I finally have this pair of speakers done and I'm enjoying the heck out of them every night in my society deprivation chamber (aka, listening room). Sanding to 220 grit, then wiped on three coats of a tung oil blend, letting each coat dry 24 hours. Then top coated that with two sprayed on coats of satin water based poly to give them real protection and get the gloss level I want. While all that was happening I assembled the crossovers. The circuit board I used was a thin piece of solid cherry and I connected the components point to point. Drawing the schematic on the first one really helped, then I tested that before doing the second one. Fishing the wires through went okay, but if I were to do it over again, I'd spend a bit more time making sure the passage through the base was smoother. Or just put the wires in while assembling the base - that would be easier. How do they sound? Great! But keep in mind that these were designed and made for a very specific purpose, and that's to replace the first reflection off the side walls in my listening room. And for that, these are perfect. If you don't know what I'm talking about, check out the first video in this series where i describe this reflection replacement principle. Click the link below. This is part 7 (the finale) in my series on designing making a pair of open baffle 2-way speakers to use as "surround" speakers in my listening room. I've created a playlist with all of the videos: th-cam.com/play/PLQl9KPrpiIH-5l4QhxUYXHGhr-covK8n6.html
It's raining here while watching this video. For a few seconds I thought my roof was leaking, then I paused the video. Yup, my roof is leaking. Squirrels love making a hole in my roof and living in the attic. Speakers turned out really nice and really cool to see you wire that crossover.
Looks great, but cannot judge the sound. Have seen your woodworking before and you are one of the best. I would never built an open baffle speaker. The rear end of the speaker is not designed to be open. I’m more a fan of the Troels Graveson designed speakers. Recently built a speaker from soundblabs with good result. Next one will be from Troels one day I hope.
I think those metal plates may have an unexpected effect on the sound of the speakers. It will likely shield any outside electronic noise from any nearby devices from being added to the source signal. Good design!
Speaker level signals are extremely immune to interference, so shielding won't have any effect. Besides, the plates are on the bottom and these speakers are on the floor in my basement, with a concrete slab on top of miles of dirt below.
Did the addition of the capacitor to the woofer add an order to the crossover? I ended up removing an order from a crossover but you can imagine it's not as clean a procedure when you started with it 😅
I would have attenuated the tweeter somewhat. Most people like it better a little below than a little above the average level - sometimes called the Harman curve.
That curve results normally from the speakers playing in a room, and is not a target for speaker response. Speakers should be as flat as possible. When you put flat speakers in a room, the combination of direct sound and reflected sound naturally creates that downward slope referred to as the Harman curve.
The speakers turned out great! I'm a new woodworker - why did you apply the tung oil in three thin applications, rather than flooding it on? Thanks for all the great inspiration.
Very interested in how you wired up the crossover. Please slow down and narrate. It looks like you have a very straightforward method for what can get a bit confusing. Please share your approach. Thank you.
Ah, the wonderful world of audiophilery where iron core inductors are bad in a crossover, but iron core transformers are nothing short of awesome in a tube amp. Where shielding with thick machined billet aluminum is essential for a solid state amp, but having the tubes jutting up out of the chassis on a tube amp perfectly fine. Where a cable that costs $10,000 can make all the difference for a "resolving" system, while playing in a what amounts to an acoustic echo chamber.
@@IBuildIt Indeed And you're illustrating the key leverage points; Simple, well designed dipole, well placed, ... in a well executed room. The loudspeaker/room interface is essentially everything. John, this was a piece of work, bravo. Art. Much appreciated!
No paint or any laquer will hold after you oil the wood, it will have 100% adhesion problem and sooner or later peel. Eather oil and that it is or start with laquer and that it is.
I finally have this pair of speakers done and I'm enjoying the heck out of them every night in my society deprivation chamber (aka, listening room).
Sanding to 220 grit, then wiped on three coats of a tung oil blend, letting each coat dry 24 hours. Then top coated that with two sprayed on coats of satin water based poly to give them real protection and get the gloss level I want.
While all that was happening I assembled the crossovers. The circuit board I used was a thin piece of solid cherry and I connected the components point to point. Drawing the schematic on the first one really helped, then I tested that before doing the second one.
Fishing the wires through went okay, but if I were to do it over again, I'd spend a bit more time making sure the passage through the base was smoother. Or just put the wires in while assembling the base - that would be easier.
How do they sound? Great! But keep in mind that these were designed and made for a very specific purpose, and that's to replace the first reflection off the side walls in my listening room. And for that, these are perfect. If you don't know what I'm talking about, check out the first video in this series where i describe this reflection replacement principle. Click the link below.
This is part 7 (the finale) in my series on designing making a pair of open baffle 2-way speakers to use as "surround" speakers in my listening room.
I've created a playlist with all of the videos: th-cam.com/play/PLQl9KPrpiIH-5l4QhxUYXHGhr-covK8n6.html
I like the rain ambience
I had to pee ;-)
You do beautiful work John…
Thank you…
What absolutely gorgeous speakers!!!!
John, you are an amazing man of many talents! Nicely done sir!
