Thanks Dale, its a slow work in progress. Hopefully you are managing to recover from the fire a while back... such a shame and heart breaking to watch it all unfolding.
Hi Grant. Wonder if you can help. Using my multitool is very difficult to swap fittings - with the clamp arm fully depressed, there isn't really enough clearance to easily remove/fit different tools. It isn't that the spring is too strong but when the arm is fully pressed there is barely enough room between the tothed plate and the ring. I've tried to dissasemble this myself, but can't figure out what to do.Great videos by the way!
Did you find a fix to this issue ? Have you replaced the arm ? The arm looks like metal but its acually a plastic composition so im wondering if the arm has flattened a bit so its not making full leverage when fully compressed ? EDIT : Try going ham with WD40 all over the relevant springs (locks springs , arms springs etc ) as it might be a case of spring issues . A new arm is cheaper where i am tho so if WD diesnt work that might be the best option to try next
Hi Adam, if I remember correctly, it was a bit tricky to get it back in, but I have taken it apart twice and managed to get it back together both times. It was such a long time ago, I cant remember exactly how I did it though. Did you manage to come right yet?
On the previous video I was sort of shocked there was not heat shrink tubing on the battery connector. They could even put a bit of rubber over the connection and heat shrink it to isolate it further but that does cost money.
Agreed, there should at least be heat shrink covering the entire connection, form the wire insulation to the end of the terminal connection point. This will also provide mechanical support for the conductor / connection reducing the chance of metal fatigue and joint failure (because the fatigue point is moved away from the wire conductor and spread across the terminal and insulation)... although that's just my 'diagnonsense' 😂😂 and I may be wrong.
Grant! i need your help. i'm trying to remove the bearing between the motor and gearbox that you show in both videos. i removed the clip ring holding the inner part of the bearing in place but it wont come out, even prying with pliers. the original bearing broke into pieces in the housing of the grease (between the motor and gearbox) but the inner ring is stuck.
Hi ozzy, you may have to make a dedicated puller to pull the inner race of the bearing off the shaft (if there is enough of an edge to grip on) or use something like a Dremel and a small cut-off disc to cut across the inner race (I've got an example of how to do this in another video - not specifically of this tool but another bearing repair th-cam.com/video/V-_xim0iPP4/w-d-xo.html around 12:30)... just have to be careful not to cut the motors shaft. Hope this helps... let us know how it turns out?
@Grant Burton this is exactly what I was thinking of doing, im going to give it a try and send an update soon. Your insight has helped me greatly, thank you so much.
Hello Grant........... FYI, I posted over a year ago about my replacing the eccentric/oscillating bearing in my Dewalt DWE315, which restored the unit to full operation. Just today however, the same problem occurred, the motor runs, but the blade just sits, without making any reciprocating motion! I took the unit apart, and found the same bearing had failed again, just like before. When this failed the first time, I guessed I just had an unlucky bearing............ But now I wonder if there is a design flaw! So this time I am going to order 3 replacement eccentric bearings. Chuck
Hi Elgin, awesome to hear from you again... its been a while. Can you please post the part number and store where you are buying the replacement bearings? Depends on how the bearing is failing, if it's failing the same way each time, but if I were to hazard a guess, it's likely a design floor. Lots of high frequency vibration through the bearing cage and outer race.
Hi sigmiami, are you referring to the 'washer' / 'toothed flange' that has the small teeth around it that grips the blade? I had a quick look at mine and I think it's an interference fit (shrink fit) between the shaft and the 'washer'. If it is, one would have to heat the 'washer' in order to remove it from the shaft. Not sure if the heat transfer through the shaft and into the gearbox would affect / damage anything (I wouldn't want to try with the shaft still in place). Reverse process would be followed to fit the new 'washer'... heat the washer and it should slip over the shaft fairly easily, when it cools, the interference fit should be tight again. (I doubt it, but can't be 100% certain, that the shaft would also need to be cooled at the same time... as in getting the parts to fit together, the shaft would need to be cooled and the washer would need to be heated to get enough clearance for a slip fit... but I don't think this is the case). It may also be a standard interference press fit (where no heating or cooling is required), in which case, pulling the 'washer' off (or pressing it off) and pressing the new one on with a hydraulic press or arbor press. Either way I'm not 100% sure but hopefully this gives you some idea of how it may be fitted (So I guess... no, unfortunately I don't have a video about replacing the washer).
