After over 50 years in IT, much of it in hardware I will say your soldering and your accompanying dialogue including the resisters can take the heat better than the caps, and I'll clean that up after on one occasion, was the best I have seen on TH-cam. Such a very pleasant change after the cowboys with their never ever cleaned iron tips and failing to use a bit of solder on the iron to get started and not bothering to let it heat up, then creating dry joints by various means such as lack of heat or solder. or the opposite with solder all over the place in globules. Some even using those funny bent wire resistance thingies to solder in places that damage anything near the part to be soldered, I saw one youtuber "fixing" components on a densely populated SMT area of board with one the other day and needing to realign many components near the one he thought he was targeting. Thank you for showing that there are real solder capable people on youtube.
I never use metal screws to install crossovers. I drill the screw holes through four boards -- two crossover boards and two mounting boards. I countersink the holes in a pair of bards. I stuff 1/4" diameter nylon flathead screws (1" to 2" long depending on what I need) through the holes and hold the screws in place with nylon nuts. Effectively I make a mounting board with studs sticking out. Once I have the mounting boards made I bond them to the inside of the box. When it comes time to install the crossovers I slide them over the the nylon studs/screws, add some nylon washers and nuts as needed to hold the whole thing in place. I don't need to worry about affecting the impedance of the coils. Or I can assemble the crossovers to the studs and mounting board, and bond the whole assembly to the inside of the box. In either case it's easy to remove the crossover if I ever need to. I've done this for years, and even come back 30 years later, and everything looks brand new. This works for circuit boards or point-to-point boards like the ones Danny makes here.
Thank you thank you thank you.You have no idea how addicting your channel is.You thought me so much about speaker building.Years sgo I got in touch with you about your kit and you were so helpful.Thank you for everything.I really appreciate you.
That video helped me alot on my first crossover. I was so intimidated and know it's like tie-in my shoes. Thanks Danny I learned a lot of watching your videos and I appreciate you taking your time teaching us newbies
This is exactly what was needed. The video answers so many questions that I have had. I appreciate that you have done the trial and error and are willing to share this refined procedure.
That is actually a special desk. It once belonged to Gary Dodd. Some of the best sounding and most beautiful tube amps and pre-amps ever made were built on that desk, and a few Honda racing engines. :-)
It's fun to see in this video that you are "in your element" and it shows. Thanks for showing us that it's easy once you see it done! I hope that this jump-starts a ton of sales. Because, like they say..."the first one is always free" 😆
Thanks for this video Bro, top man! I paid a small amount for a course in crossover design but it didn't really cover the building mainly the technical, it taught me a lot but not so much how to put these things together from a schematic, thanks again for this, I can buy my parts now and get on with it!
I was wondering where you found that course. I just spent a month watching u tube videos and I finally figured out a crossover for my design but I would like to know more
This is and awesome video !!! Thank you for educating us on build these crossovers. This is definitely a project that will have me doing it just because.. if you want to do a 2.5 way the same way that Polk audio does it for there monitor 70 series 2s , how would you do that ? that's where I'm confused at . Is there a way you can do a video please on how to make a crossover for a 2.5 way ? Great videos keep them going .👍
Hi, have some "Rauna Ymer" speakers made of concrete from the 80s (Sweden - Bo Hansson) where I want to update the crossover and maybe even get better sound (although i love them), and the question is when you want to use a mix of 2 capacitors in parallel (economical + space) where one is of good quality and the smallest percentage is of superior quality, how much % should the smallest contribute to for optimal sound/ price effect. Ex. tot 10uF where one is at 8.2 and the best at 1.8uF? Thinking of using Jantzen Cross Cap or Jantzen Standard Z-cap as the large and Jantzen Superior Z-Cap as the smallest? Has education in electronics, so it help's
Great video, as usually. But this time MUCH better. You got yourself a new video camera! Really good. Clarity and focus! Good lighting and depth. Keep up the good work. It does pay of in the end.👍
@@dannyrichie9743 Neh! We know you got some good stuff and why not a camera upgrade! 😉 feel no pressure 😀. In this shoot you looked like you were about to giggle…. Ron making faces? 👍
I am waiting for my kit and these videos are awesome. I like that you painted over the DeraTex. The blue looks nice. I did go for the fancy caps so one less thing to solder lol. Is there enough room for T-nuts? I have had problems with mdf stripping the screw holes. I think I will try to find someone with a router near me to round over the sides on front baffle. I like that look. Thanks Danny for doing this. The DIY 16 strand speaker cables will be next.
