As usual, another excellent video. I’ve watched some of the series 6-8 times especially when I’m moving on a stage. So this week I’ve laid 2 double slips and a single slip with Tortoise motors for the station throat. This is the first track, first soldering, etc, etc. Your help has been invaluable. I just thought you should know your hard work, and clear explanations are being put into practice and are much appreciated.
Hi Charlie, hope you are well, great professional YT clip as always and demonstrated beautifully raising all the issues you may come across with such a track setup etc... always a great pleasure to watch and educating those whose may lack confidence in attempting such modelling work. Thumbs up to that! 👍
Thanks Charlie. My layout is still fairly new, but coming along nicely. I'm currently adding some detailing and updating an old Lima Class 33. Have a watch if you fancy! th-cam.com/video/8A5RUS8ZYXY/w-d-xo.html
¡Hola Charlie! Why didn’t I watch this video earlier in my layout assembly? Learnt today: You can insert a piece of track and slide steel fishplates over the join. I know, it’s something everyone should know - hand up, I didn’t. Great video and, yes, extremely helpful. Off to order some Copydex......Gary
Excellent how to Charlie, I've no diamond crossings myself and no thoughts of having one, as I have enough trouble with points as it is. thanks for sharing.........John.
Here in the states we have something called a "stay alive" that goes in the loco and it keeps the engine powered for 5 to 8 seconds. this lets me use the real cheep turnouts with plastic frogs without the engine stopping or my having to worry about powering the frogs. I love this system...
I've had a look at your videos and you are getting the hang of it. I see that your intro is 16 seconds long. People soon get board of intros so keep it short, mine is just 6 seconds. Try to plan what you want to talk about and keep the camera/phone very steady when panning around the layout. Rest assured that as your quality improves your subscribers will follow. Regards Charlie
Good to have u back Charlie! Hope ur holiday was good n u enjoyed it whilst we ur adoring public have been sitting here on our hands bored waiting for ur next video to appear! 😆 Great detail to ur video as per usual mate n l really like that crossover idea as it adds just that little bit more interest to the layout. All the best. John
Hi John, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Yes I did have a great break in the sunshine. Still, back to the track laying. Good luck with your layout. Regards Charlie
Excellent video, always enjoy watching your presentations! This have given me some ideas on trackage in a couple of areas I have planned for my layout. Thank you so much for sharing with everyone. D. Muse
Was working on my track today and found myself trying to slide a fish plate (rail joiner here in the US) onto a short piece of track like you were doing at the 2740 time line. i kept squeezing the joiner to much and it would bind. I then went to using a small screw driver (flat blade) and pushing the joiner one way or the other and I found that this was faster and (I feel) better...
Hi Charlie Great instructional video again ,my gran swore by Copydex so i have my order in on Ebay and will be using it from now on ,look forward to your next video ,take care.
Enjoyable and informative video, I am planning to use 4 turnouts and a small crossing to make a double scissors crossover and it will be OO finescale. I think the electrical side might be interesting :-) I also think I may have to modify the crossing to keep my track centres at 52mm.
btw “Copydex” is the similar compound as a product called “Maskol” - an ammonia/fishy smelling liquid glue used to mask areas of modelling paintwork, usually applied in minute form with a cocktail stick. Just a tip, if you’ve already got a bottle of Copydex it can be used for masking paintwork detailing - it must be removed though after a couple of hours.
i love your videos. Here I solder like you do and can not understand why there are so many people that think they have to remove several ties (sleepers) so that they won't melt. I have never had a tie melt. I guess that they are using an iron that is just to hot.
maybe the problem people are having with the cross over is only one track feeder attached to it. very smart using the track setter to keep the tracks perfectly straight. really does look nice
I just noticed in your video that you had four on one side of the crossing . My thought. Was you only used isolated joiners on the crossing between the tracks . And not the straight through track.
Hi, the 6ft Gauge and the Tracksetta gauges are both made by Peco and should be available from any Model shop. Failing that, do try Hattons. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie Ouch, hope your noggin is okay. Being one of those people who had issues with the insulfrog crossing I found this an interesting video. Ive now changed both mine to code 75. I got to the point I was pulling my hair out due to locos stalling for a fraction of a second or worse case shorting out (this tends to be my Hornby models ie class 31 or 50 and lima stock with chunky metal wheels) the smaller locos were an issue, 08, 03 and 07. It also convinced me I needed stay alives, however Im not so sure now as so far the 07 on test hasnt had any issues on the code 75 crossing. When I find the 08 I will be giving it a thorough testing too. I havent tried glue yet but it seems to have advantages over pins, if a little slower due to the waiting time, Im going to try it out on my next board. Look forward to your nect videos. Regards Paul
As always great tips. It might be a daft request but I have a lot of trouble getting track joiners to fit. Do you have tips to preparing them. Hope the head heals soon. Steve
Q: Are those #6 or #8 points, and what angles are associated with the various point #'s? (Sixty years ago, I worked on a Union Pacific engineering (read survey) party, and, believe me, staking mainline double crossovers was the bane of our existence. Unfortunately I have lost my track tables which also had all the spiral information.)