Thanks fir the video, but you still missing the basic tear down of the tool, for example how did you separate the plastic cover...if you have it please upload it Thanks again 👍
Hi Boubaker, I did make a follow up video (kind of update) in which I show how to open the cover... here it is th-cam.com/video/CZEkC3bHx0U/w-d-xo.html Hope this helps.
Great video thanks you for making a second, I’ve got the topic for the third... The off center bearing blew, I took the whole thing appart ( your video gave me a boost of confidence, thank you). The inside bearing was stuck on the shaft... tried many things, by fear of breaking something I took appart the motor. But I think the bottle neck ends here. It doesn’t seem possible to replace either the gearbox bearing or the off center bearing... unless I’ve got something wrong. But the top of the shaft were the circlip sits is much larger than the shaft entering the motor...? In other models the diagram show a break down of the shaft assembly but not on the 355... the parts appear to be the same but the shaft is smaller on the 355 making me believe there is a piece pressed in ? I have pictures to make sense of it all. But still can’t replace the bearing... which is the broken part!
Hi Velella, without having taken mine apart down to bare bones... at a guess, I’m almost certain there is a ‘off centre type arbor’ that has been pressed into the top of the motors shaft. So the bottom of this ‘arbor’ has a hole in which the motors shaft is press into (this will be a really tight fit, probably not easily removable without damaging something). The top of the ‘arbor’ will have an off centre shaft, onto which the bearing is pressed and retained by that retaining circlip. This would explain why the bearings shaft is larger than the motors shaft. Maybe with some careful heating on top of the bearing and a small puller, the bearing can be removed but not having done it before and not having access to my tools at the moment, I can’t have a quick look and say for certain. Are the pictures you have of your own tool or generic diagram pics from the internet?
@@GrantBurton I removed this exploded bearing inner race by removing the circlip and very carefully grinding away at it with a 1mm cutting disc on opposite sides then shattered it with a pair of pliers.
I have the brushless version and makes rubbing noise i suspect one or more of the magnets in the brushless motor had come loose because the tool is subjected to a lot of vibration.
Hi em forty, maybe it's time to open yours up and have a look... hopefully it's not the magnets bur rather something else simple that can be easily repaired. Let us know if you do open it and what you find.
Hi grant, I purchased a replacement gearbox and attempted to re-install though had trouble getting the motor back on to the gearbox housing and ending up damaging the armature. I'll keep the replacement gearbox for spares and put that down to experience. It certainly wasn't going back on the new gearbox the same as it came off the old one. I've scrapped the rest of the tool and purchased the dsc356. The subtle changes from the 354- improved variable speed control and 3 speed settings plus the light is larger- are useful but not must haves if the 354 is still working or repairable. Regards. Rob hammond Regards. Rob
Very informative video. Appreciate the fact that it is in depth and centres around specific technical issues based on user interaction. The studio setup is also too class!
Hi Warren, tanks for the support. Studio / garage is a work in progress... hopefully its forward progress... haha. How are your Makita cordless tools treating you?
Hi Cashis, I do have a couple other DeWalt power tools I could teardown (14 in total that I’ve collected over the years, of which I’ve already done a few teardowns)… unfortunately at the moment I can’t afford to purchase anything new (the pandemic hasn’t been kind) but I could definitely tear the remaining tools down. Have also got two Makita products which we could also teardown… th-cam.com/video/k2rWk1rWxyE/w-d-xo.html here is one of them. The other is a Jigsaw. Thanks for the comment.
Hello Grant I am very interested in oscillating tool and plan to use on an industrial scale in my sugarcane peeling business . I was wandering how can i upgrade the motor to withstand long term running hours ? What kind of motor to choose ? Appreciate your recommendations Thanks
Hi Islam Kamis, I don't think this tool (or others like this made by brands like Bosch, Makita or Milwaukee) are a good choice for industrial type of work... they are good for commercial jobsite work but they aren't designed to be running all day, every day in an industrial type of setup... for that, i think something custom made might suit you better... like using a stand along induction motor with belt drive all bolted to a solid base. It's kind of difficult to say what would work best because it would be a tool that needs to be designed to do a specific operation... and without seeing what the type of operation, it's difficult to make assumptions or recommendations.