The only problem: if I want change something in the future, say pad the tweeter down I'll be screwed with the 'lead twister' approach. Soldering the leads to tag strip connector the way Troels does his crossovers would be better but more costly.
@@DougMen1 All it takes is to add two resistors, termination impedance will not change much. It's called an L pad, one resistor in series, one in parallel.
... or use a strand of thin sacrificial wire, hold the leads together and tightly wrap the wire around to keep them in place. If you're making amends, wick/desoldering gun, cut through the wrap and everything pulls apart nicely.
Could you show the network step by step with what you are doing? In the video you flash the paper up from time to time and then set it off screen and move ahead too fast. If you could pause and explain how the paper correlates to the parts, that would be helpful as well.
Hey Danny, can I convince you into making a video building the crossover for the svs ultra center? I just received your kit I'm anxious to get it started but honestly I'm nervous. I would feel so much more confident doing this DIY project if I could follow along with your video. because man I would hate to screw it up & if this goes well i'm onto my ultra towers next. Thanks!!
Hey Greg. Surely you have gotten your kit in the ultra center? I just got one and even after Danny trying to talk me through it on the phone I just don’t get it. Keeps telling me to follow the sheet but it’s all Greek to me. Can you help me? Thanks
@@randymelton1880 Hey Randy, believe it or not I received my kit probably 3 months ago, I too found it daunting & I did reachout to Danny a couple of times & eventually I put it on hold but thank God I had another center speaker. I picked back up with it last weekend & it finally clicked. Basically everything on the right side of that schematic goes to the speakers left side goes to the terminals. If you need a hand text me back your # & I'll see if I can walk you through it.
I was wondering when you add a 1 uf sono cap is that added into the value? So if you used a 6.8 uf cap and a 1 uf sona would that be the same as using a 7.8 uf cap?
Looks good. As you have seperate filters for bass and tweeter, do you think there'd be any benefit by putting crossover in a box close to amp and bi-wiring to loudspeaker?
@@DougMen1 Quite to the contrary in my experience, thinner solid core pure silver in cotton goes well with tweeters, while thicker silver plated stranded copper in PTFE suits low-mid drivers better. Simply low capacitance and inductance work miracles for HF, while low resistance is essential for LMF. Both tightly twisted and wrapped in layers, of course.
@@dannyrichie9743 About 10R non-inductive in series with 47n and parallel to speaker terminals usually does away with RF at speakers end, if living next to a radio broadcaster.
Can I go ahead and connect the wires that go to the drivers and input connectors at the same time as the crossover parts and do all the twisting of wires and soldering at the same time?
You would have to ensure proper length of the speaker wire after the cross over assembly. The only way to do that is to physically place the assemble cross over into the box. That's why it's in two steps. If the wires were pre measured and there were no flaws in the assembly you could. But that wouldn't be diy, and would cost more.
I am new to building and watched your videos on building the encore speakers and had to take the cross overs out and redo the connections on the inductors because I missed or you never showed you had to get the red coating off the ends of the inductors for it to make a proper connection and work. That may be very basic but I didn't know. They sound great now and I'm going to get a set of these. here you didn't say anything about the red coating either and that is pretty important for us newbies.
This was only a problem when I cleaned Erse out on inductors, and the wire they use to wind them and had to order inductors from Solen. There coils are just cut, not cut and Tinned. The coils that come with these are already cut and Tinned. So no worries with these.
