Freddy Mehedinteanu clueless ape I head studs are the same as ARP because they make the studs for for their specs . Another clueless muppet in the comment section also , the studs need to be stretched read the instructions with the studs . So many people get this wrong no wonder they have this issue with leaks or low compression
Freddy Mehedinteanu you said apexi not maxworx so much is it also there do they get the studs from then ? Do they made them in house or made by another company? Big difference. Also you mean a tapered end of the stud . You haven’t a idea on what your on about kid
When replacing the head gasket u should look into using gasket cooper spray which reassures a proper seal between gasket to head and gasket to engine block. I’ve used it on many head gasket jobs and haven’t had a failure yet. Hope this info helps.
Kevin Meijer tell me about i dont even rebuild rotary motor as much as adam rebuilds his sr20 and im allways 9k on my motor#premixdontfailmenowfingerscrossed
Hi Alberto. I read a lot lately about ARP stuts had to be retightened after a few warm cold cycles of the engine. So it's becoming a common problem with these head bolts....success on rebuilding it.
Destin Ginnis good luck find a sr20 neo cylinder head from a Nissan pulsar n15 two door altech tell alone find a cylinder head , some guy on gumtree had a engine for 5k AUS not to mention all the change need to make to work can’t use a normal sr20 intake . You haven’t a clue kid
Jordan Kuzich I’m sure he doesn’t. Do you know him personally? I guess not nor do I or I give a shit . More like in debt too those banking elite scum .
Had a very similar problem on my SR. Make sure that the oil pump (front cover) is exactly the same height as the block. If its even 1 thou higher than the block it will cause a head gasket leak to the front of cylinder 1 because the ring around cylinder won't be seeing full pressure as some of the head will be clamping on the high spot on the cover and not the block surface. Did they resurface the block with the front cover bolted on because they should have. My personal preference is to machine the cover separately and machine it 1 to 2 thou lower than the block deck surface, so there is no chance of it being higher even when silicone is applied.
That is a common cause of leaking on a number of engines including the SR, and like you say it is something people generally don't think about when they are decking the block. As far as I can remember (and that is questionable since I have stopped watching a lot of the mechanical stupidity going on) that the block deck has never, or at the very least not recently been fully decked flat with a nice smooth finish. When they welded the number one cylinder and touched it up (from detonation), it probably left a low spot on the block deck. Combine that with the fact that the finish on the block deck is often not smooth enough to seal a metal head gasket from the factory. It will seal a composite gasket just fine, but isn't smooth enough to seal a metal head gasket. If you going to bother skimming the head you need to do the block as well or your wasting your time.
Dodgy Brothers The machine shops check the block surface for flatness/condition an deck them if needed. U don’t deck your block every time u skim the head.
No you don't need to deck the block every time you deck the head, but if you go back a number of videos you will see the factory machine marks were quite pronounced (as they often are) and they are the likely cause for half of these sealing issues. Just because it is flat doesn't mean it will seal if the machined face has deep machine marks in it. If you do both at the same time you just increase the chances of it sealing. Because if one is out and you deck the other it can re-warp to form to the other.
I'm not a mechanic, but have heard metal HG's (cometic etc) require a better quality finish (tighter tolerances on decking) if being used. Sound accurate?
That's right Legotruck82. And it is the reason why a lot of metal head gaskets installations fail. The factory finish is perfectly fine for a factory gasket, but is a point of failure once changed to a metal gasket. Both the head and the deck need to be flat and super smooth to seal well.
ball bearings under headstuds in block for good preload, have head ported and combustion chambers opened up, open up the flow of coolant through the head (the stock t-stat housing shape looks worrysome). Has the head lost its square? Having the head straightened might help if its out of shape. Just my .02. Good luck homie.
Have Adam and you ever had a discussion of upgrading the head studs on the SR20 from the stock diameter 10mm to 11mm like the factory SR20DET blocks so you can get an extra 20-30% clamping force. Because like now would be a good time to upgrade them.
