Thanks Grant, for a comprehensive review, and for skipping the obvious. I've come across your channel whilst searching for an answer to the reason my blade slips while under heavy load. I thought it was the blade itself slipping or jumping in the clamp detents, though found in time that the shaft can be rotated with reasonable hand pressure to the side of the blade. The tool has been in heavy use for 3+ years so I'm not surprised if there's wear in the gearbox. It doesn't slip with a ratcheting type feel though, as might be expected with stripped nylon splines. Just wondering if you have any thoughts on where the slippage might occur. The spare parts lists don't show any replaceable parts for inside the gear box. As far as I understand there's no physical connection between the motor and the gear box other than the drive bearing riding inside the oscillating fork. It seems a replacement gearbox is in order. In terms of dependability, I can't break this thing. Not the quick release blade change lever pivot points, or the switch wires, or even the switch lock-on holding tabs. She's been a great piece of equipment in my down under Renovations business. Love the jabs back at Wed,Thur,Fri too. Cheers
Hi Robert, my first thought would point towards the inner surfaces of the fork being worn. Maybe the clearance between the bearing on the motor and the prongs of the fork has increased after years of use and so the eccentric rotation is not translating into the full full sweeping motion the blade once had. This is a pure guess. I recon you would be able to see wear here by cleaning all the grease and looking for any worn or sharp edges where the bearing normally rides on the fork. I haven't stripped the gearbox far enough to witness how the fork joins onto the spindle / arbor shaft but, at a guess, this is an interference fit / press fit between the fork and the shaft. Maybe this is starting to loosen however, if this is happening, I would think it will loosen very quickly over a short period of time and you would loose complete oscillation very quickly. The last part that comes to mind is where the spindle shaft joins onto the blade holder. Also guessing that this is just an interference fit. If this is starting to loosen, you may be able to rotate it by hand and see if there is any movement between the blade holder and shaft. If you remove the gearbox, hold the fork securely to one side and try rotate the tool holder end from side to side, if you feel moment / slop / play then it's likely the joints as a mentioned above. Further than that, my guess is as good as yours... and unfortunately I won't be able to get near the tool for some time so I cant even have a closer look for you. Please let me know if you eventually find the problem? I'm glad to hear the rest of the tool has held up well with heavy use. Its always nice to hear. Keep safe and well.
*The 3 speed is good **MyBest.Tools** trying to keep to a low speed for a long time with just the trigger is hard.The only negative is I keep bumping the on/off switch when changing blades, not dangerous but annoying.*
*We are replacing the subfloor in our home **MyBest.Tools** and this tool has proved to be invaluable. So many different uses. Cutting away boards in tight places, cutting water pipes to name a few. We love Dewalt tools in general, but have really enjoyed the flexibility and durability of this multitool.*
CAV # on the plastic parts is likely cavity number for the die they're using. They mold a bunch of these parts in the same tool, so knowing which cavity of the tool a part came from is very helpful for quality control.
Hi Mike, thanks for the info... makes sense for when a part is starting to look a little out of spec, they can identify the die and either repair or replace it.
If I am incorrect please explain but thinking about soldered connections vs a screw terminal on a vibrating tool like this I definitely think solder would be better than a screw. With intense vibrations screws will shake themselves loose quite easily unless they are wired in place. I definitely think a crimped connection would be best though.
I think your guess is as good as mine, but possibly a combination of crimped, soldered and heat shrink joints would be good? Possibly the use of a terminal pin where the wire is crimped in two places, the back being crimped around the insulation and the front crimped and soldered around the wire conductor... then the terminal pin is soldered to wherever it's going... then heat shrink over the lot. Thoughts around using a terminal pin with two crimps is to provide better strain relief, so that vibration / flex / 'the fatigue point' is transferred to the insulation and not directly on the conductor itself (in the case where the conductor is only soldered with no other support or insulation). This lends itself to a much lower failure rate because of less metal fatigue. Other than crimped connections, I've also seen soldered connections with epoxy / potting over, which would also work, so long as the epoxy sufficiently covers the insulation and the terminal to which the conductor is soldered, and of course sticks well enough over time (doesn't become brittle and crack). Or like in another comment you made, at least heat shrink over the entire connection, with sufficient cover over the wires insulation and the terminal to which its soldered (the heat shrink providing mechanical support over the entire connection and removing strain from the wire conductor). I think screwed connections can also withstand a bit of vibration but only if thread locker is used... but this comes at cost. But at the end, I guess it comes down to cost vs reward... if the failure rate is acceptable relative the cost saving, then I guess thats the compromise.
