Thanks! Can u tell me your set up for the tablet and pc for the Pico. I wanna use the same. I'm a Lexus diag tech. I must say the speed u work at I'm extremely impressive. You're my favorite channel now!
Thank you so much! I use a Dell latitude 7212 tablet. I have the Jarhead Diagnostic adapter that screws into the back and holds the scope. I would also recommend buying his 1 ft cable for the scope. I recently have been having issues with my pc so I sometimes use my other computer with my scope.
Man this aftermarket crap is always a mess, I've personally dealt with these situations & it will always be an aftermarket module causing all the trouble😉 Thanks for sharing BRO😍
Yup its always aftermarket stuff people love to throw in their cars and after that tech guy is going to be blamed for not fixing and finding issues in one shot....cheers sir
Awesome fix. Aftermarket crap strikes again! When I saw the added LED on the dash blinking I was thinking 'aftermarket alarm" as the cause. The new truck looks great. Could you do a walk around video of the new setup?
Interesting wiring diagram. Seems like the switch connections are redundant. I'm guessing the switch was set up so the power to the load side of the relay was connected first/disconnected last leaving the relay to switch the heavy current. But the switch was still there as a backup/safety.
I had a similar year camry or maybe corolla that had a bad starter, but only when it was hot. It would crank fine cold, but when the engine was hot, it wouldnt crank. Had signal and power but the starter wouldnt turn when hot. That was fun to troubleshoot.
The LED lights at the bottom of your Uactivate indicate which pin of the control side of the relay is power. In your case the red LED light indicated that pin 86 was the power side. If the LED light was green, it means that pin 85 is the power side. If there is no LED lit up, it means that the circuit is open or the relay control driver is not activated.
@@advancedleveldiagnostics no sir, the adapters you have on your test drive, light bulb leads, dvom test leads where they are stackable. Like scope leads. Where did you get them, and do you perfect them over the clamp style clip your test light came with and like them for all other testing. Thanks!!
@@WeakPiggy The adapters on my scope leads came like that; they are pico. I modified the leads on my test light with that fitting. I got it from Amazon amzn.to/48AzYKQ I like them better than the clip as they are much more versatile and I can put what ever attachment I want on it.
The light on the bottom of the ase u-activate tool is for the coil on the relay. When that light is on that means there is current running through where the coil should be. The fact that the light is on when on when not trying to start the vehicle indicates something front with the control side of the relay.
One is for power side switched clip the other is ground side switched. Remember they are LEDs you have to have two diodes to cover both possible flows of current. It was hard to tell on the video but it looked like the leg was on constantly then when you tried to start it the Led would brighten. Very weird.
I like the u activate but it’s like a rubics cube for the brain with the lights. I still don’t get it all . Like who’s on first who’s on second. what’s color means what? Instructions suck
And look at the that he wasted trying to do things quickly.... If you would have just took that under panel down to begin with he would have found the the solution much quicker
Check out my No Crank playlist for more videos like this.
th-cam.com/play/PLm-yrX2L5IDaXLqyfFeqcQgi4O95x55jh.html
Excellent repair. Never be embarrassed finding faults like that the are the most difficult 👊🏻
Thanks! Can u tell me your set up for the tablet and pc for the Pico. I wanna use the same. I'm a Lexus diag tech. I must say the speed u work at I'm extremely impressive. You're my favorite channel now!
Thank you so much! I use a Dell latitude 7212 tablet. I have the Jarhead Diagnostic adapter that screws into the back and holds the scope. I would also recommend buying his 1 ft cable for the scope. I recently have been having issues with my pc so I sometimes use my other computer with my scope.
aftermarket crap!
love the pace of your diags...not a minute to waste vibe keeps it real
Thanks!
I seriously hate these cheap aftermarket systems! Awesome work on find and repair. Thanks for sharing!
At 6:30 you moved through the matrix like Neo to catch that half of the switch... Nice....
😂 Thanks for watching!
Thought was a Toyota camry, no a Toyota matrix 😂
That one deserves a coffee bud!
Thanks so much!
Man this aftermarket crap is always a mess, I've personally dealt with these situations & it will always be an aftermarket module causing all the trouble😉
Thanks for sharing BRO😍
Yup its always aftermarket stuff people love to throw in their cars and after that tech guy is going to be blamed for not fixing and finding issues in one shot....cheers sir
Thanks!
