Hi Gabby, I want to thank you for all the information that you carefully selected to pass for your viewers. I am currently planning to build my first hi-fi system. The journey is absolutely amazing and rewarding. I was thinking to buy the speaker kit from GR-research and build my own amp, dac, and streamer. I am learning so much from you, as I;m a student and i can't afford to pay thousands on each component.
Hi Gabby, thanks alot for this huge information. I'm working on a project and I'll like to partner with your company. I'll give you details of the kind of specification of speakers and sub woofers I'll be needing crossover for. Please can I get you email address or a phone contact so we could talk more .
Hello Gabby,Really love all your Hifi DIY videos.I have a pair of vintage La Scala's and would like to upgrade the crossovers.I know you keeping mentioning the part specs and ratings in these videos but is their a cmprehensive listing of parts used that goes alongwith with the schematic. Thanks.
Hi Gabby, nice video, quick question, I have a pair of Energy Cf-70 speakers that Im running through Yamaha Rx-v3900 im considering upgrading the crossover however not sure if its worth the expense or if i should just upgrade the speakers, your thoughts would be much appreciated. thanks
Hi Gabby, We love you speaker design, Thank You! - So exciting that you are documenting your build to help others , so few people show these kinds of examples to help others learn. - I really like you hidden wires in the crossovers - very good idea! - Thank you so much for the crossover schematic! , - It would be so helpful if you can give a list Please ? . . . - to show which parts you used , - ( example only), - C1 - .0uF Miflex copper - C2 - 2uF MBGO - L4 - 0.62mH copper/wax jensen , ..... ..... etc . . . - ( it's hard to read them all in video, thank you) ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- - here is a suggestion for you maybe to look into down the road - this is by another speaker builder , I can let you know who if you want to know latter ... - " After years of putting up with Duelund resistors and their terrible customer care (Brand new ones arrive already broken… (and they do) - sorry… they won’t refund or replace them) I finally had enough and found my holy grail. They are made by Path Audio of Poland and they are even better than the Duelunds, but that is only part of the exciting news.".
Here is the caps list a couple minor changes from the schematics 2 Miflex are 0.02 instead of 0.01 either is fine everything else is as per schematics To see the rest properly use a large screen computer pause the screen around 20:40 make sure you are watching in 4 k should be extremely clear hope that helps. C11 0.01 mfd Miflex Copper C7 + C4 0.02 mfd Miflex Copper C1 0.02 mfd Solen C5 10 mfd Solen (not critical as mostly bypassed by R1) C2 30 mfd MBGO C3,(C7 3x47) mfd Kemit C10 1.5 mfd Mundorf Mcap supreme C9 6.8 MFd Mundorf Mcap supreme L1 L2 L4 14 awg Goertz Copper Foil Inductors L3 Solen 10 awg 3.7mh I heard a lot about Path Audio resistors of Poland I will give them a try sometime. :)
I have a pair of Pioneer CS-99A with a very complicatedly designed crossover, however its bass is weak, while the mid to high are too hard. I also have another a pair Technics SB_X500A with a much simpler crossover, but its bass is much stronger than the CS-99A, and its mid to high are very much warm and comfort. Its bass is even stronger than the Pioneer HPM-100.
