Toyota Prius Head Gasket replacement step by step
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2024
- Welcome back to @AutoScholarwithMrB! Today we go over all the steps you need to replace your head gasket in your 2010-2015 Toyota Prius. The Lexus CT200h is the same engine and should be the same procedure.
This is a fairly complicated job, but can be done with little tools and some mechanical ability. The range of prices to do this job are $3500-$4500 if you get it done professionally and most of that cost is labor. Doing this yourself can save you thousands of dollars. I recommend replacing the thermostat, water pump, PCV valve, and timing chain. Also if you need the intake and EGR system cleaned, now is the time to do it. I recommend using Toyota OEM parts with exception of the head gasket itself. FEL-PRO makes a better gasket according to my research and experiences.
There are people that say that there is no need to get the cylinder head machined, but I do it every time. I got mine done at Bo's Machine Shop in Augusta, GA for $115. This included a pressure test, planing of the mating surfaces, and checking the valves.
Video for wiper cowl removal: • 5 Minute Trick to Get ...
Amazon links for items used:
Note: Channel may get a small commission if these links are used, but will not cost you any more money. Thanks for the support!
Head gasket set used: amzn.to/3N77fWj
Head bolts: amzn.to/41zB0CV
Water Pump: amzn.to/41g0qWz
Timing chain set: Dealer sourced
PCV valve: amzn.to/3mFxLLu
#prius #headgasket #toyota #ct200h #lexus
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I want to thank you for this video. I used it to replace the head gasket on my 2011 Prius. It was so useful, I really don't think I would be able to do it without this video. You did a great job and I am very thankful for your time and expertise.
Hey that is great! Glad to help. Thanks for watching.
Was it easy to do?
My dealership wanted to charge me $6,800 and I can’t thank you enough for this video
thomasville ga toyota 3600.
@west_park7993 that’s probably fair if they are using Toyota parts and getting the head checked.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB toyota buys parts and liquids from autozone. the cheapest. a stp filter costs around 7 dollars, but dealers buy it for 2.75 and then sells it to us for 20. i know cause i deliver parts there.
I got my 2012 headgasket fix in Tijuana Mexico for $ 500 in 4hrs. My local dealership wanna to charge me $ 4400 lol.
They installed a fle-pro headgasket 2 years after still running good 188,000 miles.
500 dollars is very cheap.
Anyway you can send me the mechanic information I live in San Diego and I have a 2012 Prius V with the same head gasket issue
@@汤志珩that’s a fair price
@@rosaritomex4223 yo send the mechanic shop info
Thank you for this video. Followed your directions, and without really rushing I took about 12 hours from start to finish. Cleaning the sealing surfaces was the most annoying part of the job. Thank you again.
Glad to help!
Thanks soo much for this. I was able to complete this recently on our 2012 Prius with 252k miles on it , hoping to squeeze some more life out of this car. Cheers
Right on! Thanks for watching.
Nice and detailed. Need to tackle this tomorrow. You did forget to mention how to release the tensioner by slightly rotating the crank counter clockwise and you should hear it release. I did the headgasket on a CT200 a couple years ago and now need to do on my 2010 Prius. Using your video to refresh my memory. Thanks for posting.
Hey Mr B, I'm getting ready to do this on my Prius since I am going to replace the water pump and timing set anyway. Thank you so much for this straightforward video with your detailed explanation of every detail, what to watch out for, and no BS. I understand why you are an instructor, you are good at this. I use mostly all OEM Toyota parts except occasional gaskets. A lot of Toyota dealers sell parts online at a huge discount over going into the parts department.
Good luck with your repair!
Thank you so much for this in depth video. I have a 2011 prius and you saved me about $4,000
Thanks for watching!
How did you get the EGR cooler off? I’m having a HELL of a time with those torx studs. In fact, one of them was rusty and broke off. I’m going insane here!
Look up videos specifically how to remove egr@@dreadfulrumor6580
Thank you I don't think I would have been able to do it with out your video, thank you again
Mr. B the torque on the water pump is, 19ft lbs. for the 2 long bolts, and 15ft lbs. for the 3 short bolts.
Thank you kind sir!
A very well done video! Bookmarked for when I have to do the job.
The crank pulley torque is 140ft.lbs or 190 newton meters
I was just about to leave this same comment - had to go online and look up correct torque specs since 190 ft lbs seemed a bit much
I own a machine shop in CA and this is the most common head we see. For a price comparison, we charge $175 for a pressure test/inspection and a re-surface. If you're getting into this job, don't skimp on getting it checked by your local machine shop. You don't want to do all this work and bolt on a cracked head or end up having another head gasket failure because your mating surface wasn't flat, especially when using a mls gasket.
