I knew you'd get this after your last successful manifold bolt extraction on that Chevy pickup. You're getting better at welding. Soon you'll be getting it done in fewer and fewer tries.
Good job Ray! I would elect putting a longer stud in that hole and using lock tite. That way the next water pump isn't an issue and that stud would never have to come out of those threads again, and it gives you the extra length
Off topic but the dashboard origin was very interesting. Have one to offer. With foot on the brake or hands on the steering wheel plus many other applications, what do you make of the word Haptic in your profession?
Endeavor to persevere, Ray’s new motto. Who would have thought watching someone trying to extract a bolt would have me sitting on the edge of my seat at 4:30 in the morning. 😮😮
It's the most authentic show on TH-cam...and I feel every pain, every setback like it's my own because I have been there, done that, and suffered.. but hardly ever with the patients of Ray.
One thing I've learned from watching Ray for around two years is that my subjective distrust of bolt extractors is rational. I was trying to extricate a bolt from an excavator and went through seven bolt extractors before I gave up and played the game of gradually increasing drill bit sizes. Sure, I dinged the threads a little, but not enough to have to recoil the hole.
Bloody good job there, mate. You've done yourself proud. Perseverance is *definitely* the name of the game in these situations. Well done Ray - it's stuff like this that keeps us all coming back for more. No question that there's a whole chunk of the internet cheering and barracking for you and raising a glass to your success. Keep it up Ray, you're a true inspiration.
Hey Ray I'm a retired Robotics Engineer and Machinist. I always removed broken bolt's and stud's from equipment using the same procedure but after I welded the bead on the bolt I would chill it down and flood with penetrating oil. And tap with a small hammer to unlock the threads. Then weld the nut on and attempt extraction. Love watching the videos. Brings back a lot of knuckle busting memories.
I suspect the slow cooling is what did the trick. The heat from the welding expanded the bolt which would wedge it in, and dousing the nut with penetrating oil doesn't really cool down the bolt enough for it to contract again. Cooling it down and then hitting it with some freeze spray might have made it even easier since the bolt would chill down and contract.
I saw a video with a steel bolt in an aluminum block. They used a car battery after adding a bead to the bolt to heat up (red) the bolt. This caused expansion and contraction. One tip is not to quickly cool the welded area. This may cause the weld to crack. I like the tapping the bead with a hammer trick after cooling down. Patience and perseverance will always win.
You are more mentally tough than anyone I have ever met! Spending hours and hours on a seemingly hopeless extraction and coming out on top is amazing! Glad the other engine was not necessary.
Install a m6 x 1mm stud to full depth of your threads, and use stud retainer locking compound. Then secure the pump with an m6 x 1mm nut. The stud with locking compound will allow more clamping force than trying to use a bolt.
Now that’s a good idea. Why didn’t I think of that? It’ll still have different thermal movement characteristics, but it’s far less likely to pull out the remaining threads. That’s much better than my suggestion. Good one!
Another good save. Suggestion. Use the old waterpump as a guide, drill out that knackered thread and put an insert in place. Again, use the pump as a guide for the insert tap. It's a scrap pump anyway, so drilling out that one fixing hole to the correct size for each stage in that process is a zero-cost. I'd also suggest now might be a good time to go for gas shielding rather than that nasty gasless stuff.
@RainmanRaysRepairs wanted to thank you. Our 04 f150 driver window fell down. Was able to pull the door card and get the window up temporarily. Couldn't have done it without your videos
Ray is consistently the calmest, most professional technician that I have ever seen. Many ratchet clickers and wrench turners should watch this and take notes. *breaks bolt off in block* “well that’s not what I wanted.”
Nothing in the least sketchy to see here! 😂😂 Well done for having such patience, persistence and fortitude. I’m so pleased it’s working out for you. You deserve it. And thanks for giving me a few laughs at your expense!
Agreed. Also you are in a great location to install the threaded insert. Depending on how close you are to the water jacket, I'd put some JBWeld on the outside of the threaded insert to ensure the nutsert to block threads don't leak. I don't think the bolt itself will leak around the threads or it would have leaked from the factory. A very light amout of sealant on the bold threads can be added later if the bolt does seep under preassure.
@@ron1584 The reason I meantioned it was because he will need to drill out the hole to the size recommended by the nutsert and then tap it. I raised the point for others that might be dealing with a different engine and use the same extraction method that results in damaged threads.
The bolt is stuck because of aluminum oxide from the steel and aluminum galvanic corrosion. Sulfuric and nitric acids can dissolve aluminum oxide, as can alkalis such as lye or caustic potash. Mixed with water, the alkali makes a caustic solution that dissolves the aluminum oxide.. that’s how it’s done..
You worked your magic on that job, Ray. It took some 'stick-to-it-iveness' and time but you did it. Saved the customer the cost of a new engine. You are gold.