Why don't you use hornby track instead of peco track? And can you run multiple power inputs in a trackline e.g. a one in the beginning and one in the end
At about 1:30 you mention that you want the two points to fire at the same time. Is this a trick at the Tortoise level, or something controlled by your digitrax? I’ve got 3 such pairs so would appreciate knowing how that’s done.
Hi Brian, switching two points together is common on many layouts. With Digitrax you simply wire the two pairs of wires into the point controller. If you are using a stud and probe arrangement then I think that you need to construct a diode arrangement. What system are you using? Regards Charlie
Chadwick Model Railway I’ve not got power yet, just droppers ready. I’m hoping to invest in a bunch of Digitrax stuff next month. If the control is there, that’s fine. I thought I might be missing a Tortoise trick. Thanks again. Brian
Yes with Digitrax, you just wire both motors into the same terminal. You might have to switch the cables around to make sure that they both operate in the right direction.
@@ChadwickModelRailway many thanks for replying. I will certainly buy that kit. Also the bus bar connecting blocks from amazon you mentioned in a previous video are going to be brilliant. I've finished laying the baseboard and have made a lift up section. I'm going to paint the board and then lay the track joining droppers to bus wire. It's all exciting stuff. You have many great ideas and tips. I'm glad I found your site. Keep up the good work
Wow! Love the use of the tracksetta. Does it work with EZ Track or Atlas? I’ll need to look for something like that over here across the pond in the USA. Really like the methodology. Thank you for sharing!
Hi John, I believe that Tracksetta are made by Peco. Also, Peco track is HO scale so I’m sure with a little more investigation you might be pleased with a positive answer. Regards Charlie
I do have a question about the rail code you're using (code 100) you said in a prior video that this was much better for exhibition networks, considering those need moving every week end and code 100 is more sturdy. considering you're now doing a fixed network, that won't move for a while, you couldn't you have done it all in code 75 ?
A friend of mine told me about the way he cut the hole for the switch machine. He (and now I) uses a tool that will cut a slot through the board. I cut out the entire space under the switch sleeper and this does not show at all. This give me a slot that never will let the wire up through the switch hit on anything. You can look directly down through the switch and never see the slot. I like it better that the 1/2 inch hole they would like you to cut.
Another wonderful video, thank you! I'm slowly getting the board ready for my own small layout in the garage. I'm looking at starting with an end-to-end terminus station with a sort of fast line potential should I expand around the corner past the door (which will be a tricky one) and create a loop in the future. Any recommendations on good terminus layouts? I'd like a goods point as well as a twin platform. Thanks again.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video Edward. Small end-to-end layouts aren’t really my area of expertise but it’s at model railway shows is where I get much of my inspiration. Regards Charlie
Epic video, i need to learn all this point wiring before i make a start on my layout. so block detection is all about isolating each track from one another? where do the wires go to the main bus or?
Hi, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. With block detection and computer control, each block has its own separate power feed from an electronic controller. In the case of Digitrax, its a BDL168. Please search TH-cam for this item and hopefully you will get a better understanding. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Hi charlie Thanks for the reply. Icould see 6 insulated rail joiners on the insufrog crossing. Was wondering if there should have been 4 from point to point crossing or do all tracks need irj. Thanks Andy
Not quite Andy.Sidings numbers 1 to6 will go further into board five before I install the insulated fish plate, I will explain it when I do it. Regards Charlie
Another great video, Charlie! I had a similar situation, could go from the near track to the far track forward, but had to back through the turnouts to go the other way. No room for another pair of turnouts, so I had to install a railroads nightmare: a double crossover. Think of two parallel tracks with an x between them. 4 Atlas #6 (medium) turnouts and a 19 degree crossing make a double crossover with a 3 inch center-to-center track spacing. My track has 2 inch spacing. I had to do some creative "surgery" to the turnouts and crossing to get the correct spacing. Does it work? I put 35 cars behind my 4-8-8-4 Union Pacific Big Boy steam locomotive and pulled the cars at speed step 10 (of 28) through the crossing 3 times with no derailments, then BACKED the train through the crossing at speed step 5 3 times with no derailments. I'd call it a success. With track-work, you simply do what you have to do! Keep 'em rolling!
