This is exactly what happened in my pool bath. The plumber however was too lazy to backfill the offset flange with cement, so the flange outer ring was not attached to anything. Worked okay for a few years until a crack developed in the flange from the toilet movement due to an unfastened and unsupported flange. So now it has been my pleasure to go back and rectify his “crappy” work.
Exactly what Im dealing with. Offset flange, chipped out concrete leaving big void when original was installed, roots from effing palm trees in back yard below flange. So I had to clean out around the pipe, remove the old rotted sheet metal steel flange. vacuum out the hole and fill with Cement All. Now to attach repair ring to Cement All with heavy stainless screws and install the toilet .
Loved watching the toilet flange offset video! Great presentation and love the music! Currently getting set to do just that.. 6" to clear the back wall so I've got some major digging ahead!!
How do you ensure the height of the flange is correct if you're setting the flange on the concrete sub-floor and not the finished floor (tile)? I thought the flange needs to be on top of the finished floor. I have to do this exact same fix. My rough plumbing is not centered in and I have to move the pipe/flange 1.5" to the side. This video was super helpful. Time to start busting concrete.
Hello Zachary. It is hard to get the flange to exactly the right height if the floor is not there. At the same time, this repair needs to be done before the tile is in. If the flange is a little lower than the tile, you can add an extra bowl wax to ensure the seal. Or you might experiment with spacing the flange up. If you keep it up 1/2" above the concrete you would not be too far off. But you want to make sure that the flange is secured and will not move. So I prefer to just deal with a low flange. Glad this was helpful!
This helps. But if you do have to break the concrete or cement and cut the PVC, I recommend, if space or floor permit, you dig deeper and wider and modify the PVC pipe to point up to the exact spot and use regular flange. With the offset flange, the wax somehow break easily and cause filthy leak.
My toilet tank is too close to the wall in a finished bathroom (new construction). As a result, the tank top is not seated properly. Is this an option to move the toilet forward 1 to 2 inches? Thank you.
Several options for you. Option 1: 10" rough toilet. Most toilets are made for a flange that centers 12" from the wall. However, manufacturers do produce a version of some of their toilets that are made for flanges that are as close as 10" from the wall. Sometimes they modify the bowl, or just produce a more narrow tank that would fit on the same bowl. You might look into those options for the toilet you have, or replace the toilet. Option 2: tear into the floors or ceilings below to move the toilet flange by repiping. Not fun! But also not impossible. Option 3: Ignore the lid. Put something decorative on top so it is less noticeable. I recommend option 1.
Hello. Thanks for watching. Yes, the offset flange should help you move the center over one inch. As you install the flange, you can measure from the wall and turn it to a position that places the center where you want it.
Hi Tom, this is an excellent video. My problem is similar to John Paul's. The toilet flange totally rusted away (home is 22 years old). The subfloor/foundation is concrete and the flooring is ceramic tile. The offset pipe has a lip on it and is about 1/2" above the tile. I have a few questions. 1. Did I observe correctly that flange screws (brass) were installed in the wet cement, which means no drilling after the concrete sets, because they are set into the cement. If in the future the flange had to be replaced again, would they screw out? 2. Which flange is best for this repair? 3. Do I need to address the flange being 1/2" above the tile flooring after install, if so, what do I need to do? Thanks
Hello. Good questions. 1. Yes. I cemented the brass screws in. I made that up. You could just pour cement and drip in some anchors. But I like my method. It would be more involved later. Those brass screws will not be coming out without breaking cement again. But the brass should last a long time which is why I used them. 2. Flange will depend on what type and size of pipe you have. If you don’t need to change the center then you will not need an offset flange. The most important thing will be to make sure it is anchored well. You can purchase metal repair flanges that you can anchor in without breaking out cement if you are just needing to repair the flange. 3. If your flange is above the floor, you can use a single wax. If it holds the toilet up a little bit then you can add shims, but I try not to shim more than 1/4”. The repair flange I mentioned would be tight to the tile. Most plumbing suppliers would carry those of you are looking for one. Good luck!
Thanks working on framing my basement and there was one 1/2 bath where the back wall was finished in front of a drain pipe for the sink, but put the toilet flange at 9.5", so one i was mad at the plumber for doing this but he must have thought well i can move it out with the methods you have shown here so now i am not going to move a wall for them lol.
Breaking out cement is common experience for plumbers who are not careful about getting the pipes where they should be the first time. Thanks for watching!