Hi Mick, off hand right now, I can't remember exactly what the bearing number is however I recall somebody else asking in a comment or somebody else providing the part number for that bearing... it was an odd one but wasn't expensive to replace if I remember correctly. It was a comment or series of back and forth replies on this video th-cam.com/video/TYcH3zOqSSE/w-d-xo.html I think it was a chat with Elgin Octave where he provided a link to an exploded diagram parts view with pricing, etc. Hope this helps.
When I push down the handle to change the blade it will not open enough. I could use a pair of pump pliers to squeeze it enough to open it but now that doesn't work. Do you have any idea of what part I would need or how to address it?
Hi Jamie, it's difficult to diagnose without seeing the tool. The first thing that jumps to mind is the silver Clamp Lever which could be worn (or bending and not allowing the flange to retract enough) The clamp lever is what pulls back on the lower flange and compresses the spring. Part number is N254619 on my tool. There are two pivot points (pins) on either side of of the lower flange. The Clamp Lever pushes down on these two pins resulting in the spring being compressed. I'm thinking that the plastic that pushes on these two pins is worn out and not allowing the flange to be compressed enough. Just a guess though. To check, you'll have to remove the Clamp Lever and inspect the area where the two pins interface with the lever. Let us know how it goes?
Hey, Do you know exactly what type of grease/lubricant that is inside the gearbox at around 16:00? I would think it would have to be good considering the speed/heat of the oscillations. Thanks.
Hi, I'm not exactly sure what grease it is but I would loosely guess its a general purpose Lithium grease? (although I'm no expert on grease so maybe I'm wrong) (Update on grease? in this video th-cam.com/video/TYcH3zOqSSE/w-d-xo.html )
Hi do you know where the “c”shape rubber locates on the tool please? i’ve stripped it down but i am left wondering where it goes, thanks for the great vid
HI G R, could you send a picture of the rubber? grantburtonbuilds@gmail.com I don't recall and don't see having referred to it i the video and can't recall exactly what it looks like.
You did not show how you got the Motor separated from the head, can you please explain to me how you did it because I cannot get my own off....... I have loosened the two screws and it's still not separating. Need help please. And I cannot seem to find any other videos of DeWalt's oscillating tool tear down!
Hi Shawn, once both screws are loose, the motor should pull out of the gearbox fairly easily. There is a rubber O-ring which seals the casing insert on the motor side to the gearbox housing... maybe this is just catching up a bit, or maybe your parts are better machined and fitting a bit more snug than mine. I’ve made an update video with a clip showing the removal of the motor from the gearbox here th-cam.com/video/TYcH3zOqSSE/w-d-xo.html Feel free to check it out... hope it helps.
Thank you Grant, The slippage must be occuring at the press fit conection of the Arbour shaft to the gearbox fork. I can view the Arbour shaft rotation at the back of the gearbox when rotating the head of the Arbour. I expect this is not a solid connection to protect the tool from destroying itself if the blade becomes bound up in a workpiece, e.g. sawtoothing hardwood floorboards for a room extension (there's easier ways if the clients budget demands it but otherwise I do it the hard way). The press connection is still quite tight and takes a reasonable amount of pressure to slip the joint, a such this only becomes an inconvenience under heavy work. I suspect it came about from one of the young guys forcing blunt blades to finish a job. I don't blame them for that, it's my job to supply consumables. I have ordered a replacement gearbox for about 60% of the cost of a new, skin only dcs354. I opted to repair my 355 as I figured the 354 may just be a cheaply made version for the bigbox DIY market. I'll provide an update following the replacement gearbox and some in-service use. Regards. Rob
Robert Hammond Awesome... thanks for your update. It’s really nice to receive feedback which may be able to help future viewers that may experience similar problems. Thanks very much.
Hi Emilie, its a standard bearing... The centre shaft that the bearing fits over is slightly offset from centre which causes the back and forth movement when rotating (very similar to a crankshaft in an engine).
mine stops working in the middle of or the trigger doesn’t work all the time I have to push the trigger several times to make it work. I noticed dirt inside the trigger and cleaned superficially with alcohol and it worked but did it again. what are your thoughts??