Hi Flyboy, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Regarding your double crossover, I too fancy constructing one. I have some used points but have yet to plan the layout on the other baseboards. Is yours DCC layout as its wiring could be a challenge. Regards Charlie
Hi, Charlie! Yes, my layout is DCC. I have the turnout frogs powered by Caboose Hobbies manual ground throws with contacts for the frog. (I just need to remember to throw both turnouts for the selected route.) Other than that, I just wired both rails of the turnout together to provide good, reliable electrical contact and not rely on the point rails for contact. The frog of the crossing is not powered. I attached feeders to the rails of the turnouts in the standard manner. Here's a link (hopefully) to my layout page at Model Railroad Forums dot com. www.modelrailroadforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/the-union-pacific-soggy-bottoms-division-ho-scale.26206/page-6 Posts 106 and 107 show the crossover. These are Atlas products, and all frogs are insulated. I really don't know how you'd wire up Peco Electrofrog products. If I can be of any help, just ask!
Sorry for the delay getting back to you, Charlie. I don't know why the link won't work, it does for me. I sent you the link via email through your photography site. Hope that's OK.
I was just wondering something. I notice that (on your side of the pond) you have double ended engines. I understand that this was because of the lack of space for turn tables. My question is how do you know where the actual front of the engine is for forward and backward operation?
Great question. They are known as either No 1 or No 2 end. The end with the roof fans is No 1 but it really only matters when computer control is involved.
Since both points will be switched at the same time, why not do it with only one tortoise? You can use the gadget Tortoise has available or get really devious and do it with two pieces of piano wire.
That’s a very good point but with the point motors being about 14 inches apart, I’m unsure that this type of linkage exists. Good luck with your layout. Regards Charlie
Hello Charlie, the Tortoise linkage would handle that easily, my points are 22 inches apart and I use the Tortoise remote setup. It is slightly cheaper than using two Tortoises and it's also a useful option when you have restricted access under the layout. More challenging is making a linkage using piano wire, mount the Tortoise horizontally and attach the piano wire linkage direct to the screw on the Tortoise. I've used this setup when I didn't have a Tortoise remote and there were wooden braces under the layout, that was a single point setup but I'm sure it could be used with a two point setup.
Thanks for the update. I’ll try and find a Tortoise dealer here in the UK and check out their full range of accessories. Do you have a website of a dealer? Regards Charlie
Great video again Charlie. Loads of good tips there! Glad I'm done on track laying. Copydex is a god send for virtually instant bond and noise reduction. I'm half thinking is it good to use for glueing down ballast! Wonder if it works as well if diluted down the same way as pva! That will be a near future test.
@@ChadwickModelRailway would be intersting to see if anyone has done it with success. Ive glued my track (wood glue and copydex) and the sound is greater through the baseboard on these sections than the pinned areas. Would be good to see if copydex soaked ballast keeps the sound level the same as it is now without the ballast.
@@ChadwickModelRailway yep - with no ballast down at the moment the sound difference is highly noticable. If copydex works as a glue for sticking ballast down and the sound thats transfered through the baseboard remains near on the same before ballast then thats a win in my eyes. I'm a little while off from ballasting at the moment but very tempted to test a small area.
Why not using a double switch cross over (I don't know if that's the right word), so that the train from chadwick can not only con into plattform 1, but also in 2?
There is a point back up the line which allows access the platform 2. I think that you mean installing a double slip. However, in real terms, if a point should fail you could have a “head on” with a train on the down line. I hope that make sense. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, another really interesting video. I am slowly making my way through them all on a massive learning curve. As new to this wonderful world of Model railways I was wondering what sound chip was in your class 37 you demo ? I am about to order a 37 and have two options (legomanbiffo and Olivias). Thanks (Graham Saunders)
Hi JC, just to confuse you, the answer is both. I normally use streamline spacing, opened out on the bends to allow Mk 3 coaches to pass each other. However, on the four tracks through the station, I’ve used set-track distances to separate the centre tracks. This is to allow a support column for a footbridge . I hope that makes sense. Regards Charlie
Chadwick Model Railway thanks that’s interesting! I must admit it’s set track spacing for me because of passing long carriages - interestingly it doesn’t help when you’re installing long crossings and streamline points hahahah
Hi Nigel, I’m betting that you’ve cross- wired the frogs, assuming that you’re using electrofrogs. The wire from the frog goes on the opposite point motor. I hope that makes sense.
Hi charlie is it possible to repair a double slip, as one of mine is faulty i thin k the spring is broke at one end is it possible replace the spring and can i get one from Peco ? regards .good video charlie.
