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FYI I've used the one with a red cone at the .25 second mark and it works great. I just got out a tube of caulk a few days ago that has been sitting in the basement for over a year and the caulk came right out like new.
My dad and I changed the roof on their house from shingles to metal. There's a roll of a clay-like or putty-like material that you roll along the seam of each new piece of metal that you add, and overlap. It's supposed to never dry out. I take a short chunk of that stuff, about the size of a marble, ball it up. Then push it over the end so some goes inside to help seal, and some goes on the outside to help hold it on the tip. Has worked years for me. But, I understand most people won't have a roll of that stuff laying around.
Very good advice, and here's another one. I've used sealants like this for over 40 years and I know of no-one who knows how to clean it off your hands or places where you don't want it. While it is still uncured simply use an alcohol based hand sanitizer, the more alcohol in the sanitizer the better it works. It dissolves the sealant and you can simply wipe it off.
Any advice on existing overapplied? I put some in my shower and ran my finger down the crease but it went out a little further than i wanted. Do you just need a scraper at that point?
WD-40 for sealant, oil, fat paint, glue and so on and wash your hands afterwards of course. Alcohol based products can dry out the skin which can cause cracks and infections. Just another sugestion because everyone is different. 😉
This is right on the basics - an airtight seal is what you usually need, and almost all materials are porous to some extent. You need to at least use a sealing material that is as low-porosity as possible. Common polypropylene tape (packing tape) is decent in this regard. PET would be more ideal, but it's less commonly used. The perfect material would be mylar (any food packaging with that silvery layer inside). Mylar as both PET layers and a super thin aluminium layer - making it as close to airproof as a thin material can be. It's a very useful material to have around, and so easy to scavenge from chip bags. But here is an important thing the video fails to mention: *The curing mechanism of different caulks is not the same!* Therefore different types will need very different considerations. Here is a breakdown of curing methods used in caulks, in rough order of how common they are: *Water based, evaporation:* Common cheap latex caulk. Just keep it from drying and you will be fine. Easy to keep a long time. *Moisture-curing*: This is basically the opposite. Moisture (including air moisture) makes it harden. Applies to many silicones (often those with little odor) and more advanced siloxane caulks (the stuff that behaves like silicone but is paintable). Also most polyurethane based ones. This is difficult to keep good. I use sealing + putting the whole thing in a sealed bag with a dessicant (like those silica gel bead bagsyou see in shoes and such - always keep those. They can be regenerated and used indefinitely :) Some degree of curing is almost impossible to avoid - but with these methods you can limit it so much that unblocking the before use is pretty easy. *Oxygen-curing*: This is the only group that actually reacts to the air itself. Many simpler oil-based caulks (often construction caulks) use this, as well as some silicones. *Solvent-based evaporation*: Fairly self-explanatory. Like water-based just with a different solvent, and keeping it from drying out is the goal. Often has a solvent type smell. Used in some rubber type outdoor or specialty caulks. *Two-component*: Like an epoxy, 2 components need to mix to cure. These are easy to spot because they have 2 nozzles and a special mixing tip. They are never used as sealing caulks in the normal sense, but they come in caulk-like tube formats. It's basically epoxy on a tube for heavy duty fixing of reeinforcements or post to concrete ect. They should be sealed reasonably to prevent premature degradation (they can work poorly when too old), but they won't cure until they mix. *UV-curing*: Rare for caulks. A little more common in specialty epoxy-glues and in a few very high-end varnishes. As you see from this - putting your caulk-tip in water could either be a very good idea, or completely ruin your whole tube in a very short time. You should try to identify the curing method first of all. All of these same basics apply to anything else that cures also - like all glues, all paints ect. and is very useful to be aware of. For example, oil-based paints don't cure by drying like most people think. It's oxygen-curing (the solvent is just there to keep it flowing easily). That's why oil-based paints easily generate that gooey layer on top if you aren't diligent about your re-sealing. Your expanding foam is moisture-curing, so put that in a bag with a dessicator ect. ect. Using the appropriate methods you can vastly extend the usable life of all these products.
@@TheStigmayour rambling was more informative than the video. Thanks. In reality there's no method for long term storage is there? I mean , it'll eventually go hard even if it's never opened. I learned that the hard way. I've tried dipping the tip in melted wax, and also latex paint. I think what I need is to buy smaller tubes. Also I need to accept that some is inevitably going to waste.
@@mrq6270 Most compunded chemicals will eventually fail from something at some point because premature curing is not the only thing that will degrade it. It's just the most common and fastest. It's also what primarily kills unopened tubes (more on that later) But it depends what you define as "long-term". I've stored open tubes of moisture reactive silicone caulks for 3+ years with no observable change in consistency, curing or performance. I have some even older oil paints (10L buckets that I only use in small amounts, so it lasts me a long time and is super economical. This is extremely long past what their expected shelf-life is, even if unopened (which they aren't). If you want to really store it for long then you need to do more than just sealing the tips and lids well though. Consider the following: A typical caulking tube's rear-end also has a (very basic press-fit) seal that needs to move as it gets pushed forward. This is much to leaky for long-term storage of anything other than water-based stuff. The tube is also typically made from HDPE, which is far from the worst material, but it absolutely will allow some gas-transfer in and out over a long timeframe. Only metals and glass can truly be considered non-gas-permeable. No matter how well sealed the tip is - these will cause failure in longer term storage, but you can mitigate both fairly easily: Clean out a chip bag (mylar) thoroughly and put the whole tube inside. Add a dessicator pack for moisture-curing stuff. For oxygen-curing stuff you can purge the air with a short burst of any relatively inert or stable gas significantly heavier than air. Propane is a very cheap and option available everywhere that is non-reactive for most compounds. CO2 also fairly stable if you happen to have that. A truly inert gas like argon would be ideal - but who has that in their garage? :) I use propane a lot half-full oil paint tins before re-sealing. There isn't sufficient volume to be any safety risk. The higher-than-air density means you can fill containers as if it were an invisible liquid, making it easy to work with. Then you squeeze out the excess gas in the bag and seal it. An ordinary ikea-style long "bread-bag" clip actually works quite well as long as you use only flat folds. Or, if you want to be fancy you can grab a mini plastic sealer device on aliexpress for 2 dollars and actually hermetically seal it (plastic welding) - just as they did at the factory where the bag came from. Now you have a optimally non-gas-permeable, completely UV proof, controlled atmosphere container - at the cost of some free recycled "trash" and 2-3 minutes work. Just remember to label the damn thing lol :P You can skip athmosphere purging and just use a good clip-seal and still get most of the benefits if you want to keep it as easy as possible. Vacuuum sealing would do the same job as gas purging if you prefer - but this usually requires a bit more of a setup. I haven't done any decades-long studies on what the extremes of possible storage time is for various compounds - but suffice it to say I have never seen a notable change in anything I've sealed like that to date - much less be hardened in the tube. So lots of things can last a very long time if conditions are truly optimized, but the chemistry of each compund will all act a little different over a long timeframe. Hopefully that gave you some useful tips to try. I'm just glad to share with people who actually care about such nitty-gritty details :D
I just recently started using a Sharpie cap to put over the end of the tube. So far it’s worked great. I’m going on 3 months with the current caulking tube and it’s not wasted any product. And it’s FREE!