Hi juancha79, initial thoughts are that dirt / dust / debris have made its way into the switch assembly and into the potentiometer / variable resistor that interfaces with the speed controller to control speed / on / off (I say potentiometer buy it could very well be another encoder of sorts). The dirt has likely been rubbing on the pads of the potentiometer as the switch is being used and caused wear (or so much dirt that the pads aren't even in contact anymore). If the wear is not too bad, a good clean out with some electrical contact cleaner spray might do the trick. If the pads are completely worn through then the it's probably too late. Keep us posted with your repair.
Unfortunately at the moment I can’t justify buying the nail gun just to tear it down because I don’t really have a need for one, but I would love to do a teardown. Hopefully in the future if I ever receive money from these videos, I’ll be able to use that money to purchase and review tools on request. All of the tools that I have reviewed and torn down in previous videos I’ve personally paid for and needed.
So there is lots of metal to support the spring, we see this in the housing, and it looked like an H not an N to me where you questioned the motor. Thanks for the break down. In the market for one now. I have 2 others, one is Makita cordless and it's bulky and heavy, the other is rocker and it's corded. I switched out my cordless tools from Makita to Dewalt. Does anyone buy after market batteries for these tools and how do they hold up?
Hi Stephen, you are correct, there is a lot of metal support structure within the yellow plastic point of the clamshell and after opening it up again, the weak point is definitely going to be the two plastic ears on the silver release lever (not to say that its weak... its probably fairly strong and reinforced with 50% glass fibre but that's likely the weakest point). Here is a second teardown with another closer look at the section we were discussing. th-cam.com/video/CZEkC3bHx0U/w-d-xo.html
In addition, I've had no experience with aftermarket / pirate batteries for these tools but the channel AVE explored the difference between the Dewalt aftermarket and original batteries. I left a link in this video. th-cam.com/video/CZEkC3bHx0U/w-d-xo.html
On my multi tool the very center screw , when tight will make the tool start and stop. I had to remove the screw completely and now the tool will stay on. Will I have problems with this later on, do you think one of the wires are routed wrong.
Hi James, I doubt if one of the wires are routed incorrectly because they are pretty short and pretty much have to follow a direct path from the speed controller to the motor. This is a wild guess but if you open it up and noting appears to be wrong, then maybe there is problem with the switch or board internally and when compressed by the case / tight middle screw, it causes a poor connection due to a dry joint or cracked PCB track? Like I said... just a wild guess. It could also be a dry joint at the motor connection or within the wires leading to the motor and again, when clamped into the shell, maybe the break in the wire is being pulled apart? If under warranty, send it back or if out of warranty, maybe do like Daniel and open it up and see if there is anything that looks suspect.
Hi PunchyMuffin, a while back somebody did post a part number. It was either in this video or one of the other two videos on my channel that relate to this tool... I looked through all the comments and can't seem to find it now... strange, because I know it was there as it's been referred to before.
Sir, thank you for your video I appreciate it! I have a question, I have a had two DeWalt oscillating tool ( cordless ) each one for less than one year....... The same problem occurred with each one of them, the ball bearing that's on the motor that causes the tool to vibrate somehow on both of them it breaks, and in both cases it happened while in use. So now I have two tools oscillating tool that doesn't work, love DeWalt tools but I will never buy them again pertaining to oscillating tools. Could you recommend a better more efficient oscillating tool, I'm attached to dewalt tools but no more oscillating tools from them...... I have and had many DeWalt tools, I expected better from them! Do you have any suggestions?
Hi Shawn, are you referring to the ball bearing that runs between the fork at the input side of the gearbox? If it's that bearing, maybe a repair option would be to order a replacement bearing from a local / online bearing shop and press it on? My bearing measures at 7x21x6mm (7mm Internal diameter, 21mm external diameter and 6mm thick) and what looks like a standard deep groove ball bearing. I cant really recommend any other oscillating tools because I don't have experience with any others so any recommendation I did try to make would only be based on user reviews, which means it wouldn't be a recommendation based on personal hard evidence / experience. Sorry I couldn't be of assistance in this regard.
I just tore mine done and the bearing came apart, also. I've used it for 3 years though. I may try to find a bearing with the measurements you provided, Grant. Thanks
I just spent quite some time trying to find the bearing, with no luck. I did find it listed on some Chinese sites where you need to buy a very large quantity. Best I can tell, it's bearing 607X2T or 77j.