What type of concrete do you use? Is it a fast set? I have to install an offset flange. Your mix looks a little wet. I'd like to do the same so it flows better.
Hello. Thanks for watching. I just use Quikcrete from Lowe's. It was probably a bit wetter than they would recommend, but I am not the best at guessing proportions. In this case, I agree that it fills in well when it is wet.
My moron of a plumber was out 6 inches to one side leaving just 12 inches from the centre of the drain to the wall. He tried to point the finger but unlucky for him Set out is 100%. Slab is 100 %. Framing is 100% correct. No-one to blame but him not being able to use a tape measure and a string line before the pour.
Actually, they did. It turned out nice. Any suggestions on what how to do it better? If you are referring to the second half of the video, they put the frame wall in the wrong place. It was bearing the stairs so they refused to move it. I really do try hard to get my pipes in the right place. I check and double check measurements, but sometimes things happen that are out of a plumber's control. I do my best to make things right if I mess up.
Agreed! I've seen some shockingly bad amateur work, and that cut ranks among the worst. If he's a pro, he should be embarrassed. And DIY'ers should look elsewhere for tips & advice.
This is exactly what happened in my pool bath. The plumber however was too lazy to backfill the offset flange with cement, so the flange outer ring was not attached to anything. Worked okay for a few years until a crack developed in the flange from the toilet movement due to an unfastened and unsupported flange. So now it has been my pleasure to go back and rectify his “crappy” work.
That’s to bad. It’s true that the key to keeping the toilet from moving is a solid flange.
Exactly what Im dealing with. Offset flange, chipped out concrete leaving big void when original was installed, roots from effing palm trees in back yard below flange. So I had to clean out around the pipe, remove the old rotted sheet metal steel flange. vacuum out the hole and fill with Cement All. Now to attach repair ring to Cement All with heavy stainless screws and install the toilet .
Exactly what I'm doing today which lead me to the video😡.
Loved watching the toilet flange offset video! Great presentation and love the music! Currently getting set to do just that.. 6" to clear the back wall so I've got some major digging ahead!!
Thanks for the feedback! You’ve got this!
Some off set toilet flanges seem more restrictive than others and can create a restriction to a loaded flush.
True statement. Thanks for watching.
Where you located? I'm a service plumber wanting to master dwv installs. Need more info on dwv!
I am located in Utah.
How do you ensure the height of the flange is correct if you're setting the flange on the concrete sub-floor and not the finished floor (tile)? I thought the flange needs to be on top of the finished floor. I have to do this exact same fix. My rough plumbing is not centered in and I have to move the pipe/flange 1.5" to the side. This video was super helpful. Time to start busting concrete.
Hello Zachary. It is hard to get the flange to exactly the right height if the floor is not there. At the same time, this repair needs to be done before the tile is in. If the flange is a little lower than the tile, you can add an extra bowl wax to ensure the seal. Or you might experiment with spacing the flange up. If you keep it up 1/2" above the concrete you would not be too far off. But you want to make sure that the flange is secured and will not move. So I prefer to just deal with a low flange. Glad this was helpful!
Uh I'm late to the party but wouldn't an inside pipe cutter be easier than using a sawzall?
That’s a great option. Just watch out that the inside cutter does not go down the drain.
Thank you for those critical dimensions and citing the relevant code. Excellent.
Glad it was helpful!
This helps. But if you do have to break the concrete or cement and cut the PVC, I recommend, if space or floor permit, you dig deeper and wider and modify the PVC pipe to point up to the exact spot and use regular flange. With the offset flange, the wax somehow break easily and cause filthy leak.
That is a good option. Thanks!
Why does wax on the offset flange break apart easily?
Code does not allow you to just stick the rock back in and pour cement. Rebar is required to have a sable repair in the floor
Serious question s im about to have to do this....why not just buy the one that fits inside the drain pipe?
The outlet does fit inside of a pipe, but it is necessary to remove the material from the existing pipe to provide room for the offset.
Dude this is rad! You rock. Thanks for sharing
Glad you liked it!
Good job sir ,pipe ke dono dewar se duri batao
Thanks for watching!
What is the brand of toilet flange. Please share the catalog
There are a variety of options. Charlotte Pipe is good. You should do a search for specs online.
My toilet tank is too close to the wall in a finished bathroom (new construction). As a result, the tank top is not seated properly. Is this an option to move the toilet forward 1 to 2 inches? Thank you.
Several options for you.