I fold plastic wrap, lay it over the tip, then tape it. Same principle, but I found squeezing a little caulk out after it’s taped up really eliminates any remaining air.
I use a soft plastic type cap found on Amazon, (caulk cap CCY-2). Insert a little water into the cap, put the cap on. Still using the same cartridge for over one year now.
I have had great success with the Caulk Cap too. The best solution I have found for sure. And cheap too. Not as cheap as electric tape, but I hate electric tape. The adhesive gets all over everything it touches.
I haven't had any real luck with electrical tape for the past decade I've been using it. And yeah it ends up messy. I finally bought some similar caulk caps this week; so adding some water helps? Doesn't it dry anyway?
@@jerther_ I have never added water and haven’t had issues. Pretty sure I have had caulk survive for more than a year with just the Caulk Cap. The caulk does becomes “drier” (less viscous) but not dry. Even then, it would only be the next bit of caulk you squirt out. Beyond that everything is fine. Silicone caulk is probably a no go but I rarely use that and stick with the premium elastomeric latex caulks.
A little blob of hot glue over the opening and you can store the tube as long as you want. Time to use the caulk, just pull off the hardened hot glue and you’re good to go…rinse and repeat….
Its what I do. Works perfectly. I tap it down ( very wet finger, its hot, be careful) around the complete area on the top of the tube. I clean out the nozzles before storing them.
Aluminum foil tape works better than anything I’ve tried, but it sounds like the electricians tape may work even better. The aluminum tape is also useful if the tip is badly plugged. I’ve been able to slit the tip lengthwise, pull out the cured caulk, and then wrap it back together with the aluminum tape. So far it’s worked every time.
I have used this method and it really works very well. The only thing I did is added a high quality duct tape to seal the open end before inserting the open end in a cup of water. Two weeks have passed and when I tried to use the tube, the caulking was still in excellent shape and was able use whatever was left in the tube absolutely without any problems. Thank you for posting this method. I no longer have to throw away tubes of caulking away.
I've been using duck tape for years in this way. But, with a second step: make sure the tube is stored point down when taped with whatever tape you use. That way, even if a tiny amount of air gets past the tape, the little bit of caulk in the very tip is what dries and not the whole tube. Sure, you have to push a bit to get past that rice grain's bit of dried caulk. But, I've had tubes go for several years this way. I learned it from a beautician a contractor I worked for in college did a job for. She used to keep all sorts of supplies in tubes and always stored them open end down this way for that reason. Now, I'll just use electrical tape while doing it instead.
Great foil tape is used by more and more variety of trades , this tape was originally invented as a HEAT TRANSFER TAPE. it was to be used lengthwise on top of heat tracing holding it in contact to the pipe and transferring the lost heat to the adjacent pipe. Back in the 1970's HVAC workers seen it being used in hi heat, and adopted it even thou it's poor tensile strength it's use is prevalent.
For those cartridges that came with a threaded cap i always squeeze a bit of caulk with the cap in place but not tightened, and then i tighten to make a messy but good seal, however over long periods of time it will still dry a bit but not the whole cartridge. For those who haven't the the cap i used plastic tape applied as you shown.
yeah, this works pretty good but not indefinitely the problem, especially with the conically shaped tips, is that as the caulk cures it shrinks a little and by nature will allow air into the system where more will cure and then shrink
Good suggestions. But the bottom line is that air gets in the bottom. An inch and a half plumber's rubber end cap with a hose clamp works perfectly. I have been using it along with your electrical tape for the tip and with both things together... have worked great for me for many years!
Never heard of using electrical tape, so big thanks for saving me a hassle in the future. I usually have to simply throw the half-used tubes away because I know they'll be dried out in a few days, never mind months down the road when I might need to use them again.
Gonna try this. I been using wide painter's tape, but with a bubble at the end. I then fill the bubble with caulk until it ooze out the seams. Works decent.
Although I wrap the tape differently than you describe, I have been using electrical tape for a very long time to seal caulk tubes with great success. Recently, I started inserting a nail (with a head so it doesn't go in all the way) into the tip before before taping. This way, the tip doesn't get clogged with that little bit of caulk which sometimes requires cutting the tip bigger if you can't clear the clog.
Great tip at the end. I’ll start using it. I usually just wrap a piece of plastic around the tip, tape it down and squeeze a blob of whatever is in the tube into the plastic. It comes apart easily and keeps the tube usable.
I actually tried this....to make it last longer, I used TWO long strips at 90 degrees plus a turn or two of tape AROUND over the tube tip near the top...so far...it still holds...about 4 months. THANKS MUCH!!!
Thanks, I'll definitely give it a try. I have some roof sealant to try this week but only need a small amount. I hate to buy a $10 tube and only use it once.