Rainman, a thread chaser would apply here because they are less aggressive and can restore threads to the bottom. You can borrow them at parts stores. Loctite once made a product to restore threads with an epoxy compound to 80% of torque with all the threads stripped. Just sharing from experience.
Sometimes you just need to improvise to get the job done. Well done Ray. So glad you saved that engine . You could have the hole aluminium welded and re-drill and thread. but a longer bolt to pick up the bottom threads is a good option. Awesome video. Kept be thoroughly engaged hoping for success. Ray is having himself a great day.
I knew you could do it. As many times as you heated it and let it cool from welding, the easy-out was probably soft enough to drill by the time it finally came out. Now you need to glue that piece to a small nice of Mahogany, add an engraved brass plate giving the dates, and seal the whole thing with some extra clear table-top epoxy like they make the hatch cover tables out of. If your boy follows you in the biz, one day when he is facing the same thing, he can look over and see that Dad never gave up. Also, I know you know, but be sure to not use that welder much until you get the covers back on. That fan normally draws the cool air through the housing, and over the transformer and diodes. Without the cover on, the fan does nothing except circulate air around its self, and you can burn up a diode quick with a long weld.
You should have a collection of the broken/welded bolts to show the accomplishments you've done. And the equipment you've saved. Don't care about anybody else I like your terminology 😊
Do they have EDM in your area ? At work ( aircraft engines ) they would remove steel bolts from aluminum cases/ light weight metal cases when they break in the holes. It would leave the threads undamage in the holes. Not sure how the processes works but it works well.
Congratulations in finally beating the nemesis of all! usual rule of thumb if there is the left-over thread amount is as the bolt diameter that should be enough to hold otherwise changing that bolt to a stud which has been ground down to taper end to accommodate the no threads at base of hole will guaranty full grip!
Tool makers use bottoming taps after standard taps. The bottoming taps cut all the threads to the same depth. Then the stud adhered in the block as others in the comments suggested.
You never gave up on it and that is what counts. Although to some people removing an engine just to extract 1 broken bolt may seem a tad bit extreme,...... but you had to do whatever it took to get the job done. CONGRATS!!
The cheering that I did as I leapt right out of my seat when that came out. I didn’t know how invested I was in this Rubisu engine. Well in Ray. Respect. Patience and perseverance.
Good job skippy, just so you know a stripped out 6x1.00 hole is the perfect size for a 1/4 x 28 standard thread in case you already have the pump on and the bolt strips out you don't have to remove it, no drilling no heli coils just run the tap in and put the standard bolt in, we keep those bolts in stock at my shop, in different lengths, just for that.
Congrats on getting that blasted bolt out Ray. All the trouble that bolt gave you I would hang it on the wall as a sign of victory lol. Again congrats on winning the battle.
Yikes be careful I believe the welder has some large capacitors, discharge them always prior to Messing with it! And congrats on the bolt you stepped right in sit😂
Quenching the weld will make it more brittle than allowing it too cool naturally. I'd also try and chemically clean the inside of the nut before attempting to weld it, helping get a better join between the nut and built up weld.
Now this is why you hire a skilled mechanic who also knows his way around a workshop and knows how to do metalworking. You're an absolute craftsman, Ray.
Before you try and mount a water pump, take a straight edge and verify absolutely that the block is not warped or uneven after all that localized heat application. Resurface that area if necessary. Perhaps an extra-thick gasket could compensate for any unevenness.
That much welding and not a budge I would have after all that welding time and effort just drilled it out stepping up drill bit sizes trying to nick the threads on the broken bolt till it comes out to save the block threads and if the block threads get messed up re tap them and if that don't work Heli Coil it 22:22 @Rainman Ray's Repairs
I was holding my breath so much I nearly passed out. Well done you for your perseverance. It's only insanity , as in doing the same thing over and over expecting a different result, if it never works, but it did work. So that's all right then.
You know you’ve got a good channel going when you’ve 38k views & 7k likes & counting as people get invested in watching you weld, weld, reweld, & weld again all hoping that you can work it out of there. Speaks to your originality, humor, & authenticity. Good show ol man.
God works in mysterious ways Ray. Engine lost in shipping, that gave you the fortitude to repair the one on the bench. You are blessed and we love you and your wonderful family.
Thats what I was thinking. Is there a valid reason why some people dont even consider it until a last resort? Drilling and tapping a helicoil looks so much easier than this and itll introduce fresh threads. Any thoughts?
Pulling the engine was the right move, straight from the get-go. Tiny extractors usually break off in my experience, so I almost never try to use them. But now you've got a half-damaged hole where you could do one more step and be back to having one as strong as it was before the bolt broke. Use the waterpump as a jig to counterbore the old threads out and shoot a Helicoil or Timesert in there.
