Cylinder Head & Gasket DIY Procedure - Toyota 5VZ-FE - Part 3
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ส.ค. 2024
- This 6 part series walks through the very detailed procedure for diagnosing and replacing a cracked cylinder head and head gasket on a 1995 Toyota Tacoma with the 3.4 liter 5VZ-FE V6 engine.
This engine was widely used by Toyota from the mid 1990's through 2004 in the Tacoma, Tundra, T-100, 4Runner, and Land Cruiser. Therefore, this repair procedure should be common to all of those vehicles with the same engine.
Due to the detail presented in this video series, it is also a good reference for doing other repairs such as changing the antifreeze/coolant, timing belt, valve cover gaskets, camshafts, alternator, spark plugs, spark plug wires, ignition coil packs, vacuum hoses, exhaust manifolds, belts, hoses, cooling fan, and various intake gaskets.
Part 1 - Diagnosis & Initial Disassembly
• Cylinder Head & Gasket...
Part 2 - Intermediate Disassembly
• Cylinder Head & Gasket...
Part 3 - Final Disassembly
• Cylinder Head & Gasket...
Part 4 - Cylinder Head Removal, Inspection, & Replacement
• Cylinder Head & Gasket...
Part 5 - Initial Reassembly
• Cylinder Head & Gasket...
Part 6 - Final Reassembly & Wrap-up
• Cylinder Head & Gasket...
Here is the tool review for the OTC Universal Pulley Holder that was used in this video series to tighten the camshaft pulley bolts and to install the service bolt in the exhaust camshafts.
• OTC Universal Pulley H...
Here is the my total cost breakdown...
Parts:
$325.00 rebuilt cylinder head (www.ebay.com/s...)
$138.00 gasket set
$25.00 cylinder head bolts
$23.00 valve shims
$10.00 fuel injector electrical connector
$16.00 antifreeze
$537.00 Parts Total
Tools:
$54.00 OTC universal pulley holder
$80.00 factory service manual
$7.00 oil can
$7.00 blow gun nozzle
$20.00 torque angle gauge (skip this and just make a mark on the bolt heads with a silver Sharpie)
$76.00 machinist's steel straight edge
$34.00 valve adjusting tool
$278.00 Tools Total
$815.00 Grand Total
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With the right tools and some patience, it really is not a very difficult job.
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THANK YOU I LOVE YOU MAN. YOU ARE GODS GIFT. I’ve been following this series for 3 weeks, I’m 17 years old with my first truck, never touched an engine before and I followed your instructions and you taught me so much about engines. After pressure test, BOTH of my heads were cracked and I replaced my heads on my 99 Tacoma. This was such a headache and a learning experience, now I feel like someone can point at a part into a 1st gen Tacoma and I can tell them exactly what it is. Mechanics were trying to charge me 3,800 just for the head gasket and I only spent about 900 for parts, tools, and fluids. Seriously man, taking your time to do this and help people is so great and I can’t thank you enough. My engine runs better than before AND I finally fixed this misfire. You rock man!!!!!!!!
This is the most comprehensive instructional video I've ever used. I couldn't agree more with The Chap MX from a while back, I'd love to shake the creator's hand. Thank you so much for all of the time that went into this, and the tips, tricks, and pitfall advice.
Thanks for taking the time to send those kind comments. I really appreciate it.
Old school mechanic!
Very nice to see you using hand tools only. No power or air tools. Not a lot of people work with as much precision and paitence as you.
Great job.
Thanks for the kind comments. I really appreciate it.
I keep coming back to watch, you did an incredible job with all the parts of this series!!! Thank you again for taking even more time to take all of this footage for us!!!
Thanks for the kind comments. I really appreciate it.
I need to change my head cylinder gasket and I'm glad to found this video, excellent explanation! It gives me more courage to do it by myself!
Fantastic series. The instructions were clear, the angles were good, the editing was wonderful and the thoroughness was incredible. I now feel confident in working on my pickup. Thank you so much for taking the time to do this so well. One of the best I've ever seen with this amount of detail. Thank you again.
Getting ready to tackle this same job in a few days. I just got my FelPro gasket set yesterday. Thank you. I think your video will be an enormous help.
Chuck Adams from Indiana.
Thank you. You are the best. Saved me a lot of time, money, and frustration.
Thanks for the kind comments. I really appreciate it. I hope that your project was successful.