Glad Wrap around the tip a few times then a rubber band around it many times. The tube has to be screwed into the barrel as tight as possible as well. Suppose you could use a used tube which is blocked and sealed by the previous use and screw it in to the barrel really tight . Liked the underwater trick and the tape method is used on coolant tank cleaning use your method and pour in the bleach or vinegar which ever is the magic potion to clean the tank. Thanks for the video highlighting the absolute waste of the remaining contents in these barrels of silicone not only a sealant , but an adhesive in many applications.
This is a great tip. My favourite caulk used to come in a handy pack for DIY use - as well as a cartridge they also sold it in a flexible tube, like a big toothpaste tube with a screw-on top. I loved these as not only did I find them easier to control than a cartridge, they kept forever. Alas, they stopped selling them in that format. I'm guessing they weren't profitable and sales looked low because people like me didn't have to buy as many. So it goes.
Recently had my wife use the food vacuum sealer to seal up a few tubes. Will see how that works. Been using electrical tape for a while but without the extra tab at end. Not great success with the electrical tape but will try the extra tab and see what happens. Thanks for the ideas.
I had no clue what I was doing. Fake it till you make it, as the saying goes ... I always took a sandwich bag and wrapped it around the tip and rubberband that fugly mess down with a few air-tight loops with the rubberband. Seems to have worked. After years, never had caulk dried out on me. But, I will now first seal the tip with the electric tape trick ... then wrap it with the sandwich bag and rubberband to make double sure.
I use teflon tabe for plumbing screw connections at the threads at the base and here most tubes come with a screw on cap for the top where I also use it. It will keep for a long time.
This guy knows absolutely nothing about caulk! Many caulk products especially silicone react with water speeding up the drying process!! And will make silicone not stick once dried. We add water in silicone when Making plugs for molds so that we can remove the silicone after it drys. And silicone will fully dry withing minutes if mixed with a little bit of water.. Putting a caulk tube in water is rediculus. Your Ruining the caulk. Not preserving it
I've had great results with storage in the refrigerator. Especially RTV (room temperature vulcanized) types. It's also works great for multiple varnish and paint brushes between daily coats(varnish) without having to clean brushes between coats.
Yes put the unwashed paint-laden roller in a plastic bag and in the freezer… as I have found that extreme heat will set silicon in tubes, the fridge idea would likely work for that too.
What type of sealant are you referring too, latex, siicone, thermoplastic, butyl or polyurethane? They all have different curing and aging properties, sealed or unsealed. You are bang on about the "gimmicks"Thanks.
Simply use the cone shaped plastic cap that comes with most of these sealants. But you gotta squeeze some sealant out first (1/4 inch of sealant) protruding out of the tip to eliminate or reduce the air pocket inside the cap, then put the cap on tight until it sits all the way down on the tip.
I have been using electrical tape for years! I also add a wrap if I am not going to use it for a while. I have reused it after more than six months of sitting on the shelf!
Make a short video and post of this also. Very good information and some people don't have the attention span to watch it all! Also would it be possible to hear your opinion on sprinkler systems for the garden? What to use and think about before DIY one?
Good info. I have also found that using aluminum tape works very well too. I have reopened tubes “sealed” with aluminum tape 6+ months later with no issues wrt to caulk hardening. It is extremely durable, airtight, albeit a bit expensive. I use it for many applications where I need a nearly permanent air/water tight seal
Thanks, helpful. I'd add that some caulks, construction glues and fillers cure from the moisture in the air, so don't put those types in a glass of water.
Will have to try the electrical tape! Glad press n seal is what I started using this year. Also works wonders for swapping out the jug on a water cooler. Plus, no residue - and you can use it for its original purpose (food storage).
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Enjoy All your vids. Years ago someone on TH-cam or TOH said he had success by using plumbers putty. He might have said good for 6 mos. Or more. Haven’t tried it myself. Keep the vids coming. Thanks for your efforts
I’ve successfully used a few layers of aluminum foil made into a thimble and containing some petroleum jelly (Vaseline). Hold in place with a rubber band. Wipe off before using. Am going to try the electrical tape as it will be less messy.
I’ve been using the tape method (long ways with the pinched tab) for years with pretty good success. Never thought to use electrical tape though . Will give it a shot next time around.
Awhile ago I saw a trick where you take a zip lock bag and wrap it around the tip. Wrap a rubber band around it and then squirt some caulk in it. I’ve been doing that ever since but this definitely seems easier.
You know that moisture, water or water vapor, is the catalyst that triggers silicone RTV to harden, right? So if you plunk a tube of that in water, I'm pretty sure you can kiss it goodbye. Maybe oil of some sort, I have no idea but certainly not water.
I've never tried squeezing the whole tube into a pile, but then again, I've never found that useful. However, I am fascinated by how you reinserted the calk you squeezed out back into the tube near the beginning.
I sort of does something similar, I put many tubes tip down in an empty paint container (one gallon) and pour some used oil in the container and some oil on top of the tubes to seal the back end.
Novel idea, for sure. I've had the best luck using a glob of sticky rv butyl putty around the tip. I've used sealants a year later just fine, didn't dry out! Now, another important thing to consider...if the seal at the plunger side of the tube has been compromised (i.e. forcing the sealant past the seal)...it will still dry out, no matter what you do.
On large trim jobs we would put all of our partially used caulk tubes in a bucket of water. It was known as turtle water as it became funky as the job continued on.
Thanks for the tip. I've fallen prey to several of the gimmicks shown here. Oftentimes I wind up slicing the plastic top lengthwise then yanking out a good portion of the dried out caulk with hanger wire. I'll have to give the electrical tape a try. Another commenter mentioned also storing the tubes with the tip facing down afterward, which sounds interesting as well.
Good tip. A less eco version(unintentional discovery) I've been doing till now is to cut off a glove's finger after using a pair of those nitrile gloves and tie it round the end of the nozzle using a rubber band. Been doing that for years and it's ok. Only trouble is, you have to remove the tip and push out the slightly hard bit stuck on the end. This water method is so much better. Cheers.
Aluminum/metal tape used on ducts also works. 1 piece folded over the tip. Bring the sides together & twist/wrap around the tip. 2nd piece wrapped around the 1st to apply a 2ns seal. Always works if wrapped tight.