Yes and no in my opinion, the skyline has more hp off course, but they are a little worse as a drift car. Either are still fun, but for example in transitions the rear really wants to whip out on a skyline, an s chassis seems designed for drifting.
The S chassis was definitely not designed for drifting, it was designed for handling. It just so happens that the step from handling to drifting is not a big one.
Cant you deck the block where the cylinder wall is just slightly above the deck of the block to help with clamping force on the head gasket around the cylinders
No way to decide which one is better because they are both so different I do think it's time for a complete 240 overhaul since Adam has put so much time and money into the skyline and the Z that he should finally go through the process of giving the 240 a proper build from the wiring to over fenders that way it's finally done tidy and clean
I may be wrong but you might want to check your piston to head clearance, looks to me like the pistons have been hitting/kissing the head on the exhaust side judging by how clean/lack of carbon build up on the exhaust side of the chamber. It's a bit hard to judge from behind a computer screen though
well safety wise the cream set up is better the seat belts and roll cage is way better but the skyline is killer but he needs to get his turbo fixed or at least checked out .!!! but i wanna see the SR kick ass again . cant wait GO BIG BOOST!!!!!!!
What kind of head studs are you using? I'm assuming ARP? ARPs are so standard that few discriminate between different types, but the practical wisdom on my platform (Mazdspeed 3) is ARP 2000s SUCK. The stock head bolts literally and consistently hold way more power than them, and stockers are good to 500whp. ARP L19 and 625+ are great, though, and definitely an upgrade we use for 500-800+whp builds.
Question: Are you still helping your friend that was in Pro 2 last year with the BMW or and going to FD events? What’s the story on that cause I liked when you traveled and help out and also gave us a chance and viewer to meet you like I did in Texas FD last year
question for the q&a: would it be dumb to rebuild a low comp b20b? its just for a daily automatic car...i thought about doing it so i know the motor is good and fresh but i can buy an imported one for $400
My questions: 1. Is higher viscosity oil necessary for high performance engines? 2. How can a standalone ecu be installed in a car with can bus so that all daschboard/climate control functionality is retained? 3. Does the BMW prove to be reliable? What would you do differently if you started again from scratch with the bmw build? 4. What is the brake setup on the BMW, Adam's s13, Nicole's s13 and the skyline?
It should be checked with a straight edge and feeler gauges for sure. That's where they are going wrong. Not one have I ever seen and micrometers a vernier caliper. A dial bore indicator. Running 20 psi or so they should be having the engine fire ringed while it's at the machine shop. Especially since they keep having issues. And they should step up the size of the studs so they can really torque that head down good.
I think it might be time for a NEW head. And I never understood why you didn’t use the liquid gasket on the front like you’ve done the last 2 times...and Maybe a stupid question, but would it help to have the block machined along with the head?? Good luck tho, can’t wait to see how long it lasts this time.
I personally like the cream s13 better I want Adam to replace it then use this as his home CT car permanently until it’s beat to shreds and he makes his perfect straight body s13 again for FL. Great video big boost any update on your car?
If you watch the video back the 'milky' stud seemed a lot looser than the others, like it wasn't torqued to the same as the others. That'll explain why it would leak there.