Please offer 3Dprinted crossover mounting board files. You don't need a 3D printer to offer this service. Basic measurements are all that is required. Thank you.
wouldn't it be interesting to have a video where you see the frequency response at the listening point in a well-treated environment? because otherwise having an excellent frequency response of the only speaker I don't think it will be of much use, don't you think?
@@dannyrichie9743 what I meant is how good the frequency response can remain in a properly treated environment. Because if the final frequency response becomes poor, what is the point of pursuing an excellent frequency response of the speaker alone? I don't think showing how the frequency response becomes in the room is a waste of time or useless. I think it can be very useful
@@wallalo It then becomes a measurement of the room and not really a measurement of the speaker. I used to do it all the time to help correlate the speaker measurement and the room measurement and to tweak the room.
@@dannyrichie9743 sorry but I did not understand, have you already made a video or written something somewhere where you can see the frequency response in the environment of some of your speakers?
Hello Mr. Danny. 👋Mr. Danny this green resistors Dayton Audio made? Green Dayton Audio good resistor. And about capacitors.. I know, you like Sonic caps, but You forget about two ✌️ very important nuances. First - The larger the capacitance of the capacitor, the lower the speed of the signal.Second - all capacitors have one big flaw - extremely thin lead wires. Therefore no need use one capacitor, this big mistake!For perfect result, need use big quantity little capacitors and connected all capacitors in one parallel. A big quantity small capacitors pass through the signal maximal quickly. Therefore, If you need one capacitor, for example, which have price 20$.Much better use 7-9-11 capacitors, which have low price. Rubycon MPB Polypropylene green capacitors very good capacitors and have low price(don't forget that Rubycon legendary Japan capacitors company),next choice - JB JPX Supreme red capacitors very good caps, and last choice Dayton Audio PMPC capacitors good caps, which have very low price. If you are using for crossover 9-11 Rubycon polypropylene capacitors or JB JPX Supreme caps, maybe Dayton Audio PMPC caps and connected all capacitors in one parallel, this method give you perfect results, much better than one capacitor for 20-22$.Same resistors, need connected big quantity in one parallel.
@@DougMen1 Its not going to be phase coherent that way. Many speakers are not. I have owned two different first order, 2 way speakers, and the imaging and depth just sounded more realistic.
Ties are more secure and they also give a more clean look to the board, you need to be careful using hot glue, I have melted the covering on some caps with hot glue, it did not effect the caps other than it made them look like crap and just using hot glue or any glue makes the crossover look messy (just my opinion), even though the crossovers are not seen, I personally would still like them to look professionally built. Having said all that, you can use glue if you want too, there is nothing really wrong with glue providing that you use something that won't come loose over time, it comes down to personal preference.
It’s nice to know you’re giving away a loss leader for beginners entry level. Because we all know your loss leaders will sound and are of higher quality than most other manufacturers at several hundred dollars more asking price.
![[Full] 4 ต่อ 4 Celebrity EP.920 | 3 พ.ย. 67 | one31](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KwiW2M_kAg4/mqdefault.jpg)
After over 50 years in IT, much of it in hardware I will say your soldering and your accompanying dialogue including the resisters can take the heat better than the caps, and I'll clean that up after on one occasion, was the best I have seen on TH-cam.
Such a very pleasant change after the cowboys with their never ever cleaned iron tips and failing to use a bit of solder on the iron to get started and not bothering to let it heat up, then creating dry joints by various means such as lack of heat or solder. or the opposite with solder all over the place in globules. Some even using those funny bent wire resistance thingies to solder in places that damage anything near the part to be soldered, I saw one youtuber "fixing" components on a densely populated SMT area of board with one the other day and needing to realign many components near the one he thought he was targeting. Thank you for showing that there are real solder capable people on youtube.
@jimspc07 Thanks for your insights as well. Between you and Danny I've learned a lot.
Thanks Danny for sharing,for someone who has done this for many years, you still enjoy doing what you do,it shows just love watching your videos
This video helps the less confident be more confident in wanting to be able think about building a speaker. Thank you
I loved the little detail with the screw in the middle of the coil and the inductance slight rise...