Option 1: 10" rough toilet. Most toilets are made for a flange that centers 12" from the wall. However, manufacturers do produce a version of some of their toilets that are made for flanges that are as close as 10" from the wall. Sometimes they modify the bowl, or just produce a more narrow tank that would fit on the same bowl. You might look into those options for the toilet you have, or replace the toilet.
Option 2: tear into the floors or ceilings below to move the toilet flange by repiping. Not fun! But also not impossible.
Option 3: Ignore the lid. Put something decorative on top so it is less noticeable.
I recommend option 1.
My toilet is 1 inch too far from wall but have a tight space between sink and tub would this work
Hello. Thanks for watching. Yes, the offset flange should help you move the center over one inch. As you install the flange, you can measure from the wall and turn it to a position that places the center where you want it.
Hi Tom, this is an excellent video. My problem is similar to John Paul's. The toilet flange totally rusted away (home is 22 years old). The subfloor/foundation is concrete and the flooring is ceramic tile. The offset pipe has a lip on it and is about 1/2" above the tile.
I have a few questions.
1. Did I observe correctly that flange screws (brass) were installed in the wet cement, which means no drilling after the concrete sets, because they are set into the cement. If in the future the flange had to be replaced again, would they screw out?
2. Which flange is best for this repair?
3. Do I need to address the flange being 1/2" above the tile flooring after install, if so, what do I need to do?
Thanks
Hello.
Good questions.
1. Yes. I cemented the brass screws in. I made that up. You could just pour cement and drip in some anchors. But I like my method. It would be more involved later. Those brass screws will not be coming out without breaking cement again. But the brass should last a long time which is why I used them.
2. Flange will depend on what type and size of pipe you have. If you don’t need to change the center then you will not need an offset flange. The most important thing will be to make sure it is anchored well. You can purchase metal repair flanges that you can anchor in without breaking out cement if you are just needing to repair the flange.
3. If your flange is above the floor, you can use a single wax. If it holds the toilet up a little bit then you can add shims, but I try not to shim more than 1/4”. The repair flange I mentioned would be tight to the tile. Most plumbing suppliers would carry those of you are looking for one.
Good luck!
Thanks working on framing my basement and there was one 1/2 bath where the back wall was finished in front of a drain pipe for the sink, but put the toilet flange at 9.5", so one i was mad at the plumber for doing this but he must have thought well i can move it out with the methods you have shown here so now i am not going to move a wall for them lol.
Breaking out cement is common experience for plumbers who are not careful about getting the pipes where they should be the first time.
Thanks for watching!
I have to move 5 over in a bad townhouse rough-in. Radiant under floor. How long did 1 take you?
Took about six hours not including time at suppliers. I worked on it for two days.
Just did this but sluggish flush after a week possible due to poor air backflow, air trapped.
Could be venting issues or problems farther down the drain.
What type of concrete do you use? Is it a fast set?
I have to install an offset flange. Your mix looks a little wet. I'd like to do the same so it flows better.
Hello. Thanks for watching. I just use Quikcrete from Lowe's. It was probably a bit wetter than they would recommend, but I am not the best at guessing proportions. In this case, I agree that it fills in well when it is wet.
My moron of a plumber was out 6 inches to one side leaving just 12 inches from the centre of the drain to the wall. He tried to point the finger but unlucky for him Set out is 100%. Slab is 100 %. Framing is 100% correct. No-one to blame but him not being able to use a tape measure and a string line before the pour.
Bummer. Measurements are critical. Can’t say I’ve never messed up, but I will own it when I do.
Toilet offset flange reduces the pipe diameter
True
Correct but most toliet drains are stubbed up at 4 inches so u should have enough space
absolutetly!👍good job!
Thanks a lot!
First of all, what a hack. Second I hope they're not putting down tile in that bathroom
Actually, they did. It turned out nice.
Any suggestions on what how to do it better?
If you are referring to the second half of the video, they put the frame wall in the wrong place. It was bearing the stairs so they refused to move it. I really do try hard to get my pipes in the right place. I check and double check measurements, but sometimes things happen that are out of a plumber's control. I do my best to make things right if I mess up.
Agreed! I've seen some shockingly bad amateur work, and that cut ranks among the worst. If he's a pro, he should be embarrassed. And DIY'ers should look elsewhere for tips & advice.
Good info, ditch the music in your future videos
Noted!
Could do without the annoying music.
I understand. Thanks for watching.