Help ! I made a 3 way first order network that I love, sounds great 👍 I can't find info on making it a second order, is there a formula ? Can I keep the first order and add caps and coils for a faster cut off ? My home made speakers are better than most store bought but nowhere near the level of yours, I used Jantzen 16ga.coils and Jantzen caps, so the xovers cost me around $80 each again better than most production, but not on the level of yours, just so you know what my budget is/ what type components I'll be using
Yes you can add to it to make it second order But I would measure before and after to make sure you are getting a better effect just be careful as often the phase will shift and May need to reverse the polarity on the second driver The frequency response around the cutoff frequency should not have a bump or null
Hi there, I'm relatively new to DIY speaker building. I'm wondering if you could explain the difference between cheaper crossover parts vs more expensive. Just a general idea is fine. I don't quite understand, if the values are the same on both the cheap and expensive components the outcome should be the same right? Bear in mind I'm not very knowledgeable about the electrical parts yet, I'm just trying to understand why some advocate for super expensive components while others say it doesn't matter? I could be missing some simple info that makes my question stupid, but if that's the case I'd still like to know haha. Is the percentage listed on the components that the differing factor for cheap vs expensive components? If that's the case, does matching cheap components that measure the same have the same outcome of expensive components? Thank you gab! Edit: I've just built cheap kits, no designing yet but maybe it could be fun at some point to try, but I don't really understand enough yet haha
Hi Daniel When sound passes through inductors Capacitors and Resistors it changes For inductors the thicker they are the less loss in signal despite having the same inductance thicker wire has a lower resistance so your woofer will have more bass as there is less loss. For capacitors sound is far better with film capacitors and the better the quality the better the sound despite having the same value Similar effect with resistors Hope that helps
With big capacitors the high end ones cost a fortune So by bypassing a medium grade capacitor with a small high end one one it improves the overall capacitor so you save money yet still get a great sound
Gabby - Just discovered your channel-- I'm very impressed with your speakers -- they are truly an work of art. I have several questions about your crossover schematic-- You said this is a second order design -- It appears to me that the high pass section is 3rd order -- if not, what is the function of the 10uf cap (C8)? I see you use bypass capacitors on the padding resistors at the input of both the high and band pass sections -- Is this to boost the output at the high end of each driver's range? Also, you are using bypass capacitors (.01uf) on many of the filter capacitors -- even on the capacitor in the low pass section, but you didn't use one on the 10uf cap previously mentioned (C8) in the high pass section-- why not? Also, you show a resistor (R4) in series with the filter capacitors in the low pass section-- what is the function of that resistor? You give a value of 330m-- does that mean milliohms? If so, I've never seen a resistor used in a passive network with that low of a value. Also, in the band pass section why did you place L1 in the circuit before L2 which would be a more conventional placement -- or does it make any difference where they are situated?
These are Kemet from Mouser great value for Large film caps Ideal for Woofer section when you need large values and don't want to mortgage the house :)
You should have done path audio resistors... Quite a big improvement over the ones you used... But good build. Also your scale on sweeps make it 5db vs 10. Your waterfall z axis also is large time domain should be smaller to show true scale
bro great vids you post and you know I follow ur channel , I just would like to say that do a light room treatment with good absorbing woods , if u want my help in accustics , mainly I set up and make ht systems for people , mostly I make amps and speakers , THERE is only one channel that is right about acoustics is acoustic fields and you can use any activated carbon if u want I can send u some pics of my work , I have around 400kgs of activated charcoal on the walls of my 2 channel listening room , my room is special because all the walls are covered by very high quality of pine that is instrument quality as I regularly go to wood lumber yard where fresh lumber is available , u can say I find 2,3 pieces that are special in a pile sometimes u find more depends on pattern its no big deal just read up on how instrument people choose wood , I wish I could afford mahogany
@@jarkkokinnunen9963 share ur email , please don't write it normally just avoid at the rate symbol and have space in between as well ,if there is link or email written the comment doesn't get posted for others and they can't see it
На СЧ и на НЧ лучше катушки мотать литцендратом , они лучше ведут себя на этих частотах . А на НЧ желательно сделать две катушки одна над другой и отдаляя или сдвигая катушки можно регулировать в больших пределах индуктивность самих катушек в довольно приличных пределах .
Baffle shape is like a toilet seat. Once u see it u can’t unsee it.
Very impressive work.
love it
Good work! To decrease size of an inductor we can use ferrite road.The size of a coil without a road is quite big.
Hi Gabby, I want to thank you for all the information that you carefully selected to pass for your viewers. I am currently planning to build my first hi-fi system. The journey is absolutely amazing and rewarding. I was thinking to buy the speaker kit from GR-research and build my own amp, dac, and streamer. I am learning so much from you, as I;m a student and i can't afford to pay thousands on each component.
Thank you it is a rewarding Journey Good luck and enjoy it
Hi Gabby, thanks alot for this huge information. I'm working on a project and I'll like to partner with your company. I'll give you details of the kind of specification of speakers and sub woofers I'll be needing crossover for. Please can I get you email address or a phone contact so we could talk more .
Hello Gabby,Really love all your Hifi DIY videos.I have a pair of vintage La Scala's and would like to upgrade the crossovers.I know you keeping mentioning the part specs and ratings in these videos but is their a cmprehensive listing of parts used that goes alongwith with the schematic. Thanks.
Hi Gabby, nice video, quick question, I have a pair of Energy Cf-70 speakers that Im running through Yamaha Rx-v3900 im considering upgrading the crossover however not sure if its worth the expense or if i should just upgrade the speakers, your thoughts would be much appreciated. thanks
Hi Gabby, We love you speaker design, Thank You!
- So exciting that you are documenting your build to help others , so few people show these kinds of examples to help others learn.
- I really like you hidden wires in the crossovers - very good idea!