I never use metal screws to install crossovers. I drill the screw holes through four boards -- two crossover boards and two mounting boards. I countersink the holes in a pair of bards. I stuff 1/4" diameter nylon flathead screws (1" to 2" long depending on what I need) through the holes and hold the screws in place with nylon nuts. Effectively I make a mounting board with studs sticking out.
Once I have the mounting boards made I bond them to the inside of the box. When it comes time to install the crossovers I slide them over the the nylon studs/screws, add some nylon washers and nuts as needed to hold the whole thing in place. I don't need to worry about affecting the impedance of the coils. Or I can assemble the crossovers to the studs and mounting board, and bond the whole assembly to the inside of the box. In either case it's easy to remove the crossover if I ever need to.
I've done this for years, and even come back 30 years later, and everything looks brand new. This works for circuit boards or point-to-point boards like the ones Danny makes here.
Thank you thank you thank you.You have no idea how addicting your channel is.You thought me so much about speaker building.Years sgo I got in touch with you about your kit and you were so helpful.Thank you for everything.I really appreciate you.
That video helped me alot on my first crossover. I was so intimidated and know it's like tie-in my shoes. Thanks Danny I learned a lot of watching your videos and I appreciate you taking your time teaching us newbies
Look at those pretty red coils!😊
Just got a mini kit for Christmas. Looking forward to assembling it!
This is exactly what was needed. The video answers so many questions that I have had. I appreciate that you have done the trial and error and are willing to share this refined procedure.
a fantastic demonstration of how to build a crossover
Danny.. That steady hand on the huge soldering gun is impressive without your elbow or forearm being supported by the work bench..
Nothing to it. I do it all the time.
Danny. Damn you. Now I’ve got to spend my allowance again!!!
a topdown camera shot would rock ;)
Loving the worked patina of your workbench!
That is actually a special desk. It once belonged to Gary Dodd. Some of the best sounding and most beautiful tube amps and pre-amps ever made were built on that desk, and a few Honda racing engines. :-)
@@dannyrichie9743 History like that is precious, thanks for reaching out back to me.
That's it really think you are a crossover guru!! wish I know how to do those
Love this channel. I just want some major reviewer to check these out and compare them to $1000+ speakers to see how they fare.
They will beat up on most of them pretty badly.
It's fun to see in this video that you are "in your element" and it shows. Thanks for showing us that it's easy once you see it done!
I hope that this jump-starts a ton of sales. Because, like they say..."the first one is always free" 😆
👊turn this sideways and work a nice twisting motion on your👃
Hey! Everybody!
Well done video. Thanks!
Hmm very interesting. Thanks.
Fantastic video Danny, thank you so much for making it look easy!
Great video - thank you
I PCB design for that would look amazing I bet that
Love the videos Danny!
This was a genius idea! You filled that void for those of us who have never done anything like this. I'll be getting one version soon. thanks
Thanks for this video Bro, top man! I paid a small amount for a course in crossover design but it didn't really cover the building mainly the technical, it taught me a lot but not so much how to put these things together from a schematic, thanks again for this, I can buy my parts now and get on with it!
I was wondering where you found that course. I just spent a month watching u tube videos and I finally figured out a crossover for my design but I would like to know more
This is and awesome video !!! Thank you for educating us on build these crossovers. This is definitely a project that will have me doing it just because.. if you want to do a 2.5 way the same way that Polk audio does it for there monitor 70 series 2s , how would you do that ? that's where I'm confused at . Is there a way you can do a video please on how to make a crossover for a 2.5 way ? Great videos keep them going .👍
Very useful !
"Step by step" ... excellent demonstration !
Informative and Helpful, Thanks. Although I have to say, soldering in shorts seems concerning.
If I would have dropped a little solder on my leg it would not have been the first time. I am pretty good with it though. That vary rarely happens.
