DrifterDavid, thanks for the video. I'd like to point out the way to properly bleed the hydraulic lifters. Check with page EM-46 in the S14 200SX (SR20DET) FSM at the bottom. You need a longer rod to be able to push down on the check ball inside the lash adjuster. This allows the assembly to properly channel oil internally. More air bubbles will blow out the side hole, and then you'll see old oil come out. When the dome top is firm and no longer collapses, then your lifter is 100% bled. Again, thanks for taking the time to do this video.
Great video man, you explain things well and everything is very easy to understand. I shall be following this method when putting together my redtop sr.
I wouldn't really say that's the most important but I didn't include it because I am running aftermarket camshafts and gears and they had to be degreed and that would have been another 45 minutes. But if people are interested in that I can make a video on how to do it. I am about to do it again for another engine I am building.
Yeah you can, you will also need to have the hole for the vvt bridgeported and put a plug in it. You should see the hole in the head right behind the timing chain tensioner. Have the hole threaded at machine shop and put a threaded plug in it and you can either block off the vvt holes and use s13 cam gear or loop it from the tensioner up to the hole in the head. Besides that you'll be good to go and you'll have a much better flowing head!
Just like rocker arm stoppers are put there to keep the rocker arm in place machining and setting it up for dual guides is an upgrade that goes the extra step to make sure that rocker arm Is planted.
Quaasim830 Id go ahead and get a full rebuild kit if it was me. Do your rings, bearings, seals, have machine shop rehone the cylinders, have the head cleaned and get new seals/guides installed, maybe new valves if the head needs it. Have them check to see if its square too and if not have them resurface the head. Also have the machine shop put new freeze plugs in the block when its apart. Do all that and it should go a long way! And thanks a lot DtoWnSux1
I have a SR20DET Redtop with a spun main rod bearing I already understand that I have to get the crank resurfaced and new bearings, but what else should I do to the engine or what do I do to the Head, Pistons, rods and other things. I want to keep the engine stock cause this will only be for daily driving so what else should I do while im in there will I have to rebuild the Head also
Very informative video with lots of great detail. Just out of curiosity, how is that engine holding up? I would like to do a full Tomei head build but some of those parts are so damn expensive. Just wondering how the OEM rockers are holding out on higher psi valve springs with bigger cams.
Al Alibaba if you keep watching I explain this a little later in the video....if you only watch the first 2-3 minutes then yeah would see how you could assume that.
Hey I broke a rocker arm in half in my sr20det and i have recovered the two peices the only thing I cant find is the 2 shims . It was on the exhaust side closest to the cam gears. So would they have fallen down into my sump?
The shims yes because they set the valve height but the rockers eh not really....and on an oem build honestly it probably won't make much difference with the shims either. When you start getting into power builds then you definitely want to make sure you have the shims in the right place.
Hey mate, im wanting to run an s14 sr20det head on an s13 sr20det block, what do i have to to to make it work? obviously the s13 block doesnt have the second oil feed for the vvt can i just unplug the vvt and fun the s13 cam?
Idk if this will get a response but ive looked around and can't seem to get a clear answer on shims. My setup for the head is bc 264 cams with bc springs and super tech valves. My question is, am I supposed to adjust the shims with the new setup or can I put them back where the came from and everthing will be good since the motor has HLAs or do I need to re-shim? Seems like people are pretty divided on re-shimming and not needing to
I see you have the dual rocker guide conversion how did you go about shimming them to the same height? Shaving the valve tips? Shaving the bottom of one guide to match the lowest of the 2? Or did you just use 3mm's throughout the whole head
I had to completely redo the every one of the valve stems having them ground down to match each of the guides instead of matching the guides to each cylinder. It was a lot of work to do, but now if I ever have to replace one. I just order the grooved shim, don't worry about the size since they are all the same thickness. I don't really recommend it unless you're using it for race application. Its quite a bit of work to get it correct. I suppose you could have the machine shop grind a specified amount off each one and label them so you know where each one goes. But in mine I didn't do that simply because if I ever lost one, I would have to go back to the machine shop and wait on them to grind another one.