The best comprehensive video tear down. I am so impressed with your skill and knowledge. Thank you sir!
those are the best mechanical DIY video I've seen
Great video. I noticed in the last video you noticed coolant and concluded it may be from the intake manifold gasket. The coolant pipe was likely leaking. Hopefully you noticed that and put some Toyota water pump sealant on during assembly. Thanks for the detail.
ive seen the problem with the cams not lining up many times.I work in s/e Asia and try to explain that these loaded gears need to be locked or preloaded when reassembling. if not the vehicle will not sound right and use more fuel then things will just get worse.a good example is the common rail diesel if you own one and it's not as quite as quiet as it should be it's because someone has not locked all the gears up when servicing something. with these Toyota / Lexus v6 it's difficult to hear as they are so quiet.a good sign is if you scan and get codes referring to cam position and or vvt sensor.
Just for your information, on my 2005 Toyota Sienna, which has a cam setup just like yours, the marks on the camshaft (the little dots) do, in fact, line up with the timing marks on the crankshaft and cam pulleys. Thank you for making this video. I am currently removing my heads.
Bob Simmons Good observation and I can see that to be true on both sides. When the single dots are aligned, they do seem to be in line with the timing of cylinder #1. However when the double dots are aligned on the passenger side, which is where they have to be to remove the cams on that side, they are 180 degrees off from the timing marks.
worsethanchiggers Yes, you are correct. I was referring to the single dots, not the double dots. Thanks again for making this video. I have found it very useful in my repairs. God bless...
Thank god for this man and his videos!
I'm a bit scared , but I been waiting 2yrs to find comprehensive info how to change the head gasket on a 1992 Previa with 799.000km milleage. Never done such complicated job before. I have the parts, and dealer manual too. Thanks for sharing
Holy Shnikies! Isn't that nearly half a million miles? Go for it and good luck. Let us know how your experience compares.
What size is the hex bolt ?
@@shea5247 Toyota Previa 2TZ-FE engine set head bolts use the brand Victor-Reinz part nr. 14-55030-01. Supplier of the cyl.head gasket set and silicone sealant too
Thanks for the videos they are very helpful! I know it is 5 years old but I do want to point out that you loosen the cylinder head bolts in the wrong order. You loosen them in the tightening order, so you should actually loosen them in the reverse order of which you did.
Good point and you are absolutely correct. Thanks for challenging me on that detail. Tightening them in the correct order is far more important than the order in which you loosen them.
@@WorseThanChiggers is this because of the way it seats the gaskets?
@@bluefin666 My understanding of the tightening order is so that you do not over stress the cylinder head and warp it.
My respect to this man with out the greatest tools he doing something marvelous...
Thanks for the kind comments. I really appreciate it.
You had everything perfect buddy. Great job. Only question I would have is....why would you reuse the old head bolts
Thanks for the question. Someone might reuse them out of ignorance or for economic reasons. They are stretch bolts and I did replace mine as can be seen here in part 4 of the video series. th-cam.com/video/nFYEoWTX0YU/w-d-xo.html
Very helpful thanks 👍
damn bto thank you so much for these videos very well made and you gave me nice tips that i'll use in the future.
Thanks for the kind comments. I really appreciate it.
THANK YOU SOOOOOOOOOO MUCH I COULDNT GET MY HEADS OFF AND ITS THE HEX BOLTS!!!!!! THANK YOU!!!!! Btw youre not supposed to reuse the headbolts theyre torque to yield
BikeLyfe I'm glad it was helpful. You are certainly correct about the head bolts. I did buy and install new ones as can be seen in Part 4 of this video series. Good luck with yours!
Ty. Guess i dont need to organize them with a card board. The less work the better
this video is amazing.
you are very knowledgeable mechanic. l wish l had your knowledge.
I forgot about the service bolt in the cam in my 2.7, made it misfire and a loud loose timing chain type sound. It's used for anti backlash and just a lite bit of play in your cams will make the engine not run right
+hebe Jebel Thanks for the added info. Did you go back and correct it after realizing that you'd missed that step?
It's interesting to compare the video views from Part 1, 2, and now 3. A lot of people didn't make it beyond 2 before they said, "fuck this, I'm calling Midas."
Those are interesting stats. I just don't understand why part 4 has the most views by far. Perhaps the thumbnail is the most interesting of the lot.
I got this far and decided not to buy the 4Runner on Craigslist that needed a new cylinder head. These videos are great man, thanks for taking the time during your repair to document all of this stuff!
Great instructional video!! One question - after you installed the cams to the gears alignment dots, did you rotate the cams back to the original position of being 180 degrees out, or did you leave the cams aligned to their respective dots before installing the valve cover?
I left the cams aligned with their respective dots during the entire reassembly process until it came time to install the timing belt. Then I turned everything to get the timing right. Since this is a non-interference engine, it doesn't really matter when you turn the cams. Thanks for the kind comments. I really appreciate it.