The Subaru episodes had me on the edge of my seat more than any other of your videos. I didn't want to believe that one bolt could ruin the whole engine, so I was deeply satisfied when you got it👍
Whoop whoop! Edge of my seat throughout that and I forced myself not to look at the comments, so no spoilers either. I genuinely didn’t think that was going to work, knowing there were broken extractors stuck in there, after the last one. Also with the alloy having a lower melting point than the steel bolt, I expected more of it to have blown away, by the time you got enough penetration on the remains of the bolt. As I mentioned in the first one, you can use the old water pump as a drill guide, to centre your drill hole, but you couldn’t do that this time because, by the time I said it, you already had hardened steel broken off in it and you’d never get that out with a drill. This is amazing to see, so once again I’ve learned something. I hope never to have to do that, but having seen it, I’ll at least give it a go, if I ever need to. It’s a hard call to make, whether to use a longer bolt or a thread insert. The insert won’t take the same torque as an original thread, but the longer bolt will have different expansion characteristics. On balance, I’d probably go with the bolt, as it’s the least invasive. If the gasket leaks, or the threads pull out, you still have the thread insert as an option.
The results indicate your skill level. A few thoughts: plain unplated nuts just a bit better. Lightly tapping on the end of the assembly with a small hammer while turning back a forth seems to help. Final tapping with a bottoming tap, finally using a red lock tight stud in place of a bolt. Great videos feels like we're in the shop .
It's so awesome to hear the excitement in Ray's voice when he accomplishes something that he has lost hope in. I was so sure that last try had broken also, I almost fist pumped and shouted when I saw the bolt was out.
I have read a lot of the comments and a lot of people were slamming your welding or your technique. That is all immaterial, the main thing is that bolt is out. To clean up threads to bottom is use a bottom tap or just grind your tap flat, you should get a couple more threads. I really enjoy your videos
Ray, I know you were successful this time but maybe a few tips for the next time. When using the brush to “clean” the weld area, you were actually introducing contaminates to the weld area and that is one of the reasons it kept breaking. Yes a tig welder works a lot better but a lot of guys do not have a tig welder. Ones you had the nut welded on and cooled a little, use the small propane torch to heat up the aluminum around the bolt! This process has worked very well for me in the past. I now have a tig welder and will use that on my next broken bolt!
You have renewed my faith in you after the replacement engine was lost. I can see this working with a bolt 1/4 inch longer. It has to be exactly the right length. Not short two threads and not bottoming before tight. I can see Ray drilling the hole two threads deeper but no more than that.
When i regularly take the most rotted out bolts you can imagine from marine service motors I have 3 tricks for you: 1. If possible drill the center of the bolt out since this allows it to shrink more than 5x as much as a solid. 2. Use that box end or breaker with a snug fit and start with the wiggling you were doing every time. Corrosion breaks down inside the thread that way but piles up if you try to run it out to early. 3. Aluminum becomes plastic at about the same temperature as the redhard temp of steel. So as last resort keep the nut almost but not quite glowing and gently turn it out to re form the block threads. Keep in mind if the bolt is damage itll take the threads with it though and need a helicoil
Wow! I was sweating just watching this! I think the bolt started to unthread at the 23 minute mark. You were still expecting the weld to break, but you were actually moving it. Cliffhanger!
I had this happen on replacement of a thermostat. Bolt snaped off. Used a drill and a snap on easy out to extract it. Worked 💪 Thanks for another great video. Hello from Pa USA 🇺🇸. Heat index 106.
Thanks for saving this 1999 vehicle. I also have a 1999 vehicle and i do everything i can to keep it on the road, I don't want any of these crazy newer vehicles.
Just a tip, take a small carbide burr on a die grinder and grind the end threads out of the hole before you weld. You can also shine the end of the broken bolt up with it also. Weld a washer, then weld a nut to the washer. I've done 100's over the years and that's the way. Lol
As an Industrial MachineRepairman , whenever I encounter a stubborn bolt. Do over power it 👎. Smack it very hard on every direction, while spraying it with penetrating oil. Then use a box end wrench working it back and forth to get it to move. DON’T continue to keep wrenching on it if it’s tight. Continue to work it back and forth all the way out 👍
We always started with a left-handed drill-bit. Start with a small one, then work up to one just smaller than the tap drill size. In many cases, when you get close, the remains will unscrew themselves.
i had the same reaction as u ray, no way. that bolt seemed impossible but just gota keep at it. that attitude has saved me thousands over the years of not hiring someone else to do work when i knew if i just pushed the the crap, it would pay off in the end. way to go
I saved my 2010 Harley Block years ago. Their service tech over torqued a primary cover bolt. I used a Heli Coil kit, drilled the hole to the next size, tapped the hole, threaded the heli coil insert, which brought it back to the original size. The Service manager at the Harley shop went nuts, telling me it would never work or wouldn't last. He wanted to install a $5,000 factory rebuilt motor. 75,000 miles or so later my $10 repair was still holding tight.