Sadly Tony, I’ve never tried. However, because I use tortoise point motors, I always remove the springs! I’m pretty sure that Peco do sell springs separately. Regards Charlie
Another excellent and helpful video, thanks Charlie! May I make one suggestion? The volume on your voice is quite quiet and I have to turn the speakers up a fair bit, could your dialogue be mixed a little louder? Otherwise great stuff and well thought through.
Hi Corwin, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Many thanks for the feedback on the volume. I’ll check it out and compare it to the previous videos. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie! Been watching through the videos from your change from Chadwick TMD to Chadwick Railway. Has been very interesting! I noticed on a few videos you modify the points by cutting the link and then soldering the sections together... You aren't the only person who has done a video doing the same thing... Kinda makes you wonder why Peco don't supply the points as standard in the configuration you have made... Might be worth contacting them and suggesting it?! - Richard
Its giving me a headache, I cant figure out where the buggers go on the diamonds what a pain, think ill go for those infra red types, so i need 4 sets of signals? grrrrrr
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As usual, another excellent video. I’ve watched some of the series 6-8 times especially when I’m moving on a stage. So this week I’ve laid 2 double slips and a single slip with Tortoise motors for the station throat. This is the first track, first soldering, etc, etc. Your help has been invaluable. I just thought you should know your hard work, and clear explanations are being put into practice and are much appreciated.
Hi Brian, it’s comments such as yours that make the effort worthwhile.
Good luck with your layout.
Regards Charlie
Very impressed with the way your installed the diamond crossing................great video. Cheers Greg
Hi Greg, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
A masterclass in tracklaying, Charlie! Yes, it’s frustrating at times and some foreword planning is required. Super job. Cheers, Bob
Planning is everything. But lets not be too scared to change our minds. Good luck with your layout.
Great explanatory video Charlie. Thanks.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it John.
Hi Charlie, hope you are well, great professional YT clip as always and demonstrated beautifully raising all the issues you may come across with such a track setup etc... always a great pleasure to watch and educating those whose may lack confidence in attempting such modelling work. Thumbs up to that! 👍
Hi Jamie, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. I do enjoy track laying as it comes together. Good luck with your layout. Regards Charlie
Thanks, Charlie. Well done and helpful.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Dean.
Hi Charlie, excellent video, must get to grips with my layout after watching this.
If I can motivate you into re-starting your layout then I’m winning. Regards Charlie
Yet another informative video thanks Charlie 👍
Hi Alex, I’m pleased that you found it useful.
Thank you for yet another excellent & informative video.
Hi David, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it again David.
Great video Charlie! I've been looking forward to your next update! You making wiring seem to make a lot more sense than most people!!
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Good luck with your project. Regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie. My layout is still fairly new, but coming along nicely. I'm currently adding some detailing and updating an old Lima Class 33. Have a watch if you fancy! th-cam.com/video/8A5RUS8ZYXY/w-d-xo.html
¡Hola Charlie! Why didn’t I watch this video earlier in my layout assembly? Learnt today: You can insert a piece of track and slide steel fishplates over the join. I know, it’s something everyone should know - hand up, I didn’t. Great video and, yes, extremely helpful. Off to order some Copydex......Gary
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Gary.
Not keen on diamond crossings but great instructional video . Thanks for sharing. Cheers Matt
Hi Matt, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Good luck with your layout. Regards Charlie
Another fun and exciting video. Thanks
Hi Jim, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
Excellent how to Charlie, I've no diamond crossings myself and no thoughts of having one, as I have enough trouble with points as it is. thanks for sharing.........John.
Hi John, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Are you going to Warley this year?
I'd love to but I doubt I'll make it...........John.
Here in the states we have something called a "stay alive" that goes in the loco and it keeps the engine powered for 5 to 8 seconds. this lets me use the real cheep turnouts with plastic frogs without the engine stopping or my having to worry about powering the frogs. I love this system...
We have Stay Alive’s here in the UK too, sadly a little more scarce than in the US. So useful in short wheelbase locos.
Top five and one worth everyone's time!!
You’re too kind. I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Regards Charlie
Chadwick Model Railway hey Charlie not trying to "self promote" but could you check out my videos and give me some tips?
I've had a look at your videos and you are getting the hang of it. I see that your intro is 16 seconds long. People soon get board of intros so keep it short, mine is just 6 seconds. Try to plan what you want to talk about and keep the camera/phone very steady when panning around the layout. Rest assured that as your quality improves your subscribers will follow. Regards Charlie
Chadwick Model Railway thanks for the advice over the weekend I'll create a new intro and rest the camera/phone on something more often
Good to have u back Charlie! Hope ur holiday was good n u enjoyed it whilst we ur adoring public have been sitting here on our hands bored waiting for ur next video to appear! 😆 Great detail to ur video as per usual mate n l really like that crossover idea as it adds just that little bit more interest to the layout. All the best. John
Hi John, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Yes I did have a great break in the sunshine. Still, back to the track laying. Good luck with your layout. Regards Charlie
I do enjoy your videos a lot. Thank you
I’m so pleased that you enjoy them.
