Reduced Engine Performance fix - Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) on Land Rover LR3

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ส.ค. 2024
  • If you have a Reduced Engine Performance error, good chances are this will fix it. Most Reduced Engine Performance errors on Land Rover are simply from dirty Mass Air Flow Sensors (MAF). Cleaning them is easy and they are simple to access. After MAF cleaning my LR3 was up and running strong with no errors.

ความคิดเห็น • 35

  • @Asifyou
    @Asifyou 4 ปีที่แล้ว +8

    I thank you and appreciate your help for uploading this video, it happened to my freelander 2 after pick up my daughter from school, so we parked at a gas station, got out and bought a mobile top up to use TH-cam and to contact my husband. So I found this video and I rang my husband to bring the crc and the tool to unscrew the air flow, so I showed my husband the video and I just stood on the side and check he's doing exactly as you did and it works, so me and my daughter drove to pick up my baby from my mom's house. Thank you again.

    • @FarReachFR
      @FarReachFR  4 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      Aioema, I am so pleased to hear that my video helped you out. It makes me smile. Also thank your husband for putting up with my video for 10 minutes. :) A good man.

  • @bfly3350
    @bfly3350 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thank you for your video! My Land Rover works now. I also changed the air filter as well.. it was so black as night🤮…. Loved seeing your kids have fun. Stay warm out there.

  • @dianebrodie2956
    @dianebrodie2956 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thank you very much. Stay warm.

  • @user-ly8ub7of4e
    @user-ly8ub7of4e 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Hi iam frm lebanon thx for helping ur vedio made sense

    • @FarReachFR
      @FarReachFR  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Greetings to Lebanon from the USA. Glad I could help, and have a great day!

  • @westbarba529
    @westbarba529 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Thank you so much !

  • @cber5077
    @cber5077 ปีที่แล้ว

    I read that another cause of low engine power fault is leaky or cracked hoses. So if cleaning the sensor doesn’t fix the problem, try changing or taping the hoses (if you can reach them 😂).

  • @billcoley8520
    @billcoley8520 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Update on my wife’s car. I found several spark plugs kinda worn out so I changed them. While I was looking around I found a coil that looked like it had been hot. Kinda melted on the outside. So I changed that out too. It cranked up as usual.

    • @FarReachFR
      @FarReachFR  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Nice! That is some solid problem solving.

  • @justrafe
    @justrafe 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Good Vid

  • @kevintoulytrades
    @kevintoulytrades 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks for Sharing. What issues did you experience when driving under a "Reduced Engine Performance" (REP) fault? How do you clear the fault message after the MAF was cleaned? Did you also replace the Engine Air Filter? Does the REP fault message go off on its own after you cleaned the MAF?
    My RR Supercharged when going up a steep hill suddenly dropped in speed after accelerating above 80 mph almost completely lost accelerating power. It then displayed a REP message and check engine light came on (no smoke or over-heating, normal load). Seems like there's an interlock that kept me from accelerating even with my gas pedal floored under a REP fault. I pulled to the shoulder and turned off the engine waited a few minutes and engine performance was restored, but the check engine light is still on.

    • @FarReachFR
      @FarReachFR  7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Hi Kevin, My experience is very similar to your own. I was having check engine light (CEL) come and go now and then. Then REP came on and the LR3 immediately felt weak. Like major loss of power. But everything was fine. No overheat, not major issues, it just decided to give up power and throw an Reduced Engine Performance message. There was a couple times it seemed to come and go. And then it was basically on all the time. It was then I cleaned the MAF. After the MAF clean the REP went away and power came back. But I still had the CEL for awhile. I think it was a day or two and then the Check Engine Light when away on its own. I never pulled the codes prior to MAF cleaning so I cannot confirm that the CEL and the REP are tied together, or if I had two issues that just manifested at the same time. But it is quite possible they were unrelated, as a month later I did pull the codes and it was a Thermostat heater issue that was the CEL. This is getting long so let me be brief: In summary: MAF clean did remove the REP. Also power came back strong. the CEL came and went, but was likely a different unrelated issue. In my case it was a Thermostat that was the likely CEL. An Auto Zone or Advanced Auto can pull the codes off your Rover and confirm. I would suggest a MAF clean to get your power back, and then checking the CEL codes to see whats left.

    • @kevintoulytrades
      @kevintoulytrades 7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      +Far Reach Engineering
      Hello FRE, thanks for replying. Have you seen any issues since you clean the MAF? What did you use to read the fault codes? I tried using a simple one I bought from Amazon that worked for Honda didn't work for my Rover. Thanks.

    • @FarReachFR
      @FarReachFR  7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      No issues post cleaning. As for reading the fault codes, while I have a code reader for the BMW it didnt read the Rover. So I just took the Rover to an Auto Zone and they pulled the codes free and easy. Just drop in on one and they should be able to access any significant codes on it.