Thank you for taking this video
Amazing skills to do this kind of work, thank u for sharing
Ty for your time and video
I don’t want to jinx myself but did my entire repair with this video. Only thing I had to additionally replace was the crankshaft position sensor.. not sure why?? But I’m 70 miles in and running great. Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
How did you determine that you needed to replace the crankshaft position sensor?
Well the sensor was not the issue. The crankshaft sprocket was off one tooth. Engine actually ran great but check engine light was on. I took it apart again one afternoon and replaced timing chain and tensioners thinking chain had stretched but I was wrong again. Long story short… as you reintroduce valve spring pressure on the chain make sure you triple check the timing marks before you put it back together. Twice as I did it that chain moved that single tooth again and again. Just pay close attention to the marks and it’s a breeze.
@@Thefisherman-qr6is thank you!
My pleasure. I’ve had it apart three times. A machine I use to make fun of I now absolutely love! Enjoy yours, and message me any questions.
My 2010 prius 245k miles, does not always shake when it starts.
The engine shakes and chokes only when it is shut down after a few miles of driving, and then quickly restarted. Then the symptoms are crazy - it chokes and vibrates. Then, when it sits overnight, it starts great in the morning again. Dealer says need to replace motor, states ' blown gasket', and even that 'main bearing is bad'...
I replaced spark plugs, but looks like a gasket job is needed & EGR needs to be cleaned. Not sure what or how to replace bearings, but i'll start to disassemble and will see...
Thank you for giving us some confidence that it can be done without a dealer, but a lot of info is missing:
- torque numbers on bolts,
- fuel line - does it need any shut off somewhere,
- coolant vs inverter coolant
- can it be done without lifting the car high up
- do surfaces that surround gasket need some sealant/lube when putting back in (like silicone on cover)
- links to smaller gaskets
Thank you
Fantastic video! Thanks so much for sharing this detailed and complete guide.
2014 Prius, local Toyota dealership wanted $370 to replace 4 spark plugs as part of maintenance. When asked why so expensive the service guy said “book rate” was 1.5 hours per plug! Then I watch this video and he has them out easily. I can see why some labor is required disassembling items to get to them then acknowledge the time to put it back together, but the whole procedure would not seem to take more than an hour. Roughly $80 for 4 plugs, meaning roughly $290 labor. Also suggested was replacing front and rear wipers (“streaking”) though I just replaced the rear a month ago, the fronts about 2 months ago and have not noticed any streaking. Cost $67 front, $30 rear. Sigh
Once you get the wiper cowl out of the way the plugs are easy as a Corolla. I have a video on cowl removal here: th-cam.com/video/B5a3zUuWrb8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=VFjJwryUG2RvAvn3
Even if it takes me 4 hours.....I don't get paid 50 an hour so it makes more sense that I'm doing it. Plus then it's done how about thay
Holy Toledo, great video! Thanks for creating and sharing.
Impressive work, great video and super informative by explaining things how it work. Thank u
Thanks for watching!
perfect amount and level of detail in your explanations.... REALLY great vid
YEAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH Might skip the DIY on this one. :'D
I take a sharpie and draw a line on each head bolt, makes it easier for me when doing the degree deal.
how do you draw a line on a black oily bolt with sharpie???. Perhaps, you can take a file and make a cut on the head, so you can see a white line on black head.
@west_park7993 I used a silver sharpie, but I guess you could use green, blue, red, hell even purple if they make that color. There was no issue with oily bolt heads for me, but if there were I'd just spray some brakleen on a rag and wipe each one before dropping it into place.
Honestly if you can't figure out how to make it happen, maybe doing a head gasket is too big of a job for you in the first place.
@@GrandPrix46 you are right. the bolts arrive dry, and you can use silver pen. however, when you need this mark, if it is on the head, it will be hiding behind the tool. I can put a mark on the tool extension. sticky tape like a flag? or again, just a sharpie mark on sticky tape. this is my first head job, and i am learning from the best
@@west_park7993 You'll be fine, bud. This isn't a difficult job, most important things are to get the head machined at a good machine shop (mine needed new intake guides at @ 223k), clean everything really well, keep everything you remove organized, make sure everything is clean before reassembly, and use a half-decent torque wrench. Doesn't have to be Snap-On, but I wouldn't use HF junk, either. It's not a race car engine, if you're off just a bit it's not gonna hurt anything. Think I've put about 9k so far since doing the hg on my 2010.