I've had electrical tape sealed caulk last longer than duct tape sealled caulk, but it took me a year to learn that you have to tape it the long way across vs circling. Circling only works for short term sealing, creating that tab works long term.
After a series of tests, I finally chose to use transparent carton sealing glue to wrap around the cone-shaped closed opening, and then squeeze out a certain amount of silicone to let it solidify. When you pull it out next time, some solid will be taken out, and it will not block the hole. The longest storage time in a room temperature diffuse light environment is 6 months, but the front end is slightly more solidified.
In the UK, you can unscrew the entire nozzle and then easily remove any dried caulk. Also means you can replace the nozzle, if you need different size tips for example. Never understood why they don't use that same design in North America... except of course, it causes a lot of wastage and forces people to buy more caulk!
I have used twist on wire/cable nuts and have had good success in sealing for months. I seal the bottom with a few rounds of electrical tape. As noted in the video, other tapes don't work well.
I use a piece of disposable gloves and tie it with a rubber band and fill the void by squeezing the tube until the glove part expands a little. Works well for me.
I've had good long term results twisting on really large wire nuts. I've also had very good long term results using HVAC aluminum foil tape. I also put the purchase date on all of all my tubes.
Thanks for this tip as it costs basically nothing! Wanted to mention though that there is a very low cost commercial product that has worked extremely well for me: its basically a tiny condom that fits over the tip and rolls out to completely cover it. Its a very tight fit and is airtight. Another suggestion which complements yours and also costs nothing: cover the bottom of the tube (where the plunger fits) with saran wrap. Its possible for air to get in that way as well.
@@glasslinger I asked same question of myself when I first heard this recommendation. It's really just a precaution. For most tubes and caulk guns, it's not an issue. But with some tubes as they empty out and more pressure is required from the plunging mechanism, the plunger itself winds up deforming tube's bottom cap. This happened to me with a couple of tubes. Flow in half-used tube was fine at first and actually got worse as session progressed (congealed caulk at bottom). So I just put the sticky saran wrap on as precaution.
You can also coat an appropriate guage screw with the product from the gun itself then screw it into nossle & around screw head to create an airtight seal. (Make sure you also apply the sealant to the nossle threads as well) Works for me for atleast 3 months or longer. Electrical tape looks interesting, might try that. Cheers 🍻
Yeah learned the water trick 20 years ago, works great. Also, to make soda last longer, turn the bottle upside down in the fridge and the carbonation will last longer
If manufacturers would make the tip that screws off we would be able to remove the tip and clean it out. Since the stuff in the tip solidifies it will seal it and the rest of the tube is good. I think in Europe they are sold this way. I tried to verify this but I could not find the info to verify it. The only reason US manufacturers do not make the tubes with removable tips is because 1- It would cost more, 2- then we would not have to throw out so many unused tubes and buy more. Great tip I'm going to try it, I think this will work.
*Thanks for watching, I hope this can save you some money* - Siligun review: th-cam.com/video/msiQJNKuyUs/w-d-xo.html Fav Electric Tape: amzn.to/3XHKw7X Siligun: amzn.to/3XJXVMU
FYI I've used the one with a red cone at the .25 second mark and it works great. I just got out a tube of caulk a few days ago that has been sitting in the basement for over a year and the caulk came right out like new.
My dad and I changed the roof on their house from shingles to metal. There's a roll of a clay-like or putty-like material that you roll along the seam of each new piece of metal that you add, and overlap. It's supposed to never dry out. I take a short chunk of that stuff, about the size of a marble, ball it up. Then push it over the end so some goes inside to help seal, and some goes on the outside to help hold it on the tip. Has worked years for me. But, I understand most people won't have a roll of that stuff laying around.
Very good advice, and here's another one. I've used sealants like this for over 40 years and I know of no-one who knows how to clean it off your hands or places where you don't want it. While it is still uncured simply use an alcohol based hand sanitizer, the more alcohol in the sanitizer the better it works. It dissolves the sealant and you can simply wipe it off.
I put a bit of dish washing soap in a glass of water and dip my fingers there before touching it and it also works well!
Metholated spirits cleans well.
Any advice on existing overapplied? I put some in my shower and ran my finger down the crease but it went out a little further than i wanted. Do you just need a scraper at that point?
WD-40 for sealant, oil, fat paint, glue and so on and wash your hands afterwards of course. Alcohol based products can dry out the skin which can cause cracks and infections. Just another sugestion because everyone is different. 😉
Only necessary if you are using solvent based caulks. Most folks are going to use water based caulks so all they need is water and maybe bit of soap.
This is right on the basics - an airtight seal is what you usually need, and almost all materials are porous to some extent. You need to at least use a sealing material that is as low-porosity as possible. Common polypropylene tape (packing tape) is decent in this regard. PET would be more ideal, but it's less commonly used. The perfect material would be mylar (any food packaging with that silvery layer inside). Mylar as both PET layers and a super thin aluminium layer - making it as close to airproof as a thin material can be. It's a very useful material to have around, and so easy to scavenge from chip bags.
But here is an important thing the video fails to mention: *The curing mechanism of different caulks is not the same!* Therefore different types will need very different considerations. Here is a breakdown of curing methods used in caulks, in rough order of how common they are:
*Water based, evaporation:* Common cheap latex caulk. Just keep it from drying and you will be fine. Easy to keep a long time.
*Moisture-curing*: This is basically the opposite. Moisture (including air moisture) makes it harden. Applies to many silicones (often those with little odor) and more advanced siloxane caulks (the stuff that behaves like silicone but is paintable). Also most polyurethane based ones. This is difficult to keep good. I use sealing + putting the whole thing in a sealed bag with a dessicant (like those silica gel bead bagsyou see in shoes and such - always keep those. They can be regenerated and used indefinitely :) Some degree of curing is almost impossible to avoid - but with these methods you can limit it so much that unblocking the before use is pretty easy.
*Oxygen-curing*: This is the only group that actually reacts to the air itself. Many simpler oil-based caulks (often construction caulks) use this, as well as some silicones.