Ray, if you have never tried it, try using a hollow tube, then weld inside the tube onto the broken bolt, then you can crush the upper tube or weld a nut onto the tube and try that.
Major second-hand anxiety! Had a similar battle with a water pump bolt on a Sonic 2 months ago. That was #3 for 2023 so now certain cars get a disclaimer to the customer before digging into one of those lol! I might have given up on the welding after the 20th break-off, good on you for sticking at it!
Its a Subaru thing. Heli-coil it. Bolt up the old pump and use it as a drill guide for the Heli-coil drill. The Heli-coil drill is is a perfect fit in the holes of the water pump. Don't forget to mark the drill for the depth you need to drill. Had to do this on a friends Subaru.
Patience wins again. You have a good amount of experience with broken bolts. However your experience is still insufficient. You were winning with each back and forth turning of the nut. Where you lost was pushing the limits of each turn. The force was what you lost to. Had you be content with the back and forth only gain very little, it is the little that wins. Thanks Ray. The old school guy.
I saw a nice trick sone days ago. A piece of copper pipe that fits into the hole down to broken stud. A welding stick pot into the pipe and start welding until it is really hot and just let the stick stick to the metal. Rewmove the pipe, snip of the stick except for a little piece. Nut over the end and weld. That gives a way sturdier connection. And get a vibro gun. Thats way quicker then "back and forth, back and forth, back and forth, back and forth, back and forth" ;)
Nice job. Next time, drill a hole down the centre, then use heat from a torch, followed by freeze spray, knock in a torx or splined bit, then unscrew the broken bolt. I have actually used that method.
Good job with the extraction. Been there before and I’ve been luck 🍀 with a technique. Drill out the treads, install a same diameter rod with epoxy/j/b weld 24 cure time Smooth surface flush, install old water pump. Use old water pump bolt hole as jig for new bolt drill hole tap and die. 🤞 good luck
Back to the Broken Bolt Pt1 Mechanic Damages Engine! Drove IN Pushed Out! Subaru Outback Legacy 2.2 2.5 th-cam.com/video/Hv95La9hfyY/w-d-xo.html
I knew you'd get this after your last successful manifold bolt extraction on that Chevy pickup. You're getting better at welding. Soon you'll be getting it done in fewer and fewer tries.
You can always use a power strip for an I/O switch after bypassing the power switch.
I would not have gotten it out while in the chassis
because I would not have broken it off while in the chassis
REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
Good job Ray! I would elect putting a longer stud in that hole and using lock tite. That way the next water pump isn't an issue and that stud would never have to come out of those threads again, and it gives you the extra length
Off topic but the dashboard origin was very interesting.
Have one to offer. With foot on the brake or hands on the steering wheel plus many other applications, what do you make of the word Haptic in your profession?
Endeavor to persevere, Ray’s new motto. Who would have thought watching someone trying to extract a bolt would have me sitting on the edge of my seat at 4:30 in the morning. 😮😮
We all do
It's the most authentic show on TH-cam...and I feel every pain, every setback like it's my own because I have been there, done that, and suffered.. but hardly ever with the patients of Ray.
Hahahahaha,me too.😂
One thing I've learned from watching Ray for around two years is that my subjective distrust of bolt extractors is rational.
I was trying to extricate a bolt from an excavator and went through seven bolt extractors before I gave up and played the game of gradually increasing drill bit sizes.
Sure, I dinged the threads a little, but not enough to have to recoil the hole.
@@richpeggyfranks490 I found it kind of annoying. I prefer shop sounds over music overlay.
Bloody good job there, mate. You've done yourself proud. Perseverance is *definitely* the name of the game in these situations. Well done Ray - it's stuff like this that keeps us all coming back for more. No question that there's a whole chunk of the internet cheering and barracking for you and raising a glass to your success. Keep it up Ray, you're a true inspiration.
Hey Ray
I'm a retired Robotics Engineer and Machinist. I always removed broken bolt's and stud's from equipment using the same procedure but after I welded the bead on the bolt I would chill it down and flood with penetrating oil. And tap with a small hammer to unlock the threads.
Then weld the nut on and attempt extraction.
Love watching the videos.
Brings back a lot of knuckle busting memories.
cooling and time is your friend!
And i always tighten it first, seems to break free better
I'm not a welder but I thought it should cool down a lot more.
I suspect the slow cooling is what did the trick. The heat from the welding expanded the bolt which would wedge it in, and dousing the nut with penetrating oil doesn't really cool down the bolt enough for it to contract again.
