I squeege my print onto a sheet of Plexiglas ( making sure there are no bubbles) and let it dry at room temp. When Its dry it comes off very easily. Prints dry flat and gloss is perfect every time. The plexiglass must be spotless though. Do not try using actual glass - you will never get the print off! (personal experience). Great stuff man!
I use plexiglass at carbon double transfer process in exact same way as you've described. I never used it for silver-gelatin prints due to my ferrotype dryer, but this tip is really helpful. THank you!
Thanks for the video and let me give you advice. Do it 4:12 under water , I mean placing prints on stainless sheet, and the result will be much better, without any air bubbles
Great work!!!! Keep it up; I always enjoy looking at your “shows”; may God bless you, keep you, guide you and keep you, solidly, “on your own way”...never listen to your critics...be your own critic...
Very nice work. Thanks! I'm setting up a darkroom at home ... recently acquired a stockpile of equipment for free from someone that switched to digital. I have two print dryers as well, the kind with canvas like you have and some ferrotype plates too, all seem very smooth and mirror like too ... I'm glad you showed us that step because I read what they do but couldn't find any example of it in practice. Thanks again.
Enjoyed watching this video again. And after six months practicing with my 35mm enlarger, I am without words after reading your 75 seconds exposure ..and 20 seconds dodging. With a light negative one need longer exposure but 75 seconds..?? One day master, one day, I will understand 🤪😂
Selenium will increase D-max on baryt prints, but it'll also make the print archival! And with brown printing selenium can be used to fix the print, after the first hypo fix.
This looks awesome! What dilution did you use for the selenium? How long did you develop in the bleach, sepia and selenium? I love the look your print has. Thanks!
Dear Ian, although my dryer has a thermometer switch, usually dryers do not have them. Start with cold dryer or cooled down dryer. Always start with cooler side. I dry with temperatures from 50C - 200C, but always start with cooler side. And don't just leave it in, once it is dried. If leaving it too long, it will cause curling.
Here's detailed explanation: www.rdrop.com/users/tedpet/ferrot.htm In short, you dry the print with heat while pressed emulsion down onto very smooth and clean metal plate.
Hi Borut, nice to see that you are finishing your prints also high gloss. Im experimenting myself with this technique recently.. But I was wondering do you presoake your FB paper in something before you put it on the glazing plate? How about the glazing plate itself? I read online that this can be treated as well.. Every time I try it I end up with an image which is stuck to the glazing plate and I have to rip it off! Any suggestions are welcome since i dont know what im doing wrong!? Keep up the great content! Best, max
The plate needs to be clean, the print needs to be properly fixed and washed. If you have trouble with sticking prints, try letting the prints air dry first, then re-soak them in photoflo (usual dilution) for five or ten minutes before sqeegeeing them on the plate. The plate shouldn't be treated with anything, it should be perfectly clean and have a mirror like polish, clean with liquid soap and water only, make sure it is thoroughly rinsed. Water should run off freely, if water is sticking to the surface in beads, it is not clean.
Hi, from Sydney Australia, your videos are awsome, i have a question for you.... ive tried glossing my fibre base prints....lots of different temperatures and times. i can get the gloss look but they always stick to the metal plate... i clean it thoroughly before . but it always sticks and the print gets ruined. i really want to get this right, iam using foma paper. i really need your help please. steve. thanks for sharing your videos, your paper seems to come off the plate very easily.
Great work! By the way after making the print glossy do you have to make it flat under a press or something? Mine are smoothly curled and I have some problems to make them really flat after the glossy part... Thank you for your topshit tricks !
I will make a video about it. Either you dry it on ferrotyping mashin or you tape it with this tape that carpenters use. You know the glue that when dry is not sticky but when it's wet it becomes sticky. The kind of glue that is on a post stamps. It's special kind of tape used by carpenters, check their store.
Thank you for answering, I use a ferrotyping machine and have some great results and really glossy prints, but the prints curl a little after going out the machine and and I don't have the same results I have when I use the second type of drying I think you're talking about ( in France we call it Kraft paper, or "papier gommé"). Thanks, a video about this will be a huge help for many of us!
Borut Peterlin hi, thank you! What about the machine setting that you used to make the print flat and glossy? I have one of this machine, but never succeed!
THe most important condition is that the surface is clean and without scratches. It is pretty simple from there on. So if you never succeed then probably because of that cause.
I squeege my print onto a sheet of Plexiglas ( making sure there are no bubbles) and let it dry at room temp. When Its dry it comes off very easily. Prints dry flat and gloss is perfect every time. The plexiglass must be spotless though. Do not try using actual glass - you will never get the print off! (personal experience). Great stuff man!
I use plexiglass at carbon double transfer process in exact same way as you've described. I never used it for silver-gelatin prints due to my ferrotype dryer, but this tip is really helpful. THank you!
Beautiful video and result. And great anecdote at the end!
Thanks for the video and let me give you advice. Do it 4:12 under water , I mean placing prints on stainless sheet, and the result will be much better, without any air bubbles
Daaamn, you produced a perfect mirror. That high gloss print dried perfectly. Good job!
Great work!!!! Keep it up; I always enjoy looking at your “shows”; may God bless you, keep you, guide you and keep you, solidly, “on your own way”...never listen to your critics...be your own critic...
Thanks for the metaphor at the end. I couldnt agree more. Great work
Very nice work. Thanks! I'm setting up a darkroom at home ... recently acquired a stockpile of equipment for free from someone that switched to digital. I have two print dryers as well, the kind with canvas like you have and some ferrotype plates too, all seem very smooth and mirror like too ... I'm glad you showed us that step because I read what they do but couldn't find any example of it in practice. Thanks again.