  • @Asifyou
    @Asifyou 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    did you spray the little bulb on top of the wire or did you just spray the wire without touching the bulb coz i know the pressure of spray can break the bulb thanks

    • @FarReachFR
      @FarReachFR  7 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      I sprayed the wire and the bulb. I did NOT physically contact either with the can, or the straw, etc. But I did totally spray them with the liquid. No issue on mine. To me the bulb and wire did not seem to be fragile pieces. They appeared rather durable and held up well under spraying. I would not expect the pressure from a spray can to be an issue on either. I would be careful with temperature differences though. If you had a hot bulb sitting in the sun and sprayed it with cold spray perhaps that temperature shock could cause a problem. But other than that, I would not expect an issue. At least that is my experiance

  • @yattia2003
    @yattia2003 7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I know this post is somewhat old, but I have been having the same issue as mentioned with the "Reduced Engine Performance" (REP) coming up on the dash, but without any CEL appearing. I took it to the garage and they told me it was the water pump for the supercharge that needed replacing which they did. But seems the issue is back again. I want to try cleaning the MAF sensor, but if I disconnect it myself and do the cleaning process, will I be faced with issues in terms of reprogramming the Computer/system on the car once I plug the MAF sensor back in place and start up the car? Or will it all be fine so long as the car is off and the I perform the cleaning process? Would appreciate your help.

    • @FarReachFR
      @FarReachFR  7 ปีที่แล้ว

      If you want to give cleaning the MAF a try, so long as you turn it off before you unplug it and then plug it back in before turning it back on, there is no concern about reprogramming. With that in mind you will be fine.

  • @victorsuarez3235
    @victorsuarez3235 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hey um I’m going to attempt this on mine but question how did u exactly clean it did u wait for it to dry or did u use something to dry it or is it fine to put back in after and the side did u spray that also or did u just wipe it off with a rag

    • @victorsuarez3235
      @victorsuarez3235 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Plz answerrr😭ik this is old

    • @FarReachFR
      @FarReachFR  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Hi Victor, in my case, you just wait for it to dry.
      Good news is that the cleaner evaporates in less than a minute. And once is it wet, the pressure from additional spraying blows the contaminates off the wires. I did not physically touch them at all. The reason I did not touch them is 1. I didnt need to and 2. I did not want to risk breaking them or damaging the thin wires. So to recap. Just spray it down. spray it down again, then let it dry. Double check and see if it looks clean. If not, spray a couple more times. Once it looks good and clean, you are good to go. No touch necessary.

    • @victorsuarez3235
      @victorsuarez3235 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Far Reach Engineering THANK YOU SOOO MUCH your the boss dude

  • @bboneill3941
    @bboneill3941 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi. Have reduced engine performance warning. No loss of power. Errors are C2620 and C044D. Anybody know what those errors relate to, please? Mechanic don't know.

    • @FarReachFR
      @FarReachFR  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      What car do you have? Those dont look like standard codes.

    • @bboneill3941
      @bboneill3941 6 ปีที่แล้ว

      Car was losing power then picking up again. Engine sounded noisey on start up. Got 4 new glo-plugs fitted, message gone, car is running better.

  • @sadbravesfan
    @sadbravesfan 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi, what tool is that called that you used to remove the screws? Thanks

    • @FarReachFR
      @FarReachFR  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hello, It is a "Torx" bit. You can usually get a decent sized torx bit set for under $10. I dont recall the Torx number I used. Probably was about a Torx 10 or 15. But that is a guess. Or were you asking about my dual rotating screwdriver that I was holding the torx bit in?

    • @sadbravesfan
      @sadbravesfan 6 ปีที่แล้ว

      Far Reach Engineering I think both actually. I am clueless when it comes to tools but trying to get better at it. Screwdrivers and hammers are all I know haha. But yeah the rotating screw driver looked very useful for being able to tighten or untighten the bits. I have an LR2 that wouldn't start. Then I jumped it and got a "low fuel" warning for a second and it cranked up but then got the "reduced engine performance" message. It ran for a few days but seemed to struggle to start then today it won't start and I got the message again so I'm hoping I can do what you did here and that'll solve it.

    • @FarReachFR
      @FarReachFR  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      Gotcha. As for the screwdriver I use in the video, it is total overkill. The type of screwdriver is called a Cobalt "double drive". Its nice but totally not needed. (it was a Christmas gift my kids gave me). A simple torx bit on a basic screwdriver or socket set will work far cheaper and wont take much more time. Good luck on the LR2. Here is hoping. All though if your problems started after jumping, I would have some thought that it might be a computer error code in the system do to a low voltage fault when the battery was dead. If that is the case, I would give Autozone or your favorite local parts store a try on running the codes and clearing them. (of course with the assumption you can get your LR2 there). But I agree with you that starting with cleaning the MAF is a decent place to start considering the error it gave you and the fact that it costs next to nothing to do. All the best!

    • @equaliser2265
      @equaliser2265 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Torcs 20

    • @sadbravesfan
      @sadbravesfan ปีที่แล้ว

      @@equaliser2265 forgot all about this comment lol thank you for the reply though!

  • @billcoley8520
    @billcoley8520 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    My wife’s Lr2 just broke down and the reduced light came on. We waiting on a tow truck to take it home. It will not crank at all.
    I have to say that land rovers are terrible vehicles

    • @KangoV
      @KangoV 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      Our LR3 is 12 years old. Goes off road regularly. Never had a problem.

    • @s3hooligan
      @s3hooligan 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      I disagree that Land Rovers are terrible. We have 206,000 miles on our LR3