Sweet. I have a Martin 0-16NY styled after that early 1890's style. Lightly braced, I use Silk & Steel strings. Same slothead to take nylon or light steel.
Hey Caleb! Looking good. I am worried about the bridge plate. With all that cracking it might be cracked and also the way those strings were catching when you took it out makes me think it might be worn out already. Just some food for thought.
After starting my guitar repair service I have come to highly respect the luthiers work. Bigest bug-a-boo for me is plastic....anywhere!!! I seem to melt it anytime i get near it.
It looks like a terz guitar. They were tuned a third higher than normal. It will have been made after 1889, prior to that they had no position dots. Cheers.
Wow Caleb, if that thing was any smaller it would be a mandolin. It actually sounded better than I thought it would, and you are right about letting it acclimate a while before setting it up. I doubt that thing has a truss rod. Doesn't look like you have much saddle to work with to lower the action. It is what it is, it plays and that is all that matters. Some people will say a guitar is not playable if the action is a little high, but sometimes things can't be perfect, play the thing. That old WB is in good shape, no way I would do a neck reset. One tip though, those little suction cups are great for pumping glue into those cracks, with your lighted mirror you can actually see it come through on the inside. I would have used a couple more cleats, but you did a nice job.
awesome video 7 great job thumbs up. that is a neat little guitar. I'd like to own one like that. thanks for sharing. Happy New Year to you. btw, what gauge strings did you put on that guitar?
Interesting video. I hope the luthier allowed the glue to dry for 24 hours as stated in the instructions for Titebond Original, without subjecting the glue seam to any load. The instructions say there: first, squeeze with sufficient force for half an hour. I’m so afraid to breathe on them) (on glued joints) after I put them on glue for 24 hours. I will be waiting for your next video regarding this repair. Here the scale length of the guitar is reduced, and I don’t even know if 10-47 gauge strings will sound good on it since they will be even less tension than, for example, on a scale length of 650 millimeters, or 647 mm, where those have a high tension for the standard tuning for this guitar.
Hi Caleb - I felt this video seemed a bit rushed at times leaving us unsure as to what you'd actually checked out, or cleaned - such as the bridge plate, braces, neck angle, action, all the cracks, etc. I was left feeling it was a quickie to a limited budget. Not your best video I'm afraid.
Hi Caleb; I had the same concern as eddiegalyean about the bridge plate. Also, with that type of slots with the tuners through them in the head stock, they usually use nylon strings. Perhaps when it was made, they used gut strings. It probably doesn't have a truss rod.
note also the straight bridge, which would be typical for gut/nylon. however thin steel strings (i.e. 9s for electric guitar) have about the same tension as medium nylon strings. only thing to worry is the slots wearing out much faster. the brand Pyramid has a set of steel strings that is intended to be used for classical/nylon guitars. they are very thin with a wound G string and i think the gauge is also adjusted for intonation. i have had them for years on a similiar guitar like in the video tuned to E standart and never had any issues.
Do you think putting so many cleats in there will have an adverse effect on how resonate the top is? Seems to me that they'd impair the vibrational patterns of the wood.
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Nice to be able to watch you work and hone your skills. May you enjoy your work and have as long a career as you want.
Sweet. I have a Martin 0-16NY styled after that early 1890's style. Lightly braced, I use Silk & Steel strings. Same slothead to take nylon or light steel.
Hey Caleb! Looking good. I am worried about the bridge plate. With all that cracking it might be cracked and also the way those strings were catching when you took it out makes me think it might be worn out already. Just some food for thought.
The tilt of the bridge clamp makes me wonder too
After starting my guitar repair service I have come to highly respect the luthiers work. Bigest bug-a-boo for me is plastic....anywhere!!! I seem to melt it anytime i get near it.
merry X-mas all . happy new year soon .
Merry CHRISTmas!
CALIB, maybe try using suction cups for the glue instead of your fingers, works great!!!!
Happy New Year Caleb !
Caleb, thanks for this video here, Informative , You do Great Work, Cousin Figel
It looks like a terz guitar. They were tuned a third higher than normal. It will have been made after 1889, prior to that they had no position dots. Cheers.