Thats exactly the answer I was looking for I was unsure of which way I wanted to go with it.the motor is going in my s14 setup for nothing but drag.the motor is a s14 sr20det my head is in the machine shop now should be finished in about a week the setup is JWT S4 cams,2 tomei adjustable cam gears vtc was deleted,BC +1MM stainless valves, supertech dual 106lbs springs and titanium retainers kit, supertech valve seals,BC keepers, tomei berry ring valve seats,roller rocker sr20de lifters, supertech bronze valve guides, port & polish no polish on intake side, competition valve job, 86mm CP 9:0:1 pistons, Manley turbo tuff I beams, Darton sleeves, ACL Race series rod/main bearings WPC treated,new oem crank,Apexi head gasket,FullRace t4 twin scroll dual 38mm gated manifold, precision 6266 t4 twin scroll 1.00ar, pnt performance short runner intake manifold, pnt top feed fuel rail, pnt 75mm throttle body, id1300s,Tomei oil block, spec mini twin disc clutch, AEM EMS V2,Diff water pump block off plate, electric water pump, ls1 coil packs, and of course the dual guide conversion
Rocker arm stoppers won't save a motor... They prevent a rocker from popping off. (Which they are designed to do) So instead of popping off and shutting the valve, you'll pin the rocker in place probably breaking it and throwing metal chunks through the motor. The proper solution is a stiffer valve spring.
Ps Buddha Not sure what ya mean. The VCT on mine was deleted and swapped with s13 cam and gear so I couldn't really tell you. To run any larger cams you're probably going to need to delete it.
DrifterDavid right.. I was reading about the the VVT Issue having a rattle, due to the sprocket itself. Oil isn't rising as it should. I'm not to familiar with S-Chassis just trying to get as much info. Looking to purchase a front clip (s14) notch top. I Guess s14/15 come notch top (VVT) and I hear/reading many have issue.
Ps Buddha oh ok that I'm honestly not too sure on. I run a different oil pump in my front cover and rarely have any issues with oiling. and this one is actually running a dry sump so it really never has issues. Sorry couldn't be more help. I'd recommend an oil pump upgrade though if you're going to have it apart.
I have a S14 sr20det and I'm installing BC cam gears on my BC cams, what bolt did you use on the intake cam? Can I use a shorter bolt and leave my VTC unit out completely? I'd use my vtc unit and vtc bolt but I cannot get it separated from the gear...it's pressed on there good. Thanks
***** Are you using the s13 BC Cams? If not you will need to use at very least the s13 Intake Camshaft. The s14 one will not work with the vtc deleted. As long as you are doing that you need an s13 cam bolt....it is the correct length. On this one I am using both s13 cams, cam gears, and bolts. Hope this helped you! Good luck with your build!
***** Yeah if you're going to delete the vtc then you definitely should be running s13 coils. The s14 ones are timed differently so if you try to run them without the vtc you'll lag really really bad.....if it will even run at all. Trade em out for some 13's, get some 13 adjustable gears, and a 13 bolt for the intake cam and you'll be in business!
![Top End Long Block Assembly [Sr20det build guide]](/img/n.gif)
DrifterDavid, thanks for the video. I'd like to point out the way to properly bleed the hydraulic lifters.
Check with page EM-46 in the S14 200SX (SR20DET) FSM at the bottom. You need a longer rod to be able to push down on the check ball inside the lash adjuster. This allows the assembly to properly channel oil internally. More air bubbles will blow out the side hole, and then you'll see old oil come out. When the dome top is firm and no longer collapses, then your lifter is 100% bled.
Again, thanks for taking the time to do this video.
Great video man, you explain things well and everything is very easy to understand. I shall be following this method when putting together my redtop sr.