Good luck with your layout. Regards Charlie
Absolutely brilliant video, very informative.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
Always good to watch your videos. Looks like the track work is coming along well. A lot to look forward to in future videos as well.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Hopefully exciting times to come. Regards Charlie
Excellent video, always enjoy watching your presentations! This have given me some ideas on trackage in a couple of areas I have planned for my layout. Thank you so much for sharing with everyone.
D. Muse
Hi David, I’m so pleased that you found it useful. Regards Charlie
Was working on my track today and found myself trying to slide a fish plate (rail joiner here in the US) onto a short piece of track like you were doing at the 2740 time line. i kept squeezing the joiner to much and it would bind. I then went to using a small screw driver (flat blade) and pushing the joiner one way or the other and I found that this was faster and (I feel) better...
A great solution David.
As always another great How-To video. -Jack
Hi Jack, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
10 out of 10, Charlie, great video.
All ways trying to help Nigel. Good luck with your layout.
Hi Charlie Great instructional video again ,my gran swore by Copydex so i have my order in on Ebay and will be using it from now on ,look forward to your next video ,take care.
Hi John, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
Enjoyable and informative video, I am planning to use 4 turnouts and a small crossing to make a double scissors crossover and it will be OO finescale. I think the electrical side might be interesting :-) I also think I may have to modify the crossing to keep my track centres at 52mm.
I’ve looked at doing the same. You do have to cut down your points. Good luck with your layout. Regards Charlie
Great tutorial Charlie! Cheers, Dan
Glad you enjoyed it Dan.
Hi Charlie very interesting video thanks for posting. Dave
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Dave.
Another good one. Thanks.
Thanks Alan.
btw “Copydex” is the similar compound as a product called “Maskol” - an ammonia/fishy smelling liquid glue used to mask areas of modelling paintwork, usually applied in minute form with a cocktail stick. Just a tip, if you’ve already got a bottle of Copydex it can be used for masking paintwork detailing - it must be removed though after a couple of hours.
That’s Bobby, that’s a good tip. Regards Charlie
Very good video Sir!! Hello from Winnipeg , Canada.
Hi Dwayne, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
i love your videos. Here I solder like you do and can not understand why there are so many people that think they have to remove several ties (sleepers) so that they won't melt. I have never had a tie melt. I guess that they are using an iron that is just to hot.
We sing from the same song sheet David.
maybe the problem people are having with the cross over is only one track feeder attached to it. very smart using the track setter to keep the tracks perfectly straight. really does look nice
Hi Sparky,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Regards Charlie
In places you have large gaps in the sleepers; do you put extra sleepers in OR do you just ballast the gap?
Hi Mark, I always insert sleepers into the gaps before I ballast. Regards Charlie
David. The problem comes with hornby locos some short out because wheels profile to thick
Hi David, I used Bachman’s 37, a Hejan Bubble Car and a Hornby 08. No problems encountered by I will try my Hornby Class 50. Regards Charlie
Chadwick Model Railway I solved the problem by using clear nail vanish .I always look forward to your shows, David
Wow, what a great tip. Thanks for sharing David. Was that just on diamond crossings or have you needed it on points too?
Chadwick Model Railway I have only had the problem with the diamond crossing ,with hornby class 31 and class 56 . David
I just noticed in your video that you had four on one side of the crossing . My thought. Was you only used isolated joiners on the crossing between the tracks . And not the straight through track.
Hi Andy, I’ve used for insulated rail joiners because of block detection. Have a great Christmas, regards Charlie
Could you provide a link or website for the pico 6 foot track guide and the track setter? Thanks! Excellent video. Thanks for sharing
Hi, the 6ft Gauge and the Tracksetta gauges are both made by Peco and should be available from any Model shop. Failing that, do try Hattons.
Regards Charlie
Thanks for the info.
Hi Charlie
Ouch, hope your noggin is okay.
Being one of those people who had issues with the insulfrog crossing I found this an interesting video. Ive now changed both mine to code 75. I got to the point I was pulling my hair out due to locos stalling for a fraction of a second or worse case shorting out (this tends to be my Hornby models ie class 31 or 50 and lima stock with chunky metal wheels) the smaller locos were an issue, 08, 03 and 07. It also convinced me I needed stay alives, however Im not so sure now as so far the 07 on test hasnt had any issues on the code 75 crossing. When I find the 08 I will be giving it a thorough testing too.
I havent tried glue yet but it seems to have advantages over pins, if a little slower due to the waiting time, Im going to try it out on my next board.