Cooling it down and then hitting it with some freeze spray might have made it even easier since the bolt would chill down and contract.
I saw a video with a steel bolt in an aluminum block. They used a car battery after adding a bead to the bolt to heat up (red) the bolt. This caused expansion and contraction. One tip is not to quickly cool the welded area. This may cause the weld to crack. I like the tapping the bead with a hammer trick after cooling down. Patience and perseverance will always win.
You are more mentally tough than anyone I have ever met! Spending hours and hours on a seemingly hopeless extraction and coming out on top is amazing! Glad the other engine was not necessary.
Install a m6 x 1mm stud to full depth of your threads, and use stud retainer locking compound. Then secure the pump with an m6 x 1mm nut. The stud with locking compound will allow more clamping force than trying to use a bolt.
Now that’s a good idea. Why didn’t I think of that?
It’ll still have different thermal movement characteristics, but it’s far less likely to pull out the remaining threads. That’s much better than my suggestion.
Good one!
Great idea!
¡Exactamente!!! Sería lo mejor... he estado allí.
that is a great idea that way you will get full penetration (ha ha)
Helicoil with a stud, your golden. Strong work Ray.
Another good save.
Suggestion. Use the old waterpump as a guide, drill out that knackered thread and put an insert in place. Again, use the pump as a guide for the insert tap. It's a scrap pump anyway, so drilling out that one fixing hole to the correct size for each stage in that process is a zero-cost.
I'd also suggest now might be a good time to go for gas shielding rather than that nasty gasless stuff.
Perseverance aka patient stubbornness will succeed almost every time. Well done Ray.
I agree but he needs to use more of his patiences up front before the original fastener breaks.
@RainmanRaysRepairs wanted to thank you. Our 04 f150 driver window fell down. Was able to pull the door card and get the window up temporarily. Couldn't have done it without your videos
I cannot believe how happy and relieved I am for you Ray. This is a fantastic result.
Ray is consistently the calmest, most professional technician that I have ever seen. Many ratchet clickers and wrench turners should watch this and take notes.
*breaks bolt off in block*
“well that’s not what I wanted.”
Nothing in the least sketchy to see here! 😂😂 Well done for having such patience, persistence and fortitude. I’m so pleased it’s working out for you. You deserve it. And thanks for giving me a few laughs at your expense!
Persevere adapt and over come. I don't know who was more excited when it finally came out. You or I.
Yah need to make a trophy out of that bolt Ray!
Just do a threaded insert Ray, they are actually stronger than the aluminum block.
Great job!
Exactly 👍👍
I concur.
Agreed. Also you are in a great location to install the threaded insert. Depending on how close you are to the water jacket, I'd put some JBWeld on the outside of the threaded insert to ensure the nutsert to block threads don't leak. I don't think the bolt itself will leak around the threads or it would have leaked from the factory. A very light amout of sealant on the bold threads can be added later if the bolt does seep under preassure.
The holes do not go all the way threw into the water jacket.
@@ron1584 The reason I meantioned it was because he will need to drill out the hole to the size recommended by the nutsert and then tap it. I raised the point for others that might be dealing with a different engine and use the same extraction method that results in damaged threads.
The bolt is stuck because of aluminum oxide from the steel and aluminum galvanic corrosion. Sulfuric and nitric acids can dissolve aluminum oxide, as can alkalis such as lye or caustic potash. Mixed with water, the alkali makes a caustic solution that dissolves the aluminum oxide.. that’s how it’s done..
Ray I'll give you props for not giving up, hope the rest works out for you and the customer.
Patience and perseverance pays off! Proof right here as Ray performs another mechanical miracle. Nice work sir.
If the threads aren't bottomed out in engine block, try tapping with a bottom tap to get more threads in bolt hole.
You worked your magic on that job, Ray. It took some 'stick-to-it-iveness' and time but you did it. Saved the customer the cost of a new engine. You are gold.
Rainman, a thread chaser would apply here because they are less aggressive and can restore threads to the bottom. You can borrow them at parts stores. Loctite once made a product to restore threads with an epoxy compound to 80% of torque with all the threads stripped. Just sharing from experience.
I have been in this position, there not words to express how happy I am to se that broken bit of bolt come out, Congratulations!!
Sometimes you just need to improvise to get the job done.
Well done Ray.
So glad you saved that engine . You could have the hole aluminium welded and re-drill and thread. but a longer bolt to pick up the bottom threads is a good option. Awesome video. Kept be thoroughly engaged hoping for success. Ray is having himself a great day.
yep as you say aluminium weld and re tap i the best option --- or drill and use a threaded insert .
I knew you could do it. As many times as you heated it and let it cool from welding, the easy-out was probably soft enough to drill by the time it finally came out.