Hi Joni, yes you are correct. The DCS 355 is from their Atomic Series of tools and the DCS356 is the a newer version with 3 Speed Control selector that works together with the variable speed trigger. DCS354 Oscillations/min: 0 - 18 000 OPM DCS355 Oscillations/min: 0 - 20 000 OPM DCS356 Oscillations/min: 0 - 13 000 / 0 - 17 000 / 0 - 20 000 OPM I also believe that the 356 runs a little more quiet and has slightly reduced vibration (from what others have said) .
Just got one of these for repair - switch found to be faulty, full of dust. The cost of a new switch is £88.00 !!! ( the switch & motor come as one assembly - NICE one DEWALT %**@@*% )
Planned obsolescence possibly? I agree that this is a weak point on many of their (and other brands) of tools. Under normal circumstances, I'd just disassemble the switch, clean / repair it, and use the tool again (hack the switch if I have to) however we can't be doing a hack job when repairing a clients tools... need to be as professional as possible. I also find it completely unnecessary that they make us buy the complete switch and motor assembly... damn money making scheme IMO. The hall sensor wires are on a block style connector so super easy to unplug and the three motor wires can easily be unsoldered (Now if they had just used a spaded and screwed connector arrangement, that would have made everybody life much easier).
@@GrantBurton Imanaged to fix it :D the fault was actually a broken Brown wire , within milimetres from where it is soldered to the battery connector , & IN the heatshrink - very hard to detect as the wire DEWALT use is very stiff, and the reson it broke due to the vibration of the machine. I am still angry with DEWALT for having a spare part sub-assembly the is 90% of the cost of a new multi-tool, and for using stiff wires & solder joints in a high vibration use.
@@andy530i I wonder if it would have been better if the wires were crimped to a terminal lug and then that terminal lug was spot welded or fastened (using a machine screw) onto the battery terminal plate?
I suppose it is a weak point but may be stronger than we think... I'm no materials engineer but it is reinforced with 50% glass fibre which makes it pretty stiff and strong. I just would have personally liked to see a little more material around the levers hinge point (or a completely metal lever).
Good to see the clip, When I press the trigger, it clicks/kicks but no response to motor. Do you think it's a motor or starter part? Any advice will help. I have video for my tool not working th-cam.com/video/42MIJWIuZPo/w-d-xo.html
Hi Gil, watched your video... that's a pretty loud click / knock. I'm guessing its out of warranty so as a start, I would say open up the unit and split the gearbox from the motor. That click sounds like a solid mechanical click or knock. Check that the motor is spinning freely. Maybe also pull the trigger and notice if the motor runs or not. The motor should freely run when detached from the gearbox. Guessing that a back or front motor bearing may be collapsed or housing cracked and when power is applied, the rotor pulls up rapidly against the stator and then jams creating that knocking sound -OR- Something on the gearbox side is catching up... Maybe the fork or 'hopefully not' something within the gearbox. Kind of difficult to say without physically inspecting the unit. Let us know what you find?
Hi Silent Hill, I made another teardown video, showing how the clamshell is opened, etc. Once the clamshell is open, all of the internals basically just lift out of the clamshell... nothing to technical. Video is here if you are interested. th-cam.com/video/CZEkC3bHx0U/w-d-xo.html
Guy who made this video is soooo selfish y didn't u just.put that part , where u take apart the gear box from.motor ,lol or did u call ur friend to do it for u bro???
![TEARDOWN Dewalt XR DCD796 20v MAX Brushless Drill - Burton Builds S03E04 [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/i_dQjMNCUqY/mqdefault.jpg)
![TEARDOWN Dewalt XR DCD796 20v MAX Brushless Drill - Burton Builds S03E04 [4K]](/img/tr.png)
Thanks Grant, for a comprehensive review, and for skipping the obvious.
I've come across your channel whilst searching for an answer to the reason my blade slips while under heavy load.
I thought it was the blade itself slipping or jumping in the clamp detents, though found in time that the shaft can be rotated with reasonable hand pressure to the side of the blade.
The tool has been in heavy use for 3+ years so I'm not surprised if there's wear in the gearbox.
It doesn't slip with a ratcheting type feel though, as might be expected with stripped nylon splines.
Just wondering if you have any thoughts on where the slippage might occur.
The spare parts lists don't show any replaceable parts for inside the gear box.
As far as I understand there's no physical connection between the motor and the gear box other than the drive bearing riding inside the oscillating fork.
It seems a replacement gearbox is in order.
In terms of dependability, I can't break this thing.
Not the quick release blade change lever pivot points, or the switch wires, or even the switch lock-on holding tabs.
She's been a great piece of equipment in my down under Renovations business.