Skyline and open the ring gaps a couple thousands for high boost will help that from happening again that’s why boosted engines do better rite before they blow try it u won’t be disappointed
That head has been warp since Adam has had the cream car he has always had overheating and coolant issues, that head is done don’t use that head Alberto
Thats the same spot as the head guide sleeve. I said last time that they were too long because you lost the originals and these came from someones garage. You guys never listen. I sure hope you checked them this time. These sleeves typically go into blind holes and bottom out. Every time you mill that surface of the head or block you must shorten those spacers to avoid the clamping force being hindered by that sleeve being bottomed out... my money says that this happens again
Just ran into your channel , looks like good work, there are too many lame content (vlogers) out there. i enjoy watching this building stuff when i nothing to do on my cars,, well theres is never nothing to do to them lol
Hey big boost u dropped something inside the motor I saw it fall in go back and watch man all that work u do I wouldn’t want it to be fucked again u feel me bud
Check the torque spec for your exact type of ARP bolts. Headlift might come from low bolt quality and not only from using the wrong torque spec last time you built the engine. Maby you need higher quality ARP:s? L19 or 625? Check the link and you I'll see what I mean. arpinstructions.com/generaltorque.html Regards from Sweden
I think you should get rid of that engine. Get the same 2JZ engine in Nicole`'s car. That car has broken down too many times. Thanks for the video. Take it easy.
I had same issue. Went apexi with headstuds torqued to 95ftlb. Hasnt pushed coolant since at 450whp.
Freddy Mehedinteanu you went all the way to 95ftlbs??? 😱
With the mazworx studs yes. I wouldnt try it with the arps lol.
Freddy Mehedinteanu clueless ape I head studs are the same as ARP because they make the studs for for their specs . Another clueless muppet in the comment section also , the studs need to be stretched read the instructions with the studs . So many people get this wrong no wonder they have this issue with leaks or low compression
Freddy Mehedinteanu clueless all arp kits have different spec’s , another wannabe car enthusiast
Freddy Mehedinteanu you said apexi not maxworx so much is it also there do they get the studs from then ? Do they made them in house or made by another company? Big difference. Also you mean a tapered end of the stud . You haven’t a idea on what your on about kid
Who else saw whatever fell into the engine @ 4:55
2nd cylinder exhaust side
Yes I saw that shit too definitely 2nd cylinder exhaust side
Lmao, came in here just to post this but yall beat me to it. Good eyes guys.
Yup, looked like it was a piece of the clamp at the end of the AOS line
You have damn good eyes.
Atleast there's a/c in Adam's garage
When replacing the head gasket u should look into using gasket cooper spray which reassures a proper seal between gasket to head and gasket to engine block. I’ve used it on many head gasket jobs and haven’t had a failure yet. Hope this info helps.
"I want it to sound like a rotary but not have rotary problems"
Adam 2K18
#famouslastwords
Kevin Meijer tell me about i dont even rebuild rotary motor as much as adam rebuilds his sr20 and im allways 9k on my motor#premixdontfailmenowfingerscrossed
Hi Alberto. I read a lot lately about ARP stuts had to be retightened after a few warm cold cycles of the engine. So it's becoming a common problem with these head bolts....success on rebuilding it.
On a performance engine that should always be done unless it has a mls gasket.
Any engine your supposed to go back and check torque on bolts😉
Just do a vvl head already ;)
i have done it cost a lot more money a bt yes vet is way better head
adam clearly has 0 issue with money, he builds like 3 cars at once with top of the range parts
Destin Ginnis good luck find a sr20 neo cylinder head from a Nissan pulsar n15 two door altech tell alone find a cylinder head , some guy on gumtree had a engine for 5k AUS not to mention all the change need to make to work can’t use a normal sr20 intake . You haven’t a clue kid
Jordan Kuzich I’m sure he doesn’t. Do you know him personally? I guess not nor do I or I give a shit . More like in debt too those banking elite scum .
he sabotaging adams sr so he will still have work to do
Hey Alberto jw have u ever used those lint free shop rags when working with engines and laying things out?
Had a very similar problem on my SR. Make sure that the oil pump (front cover) is exactly the same height as the block. If its even 1 thou higher than the block it will cause a head gasket leak to the front of cylinder 1 because the ring around cylinder won't be seeing full pressure as some of the head will be clamping on the high spot on the cover and not the block surface.
Did they resurface the block with the front cover bolted on because they should have. My personal preference is to machine the cover separately and machine it 1 to 2 thou lower than the block deck surface, so there is no chance of it being higher even when silicone is applied.