*Solvent-based evaporation*: Fairly self-explanatory. Like water-based just with a different solvent, and keeping it from drying out is the goal. Often has a solvent type smell. Used in some rubber type outdoor or specialty caulks.
*Two-component*: Like an epoxy, 2 components need to mix to cure. These are easy to spot because they have 2 nozzles and a special mixing tip. They are never used as sealing caulks in the normal sense, but they come in caulk-like tube formats. It's basically epoxy on a tube for heavy duty fixing of reeinforcements or post to concrete ect. They should be sealed reasonably to prevent premature degradation (they can work poorly when too old), but they won't cure until they mix.
*UV-curing*: Rare for caulks. A little more common in specialty epoxy-glues and in a few very high-end varnishes.
As you see from this - putting your caulk-tip in water could either be a very good idea, or completely ruin your whole tube in a very short time. You should try to identify the curing method first of all. All of these same basics apply to anything else that cures also - like all glues, all paints ect. and is very useful to be aware of. For example, oil-based paints don't cure by drying like most people think. It's oxygen-curing (the solvent is just there to keep it flowing easily). That's why oil-based paints easily generate that gooey layer on top if you aren't diligent about your re-sealing. Your expanding foam is moisture-curing, so put that in a bag with a dessicator ect. ect. Using the appropriate methods you can vastly extend the usable life of all these products.
Thank you for taking the time to share this information!
@@Guishan_Lingyou I'm very glad if my meandering ramblings helps someone :)
@@Guishan_Lingyou I'm very glad if my meandering ramblings helps someone :)
@@TheStigmayour rambling was more informative than the video. Thanks. In reality there's no method for long term storage is there? I mean , it'll eventually go hard even if it's never opened. I learned that the hard way.
I've tried dipping the tip in melted wax, and also latex paint. I think what I need is to buy smaller tubes. Also I need to accept that some is inevitably going to waste.
@@mrq6270 Most compunded chemicals will eventually fail from something at some point because premature curing is not the only thing that will degrade it. It's just the most common and fastest. It's also what primarily kills unopened tubes (more on that later)
But it depends what you define as "long-term". I've stored open tubes of moisture reactive silicone caulks for 3+ years with no observable change in consistency, curing or performance. I have some even older oil paints (10L buckets that I only use in small amounts, so it lasts me a long time and is super economical. This is extremely long past what their expected shelf-life is, even if unopened (which they aren't).
If you want to really store it for long then you need to do more than just sealing the tips and lids well though. Consider the following:
A typical caulking tube's rear-end also has a (very basic press-fit) seal that needs to move as it gets pushed forward. This is much to leaky for long-term storage of anything other than water-based stuff.
The tube is also typically made from HDPE, which is far from the worst material, but it absolutely will allow some gas-transfer in and out over a long timeframe. Only metals and glass can truly be considered non-gas-permeable.
No matter how well sealed the tip is - these will cause failure in longer term storage, but you can mitigate both fairly easily:
Clean out a chip bag (mylar) thoroughly and put the whole tube inside. Add a dessicator pack for moisture-curing stuff. For oxygen-curing stuff you can purge the air with a short burst of any relatively inert or stable gas significantly heavier than air. Propane is a very cheap and option available everywhere that is non-reactive for most compounds. CO2 also fairly stable if you happen to have that. A truly inert gas like argon would be ideal - but who has that in their garage? :) I use propane a lot half-full oil paint tins before re-sealing. There isn't sufficient volume to be any safety risk. The higher-than-air density means you can fill containers as if it were an invisible liquid, making it easy to work with. Then you squeeze out the excess gas in the bag and seal it. An ordinary ikea-style long "bread-bag" clip actually works quite well as long as you use only flat folds. Or, if you want to be fancy you can grab a mini plastic sealer device on aliexpress for 2 dollars and actually hermetically seal it (plastic welding) - just as they did at the factory where the bag came from. Now you have a optimally non-gas-permeable, completely UV proof, controlled atmosphere container - at the cost of some free recycled "trash" and 2-3 minutes work. Just remember to label the damn thing lol :P
You can skip athmosphere purging and just use a good clip-seal and still get most of the benefits if you want to keep it as easy as possible. Vacuuum sealing would do the same job as gas purging if you prefer - but this usually requires a bit more of a setup.
I haven't done any decades-long studies on what the extremes of possible storage time is for various compounds - but suffice it to say I have never seen a notable change in anything I've sealed like that to date - much less be hardened in the tube. So lots of things can last a very long time if conditions are truly optimized, but the chemistry of each compund will all act a little different over a long timeframe.
Hopefully that gave you some useful tips to try. I'm just glad to share with people who actually care about such nitty-gritty details :D
I just recently started using a Sharpie cap to put over the end of the tube. So far it’s worked great. I’m going on 3 months with the current caulking tube and it’s not wasted any product. And it’s FREE!
yup multiple things work,,silver cymbal is running out of content.
I fold plastic wrap, lay it over the tip, then tape it. Same principle, but I found squeezing a little caulk out after it’s taped up really eliminates any remaining air.
I do the exact same thing and ive been able to come back to a tube months later
I use a soft plastic type cap found on Amazon, (caulk cap CCY-2). Insert a little water into the cap, put the cap on. Still using the same cartridge for over one year now.
Those are the best
I have had great success with the Caulk Cap too. The best solution I have found for sure. And cheap too. Not as cheap as electric tape, but I hate electric tape. The adhesive gets all over everything it touches.
I haven't had any real luck with electrical tape for the past decade I've been using it. And yeah it ends up messy. I finally bought some similar caulk caps this week; so adding some water helps? Doesn't it dry anyway?
@@jerther_ I have never added water and haven’t had issues. Pretty sure I have had caulk survive for more than a year with just the Caulk Cap. The caulk does becomes “drier” (less viscous) but not dry. Even then, it would only be the next bit of caulk you squirt out. Beyond that everything is fine. Silicone caulk is probably a no go but I rarely use that and stick with the premium elastomeric latex caulks.