Spot on as always Grant! Thanks for another informative video. You really make it easy to understand for those of us who aren't so technically minded! Cheers👏🏻
Hi Grant, The new version is working great so far in my renovation business. My first impression was that the blade sits correctly in the holding clamp, in the previous version, the holding teeth didn't seem to align accurately with the blades. In the new version the light is re-positioned for better illumination of the workpiece. This is a noticeable improvement. The 3 speed maximum control is a feature I haven't required as yet, though I do find that the variable control is easier to maintain a slower speed when care is required at startup etc. Overall I'm very happy with the performance of the updated version of the DeWalt renovator. Rob
![TEARDOWN - DeWALT DCS355 20v XR (DCS354 Atomic?) Oscillating Multi Tool - BURTON BUILDS [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/yYW2r9-bkAQ/mqdefault.jpg)
![TEARDOWN - DeWALT DCS355 20v XR (DCS354 Atomic?) Oscillating Multi Tool - BURTON BUILDS [4K]](/img/tr.png)
![TEARDOWN Dewalt XR DCD796 20v MAX Brushless Drill - Burton Builds S03E04 [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/i_dQjMNCUqY/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video Grant! Very thorough and detailed. The workshop is looking fantastic in the background.
Thanks Dale, its a slow work in progress. Hopefully you are managing to recover from the fire a while back... such a shame and heart breaking to watch it all unfolding.
Hi Grant. Wonder if you can help. Using my multitool is very difficult to swap fittings - with the clamp arm fully depressed, there isn't really enough clearance to easily remove/fit different tools. It isn't that the spring is too strong but when the arm is fully pressed there is barely enough room between the tothed plate and the ring. I've tried to dissasemble this myself, but can't figure out what to do.Great videos by the way!
Did you find a fix to this issue ? Have you replaced the arm ? The arm looks like metal but its acually a plastic composition so im wondering if the arm has flattened a bit so its not making full leverage when fully compressed ? EDIT : Try going ham with WD40 all over the relevant springs (locks springs , arms springs etc ) as it might be a case of spring issues . A new arm is cheaper where i am tho so if WD diesnt work that might be the best option to try next
Hi Grant . How do you replace the small spring in the quick release lever. I can’t seem to keep it in place . Thanks Adam
Hi Adam, if I remember correctly, it was a bit tricky to get it back in, but I have taken it apart twice and managed to get it back together both times. It was such a long time ago, I cant remember exactly how I did it though. Did you manage to come right yet?
On the previous video I was sort of shocked there was not heat shrink tubing on the battery connector. They could even put a bit of rubber over the connection and heat shrink it to isolate it further but that does cost money.
Agreed, there should at least be heat shrink covering the entire connection, form the wire insulation to the end of the terminal connection point. This will also provide mechanical support for the conductor / connection reducing the chance of metal fatigue and joint failure (because the fatigue point is moved away from the wire conductor and spread across the terminal and insulation)... although that's just my 'diagnonsense' 😂😂 and I may be wrong.
Grant! i need your help. i'm trying to remove the bearing between the motor and gearbox that you show in both videos. i removed the clip ring holding the inner part of the bearing in place but it wont come out, even prying with pliers. the original bearing broke into pieces in the housing of the grease (between the motor and gearbox) but the inner ring is stuck.
Hi ozzy, you may have to make a dedicated puller to pull the inner race of the bearing off the shaft (if there is enough of an edge to grip on) or use something like a Dremel and a small cut-off disc to cut across the inner race (I've got an example of how to do this in another video - not specifically of this tool but another bearing repair th-cam.com/video/V-_xim0iPP4/w-d-xo.html around 12:30)... just have to be careful not to cut the motors shaft.
Hope this helps... let us know how it turns out?
