partially right also. This subwoofer will perform differently in a different room. That being said, it will still perform within the same realm as what we saw here...generally speaking of course. Essentially, my measurements give a general understanding of how the subwoofer will perform, but not an exact idea because it is a different room.
I hope that helps...cheers.
I like that new 20hz test track.. Awesome.
That one really rocked my room!
Nice video. I can't wait to see your results compared to the two vented version. I love you LCR speakers. The look and finish is just crazy awesome 😎
Thanks brother!
Great review! these subs are so good compared to just 5 years ago. Bang for the buck! 😁 too bad I'm selling my 2 15' subs. Will miss them severely. Love the measurements, a great "picture" of how the 1723 performs. Keep up the good work!
Thanks dude! Good luck on the sale of your PSA subs. I look forward to hearing the "new" system once you get everything all hooked up in the new place!
Compact beast of a subwoofer, thank you for the review!
No problem!
Always nice to see your reviews.
Just to points on the side:
1) The finish is considered to be satin black (so soft sheen) rather than matt
2) and I am not sure if it is the same in USA but in EU they used to come with 10yr warranty. That is something worth mentioning as it really gives the buyer a piece of mind that company stands by its products.
Cheers
How does the 2S compare to the 1V in performance?
Exactly what I'm trying to decide on.
The weight and size of the 2v is a bit much so that scares me off a bit, but I`am considering getting a 2s or 2v soon, so this video is great and I can`t wait for the comparison. Thanks!
2 x of the 1723 2V would be impressive. They have some killer output. I will be releasing the review with REW measurements of the 2V next week.
Good suggestion. Compare it to tone winner D6000 subwoofer.
Thanks for the comment. I think I will make that video in the next few weeks.
Tonewinner sw-d8000, you have to get this to review.
yes, waiting too.pls
do review soon
Would appreciate a comparison with the D 6000 tonewinner, I live in Ontario and wondering if I could save some money,
perfect timing been reading about these beasts. ps damn had to come back and say even through my Kanto yu6's incredible rumble lol gotta be nuts in person
I don’t tend to like powered subs, having had a lousy plate amp on a 2016 Klipsch R115 fail at only 16 months, and approximately 285 to 325 hrs. I was later informed, that the R115 had a short grouping of substandard components on that assembly line. I politely had a professional company open that plate, remove those connecting leads, and drill two perfect holes for that brand new, Furutech binding posts, and close it right back up! It’s now under the command of a Crown XLi3500, peak-limited by DBX’s
166XL at a maximum of 330 watts. Im sure Arendahl has done a far better job researching better semiconductors in its amps, I just prefer the full reliability of External amplification!
So the bass is clean and goes low or just punchy?
That peak at 30-40hz gives you that nice chest thump some people love. When you run the measurements are you setting your crossover as high as it will go on the AVM90 or are you just leaving it at 120hz? This sub rolls off quickly in the high frequencies for a sealed design.
Great video! Nice to see you getting a wide variety of gear to review for us so we can make informed decisions! 👍
Thanks brother!
I had the crossover in the AVM90 at 150hz for the measurements. The drop off you see in the high frequencies, I believe has a lot to do with my room.
Do you use the Wavelet II with your Aeris? Arendal recommends the sub is situated with the drivers sideways, you should measure it both ways for your own information. FYI the Wavelet can calibrate your subs doing the room sweeps and sending them off to Germany. Use #7-8 most likely. If you do not have the Wavelet yet, get it! Magic!
I am just using the Wavelaunch processor that came with the Aeris. I will try to fine tune them with that, and see how it goes. I take it you are using the Wavelet processor?
@@SpecOfTech Yes, I have the Focus Xd's with Wavelet II.
How much space do these need? If I were to get two of these to replace my current subs, I would have a few inches on one side and about the same amount of space next to the speaker as you have in your video when you show the sub logo facing the seating area.
They don't need much space because they are sealed, there is no port that needs space to "breathe". Just keep in mind the closer to a barrier they are the more it will effect room gain. Placement is room dependent, but TECHNICALLY they only need enough room for their drivers not to hit something at full excursion. Anything else is room dependent, and will change the frequency response based on room gain.
@@SpecOfTech thanks for the reply and info 🙏🏼
Just out of curiosity, how high is your TV from the floor to the bottom of the TV and how far are you sitting?
It's about 45" from the bottom of the TV to the floor. My eyes are about 9.5 ft from the screen.
I've been looking to upgrade from (3) SB3000s to dual S2. Would that be a good upgrade path. I can't fit a huge ported sub in the area, this is the largest I can go.