Thank you for calling out others that don’t works. 👍
No problem, gimmicks are good when they work, some of these will make the problem worse
YES, I have been using electrical type for years to seal partially uses caulking and adhesive tubes. IT WORKS!
"...giving them out at a clinic." 🤣 Thanks for the tips - and the humor Chris! 👍
I must admit that this is one kick ass idea and, I've never ever heard of it.
Thanks so much.
Cheers Bill
A little blob of hot glue over the opening and you can store the tube as long as you want. Time to use the caulk, just pull off the hardened hot glue and you’re good to go…rinse and repeat….
I was thinking this. Don't forget a bead around the plunger too.
Its what I do. Works perfectly. I tap it down ( very wet finger, its hot, be careful) around the complete area on the top of the tube. I clean out the nozzles before storing them.
Wow, just wow. The epitome of cheap, easy and effective. 👍👍👍👍👍
Aluminum foil tape works better than anything I’ve tried, but it sounds like the electricians tape may work even better. The aluminum tape is also useful if the tip is badly plugged. I’ve been able to slit the tip lengthwise, pull out the cured caulk, and then wrap it back together with the aluminum tape. So far it’s worked every time.
This
I"ve been doing it this way as well but I think I'll try electrical tape.
Great tip. I fold a plastic bag several times and hold it on with a rubber band. This has worked for very long periods like several months.
I have used this method and it really works very well. The only thing I did is added a high quality duct tape to seal the open end before inserting the open end in a cup of water.
Two weeks have passed and when I tried to use the tube, the caulking was still in excellent shape and was able use whatever was left in the tube absolutely without any problems.
Thank you for posting this method. I no longer have to throw away tubes of caulking away.
I've been using duck tape for years in this way. But, with a second step: make sure the tube is stored point down when taped with whatever tape you use. That way, even if a tiny amount of air gets past the tape, the little bit of caulk in the very tip is what dries and not the whole tube. Sure, you have to push a bit to get past that rice grain's bit of dried caulk. But, I've had tubes go for several years this way. I learned it from a beautician a contractor I worked for in college did a job for. She used to keep all sorts of supplies in tubes and always stored them open end down this way for that reason. Now, I'll just use electrical tape while doing it instead.
I think the reason why storing it upside down works is because it pushes the materials down to the tip over time and forms a seal 🦭
@@danielb5721 This!
Duck tape, eh? I prefer goose tape.
I use hvac aluminum foil tape the same way you use the electrical with good results. it forms tight.
I use it too. Aluminum tape has stronger sealant capabilities although it is not as cheap as electric tape.
Great foil tape is used by more and more variety of trades , this tape was originally invented as a HEAT TRANSFER TAPE. it was to be used lengthwise on top of heat tracing holding it in contact to the pipe and transferring the lost heat to the adjacent pipe. Back in the 1970's HVAC workers seen it being used in hi heat, and adopted it even thou it's poor tensile strength it's use is prevalent.
Very helpful. Have tried all the tricks you showed, now you have given me two I had no idea to try but will use going forward .✅
WOW! Awesome! I don't know how many tubes i've wasted over the years!!
For those cartridges that came with a threaded cap i always squeeze a bit of caulk with the cap in place but not tightened, and then i tighten to make a messy but good seal, however over long periods of time it will still dry a bit but not the whole cartridge. For those who haven't the the cap i used plastic tape applied as you shown.
yeah, this works pretty good but not indefinitely
the problem, especially with the conically shaped tips, is that as the caulk cures it shrinks a little and by nature will allow air into the system where more will cure and then shrink
thank you!!! I've tried all the others and none worked more than very short term
I cover the opening with hot glue and that has worked really well too.
yeah, no, having another POWER tool to do little sealant sealing vs taking a tape from pocket :) Now you can do it the right way too!
A great idea which identifies the problem and then provides two simple solutions. Thanks! 😊😊
Good suggestions. But the bottom line is that air gets in the bottom. An inch and a half plumber's rubber end cap with a hose clamp works perfectly. I have been using it along with your electrical tape for the tip and with both things together... have worked great for me for many years!
Makes sense. I use electrical tape to cover all the crazy flashing lights on my modem and router, no light gets through that stuff.
Never heard of using electrical tape, so big thanks for saving me a hassle in the future. I usually have to simply throw the half-used tubes away because I know they'll be dried out in a few days, never mind months down the road when I might need to use them again.
Good idea, I'll give it a try as none of the other methods have worked for me. Thanks
Hot glue.
Gonna try this.
I been using wide painter's tape, but with a bubble at the end. I then fill the bubble with caulk until it ooze out the seams. Works decent.
I use a screw or a bolt stuffed in the tube, works about half the time. Gonna have to try the Electrical Tape method.
Same here and same results. Works about half the time.
You need more than one size of screw for more than one size of hole. If the fit is too loose it gets all dry and the vibe is lost.
I’ve used electric tape for a few years it mostly works. Same results as other using screws 50/50
My grandpa used a large nail and electric tape, so I guess he had it all figured out. 😂
@ryanlandry8214 best of both worlds!
Although I wrap the tape differently than you describe, I have been using electrical tape for a very long time to seal caulk tubes with great success. Recently, I started inserting a nail (with a head so it doesn't go in all the way) into the tip before before taping. This way, the tip doesn't get clogged with that little bit of caulk which sometimes requires cutting the tip bigger if you can't clear the clog.
Great tip at the end. I’ll start using it. I usually just wrap a piece of plastic around the tip, tape it down and squeeze a blob of whatever is in the tube into the plastic. It comes apart easily and keeps the tube usable.
I actually tried this....to make it last longer, I used TWO long strips at 90 degrees plus a turn or two of tape AROUND over the tube tip near the top...so far...it still holds...about 4 months.
THANKS MUCH!!!
I use the caulk itself to provide the seal. Squeeze out a blob, leave it on the top, then cover with the cap or a wire nut.
Thanks, I'll definitely give it a try. I have some roof sealant to try this week but only need a small amount. I hate to buy a $10 tube and only use it once.
I often rip one of the fingers off my nitrile glove, put it over the tip then tape it up. Works great.
