Warlord Games Epic Battles Waterloo - Riflemen Painting Tutorial
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ส.ค. 2024
- Warlord Games Epic Battles Waterloo - Riflemen Painting Tutorial
#warlordgames #warlordgamesepicbattleswaterloo #epicbattleswaterlooreview #epicbattlesnapoleonic #warlordgamesepicbattlesthewaterloocampaign #epicbattleswaterloo #warlordgamesepicbattlesnapoleonics #warlordgamesepicbattles #warlordgamesblackpowder #napoleonicwargaming #15mmnapoleonics #paintingwarlord #paintingwarlordgames #Napoleonicwars #paintingtutorial
Black prime (any black primer)
Zenithal highlight with white using an airbrush (Any white)
Drybrush white (Any white)
*Alternative for non airbrush users: Prime in grey, drybrush white.
Contrast Dark Angels Green
Scale 75 Black Forrest Green
Army Painter Greenskin
Contrast Blood Angles Red
Citadel Evil Sunz Scarlet
Contrast Basilicanum Grey
Contrast Black Templar
Contrast Talassar Blue
Scalecolour Fantasy Games Arianrhod Blue SCH-29
Contrast Iyanden Yellow
Contrast Wyldwood
Contrast Gore-Grunta Fur
Contrast Gulliman Flesh
Vallejo Noctura Fairy Flesh 74.007
Scalecolour/Scale 75 Black Metal SC-63
Scalecolour/Scale 75 Elven Gold SC-74
Vallejo Game Air Silver 72.752
Vallejo Model Colour Off-White 70.820
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'... they don't pop as well as the red coated ones do..' which was entirely the point. The green jackets would be harder to see, and therefore shoot at.
Absolutely. But I was talking from a painting and colour perspective, how the finished miniatures look rather than the original purpose of the colour choice.
That is amazing. I never thought of using GW Contrast paints like this. Thanks for the video. I just bought all the Epic Waterloo boxsets and I have direction.
Thank you, yes the paints are really versatile, I’m using lots more than I ever thought I would.
Excellent. KGL Light Battalions are my favourite Napoleonic units and you certainly did them justice.
Thank you 😊
Hells Bells Stuart, you've hit a rich seam with these Epics. Well done with the subscribers, well deserved, have watched the painting tutorials countless times as I'm sure have others.
Wasn't familiar with this contrast technique and can't wait to try. Have returned to this hobby after dabbling with it in the 80s, and also getting some very average results with a squadron of Scots Greys a few years ago. Decent brushes are now top of my list, have seen the odd request for horse painting guides, I'd add Kilts to the list.
Attracted to this scale I think because the forces really do looked "Massed". Charles Grants colour plates of French columns etc have always stuck with me since childhood from his book, and hopefully I can now do them justice, not a gamer but I think they'd display so well.
I don't doubt how time consuming all this is for you on top of other eras, but please keep them coming, I'm sure plenty are thinking the same.
Kind Regards - Steve
Thank you for the very kind comment Steve 😊
I get loads of enjoyment putting together the tutorials, wish I had time to do them more often, but there will definitely be more, ones with horses coming soon, and hopefully kilts in the not too far distant future when I can get hold of some Highlanders.
I’m 100% with you on this scale, and for the same reasons, it’s all about the perception of a large massed rank of troops. This range does that so well, but with some decent detail and pretty affordable in plastic too.
Smashing job on these Stu. Really look great. 😁👍
Cheers dude 😊
Excellent stuff once again.
Thank you 😊
brilliant as usual, really looking forward to some french heavy cavalry, keep up the good work
Thank you 😊
They look awesome! I'm trying to hold fire for Peninsula but it's becomming increasingly difficuilt - looking forward to more of these tutorials
Thank you.
I’m hoping they will do something Peninsula based, but not relying on it, I’ll be playing Peninsula and 100 days with these models. If they do a British sprue with Stovepipe Shakos at a later date then it will just be a bonus.
Hi Stuart.. just a thought re painting anything high up like a lance, sword, bayonet, flagpole etc. Some paint handles have a magnetic base. If the bottom of a model base were magnetic too it would be possible to fix the model to it and paint the model upside down, so any drips would fall away from the rest of the model.