Enjoyed watching this video again. And after six months practicing with my 35mm enlarger, I am without words after reading your 75 seconds exposure ..and 20 seconds dodging. With a light negative one need longer exposure but 75 seconds..?? One day master, one day, I will understand 🤪😂
Oh, my longest exposure was about 7 hours. It was a detail from a 35 mm film negative, done on a weak old enlarger. Anything goes...
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography top shit works 👍🏻👍🏻🤣🤣
That sink really clean
Love the archer / monk story!
Selenium will increase D-max on baryt prints, but it'll also make the print archival! And with brown printing selenium can be used to fix the print, after the first hypo fix.
good guy, good energy, good attitude, good luck.
So what temperature is correct?
it's a visual process. I've done it at room temperature, but you can go colder or hotter and observe the time and the effect.
Great video. Cool dodging technique too. I must try that next time I'm in the darkroom
You're videos are excellent
This looks awesome! What dilution did you use for the selenium? How long did you develop in the bleach, sepia and selenium? I love the look your print has. Thanks!
Beautiful work Borut
Truly inspiration video!!! great work!! congrats!!!
Great video and a helpfull tip for glossy drying. Can you share your experience how to find out the correct temperature?
Thanks and best regards, Ian
Dear Ian, although my dryer has a thermometer switch, usually dryers do not have them. Start with cold dryer or cooled down dryer. Always start with cooler side. I dry with temperatures from 50C - 200C, but always start with cooler side. And don't just leave it in, once it is dried. If leaving it too long, it will cause curling.
素晴らしい！感動した！あなたの作品を素直に私の部屋に飾りたいと思った！
I don't do bows and arrows but I guess you're right! Thank for the video!
Very nice, stunning actually ! But I misunderstood how did you get this wonderful glossy effect on your print... could you explain more in details ?
Here's detailed explanation: www.rdrop.com/users/tedpet/ferrot.htm
In short, you dry the print with heat while pressed emulsion down onto very smooth and clean metal plate.
Hi Borut, nice to see that you are finishing your prints also high gloss. Im experimenting myself with this technique recently.. But I was wondering do you presoake your FB paper in something before you put it on the glazing plate? How about the glazing plate itself? I read online that this can be treated as well.. Every time I try it I end up with an image which is stuck to the glazing plate and I have to rip it off! Any suggestions are welcome since i dont know what im doing wrong!? Keep up the great content! Best, max
The plate needs to be clean, the print needs to be properly fixed and washed. If you have trouble with sticking prints, try letting the prints air dry first, then re-soak them in photoflo (usual dilution) for five or ten minutes before sqeegeeing them on the plate. The plate shouldn't be treated with anything, it should be perfectly clean and have a mirror like polish, clean with liquid soap and water only, make sure it is thoroughly rinsed. Water should run off freely, if water is sticking to the surface in beads, it is not clean.
Hi, from Sydney Australia, your videos are awsome, i have a question for you.... ive tried glossing my fibre base prints....lots of different temperatures and times. i can get the gloss look but they always stick to the metal plate... i clean it thoroughly before . but it always sticks and the print gets ruined. i really want to get this right, iam using foma paper. i really need your help please. steve. thanks for sharing your videos, your paper seems to come off the plate very easily.
Dear Steve, from what you've said, I reckon your metal plate is scratched and that makes it stuck.
Great conclusion!!!!
Great work! By the way after making the print glossy do you have to make it flat under a press or something? Mine are smoothly curled and I have some problems to make them really flat after the glossy part... Thank you for your topshit tricks !
I will make a video about it. Either you dry it on ferrotyping mashin or you tape it with this tape that carpenters use. You know the glue that when dry is not sticky but when it's wet it becomes sticky. The kind of glue that is on a post stamps. It's special kind of tape used by carpenters, check their store.
Thank you for answering, I use a ferrotyping machine and have some great results and really glossy prints, but the prints curl a little after going out the machine and and I don't have the same results I have when I use the second type of drying I think you're talking about ( in France we call it Kraft paper, or "papier gommé"). Thanks, a video about this will be a huge help for many of us!
could you also tell the lens you use? did you mount a modern one too? or do you use the old durst schneider 210mm?
Vittorio Restelli doesn't get much better then an old Schneider 210mm 5,6 lens ;-)
what is the temperature and time you were using? thanks!
It's judged visually, so I don't measure the temperature, but I do the time, if I want to have consistent results of that batch.
Borut Peterlin hi, thank you!
What about the machine setting that you used to make the print flat and glossy? I have one of this machine, but never succeed!
THe most important condition is that the surface is clean and without scratches. It is pretty simple from there on. So if you never succeed then probably because of that cause.
how would i do split toning for shadows/highlights? start with the shadows?
No!!! Start with highlights! Otherwise selenium will react on highlights and sulphide toner will chemically not react with selenium highlights!
hello borut. what is the name of the enlarger you are using? thx
it's durst 138s
;-)
Durst 138s
Thank you for sharing! Awesome (y)
beautiful toning
Topshit toning thanks for the flamboyant approach.
Admire your talent
thanks!
This could be translated as a manual Photoshop"ing"!
absolute genious!
Hi , What's the brain of your print dryer ?
Hahaha Nice one Borut!
Erm..."WOW!!"
Odlično!
Subscribing just on the basis that your channel name features the words "top" and "shit" in conjunction.
:-)
Hello and congrats! is the paper you showed us foma 112 ?
Don't remember exactly, but it surely wasn't mat. It's probably FomaTOne glossy
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography thanx!greetings from greece.