Point Motors, which to choose at Chadwick Model Railway | 21.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 มี.ค. 2018
- Which Point Motor should you buy at Chadwick Model railway
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Stumbled upon your channel just the other week. Your advice and recommendations on various topics are dead-on. Your video instruction will save me a loads of time comparison shopping not to mentions money down the drain on substandard products. Very much appreciate your time and energy to share.
Hi John, I’m so pleased that you have found the videos useful.
Thanks for this. Hurtling towards the fitting of points on my first layout and learned a lot here. Cheers.
Thanks Darren, I’m so pleased that you found it useful.
As someone just starting in the hobby I found this both fascinating and informative. I look forward to seeing how they are fitted :). Ian
Hi Ian, I fit them in Friday’s video. Thanks for watching . Regards Charlie
Thanks for sharing all the excellent video's, these are very clear and really helpful.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed them Rene.
Always a pleasure watching your professional and informative videos.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Charlie, you certainly make your topics easy to understand and always weigh up the various options without being biased, thanks. Apart from having a digital version, the other advantage the cobalt has over the tortoise is there is no soldering required for connections. Cobalt now make a surface mount, the cobalt SS, which is dearer still but it is so small and almost silent when installed properly. I am gradually replacing my noisy old peco solenoids with cobalts ( when funds are available). Like all things peco, all a bit dated and no real sense of keeping up with changing times!
Hi Nick, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video.
I’m pleased that you agree that slow action is the way to go.
Good luck with your layout.
Regards Charlie
Excellent presentation with lots of good info!! Thanks buddy.
Thanks Eddie, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Another great TH-cam clip, professional from start to finish, I would be interested in watching your next TH-cam clip, on how to install the Tortoise Motors to a Accessary Controller like a Lenz LS150 / LS100 or equivalent. Great to watch! Nothing is rushed and your presentation and explanations are great, well thought out. Looking forward to your next TH-cam Clip!
Hi Jamie, I’m pretty sure that that is my next instalment. Regards Charlie
Very informative video to watch , my layout is L shaped and from my chair I can reach most points . The others have surface mounted motors which operate off a CDU for quick action .
Thanks for sharing .......Peter
Hi Peter, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Regards Charlie
In my earlier days of N Gauge modelling, I always used standard peco motors underneath the points. My wiring could have been neater but it worked, and I guess that's what I was happy about. They're not particularly realistic, and super loud when they operate (especially if you don't use a CDU as they buzz) but its old tech and works well . . . I'll probably stick with them when I get round to my next project as I managed to salvage them from my previous projects :P
Hi, thanks for your comment. Using DCC sound fitted locos, I found the sound of solenoids took away the realism that I was trying to achieve.
But hey, we all enjoy this pastime and that’s what really matters. Regards Charlie
Hello Charlie, I love your open and honest opinion on the aspects of the different points available. Far too often people will have it in mind to use a product and boast its good points only. I was in the same dilemma as you choosing what sort of points to use and it basically was between Tortoise and DCC Cobalt motors. I did go for Cobalt in the end and it was the choice between the in-built dcc chip and the quieter operation. With all the noise from locos etc the noise did not seem to be much of a problem. Thank you for 'Pointing' out (no pun intended) an honest opinion. Regards, Geoff.
Hi Geoff, many thanks for your kind words. I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. I’ll let you know how I get on. Regards Charlie
Good video Charlie, very good descriptions of point motors, particularly useful for newcomers to the hobby.
Michael
Hi Michael, hopefully it will be of use to newcomers and those thinking of a change. Regards Charlie
Hi There. I've only recently subscribed to your channel and I find it very interesting. Thanks. In your latest video on point motors you missed out another method of operating points electrically. This is using Servos. They can be operated by both DC and DCC. Although you need to attach them to a driver board which also helps in setting up the throw of the point. The main advantage is the cost. A servo only cost a couple of quid each, and the driver boards are about £20-£30 and generally can handle 4-6 servos per board. Another advantage is the size of them. I've used them for a few years now and had no issues using them. Anyway I look forwards to seeing your layout progress. All Best Dave
Hi Dave, yes I did avoid mentioning survos but I know so little I didn’t want to show any opinion. Thanks for watching. Regards Charlie
Thank you for producing a good comparison of the two types. I would however like to say something in support of the solenoid motors - the 'clunk' is a useful audio confirmation that the point has actually (probably) been thrown. I prefer to use the probe and stud method for activating the motors... I don't think that I could if I used slow-acting point motors, I would have to buy switches which are one more thing that could go wrong!