Yes that would work, and the painting handle I use has a magnet. It’s much the same as just turning the regular painting handle upside down though, the putty holds all regular sized miniatures well enough to do that, and with these epic plastics there’s no issue there.
It’s probably also worth noting that when I paint on camera I’m not in my usual painting position, in an effort to keep in shot I’m less likely to turn the handle upside down.
Oh man alive they look absolutely tremendous Stuart. I think they came out brilliant, tremendous guide and the highlights. As a whole battalion they just look tremendous. Will you be doing any Calvary next? Im so looking forward to the starter sets and the skirmisher 95th along with the Highlanders. Really enjoying your channel so much. Learned so much with contrast method as well.
Thank you 😊, I’m glad you’re enjoying the videos, and appreciate the comments. I’ve just edited a Voltigeurs tutorial, that will be out soon, but I think it’s probably time to do some cavalry next - I’ve avoided them long enough 😂
Great work as usual.
Thank you Gary
They look fantastic - have a well earned sub
Thank you 😊
Stuart, just the tutorial I needed as I’ll be using these miniatures as the 1st and 2nd Light KGL deployed at the crossroads (later the Wellington Elm) and Le Haie Sainte respectively. I plan to use the skirmish rifles announced in the Scottish Brigade box as my ‘Sharpesque’ 95th on 30 by 20mm skirmish bases.
Separately, for your cavalry tutorials you might want to compare and contrast the standard 60 by 20mm bases an Rendera’s 60 by 30mm. I’ve pulled the trigger on the 60x30s to avoid the over-hang and allow more positioning variance in a four figure light cavalry base to make them less uniform and easier to distinguish from the ranked up 5 figure heavies.
The KGL fit perfectly in both my projects, very handy 😂. I’m planning on my Skirmishing Rifles being the 95th as well, not decided on basing yet though. Currently painting Voltigeurs and they work very nicely 4 to a base.
I’ve ordered some 60x30mm, not 100% decided yet until I get them, but think that’s probably how I’ll go.
I wish Warlord had done an entire sprue of figures in stovepipe shako. There were more than 40 battalions in stovepipe (including all the Dutch & Hanoverian militia), compared to three of highlanders.
I’d love this too, would cover so many uses. While they originally said they had no plans to, I think if this release does well enough it’s not impossible to see it in the future, would cover so many things - the light battalions who still used it at Waterloo, the Dutch and Hanoverians as you’ve said, assuming they had Skirmishers on the sprue like the French it would cover that as well, let alone allowing those interested in Peninsular War to cover that more accurately. I’d definitely buy loads.
Would love to see a list of all of the paints you used in your comments. I'm an old school Enamel painter so don't have to hand all of the contrast paints you mentioned. Would help me ( and others) be able to paint as well as yourself. Thanks
Hi Carl, thank you for suggesting it, I’ve done it for some videos but not all - added now (I think I’ve included them all).
@@MiniatureRealms Thank you. Have a Brigade of French Infantry & British Infantry Primed & under coated with white ready for colours to be applied. Will be coping your examples.
Excellent job once more Stuart love to see your version of the Scots greys I've done mine + 2 unit/regiments of dragoons so far
Thank you Graham. I’ll definitely get around to the Scots Greys at some point, I don’t need them for my first project, but they will be so fun to paint.
Nice spod-along video...very relaxing. Great recipe and delicious results, very economic on faff, yet the result is waaaaay poppy/shiney! Is it just me but is anyone else getting the little wars toy soldier shivers? [HG.Wells not Little Wars TV].
p.s. I will flip my lid if Epic does ancients and/or middle ages/renaissance! :D A little wee may fall out down one leg I'd be sooooo happy!
Thank you.
I think we will see more Epic releases for sure, and I think we might see something different away from the Black Powder game/era next time, but not sure what yet. I’d like ECW I think.
Great tutorial Stuart,I'm holding out in buying these,as if I do it'll cost a fortune and another area of this hobby I'll be going down lol
Thank you 😊
You’ve got good willpower, I’d like to say good luck in holding out, but would be great to see you crack 😂
@@MiniatureRealms lol
Look great, as usual! I definitely learned some great tips here. I’m thinking I’d give a touch highlight to the green jacket. It seems that the contrast green looks slightly glossy, but to be fair, it’s hard for me to tell.