Love the jabs back at Wed,Thur,Fri too.
Cheers
Hi Robert, my first thought would point towards the inner surfaces of the fork being worn. Maybe the clearance between the bearing on the motor and the prongs of the fork has increased after years of use and so the eccentric rotation is not translating into the full full sweeping motion the blade once had. This is a pure guess. I recon you would be able to see wear here by cleaning all the grease and looking for any worn or sharp edges where the bearing normally rides on the fork.
I haven't stripped the gearbox far enough to witness how the fork joins onto the spindle / arbor shaft but, at a guess, this is an interference fit / press fit between the fork and the shaft. Maybe this is starting to loosen however, if this is happening, I would think it will loosen very quickly over a short period of time and you would loose complete oscillation very quickly.
The last part that comes to mind is where the spindle shaft joins onto the blade holder. Also guessing that this is just an interference fit. If this is starting to loosen, you may be able to rotate it by hand and see if there is any movement between the blade holder and shaft.
If you remove the gearbox, hold the fork securely to one side and try rotate the tool holder end from side to side, if you feel moment / slop / play then it's likely the joints as a mentioned above.
Further than that, my guess is as good as yours... and unfortunately I won't be able to get near the tool for some time so I cant even have a closer look for you.
Please let me know if you eventually find the problem?
I'm glad to hear the rest of the tool has held up well with heavy use. Its always nice to hear.
Keep safe and well.
*The 3 speed is good **MyBest.Tools** trying to keep to a low speed for a long time with just the trigger is hard.The only negative is I keep bumping the on/off switch when changing blades, not dangerous but annoying.*
*We are replacing the subfloor in our home **MyBest.Tools** and this tool has proved to be invaluable. So many different uses. Cutting away boards in tight places, cutting water pipes to name a few. We love Dewalt tools in general, but have really enjoyed the flexibility and durability of this multitool.*
Loved your analysis, subbed immediately
Thanks very much.
HI, do you know if its possible to buy a replacement offset bearing for this I have looked on many websites and cant find it.
CAV # on the plastic parts is likely cavity number for the die they're using. They mold a bunch of these parts in the same tool, so knowing which cavity of the tool a part came from is very helpful for quality control.
Hi Mike, thanks for the info... makes sense for when a part is starting to look a little out of spec, they can identify the die and either repair or replace it.
If I am incorrect please explain but thinking about soldered connections vs a screw terminal on a vibrating tool like this I definitely think solder would be better than a screw. With intense vibrations screws will shake themselves loose quite easily unless they are wired in place. I definitely think a crimped connection would be best though.
I think your guess is as good as mine, but possibly a combination of crimped, soldered and heat shrink joints would be good? Possibly the use of a terminal pin where the wire is crimped in two places, the back being crimped around the insulation and the front crimped and soldered around the wire conductor... then the terminal pin is soldered to wherever it's going... then heat shrink over the lot.
Thoughts around using a terminal pin with two crimps is to provide better strain relief, so that vibration / flex / 'the fatigue point' is transferred to the insulation and not directly on the conductor itself (in the case where the conductor is only soldered with no other support or insulation). This lends itself to a much lower failure rate because of less metal fatigue.
Other than crimped connections, I've also seen soldered connections with epoxy / potting over, which would also work, so long as the epoxy sufficiently covers the insulation and the terminal to which the conductor is soldered, and of course sticks well enough over time (doesn't become brittle and crack).
Or like in another comment you made, at least heat shrink over the entire connection, with sufficient cover over the wires insulation and the terminal to which its soldered (the heat shrink providing mechanical support over the entire connection and removing strain from the wire conductor).
I think screwed connections can also withstand a bit of vibration but only if thread locker is used... but this comes at cost.
But at the end, I guess it comes down to cost vs reward... if the failure rate is acceptable relative the cost saving, then I guess thats the compromise.
What’s the bearing number at 15:43 please.
Hi Mick, off hand right now, I can't remember exactly what the bearing number is however I recall somebody else asking in a comment or somebody else providing the part number for that bearing... it was an odd one but wasn't expensive to replace if I remember correctly. It was a comment or series of back and forth replies on this video th-cam.com/video/TYcH3zOqSSE/w-d-xo.html
I think it was a chat with Elgin Octave where he provided a link to an exploded diagram parts view with pricing, etc.
Hope this helps.
@@GrantBurton many thanks for your reply I will have a look.
