If your fuel sender is a dead player( which is why you're here), you can do this: go to radio shack and buy a linear taper potentiometer. 250 ohms is good. 500 will work too, but accurate adjustments get tougher as the pot ohms increase. solder a wire to the center terminal, and another wire to one of the outside terminals. the third terminal is unused. Lets test: connect your ohm meter to the two wires. turning the knob one way will give you 0 ohms, the other way will give you 250 ohms (if it is a 250 ohm pot). You have just made a variable resistor. Now set the pot to 0 ohms. Hook one wire of the pot to the fuel gauge sender wire, the other from the pot to ground. turn on the key and look at your fuel gauge. slowly turn the pot knob until the fuel gauge reads 0. read and record the ohms at the pot with the ohm meter. turn the pot knob till the gauge reads full. read and record the ohms of the pot with your meter. You now know the fuel gauge works and can order the correct ohm sender.
I have a 1964 ford econoline van and the old fuel gauge is broken. The tank is like a 65 mustang fuel tank. Can you give me a good ohm range so I can look for a new gauge that will work with this old van?
best wireing method is run both leads from sender to meter that way you elinate ohms in steel frame if replacing sender choose reed switch only moving part is magnetic float and it is rust proof
I was wondering if the sender is 0 - 100 OHMS do you just swap the side the float is on if you have a gauge that is reversed and is 100 - 0 ohms? or else my gauge will show full when the tank is empty and empty when the tank is full.
How are you going to "pull the sending unit," to test the ohms, but the one you "pulled" is brand spanking new? How can I buy a new sending unit while testing a faulty one?
Not very useful. OK so now you know the Ohms of your sender but how do you know if it matches the gauge? I have an original fuel gauge (Smith) on my British prewar car but need a new sender. There are several types available and I had hoped this video woul tell me which one I need, but alas...
There is no need to be so unkind. The information he was giving was still correct and placing the red lead on the positive is a good habit to follow. His knowledge and how he explained the situation was very good and easy to understand. Well done Sir, Thank you 👍
Quick, easy, & professional. Thank you sir. I wish I would have seen your video first.
If your fuel sender is a dead player( which is why you're here), you can do this: go to radio shack and buy a linear taper potentiometer. 250 ohms is good. 500 will work too, but accurate adjustments get tougher as the pot ohms increase. solder a wire to the center terminal, and another wire to one of the outside terminals. the third terminal is unused. Lets test: connect your ohm meter to the two wires. turning the knob one way will give you 0 ohms, the other way will give you 250 ohms (if it is a 250 ohm pot). You have just made a variable resistor. Now set the pot to 0 ohms. Hook one wire of the pot to the fuel gauge sender wire, the other from the pot to ground. turn on the key and look at your fuel gauge. slowly turn the pot knob until the fuel gauge reads 0. read and record the ohms at the pot with the ohm meter. turn the pot knob till the gauge reads full. read and record the ohms of the pot with your meter. You now know the fuel gauge works and can order the correct ohm sender.
Great vid man. Well delivered and I know now exactly what to do with my new boat guage and sending unit.
Clear and simple- thanks
Helpful - thank you!
Well Done Sir.
Thank you 👍
Thank you! So clear
I have a 1964 ford econoline van and the old fuel gauge is broken. The tank is like a 65 mustang fuel tank. Can you give me a good ohm range so I can look for a new gauge that will work with this old van?
would you beable to provide the video for the calibration process that you spoke of? Thanks
Thanks for the content
my manual calls for 3ohms full/80ohms empty the replacement unit I received reads 6.5omhs full/82.5 empty will that cause an issue ?
best wireing method is run both leads from sender to meter that way you elinate ohms in steel frame if replacing sender choose reed switch only moving part is magnetic float and it is rust proof
Thank you for that
You're measuring resistance; what difference does the polarity make?
the gauge case is gd so you so want center lead on sender to go plus lead on gauge
Hey goof ball, if the sender worked to show you resistance you wouldn't have to replace it now would ya?
I was wondering if the sender is 0 - 100 OHMS do you just swap the side the float is on if you have a gauge that is reversed and is 100 - 0 ohms? or else my gauge will show full when the tank is empty and empty when the tank is full.
Yes. Some you can flip the side and reverse the ohms. You will need to rotate the mounting flange too for the bolt pattern to match up.
USA range is 33 ohms full 244 ohms empty other countrys diff ranges you can not mix them
Thanks 👍🏼
the USA standard range is 33ohms full 244 ohms empty
i cant belive the sender unit sits inside the fule it self when the tank is full :D
USA standard 33ohm full 244 ohm empty
How are you going to "pull the sending unit," to test the ohms, but the one you "pulled" is brand spanking new? How can I buy a new sending unit while testing a faulty one?
if its american its range is 33 ohms full 244 ohms empty
Not very useful. OK so now you know the Ohms of your sender but how do you know if it matches the gauge? I have an original fuel gauge (Smith) on my British prewar car but need a new sender. There are several types available and I had hoped this video woul tell me which one I need, but alas...
When measuring resistance it does not matter which polarity you make the connection. It shows his electronic knowlege is very poor.
There is no need to be so unkind. The information he was giving was still correct and placing the red lead on the positive is a good habit to follow. His knowledge and how he explained the situation was very good and easy to understand. Well done Sir, Thank you 👍
my manual calls for 3ohms full/80ohms empty the replacement unit I received reads 6.5omhs full/82.5 empty will that cause an issue ?
No, hardly noticeable on the guage