Lube the top end up as you're putting it back together, too. I dropped all the lifters, or whatever they call them on a dohc engine, in a small plastic tub that my black forest ham came in half filled with 20w50. Before installing the valve cover, I ran 75/90 gear oil over the top of both cams. Was a pretty smooth first start after putting it all back together.
You can use the breaker bar itself as an angle meter too, 90* is a 1/4 turn, etc. So if I start at the 12 o'clock position, 3 o'clock will be 90*, the lines on the bolt heads are also a reminder in case you miss one. You'll know right away when you see one in a completely different position than the others. Last thing I can think of is make sure you don't have a bent rod, if one piston doesn't go as high as the rest, stop wasting time working on it and get another engine.
@@GrandPrix46 thanks for your long encouraging letter. i really appreciate your concern and kindness. i done everything on a car, AC, clutch, rack-pinion, also engine swap . this is my first head job. I work slowly, because i keep everything organized, i clean all parts bbq starter, tooth brush, etc. I place bunches of bolts in plastic bags... i did not loose any valve cap, i put all lifters, all rockers. i have a cheap hf torque wrench, but i calibrated it myself at the 36 ft.lb point.... got my tool box to the local ups. they have TOLEDO balance that's calibrated by the DOACS. Guaranteed accuracy. I adjusted the tool box to 36 lb. Then I placed a 1/2 extension horizontal on my vice. I attached a metal profile to the handle of my torque wrench, so that the 1/2 square is at the mid point center of gravity. So, when the wrench is attached horizontally to the extension in the vice, the wrench and metal bar are balanced. Then i measured 12 inches and hung the toolbox. adjusted the calibration nut to the point of exact click. voila. my cheap wrench acts 36 pounds at 1 ft and clicks..... my wife witnessed me when i torqued the bolts. (GLP: good laboratory practices ) she followed me to which is the next bolt... 36 then 90 deg, then 45 deg.... i graduated from mathematical school, i know what degrees are. 4 bolts form a rectangle, that is very close to a square. the diagonal of this rectangle is 48/42 degrees to the two neighbor sides. so, this is a prety good marker for 45 deg. The breakbar bends, you know, you can not be 100% perfect... as I finished the job, I relaized, i can do perfect 90 or 45 degree. this is how: Prepare 2 wire loops with a straight wire end. the loops are slightly smaller than the extension diameter. insert the extension in the loops and adjust the loops above the xzn-12 mm so the straight ends are like clock arrows. One of them you can fix attached to the say edge of the head. use c-clamps, vice grips or assistant. the other loop-arrow turns with the extension shaft. Set it 45 or 90 degree to the right. As you turn the bolt, the upper hand turns, and the lower is fixed. When they align, this is your exact 45 or 90 degree... see, as we go tru the job, we get better ideas........ i dont have bent rods........ i have some lucas oil heavy duty. it is very sticky, looks like 75/90..... i put a few drops of it in each lifter well, but it leaked the other end. i guess, before i put the valve cover gasket, i shall pour some lucas all over the cams.... i am not bragging, i just want to share my ideas and experience. again, it was pleasure talking to you. timing chain tomorrow.
Awsome video!
Toyota wants $8,000
Awesome video
Thanks for watching!
thank you very much!
Great video. You left out a few torque specs for bolts and sequences, so a person doing this would have to look that up elsewhere. Hopefully not to difficult. I know I'm working of a Ford 4.0 now. I've got several videas saved into a group for that vehicle. Two videos showing the whole rebuild of the engine, but I get good info from both, that the other leaves out. Then I find torque spec lists for everything, take the screenshot and add it to a folder of pictures, so I can make sure I'm getting everything done correctly.
Great video, very through. Thanks so much!
Absolutely! Thanks for watching.
And for your next trick, pistons and rings!
DONT YOU CURSE ME!
Very thorough step-by-step, appreciate it.
A couple of comments:
1. The Toyota spec'd bit for the head bolts is "10 mm bi-hexagon", not a "triple square" as you say in the video. The triple square does have the same number of points (12), is close enough to work, but each corner is 90 degrees. The 10 mm bi-hexagon bit has 60 degree corners, and the dimensions are also very slightly different.