I know it now if anyone needs to get one
Hi Mick, please let us know 👍
When I push down the handle to change the blade it will not open enough. I could use a pair of pump pliers to squeeze it enough to open it but now that doesn't work. Do you have any idea of what part I would need or how to address it?
Hi Jamie, it's difficult to diagnose without seeing the tool. The first thing that jumps to mind is the silver Clamp Lever which could be worn (or bending and not allowing the flange to retract enough) The clamp lever is what pulls back on the lower flange and compresses the spring. Part number is N254619 on my tool.
There are two pivot points (pins) on either side of of the lower flange. The Clamp Lever pushes down on these two pins resulting in the spring being compressed. I'm thinking that the plastic that pushes on these two pins is worn out and not allowing the flange to be compressed enough. Just a guess though.
To check, you'll have to remove the Clamp Lever and inspect the area where the two pins interface with the lever.
Let us know how it goes?
@@GrantBurton ok thank you very much. As soon as I get a chance I'll look into that. 👍
Hey,
Do you know exactly what type of grease/lubricant that is inside the gearbox at around 16:00? I would think it would have to be good considering the speed/heat of the oscillations.
Thanks.
Hi, I'm not exactly sure what grease it is but I would loosely guess its a general purpose Lithium grease? (although I'm no expert on grease so maybe I'm wrong) (Update on grease? in this video th-cam.com/video/TYcH3zOqSSE/w-d-xo.html )
How did u separate the motor from the part that oscillates
Hi do you know where the “c”shape rubber locates on the tool please? i’ve stripped it down but i am left wondering where it goes, thanks for the great vid
HI G R, could you send a picture of the rubber? grantburtonbuilds@gmail.com I don't recall and don't see having referred to it i the video and can't recall exactly what it looks like.
You did not show how you got the Motor separated from the head, can you please explain to me how you did it because I cannot get my own off.......
I have loosened the two screws and it's still not separating.
Need help please.
And I cannot seem to find any other videos of DeWalt's oscillating tool tear down!
Hi Shawn, once both screws are loose, the motor should pull out of the gearbox fairly easily. There is a rubber O-ring which seals the casing insert on the motor side to the gearbox housing... maybe this is just catching up a bit, or maybe your parts are better machined and fitting a bit more snug than mine. I’ve made an update video with a clip showing the removal of the motor from the gearbox here th-cam.com/video/TYcH3zOqSSE/w-d-xo.html Feel free to check it out... hope it helps.
Did you get it back together?
Haha... yeah... I did get it back together and still working well.
FYI The paint on the screws is a way for the tool assemblers to mark that the screws have been tightened.
Cool... thanks for the info, that makes sense.
thank you
You're welcome
Does anyone know how to remove the inner part of the bearing between the gearbox and the motor? Mine blew up and I’m trying to replace it
Thank you Grant,
The slippage must be occuring at the press fit conection of the Arbour shaft to the gearbox fork.
I can view the Arbour shaft rotation at the back of the gearbox when rotating the head of the Arbour.
I expect this is not a solid connection to protect the tool from destroying itself if the blade becomes bound up in a workpiece, e.g. sawtoothing hardwood floorboards for a room extension (there's easier ways if the clients budget demands it but otherwise I do it the hard way).
The press connection is still quite tight and takes a reasonable amount of pressure to slip the joint, a such this only becomes an inconvenience under heavy work. I suspect it came about from one of the young guys forcing blunt blades to finish a job.
I don't blame them for that, it's my job to supply consumables.
I have ordered a replacement gearbox for about 60% of the cost of a new, skin only dcs354. I opted to repair my 355 as I figured the 354 may just be a cheaply made version for the bigbox DIY market.
I'll provide an update following the replacement gearbox and some in-service use.
Regards.
Rob
Robert Hammond Awesome... thanks for your update. It’s really nice to receive feedback which may be able to help future viewers that may experience similar problems. Thanks very much.
Good review. Now I know how to service it :)
I’m glad I was able to be of assistance.
Is the bearing that oscillates between the fork one with a spherical outer diameter? Or is it a standard cylindrical radial bearing?
Hi Emilie, its a standard bearing... The centre shaft that the bearing fits over is slightly offset from centre which causes the back and forth movement when rotating (very similar to a crankshaft in an engine).
mine stops working in the middle of or the trigger doesn’t work all the time I have to push the trigger several times to make it work. I noticed dirt inside the trigger and cleaned superficially with alcohol and it worked but did it again. what are your thoughts??