I’m glad that you enjoyed it and your comments are well founded. Regards Charlie
Ooooh Charlie! This video is right up my street! Plans, plans and plans are afoot for a new layout. I have a few Seep, Peco, Fleishmann (yes, Fleishmann - an old type but with integral frog switching and accessory for signals), H&M, and a couple of ...........whose name escapes me, Brian James, I think, which are a solenoid type with a cranked arm for remote positioning and actuation by wire. (Would’ve been good for your difficult point.) I also invested a small amount in the ones sold by “Conrad Electronics” sold under the “Rapid Online” banner as they have amalgamated I’ve looked at Cobalt & Tortoise and yes, cost is huge compared to others but your view was balanced by the quote regarding a sound Loco. I have all the stock I need now with one or two possible additions, but they are indulgent “wants” not “needs”! Point motors are in the “needs” arena, although not wholly necessary, but a nice thing to have. I like to play signal man so the DCC operation of everything isn’t on my list of priorities. I shall steadily persevere through the thought process before committing to one kind or other. The preparation can be attended to by drilling a 9mm hole under the point tiebar which I will embark on. Thanks for your thoughts on the subject. Very useful. ThNk you for sharing. Best wishes, Bob
Hi Bob. I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. The tortoise installation is probably next. Regards Charlie
My great grandpa wired his layout with solenoid points so ive got a soft spot for the click. He was an electrical engineer and he had it setup so youd press the button closest to where you wanted to go and it sets all the switches automatically. I was too young to really appreciate it.
But now of course, we kneel at their expertise.
Thanks for that Charlie. I have contemplated using slow action but they are quite expensive. I heard the Cobalts were noisy but they now do a foam plate to deaden the noise. I looked for used Tortoise but they are like hens teeth !
I bought mine from Digitrains, which they had in stock. You just have to buy and hope. Some prefer Cobalts, some Tortoise. I doubt that there is much difference. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, thanks for getting back as for pin dropping out, try soldering it wouldn’t take thought this would been good ideas too. Well just had to used a mirror and steady hand to replace it. Not good idea for points over tunnels ? You think. Thanks for your help Roy
Hi Roy,
I was thinking that you could solder the pin in place prior to initial installation.
Thus, stopping the pin from working loose over time
Another great video Charlie, very useful for someone thinking about powering their points.
I've got gaugemaster seep and Peco solenoid motors in my fiddle yard (working off accessory decoders so no CDU) and Cobalt ip digitals in the scenic section. So far my Cobalts are great, easy to fit and quiet, sometimes I have to check they've thrown just to make sure I'm not driving two locos into each other... some are certainly noiser than other but its not bad and when I'm running sound I find it helps, if that makes sense.
My seeps work fine as have my Peco solenoids, with the exception of one which had a microswitch disintegrate.
I'll be interested to see how you get on with the Tortoise motors.
Cheers Paul
Hi Paul, I’m glad that you enjoyed it. I have wondered from ages which side of the slow action fence to jump. I’ll let you know how the landing goes. Regards Charlie
Chadwick TMD
Both cobalt and tortoise seem to have got their act together now so hopefully you won't have any issues.
Cheers
Very interesting as usual. I found myself warming to the idea of manual points ...
I’m so pleased that you found it useful Ian.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Somewhat taken aback by the costs ....
Hope you'll have fun installing them.
Thanks Gabor.
The Cobalt analogue motors are £150 for 12 from Coastal DCC.
The Cobalt has built in connections that don't require soldering or an additional plug.