2. Toyota recommends the head bolts be dipped in motor oil prior to install
Wow, never knew they made a special socket for this. I’ve always used a triple square, seems to fi perfect. Also I did omit the oil tip, but always oil them. Thanks for the update, and thanks for watching!
@@AutoScholarwithMrB Toyota's not alone in putting all their repair info behind a paywall. Very frustrating, doubly so with the prices the dealerships charge. I'm an armchair, duffer DIY'r, really appreciate these hands-on videos. Watched your brake accumulator video too; just hope ours hangs in there.
I chased down some of those missing torque specs you mentioned:
42:23
Exhaust manifold to engine torque: 15 ft/lb
It's heat shield: 9 ft/lb
53:32
Fuel rail hold-down bolts: 15 ft/lb
54:05
Water pump:
2 (35mm) bolts towards rear: 19 ft/lb
3 (15mm) bolts towards front: 15 ft/lb
57:00
Intake manifold: 2 nuts and 3 bolts: 21 ft/lbs
Throttle body to intake, hold-down bolts/nuts: 7 ft/lbs
EGR pipe to intake, two bolts: 7 ft/lbs
Nice work. I'd put a highlight on the engine mount removal lower stud nut removal. That's something easily missed and can really be tough to find.
good informations, nice and detail. thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Good vid to be fair but... The head bolts are reusable as long as they are still within spec. Removal of the head is the opposite of installation. Start from the outside bolts and work your way in. The head can crack if you undo one bolt all the way. Undo 45⁰ at a time until they are all loose. 👍
Exactly..was going to say the same thing. I've done several head gaskets and was prepping for this particular model and noticed removal was complete opposite in this video. My suggestion is to use this video so you have a visual of the tear down and reassembly. Go by repair manual for internal tear down and reassembly. Manual also states to oil thread bolts as does most manufacturers to ensure proper torque specs.
Thank you, sir🙏
Absolutely! Glad to help.
Professional !!!
May I ask why you're changing the head gasket?
How do you conclude that the head gasket needed replacement?
The Prius also has the coolant exchange near the catalyst converter.
How would you conclude that the leak isn't near the exchange near the catalyst converter?
Hello. thank you for the useful video , also after i'm done the job my car start for like 10 sec then stop with a massege said "check hybrid system stop the vehicle in a safe place".
also when the engine start it doesn't charge the battery like use to do. the check engine lights is on.. most of them is on ,when i connect my car to a scanner it doesn't detect my car at all.
please if you can helpe
Bro great video 👍
Thanks for watching!
Man, I need you to do my prius. I graduated from Augusta Tech and I work at Augusta University.
Heads up! This vehicle contains a boobytrap that can add days to your repair: The 17 gold colored bolts that hold the cams to the head are Torque To Yield (TTY) and should only be used once. None of the rebuild kits mention this and they don't include replacements either. Odds of breaking a bolt off in the head when torqueing to 20 ft lbs are about 50%, so flip a coin if you reuse them as you will need a bolt extractor if it lands tails. We had to contact a dealership to find the replacements as finding them online is extremely difficult.
Great vid! Really helpful! I followed your video and another video pretty closely and both vids only applied rtv on the outer edges of the timing cover.. It wasnt until i completed everything and only have remaining the oil/coolant fill, till i looked online at the repair manual that it says to place rtv at the metal circle that mates next to the two O-rings. I didnt notice this in either of the vids i watched and wonder if its critical that we didnt seal that? Have you had any issues having not sealing that part, or did you forget to add it to the vid and added it later? Your input would be greatly appreciated since im waiting to fire up the engine until i find out for sure its safe. Thanks!
hi bro just wanted to follow up on this, what did you do about the missing blob of gasket goo? was it a problem?
Now i managed to get the front cam at 2 oclock mark but when i try to put the timing chain on, the rear sprocket doesnt normally align. it wants to spring counter clock wise a tooth or two. that puts some tension on the rockers.... is that nornal. now that everything is put together.... it starts normally but at higher speeds the rockers/lifter noise can be heard. it never did that prior to this maintance.
Sounds like your timing is off a little. Did you get this figured out?
Did step by step and I have a bad misfire upon startup, I didn’t let it run that long. Timing chain seems great and rotates by hand easy. Timing chain loosens a little on one of the strokes, I can hear the timing chain squeal when it does this. I’m ordering a new tensioner and will re set the timing chain again to make sure it didn’t skip jump a link. Any suggestions?
Mr. B! The bit isn't a 12mm Triple Square, it's a Double Hexagon 10mm technically. Otherwise, great job as usual.