- Thank you so much for the crossover schematic! ,
- It would be so helpful if you can give a list Please ? . . .
- to show which parts you used , - ( example only),
- C1 - .0uF Miflex copper
- C2 - 2uF MBGO
- L4 - 0.62mH copper/wax jensen , ..... ..... etc . . .
- ( it's hard to read them all in video, thank you)
----------------------------------------
----------------------------------------
- here is a suggestion for you maybe to look into down the road - this is by another speaker builder , I can let you know who if you want to know latter ...
- " After years of putting up with Duelund resistors and their terrible customer care (Brand new ones arrive already broken… (and they do) - sorry… they won’t refund or replace them) I finally had enough and found my holy grail. They are made by Path Audio of Poland and they are even better than the Duelunds, but that is only part of the exciting news.".
Here is the caps list a couple minor changes from the schematics 2 Miflex are 0.02 instead of 0.01 either is fine
everything else is as per schematics
To see the rest properly use a large screen computer pause the screen around 20:40 make sure you are watching in 4 k should be extremely clear
hope that helps.
C11 0.01 mfd Miflex Copper
C7 + C4 0.02 mfd Miflex Copper
C1 0.02 mfd Solen
C5 10 mfd Solen (not critical as mostly bypassed by R1)
C2 30 mfd MBGO
C3,(C7 3x47) mfd Kemit
C10 1.5 mfd Mundorf Mcap supreme
C9 6.8 MFd Mundorf Mcap supreme
L1 L2 L4 14 awg Goertz Copper Foil Inductors
L3 Solen 10 awg 3.7mh
I heard a lot about Path Audio resistors of Poland I will give them a try sometime.
:)
@@Gabster1
@@Gabster1
Молодец парень
Hi Gabby from India. Im struggling with a cross over for a Eminence PSD2002 Comp Driver. Any tips to pick up the dip from 15K to 20K.
I have a pair of Pioneer CS-99A with a very complicatedly designed crossover, however its bass is weak, while the mid to high are too hard. I also have another a pair Technics SB_X500A with a much simpler crossover, but its bass is much stronger than the CS-99A, and its mid to high are very much warm and comfort. Its bass is even stronger than the Pioneer HPM-100.
How long did they take to burn in?
I need 2 of these to buy please
Every speaker is different you have to build it and test it
Hi Gabby, could you please tell me what you used or recommend a test mic and software for your speaker building and testing
I and many others use Rew a free and excellent software
www.roomeqwizard.com/
and I use a dayton audio Umm6 calibrated Mic
Vituixcad is a free and powerful tool for crossover design after measuring with REW.
Help ! I made a 3 way first order network that I love, sounds great 👍 I can't find info on making it a second order, is there a formula ? Can I keep the first order and add caps and coils for a faster cut off ?
My home made speakers are better than most store bought but nowhere near the level of yours, I used Jantzen 16ga.coils and Jantzen caps, so the xovers cost me around $80 each again better than most production, but not on the level of yours, just so you know what my budget is/ what type components I'll be using
Yes you can add to it to make it second order
But I would measure before and after to make sure you are getting a better effect just be careful as often the phase will shift and May need to reverse the polarity on the second driver
The frequency response around the cutoff frequency should not have a bump or null
@Gabster if I know my the values of my existing inductors and caps how do I find the value for the caps and coils to make it a second order ? .
Which part is most and least important for a hi end speaker? The driver, the box or the crossover parts?
They are all important but if you want a order it would be Driver, Box, Crossover
Hi there, I'm relatively new to DIY speaker building. I'm wondering if you could explain the difference between cheaper crossover parts vs more expensive. Just a general idea is fine. I don't quite understand, if the values are the same on both the cheap and expensive components the outcome should be the same right? Bear in mind I'm not very knowledgeable about the electrical parts yet, I'm just trying to understand why some advocate for super expensive components while others say it doesn't matter? I could be missing some simple info that makes my question stupid, but if that's the case I'd still like to know haha. Is the percentage listed on the components that the differing factor for cheap vs expensive components? If that's the case, does matching cheap components that measure the same have the same outcome of expensive components? Thank you gab! Edit: I've just built cheap kits, no designing yet but maybe it could be fun at some point to try, but I don't really understand enough yet haha
Hi Daniel
When sound passes through inductors Capacitors and Resistors it changes
For inductors the thicker they are the less loss in signal despite having the same inductance thicker wire has a lower resistance so your woofer will have more bass as there is less loss.
For capacitors sound is far better with film capacitors and the better the quality the better the sound despite having the same value
Similar effect with resistors
Hope that helps
@Gabster1 thank you for your quick response, it does clarify things! It makes sense now!