There is also a built in switch that reverses the throw of the motor without the need to swap over wiring. It also has 3 built in switches for frogs signals or LEDs on the mimic board etc
When you take the cost of a Peco solenoid, the mounting plate and the switch assembly, they work out nearly as expensive as the Cobalt.
Some good points Neil for those who are undecided or wish to upgrade.
A sound investment, Look forward to the fitting.
I’m glad that you enjoyed it. Fitting them should be next. Regards Charlie
Fun fact. I havnt brought a point motor in about 5 to 6 years. I take them off old layouts and use them again. I love them i really do. So easy, cheap, and they just work. Good old Peco PL 10 and PL 10E
Now there’s a positive recommendation.
Hi Charlie, I have just picked myself up off the floor after hearing the price of those Tortoise motors. I knew that they were expensive but 200 quid! That was a surprise.
I started out using Seep and Peco but now I have settled on cheap model aircraft servos. They don't have the clunk of Seep and cost less than Tortoise but still give quiet slow operation. Thay can be a challenge to mount and need something to drive them but I have been using Merg kits for those items. The price is comperable with Seep/Peco.
I have allways baulked at the price of Tortoise/Cobalt (as I do at the price of a sound fitted loco) but I am now very happy with servos for point operation (and doing my own sound installations with TTS decoders). It is good to have the choices. ...................John
Hi John, yes it can be an expensive hobby! Still, it stops our kids wasting it!
Try the Arduino with servo route. about £1.20 per point.
Servo Route! not heard of that. I intend to use Merg Megapoints kits which are probably a little more expensive. I wiil have a look at Servo Route. ..............John
Hi, another excellent video, you are excellent at doing these videos, I tend to talk rubbish. I would be very interested in seeing how you fit the Tortoise point motors and hear your opinion of them…Simon
Hi Simon, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
Thanks charlie I'm at this point right now (no pun intended) and this is very useful information.
I'm so pleased that you have found it useful mate.
Very interesting Charlie - good comparisons throughout I thought. I still have some of the large H&M solenoids which go with a wallop, which I rather like. Shame H&M went bust.
Thanks John, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
Hi again Charlie, I will have another go soldering tonight this time use the flux this time, let you know how it goes later on, this is pin on point. Roy
Have you viewed my video
“soldering with 60/40”
Regards Charlie
Interesting and well presented. The one thing that was not mentioned was servo motors. They are considerably cheaper than Tortoise motors and solenoid motors. They are almost silent in action and can be programmed to move at a scale like speed. The SG 90 size are very small, weighing at 9 grams. The average price from Servo shop or Hobby King is about £3 each, or was! The SG90 was originally designed for small electric radio controlled model aircraft, hence size and weight.
Thanks for the info Chris. This is clearly an area that I need to study and improve my craft. Regards, Charlie
I have used the peco points in the past with very few issues but as on my new layout I will be able to access all the points easily I will save myself the effort of fitting them.
I would drill the holes anyway just in case you have a change of heart. Regards Charlie
That might be a tad tricky with the ikea tables I am using but no chance of changing my mind, I only end up forgetting which way the road is set and having to check in which case I might as well do it by hand lol
I am in the process of planning the side board of my layout which will have points on it and some of them will be unreachable and am currently looking into getting point motors. Your video on point motors is very useful. Although I am not quite there yet but I know that I will need to get some point motors. I am going to be using electrofrog points throughout but just wondering how to work out what will work for me and what will not work and more straightforward as my motor skills are not good when it comes to soldering. I have heard quite a few mixed things about certain point motors at a recent railway exhibition I went to. I am steering clear of Hornby solenoid point motors as they didn't work properly when I tried them out despite doing what you said in the video. At the exhibition I went to I was recommended the tortoise slow action point motors or MTB MP1 slow action point motors which apparently are club standard (but are quite tricky to get hold of). I got advised against cobalt slow action point motors as apparently the levers have a tendency to freeze after a while. In terms of solenoid point motors I got recommended the seep point motors. How do I go about it as I have also been told that with point motors it's dependent on what will work for me and not as a few guys said to is that what works for them may not work for me so I am a bit worried about how to go about that. The layout is already planned out. I just don't want to waste money on something that will not work. Also would it help if I email my plans?