Awesome fix. Aftermarket crap strikes again! When I saw the added LED on the dash blinking I was thinking 'aftermarket alarm" as the cause. The new truck looks great. Could you do a walk around video of the new setup?
Ye I missed that blinking light in the moment. I'll do a walk around once I finish setting it up. Thanks for watching!
X2 on the flashing light on dash. But hey you fixed it.
Let's see that truck!!!
Freaking awesome save when you caught that switch 👏
I'm not gonna lie it felt pretty good😅
Interesting wiring diagram. Seems like the switch connections are redundant. I'm guessing the switch was set up so the power to the load side of the relay was connected first/disconnected last leaving the relay to switch the heavy current. But the switch was still there as a backup/safety.
Another great video my friend!! Your channel is growing fast!!! Your helping educate alot of people,including myself!! Take care my friend!!
Thanks Jeff, I appreciate you watching!
I had a similar year camry or maybe corolla that had a bad starter, but only when it was hot. It would crank fine cold, but when the engine was hot, it wouldnt crank. Had signal and power but the starter wouldnt turn when hot. That was fun to troubleshoot.
Intermittents are the worse!
Another great video 👍 👍
how did you get so good at diag? just constant practice i assume? great video as always
I have same conditions on Camry I just bought…and realized the same little dash light exists near column smh going to have fun with this
Hope you get it figured out!
Great job buddy
Thanks 👍
Excellent video Brother
Thanks!
Good video I learned from you
The LED lights at the bottom of your Uactivate indicate which pin of the control side of the relay is power. In your case the red LED light indicated that pin 86 was the power side. If the LED light was green, it means that pin 85 is the power side. If there is no LED lit up, it means that the circuit is open or the relay control driver is not activated.
Thanks for the info!
@@advancedleveldiagnosticsYou are welcome.
I got a camry v6 no dashlights. No power going into one of the rows of the fusebox under the steering.
New Subscribed. great video
Thank you!
Well that was a fun day huh!
💯
Good job subbed!
Thanks!
So what’s the advantage of using the bulb vs an incandescent test light?
You could have a bad connection that's just good enough to light a test light, but not enough to run a starter. The bulbs are just bigger test lights.
Awesome
Where can i find the fuel pump relay?
It is called the C/Opn relay. Unfortunately it's in the integration relay and it's soldered to the board, so it's not serviceable.
Where is everyone getting these banana Jack's? Lol im jealous. Do you like them better vs the clamps and o..e. style fittings
Are you referring to the piercing probes?
@@advancedleveldiagnostics no sir, the adapters you have on your test drive, light bulb leads, dvom test leads where they are stackable. Like scope leads. Where did you get them, and do you perfect them over the clamp style clip your test light came with and like them for all other testing. Thanks!!
@@WeakPiggy The adapters on my scope leads came like that; they are pico. I modified the leads on my test light with that fitting. I got it from Amazon amzn.to/48AzYKQ
I like them better than the clip as they are much more versatile and I can put what ever attachment I want on it.
@@advancedleveldiagnostics thank you!!
Remember me and this comment when you get SD/ETCG/SMA levels 🎉
🤣
The light on the bottom of the ase u-activate tool is for the coil on the relay. When that light is on that means there is current running through where the coil should be. The fact that the light is on when on when not trying to start the vehicle indicates something front with the control side of the relay.
How come sometimes it's red and sometimes green?
One is for power side switched clip the other is ground side switched. Remember they are LEDs you have to have two diodes to cover both possible flows of current. It was hard to tell on the video but it looked like the leg was on constantly then when you tried to start it the Led would brighten. Very weird.
@@crasher88 That is true; I also thought I felt the relay click when I put it in. It must have been back feeding through the aftermarket remote start.
I like the u activate but it’s like a rubics cube for the brain with the lights. I still don’t get it all . Like who’s on first who’s on second. what’s color means what? Instructions suck
💯 Agree! Every time I use it I try figuring it out again until I give up😂
Don't you just love aftermarket crap complicating diagnosis.
And look at the that he wasted trying to do things quickly.... If you would have just took that under panel down to begin with he would have found the the solution much quicker
way to go to fast for me i had to hit rewind 3 times lol✌
,u