Hi juancha79, initial thoughts are that dirt / dust / debris have made its way into the switch assembly and into the potentiometer / variable resistor that interfaces with the speed controller to control speed / on / off (I say potentiometer buy it could very well be another encoder of sorts). The dirt has likely been rubbing on the pads of the potentiometer as the switch is being used and caused wear (or so much dirt that the pads aren't even in contact anymore). If the wear is not too bad, a good clean out with some electrical contact cleaner spray might do the trick. If the pads are completely worn through then the it's probably too late.
Keep us posted with your repair.
@@GrantBurton I will clean it inside. thank you so much.
Do a teardown video about the lows craftsman cordless nail gun.
Unfortunately at the moment I can’t justify buying the nail gun just to tear it down because I don’t really have a need for one, but I would love to do a teardown. Hopefully in the future if I ever receive money from these videos, I’ll be able to use that money to purchase and review tools on request. All of the tools that I have reviewed and torn down in previous videos I’ve personally paid for and needed.
So there is lots of metal to support the spring, we see this in the housing, and it looked like an H not an N to me where you questioned the motor. Thanks for the break down. In the market for one now. I have 2 others, one is Makita cordless and it's bulky and heavy, the other is rocker and it's corded. I switched out my cordless tools from Makita to Dewalt. Does anyone buy after market batteries for these tools and how do they hold up?
Hi Stephen, you are correct, there is a lot of metal support structure within the yellow plastic point of the clamshell and after opening it up again, the weak point is definitely going to be the two plastic ears on the silver release lever (not to say that its weak... its probably fairly strong and reinforced with 50% glass fibre but that's likely the weakest point). Here is a second teardown with another closer look at the section we were discussing. th-cam.com/video/CZEkC3bHx0U/w-d-xo.html
In addition, I've had no experience with aftermarket / pirate batteries for these tools but the channel AVE explored the difference between the Dewalt aftermarket and original batteries. I left a link in this video. th-cam.com/video/CZEkC3bHx0U/w-d-xo.html
On my multi tool the very center screw , when tight will make the tool start and stop. I had to remove the screw completely and now the tool will stay on. Will I have problems with this later on, do you think one of the wires are routed wrong.
Mine is doing this I just took it to bits and seen your comment gahaha
Hi James, I doubt if one of the wires are routed incorrectly because they are pretty short and pretty much have to follow a direct path from the speed controller to the motor. This is a wild guess but if you open it up and noting appears to be wrong, then maybe there is problem with the switch or board internally and when compressed by the case / tight middle screw, it causes a poor connection due to a dry joint or cracked PCB track? Like I said... just a wild guess. It could also be a dry joint at the motor connection or within the wires leading to the motor and again, when clamped into the shell, maybe the break in the wire is being pulled apart? If under warranty, send it back or if out of warranty, maybe do like Daniel and open it up and see if there is anything that looks suspect.
Hi Daniel, were you able to identify the problem?
Anyone have the part number for that offset bearing?
Hi PunchyMuffin, a while back somebody did post a part number. It was either in this video or one of the other two videos on my channel that relate to this tool... I looked through all the comments and can't seem to find it now... strange, because I know it was there as it's been referred to before.
@@GrantBurton Hello, thank you for letting me know. You are the best.
Sir, thank you for your video I appreciate it!
I have a question, I have a had two DeWalt oscillating tool ( cordless ) each one for less than one year....... The same problem occurred with each one of them, the ball bearing that's on the motor that causes the tool to vibrate somehow on both of them it breaks, and in both cases it happened while in use.
So now I have two tools oscillating tool that doesn't work, love DeWalt tools but I will never buy them again pertaining to oscillating tools.
Could you recommend a better more efficient oscillating tool, I'm attached to dewalt tools but no more oscillating tools from them......
I have and had many DeWalt tools, I expected better from them!
Do you have any suggestions?
Hi Shawn, are you referring to the ball bearing that runs between the fork at the input side of the gearbox? If it's that bearing, maybe a repair option would be to order a replacement bearing from a local / online bearing shop and press it on? My bearing measures at 7x21x6mm (7mm Internal diameter, 21mm external diameter and 6mm thick) and what looks like a standard deep groove ball bearing.
I cant really recommend any other oscillating tools because I don't have experience with any others so any recommendation I did try to make would only be based on user reviews, which means it wouldn't be a recommendation based on personal hard evidence / experience. Sorry I couldn't be of assistance in this regard.