Now you need to glue that piece to a small nice of Mahogany, add an engraved brass plate giving the dates, and seal the whole thing with some extra clear table-top epoxy like they make the hatch cover tables out of.
If your boy follows you in the biz, one day when he is facing the same thing, he can look over and see that Dad never gave up.
Also, I know you know, but be sure to not use that welder much until you get the covers back on. That fan normally draws the cool air through the housing, and over the transformer and diodes. Without the cover on, the fan does nothing except circulate air around its self, and you can burn up a diode quick with a long weld.
You should have a collection of the broken/welded bolts to show the accomplishments you've done. And the equipment you've saved. Don't care about anybody else I like your terminology 😊
Do they have EDM in your area ? At work ( aircraft engines ) they would remove steel bolts from aluminum cases/ light weight metal cases when they break in the holes. It would leave the threads undamage in the holes. Not sure how the processes works but it works well.
Nice work Ray Ya got it out. I would clean the Threads with a thread chaser 24:53 @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Congratulations in finally beating the nemesis of all! usual rule of thumb if there is the left-over thread amount is as the bolt diameter that should be enough to hold otherwise changing that bolt to a stud which has been ground down to taper end to accommodate the no threads at base of hole will guaranty full grip!
he probably does not understand 'taper'=make ur own tap, in the softer aluminium.
Tool makers use bottoming taps after standard taps. The bottoming taps cut all the threads to the same depth. Then the stud adhered in the block as others in the comments suggested.
Don't forget about the capacitor in side the unit. It holds a charge even when UN-pluged.
YES......that would really hurt!
A little tip, if you are using Flux core weld, you don't need the shroud on the end of your mig gun, that is only for when you are using gas.
You never gave up on it and that is what counts. Although to some people removing an engine just to extract 1 broken bolt may seem a tad bit extreme,...... but you had to do whatever it took to get the job done. CONGRATS!!
The cooling system is on fire! Excellent one sir 😎
I hate when that happens.
This channel needs more broken bolts. It's very entertaining watching you save the world 😅👍
Well done Ray! Use a bottom tap to tap clear to the bottom of the hole and then use an appropriate stud and nut instead of a bolt.
YES - THIS IS THE CORRECT REPAIR - JUST DO IT !!!!!!
The cheering that I did as I leapt right out of my seat when that came out. I didn’t know how invested I was in this Rubisu engine. Well in Ray. Respect. Patience and perseverance.
Good job skippy, just so you know a stripped out 6x1.00 hole is the perfect size for a 1/4 x 28 standard thread in case you already have the pump on and the bolt strips out you don't have to remove it, no drilling no heli coils just run the tap in and put the standard bolt in, we keep those bolts in stock at my shop, in different lengths, just for that.
I admire your tenacity! Perseverance pays in the end.
Congrats on getting that blasted bolt out Ray. All the trouble that bolt gave you I would hang it on the wall as a sign of victory lol. Again congrats on winning the battle.
Yes, and make a note not to fight with Subaru engine water pumps anymore! 😅
That's a true souvenir! It needs to be preserved as a testimony to your perseverance!
My man, I cannot believe you persevered and got that stupid bolt out of there. Congratulations that was absolutely a job well done!
It's only a bolt not a valve in a heart , come on
Thanks for not giving up on this engine.
Even if the thread are dead, I think an insert would be a valid solution.
Yikes be careful I believe the welder has some large capacitors, discharge them always prior to Messing with it! And congrats on the bolt you stepped right in sit😂
A win is a win no matter how ugly. A testament to your skill.
The build up of anxiety in these stuck bolt removals is taking years off my life 😂
Quenching the weld will make it more brittle than allowing it too cool naturally. I'd also try and chemically clean the inside of the nut before attempting to weld it, helping get a better join between the nut and built up weld.
Now this is why you hire a skilled mechanic who also knows his way around a workshop and knows how to do metalworking. You're an absolute craftsman, Ray.
Great video as always Ray have a great day @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Before you try and mount a water pump, take a straight edge and verify absolutely that the block is not warped or uneven after all that localized heat application. Resurface that area if necessary. Perhaps an extra-thick gasket could compensate for any unevenness.
That much welding and not a budge I would have after all that welding time and effort just drilled it out stepping up drill bit sizes trying to nick the threads on the broken bolt till it comes out to save the block threads and if the block threads get messed up re tap them and if that don't work Heli Coil it 22:22 @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Great demonstration of perseverance Ray, A+ 👌
I was holding my breath so much I nearly passed out. Well done you for your perseverance. It's only insanity , as in doing the same thing over and over expecting a different result, if it never works, but it did work. So that's all right then.
You know you’ve got a good channel going when you’ve 38k views & 7k likes & counting as people get invested in watching you weld, weld, reweld, & weld again all hoping that you can work it out of there. Speaks to your originality, humor, & authenticity. Good show ol man.
