In our area we are required to use PVC Cleaner before using the PVC Cement. The cleaner is dyed purole and the cement is dyed orange so the inspector can see both were used. The cleaner removes the shiny hard finish on the pipe so that the cement penetrates deeper into the pipe and fitting resulting in a stronger joint.
I would have brought the toilet flange out to 12" from the wall,and made your offset in the basement. In Florida, our houses are on slabs so we don't have the luxury that you do. Nice work.
Thank you for the trouble of filming this. I am needing to move a toilet a tile-thick over. It's touching the wall without tile now, so it's just a little bit. I think the offset flange would do it just nicely.
In addition to what Walter said about the PVC cleaner/primer. At the 9:50 mark when you're bolting the bowl to the floor you forgot to mention/show putting the plastic bases on under the washer and nut, so you can attach the bolt cover caps.
In addition to what Walter said about the PVC primer/cleaner, at the 9:50 mark, you forgot to mention/show installing the plastic base on the bowl mounting bolt under the washer and nut to attach the bolt cover too.
@MajedisMyName If your toilet needs to shift in any direction roughly 2 inches an offset flange would work for that. If you need to shift it more than that, you would need to change the PVC piping with 30 degree fittings. Good luck!
Best to shut off water at the in house main or the curb pit meter, if your area has those. The fixture stop valves often fail if over 15, 20 years old. Use a shop vac to get the water out fast and easy, you can also pull the fill valve and drain the tank in a bucket or pan, after flushing.
It might be silly but I like to also use the fixture valves so I know they are operational. They are the faster, easiest valves to get to if you ever have an overflow. I do like you comment about removing the fill hose to drain the tank.
The toilet flange must be place over the finished tile, not on the subfloor. Your toilet flange is installed too low and it will create a leak unless you use an extra thick wax or install an extension. This was a good opportunity to correct the height but you missed the chance… my 2 cents.
@andyallen1772 good point about installing the flange on top of the finished floor, you are correct. I did use an extra large wax ring and have not had a problems. This might have been an issue with the stock ring. Thanks for the comment.
id wouldnt use a wax ring with plastic horn and an offset flange, the plastic horn runs into the the slanted part of the flange, you can trim the plastic or just not used a horned wax ring
Yeah I could have done a new elbow, connector and straight section but it would have been more new connections and more pieces. The offset was easier. Do whatever way you feel is easier.
In our area we are required to use PVC Cleaner before using the PVC Cement. The cleaner is dyed purole and the cement is dyed orange so the inspector can see both were used. The cleaner removes the shiny hard finish on the pipe so that the cement penetrates deeper into the pipe and fitting resulting in a stronger joint.
Great catch. Thank you. I am going to pin your comments so others can see it.
I would have brought the toilet flange out to 12" from the wall,and made your offset in the basement. In Florida, our houses are on slabs so we don't have the luxury that you do. Nice work.
Thank you for the trouble of filming this. I am needing to move a toilet a tile-thick over. It's touching the wall without tile now, so it's just a little bit. I think the offset flange would do it just nicely.
In addition to what Walter said about the PVC cleaner/primer. At the 9:50 mark when you're bolting the bowl to the floor you forgot to mention/show putting the plastic bases on under the washer and nut, so you can attach the bolt cover caps.
Ohhhh noooo it's Mr Bill! 😀
In addition to what Walter said about the PVC primer/cleaner, at the 9:50 mark, you forgot to mention/show installing the plastic base on the bowl mounting bolt under the washer and nut to attach the bolt cover too.
Thank you, my toilet isn't in the middle and would like to move it 10 cm. to the right. Does the offset help out?
@MajedisMyName If your toilet needs to shift in any direction roughly 2 inches an offset flange would work for that. If you need to shift it more than that, you would need to change the PVC piping with 30 degree fittings. Good luck!
Best to shut off water at the in house main or the curb pit meter, if your area has those. The fixture stop valves often fail if over 15, 20 years old. Use a shop vac to get the water out fast and easy, you can also pull the fill valve and drain the tank in a bucket or pan, after flushing.
It might be silly but I like to also use the fixture valves so I know they are operational. They are the faster, easiest valves to get to if you ever have an overflow. I do like you comment about removing the fill hose to drain the tank.
The toilet flange must be place over the finished tile, not on the subfloor. Your toilet flange is installed too low and it will create a leak unless you use an extra thick wax or install an extension. This was a good opportunity to correct the height but you missed the chance… my 2 cents.
@andyallen1772 good point about installing the flange on top of the finished floor, you are correct. I did use an extra large wax ring and have not had a problems. This might have been an issue with the stock ring. Thanks for the comment.
I did the offset flange install but I keep leaking on one side. On the back side it stays to trickle. It’s been stuck like that for a year
id wouldnt use a wax ring with plastic horn and an offset flange, the plastic horn runs into the the slanted part of the flange, you can trim the plastic or just not used a horned wax ring
Perhaps that could be a problem if you have a deep plastic horn but in this case it didn’t restrict the wax from sitting flush on the flange.
You didn’t say anything about how “flush” the flange should be with height of floor or tile.
Just saw this and you could have got a toilet with a 10in. from wall to center at Home depot and not do all this extra work.
Yup, not a great toilet pick by me. I also wish I bought a shorter one.. important details to look for when purchasing your next one
You would think these people would make there on video (better) vs downing yours
I agree, some of the comments aren’t needed but on the bright side, they all help the video get noticed. So I’ll take it haha.
Always use primer before cement. Gosh...
or sandpaper ?
You not using gloves and being so Willy nilly with a toilet flange is nuts
You just gotta wash your hands before you lick your fingers like those old Doritos commercials. But yeah, guess I could have worn gloves.
Yeah, the first thing I noticed and remained on my mind the entire time of the video. Could've worn gloves. LOL.
Where are you gloves dude? Cross- contaminate. Go fix a sandwich now.
All that room and access from the basement you didn’t even need an offset flange.
Yeah I could have done a new elbow, connector and straight section but it would have been more new connections and more pieces. The offset was easier. Do whatever way you feel is easier.