I just tore mine done and the bearing came apart, also. I've used it for 3 years though. I may try to find a bearing with the measurements you provided, Grant. Thanks
I just spent quite some time trying to find the bearing, with no luck. I did find it listed on some Chinese sites where you need to buy a very large quantity. Best I can tell, it's bearing 607X2T or 77j.
owemzome!
well i quess the little rubber that goes awol when you disassemble the trigger is part of the “obvious” 🙄
2 other Version
DSC 354
DSC356
Hi Joni, yes you are correct. The DCS 355 is from their Atomic Series of tools and the DCS356 is the a newer version with 3 Speed Control selector that works together with the variable speed trigger.
DCS354 Oscillations/min: 0 - 18 000 OPM
DCS355 Oscillations/min: 0 - 20 000 OPM
DCS356 Oscillations/min: 0 - 13 000 / 0 - 17 000 / 0 - 20 000 OPM
I also believe that the 356 runs a little more quiet and has slightly reduced vibration (from what others have said) .
Just got one of these for repair - switch found to be faulty, full of dust. The cost of a new switch is £88.00 !!! ( the switch & motor come as one assembly - NICE one DEWALT %**@@*% )
Planned obsolescence possibly? I agree that this is a weak point on many of their (and other brands) of tools. Under normal circumstances, I'd just disassemble the switch, clean / repair it, and use the tool again (hack the switch if I have to) however we can't be doing a hack job when repairing a clients tools... need to be as professional as possible.
I also find it completely unnecessary that they make us buy the complete switch and motor assembly... damn money making scheme IMO. The hall sensor wires are on a block style connector so super easy to unplug and the three motor wires can easily be unsoldered (Now if they had just used a spaded and screwed connector arrangement, that would have made everybody life much easier).
@@GrantBurton Imanaged to fix it :D the fault was actually a broken Brown wire , within milimetres from where it is soldered to the battery connector , & IN the heatshrink - very hard to detect as the wire DEWALT use is very stiff, and the reson it broke due to the vibration of the machine. I am still angry with DEWALT for having a spare part sub-assembly the is 90% of the cost of a new multi-tool, and for using stiff wires & solder joints in a high vibration use.
@@andy530i I wonder if it would have been better if the wires were crimped to a terminal lug and then that terminal lug was spot welded or fastened (using a machine screw) onto the battery terminal plate?
How do i seperate the motor from the gear box or the head piece. Mine will not seperate. Says in video clamshell holds together
Hi Zackary, Hope this helps... check out the update video showing the motor separation here th-cam.com/video/TYcH3zOqSSE/w-d-xo.html
I hate how there ae exactly ZERO tool companies willing to spend the extra pennies per weak point to correct things that are obvious.
I suppose it is a weak point but may be stronger than we think... I'm no materials engineer but it is reinforced with 50% glass fibre which makes it pretty stiff and strong. I just would have personally liked to see a little more material around the levers hinge point (or a completely metal lever).
Good to see the clip,
When I press the trigger, it clicks/kicks but no response to motor. Do you think it's a motor or starter part? Any advice will help. I have video for my tool not working th-cam.com/video/42MIJWIuZPo/w-d-xo.html
Hi Gil, watched your video... that's a pretty loud click / knock. I'm guessing its out of warranty so as a start, I would say open up the unit and split the gearbox from the motor. That click sounds like a solid mechanical click or knock. Check that the motor is spinning freely. Maybe also pull the trigger and notice if the motor runs or not. The motor should freely run when detached from the gearbox. Guessing that a back or front motor bearing may be collapsed or housing cracked and when power is applied, the rotor pulls up rapidly against the stator and then jams creating that knocking sound -OR- Something on the gearbox side is catching up... Maybe the fork or 'hopefully not' something within the gearbox. Kind of difficult to say without physically inspecting the unit. Let us know what you find?
So I watch this to see how to disassemble mine and you skip through it and the next thing I know it’s in pieces. Wtf?
Hi Silent Hill, I made another teardown video, showing how the clamshell is opened, etc. Once the clamshell is open, all of the internals basically just lift out of the clamshell... nothing to technical. Video is here if you are interested. th-cam.com/video/CZEkC3bHx0U/w-d-xo.html
Guy who made this video is soooo selfish y didn't u just.put that part , where u take apart the gear box from.motor ,lol or did u call ur friend to do it for u bro???
Thanks for not showing the breakdown. Very unhelpful!
Hi Michael, it's a pleasure.
bad model, poor ergonomics, dangerous controls, bad sawing.