Yep, I have the correct socket listed, however I have used my triple square on these for years!
@@AutoScholarwithMrB 🙂 I've read they work OK as well, was wondering. Something to do with the angles and face interface isn't as complete with the triple square, though the outer points seat into the bolt grooves. Good to know. I practiced on a 150K 2011 Prius in the salvage yard and wound up investing in the timing cover with internals and complete head assembly to also practice spec'in out to Toyota specs and possibly rebuilding since I'm thinking I have everything other than those recall or TSB or whatever was special tools used for the valve spring clips. Doesn't seem that complicated unless having to machine and even then like small engines, probably can use a surface plate or high quality piece of glass with sand paper to surface. I just learned today the same lapping compound can be used for the valves and valve seats. That clip however. Wondering which is the better tools to use?
Triple square, or XZN, will have 90* corners, possibly very sharp. The Toyota spec here is bi-hexagon, or two hexagons offset by 30*; these have 120* corners, usually rounded off, not sharp. The M12 in the XZN spec does not actually specify any dimension (e.g., nothing about it is exactly 12mm, as you might think). From reading what works or doesn't work for people on this specific application, most have success with M12 XZN (and that is far more common that the bi-hexagon), many fail with an Allen (single hexagon), and of course the specified bi-hexagon works.
So I'd say it you have an M12 XZN, use it. But if you don't, and need to go and buy the special tool for this one job, get a 10mm bi-hexagon.
Great video, thanks.
Well said
Thank you for your info. I have replace the head gasket on my prius 2015 follow your video but after finish car started for bout 30 seconds and stop check engine cam on and have codes p0240, c0100 ,p3011 ... Need help ! please
What ended up being the cause? And how much was the fix?
13:31 - thank me later
Ha ha, that’s hilarious!
Ha! Got em!
Some European manufacturers recommend using anaerobic sealers on suraces like oil pans and timing covers. They are so much easier to work with, and wash away if the squeeze out to somewhere they shouldn't. Why would you not use anaerobic type sealant?
Anaerobic are for seamless metal to metal surfaces. It will leak at the headgasket and camplate gaps
This guy has been working on headgasket replace only but what about replacement piston rings and valve stems? If you don't do piston rings replace and clean the cylinders, piston rod will be bending and breakable because of some coolant in the piston rings. That will cause to dry and smoke to become sticky and stuck on the cylinders! If you dont do valve stems replace, the oil will go in exhaust and intake valves! The engine will be vibrating. Good luck to everyone!
lol, it’s a Prius dude. Nobody is gonna do a full rebuild on a Prius. we just want it to run. No 100hp hybrid is going to be bending any rods.
If it passes a comp/leak down then who cares?
I did this job and had two 10mm bolt left after. The bolts had a 9.8 on the screw…Where in the world do these go..?? I can’t seem to figure it out for the life of me.
Hi Mr. B, I just took my 2012 Prius (280k miles) to my local Toyota dealership and they recommended I get a whole new engine. Hopefully you can give me your thoughts. I had just taken it in in March and they attributed the rattle to a misfire in cylinder 1 due to old spark plugs. All of them got replaced and that helped for about 2 weeks. The rattle returned and now it’s a blown head gasket in cylinder 3. The tech sent me a video in which he advised “the cylinder block and/or head usually actually warp beyond specifications. So instead of just doing cylinder head gasket which would not correctly fix it because the specification on your block and/or head is out of spec, it will require replacement of the cylinder block and the head.” Which to me sounds like what he just said couldn’t be fixed due to the possible warping, but not sure. Maybe he just misspoke there. When he spoke with me in person he recommended the new engine since replacing only the head gasket could eventually cause the same issue due to being out of spec. Thoughts? Thank you so much in advance!!!
The only way to tell if it is warped is to disassemble, but I would be wary of a bottom end with that many miles on it. The choice would be to replace the engine with a rebuilt unit, find a used engine with less miles, or possibly finding another Prius. Have you replaced the HV battery and the ABS modulator before? Those are also high dollar failure points. If you have replaced both, a repair might be advisable.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB thank you so much for your quick response! I’m pretty sure the ABS modulator has not been replaced, but the HV battery was replaced less than 3 years ago. Do you have any recommendations for where to buy used engines? I’ve seen many people mention JDM engine depot. Also about how much would an ABS replacement be if I had someone do it? I’m trying to decide if it’s worth trying to keep the car. It hasn’t ever given me any issues aside from this blown head gasket 😕
@@guadamelon I have heard the usual on ABS is $1500-$2500 because the part is so high. I also recommend using new parts from Toyota on that. I have a video on changing it as well that goes into why they fail. As far as engines go, I have heard the JDM engines are the way to go but I have not dealt with them directly. I have used LKQ and they are reliable.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB thanks again, Mr.B. You have been extremely helpful, I appreciate it!