@Grant Burton this is exactly what I was thinking of doing, im going to give it a try and send an update soon. Your insight has helped me greatly, thank you so much.
Hello Grant........... FYI, I posted over a year ago about my replacing the eccentric/oscillating bearing in my Dewalt DWE315, which restored the unit to full operation. Just today however, the same problem occurred, the motor runs, but the blade just sits, without making any reciprocating motion! I took the unit apart, and found the same bearing had failed again, just like before. When this failed the first time, I guessed I just had an unlucky bearing............ But now I wonder if there is a design flaw! So this time I am going to order 3 replacement eccentric bearings. Chuck
Hi Elgin, awesome to hear from you again... its been a while. Can you please post the part number and store where you are buying the replacement bearings? Depends on how the bearing is failing, if it's failing the same way each time, but if I were to hazard a guess, it's likely a design floor. Lots of high frequency vibration through the bearing cage and outer race.
any videos on replacing the washer that holds the blades?? I purchased a really washer as the original lost a tooth.
Hi sigmiami, are you referring to the 'washer' / 'toothed flange' that has the small teeth around it that grips the blade? I had a quick look at mine and I think it's an interference fit (shrink fit) between the shaft and the 'washer'. If it is, one would have to heat the 'washer' in order to remove it from the shaft. Not sure if the heat transfer through the shaft and into the gearbox would affect / damage anything (I wouldn't want to try with the shaft still in place). Reverse process would be followed to fit the new 'washer'... heat the washer and it should slip over the shaft fairly easily, when it cools, the interference fit should be tight again. (I doubt it, but can't be 100% certain, that the shaft would also need to be cooled at the same time... as in getting the parts to fit together, the shaft would need to be cooled and the washer would need to be heated to get enough clearance for a slip fit... but I don't think this is the case).
It may also be a standard interference press fit (where no heating or cooling is required), in which case, pulling the 'washer' off (or pressing it off) and pressing the new one on with a hydraulic press or arbor press.
Either way I'm not 100% sure but hopefully this gives you some idea of how it may be fitted (So I guess... no, unfortunately I don't have a video about replacing the washer).
@@GrantBurton yes, I got the replacement but can't seem to see how to replace it
@@GrantBurton yes that one
Thanks fir the video, but you still missing the basic tear down of the tool, for example how did you separate the plastic cover...if you have it please upload it Thanks again 👍
Hi Boubaker, I did make a follow up video (kind of update) in which I show how to open the cover... here it is th-cam.com/video/CZEkC3bHx0U/w-d-xo.html
Hope this helps.
Great video thanks you for making a second, I’ve got the topic for the third...
The off center bearing blew, I took the whole thing appart ( your video gave me a boost of confidence, thank you). The inside bearing was stuck on the shaft... tried many things, by fear of breaking something I took appart the motor. But I think the bottle neck ends here. It doesn’t seem possible to replace either the gearbox bearing or the off center bearing... unless I’ve got something wrong. But the top of the shaft were the circlip sits is much larger than the shaft entering the motor...? In other models the diagram show a break down of the shaft assembly but not on the 355... the parts appear to be the same but the shaft is smaller on the 355 making me believe there is a piece pressed in ? I have pictures to make sense of it all. But still can’t replace the bearing... which is the broken part!
Hi Velella, without having taken mine apart down to bare bones... at a guess, I’m almost certain there is a ‘off centre type arbor’ that has been pressed into the top of the motors shaft. So the bottom of this ‘arbor’ has a hole in which the motors shaft is press into (this will be a really tight fit, probably not easily removable without damaging something). The top of the ‘arbor’ will have an off centre shaft, onto which the bearing is pressed and retained by that retaining circlip. This would explain why the bearings shaft is larger than the motors shaft. Maybe with some careful heating on top of the bearing and a small puller, the bearing can be removed but not having done it before and not having access to my tools at the moment, I can’t have a quick look and say for certain. Are the pictures you have of your own tool or generic diagram pics from the internet?
@@GrantBurton I removed this exploded bearing inner race by removing the circlip and very carefully grinding away at it with a 1mm cutting disc on opposite sides then shattered it with a pair of pliers.
