I really loved this video! I appreciate you disabling a lot of add-ons for the sake of beginners while introducing them when necessary (like Bool Tools), it ended up making everything extremely beginner-friendly! I never felt lost at any point because you explained so thoroughly everything you were doing and for what purpose. You clarified many times that some things were "not necessary" but I'm very glad you didn't skip over things that will save rookies from trouble down the road! My one suggestion is, if you've got the time, I would love timestamps for your process because I have the tendency to return to these types of tutorials to look for something specific. For this video, you start with an intro up until around 2:00, then you add the metal rod until around 4:00, create foundation for hinge until 7:30, split hinge into 2 parts until 10:00, rotate hinge until 13:00, connect hinge to frame and door until 17:00, work with rivets until 20:00, account for real world error until 22:00, check door can properly rotate until 25:00, and then final touches/result/outro (all timestamps greatly estimated). With the timestamps, it's easier to create a hinge on my own without having to skip around the video later when I've forgotten when things happen. Whether you add timestamps or not, love the tutorials regardless :)
Thanks so much. That is really helpful. I do add that in to some of my videos and I probably should do it to more. I will endevour to, it just need to get it into my head to note it down in the editing process. Also I always wonder what people want as the "chapters" so this is really nice to see what you would find useful.
Gotta say that 'changing pivot point to the active element' is EXACTLY what I needed for a model I'm working on and didn't know about since I need to test a rotating part and I was pulling my hair out trying to work it out. As always Vaul, your channel is super helpful and I've been trying to spread the word of it as and where I can.
@@MartinJamesLittle This is exactly what I was doing it for, a multipart model and I wanted to see if the parts in question moved the way I wanted them to when being fully assembled.
Thanks so much for spreading the word, its massively appreciated. And the active object trick is really nice, for many hard surface projects I find it quicker to work with than bothering to rig them when I don't have that many poses to make.
I don’t even 3D model or 3D print but I love watching your videos. I like learning about this stuff so I watch a lot of Blender tutorials but from a variety of channels, but yours are by far the best. Your teaching method is top notch and granular but easy to follow. The flow and pace of the videos are perfect and I always feel like I’m learning something new even if it’s the same technique that you’ve covered, there’s always a fresh twist on it. On top of that the 3D aspect brings its own set of requirements which stand apart from the standard 3D modeling for renders workflow. At the end of the day, your expertise shines through all of your videos and you really put out the best blender content on TH-cam (in my opinion of course) keep it up 👍
Thanks so much 😁 Its always nice to hear that people are appreciating these tutorials and that they continue to be helpful for people to find out new ideas and ways of doing things. It really does make the time put into making the videos worth it, especially as when I started the channel I wasn't sure how much interest there would be in just another set of Blender focused tutorials. I hope you keep finding them interesting
Another great and clear video. If you're doing larger FDM instead of resin, a great trick is to make the hole about 1.8mm wide. Then you can use a bit of filament as the hinge pin.
Hi, love this tutorial as I do all your tutorials! I had a few questions about your process from blender to 3d printing. I am creating modular walls to print. However, I am wondering how many faces is normal for a detailed wall section with wood beams and bricks with alpha textures (wood) and displacement modifiers(clouds on bricks). Finally, I was wondering how you boolean/join your models together. It gives me many many artefacts if I do either. Is this normal? or should I change my process somehow? Kind regards
I mean you're going to end up with a VERY high vertex mesh using sculpting and modifiers in both. I'd try and use the decimate modifier at points to reduce the amount that's there. I would boolean things together but it's likely to need some fixing. Reducing the faces should help that and a lot of the issues might be fixable in 3D builder as well.
