Thank you for doing these comparisons. I'm currently using dual Rythmix FV18'S in my Dolby Atmos Ht. My little brother wants a similar setup, but he can't spend over 2k usd for subs. Thanks to your reviews and comparisons, Tonewinner is now on the map. It blew my mind that the D6000 out muscled Svs' flagship sub and was able to hang with Arendal's top dogs in sealed and ported mode. I know now what subwoofer that I will be recommending to my brother. Thank you again.
I have been trying to get one, but I haven't had any luck so far. I need a solid contact at Klipsch. I hope the run into them at an audio show one day.
one point that is missed here in subwoofer comparison, people add dsp or eq so a frequency response do not matter much, even measures at max volume since you let one frequency hold back the rest.
It's interesting to see some output differences above 30hz between the 2S and 2V in sealed mode. With the same amp you would think these would be mostly identical. Bigger cabinet on the 2V giving it an advantage? Or was there another variable?
Great video as usual! Killer subs, unfortunately in my new place a subwoofer means a dog in a submarine!!!😂😂 Tonewinner really shows up to play. I really hope that TW makes a splash in the market and show the other manufacturers that great quality does NOT mean outrageous prices. Cheers!
Hey Barrett. Thanks for providing these great comparisons. I appreciate your time, effort, resource, dedication, and love for the hobby. What about DIY subs? I'm in Canada also, and it's a little tough for us to get flat packs from GSG and the like.... But wouldn't something like a 21-in Eminence driver in a Devastator be a much better value after all prices are considered? Would you make a video of the DIY/ AIY process for Canadians? Thanks so much. Keep up the great work!
Hi Barrett, I've been contemplating going full berserk and installing a 220v circuit so I can run a Meyer Sound 1100 LFC. I've never seen anyone here on the tube (or elsewhere) do that though. What are your thoughts?
I've watched all your Arendal sub videos and they all have been informative. I like the D6000 but unfortunately being in Japan our voltage is 100VAC and I don't want to introduce a step-up transformer in order to use them. I like the Arendal as they have a great warranty with support as well as international voltage with all of the reviews I've watched with only minor negatives about the subs. The 1723 2V is just too big, I can go with dual 1723 1Vs or dual 1723 2Ss. I need to pay for shipping to Japan but Arendal does offset some of the shipping costs. So which dual would you recommend for HT and music 70-30% in a larger open room?
Fantastic video buddy. Wonder how the paradigm X13 would fair out or even the smaller JTR. Interesting and I think you made have opened something up to compare $$$$ to $$. Really great stuff and hope to see more videos like this. 👍
Thanks man, much appreciated. I wish I still had the XR13 to do that comparison. It is very interesting to see how products stack up at different price points.
Great comparison! I am in the weeds trying to get a theatre sub and every little detail helps. Any thoughts/recommendations on a 22” depth or less sub. I’d love a ported but they all seem huge and I need the wife approval factor. Might be a great comparison idea. Wife approved subs😂
I recently got the D6000 and was wondering what the gain should be set to since I'm used to a knob type where it would be set anywhere from 12-1 o clock. The "volume" goes up to 60 but I was wondering if 30 was really halfway as the output is quite low at that level. I set it to 40 before room correction and it was closer to my older sub (SVS PB 12 NSD set at halfway) in terms of loudness at that level. After 45, it does get really loud. Going from 45 to 50 is way more noticeable than 30-40. What would be an acceptable level to leave the gain at without going overboard and risking damage to the amp? I have also read that gain needs to be set to a minimum level that allows for maximum output (for example no lower than halfway). It's kinda hard to find a forum or message board with owners discussing the sub since it's fairly new and not a lot of people are aware of them yet (I think).
Tonewinner is using DB for their volume metric. Which will have different results when turning up versus something like a knob. It is somewhat subjective, but generally speaking every 10db you turn it up, it should be perceived as twice as loud. So 30 DB is not 1/2 as much as 60DB regarding perceived volume, it's far less than 1/2. I think 40 or 45 DB are very acceptable levels to have it set at. For my room I use 50DB. I hope that helps.
@@SpecOfTech This is exactly what I was wanting to find out. Now it makes more sense with how the perceived loudness increases. Thank you so much! After watching HomeTheaterGurus video about the D600 and saying the gain was more of a "volume attenuator" or something I was left scratching my head but I knew that it meant it wasn't the traditional gain I was used to. I will definitely play around with the settings now knowing this.