That is a common cause of leaking on a number of engines including the SR, and like you say it is something people generally don't think about when they are decking the block. As far as I can remember (and that is questionable since I have stopped watching a lot of the mechanical stupidity going on) that the block deck has never, or at the very least not recently been fully decked flat with a nice smooth finish.
When they welded the number one cylinder and touched it up (from detonation), it probably left a low spot on the block deck. Combine that with the fact that the finish on the block deck is often not smooth enough to seal a metal head gasket from the factory. It will seal a composite gasket just fine, but isn't smooth enough to seal a metal head gasket. If you going to bother skimming the head you need to do the block as well or your wasting your time.
Dodgy Brothers The machine shops check the block surface for flatness/condition an deck them if needed. U don’t deck your block every time u skim the head.
No you don't need to deck the block every time you deck the head, but if you go back a number of videos you will see the factory machine marks were quite pronounced (as they often are) and they are the likely cause for half of these sealing issues. Just because it is flat doesn't mean it will seal if the machined face has deep machine marks in it. If you do both at the same time you just increase the chances of it sealing. Because if one is out and you deck the other it can re-warp to form to the other.
I'm not a mechanic, but have heard metal HG's (cometic etc) require a better quality finish (tighter tolerances on decking) if being used. Sound accurate?
That's right Legotruck82. And it is the reason why a lot of metal head gaskets installations fail. The factory finish is perfectly fine for a factory gasket, but is a point of failure once changed to a metal gasket. Both the head and the deck need to be flat and super smooth to seal well.
ball bearings under headstuds in block for good preload, have head ported and combustion chambers opened up, open up the flow of coolant through the head (the stock t-stat housing shape looks worrysome). Has the head lost its square? Having the head straightened might help if its out of shape. Just my .02. Good luck homie.
Have Adam and you ever had a discussion of upgrading the head studs on the SR20 from the stock diameter 10mm to 11mm like the factory SR20DET blocks so you can get an extra 20-30% clamping force. Because like now would be a good time to upgrade them.
How many times you can resurface the head? For me it's time to jz swap.
Pd: the skyline is better than the 240.
his s15 has a 2jz, that might be why he did not swap already
Yes and no in my opinion, the skyline has more hp off course, but they are a little worse as a drift car. Either are still fun, but for example in transitions the rear really wants to whip out on a skyline, an s chassis seems designed for drifting.
The S chassis was definitely not designed for drifting, it was designed for handling. It just so happens that the step from handling to drifting is not a big one.
Depends how much they skim off it each time.
Love watching big boost fix boost
Do i need to remove the rocker arms lifters and shims if I have no intentions of sending head out
why a stock intake? Some benefits? Please explain, thanks
Just curious what tools, socket & sizes it takes to pull apart a sr20. mines been sitting for 2 years & needs a refresh ;)
What torque did the machine shop torque plate hone the block with?
Cant you deck the block where the cylinder wall is just slightly above the deck of the block to help with clamping force on the head gasket around the cylinders
That way you get more bite around the cylinder with going crazy on the head studs and have to worry about pulling a stud out if the aluminium block
Definitely Skyline ... Gotta get that VVL head lift and boost is the best combination
No way to decide which one is better because they are both so different
I do think it's time for a complete 240 overhaul since Adam has put so much time and money into the skyline and the Z that he should finally go through the process of giving the 240 a proper build from the wiring to over fenders that way it's finally done tidy and clean
Cream 240 is classic, channel history, awesome tuner build,
R32 is instant Boss title and will be legendary.
Both amazing cars
Another fantastic Video, Keep up the great work Alberto !!