The MTB type in Motors are available from James at DCC train automation. However, I would tend to go for the tortoise slow action point Motors because their reliability cannot be matched. Regards, Charlie
Nice video. I choose Cobalt digital as they have dcc in them already as you mentioned. It makes setup simpler and less wiring plus you save an accesory decoder which you have to have for each 4 motors. Again lots of wires and also more expensive? On other comparisons of the Tortiios and Cobalt people seem to find the Cobalt to be the most quiet of the two? From seeing both in action in the same video I think they sound more or less the same. I have previously tried servoes, but the setup is very complex when using electrofrog.
I agree that these slow action machines have clear advantages over both servos and solenoids. Regarding sound, today there’s not much in. Colbalts certainly were noisier.
this was very useful. thank you. Shame they are not that price anymore from what i have seen.....!
Yes, sadly things have moved on, but in the wrong direction. Regards Charlie
Excellent as ever. Have you any view on servo based systems such as Peco Smart Switch (exANE) or MegaPoints servo system, which can operate points or semaphore signals (inc slow action)? The stall motor types don't really seem to suit semaphore signals as travel limits have to be set mechanically rather than logically.
Sorry OF but my knowledge is quite shallow on those.
Doink vs Whirr - great description.
I couldn’t come up with a better description!
I found out that Tortoise motors sit on a constant stall until changing direction. Tillig (German) motors include sliding limit switches which stop the motor current until changing direction. As a control engineer that's what I prefer. I like the Tortoise specification but think that not drawing current when quiescent is a good idea. I’ll let you know what I found when I have installed the damn things. Cheers, Charlie
I just thought of the clunking sound of a real set of points changing. It's quite a noise. Not sure if anyone on here has that sound available, but the 'donk' to me sounds better. Lovely explanatory video.
Thanks Harrison, but I’m a whirring kind of guy! Regards Charlie.
The thing is, I kind of like the snap of a solenoid point motor because it lets you know that it's actually done something... slow motion points are cool and all until you get one that doesn't throw and you have two $400 models smash and another
Please don’t scare me with that scenario but a good point nevertheless.
Hi Charlie. New to the hobby been watching your great videos. I inherited a layout that hasn't been run in a number of years. Watching all your videos. I have loads of point motors in various states of operation. Some of the under board ones fire one way but not the other. Some are temperamental and work some time but not others. Maybe they need that power booster? The above ground motors will push the point but not pull it back. Any tips?
The dodgy ones I’d replace with SEEPs.
They are more reliable than Peco. You now to sort out whether your points are insulfrog or electrofrog.
Good point about point motors. In the Rc aircraft model world I spend £25-£30 for servos....most of my models need 6 !
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it C100.
A verry good explaning of pointmotors. HC Treintje Belgium Herman.
Thanks HC, you’re too kind.
Another method favoured by some is the use of servos. Yes the additional components required to drive them add to the cost, but servos are a cheaper alternative to solenoids, and most definitely Tortoise and Colbalt. Solenoids as Charlie correctly states do make an annoying thump, they can, too, over time break the points they operate, also with solenoids, if left with the power on they become miniature electric heaters (burny, burny time, not good). Every prospective railway modeller must make an informed choice, balanced by potential financial constraints, space limitations etc.
We both sing from the same song sheet on this one mate, regards Charlie
Nice overview if a bit too constrained to just the acoustics and UK based most popular approach. As a general discussion it’s missing a bit. I’d classify point motors into 3 groups; but one could argue 1,2a,2b. 1) solenoid driven 2a) dc motor based 2b) servo based. Beyond the acoustics and price there is the aesthetic on the way the turnout rails move and the way one can configure them how far to move and at which speed to switch between positions. The solenoid approach also, depending on the rail system one is using can allow for cutting the turnout without having to actually change the turnout position at all. A full treatise is point motors should touch those topics a bit but I understand that for 95% or more if UK modelers buying gear from local shops the content you covered is sufficient.