Thank you for the quick response...well...I just picked up the heads (decided to do both) and low and behold...the exact problem you experienced, a crack in the same spot / cylinder position. Now deciding if I should just replace the whole engine with a low mileage used one...this one has 216k+...but great experience thank to your videos...take care
@@d.c.2916 Tough call.
great videos man, thank you so much!
I dont think by removing the headbolts out of order will warp the cylinder head.. they are at ambient temperatures and are releasing... torquing on installation may be a different scenario
no way to leave the exhaust manifolds on the head when removing them I guess? great videos!
kauboi In retrospect, that does seem possible, at least on the driver's side. However, It would have had to come off anyway to replace the head but it would have been easier on the bench.
Great video
Getting those exhaust manifolds off is the hardest part. They’re not fun to get to and for the most part stuck. Tried a breaker bar, not much luck but will try a air tool wrench with 80ft lbs to get off. Especially the left side of the cylinder head. Any suggestions?
Penetrating oil and an impact gun. In extreme cases, perhaps red-hot heat from an acetylene torch. Heat the nut to release it from the stud. Just don't snap 'em off or your day will get much worse.
@@WorseThanChiggers thanks for the tips..going to try later today. My 2000 4Runner didn’t have a heat shield. Kinda interesting. Also, Some of the nuts came off and not the studs so hopefully taking it off after all nuts/studs are off won’t be to hard
I need to know what penetrating oil your using...seems to work.
PB Blaster
if camshaft marks line up but the hole for the service bolt hole doesnt should i take camshaft out and line up the hole for service bolt and reinstall
What size socket for the head bolts? (I know it’s 12pt)
What size socket was used on the cam sprocket bolt?
Sorry, I don't have the truck or factory service manual anymore to reference for you. Just use the metric size that fits correctly.
Thanks for the video, I'm in the middle of doing mine right now but my exhaust header studs didn't come out like yours did, does that mean I'll have to do the headers and crossover pipe on the other side as well before i can remove it?
Honestly, I don't remember. Once you get down in there, it should be obvious what you can and cannot do without the studs removed. You may still be able to get them out if you soak them in PB Blaster and put a couple of jam nuts on the end. Just don't over do it and break 'em. That would make for a very bad day.
Please the abracam point in right ,one in on the longe abracam point it up or down?Or the arbracam short the point one is down?
I am very sorry. I wish that I could help but I do not understand your question.
Did you have to depressurize the fuel system before disconnecting the fuel regulator and the high pressure fuel line?
progolfer69 Normally that would be a very good idea. But the truck sat in the garage for a few weeks before I'd gotten to that step and the residual fuel pressure had mostly bled off by then on its own. To do it right, I would have pulled the fuel pump relay and cranked it over a few times after parking it initially. Also remove the gas cap to relieve pressure in the tank.
Wow you really know your shiet! Props to you!
Those multi-layer gaskets you pulled off, where do they sit again and what are they called? Exhaust manifold gasket?
+Allison Patterson That is correct. At 6:41 of this video, I remove the old multi-layer exhaust manifold gasket. It goes between the engine block and the exhaust manifold. There are other multi-layer gaskets used elsewhere in this video series for the intake manifold and plenum.
my timing belt broke while driving. i didnt know after the fact i was turning thr key to restart. did i di damage to the engine? Bent any valve or damage any pistons? thank you
Yikes! That can be an exciting experience. Was the timing belt overdue for a change or did it fail prematurely? Do you have this same vehicle? If so, the 5VZ-FE is a non-interference engine and, therefore, should not have sustained any damage to the valves or pistons. Throw on a new timing belt, idler pulleys, tensioner, and water pump, and you should be good to go.
Mine is leaking coolant from head gasket just 85,000 miles it a 3.4 liter..
This video is amazing. Thank you so much! Do you have access to a PDF copy of the FSM? It's very hard to find online, or costs $250 from Amazon.
I'm pretty sure that distributing a PDF version of a FSM would be a copyright violation. They can be expensive to purchase but are well worth their weight in gold. I consider them to be the first tool that I buy for my toolbox whenever I buy a car. And they pay for themselves the first time I avoid paying someone else to do the work on my car. I typically get mine used off of eBay for a discounted price. Another great option is to buy an electronic subscription from a place like www.alldatadiy.com/.
@@WorseThanChiggers wow I had no idea about that website! Superhelpful
Verygood
Hey worsethanchiggers I was able to get the driver side cams out but I'm have trouble getting one of the bearing caps off on the exhaust cam(passenger side). Any idea why? Tips or tricks?