Both cars have there pros and cons but I'm going to have to say Skyline wins my vote
Gotta love Alberto’s choice of music
I may be wrong but you might want to check your piston to head clearance, looks to me like the pistons have been hitting/kissing the head on the exhaust side judging by how clean/lack of carbon build up on the exhaust side of the chamber. It's a bit hard to judge from behind a computer screen though
@Bigboost what is a stock idle for a sr20 with a t28 turbo u know
well safety wise the cream set up is better the seat belts and roll cage is way better but the skyline is killer but he needs to get his turbo fixed or at least checked out .!!! but i wanna see the SR kick ass again . cant wait GO BIG BOOST!!!!!!!
Do you read the engine manual when you have to disassemble it?
What kind of head studs are you using? I'm assuming ARP? ARPs are so standard that few discriminate between different types, but the practical wisdom on my platform (Mazdspeed 3) is ARP 2000s SUCK. The stock head bolts literally and consistently hold way more power than them, and stockers are good to 500whp. ARP L19 and 625+ are great, though, and definitely an upgrade we use for 500-800+whp builds.
ARP torque spec on KA and SR is too light 60ft lbs heads lift happend to me on KA's in the past, i always torque ARP KA head studs to 70-75FT lbs now.
Question:
Are you still helping your friend that was in Pro 2 last year with the BMW or and going to FD events? What’s the story on that cause I liked when you traveled and help out and also gave us a chance and viewer to meet you like I did in Texas FD last year
Torque to 85-88, I have Tomei headgasket Arp bolts.
550whp with 31psi no issues.
question for the q&a: would it be dumb to rebuild a low comp b20b? its just for a daily automatic car...i thought about doing it so i know the motor is good and fresh but i can buy an imported one for $400
I like the way your editing is going
For normal size arp head studs u do 90 ftp
For half inch you do 100ftp.
Been fine with my tomei japan hg and 28 plus psi
My questions:
1. Is higher viscosity oil necessary for high performance engines?
2. How can a standalone ecu be installed in a car with can bus so that all daschboard/climate control functionality is retained?
3. Does the BMW prove to be reliable? What would you do differently if you started again from scratch with the bmw build?
4. What is the brake setup on the BMW, Adam's s13, Nicole's s13 and the skyline?
mine are arp and tightened to 90ft lbs as per there instructions. 65 ft lbs seems way too low, no issues here 420 break
How about the deck of the block does it need to be redone too ?
Good content I enjoy your vidz
It should be checked with a straight edge and feeler gauges for sure. That's where they are going wrong. Not one have I ever seen and micrometers a vernier caliper. A dial bore indicator. Running 20 psi or so they should be having the engine fire ringed while it's at the machine shop. Especially since they keep having issues. And they should step up the size of the studs so they can really torque that head down good.
hey big boost you should try eagle grit to clean your hands after work. gets all the black off works great!
I think it might be time for a NEW head.
And I never understood why you didn’t use the liquid gasket on the front like you’ve done the last 2 times...and Maybe a stupid question, but would it help to have the block machined along with the head?? Good luck tho, can’t wait to see how long it lasts this time.
poor sr always having issues
that makes me nervous.. im building one, my first one.
yea hope it works out hope you dont have as much problems
he should get the valvecover repainted or put on the red one in the kitchen again...
YOURE KILLIN IT BIG BOOST!!!
Much better with the music, now add Navo or someone they always made it funny along the way. Oh a d its Shims not Chims LOL. Suerte amigo, great job!
Cream car! It's the backbone of Adam's channel!
Adam was a TH-camr well before the 240 he doesn’t need it to still have plenty followers
So was his BMX stuff for a time. . .
I personally like the cream s13 better I want Adam to replace it then use this as his home CT car permanently until it’s beat to shreds and he makes his perfect straight body s13 again for FL. Great video big boost any update on your car?
I believe it is going under a lot of work to sort the bodywork out on the 240. I may be wrong though
If you watch the video back the 'milky' stud seemed a lot looser than the others, like it wasn't torqued to the same as the others. That'll explain why it would leak there.
do you work on rotaries as well?