Some fair points Minok.
Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, the seep point motor have trouble with pin dropping out after a time for use. The tortoise ok but not for another level ie station above tunnel, any clue as for keeping pin n
Hi Roy, I’ve never had this problem but could the pin be soldered in?
Tortoise also does one with builtin decoder, affectionately known as SMAIL
I’ll check them out mate.
The doink, Doink, Doink is actually here in the signal box !!
You do surprise me Robert.
Great video Charlie. I presume that you will ultimately control these motors via DCC and your TrainController software in due course?
Very true it’s TC for the operation. I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
Chadwick TMD Im keenly following your new build as I am pondering whether to go down the computer control route too.
I'm in the planning stages for an HO-gauge 10' x 6' layout and was considering using Tortoises but now I'm not sure if they'll be fast enough to change the turnout in time before the train reaches it. I suppose that's another advantage to the solenoid machines.
Mine take around 1 second to switch.
You could always slow down your trains. 😜
There's a good idea! I'll go with the Tortoises then. Thanks for your reply and I enjoy your videos very much - keep making them! I love your attention to detail and clear explanations.
I use Peco PL11 surface mounted point motors in my opinion the best thing since sliced bread! easy to fit and wire and can be easily disguised by weathering and ballast, i also have some PL10 under baseboard type which are a pain to change if anything goes wrong. For me the PL 11 wins all the time and lets face it in the real world point motors were all surface fitted not underneath!
Hi, a fair point if you use insulfrog points. Regards Charlie
I use both types Charlie, but found that electrofrog are best for dead end sidings and terminal stations etc , my layout is dc only
Photographically speaking, you were bold with the black shirt on white background, but it looks great!
Do/did you use a light meter when you’re recording video?
No Andrew, I don’t use a light meter but my light levels are pretty stable. Regards, Charlie
Hi Charlie, a quick question if I may. I've reached the point (no pun intended) where I want to add point motors (12 of 'em - eventually) and I have two controllers that I was going to sell to help finance the cost (Guagemaster Combi and Hornby Select). But it occurs to me I may need one or other of these to power the points. Am I right? Should I keep one? I'm using an NCB Power Cab. My set-up is DCC. Many thanks. Steve.
You might have the wrong end of the stick Steve. Most points are powered separately such as 12 V DC or 24 V AC. The switching of the points is a different matter entirely. You can use various DCC controllers to switch points with most operating systems. Has Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway I think you might be right, Charlie. Problem is, I cant even find the stick. :-) Nevertheless I'll keep plugging away until it turns up and if I watch enough vids maybe something will click. Cheers.
Hi Charlie could you shed any light on why the point motors get hot to hot to touch they are hornby point motors I've wired them as per instruction cheers Phil
Hi Phil, they must be wired incorrectly. They should only receive a short pulse of power to throw the solenoid.
If yours are getting hot then power must be on all the time. They will burn out in time. Perhaps it’s your type of switch.
Charlie
Can you please help me???
I’ve been trying to find out how to wire Tortoise motors to my LenzLS150 point controller ??
I’m sorry VP, but I know nothing of lenz equipment. What I do know is that the point motors are operated via terminals one and eight. If you apply a smoke alarm battery to wires attached those terminals you will see it run. One Direction and the other. This is what your system needs to produce. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie great presentation just got back into model railways after 30 years do you recommend the seep pm1 over the peco point motors. whats the reliability on both points?
thanks
Andy
I can’t remember the model numbers Andy, but I would always go for the SEEP rather than Peco.
Thanks Charlie
It's the pm1 which as built in frog polarity.
Cheers
Andy
Is there a way to gear a fast point motor down so there isn't that clicking? Just an idea.