Beautiful speakers. I’ll have to go back and watch your full series. Inspiring work.
On OB most people expose the crossover and you hid it beautifully in the chamber. Great job!!😉
It's raining here while watching this video. For a few seconds I thought my roof was leaking, then I paused the video. Yup, my roof is leaking. Squirrels love making a hole in my roof and living in the attic.
Speakers turned out really nice and really cool to see you wire that crossover.
We have the April showers extending into May. At least the grass likes it.
Hello there John
Such beautiful wood work and a cool design very different look
Measurements look fantastic!
Those speakers look smart!
The rain sound is some relaxing ASMR stuff! xD
Beautiful parameters, beautiful look
Beautifully done, John. Thank you!
Love the crossover breadboard John
Nice craftsmanship well done thanks for sharing
Looks great, but cannot judge the sound. Have seen your woodworking before and you are one of the best. I would never built an open baffle speaker. The rear end of the speaker is not designed to be open. I’m more a fan of the Troels Graveson designed speakers. Recently built a speaker from soundblabs with good result. Next one will be from Troels one day I hope.
Love your stuff!!…Thanks.
Yeah, really good John,
version 2 could have the channels for the wires recessed with the CNC, see how light of passes you can make! great video awesome series.
No need to remake what works and no need to use the cnc to make it pretty when they can't be seen
love the woodwork. wish i could do that
I need a Society Deprivation Chamber !! 😂
When you say “a rung oil blend” exactly what is the blend. It looks really nice going on the wood.
The tung oil is blended with a polyurethane resin to make it dry faster and harder.
@@IBuildIt I know it is normally slow drying. Thanks
sending love and peace to everyone...
I think those metal plates may have an unexpected effect on the sound of the speakers. It will likely shield any outside electronic noise from any nearby devices from being added to the source signal. Good design!
Speaker level signals are extremely immune to interference, so shielding won't have any effect. Besides, the plates are on the bottom and these speakers are on the floor in my basement, with a concrete slab on top of miles of dirt below.
@@IBuildIt ...and what about the mole-people and their low frequency tunneling equipment?!?
@@johncnorrisThere's lizard people AND mole people?!
@@johncnorris
Elon's tunneling a subterranean super highway, right?
The Boring Company
Great video
Oh, and it sounds like you have a waterfall in your workshop 😊
Hope it’s not a busted pipe!😮😉 that would make it a Sensory Deprivation Room
Absolutely awesome. I've been waiting to see the outcome. One question, how did you determine the crossover component variables?
Did the addition of the capacitor to the woofer add an order to the crossover? I ended up removing an order from a crossover but you can imagine it's not as clean a procedure when you started with it 😅
I would have attenuated the tweeter somewhat. Most people like it better a little below than a little above the average level - sometimes called the Harman curve.
That curve results normally from the speakers playing in a room, and is not a target for speaker response. Speakers should be as flat as possible.
When you put flat speakers in a room, the combination of direct sound and reflected sound naturally creates that downward slope referred to as the Harman curve.
Great Art, how do they sound once integrated?
They sound really good. They add extra depth and dimension to the soundstage, making it even more 3D. And the effect isn't subtle or hard to hear.
The speakers turned out great! I'm a new woodworker - why did you apply the tung oil in three thin applications, rather than flooding it on? Thanks for all the great inspiration.
Marc the wood whisperer did a detailed video a month or so ago about applying oil finishes and why not to flood coat. Worth a watch
Very interested in how you wired up the crossover. Please slow down and narrate. It looks like you have a very straightforward method for what can get a bit confusing. Please share your approach.
Thank you.
Magnetic steel does not cause problems despite GR Research keep mentioning it
Ah, the wonderful world of audiophilery where iron core inductors are bad in a crossover, but iron core transformers are nothing short of awesome in a tube amp.
Where shielding with thick machined billet aluminum is essential for a solid state amp, but having the tubes jutting up out of the chassis on a tube amp perfectly fine.
Where a cable that costs $10,000 can make all the difference for a "resolving" system, while playing in a what amounts to an acoustic echo chamber.
@@IBuildIt
Indeed
And you're illustrating the key leverage points;
Simple, well designed dipole, well placed, ... in a well executed room.
The loudspeaker/room interface is essentially everything.
John, this was a piece of work, bravo. Art.
Much appreciated!
I do believe it's absolutely plausible that material's ferrous characteristics can affect the signal.
It only makes sense.
No paint or any laquer will hold after you oil the wood, it will have 100% adhesion problem and sooner or later peel. Eather oil and that it is or start with laquer and that it is.
Better use another Position between the inductors. Flat to standing in90° Position.
The inductors are spaced far enough to not make that matter.
@@MrSemperfidelis225definetly not. No 10cm.
👍
Why you haven't started your own line of speakers and started selling them yet I'll never know.
John here making art, me hear listening to shitty computer speakers from Walmart. 🔉
Paint those screws black!
Làm nhanh quá,no không hiểu
Hermosos Speaker 🔈 saludos desde chile 🇨🇱