@@SpecOfTechjust bought a d6000 and set the volume at 50db. Can you tell me the your best setup such as ported or seal, dsp, phase etc. I put it at the right back of my seating connected from line out of JL e112. I want some rumbling at the right back so that’s why I bought it. Thank you
Even if you increase the gain on the low end, you will still hit compression at the exact same DB. You won't bet more SPL out of the low end, the DSP is compressing it because that is the max it can put out. Does that makes sense.
@@SpecOfTech . Is 'increasing low frequency Room Gain' & 'increasing the gain on the low end' accomplished in the same manner regardless of the result? How is that done exactly in both cases?
It's gotta be said. If your looking for serious output, do not buy Arendal subs. If your looking for subs that give you a lot of bang for your dollar do not buy Arendal subs. Overpriced with decent low end output IMO.
They look good and play good. There will be enough who would buy them and are damn happy with them. I do prefere power and frequencies under 20 hz ;) so I would buy JTR or maybe the much cheaper new Klipsch sub RP 1600 sw.
Remember one important thing - your location vs price ! Arendal is Norway and Im from Denmark - closeby. A lot of those subs you often compare with are svs, PSA, JTR and what else that you have in your country. Now lets take JTR - those weigh A LOT - freight cost for those is crazy then there is the import taxes and other special electronic extra tax because product is US and not Europe. I would assume the same Arendal and shipped to US - no clue about your tax system. Anyway Arendal makes a lot of sense in Denmark and JTR does not (no offense JTR just example !). That JTR sub would cost me 2.times the price before I have it. So production country vs your home country is a huge factor - at least for me - I dont have money on the trees 😎
Let’s not forget that output is only one variable. The Arendal’s have a nicer finish and a lot of control over the amp, as well as a great app to tweak the sound on the fly. If you’re into those sorts of things.
@@Thomasdk1405 Yep, I am from Germany and asked JTR how much shipping costs are for the 2400 Captivator. It's 800€ plus nearls 750€ Taxes. So the Arendal 1723 2V would cost me all inclusive 2999€ and the JTR 2400 Captivator would cost me over 5000€. So I will wait for the test of the Klipsch rp 1600 sw. I hope that this thing is also shaking the room very well and is performing clean notes. Otherwise I will buy the Arendal!
measurements have its place, it is a factor. but unfortunately overvalued for anything with a membrane, listening to the speakers/subs and rate them is more important. so much of the sound do not come through on graphs and numbers. potential buyers do themselves a disservice deciding on specs. for music atleast
@@twistacatz They released new ones. The 1400SW and 1600SW are the newish released ones and they’ve been going on sale on and off. The 1400SW has gone down to $700 USD for a 14” driver while the 1600SW has gone down to about $1099 for a 16” driver. The 1400SW at $700 is a really great deal.
Thank you for doing these comparisons. I'm currently using dual Rythmix FV18'S in my Dolby Atmos Ht. My little brother wants a similar setup, but he can't spend over 2k usd for subs. Thanks to your reviews and comparisons, Tonewinner is now on the map. It blew my mind that the D6000 out muscled Svs' flagship sub and was able to hang with Arendal's top dogs in sealed and ported mode. I know now what subwoofer that I will be recommending to my brother. Thank you again.
No problem brother, I'm glad you found the video helpful. Best of luck to your brother on his build!
I would be curious as to how the Monolith 16in THX Certified or the Monolith M-215 Dual 15in THX Certified would hold up?
So what sounded better for music the ardenal or tone winner
Those Legend speakers are gorgeous! Wish I had the budget for a Tone winner, seems like a budget champ.
Do u think monoprice monolith 10, 12 and 15 thx v2 subs is better than tonewinner subs then?.
The 15" Monolith subwoofer would be a great comparison.
What would happen if you blocked one or 2 of the ports on the D6000 would it roll off slower
Klipsch Reference RP-1600SW - when? Please, pleaae compare! That's in my sight right now!
I have been trying to get one, but I haven't had any luck so far. I need a solid contact at Klipsch. I hope the run into them at an audio show one day.