Love this tutorial again! I had a question about sculpting wood on larger pieces. I have created an wooden airship in blender using geometry. However, now I wish to sculpt wooden planks on there. However, sculpting the entire hull really crunches my pc. Furthermore, it simply looks very undetailed. Would you create one single plank and then paste that on the hull? Really dont know how to properlly handle this I hope you know a good method, Kind regards
That is what I did for the building. After I sculpted it I then reduced the vertex/face count using the decimate modifier so I could use multiples. But I should say even with this when I had everything in the file I noticed it slowed my laptop (and it's a pretty good laptop). A simpler method would be to create the groves for the wood pattern and boolean them out of the planks, that should create less geometry.
@@ArtisansofVaul Thank you for the quick reply! If I were to sculpt 1 plank, how would I go about bending it around the hull? Furthermore, the planks are not uniform
@yosri ayache That is the tricky part admittedly. I'd probably project it onto the surface but that may take more computing power than you have. Or draw lines on the outside of the shape and then deform the plank along the curve. But that could be tricky to get that angle right over a boat hull. I'd probably try the project method.
@@ArtisansofVaul are you by any chance planning on doing a tutorial on this or do you maybe know a good tutorial that explains this in more detail? Thank you in advance for the advice!
Hopefully the video at the end shows that it turned out really well. I have to say I hadn't considered turning the hinge the other way for the top. Its in some ways so simple but it just didn't occur to me as I made it but its an excellent idea as it would mean that even without the frame the door wouldn't be able to be lifted off upwards without taking out the pins. Thanks so much!
Extremely good video, pace, presentation and information. Exactly the detail and explanation I need! I really appreciate your videos, thank you!
Thanks so much. I always worry about if too fast or too slow on the pace so it's great to know when I've hit the mark 👍🏻😁
I really loved this video! I appreciate you disabling a lot of add-ons for the sake of beginners while introducing them when necessary (like Bool Tools), it ended up making everything extremely beginner-friendly! I never felt lost at any point because you explained so thoroughly everything you were doing and for what purpose. You clarified many times that some things were "not necessary" but I'm very glad you didn't skip over things that will save rookies from trouble down the road!
My one suggestion is, if you've got the time, I would love timestamps for your process because I have the tendency to return to these types of tutorials to look for something specific. For this video, you start with an intro up until around 2:00, then you add the metal rod until around 4:00, create foundation for hinge until 7:30, split hinge into 2 parts until 10:00, rotate hinge until 13:00, connect hinge to frame and door until 17:00, work with rivets until 20:00, account for real world error until 22:00, check door can properly rotate until 25:00, and then final touches/result/outro (all timestamps greatly estimated). With the timestamps, it's easier to create a hinge on my own without having to skip around the video later when I've forgotten when things happen.
Whether you add timestamps or not, love the tutorials regardless :)
Thanks so much. That is really helpful. I do add that in to some of my videos and I probably should do it to more. I will endevour to, it just need to get it into my head to note it down in the editing process. Also I always wonder what people want as the "chapters" so this is really nice to see what you would find useful.
Gotta say that 'changing pivot point to the active element' is EXACTLY what I needed for a model I'm working on and didn't know about since I need to test a rotating part and I was pulling my hair out trying to work it out. As always Vaul, your channel is super helpful and I've been trying to spread the word of it as and where I can.
Cheap man's rigging, very handy for posing multi part models before exporting as a single stl
@@MartinJamesLittle This is exactly what I was doing it for, a multipart model and I wanted to see if the parts in question moved the way I wanted them to when being fully assembled.
Thanks so much for spreading the word, its massively appreciated. And the active object trick is really nice, for many hard surface projects I find it quicker to work with than bothering to rig them when I don't have that many poses to make.