@guadamelon thanks for watching!
Thanks!
Thank you!
Looks alot harder than it actually is. I usually sell motors for blown headgaskets but this headgasket failure is not from overheating. Excessive heat cycles cause this. The 1st,2nd Gen had heat storage tanks to maintain engine temperature.
Mr. B excellent video on the Prius head gasket replacement.
Where exactly are you located? I need a head gasket job and I was wondering if I could bring you the vehicle thank you.
Unfortunately I am an instructor and I am no longer working on cars
None of the videos show torquing the crank bolt. Are they just doing it gutentight or actually doing 190 lbs ft
How different is a 2019 Prius? I have a mysterious coolant leak and it may very well be the head gasket since the tailpipe is blowing white smoke with each accelerator press.
@@billkeithchannel there is not much difference, the EGR system is different but the procedure is about the same. Definitely check the torque specifications on the fasteners because I think they are different.
Mr. B,
First, thanks for the time you spent on this video.
I,ve completed my head gasket job. I'm back together and won't crank or start......2012 Lexus CT 200.
If I try to start, all I get is a Check Hybrid System message. I've attempted to go into maintenance mode, but when I hit the starter, it just shuts back down.
I've hooked my scanner, and it shows now new codes.
Any thoughts??
Thanks
Make sure your hybrid plug is installed correctly.
@AutoScholarwithMrB thanks, I hadn't slid it to the right....now that issue is fixed, I'm getting a Check Hybrid System fault. If I go into maintenance mode, it'll start and run for 10 seconds or less and shut back down. Cleaned the MFS to no avail. Do you have any thoughts from here? Sorry to wear ya out on this.
Thanks
@@alanm6764 make sure the vacuum lines under the intake are tight and correct. If not that just double check all connections.
People online say you need to pre oil the camshaft, otherwise the oil pump won't work. You guys never mentioned anything about this.
Good morning Mr B I recently did a head gasket replacement on my 2011 Toyota Prius and it started up fine but not to long after it giving new camshafts position sensor reading and a misfire on cylinder one it started up fine and runs fine till it stars to give me a check engine light and doesn’t run right now didi do something wrong? I know that when you do a timing chain your to turn the engine a few times to make sure the timing marks match but here it’s not doable because of the chain but I’m getting these codes p0012 and p0031 did I do something wrong by not turning the chain to make sure it’s correct but it starts fine no shake no heating no coolant lost can you give me some ideas 💡 onwhat to look for I’m feeling real bad here please help
Sent from my iPhone
I have seen the VVT solenoid fail and cause these issues, maybe it is a coincidence that it went out at the same time.
Did you fix?
My prius have the following symptoms:
1- Engine shaking on startup,
2- Engine shake even in low rpm,
3- White smoke from exhaust pipe when driving downhill.
Is it a headgasket symptoms ?
Thanks
Yes, sounds like the head gasket may have failed. Is the coolant level low?
@@AutoScholarwithMrB Yes， coolant lose as well. Is it good to replace the engine or replace the head gasket?
@@汤志珩 if you have a lot of km an engine may be a better option.
At roughly 13:48 you mention the bolt that cannot be seen. How did you get that one off? I’ve been stuck here. Seems I need more hand clearance to reach it
It was not shown in the video
There is no way to get a good camera angle on it to show it. Have you tried a small wrench?
Is this also the same motor in a 2014 Corolla? The 1.8? It looks similar but I'm sure with the hybrid portion it was just built around with a different orientation
@@simonmolina2648 I think it would be, I don’t think they have the EGR and the cooling system is different.
I know step by step instructions can be very tedious, especially when filming as an expert like yourself and thank you for the video. That being *said,* you were a little vague on some of the steps when it came to identifying what should go where, especially toward the end. There were times where you said there were gaskets when that wasn’t mentioned at the beginning, and the end just seemed very rushed in general.
How can I remove the pulley bolt? The pulley turns as I turn the bolt. My attempts to keep the pulley from turning have been ... laughable
Fantastic video, BTW!