I suppose it depends on what type of "trouble" you are having. Is it just that the bolt is too hard to loosen or the cap is stuck in place after the bolts have been removed?
worsethanchiggers I have the bolts out, it's the cap itself that's stuck.
As seen here, I used a plastic faced hammer to gently tap the cap until it broke free. th-cam.com/video/yTsocmNdBpQ/w-d-xo.html
Great Video !! enjoyed the entire series. Watching the video and at location 14:10, you found that the cam timing gear dots were about 1 tooth off. The engine I am working on has the same camshaft orientation. Did you maintain this relationship or set them dot to dot ? I'm not sure how I want to assemble mine. thanks
Thanks for the kind comments. I really appreciate it. Keep watching the rest of the series and you'll see how I further discuss the issue during reassembly and corrected the cam gear alignment marks. It involves preloading the torsion spring on one of the cam gears before installing the service bolt. Note that the dots are not timing marks but rather alignment marks. They are not used for timing the engine but rather to orient the cams correctly in relation to each other. Timing is done later when installing the timing belt. I, too, questioned whether or not to leave the dots as-is or to correct them. I decided to correct them and am very happy that I did because the engine runs very smoothly now as a result. Good luck with yours and please let us know how it goes!
Hermano buenas tardes necesito ayuda en la sincronización de las levas de la culata derecha de Toyota 3.400 5vz
Get yourself a genuine factory service manual. It has the detailed procedure for setting up the timing properly.
What is the size of 12 pointed head socket? I just don't see it in a factory manual.
+Sunmin Cho I don't remember exactly but it was probably a 14 mm.
Thank you! I have a factory manual, but it does not say about the size. How did you know what size of socket to buy in the first place?
Sunmin Cho My main mechanics tool set contains 6 point sockets. So, I just purchased an inexpensive set of 12 point 1/2 in. drive sockets from Harbor Freight for $13 and used the one that fit the head bolts.
+Kratos000S The crankshaft is not removed as part of this procedure.
you can pull out the crank shaft and once done with the head gasket job do a complete timing belt job water pump new tensioner new bearing new cam seals and a new crank shaft seal ive done allot of them ... why would you remove the engine tho ? just curious
¿Cuál es el nombre de los libros?
A genuine Toyota factory service manual.
worsethanchiggers i have a problem i was tryn to change my timing belt using a long bar supported on my chassis etc...the problem is that (i thing) one of the piston is touching one of the valves and that piston bend that valve bc when i try to rotate the crank shaft it only muve one turn to the left and the same thing to the right then stop...do i have to do all the the the job yo did? or my job is worse? i hope you understand my broken english 😊please tell me what to do thanks in advance.
Hi Ed, your English is fine. Thanks for asking your questions. I have several thoughts on the subject. First, you should only rotate your engine in the direction that it normally turns, not backwards. On my engine, that would be clockwise as viewed from the front. It may be that you did not remove the spark plugs and you are simply feeling resistance from the compression of the rising pistons in their cylinders. That is normal. Remove the spark plugs or just push through it until that piston reaches the top and it will get easier again. If your engine is the same as mine (5VZ-FE), it is a non-interference engine which means that there is no danger of the pistons touching an open valve. You said that you are using a long breaker bar supported on the chassis. What is the purpose of that and what bolt is it holding?
thanks for your reply...i used the long breaker bar to lose the crankshaft bolt bc it was extremely tide u know, you support the breaking bar on the chassis and then you do like little toches to the key not turning the car until you can remove that bolt,that maybe muve the timing belt like 3 teeths ahead and i didnt notice.again i hope you understand me.tomorrow i will take the spark plugs off and i will let you know if i see any difference.
the car is a toyota 4 runner 3.4 litter with not inteference engine it look exactly like yours.
Yes, I understand that method of loosening the crankshaft bolt using the starter. Did it work for you?
yeah the method work fine most of the times but no buddy tell you that can bend the valves with it,and also i did disconect a sensor that dont let the engine to turn on,imagine that breaker bar flyn away at the speed of the freaking crankshaft,but if the bolt is not to tide,that work perfect.if the timing belt jump couple of teeths there is a problem.
Very good afternoon change the heads of a Toyota 3.4 but I can not Aser q turn it on you could pass me the manual please if it is not much annoyance
Hi Manual. You will need to purchase your own manual or subscribe to a service like www.alldata.com. Best of luck!
😆
Why do i feel like this is day 2 ha ha
Only thing noticeable is not enough cursing going on
Haha, there was certainly plenty of that. I just edited those parts out.
Oh I am not looking forward to removing the stupid exhaust pipes , it’s literally Hell ! Knuckle bust city !
Wa👍