Cheers Matt 😊
I did actually highlight the jacket, seems I mistakenly edited that bit out of the video, it’s using the same Army Painter green I used to highlight the plumes and Shako tassels etc. the final shots show it highlighted, just not the process.
Cheers Matt 😊
I did actually highlight the jacket, seems I mistakenly edited that bit out of the video, it’s using the same Army Painter green I used to highlight the plumes and Shako tassels etc. the final shots show it highlighted, just not the process.
Nice painting
Thank you
@@MiniatureRealms Hi, Your brushes look of good quality may I ask what brand they are? Thanks
I’m mostly used Broken Toad right now, I’ve been very happy with them.
Look great!
For La Haye Sainte 2nd KGL Lights. I'm tempted to put the "captain" model on the back rank on 3 bases. So it looks like a normal 4 base battalion.
Or is it irrelevant, and each company would have had a captain anyway?
That would be a cool think to do, go for it. In terms of how that relates to ‘realism’ I wouldn’t worry, at full strength there would be 10 companies and 10 captains, but they’d rarely be at full strength, and a company could be 30 men lead by a 2nd Lieutenant etc. Just do what looks cool.
Big warning for anyone coming to paint these. Beware your primer coat. At this scale it has to be totally perfect in all respects. I put the black primer coat on the other day and only just came to clip them off the frame for highlighting. First time I had looked at them under a magnifier to examine the coat only to find it had dried with a 3d printer effect somehow totally destroying the fine details of the figures. Now looking to buy a good paint stripper to start again. I knew this was going to be a challenge but didn't expect it was going to be the undercoat that failed first.
I’d be interested to hear if anyone is else had experienced this, hopefully you can fix yours. I’ve not had that at all, but I’ve only primed with my airbrush, I was worried about losing detail on the small miniatures. I’ve noticed that the frames appear shiny, I’m not sure if that’s just the coloured plastic or some kind of release agent. I don’t wash all plastic miniatures, but might be worth it with these.
@@MiniatureRealms I get a feeling it is a combo of two problems. The effect certainly could be release agent which would make sense considering the fine detail in the plastic may need more agent to keep the detail. The other is the rattle can plus environment. Had the can a while but is unused GW Chaos black. Sprayed outside at 14'c on a dry day. Odd thing is I also sprayed two bases I had modified for a cobblestone effect for two Vampire hunter figures. Those came out correct. The effect is not universal. Two frames of epic bases were done at the same time but some are affected with the 'wrinkle' effect and others not. I am beginning to suspect release agent. Either way it is time to get the paint stripper working. I think washing the frames is a must as I did not wash these. Also I usually use Halfords primer in grey which seems to ignore release agent better than any other primer.
Yeah it sounds like some kind of release agent then. Might catch a few people out, I don’t tend to wash plastics, I’m sure it’s the same for most people. I try and remember to mention it on my next painting tutorial.
@@MiniatureRealms Ok, update. I used a can of Citadel Chaos black. Well shaken and at room temp approx 16'c. Sprayed the models on the frame. Have now attempted to strip the paint using biostrip 20 on an offcut frame part. With the paint removed the damage is in the plastic. This is either the release agent reacting with the paint or the plastic itself reacting. I will admit I have been in this hobby 40 odd years and never seen this before. It is very much worse on the 'flat' side of the frame. My advice is before you use any rattle can on these test it on the frame first. I am now sure I am down one frame of British and one frame of French due to this.
Have you messaged Warlord? They’re customer service is amazing, I’d be surprised if they didn’t help you out. Have you tried some spraying ‘post washing’ now?
Hi Stuart, great video! You list black forest green but dont mention it in the tutorial, is this a jacket highlight. Cheers.
Hi Connor, yes that’s correct, there’s a tiny section of footage missing from the video that I didn’t notice until too late.
so much for skirmishers which is what the 95th were
The reason they gave for doing these was that much of the 95th actually fought in line at Waterloo, I would have preferred the skirmishing versions first though. They did however do them, they’re on the same sprue as the Highlanders.