@@SpecOfTech Then I will wait! You're the only one I can trust before purchasing :)
one point that is missed here in subwoofer comparison, people add dsp or eq so a frequency response do not matter much, even measures at max volume since you let one frequency hold back the rest.
It's interesting to see some output differences above 30hz between the 2S and 2V in sealed mode. With the same amp you would think these would be mostly identical. Bigger cabinet on the 2V giving it an advantage? Or was there another variable?
Very comprehensive comparison 👍🏻
Surprised from results that u find out.
Definitely can buy two Tonewinner D6000 than Arendal 1723 V2.
Are still running jtr subs or have you changed
Great video as usual! Killer subs, unfortunately in my new place a subwoofer means a dog in a submarine!!!😂😂 Tonewinner really shows up to play. I really hope that TW makes a splash in the market and show the other manufacturers that great quality does NOT mean outrageous prices. Cheers!
? 2 D6000 vs 2 SVS better or same at high volume?
Excellent video. I really enjoyed it.
Thanks brother!
Stark Sound SW15P would be a good comparison to the Tonewinner for Bang for Buck category!
I'd be curious to see that as well.
Hey Barrett. Thanks for providing these great comparisons. I appreciate your time, effort, resource, dedication, and love for the hobby.
What about DIY subs? I'm in Canada also, and it's a little tough for us to get flat packs from GSG and the like.... But wouldn't something like a 21-in Eminence driver in a Devastator be a much better value after all prices are considered?
Would you make a video of the DIY/ AIY process for Canadians?
Thanks so much. Keep up the great work!
Hi Barrett,
I've been contemplating going full berserk and installing a 220v circuit so I can run a Meyer Sound 1100 LFC. I've never seen anyone here on the tube (or elsewhere) do that though. What are your thoughts?
Hi! Would you do one video for D4000 vs Mbws ms12?
I've watched all your Arendal sub videos and they all have been informative. I like the D6000 but unfortunately being in Japan our voltage is 100VAC and I don't want to introduce a step-up transformer in order to use them. I like the Arendal as they have a great warranty with support as well as international voltage with all of the reviews I've watched with only minor negatives about the subs. The 1723 2V is just too big, I can go with dual 1723 1Vs or dual 1723 2Ss. I need to pay for shipping to Japan but Arendal does offset some of the shipping costs. So which dual would you recommend for HT and music 70-30% in a larger open room?
You can always ask Tonewinner if setting the power switch on the back of the D6000 to 110v will also work on 100v? It might just work perfectly.
One is craftsmanship the other is brute boom. I would go brute boom 2X!
Buy cheaper and be happier ✌️😉👍
Fantastic video buddy. Wonder how the paradigm X13 would fair out or even the smaller JTR. Interesting and I think you made have opened something up to compare $$$$ to $$. Really great stuff and hope to see more videos like this. 👍
Thanks man, much appreciated. I wish I still had the XR13 to do that comparison. It is very interesting to see how products stack up at different price points.
@SpecOfTech I agree and I think it's the best videos to watch
You should really measure group delay and distortion as well when comparing.. 👍
One day I would like to be able to conduct CEA2010 measurements...one day!
Great comparison! I am in the weeds trying to get a theatre sub and every little detail helps. Any thoughts/recommendations on a 22” depth or less sub. I’d love a ported but they all seem huge and I need the wife approval factor. Might be a great comparison idea. Wife approved subs😂
Noooo! Where are the chapters???!
I hid them within the video...it's like an Easter egg hunt lol. No more skipping my exciting blabbing 😜.
@@SpecOfTech I love the exciting blabbling! I also love when to click exactly in the second watch :D
I recently got the D6000 and was wondering what the gain should be set to since I'm used to a knob type where it would be set anywhere from 12-1 o clock.
The "volume" goes up to 60 but I was wondering if 30 was really halfway as the output is quite low at that level. I set it to 40 before room correction and it was closer to my older sub (SVS PB 12 NSD set at halfway) in terms of loudness at that level.
After 45, it does get really loud. Going from 45 to 50 is way more noticeable than 30-40. What would be an acceptable level to leave the gain at without going overboard and risking damage to the amp? I have also read that gain needs to be set to a minimum level that allows for maximum output (for example no lower than halfway).
It's kinda hard to find a forum or message board with owners discussing the sub since it's fairly new and not a lot of people are aware of them yet (I think).