Glad Wrap around the tip a few times then a rubber band around it many times. The tube has to be screwed into the barrel as tight as possible as well.
Suppose you could use a used tube which is blocked and sealed by the previous use and screw it in to the barrel really tight . Liked the underwater trick and the tape method is used on coolant tank cleaning use your method and pour in the bleach or vinegar which ever is the magic potion to clean the tank. Thanks for the video highlighting the absolute waste of the remaining contents in these barrels of silicone not only a sealant , but an adhesive in many applications.
This is a great tip. My favourite caulk used to come in a handy pack for DIY use - as well as a cartridge they also sold it in a flexible tube, like a big toothpaste tube with a screw-on top. I loved these as not only did I find them easier to control than a cartridge, they kept forever. Alas, they stopped selling them in that format. I'm guessing they weren't profitable and sales looked low because people like me didn't have to buy as many. So it goes.
Recently had my wife use the food vacuum sealer to seal up a few tubes. Will see how that works. Been using electrical tape for a while but without the extra tab at end. Not great success with the electrical tape but will try the extra tab and see what happens. Thanks for the ideas.
For years I've been taping up the tip and putting the tube in the freezer, works great.
Thank you for this helpful tip this will help me out a lot with the next tube of caulk. Love your videos.
I had no clue what I was doing. Fake it till you make it, as the saying goes ...
I always took a sandwich bag and wrapped it around the tip and rubberband that fugly mess down with a few air-tight loops with the rubberband. Seems to have worked. After years, never had caulk dried out on me.
But, I will now first seal the tip with the electric tape trick ... then wrap it with the sandwich bag and rubberband to make double sure.
This is so smart and exactly what i needed.
Your channel is always so helpful man. I recommend it to everyone.
I use teflon tabe for plumbing screw connections at the threads at the base and here most tubes come with a screw on cap for the top where I also use it. It will keep for a long time.
This guy knows how to use his caulk.
😂👍
💀
It lasts a long time. So yeah
This guy knows absolutely nothing about caulk! Many caulk products especially silicone react with water speeding up the drying process!! And will make silicone not stick once dried. We add water in silicone when Making plugs for molds so that we can remove the silicone after it drys. And silicone will fully dry withing minutes if mixed with a little bit of water..
Putting a caulk tube in water is rediculus. Your Ruining the caulk. Not preserving it
He dips it in water before putting it in🥰
I've had great results with storage in the refrigerator. Especially RTV (room temperature vulcanized) types.
It's also works great for multiple varnish and paint brushes between daily coats(varnish) without having to clean brushes between coats.
Yes put the unwashed paint-laden roller in a plastic bag and in the freezer… as I have found that extreme heat will set silicon in tubes, the fridge idea would likely work for that too.
Really appreciate this tip. You're right, sealant is getting very expensive indeed.
What type of sealant are you referring too, latex, siicone, thermoplastic, butyl or polyurethane? They all have different curing and aging properties, sealed or unsealed. You are bang on about the "gimmicks"Thanks.
Simply use the cone shaped plastic cap that comes with most of these sealants. But you gotta squeeze some sealant out first (1/4 inch of sealant) protruding out of the tip to eliminate or reduce the air pocket inside the cap, then put the cap on tight until it sits all the way down on the tip.
I have been using electrical tape for years! I also add a wrap if I am not going to use it for a while. I have reused it after more than six months of sitting on the shelf!
I put a screw in the end ( stainless steel) then use carburetor cleaner to loosen any hardened caulk. It works for me
Great tip! What about the other end? It's not air tight so it will also dry out right?
I absolutely LOVE your videos as I learn so many great tricks such as this. Please keep up the great work!
Thank you, that is very nice of you to say
Make a short video and post of this also. Very good information and some people don't have the attention span to watch it all!
Also would it be possible to hear your opinion on sprinkler systems for the garden? What to use and think about before DIY one?
I’ve used cling wrap over the cap then screwed the lid onto it. That’s worked for me 😊
This is so simple it’s genius. Definitely giving this a try on my next tube after removing the clinic apparatus I bought this spring.
As someone who believes caulking keeps our housing together, i can't wait to try this as I have tried everything. Humans are all about patch jobs:)
Good info. I have also found that using aluminum tape works very well too. I have reopened tubes “sealed” with aluminum tape 6+ months later with no issues wrt to caulk hardening. It is extremely durable, airtight, albeit a bit expensive. I use it for many applications where I need a nearly permanent air/water tight seal
Cracking tip, never thought that anything would be better than Duck, well done and thank you.
Thanks, helpful. I'd add that some caulks, construction glues and fillers cure from the moisture in the air, so don't put those types in a glass of water.
Moisture accelerates the hardening of the sealant. Great advice on how to ruin a full tube of sealant.
Fantastic! I never would have thought about electric tape.
Will have to try the electrical tape! Glad press n seal is what I started using this year. Also works wonders for swapping out the jug on a water cooler. Plus, no residue - and you can use it for its original purpose (food storage).
Enjoy All your vids. Years ago someone on TH-cam or TOH said he had success by using plumbers putty. He might have said good for 6 mos. Or more. Haven’t tried it myself. Keep the vids coming. Thanks for your efforts
I’ve successfully used a few layers of aluminum foil made into a thimble and containing some petroleum jelly (Vaseline). Hold in place with a rubber band. Wipe off before using. Am going to try the electrical tape as it will be less messy.
I’ve been using the tape method (long ways with the pinched tab) for years with pretty good success.
Never thought to use electrical tape though . Will give it a shot next time around.
Awhile ago I saw a trick where you take a zip lock bag and wrap it around the tip. Wrap a rubber band around it and then squirt some caulk in it.
I’ve been doing that ever since but this definitely seems easier.
I have used those latex covers they absolutely do work
This is great!!! Thank you. I always store my tubes in a zip lock bag but this trick is extra handy.
You know that moisture, water or water vapor, is the catalyst that triggers silicone RTV to harden, right? So if you plunk a tube of that in water, I'm pretty sure you can kiss it goodbye. Maybe oil of some sort, I have no idea but certainly not water.