Hi, have some "Rauna Ymer" speakers made of concrete from the 80s (Sweden - Bo Hansson) where I want to update the crossover and maybe even get better sound (although i love them), and the question is when you want to use a mix of 2 capacitors in parallel (economical + space) where one is of good quality and the smallest percentage is of superior quality, how much % should the smallest contribute to for optimal sound/ price effect. Ex. tot 10uF where one is at 8.2 and the best at 1.8uF? Thinking of using Jantzen Cross Cap or Jantzen Standard Z-cap as the large and Jantzen Superior Z-Cap as the smallest? Has education in electronics, so it help's
Great video, as usually. But this time MUCH better. You got yourself a new video camera! Really good. Clarity and focus! Good lighting and depth. Keep up the good work. It does pay of in the end.👍
All because Ron at New Record Day came over and helped film it.
@@dannyrichie9743 Neh! We know you got some good stuff and why not a camera upgrade! 😉 feel no pressure 😀. In this shoot you looked like you were about to giggle…. Ron making faces? 👍
Great job Sensei!
I’m pretty sure I already know the answer, but... does solder interfere in anyway with the signal path?
You forgot to say 'Asking for a friend . . .'
So long as you give the leads a good, proper twist before soldering, it wont affect the sound quality.
Let the hair flow Danny
I am waiting for my kit and these videos are awesome. I like that you painted over the DeraTex. The blue looks nice. I did go for the fancy caps so one less thing to solder lol. Is there enough room for T-nuts? I have had problems with mdf stripping the screw holes. I think I will try to find someone with a router near me to round over the sides on front baffle. I like that look. Thanks Danny for doing this. The DIY 16 strand speaker cables will be next.
The screws that come with it are fine for the MDF. No stripping issues at all.
Hi Danny, great chanel. Can I purchase your kits in the UK or would it be to expensive to ship to the UK.
We ship kits there all the time. This one would be a little pricey due to the weight of the flat pack.
very nice
Another one of my stupid questions. Can you secure parts to board w/ hot glue?
can this speaker be used for a small room as a traditional bookshelf speaker--2 channel listening (i.e., not desktop)?
Danny, why aren't brass screws the choice over steel? I mean, this is a premium product.
How do you mount crossover board to speaker cabinet? Should not you make holes before assembling cabinet?
With a silver marker, I mark the spots for the screws that are used to hold it down.
The only problem: if I want change something in the future, say pad the tweeter down I'll be screwed with the 'lead twister' approach. Soldering the leads to tag strip connector the way Troels does his crossovers would be better but more costly.
I won’t twist ‘em too tight so you could still untwist after desoldering if you plan to make changes..
Actually those tag strips degrade the signal quality quite a bit. I don't recommend them.
@@DougMen1 All it takes is to add two resistors, termination impedance will not change much. It's called an L pad, one resistor in series, one in parallel.
... or use a strand of thin sacrificial wire, hold the leads together and tightly wrap the wire around to keep them in place. If you're making amends, wick/desoldering gun, cut through the wrap and everything pulls apart nicely.
Audition at _Krazy Danny's Speaker Emporium™_
Prices so low you'll think he lost his mind!®
Kind of like "Sofa King" They're prices are Sofa King Low!
Could you show the network step by step with what you are doing? In the video you flash the paper up from time to time and then set it off screen and move ahead too fast. If you could pause and explain how the paper correlates to the parts, that would be helpful as well.
Yeah Danny how about slowing down some. You forget you’re an expert and done a million but for me and many of us this is our FIRST.
Danny, is there any point in using a damping compound like blutak?
What happen to the diagram, schematic, and purchase list ?……its gone from your website ?
Hey Danny, can I convince you into making a video building the crossover for the svs ultra center? I just received your kit I'm anxious to get it started but honestly I'm nervous. I would feel so much more confident doing this DIY project if I could follow along with your video. because man I would hate to screw it up & if this goes well i'm onto my ultra towers next. Thanks!!
I don't have any of those speakers in house any more.