Tonewinner is using DB for their volume metric. Which will have different results when turning up versus something like a knob. It is somewhat subjective, but generally speaking every 10db you turn it up, it should be perceived as twice as loud. So 30 DB is not 1/2 as much as 60DB regarding perceived volume, it's far less than 1/2.
I think 40 or 45 DB are very acceptable levels to have it set at. For my room I use 50DB.
I hope that helps.
@@SpecOfTech This is exactly what I was wanting to find out. Now it makes more sense with how the perceived loudness increases. Thank you so much!
After watching HomeTheaterGurus video about the D600 and saying the gain was more of a "volume attenuator" or something I was left scratching my head but I knew that it meant it wasn't the traditional gain I was used to.
I will definitely play around with the settings now knowing this.
@@SpecOfTechjust bought a d6000 and set the volume at 50db. Can you tell me the your best setup such as ported or seal, dsp, phase etc. I put it at the right back of my seating connected from line out of JL e112. I want some rumbling at the right back so that’s why I bought it. Thank you
. Why not increase low frequency Room Gain instead of buying a lower, bigger Sub?
Acid Jazz, Funk & Brass 🔈🔉🔊
Even if you increase the gain on the low end, you will still hit compression at the exact same DB. You won't bet more SPL out of the low end, the DSP is compressing it because that is the max it can put out. Does that makes sense.
@@SpecOfTech
. Is 'increasing low frequency Room Gain' & 'increasing the gain on the low end' accomplished in the same manner regardless of the result? How is that done exactly in both cases?
Tonewinner for the win! You can get 2 tonewinners for the price of one ofthe Arendal's and have better room respone and more output.
So buy 2 D6000 for less and blow away the Arandal. End of story.
It's gotta be said. If your looking for serious output, do not buy Arendal subs. If your looking for subs that give you a lot of bang for your dollar do not buy Arendal subs. Overpriced with decent low end output IMO.
They look good and play good. There will be enough who would buy them and are damn happy with them. I do prefere power and frequencies under 20 hz ;) so I would buy JTR or maybe the much cheaper new Klipsch sub RP 1600 sw.
Remember one important thing - your location vs price ! Arendal is Norway and Im from Denmark - closeby. A lot of those subs you often compare with are svs, PSA, JTR and what else that you have in your country. Now lets take JTR - those weigh A LOT - freight cost for those is crazy then there is the import taxes and other special electronic extra tax because product is US and not Europe. I would assume the same Arendal and shipped to US - no clue about your tax system. Anyway Arendal makes a lot of sense in Denmark and JTR does not (no offense JTR just example !). That JTR sub would cost me 2.times the price before I have it.
So production country vs your home country is a huge factor - at least for me - I dont have money on the trees 😎
Let’s not forget that output is only one variable. The Arendal’s have a nicer finish and a lot of control over the amp, as well as a great app to tweak the sound on the fly. If you’re into those sorts of things.
@@Thomasdk1405 Yep, I am from Germany and asked JTR how much shipping costs are for the 2400 Captivator. It's 800€ plus nearls 750€ Taxes. So the Arendal 1723 2V would cost me all inclusive 2999€ and the JTR 2400 Captivator would cost me over 5000€. So I will wait for the test of the Klipsch rp 1600 sw. I hope that this thing is also shaking the room very well and is performing clean notes. Otherwise I will buy the Arendal!
measurements have its place, it is a factor. but unfortunately overvalued for anything with a membrane, listening to the speakers/subs and rate them is more important. so much of the sound do not come through on graphs and numbers. potential buyers do themselves a disservice deciding on specs. for music atleast
Test the klipsch rp 1600sw and blow everything away for the money 😅
Klipsch... you must be joking. Klipsch subs are a waste of money bro.
I would like to get the 1600SW in for review and measurements. From what I've seen online, the 1600 is well designed, and measures quite well.
@@twistacatz Yeah bro: for the old ones you are absolutely right but the new ones are incredible for the money
@@SpecOfTech Ooooooh that would be great!
@@twistacatz They released new ones. The 1400SW and 1600SW are the newish released ones and they’ve been going on sale on and off. The 1400SW has gone down to $700 USD for a 14” driver while the 1600SW has gone down to about $1099 for a 16” driver.
The 1400SW at $700 is a really great deal.
way too much focus on specs and measurements. base a review more on your ears