Another excellent video you’ve really made these ‘pop’ and I will certainly be using the majority of the colours. What are you’re feelings for using them as militia do you think the sword bayonets will be too much? I still feel it won’t be that noticeable en masse.
Thank you Graham 😊
I think these will paint up really well as Stovepipe wearing British, Caçadorès, and probably a few more. Once on the table it really won’t matter at all, and even at a closer look I don’t think the sword bayonets will be that bad.
Thanks for these videos! Does the Epic rulebook show which uniforms and colours to use, or would you recommend another resource?
There are basic painting guides in the starter sets, but it’s a big topic. Osprey books are very good always, and there are a number of uniform guides out there. Internet image searches are useful too, but I tend to double check those, especially more contemporary artwork which is very often not accurate. I can’t link in the comments or TH-cam deletes the comment, but if you search ‘centjours monte saint Jean’ you will find a brilliant Waterloo campaign guide, all units from all sides. It’s in french, but you can use Google translate.
@@MiniatureRealms Amazing, thanks so much. I love the period of history, but getting the units painted 'right' is a bit intimidating!
I know how you feel, but don’t let it overly concern you. You will always get the odd button counter on Facebook groups who will love to tell you what you’ve done wrong, but these are just big boys toys after all. For British the uniforms are mostly the same, it’s ‘facings’ (collars and cuffs), plumes and the lacing that change colour per regiment, and there are loads of references online for that.
French have a slightly different set of parameters, but again a few hours of reading and you will get the hang of it, loads reference material.
Sometimes flank companies (guard and light) have different colour plumes etc. but in this scale that’s only a few models in each battalion.
That French site has that all anyway, once you’ve found a particular regiment, there are tabs for the ‘light troops’ etc, and you can see if anything is different.
I have a question on uniforms. I have saw that you have painted one of the chest band in white in all of your men. Looking on centjours site those with the white bands are only those of the flanking companies, central companies have both bands in black. I am missing something?
It’s the strap from their bread bag, I picked it out as it adds a brighter colour on the smaller miniatures.
The sculpt/miniature is of the 95th, even though I’m using the ones in the video as KGL light. On the Centjours website the 95th colour plate shows the white strap of the bread bag and no second black cross strap. The KGL colour plate is very similar, but there’s a black strap over the bread bag strap (you can just see the white underneath), but the miniature is 95th so doesn’t have it I don’t think. I’ll probably use them to represent both units at different times, once I have more painted I might be tempted to add the second black strap seen on the KGL to make them stand out from the rifles, but it’s such a subtle difference it doesn’t make a big difference, and I thought following the scheme for the 95th would be more popular than the KGL light.
Rather than priming black and doing a zenithal highlight of white, could a similar effect be achieved by spraying white and painting the whole model with Apothecary White contrast paint?
Sadly that would have enough of a shading effect, the Apothecary White is quite subtle.
You could spray the model with grey and drybrush white. Alternatively you can use black and build up a zenithal with white drybrushed as well, though you need to build this up slowly.
I'm only a few months into this hobby soni still have a lot to learn but I thought they would be skirmishing like the voltigeurs. Can someone enlighten me as to what the difference is because I also thought I did see these guys in skirmish formation in one of the starter boxes
They have skirmishing versions on the way, they will be in the upcoming Highlander set. The reason Warlord have given for these is mostly based on it being a ‘Waterloo focused’ release, there were three battalions at Waterloo I think, and a couple of them spent most of the day in line formation with the rest of the army.
@@MiniatureRealms Thank you, that clears things up a lot. I'm really enjoying your painting tutorials while I wait for my first boxes to arrive
Thank you for watching, glad you’re enjoying them. 😊
Please do a French line
Absolutely, will be a couple of weeks, but it’s in the plan 🙂
for 95th rifles shouldn't we cut off the bayonets? I am going to cut mine off. Watch Sharpes series they NEVER have a bayonet on their rifles.
It’s not a bad shout, very unlikely to have them on if firing.
Are these 3d print are they from the box set I’m struggling to paint mine there to small
These are the plastic Warlord Games ones from the set.