Nice ❤ but the B&W mids is not a super high-end driver..🤖
Please let me know what model of microphone you used during the measurements?
amzn.to/3jhh4Eo
What are u using to find out the waves of sound
www.roomeqwizard.com/
Hi Gabby! Why do you bypass capacitors and resistors with additional miflex capacitors?
With big capacitors the high end ones cost a fortune So by bypassing a medium grade capacitor with a small high end one one it improves the overall capacitor so you save money yet still get a great sound
@@Gabster1 I understood perfectly, thank you 👍 Do you have a link to research on this phenomenon?
where did you get the big air coil> What value is it? Crossover points?
Solen.ca 3.7mh R4 eases the C6 effect and prevents the impedance from dipping to low
@@Gabster1 thanks-trying find on their site-what were you crossover points?
Hi, what is R4 doing on low woofer?
the caps in parallel with t4 is a Zobel Network. Plenty of info about it on the web.
Halo , Sir can i know where do you buy those good quality caps and speakers also ? Tq
Parts connection, Solen, Madisound, ....
Gabby - Just discovered your channel-- I'm very impressed with your speakers -- they are truly an work of art.
I have several questions about your crossover schematic-- You said this is a second order design -- It appears to me that the high pass section is 3rd order -- if not, what is the function of the 10uf cap (C8)? I see you use bypass capacitors on the padding resistors at the input of both the high and band pass sections -- Is this to boost the output at the high end of each driver's range? Also, you are using bypass capacitors (.01uf) on many of the filter capacitors -- even on the capacitor in the low pass section, but you didn't use one on the 10uf cap previously mentioned (C8) in the high pass section-- why not? Also, you show a resistor (R4) in series with the filter capacitors in the low pass section-- what is the function of that resistor? You give a value of 330m-- does that mean milliohms? If so, I've never seen a resistor used in a passive network with that low of a value. Also, in the band pass section why did you place L1 in the circuit before L2 which would be a more conventional placement -- or does it make any difference where they are situated?
What model 47uF capacitors did you use?
These are Kemet from Mouser great value for Large film caps Ideal for Woofer section when you need large values and don't want to mortgage the house :)
Why not build seperate speaker no crossover and utilise external EQ?
Is the big coil 4.0mh sir ?..its that pararell crosover or series croasover?
Hi Sam 3.7mh you can see the schematics here with all the info you need
th-cam.com/video/DMU3cxsseqE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=WM3s4c8ljOmXwNT3&t=418
@@Gabster1 thank you sir..
You should have done path audio resistors... Quite a big improvement over the ones you used... But good build. Also your scale on sweeps make it 5db vs 10. Your waterfall z axis also is large time domain should be smaller to show true scale
Thanks for the suggestion I never tried the path audio resistors before I will give them a try may be do a simple blind test setup.
@@Gabster1 would love to see it! They are a huge improvement quite shocking even over the quality ones you used
bro great vids you post and you know I follow ur channel , I just would like to say that do a light room treatment with good absorbing woods , if u want my help in accustics , mainly I set up and make ht systems for people , mostly I make amps and speakers , THERE is only one channel that is right about acoustics is acoustic fields and you can use any activated carbon if u want I can send u some pics of my work , I have around 400kgs of activated charcoal on the walls of my 2 channel listening room , my room is special because all the walls are covered by very high quality of pine that is instrument quality as I regularly go to wood lumber yard where fresh lumber is available , u can say I find 2,3 pieces that are special in a pile sometimes u find more depends on pattern its no big deal just read up on how instrument people choose wood , I wish I could afford mahogany
Any pictures of that room? Sounds interesting
@@jarkkokinnunen9963 share ur email , please don't write it normally just avoid at the rate symbol and have space in between as well ,if there is link or email written the comment doesn't get posted for others and they can't see it
@@IDontExist14 Ill edit my email out after you have sent the photo, thanks!
@@jarkkokinnunen9963 brother where to send the pic I need an email to send it to .if u can email me and I will reply
@@jarkkokinnunen9963 I tried to send them , but u don't wanna give me a simple email address , then fine ur loss not mine
Solder sucks. Crimp that post. And plumber tape to separate that non copper nut from touching copper post.
На СЧ и на НЧ лучше катушки мотать литцендратом , они лучше ведут себя на этих частотах . А на НЧ желательно сделать две катушки одна над другой и отдаляя или сдвигая катушки можно регулировать в больших пределах индуктивность самих катушек в довольно приличных пределах .