Igor Keating Thanks buddy, glad it helped you!
I wouldn't really say that's the most important but I didn't include it because I am running aftermarket camshafts and gears and they had to be degreed and that would have been another 45 minutes. But if people are interested in that I can make a video on how to do it. I am about to do it again for another engine I am building.
I really enjoyed this video, my motors already together but you really know alot of good information. thanks man
Welcome man, thanks for watching!
I'm nearly a decade late but this is a fantastic video. ❤
Thanks so much buddy!
Yeah you can, you will also need to have the hole for the vvt bridgeported and put a plug in it. You should see the hole in the head right behind the timing chain tensioner. Have the hole threaded at machine shop and put a threaded plug in it and you can either block off the vvt holes and use s13 cam gear or loop it from the tensioner up to the hole in the head. Besides that you'll be good to go and you'll have a much better flowing head!
Such an unreal build.. so much useful information.. shame your not in Australia or id be sending a motor your to way to rebuild for me:) great video
Lol thanks man, good luck on your next build!
Thank you for the detailed video, I appreciate it!!!
your OCD is much appreciated bro.
Just like rocker arm stoppers are put there to keep the rocker arm in place machining and setting it up for dual guides is an upgrade that goes the extra step to make sure that rocker arm Is planted.
Quaasim830 Id go ahead and get a full rebuild kit if it was me. Do your rings, bearings, seals, have machine shop rehone the cylinders, have the head cleaned and get new seals/guides installed, maybe new valves if the head needs it. Have them check to see if its square too and if not have them resurface the head. Also have the machine shop put new freeze plugs in the block when its apart. Do all that and it should go a long way! And thanks a lot DtoWnSux1
I have a SR20DET Redtop with a spun main rod bearing I already understand that I have to get the crank resurfaced and new bearings, but what else should I do to the engine or what do I do to the Head, Pistons, rods and other things. I want to keep the engine stock cause this will only be for daily driving so what else should I do while im in there will I have to rebuild the Head also
Very informative video with lots of great detail. Just out of curiosity, how is that engine holding up? I would like to do a full Tomei head build but some of those parts are so damn expensive. Just wondering how the OEM rockers are holding out on higher psi valve springs with bigger cams.
Good video man
good vid man! quick question about the shims and rocker, is it really crucial to keep them in order??
Al Alibaba if you keep watching I explain this a little later in the video....if you only watch the first 2-3 minutes then yeah would see how you could assume that.
Great video
Thank you!
Hey I broke a rocker arm in half in my sr20det and i have recovered the two peices the only thing I cant find is the 2 shims . It was on the exhaust side closest to the cam gears. So would they have fallen down into my sump?
Great video, thanks mate ;)
Welcome buddy thanks for watching!
The shims yes because they set the valve height but the rockers eh not really....and on an oem build honestly it probably won't make much difference with the shims either. When you start getting into power builds then you definitely want to make sure you have the shims in the right place.
curious why you have rocker guides on each valve rather than on every other valve..
It is converted to keep them in place better. Keeps you from breaking rocker arms.
Hey mate, im wanting to run an s14 sr20det head on an s13 sr20det block, what do i have to to to make it work? obviously the s13 block doesnt have the second oil feed for the vvt can i just unplug the vvt and fun the s13 cam?
Idk if this will get a response but ive looked around and can't seem to get a clear answer on shims. My setup for the head is bc 264 cams with bc springs and super tech valves. My question is, am I supposed to adjust the shims with the new setup or can I put them back where the came from and everthing will be good since the motor has HLAs or do I need to re-shim? Seems like people are pretty divided on re-shimming and not needing to
Thanks for the video. Very helpful
You're welcome man! Thanks for watching.