Look forward to your nect videos.
Regards Paul
Hi Paul, thanks for your interesting update. Reading through these comments, one chap used clear nail varnish to stop the shorts.
Regards Charlie
As always great tips. It might be a daft request but I have a lot of trouble getting track joiners to fit. Do you have tips to preparing them. Hope the head heals soon. Steve
It’s just a case of filing off the burs from the cut rails and being careful. There is no easy answer I’m afraid.
Q: Are those #6 or #8 points, and what angles are associated with the various point #'s? (Sixty years ago, I worked on a Union Pacific engineering (read survey) party, and, believe me, staking mainline double crossovers was the bane of our existence. Unfortunately I have lost my track tables which also had all the spiral information.)
Sorry Jack, Peco, do not list the points by #. They are either short, medium or long. Regards, Charlie
Why don't you use hornby track instead of peco track?
And can you run multiple power inputs in a trackline e.g. a one in the beginning and one in the end
Hi Ryan,
I believe that Peco track is better quality and it’s not made in China.
Yes with DCC multiple power feeds are recommended.
At about 1:30 you mention that you want the two points to fire at the same time. Is this a trick at the Tortoise level, or something controlled by your digitrax? I’ve got 3 such pairs so would appreciate knowing how that’s done.
Hi Brian, switching two points together is common on many layouts. With Digitrax you simply wire the two pairs of wires into the point controller. If you are using a stud and probe arrangement then I think that you need to construct a diode arrangement. What system are you using? Regards Charlie
Chadwick Model Railway I’ve not got power yet, just droppers ready. I’m hoping to invest in a bunch of Digitrax stuff next month. If the control is there, that’s fine. I thought I might be missing a Tortoise trick. Thanks again. Brian
Yes with Digitrax, you just wire both motors into the same terminal. You might have to switch the cables around to make sure that they both operate in the right direction.
HI was wondering if you would show hot to use electrofrog points but just with dc only.thx mark
I will do a point video in the future.
Hi. What size heat shrink tubing would I use for 1.6 and 3.2 wire? Many thanks
Here's a link to the kit that I use Les.
amzn.to/31CPA3a
Regards Chatrlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway many thanks for replying. I will certainly buy that kit. Also the bus bar connecting blocks from amazon you mentioned in a previous video are going to be brilliant. I've finished laying the baseboard and have made a lift up section. I'm going to paint the board and then lay the track joining droppers to bus wire. It's all exciting stuff. You have many great ideas and tips. I'm glad I found your site. Keep up the good work
Wow! Love the use of the tracksetta. Does it work with EZ Track or Atlas? I’ll need to look for something like that over here across the pond in the USA. Really like the methodology. Thank you for sharing!
Hi John, I believe that Tracksetta are made by Peco. Also, Peco track is HO scale so I’m sure with a little more investigation you might be pleased with a positive answer. Regards Charlie
Chadwick Model Railway thanks Charlie!
I do have a question about the rail code you're using (code 100)
you said in a prior video that this was much better for exhibition networks, considering those need moving every week end and code 100 is more sturdy.
considering you're now doing a fixed network, that won't move for a while, you couldn't you have done it all in code 75 ?
Yes, but now 75 Bullhead is even better AJ.
A friend of mine told me about the way he cut the hole for the switch machine. He (and now I) uses a tool that will cut a slot through the board. I cut out the entire space under the switch sleeper and this does not show at all. This give me a slot that never will let the wire up through the switch hit on anything. You can look directly down through the switch and never see the slot. I like it better that the 1/2 inch hole they would like you to cut.
I’ll certainly have a look at this technique David.
Very therapuetic watch. No crazy muzak 👍
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
Another wonderful video, thank you! I'm slowly getting the board ready for my own small layout in the garage. I'm looking at starting with an end-to-end terminus station with a sort of fast line potential should I expand around the corner past the door (which will be a tricky one) and create a loop in the future. Any recommendations on good terminus layouts? I'd like a goods point as well as a twin platform. Thanks again.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video Edward. Small end-to-end layouts aren’t really my area of expertise but it’s at model railway shows is where I get much of my inspiration. Regards Charlie
Epic video, i need to learn all this point wiring before i make a start on my layout. so block detection is all about isolating each track from one another? where do the wires go to the main bus or?
Hi, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. With block detection and computer control, each block has its own separate power feed from an electronic controller. In the case of Digitrax, its a BDL168. Please search TH-cam for this item and hopefully you will get a better understanding.
Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Great, can the bachmann dynamis ultima do something like this? as i think thats the controller im going to go for
I very much doubt it. Any automation will probably be based on time.
@@ChadwickModelRailway ahh blimey, oh well not to worry thanks.