I think you'd be happier with the S2's. Essentially you'd be adding more cone area, given the fact the S2 has larger drivers and 4 total. The S2 also has more power, so overall you should notice the upgrade in a meaningful way.
@@SpecOfTech Thank you very much. I'm about to pull the trigger. I might add a 3rd down the line for near field 😁
Sold the three sb3000s and recieved dual 1723 S2s last week. Overall, the S2 are beastly subs and made a huge impact. What's crazy is the change was immediate. I wasn't expecting much coming from the sb3000s, but boy was I'm wrong.
Yeah the boys at avforums have said there good. Trying to decide between these and the 1v.
Excellent review as always! Say I was wondering, I'm on a "friendly family budget" so would you Recommend this Arendal S Sub?, or a SVS PB 1000/2000?, or a Starke 12"/15" Sealed/Ported?, or the very highly Reviewed and Praised (even by Audioholics's James Larson(?), the RSL SPEEDWOOFER 12S in Black/White (with a remote control too!) , for Only $799.00!!! (as of now on their Website)?? But too bad that ALL of RSL's Subs are actually All SOLD OUT (according their own website)!!! So when time comes and even when the RSLs get back in Stock, which one of these Excellent Subwoofers would "You in your humble and professional opinion would you ultimately buy and keep in your own Home theater?? Thanks in advance!! ;)
I would also recommend you have a look at the Tonewinner subwoofers, they offer a lot of bang for your buck. The Tonewinner D6000 offers a ton of output for its price, and a free app with Bluetooth connectivity. I have some videos about them on my channel if you want to learn more.
If you are buying a subwoofer for your home theater, I would recommend going with ported. A ported subwoofer will provide more peak SPL over it's equally equipped sealed counterpart. I have heard great things about the Speedwoofers as well. The Starke subwoofer also offer some great performance for their price.
Given your comment about budget, it's fair to assume it's top priority, I'd suggest Starke, Speedwoofer or Tonewinner. Best of luck, cheers.
I like sealed subwoofers with audiophile bookshelf speakers.
I like the XLR connections.
I love your channel. When is Amir going to release the next revision of Tonewinner processor.
Thanks brother. I'm not sure when the next version is coming out, but I heard it will be this year some time.
Next to the X13?
The XR13 is the better subwoofer for sound quality and build quality. I haven't compared the output yet, but if I remember correct the XR13 had more output from about 16hz up, but don't quote me. I'd have to look at their REW files to get a better understanding.
So for a low-end test, get the 1080P version of Edge of Tomorrow. Great... So much for the 4K HDR version... 😆
Im guessing ur next purchase will be a 100" tv
Haha, I've thought about it, but I don't think I could fit it down the L shaped stairs we have.
Hmm amazing down to and below 10 hz and still at around 95-100 db. I do not need more than that. Wife hate big subwoofers so guess this one is ok !
Sounds like this sub will suit your needs just perfectly. I love the fact they have such good performance at such a small size.
Unless it hits negative eight hertz flat, im not interested.
Haha, dang, almost there. I have a flux capacitor you might be interested in.
Arendal shuts off the power at 10hz mate. They literally state it if you ask them. I think anyone hoping for tangible output at under 10hz needs to shop elsewhere. Its not usable output down to 7hz. 93db at 7hz is meaningless. No one will hear that. Realistically you need a LOT more SPL at 7hz to hear or feel it. To hit 105db (which still isn't a huge ammount), you'd need 8 of these subs to hit over 100db at that frequency. They even have a 3-4db loss from 20hz to 10hz.
In short, they're just not good at low frequencies and although their output looks decent, they're shy of it to really make it feel like anything.
If you pass a 10hz test tone through a 2S, you'll feel absolutely nothing.
"93db at 7hz is meaningless. No one will hear that." You can't hear 7hz, most people can't hear below 20hz (ish), so you will NEVER hear 7hz. This is to show the response, we can argue semantics all day, but the fact remains this is the performance I experienced in my room.
When it comes to them performing below 10hz, all I can speak about are the measurements in my room, and it performed EXACTLY as shown in the measurements. By "usable" output, I mean it's pretty much within 10db from the rest of the frequency response.
Maybe hear was the wrong world - I meant feel.
10db is a huge, huge difference though. I'm not sure how in the world that is defined as useable output in any realm .. the 2S just doesn't have the headroom for clear infeasonics in a reasonably sized rooms. You'd need a tonne of them!
@@SpecOfTech
HI, which Arendal Sub do you prefer? thanks.
I prefer the 2V, killer output and clean. If you have the space for it, get it.
@@SpecOfTech Thank you, Will do that.