Wow Caleb, if that thing was any smaller it would be a mandolin. It actually sounded better than I thought it would, and you are right about letting it acclimate a while before setting it up. I doubt that thing has a truss rod. Doesn't look like you have much saddle to work with to lower the action. It is what it is, it plays and that is all that matters. Some people will say a guitar is not playable if the action is a little high, but sometimes things can't be perfect, play the thing. That old WB is in good shape, no way I would do a neck reset. One tip though, those little suction cups are great for pumping glue into those cracks, with your lighted mirror you can actually see it come through on the inside. I would have used a couple more cleats, but you did a nice job.
Love you brother, just keep your cool!
Nice work, Caleb -- again!
Great job Caleb....love your videos!
Awesome work Caleb have a good new year!
I wonder if they make a bar clamp with the pads on a swivel. Maybe design one young fella.
"A really old Washburn " "in pretty good condition for its age "
I am not THAT old and I was in very good condition until recently.
lol
awesome video 7 great job thumbs up. that is a neat little guitar. I'd like to own one like that. thanks for sharing. Happy New Year to you. btw, what gauge strings did you put on that guitar?
Fun little guitar! Wonder how the action will develop under string tension.
The action will probably be high, and I don't think he has much saddle to work with, but just get it the best you can and let it rip.
Interesting video. I hope the luthier allowed the glue to dry for 24 hours as stated in the instructions for Titebond Original, without subjecting the glue seam to any load. The instructions say there: first, squeeze with sufficient force for half an hour. I’m so afraid to breathe on them) (on glued joints) after I put them on glue for 24 hours. I will be waiting for your next video regarding this repair. Here the scale length of the guitar is reduced, and I don’t even know if 10-47 gauge strings will sound good on it since they will be even less tension than, for example, on a scale length of 650 millimeters, or 647 mm, where those have a high tension for the standard tuning for this guitar.
with that much cracking in the sound board you might want to check the bridge plate.
Those parlour guitars look so small,
Hello from Beautiful British Columbia Canada 🇨🇦
Which gauge strings, elevens?
I like you and your work ethic.
Nice little parlour guitar,,,,
Greek philosopher.....Tom Petty ! man thanks for the laugh. Hope you have a great day and a good year in 2024. Greetings to you and family.
Hi Caleb - I felt this video seemed a bit rushed at times leaving us unsure as to what you'd actually checked out, or cleaned - such as the bridge plate, braces, neck angle, action, all the cracks, etc. I was left feeling it was a quickie to a limited budget. Not your best video I'm afraid.
Nice job, but I have a couple of questions though. Do you have any idea of the year of that guitar? Does it have a truss rod?
ca 1885, no tress rod
Got the first like and first comment. I know that means nothing, but still!
That does mean something, you were first.
Looks like there is finish under the bridge to me…?
👍👍👍
10th fret marker unusual
Tenor guitars have the 10th fret dot.
Hi Caleb;
I had the same concern as eddiegalyean about the bridge plate. Also, with that type of slots with the tuners through them in the head stock, they usually use nylon strings. Perhaps when it was made, they used gut strings. It probably doesn't have a truss rod.
note also the straight bridge, which would be typical for gut/nylon. however thin steel strings (i.e. 9s for electric guitar) have about the same tension as medium nylon strings. only thing to worry is the slots wearing out much faster.
the brand Pyramid has a set of steel strings that is intended to be used for classical/nylon guitars. they are very thin with a wound G string and i think the gauge is also adjusted for intonation.
i have had them for years on a similiar guitar like in the video tuned to E standart and never had any issues.
Many steel string guitars have slotted headstocks, so your comment might missinform.
Caleb Mills, I don't have telegram, so I can't text you on it.
Wow…unless you did it off camera…no repairs to or cleanup of the top and bridge prior to glue up…?!?
He said in the video he did.
He did say he did it off camera.
Do you think putting so many cleats in there will have an adverse effect on how resonate the top is? Seems to me that they'd impair the vibrational patterns of the wood.
So you are saying its better not to repair it? He saved that guitar for many more years of playing, and it sounds ok to me!