Hey Greg. Surely you have gotten your kit in the ultra center? I just got one and even after Danny trying to talk me through it on the phone I just don’t get it. Keeps telling me to follow the sheet but it’s all Greek to me. Can you help me? Thanks
@@randymelton1880 Hey Randy, believe it or not I received my kit probably 3 months ago, I too found it daunting & I did reachout to Danny a couple of times & eventually I put it on hold but thank God I had another center speaker. I picked back up with it last weekend & it finally clicked. Basically everything on the right side of that schematic goes to the speakers left side goes to the terminals. If you need a hand text me back your # & I'll see if I can walk you through it.
How would these work as near field, home studio monitors?
That's what these are for I'm pretty sure so probably pretty nice like he's been touting
I was wondering when you add a 1 uf sono cap is that added into the value? So if you used a 6.8 uf cap and a 1 uf sona would that be the same as using a 7.8 uf cap?
That was a .1 uF value.
@dannyrichie9743 that's a nice technique
Looks good.
As you have seperate filters for bass and tweeter, do you think there'd be any benefit by putting crossover in a box close to amp and bi-wiring to loudspeaker?
That would actually be a bad idea. That doubles the speaker cable runs and with budget cables it will increase the RF noise levels.
@@DougMen1 Quite to the contrary in my experience, thinner solid core pure silver in cotton goes well with tweeters, while thicker silver plated stranded copper in PTFE suits low-mid drivers better. Simply low capacitance and inductance work miracles for HF, while low resistance is essential for LMF. Both tightly twisted and wrapped in layers, of course.
@@dannyrichie9743 About 10R non-inductive in series with 47n and parallel to speaker terminals usually does away with RF at speakers end, if living next to a radio broadcaster.
Can you tell me what gauge you use for the tweeter and woofer coils in a 2-way, thanks.
I think these were 16 gauge.
Does capacitor direction matter?
I have the same question. And how to tell + from -
Can I go ahead and connect the wires that go to the drivers and input connectors at the same time as the crossover parts and do all the twisting of wires and soldering at the same time?
You would have to ensure proper length of the speaker wire after the cross over assembly. The only way to do that is to physically place the assemble cross over into the box. That's why it's in two steps. If the wires were pre measured and there were no flaws in the assembly you could. But that wouldn't be diy, and would cost more.
I just ordered mine, what's the wattage rating and actually frequency response?
The frequency response is shown in this video and is on our website. They don't get wattage ratings.
Just so you know, the URL in the description seems to be incorrect.
I'll see if we can fix that.
I am new to building and watched your videos on building the encore speakers and had to take the cross overs out and redo the connections on the inductors because I missed or you never showed you had to get the red coating off the ends of the inductors for it to make a proper connection and work. That may be very basic but I didn't know. They sound great now and I'm going to get a set of these. here you didn't say anything about the red coating either and that is pretty important for us newbies.
This was only a problem when I cleaned Erse out on inductors, and the wire they use to wind them and had to order inductors from Solen. There coils are just cut, not cut and Tinned. The coils that come with these are already cut and Tinned. So no worries with these.
Those inductors have any polarity?
No.
Please offer 3Dprinted crossover mounting board files. You don't need a 3D printer to offer this service. Basic measurements are all that is required. Thank you.
wouldn't it be interesting to have a video where you see the frequency response at the listening point in a well-treated environment? because otherwise having an excellent frequency response of the only speaker I don't think it will be of much use, don't you think?
No, it is actually the other way around. An in room response is useless. It is only specific to one room only.
@@dannyrichie9743 what I meant is how good the frequency response can remain in a properly treated environment. Because if the final frequency response becomes poor, what is the point of pursuing an excellent frequency response of the speaker alone?
I don't think showing how the frequency response becomes in the room is a waste of time or useless. I think it can be very useful
@@wallalo It then becomes a measurement of the room and not really a measurement of the speaker. I used to do it all the time to help correlate the speaker measurement and the room measurement and to tweak the room.