God works in mysterious ways Ray. Engine lost in shipping, that gave you the fortitude to repair the one on the bench. You are blessed and we love you and your wonderful family.
Glad to see the successful results but I must admit I would have immediately put in a helicoil.
Thats what I was thinking. Is there a valid reason why some people dont even consider it until a last resort? Drilling and tapping a helicoil looks so much easier than this and itll introduce fresh threads. Any thoughts?
A Time-Sert would be FAR superior.
wow ray i seriously lost for a word..you patience is unbelievable
Woot! Good to see progress on that bolt extraction. After hearing the lost in transit engine, I was hoping to see you figure a way to get it done.
Pulling the engine was the right move, straight from the get-go. Tiny extractors usually break off in my experience, so I almost never try to use them. But now you've got a half-damaged hole where you could do one more step and be back to having one as strong as it was before the bolt broke. Use the waterpump as a jig to counterbore the old threads out and shoot a Helicoil or Timesert in there.
Good job Ray! Patience and Persistence wins every time!
The Subaru episodes had me on the edge of my seat more than any other of your videos. I didn't want to believe that one bolt could ruin the whole engine, so I was deeply satisfied when you got it👍
Well done fella. That stud was an absolute stinker 😬
Your patience is unbounding 😂
Whoop whoop!
Edge of my seat throughout that and I forced myself not to look at the comments, so no spoilers either. I genuinely didn’t think that was going to work, knowing there were broken extractors stuck in there, after the last one.
Also with the alloy having a lower melting point than the steel bolt, I expected more of it to have blown away, by the time you got enough penetration on the remains of the bolt.
As I mentioned in the first one, you can use the old water pump as a drill guide, to centre your drill hole, but you couldn’t do that this time because, by the time I said it, you already had hardened steel broken off in it and you’d never get that out with a drill.
This is amazing to see, so once again I’ve learned something. I hope never to have to do that, but having seen it, I’ll at least give it a go, if I ever need to.
It’s a hard call to make, whether to use a longer bolt or a thread insert. The insert won’t take the same torque as an original thread, but the longer bolt will have different expansion characteristics.
On balance, I’d probably go with the bolt, as it’s the least invasive. If the gasket leaks, or the threads pull out, you still have the thread insert as an option.
Major respect for keeping at it and not giving up. Virtual high five.
The results indicate your skill level.
A few thoughts: plain unplated nuts just a bit better. Lightly tapping on the end of the assembly with a small hammer while turning back a forth seems to help.
Final tapping with a bottoming tap, finally using a red lock tight stud in place of a bolt.
Great videos feels like we're in the shop .
Congrats! I imagine the feeling of getting that out must be amazing!
Congrats on the success, we'll earned. Probably the most exciting video in a long time.
It's so awesome to hear the excitement in Ray's voice when he accomplishes something that he has lost hope in. I was so sure that last try had broken also, I almost fist pumped and shouted when I saw the bolt was out.
another epic video ray outstanding but the most important thing is to have yourself a great day ray
Was cheering so loud when that bolt came out my wife came inside asking what in the world happened. Lol. Woooo Hoooooo!!!! Great job!!!
I have read a lot of the comments and a lot of people were slamming your welding or your technique. That is all immaterial, the main thing is that bolt is out. To clean up threads to bottom is use a bottom tap or just grind your tap flat, you should get a couple more threads. I really enjoy your videos
Ray, I know you were successful this time but maybe a few tips for the next time. When using the brush to “clean” the weld area, you were actually introducing contaminates to the weld area and that is one of the reasons it kept breaking. Yes a tig welder works a lot better but a lot of guys do not have a tig welder. Ones you had the nut welded on and cooled a little, use the small propane torch to heat up the aluminum around the bolt! This process has worked very well for me in the past. I now have a tig welder and will use that on my next broken bolt!
Perseverance and Frankenwelder did the trick. Yeah!
You have renewed my faith in you after the replacement engine was lost. I can see this working with a bolt 1/4 inch longer. It has to be exactly the right length. Not short two threads and not bottoming before tight. I can see Ray drilling the hole two threads deeper but no more than that.
Never give up. When you try hard, you win !!! Keep up the good work.
That was always an engine out job, it's the kind of task that can lead to spanners bouncing off walls from sheer frustration. Well done Ray
When i regularly take the most rotted out bolts you can imagine from marine service motors I have 3 tricks for you:
1. If possible drill the center of the bolt out since this allows it to shrink more than 5x as much as a solid.
2. Use that box end or breaker with a snug fit and start with the wiggling you were doing every time. Corrosion breaks down inside the thread that way but piles up if you try to run it out to early.