I have the brushless version and makes rubbing noise i suspect one or more of the magnets in the brushless motor had come loose because the tool is subjected to a lot of vibration.
Hi em forty, maybe it's time to open yours up and have a look... hopefully it's not the magnets bur rather something else simple that can be easily repaired.
Let us know if you do open it and what you find.
Hi grant,
I purchased a replacement gearbox and attempted to re-install though had trouble getting the motor back on to the gearbox housing and ending up damaging the armature.
I'll keep the replacement gearbox for spares and put that down to experience. It certainly wasn't going back on the new gearbox the same as it came off the old one.
I've scrapped the rest of the tool and purchased the dsc356. The subtle changes from the 354- improved variable speed control and 3 speed settings plus the light is larger- are useful but not must haves if the 354 is still working or repairable.
Regards.
Rob hammond
Regards.
Rob
Hi Robert, how is the DCS356 working for you? I think you mentioned about 1 month ago you purchased one?
Very informative video. Appreciate the fact that it is in depth and centres around specific technical issues based on user interaction. The studio setup is also too class!
Hi Warren, tanks for the support. Studio / garage is a work in progress... hopefully its forward progress... haha. How are your Makita cordless tools treating you?
Had one like that for 4 months, won't cut only sometimes????
Hi Rocky, does the motor run but not cut or does it not run at all?
Can you continue this like other dewalt power models, several of them.
Hi Cashis, I do have a couple other DeWalt power tools I could teardown (14 in total that I’ve collected over the years, of which I’ve already done a few teardowns)… unfortunately at the moment I can’t afford to purchase anything new (the pandemic hasn’t been kind) but I could definitely tear the remaining tools down.
Have also got two Makita products which we could also teardown… th-cam.com/video/k2rWk1rWxyE/w-d-xo.html here is one of them. The other is a Jigsaw.
Thanks for the comment.
Hello Grant
I am very interested in oscillating tool and plan to use on an industrial scale in my sugarcane peeling business . I was wandering how can i upgrade the motor to withstand long term running hours ? What kind of motor to choose ?
Appreciate your recommendations
Thanks
Hi Islam Kamis, I don't think this tool (or others like this made by brands like Bosch, Makita or Milwaukee) are a good choice for industrial type of work... they are good for commercial jobsite work but they aren't designed to be running all day, every day in an industrial type of setup... for that, i think something custom made might suit you better... like using a stand along induction motor with belt drive all bolted to a solid base. It's kind of difficult to say what would work best because it would be a tool that needs to be designed to do a specific operation... and without seeing what the type of operation, it's difficult to make assumptions or recommendations.
Spot on as always Grant! Thanks for another informative video. You really make it easy to understand for those of us who aren't so technically minded! Cheers👏🏻
Seth Ponnusamy thanks for the kind words. Cheers dude.
You are a savior and a Saint thank you!
It’s a pleasure… happy the video was able to help you.
Hi Grant,
The new version is working great so far in my renovation business.
My first impression was that the blade sits correctly in the holding clamp, in the previous version, the holding teeth didn't seem to align accurately with the blades.
In the new version the light is re-positioned for better illumination of the workpiece. This is a noticeable improvement.
The 3 speed maximum control is a feature I haven't required as yet, though I do find that the variable control is easier to maintain a slower speed when care is required at startup etc.
Overall I'm very happy with the performance of the updated version of the DeWalt renovator.
Rob
Thats wonderful news. I haven't been using mine much lately, but when the time comes, I'm sure I'll be glad I have the tool on hand.
I guess it's safe to assume you're an AvE fan... 😉
One might say I've watched the odd AvE video or two... 😂😂 haha. What a Legend.
Hi Grant, link this video in the original video in the comments.
Hi Amish, thanks for the reminder, I've added teardown and update video links to all the related review videos and vice versa.
Grant Burton my recommendation is a pin comment. Most people don’t read below the fold .
Thanks for the advice.
Mau dong mesinnya
Why are you reading to us,, i can do that myself. Bought 2 dewalt products, both horrendous
HI Christopher, which 2 Dewalt products were you not happy with? Did you end up replacing them with another brand?