Hi Angus, no there isn’t. It’s a solenoid and the principle is that it energises with a powerful thrust. Hence my move to tortoise slow action. Regards Charlie
I always have an issue with the Peco PL motors. It’s difficult to get them properly aligned on the underside of the layout, and they seem to require more power to operate. Atlas turnouts will work just fine on the accessories line of my power pack but the Peco seem to need a capacitor to give them enough oompf
Yes Q, that’s exactly right. They do need a capacitor discharge unit to work properly. Regards, Charlie.
@@ChadwickModelRailway good to have my thoughts confirmed. I’m not aware that Peco makes one but I will research what might be appropriate
Watching this a bit after it was made, but want to ask. What are your thoughts on using an above board point motor like the DCC Concepts Cobalt SS ? Have you found any that look realistic enough to mimic the "prototypical" point motors? (yes, I hate that word, but it seems to be what is used)
Hi Brendan, I must admit they are quite small but still too big unless you hide them.
One other factor is how noisy are they? I've yet to see them in action so I can't really help.
Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway I am not sure how noisy they are as I am only considering if I should get them or not at the moment, but they are based on servo motors, not solenoid, so they shouldn't clunk....
I may get one to try out. I have a few spots that I just can't get under track points in
Love your channel, recognizing change happens with time, this video is still the most informative I can find regarding selecting point switches. I would love to know the total cost of implementation with the Tortoise's, and compare that to the it's newish sister, the Smail (its DDC enabled version).
Now what has really got my attention, Walters' has a new horizontal and vertical mount switch machines (www.walthers.com/walthers-layout-control-system-horizontal-switch-machine) at a comparatively great price, what you have heard (pun intended regarding the sounds of) and about the quality these new switches.
Hi Chris, a revised point motor (switch machine) video is at the planning stage.
Sadly your link didn't work.
Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Sorry about the extra ) in the link, see. www.walthers.com/walthers-layout-control-system-horizontal-switch-machine and www.walthers.com/walthers-control-system-switch-machine . Chris
Where did you get the cable labels Charlie?
I knelt at the altar of that dreadful online auction site!
Charlie: Can the throw rod be lengthened or replaced on the Peco point motors? I need longer reach from under the table top. Thank you, Charlie
Hi Charlie, I do believe that Peco make point Motors with a normal and a long armature wire. Regards, Charlie
Thank you. The Seep motor makers had extenders available, but no longer. The Peco motors model PL10E are made with longer throw pins than their regular model. Not quite long enough, so I wondered what you knew of an available extender.
Are any motors unsuitable for DC or DCC? I’m building loft perimeter layout with 24 points. A mixture of insul and electro ones. I’m starting off DC then converting later to DCC as money and skills allow. Don’t want to scrap all the motors!
There are some DCC only points motors from DCC Concepts but everything else in normal use is either system.
Just watched the video in 2024 very good indeed, however I went to price up the silent points drivers NOW pack of 12 costs £300 is the silence version worth it ?
That’s a shocking price John.
Regards Charlie
The cost of the Tortoise is not so bad compared to the Peco (et al) and additional mounting plates and switches. Geoff W
Hi Geoff,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video.
Regards Charlie
Hello Charlie...have you looked into servos , for point motors...?
Hi Jakob,
Yes I have considered servos but because I’m trying to encourage less experienced modellers, I stick with more common solutions.
Regards Charlie
Thank You for replying Charlie...ok.
Great video Charlie. I learnt a lot from that. Genuinely much appreciated.
PS your class 47 is not 100% accurate as 1. It was available for traffic. 2. It moves. 3. The digital horn sound doesn't go "spoooooon" and 4. It kept moving. 😂😂👍🍻
You're so brutal Martin.
Did you look into Walthers motors?
Sorry Edwin but no, they’re not that common in the UK.
This is the first time I have sent the Sofia, however I seen the date of delivery, so my , 'iffy' question, was can we join you on the sofa? Patrick, Northamptonshire
Sorry Patrick, but that sofa will soon be no more. Regards Charlie
I use servos. They are cheap, $1.50 per, they are small, and controlling then via dcc is cheaper then other motor types. Really, the best of both world. Oh, they are also quieter then slow motion switch machines too.