3. Aluminum becomes plastic at about the same temperature as the redhard temp of steel. So as last resort keep the nut almost but not quite glowing and gently turn it out to re form the block threads. Keep in mind if the bolt is damage itll take the threads with it though and need a helicoil
Wow! I was sweating just watching this! I think the bolt started to unthread at the 23 minute mark. You were still expecting the weld to break, but you were actually moving it. Cliffhanger!
I had this happen on replacement of a thermostat. Bolt snaped off. Used a drill and a snap on easy out to extract it. Worked 💪
Thanks for another great video. Hello from Pa USA 🇺🇸. Heat index 106.
Thanks for saving this 1999 vehicle. I also have a 1999 vehicle and i do everything i can to keep it on the road, I don't want any of these crazy newer vehicles.
YO!! Congrats on the bolt extraction!! Saved that engine, and possibly the whole car, from the scrap heap!!
You have no idea how satisfying that was seeing that bolt come out finally!!
Just a tip, take a small carbide burr on a die grinder and grind the end threads out of the hole before you weld. You can also shine the end of the broken bolt up with it also. Weld a washer, then weld a nut to the washer. I've done 100's over the years and that's the way. Lol
Dude South Main Auto and Ray would make a hell of a mechanic duo. They’d be able to conquer anything auto related!
💪
As an Industrial MachineRepairman , whenever I encounter a stubborn bolt. Do over power it 👎. Smack it very hard on every direction, while spraying it with penetrating oil. Then use a box end wrench working it back and forth to get it to move. DON’T continue to keep wrenching on it if it’s tight. Continue to work it back and forth all the way out 👍
We always started with a left-handed drill-bit. Start with a small one, then work up to one just smaller than the tap drill size. In many cases, when you get close, the remains will unscrew themselves.
i had the same reaction as u ray, no way. that bolt seemed impossible but just gota keep at it. that attitude has saved me thousands over the years of not hiring someone else to do work when i knew if i just pushed the the crap, it would pay off in the end. way to go
You were well rewarded for not giving up, well done Ray!
Congratulations, perfect example of "sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't ".
I saved my 2010 Harley Block years ago. Their service tech over torqued a primary cover bolt. I used a Heli Coil kit, drilled the hole to the next size, tapped the hole, threaded the heli coil insert, which brought it back to the original size. The Service manager at the Harley shop went nuts, telling me it would never work or wouldn't last. He wanted to install a $5,000 factory rebuilt motor. 75,000 miles or so later my $10 repair was still holding tight.
Who knew that so many people could be invested in removing a broken bolt. Excellent job!
Ray, if you have never tried it, try using a hollow tube, then weld inside the tube onto the broken bolt, then you can crush the upper tube or weld a nut onto the tube and try that.
I'm glad you didn't give up, very proud of you,
You are absolutely great at our work.
Major second-hand anxiety! Had a similar battle with a water pump bolt on a Sonic 2 months ago. That was #3 for 2023 so now certain cars get a disclaimer to the customer before digging into one of those lol! I might have given up on the welding after the 20th break-off, good on you for sticking at it!
A healthy dose of perseverance and patience along with never quitting will go a long way.
Its a Subaru thing. Heli-coil it. Bolt up the old pump and use it as a drill guide for the Heli-coil drill. The Heli-coil drill is is a perfect fit in the holes of the water pump. Don't forget to mark the drill for the depth you need to drill. Had to do this on a friends Subaru.
Patience wins again. You have a good amount of experience with broken bolts. However your experience is still insufficient. You were winning with each back and forth turning of the nut. Where you lost was pushing the limits of each turn. The force was what you lost to. Had you be content with the back and forth only gain very little, it is the little that wins. Thanks Ray. The old school guy.
I saw a nice trick sone days ago.
A piece of copper pipe that fits into the hole down to broken stud. A welding stick pot into the pipe and start welding until it is really hot and just let the stick stick to the metal.
Rewmove the pipe, snip of the stick except for a little piece. Nut over the end and weld. That gives a way sturdier connection.
And get a vibro gun. Thats way quicker then "back and forth, back and forth, back and forth, back and forth, back and forth" ;)
Glad to see you're not bursting into flames from the heat Ray!
I, myself did a short happy dance when thay bolt came out
That was one of your toughest broke bolt removals Ray.
Excellent.
-SALUTE-
Nice job. Next time, drill a hole down the centre, then use heat from a torch, followed by freeze spray, knock in a torx or splined bit, then unscrew the broken bolt. I have actually used that method.
Success, patience and perseverance. So happy for you. You saved. the engine
Good job with the extraction.
Been there before and I’ve been luck 🍀 with a technique.
Drill out the treads, install a same diameter rod with epoxy/j/b weld
24 cure time
Smooth surface flush, install old water pump.
Use old water pump bolt hole as jig for new bolt drill hole tap and die.
🤞 good luck