I see you have the dual rocker guide conversion how did you go about shimming them to the same height? Shaving the valve tips? Shaving the bottom of one guide to match the lowest of the 2? Or did you just use 3mm's throughout the whole head
I had to completely redo the every one of the valve stems having them ground down to match each of the guides instead of matching the guides to each cylinder. It was a lot of work to do, but now if I ever have to replace one. I just order the grooved shim, don't worry about the size since they are all the same thickness. I don't really recommend it unless you're using it for race application. Its quite a bit of work to get it correct. I suppose you could have the machine shop grind a specified amount off each one and label them so you know where each one goes. But in mine I didn't do that simply because if I ever lost one, I would have to go back to the machine shop and wait on them to grind another one.
Thats exactly the answer I was looking for I was unsure of which way I wanted to go with it.the motor is going in my s14 setup for nothing but drag.the motor is a s14 sr20det my head is in the machine shop now should be finished in about a week the setup is JWT S4 cams,2 tomei adjustable cam gears vtc was deleted,BC +1MM stainless valves, supertech dual 106lbs springs and titanium retainers kit, supertech valve seals,BC keepers, tomei berry ring valve seats,roller rocker sr20de lifters, supertech bronze valve guides, port & polish no polish on intake side, competition valve job, 86mm CP 9:0:1 pistons, Manley turbo tuff I beams, Darton sleeves, ACL Race series rod/main bearings WPC treated,new oem crank,Apexi head gasket,FullRace t4 twin scroll dual 38mm gated manifold, precision 6266 t4 twin scroll 1.00ar, pnt performance short runner intake manifold, pnt top feed fuel rail, pnt 75mm throttle body, id1300s,Tomei oil block, spec mini twin disc clutch, AEM EMS V2,Diff water pump block off plate, electric water pump, ls1 coil packs, and of course the dual guide conversion
Darnell lewis
Sounds like it'll be a fun build man!
Still around bud ?
Sorry never saw this, but yes.
Rocker arm stoppers won't save a motor... They prevent a rocker from popping off. (Which they are designed to do) So instead of popping off and shutting the valve, you'll pin the rocker in place probably breaking it and throwing metal chunks through the motor. The proper solution is a stiffer valve spring.
Have you had any problems with VVT/VCT Sprocket or what not?
Ps Buddha Not sure what ya mean. The VCT on mine was deleted and swapped with s13 cam and gear so I couldn't really tell you. To run any larger cams you're probably going to need to delete it.
DrifterDavid right.. I was reading about the the VVT Issue having a rattle, due to the sprocket itself. Oil isn't rising as it should. I'm not to familiar with S-Chassis just trying to get as much info. Looking to purchase a front clip (s14) notch top. I Guess s14/15 come notch top (VVT) and I hear/reading many have issue.
Ps Buddha oh ok that I'm honestly not too sure on. I run a different oil pump in my front cover and rarely have any issues with oiling. and this one is actually running a dry sump so it really never has issues. Sorry couldn't be more help. I'd recommend an oil pump upgrade though if you're going to have it apart.
I have a S14 sr20det and I'm installing BC cam gears on my BC cams, what bolt did you use on the intake cam? Can I use a shorter bolt and leave my VTC unit out completely? I'd use my vtc unit and vtc bolt but I cannot get it separated from the gear...it's pressed on there good. Thanks
***** Are you using the s13 BC Cams? If not you will need to use at very least the s13 Intake Camshaft. The s14 one will not work with the vtc deleted. As long as you are doing that you need an s13 cam bolt....it is the correct length. On this one I am using both s13 cams, cam gears, and bolts. Hope this helped you! Good luck with your build!
Thank you! No im using s14 bc cams 264. Maybe I should return them for s13 cams then since I want to delete my vtc.
*****
Yeah if you're going to delete the vtc then you definitely should be running s13 coils. The s14 ones are timed differently so if you try to run them without the vtc you'll lag really really bad.....if it will even run at all. Trade em out for some 13's, get some 13 adjustable gears, and a 13 bolt for the intake cam and you'll be in business!