I have also heard of folks (Sandling Junction for one) who just couldn’t get on with them. Regards Charlie.
I'm interested in purchasing seep point motors. Are they any good ?
I believe that they are certainly better than Peco.
I've had 12 Seep PM1s on my draughty/damp shed layout for more than 15 years - absolutely no problems at all. Peco PL10s and 10Es also very reliable (9 of them)
@@ChadwickModelRailway Yay ! My Seeps came in the mail all the way from England. I can't wait to test them out.
very nice layout you got there .Thumbs up for you .Hope you like mine diesel dave's
I shall certainly check it out Dave. Regards Charlie
Hi chic my father in law and my wife ha e an aversion to noizes like point motor thuds ,as a veteran of mounting them to the point its self and a good cdu like the gauge master cased poi ts control machine that are built like there dc controllers can throw 8 motors all at one time with ease and hornby at that.i thi k by screwing them to the base board acts the same as a loud speaker and like the wife shouting at me hitting in a nail saying hit f..in thing so ive got an intolerent faither in law n wife i can say my point changing is all but a small click.i cut out polystyrene boxes to case them underneath n theve yellowed a wee bit.there all getting seep motors n switches which i didnt know until your wee presentation of them excisted as im doin a new build n theyll do nicely.ive never had naggin aboot the motors yet as im in a bedroom all the way round it......lol
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video Jim. The noise drove me mad too. Good luck with your layout, regards Charlie
Couldn't you use off the shelf electronics? An Arduino is cheep as, and capacitors, diodes etc. Cost practically nothing?? Of course it requires a little bit of learning however they are simple components...adds to the fun of the hobby....and brings the cost down 😁
I couldn’t agree more regarding costs Matthew but sadly with time pressures, my priorities lie elsewhere.
very big point motors, found a smaller and cheaper :www.modellbahn-voigt.de/MTB-MP1-V2-Motorischer-Weichenantrieb, cannot compare as I use the gunshot actuators.
Very interesting Huib.
Hi Charlie, I cannot seem to find any way to message you privately on YT but I ttok your advice and did a very rudamentary walk around of my layout without doing any "Tidying up" - trains are not running on the video but I give a basic 'commentary' on how I began my ambitious undertaking! th-cam.com/video/1BIc7R_eOaA/w-d-xo.html - Also, check out the follow on video where I describe my DCC and TrainController setup - th-cam.com/video/wNAdrbEivgo/w-d-xo.html
Andy, that's great. Now I can see your extensive layout. Blimey that is some wiring puzzle. I guess that it just evolved that way over the years. I notice that you have duel screen monitors. Is that a feature of your computer or is a TC gold thing? You are clearly further down the TC Schedule road than I am. Judging from your accent are you from the Midlands or a little further north? It's interesting that you have one helix and an incline. That's something I'll have to look into. Sorry to hear that your station had it's very own blizzard but you seem to have recovered from it. My next video goes out tomorrow (Friday 1200 is my target every week) and I've started on fitting point motors! Keep in touch. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, slightly more North than that - Halifax, West Yorks. The dual monitor thing is a feature of my graphics card in the computer that has two outputs - Windows then detects this and you can have as many monitors as your card allows. As you saw in the video, I have my schedules and notifications on the second monitor. Before I started building the layout, I WAS going to have two helices (like Everard Jn's was) nut as I began laying the track it occurred to me that I could get away with a stretched out incline. My schedules on TC currently only work on the 4 loops and allow me to have two trains running on each loop (watch 'em go by!). I am still in the process of setting up shuttle schedules to do some back and forth running of small DMU's coming into and then leaving back in the same direction, hopefully while the "main line" schedules are still running. The issue I have occasionally is one that you addressed in one of your videos, in that, every now and then I have a "train wreck" - one train ploughs into the back of another! I have since ordered some 10k resistors and Electric glue to add to the rear end vehicles which will hopefully cure thhe problem - thanks!
Thats $244.00 us dollars
Yes, it’s shocking.
Regards Charlie.