Hi
Did you use 6 irj in total for the crossing? I'm sure i saw 4 on one side and 2 more on the other end.
Thanks
Andy
Thanks
Andy
Sorry Andy, what's a 6 ijr?
@@ChadwickModelRailway
Hi charlie Thanks for the reply. Icould see 6 insulated rail joiners on the insufrog crossing. Was wondering if there should have been 4 from point to point crossing or do all tracks need irj.
Thanks
Andy
Wear a helmet next time :-) Thanks again Charlie for this video!!! Cheers Onno.
I'm now using a floppy hat but I'm too embarrassed to show you!
Hi, do you glue your cork down with copydex too? Also, do you use pva for the ballast or something else? Thankyou
Yes I use a latex type glue but watch the next video!
Hi.charlie merry Christmas Do you put insulated rail joiners on all tracks 8 in total.
Thanks
Andy
Not quite Andy.Sidings numbers 1 to6 will go further into board five before I install the insulated fish plate, I will explain it when I do it. Regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie have a great Christmas
Another great video, Charlie! I had a similar situation, could go from the near track to the far track forward, but had to back through the turnouts to go the other way. No room for another pair of turnouts, so I had to install a railroads nightmare: a double crossover. Think of two parallel tracks with an x between them. 4 Atlas #6 (medium) turnouts and a 19 degree crossing make a double crossover with a 3 inch center-to-center track spacing. My track has 2 inch spacing. I had to do some creative "surgery" to the turnouts and crossing to get the correct spacing. Does it work? I put 35 cars behind my 4-8-8-4 Union Pacific Big Boy steam locomotive and pulled the cars at speed step 10 (of 28) through the crossing 3 times with no derailments, then BACKED the train through the crossing at speed step 5 3 times with no derailments. I'd call it a success. With track-work, you simply do what you have to do!
Keep 'em rolling!
Hi Flyboy, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Regarding your double crossover, I too fancy constructing one. I have some used points but have yet to plan the layout on the other baseboards. Is yours DCC layout as its wiring could be a challenge.
Regards Charlie
Hi, Charlie! Yes, my layout is DCC. I have the turnout frogs powered by Caboose Hobbies manual ground throws with contacts for the frog. (I just need to remember to throw both turnouts for the selected route.) Other than that, I just wired both rails of the turnout together to provide good, reliable electrical contact and not rely on the point rails for contact. The frog of the crossing is not powered. I attached feeders to the rails of the turnouts in the standard manner. Here's a link (hopefully) to my layout page at Model Railroad Forums dot com. www.modelrailroadforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/the-union-pacific-soggy-bottoms-division-ho-scale.26206/page-6 Posts 106 and 107 show the crossover. These are Atlas products, and all frogs are insulated. I really don't know how you'd wire up Peco Electrofrog products. If I can be of any help, just ask!
Sorry Flyboy but the link doesn’t work.
Sorry for the delay getting back to you, Charlie. I don't know why the link won't work, it does for me. I sent you the link via email through your photography site. Hope that's OK.
Thanks Flyboy I now have your link. That crossing is a great construction. I'm sure that I will have a go soon. Regards charlie
I was just wondering something. I notice that (on your side of the pond) you have double ended engines. I understand that this was because of the lack of space for turn tables. My question is how do you know where the actual front of the engine is for forward and backward operation?
Great question.
They are known as either No 1 or No 2 end. The end with the roof fans is No 1 but it really only matters when computer control is involved.
Since both points will be switched at the same time, why not do it with only one tortoise? You can use the gadget Tortoise has available or get really devious and do it with two pieces of piano wire.
That’s a very good point but with the point motors being about 14 inches apart, I’m unsure that this type of linkage exists. Good luck with your layout. Regards Charlie
Hello Charlie, the Tortoise linkage would handle that easily, my points are 22 inches apart and I use the Tortoise remote setup. It is slightly cheaper than using two Tortoises and it's also a useful option when you have restricted access under the layout.
More challenging is making a linkage using piano wire, mount the Tortoise horizontally and attach the piano wire linkage direct to the screw on the Tortoise. I've used this setup when I didn't have a Tortoise remote and there were wooden braces under the layout, that was a single point setup but I'm sure it could be used with a two point setup.
Thanks for the update. I’ll try and find a Tortoise dealer here in the UK and check out their full range of accessories. Do you have a website of a dealer? Regards Charlie
I've made most of my purchases through Ebay.
Great video again Charlie. Loads of good tips there! Glad I'm done on track laying. Copydex is a god send for virtually instant bond and noise reduction. I'm half thinking is it good to use for glueing down ballast! Wonder if it works as well if diluted down the same way as pva! That will be a near future test.