Check the engine deck if it is still flat... the engine deck side of the gasket was the one that looked bad.
Adam's car is like a amateur dragster's car, it gets taken apart after every event
I love watching you work makes me tired
The skyline is technically better but I think we all love the cream s13 more
Skyline for sure. Should have kept the s15 SR20 for the 240.
Great work big boost
Increase the intake and the exhaust volume and polish it
What's better 2jz,1jz,sr20,or rb
Love the new Skyline!!!!!
No mention of the loose flywheel and the possible cause of it rattling around.
Skyline is way nicer than the 240 240 or are everywhere nice to see something different
Cream car baby, love the skylime but the flip ups man
Skyline and open the ring gaps a couple thousands for high boost will help that from happening again that’s why boosted engines do better rite before they blow try it u won’t be disappointed
Good video man
Big boost looks exhausted!
i watching something fall out of the valve cover into the head when you pulled the valve cover..
That head has been warp since Adam has had the cream car he has always had overheating and coolant issues, that head is done don’t use that head Alberto
Troll Hunter it has been to the machine shop already twice though?
great video Alberto...
Nothing beats the cream car
The skyline is a cleaner build i say you clean up the bay of the 240
Thanks for sharing this contain Godbless
What the heck. I feel like I should have had a mimosa and start dancing during that time lapse.
I think the skyline is better but I personally like the 240 more
I've actually seen the cream in person the cameras don't do it justice. Cream all day
You don't need to continue resurfacing a head as long as it checks out flat... otherwise you'll continue to change valve timing.
Cant you just swap in an m5x bmw 6 cyl in it before adam comes back?
Love these videos Big Boost! I want to see more dalmatian hands videos. LOL!
Dalmatian hands! Hahahaha
Skyline>240
The skyline seams to be running good but it's only been running for two weeks the dr always seems to be broken
Choosing between the s13 and the R32 is like asking parents who there favorite child is
Use Mazworks headstuds....
Get some ARP L19 head studs
Matándolo con la mecánica!!
Skyline all day. I hate that cream color. LOVE the dramatic cuts on the head removal . That was great!
Thats the same spot as the head guide sleeve. I said last time that they were too long because you lost the originals and these came from someones garage. You guys never listen. I sure hope you checked them this time. These sleeves typically go into blind holes and bottom out. Every time you mill that surface of the head or block you must shorten those spacers to avoid the clamping force being hindered by that sleeve being bottomed out... my money says that this happens again
Cream for the win
Just ran into your channel , looks like good work, there are too many lame content (vlogers) out there. i enjoy watching this building stuff when i nothing to do on my cars,, well theres is never nothing to do to them lol
What fell in the motor
The cream car has always has my hart the skyline is cool tho
Hey big boost u dropped something inside the motor I saw it fall in go back and watch man all that work u do I wouldn’t want it to be fucked again u feel me bud
Check the torque spec for your exact type of ARP bolts. Headlift might come from low bolt quality and not only from using the wrong torque spec last time you built the engine. Maby you need higher quality ARP:s? L19 or 625? Check the link and you I'll see what I mean. arpinstructions.com/generaltorque.html Regards from Sweden
do a Q&A
Time for a RB26, I like the Skyline better
The studs must be torqued to what the manufacture of the studs rec commends! Just get the head o ringed! This will some all of you're problems!
I think you should get rid of that engine. Get the same 2JZ engine in Nicole`'s car. That car has broken down too many times. Thanks for the video. Take it easy.
Rad EK nicole does not have a 2jz jesus...
Oops 1JZ. Not 2 JZ.
Why don't you guys put a 2j or ls or barra swap it?
cream car because it still has the Lone Star Drift banner on lol, but i'd rather have a skyline.
Good video
Nothing will beat the 240
4:58 somthing fell into the block 😂😂😂
look at 17:02 thad theet one is flat on left one
The cream car because its just a iconic car everyone knows
Skyline is awesome.