@@dannyrichie9743 sorry but I did not understand, have you already made a video or written something somewhere where you can see the frequency response in the environment of some of your speakers?
@@wallalo No, I shoot all of the speaker measurements using a gated time window. So there are zero room related contributions to the response.
Looks awesome and I bet it sounds awesome for the price Danny. :)
👉🏾👃
At 9:35 you say “the same with the pools.” What are you referring to as a “pool.”?
I think I meant coils.
hi danny to tide the rsistor with plastic tides could be a problem with the temperatur at the resistor ?
DM is correct. They will never have to dissipate much heat and never will get very hot.
Just wondering why not hot glue everything down?
You can.
Would there be a benefit to fastening the network board with brass screws?
No, the screws are far enough away from the inductors for it to matter.
What is the meaning of DIY??
Do it yourself.
Is that a Luger model 8 soldering gun:)
WL Link model LG400
Do you ship to the UK?
All the time.
Hello Mr. Danny. 👋Mr. Danny this green resistors Dayton Audio made? Green Dayton Audio good resistor. And about capacitors.. I know, you like Sonic caps, but You forget about two ✌️ very important nuances. First - The larger the capacitance of the capacitor, the lower the speed of the signal.Second - all capacitors have one big flaw - extremely thin lead wires. Therefore no need use one capacitor, this big mistake!For perfect result, need use big quantity little capacitors and connected all capacitors in one parallel. A big quantity small capacitors pass through the signal maximal quickly. Therefore, If you need one capacitor, for example, which have price 20$.Much better use 7-9-11 capacitors, which have low price. Rubycon MPB Polypropylene green capacitors very good capacitors and have low price(don't forget that Rubycon legendary Japan capacitors company),next choice - JB JPX Supreme red capacitors very good caps, and last choice Dayton Audio PMPC capacitors good caps, which have very low price. If you are using for crossover 9-11 Rubycon polypropylene capacitors or JB JPX Supreme caps, maybe Dayton Audio PMPC caps and connected all capacitors in one parallel, this method give you perfect results, much better than one capacitor for 20-22$.Same resistors, need connected big quantity in one parallel.
danny is a god
Anybody got the “brown nose” emoji? Send it to this guy please.
Why no first order crossovers?
Those drivers won't really work with a first order filter.
@@DougMen1 That woofer filter is actually creating a bit of a second order slope.
@@DougMen1 Its not going to be phase coherent that way. Many speakers are not. I have owned two different first order, 2 way speakers, and the imaging and depth just sounded more realistic.
What veneer is that?
The oak
These are no longer available.
Correct. They sold out very quickly.
Your quality of build is far to high , this is truly a lost leader. I want one to put in my empty nahagony OPERA 1 cabinets. Thanks
why not use hot glue instead of ties? or any glue?
Ties are more secure and they also give a more clean look to the board, you need to be careful using hot glue, I have melted the covering on some caps with hot glue, it did not effect the caps other than it made them look like crap and just using hot glue or any glue makes the crossover look messy (just my opinion), even though the crossovers are not seen, I personally would still like them to look professionally built.
Having said all that, you can use glue if you want too, there is nothing really wrong with glue providing that you use something that won't come loose over time, it comes down to personal preference.
If you are careful, hot glue can be used too.
Would silicone caulking between the components and the board help in further reducing vibrations/resonances?
@@matthiasmartin1975 A little and very little. If you use Silicon then let it dry for a few days before you install it.
@@dannyrichie9743 ah, I understand, because the fumes are often corrosive, right? The vinegar smell gives it away.
The link doesn't work for me.
Thanks, try again please.
I’ve got a real challenge for you. Why don’t you play the game twister while you’re twisting the parts together!
Get a life …
@@welshrarebit9238
Ahhh!! “Don’t hate the player!”
Do you make/sell 3 way charged crosovers for jbl 4350? If yes how much do you want for them?
It’s nice to know you’re giving away a loss leader for beginners entry level.
Because we all know your loss leaders will sound and are of higher quality than most other manufacturers at several hundred dollars more asking price.