I’m sure that I have heard of someone using Copydex to ballast. I’ll ask in a future video. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway I'm almost sure I read of this in a Railway Modeller back in the 90s.
@@ChadwickModelRailway would be intersting to see if anyone has done it with success. Ive glued my track (wood glue and copydex) and the sound is greater through the baseboard on these sections than the pinned areas. Would be good to see if copydex soaked ballast keeps the sound level the same as it is now without the ballast.
Wow, that does surprise me. Just to clarify, you’re saying that pinned track produces less noise than track glued with Copydex?
@@ChadwickModelRailway yep - with no ballast down at the moment the sound difference is highly noticable. If copydex works as a glue for sticking ballast down and the sound thats transfered through the baseboard remains near on the same before ballast then thats a win in my eyes.
I'm a little while off from ballasting at the moment but very tempted to test a small area.
Why not using a double switch cross over (I don't know if that's the right word), so that the train from chadwick can not only con into plattform 1, but also in 2?
There is a point back up the line which allows access the platform 2. I think that you mean installing a double slip. However, in real terms, if a point should fail you could have a “head on” with a train on the down line. I hope that make sense. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, another really interesting video. I am slowly making my way through them all on a massive learning curve. As new to this wonderful world of Model railways I was wondering what sound chip was in your class 37 you demo ? I am about to order a 37 and have two options (legomanbiffo and Olivias). Thanks (Graham Saunders)
Hi Graham, mine has a Legomanbiffo sound file.
Thank You Charlie, I appreciate the quick reply, keep the videos coming I am learning so much. Cheers
Hi there are you using streamline or set track spacing between rails? - excellent videos! Cheers JC
Hi JC, just to confuse you, the answer is both. I normally use streamline spacing, opened out on the bends to allow Mk 3 coaches to pass each other. However, on the four tracks through the station, I’ve used set-track distances to separate the centre tracks. This is to allow a support column for a footbridge . I hope that makes sense.
Regards Charlie
Chadwick Model Railway thanks that’s interesting! I must admit it’s set track spacing for me because of passing long carriages - interestingly it doesn’t help when you’re installing long crossings and streamline points hahahah
I am having trouble on how to wire up double/single slip crossing, need help-Please
Nigel Woodgate
Hi Nigel, I’m betting that you’ve cross- wired the frogs, assuming that you’re using electrofrogs. The wire from the frog goes on the opposite point motor.
I hope that makes sense.
Hi charlie is it possible to repair a double slip, as one of mine is faulty i thin k the spring is broke at one end is it possible replace the spring and can i get one from Peco ? regards .good video charlie.
Sadly Tony, I’ve never tried. However, because I use tortoise point motors, I always remove the springs! I’m pretty sure that Peco do sell springs separately. Regards Charlie
Another excellent and helpful video, thanks Charlie! May I make one suggestion? The volume on your voice is quite quiet and I have to turn the speakers up a fair bit, could your dialogue be mixed a little louder? Otherwise great stuff and well thought through.
Hi Corwin, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Many thanks for the feedback on the volume. I’ll check it out and compare it to the previous videos. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie! Been watching through the videos from your change from Chadwick TMD to Chadwick Railway. Has been very interesting! I noticed on a few videos you modify the points by cutting the link and then soldering the sections together... You aren't the only person who has done a video doing the same thing... Kinda makes you wonder why Peco don't supply the points as standard in the configuration you have made... Might be worth contacting them and suggesting it?! - Richard
I agree Richard and Peco understand the situation.
The modification is actually detailed in the instruction leaflet..
Do diamond crossings need signals? if so where the heck do you fit them lol
Yes, you always need signals.
Too dam complicated this model railway hobby.
Its giving me a headache, I cant figure out where the buggers go on the diamonds what a pain, think ill go for those infra red types, so i need 4 sets of signals? grrrrrr
Just looked up what you meant by Stay Alive. Why don't the trains come with a stay alive already fitted?
I’m sure that they will eventually but for now, there is only a limited market which would make them too expensive.
Why not pin the track ???
Because the larger pins look dreadful and pins also help to transmit the rumbling sound into the base boards.
would cork bed also reduce rumble into base boards?
As usual another fine video on how to lay track but please next time you are under your base board mind your head or wear a hard hat
I do wear a floppy fishing hat now Paul.
Camera click in intro is _still_ so loud, it killed several fish in a nearby river ;)
Stay away from the river!
Okay, I’ll turn it down still further.
Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway It caused everyone in the street to start singing Duran Duran's "Girls On Film".
hellocharlie, what happened to your forehead? were you under the layout when your wife called you?Ihope you recoverd rapidly.
best regards...
Not this time, Pierre, it was in the garden! Regards, Charlie