I assume you have this taken care of but if not you need to put it in park, turn on the manual cable brake and apin it off with an impact wrench. It spins counterclockwise.
just pry up a breaker bar (19 inch or longer), use a 19mm socket and have soemone crank the engine for a sec, it'll come right off... Easy...
I never done this half way i can follow aftee opening head civer it gwts tricky how muxh parts cost
The water pump torque specs are, long bolts 35mm 19 lbs-ft, short bolts 18mm 15 lbs-ft.
Question about silicone bead, when you put the silicone on the cam, you put it all around, is that the way to do it,because I saw another video and the guy didn’t go all around, he stopped where the timing chain side is, he said the oil goes in there and not to put it all around, but to me your way makes sense, please help clarify, because I am about to do it next week, also, do you use 1/2 inch breaker or 3/8 (is 3/8 from tekton tool set good enough or do I have to buy 1/2 ) thank you
The factory puts it all the way around so I do too. The head bolts are really tight so I would use a half inch breaker to remove.
Hi Mr. B, I just finished doing a head job on my 2010 Prius using your video as a reference. Is there a trick to adding the coolant back in? I've seen methods for bleeding the coolant system of air (I would assume that the hoses would be filled with air after a head job) ranging from just taking the cap off the overflow tank and adding coolant till it stops taking it, to what seem like, very complex procedures that require rigging hoses from one bleed valve to another. Can you shed any light on this question?
I use a vacuum filler but you can fill with coolant and run with the cap off for a while and most the time, it will self bleed.
How many hours the shop will charge for this job ???
I have a 2008 Prius. It the process pretty similar?
I get conflicting advice on cleaning the block, like don’t use razor blade or scotch brite pad, and then others say it’s fine. They make it seem like the head gasket is gonna fail if you rough the surface up too much with a pad 😂
Scotch brite is fine! I use a special 3M disk and a die grinder to clean mine but I do a lot of head gaskets. It shouldn’t take much to clean it. Thanks for watching! :)
@@AutoScholarwithMrB would it be ok to sand it with 320 grit wet dry on a flat block and then use a scotch pad to rough the surface?
So for timing chain if I align marks with colors is ok and for tightening the head bolts what are numbers and what tool I need
It's supposed to be a 10mm double hex but you'll be lucky to find one. A 12 triple square fits but the angles are different in the corners. Some people use Allen keys. An Allen is only a single hexagon the double hex is just two hexagons on top of each other.
49nm then 90⁰ followed by 45⁰
Thank you it was useful
How do you make the tensioner engage after installing it
How many miles on the 2013? Is it yours? I forget frm previous videos. VERY NICE/CLEAN! What state id this from. I ask because I live in rust belt (PA). Thanks! 👍 Already sub'd.
This is not mine, I have a CT200h! This is a friend of mine, and it has 147k miles. Thanks for the support!
you did not show the failed gasket. my old gasket had no signs of failure. not like what they show on the internet. smn explained to me, that the crack is very small, and this is why it was sporadic, and rare.
Can you upgrade to ARP head studs or something so it doesn't leak again?
I can’t say for sure, but I have never heard of anyone doing it.
Just replace the gasket every 200,000 miles. 👍
I took out vavle lifters.does it matter how they go.or I have a match hole on the lifter to hole on head.
Do you check the piston height to make sure there are no slightly bent rods? If so, how do you do that?
@@wpcote108 I don’t, but I’ve never had an issue with it. It is good practice to do so and I guess I have been lucky to never have had an issue. It is probably a good practice however. There are videos on checking “deck height” and that’s what you would need to do. If you catch this early enough it should not be an issue.
Ty for the video, I just completed my head gasket using this as a guide. I started the engine and it was indeed rough and smoky lol. But it went away and sounds like I have an exhaust manifold leak. I am missing one pin I lost and it sounds like a chopper motorcycle. I don’t have any engine codes so o don’t think it’s misfiring. ?
Pin? What do you mean?
@@AutoScholarwithMrB pin I mean the threaded bolt with the star head, a nut attaches it to the exhaust manifold
Just want to update, the reason why my shit sounded like open headers was because the manifold gasket had fell and only half of it was on Lol. So put it on correctly and tightened eveything down to 27 ft lbs as suggested, but I found that it smelled like exhaust still. So I tightened it even more and it improved smell to where I barely smelled it but I do smell something. I’m using a felpro gasket and it’s thicker than oem I believe so not sure how hard I have to toque it down but I have them torqued pretty good
@@radiospankdid you get the manifold gasket on without have to take the cams off and timing cover
@@lane5477 yes, I had to slide it down in there, it was tight and difficult but I had already put on Head gasket and torques down the head bolts so didn’t want to undo that. I pretty much lined up one hole on each side pressing down the gasket one side at a time
Anybody else get a lifter noise after repair? Sounds very noisy and wasn’t there prior. Wondering if I just let it run more
actually, you shouldn't put silicone around the left end of the head
Any tips on loosening the crank shaft pulley bolt without an impact gun?