Great video. I've sealed caulk tubes up this way with duct tape for years but I will try electrical tape instead.
I've never tried squeezing the whole tube into a pile, but then again, I've never found that useful. However, I am fascinated by how you reinserted the calk you squeezed out back into the tube near the beginning.
I sort of does something similar, I put many tubes tip down in an empty paint container (one gallon) and pour some used oil in the container and some oil on top of the tubes to seal the back end.
Novel idea, for sure. I've had the best luck using a glob of sticky rv butyl putty around the tip. I've used sealants a year later just fine, didn't dry out! Now, another important thing to consider...if the seal at the plunger side of the tube has been compromised (i.e. forcing the sealant past the seal)...it will still dry out, no matter what you do.
On large trim jobs we would put all of our partially used caulk tubes in a bucket of water. It was known as turtle water as it became funky as the job continued on.
Liking the water idea.
I also only use electric tape but do the wrap thing. Will try the tab idea. Sounds good. Thankyou.
Thanks for the tip. I've fallen prey to several of the gimmicks shown here. Oftentimes I wind up slicing the plastic top lengthwise then yanking out a good portion of the dried out caulk with hanger wire. I'll have to give the electrical tape a try. Another commenter mentioned also storing the tubes with the tip facing down afterward, which sounds interesting as well.
Quick, cheap, and to the point, I love it. Thank you.
Good tip. A less eco version(unintentional discovery) I've been doing till now is to cut off a glove's finger after using a pair of those nitrile gloves and tie it round the end of the nozzle using a rubber band. Been doing that for years and it's ok. Only trouble is, you have to remove the tip and push out the slightly hard bit stuck on the end. This water method is so much better.
Cheers.
Aluminum/metal tape used on ducts also works. 1 piece folded over the tip. Bring the sides together & twist/wrap around the tip. 2nd piece wrapped around the 1st to apply a 2ns seal. Always works if wrapped tight.
stumbled on using electrical tape decades ago. I've had some tubes sit around for over a year and it was fine when i needed it next.
I've had electrical tape sealed caulk last longer than duct tape sealled caulk, but it took me a year to learn that you have to tape it the long way across vs circling. Circling only works for short term sealing, creating that tab works long term.
After a series of tests, I finally chose to use transparent carton sealing glue to wrap around the cone-shaped closed opening, and then squeeze out a certain amount of silicone to let it solidify. When you pull it out next time, some solid will be taken out, and it will not block the hole. The longest storage time in a room temperature diffuse light environment is 6 months, but the front end is slightly more solidified.
I saved the cap from a flexible, hand-squeezed, tube of caulk. It fits the caulk-gun tubes perfectly and works fine.
I've used saran wrap with good success. Just make sure there's no air and secure it with a rubber band.
What a great tip. Works on the smaller squeeze tubes also👍
I've been using aluminum foil tape but it's not so easy to remove so I think I'll try the electrical tape method for a change. Thanks!
In the UK, you can unscrew the entire nozzle and then easily remove any dried caulk. Also means you can replace the nozzle, if you need different size tips for example. Never understood why they don't use that same design in North America... except of course, it causes a lot of wastage and forces people to buy more caulk!
Great, so now I learn that you guys have the best electric outlets on earth AND sealable caulking tubes!
@@SilverCymbal Haha, i actually prefer the North America outlets, the plugs hurt less when you step on them in the dark 😆
I use the yellow Dap covers. They work period. I just pulled one off from about a year ago and the caulking dispensed as normal.
I have used twist on wire/cable nuts and have had good success in sealing for months. I seal the bottom with a few rounds of electrical tape. As noted in the video, other tapes don't work well.
I use a piece of disposable gloves and tie it with a rubber band and fill the void by squeezing the tube until the glove part expands a little. Works well for me.
I've had good long term results twisting on really large wire nuts. I've also had very good long term results using HVAC aluminum foil tape. I also put the purchase date on all of all my tubes.
Nice...Electrical Tape Just blew my mind. I've been using these corks they sold at Lowes but your tip is way easier & cheaper.
Thanks for this tip as it costs basically nothing! Wanted to mention though that there is a very low cost commercial product that has worked extremely well for me: its basically a tiny condom that fits over the tip and rolls out to completely cover it. Its a very tight fit and is airtight. Another suggestion which complements yours and also costs nothing: cover the bottom of the tube (where the plunger fits) with saran wrap. Its possible for air to get in that way as well.
If air gets in the bottom why do tubes sit for long periods when in the store without hardening..
@@glasslinger I asked same question of myself when I first heard this recommendation. It's really just a precaution. For most tubes and caulk guns, it's not an issue. But with some tubes as they empty out and more pressure is required from the plunging mechanism, the plunger itself winds up deforming tube's bottom cap. This happened to me with a couple of tubes. Flow in half-used tube was fine at first and actually got worse as session progressed (congealed caulk at bottom). So I just put the sticky saran wrap on as precaution.
You can also coat an appropriate guage screw with the product from the gun itself then screw it into nossle & around screw head to create an airtight seal. (Make sure you also apply the sealant to the nossle threads as well) Works for me for atleast 3 months or longer. Electrical tape looks interesting, might try that. Cheers 🍻
I double shrewd leaves with my lawn tractor. It work great and also has grass clippings which add greens to the carbon leaves.
Thank you for the tip and have a blessed day today 🙏
FYI, the premier go-to tape is 3M 'Super 33'. It's flexible, pliable and works like a miracle
Yeah learned the water trick 20 years ago, works great. Also, to make soda last longer, turn the bottle upside down in the fridge and the carbonation will last longer
If manufacturers would make the tip that screws off we would be able to remove the tip and clean it out. Since the stuff in the tip solidifies it will seal it and the rest of the tube is good. I think in Europe they are sold this way. I tried to verify this but I could not find the info to verify it. The only reason US manufacturers do not make the tubes with removable tips is because 1- It would cost more, 2- then we would not have to throw out so many unused tubes and buy more. Great tip I'm going to try it, I think this will work.
thanks for the tip, where did you buy that gun, its smaller and looks amazing compared to a standard one. thanks