I don’t even 3D model or 3D print but I love watching your videos. I like learning about this stuff so I watch a lot of Blender tutorials but from a variety of channels, but yours are by far the best. Your teaching method is top notch and granular but easy to follow. The flow and pace of the videos are perfect and I always feel like I’m learning something new even if it’s the same technique that you’ve covered, there’s always a fresh twist on it. On top of that the 3D aspect brings its own set of requirements which stand apart from the standard 3D modeling for renders workflow. At the end of the day, your expertise shines through all of your videos and you really put out the best blender content on TH-cam (in my opinion of course) keep it up 👍
Thanks so much 😁 Its always nice to hear that people are appreciating these tutorials and that they continue to be helpful for people to find out new ideas and ways of doing things. It really does make the time put into making the videos worth it, especially as when I started the channel I wasn't sure how much interest there would be in just another set of Blender focused tutorials. I hope you keep finding them interesting
@@ArtisansofVaul Thank you for putting in the work! 😁 you’re greatly appreciated here!
Another great and clear video. If you're doing larger FDM instead of resin, a great trick is to make the hole about 1.8mm wide. Then you can use a bit of filament as the hinge pin.
That's a great/resourceful idea. Cunning. Nice one!
Another great video with full professional delivery. Many thanks.
Cheers. 😁👌 Glad it was interesting.
as an ex-Carpenter and Joiner the lack of door stops or a rebated frame is disturbing, lol, another great video, thanks
Haha. My appologies to all of the carpenters of the world.
Hi, love this tutorial as I do all your tutorials! I had a few questions about your process from blender to 3d printing. I am creating modular walls to print. However, I am wondering how many faces is normal for a detailed wall section with wood beams and bricks with alpha textures (wood) and displacement modifiers(clouds on bricks). Finally, I was wondering how you boolean/join your models together. It gives me many many artefacts if I do either. Is this normal? or should I change my process somehow? Kind regards
I mean you're going to end up with a VERY high vertex mesh using sculpting and modifiers in both. I'd try and use the decimate modifier at points to reduce the amount that's there. I would boolean things together but it's likely to need some fixing. Reducing the faces should help that and a lot of the issues might be fixable in 3D builder as well.
Love this tutorial again! I had a question about sculpting wood on larger pieces. I have created an wooden airship in blender using geometry. However, now I wish to sculpt wooden planks on there. However, sculpting the entire hull really crunches my pc. Furthermore, it simply looks very undetailed. Would you create one single plank and then paste that on the hull? Really dont know how to properlly handle this
I hope you know a good method, Kind regards
That is what I did for the building. After I sculpted it I then reduced the vertex/face count using the decimate modifier so I could use multiples. But I should say even with this when I had everything in the file I noticed it slowed my laptop (and it's a pretty good laptop). A simpler method would be to create the groves for the wood pattern and boolean them out of the planks, that should create less geometry.
@@ArtisansofVaul Thank you for the quick reply! If I were to sculpt 1 plank, how would I go about bending it around the hull? Furthermore, the planks are not uniform
@yosri ayache That is the tricky part admittedly. I'd probably project it onto the surface but that may take more computing power than you have. Or draw lines on the outside of the shape and then deform the plank along the curve. But that could be tricky to get that angle right over a boat hull. I'd probably try the project method.
@@ArtisansofVaul are you by any chance planning on doing a tutorial on this or do you maybe know a good tutorial that explains this in more detail? Thank you in advance for the advice!
really cool man! im watching this while dessupporting 78 25-45mm dnd minis. couldnt ask for better company than vaul ^^
Thanks a lot. Having made this I was thinking it would be great for something like roleplay or a dungeon crawler game like Warhammer Quest or DnD.
@@ArtisansofVaul the hinge came out really well and yeah it's a good bit but I do it for work. We print a metric butt load of DND minis a day heh.
How did the hinge assembly work out? Just wondering because the top hinge was turned the same way as the bottom hinge.
Hopefully the video at the end shows that it turned out really well. I have to say I hadn't considered turning the hinge the other way for the top. Its in some ways so simple but it just didn't occur to me as I made it but its an excellent idea as it would mean that even without the frame the door wouldn't be able to be lifted off upwards without taking out the pins. Thanks so much!
@@ArtisansofVaul You're very welcome
Is this Westie who makes COD videos? Because their voice sounds SO similar!
Haha. It isn't but Im going to have to look this person up!