Yes just use a deep 19 mm socket and a 18inch or longer breakerbar, have it set up against the left hand side of frame, and hit the start button for a sec, the crank will release itself. easy peasy....
Thanks for the Video, I used it to help remove and clean my EGR. Would you know a place in Augusta, GA that would work on a 2010 Prius? I have a feeling my head gasket needs to be replaced and even with the video I don’t feel comfortable doing it.
C&C Automotive is probably the best place around here for that.
Just followed your video to replace my head gasket. Problem now is the car won’t go into READY and thus will not start. I get lots of warning lights. How can I revive this thing?
Fixed it. When putting the hybrid battery plug back in, I pushed it in and flipped the handle to the left but didn’t slide the handle to the right at the end. I didn’t see it come out initially and had no experience with reinstalling it. Huge relief when I got that figured out.
Oh I missed your first notification, sorry! Yes you are not alone in that mistake, it is very common. Thanks for watching and sorry again for the late reply.
I traded my 2012 Prius in at Carmax before the head gasket blew and bought a 2020 Honda Accord Hybrid.
Wasn't clear or I missed it. Did you reused the head bolts?
No, never do that
What were the symptoms that the head gasket needed to be replaced ?
Misfires and missing coolant with no leaks. Heat stopped blowing warm (due to low coolant) was the one they were most concerned with.
@Auto Scholar with Mr B would shuddering, engine shaking at start up or low rpms be a same issue or something else? Thanks
@@courtgantry yes when these misfire they shake violently. If it does in cold normally that is a head gasket failing, but everything else should be ruled out, like coils, plugs, and injector failure.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB After replacing the HG only Prius it didn't look bad. I wonder if the EGR cooler was the cause of the violent shaking at start up?? Mine was COMPLETELY blocked solid!
@@jameshite9995 I have heard that doesn’t help for sure.
Does he use RTV
Head bolts go in dry?
There is another channel on here that is run by a Toyota certified mechanic that works for a toyota dealership and he states that any machining of the head is not recommended as the factory tolerances are so tight it would throw the timing off. What are your thoughts?
As long as you stay within the specifications that Toyota gives for machining, you should not have an issue.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB thank you. I’ll keep that in mind when doing the job. It looking forward to it but your video does inspire confidence. It’s my wife’s car so if I kill her car she’s going to kill me. No pressure but I’m not spending 3.5 k for this.
Do you recommend replacing the sprockets when you replace the timing chain? The VVT sprocket is a little expensive and I'm finding conflicting information online.
If there is any noticeable wear yes, but there normally isn’t.
excellent video. Did you lube or add some oil to the headbolts similar to Honda?
you must put some lubricant on the thread so all your twisting force goes to stretch the bolt, and not to fight the dry thread surfaces.
how much do you charge doing this? where are yo located at?
Do you have a list of parts you purchased to do this job?
Toyota or OEM parts: water pump, thermostat, timing chain set, head bolts
Felpro: head gasket set
I can put an itemized list together using Amazon links this week in the video description if that would help.
Yes. A Amazon list with links would be very helpful.
Thank you
Ok, I will try to get that up tomorrow. Thanks for watching!
@@AutoScholarwithMrB So? I don’t need them to be amazon links, I just need the numbers please.
@@jldpittman updated in video description. Did the update a while ago and it didn’t take, but it’s there now
How did you remove the crankshaft pulley bolt without the engine turning? Have seen people wedge a wrench and crank the motor but not sure how to do it the other way.
Impact gun.
Hi Mr B do you have to send the head into the shop?
I do to check for cracks and warpage.
Hi we recently did this job, but when we turn on the car it smokes. How long does that last?
It should smoke for a few minutes maybe out of the tailpipe and maybe a minute on the exhaust manifold due to grease getting on it while working. If it is white smoke or steam, there is a possibility the head or block is leaking.
Nice video. Where are you located and how much would you charge to do this work?
I am an instructor, I do not do outside work anymore unfortunately.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB ok ty