The Rlaarlo Omni-Terminator is an awesome small RC basher! Is it the worlds best 1/12 1/14 scale RC? Let's do a full teardown and find out! Non-affiliate Link: rlaarlo.com/pages/rlaarlo-omn...
For me as someone who can make a decent analysis of design language/materials used, its nice that there's at least one youtuber who takes them apart and shows what makes them tick. Very important and he does great narrating!
Yeah there seems to be a very well put together truck. It handles far better than I expected it to and the shock tuning feels just about perfect. Haven't really been able to push it hard just cuz of the lack of power but we'll fix that :-)
I already have the Rlaarlo AMX-12 buggy. I would say Rlaarlo is one step below the top dog brands qualitywise while being significantly cheaper. For people who are not hardcore bashers this might very well be the sweet spot.
That seems like a reasonable evaluation though I will say that this feels like a pretty big step up from the previous vehicles that they have released.
I am so damn envious😂 You lucky ... guy... you already have the Omni Terminator and I in Europe dont even have the Arrma Kraton6s EXB V2 available... damn
That is a really nice rc its hard to find anything that is decent and brushless for this price. This is what I have been advocating for is good reasonably priced rc cars to get people into the hobby sure the 8s stuff is bonkers the 6s is a blast but its all expensive so this is nice to see
This is what i been waiting for!! I hope it's good. It seems to be exactly what the HW 10BL combos were made for. That's the plan for mine at least. Well as soon as it's actually available to us regular folk, lol.
I've got a couple packs through it now and so far I'm really impressed with it. Not really sure about the ultimate durability yet as it doesn't quite have enough power to really put the screws to but we'll find out about that soon!
Going to order a couple based on this review. Very cool breakdown of what is in it. Pre-order starts Saturday the 17th at 11am EST correct? And I need few more receivers for some other projects.
@@OmniMan_Racing unfortunately not without getting the larger motor mount that comes on the carbon fiber version. I'll have a video out very soon discussing it all.
That's a tough one. I don't think you're going to get any more durability out of the carbon fiber version but it does come with us somewhat better transmitter and slightly better power system though I suspect you might want to upgrade that either way so maybe just save the money and get the aluminum version.
Unfortunately it doesn't really work like that because the clutch has to be set strong enough to actually remove the screw. The 1.5 mm screws in this are not the best quality and the one that the head stripped on was thread locked in so it was pretty tight.
A great battery to use in the Terminator is something like this high-density, 'shorty' LiHV one used mostly in crawlers, GENS Ace 60C, 4300mah (90x42x30). A good way to secure it without any modifications is to put it on its SIDE (it's 30mm wide), held down using the included brackets and additional straps as cross-straps. No need to relocate the ESC either since this battery is only ~90mm long. Putting a 20mm piece of foam or something in front of the battery would not only ensure stability but put as much weight towards the back of the RC as possible. However, if you don't ever plan on relocating the ESC to allow using ~140mm, or so, long batteries, the best option, as I did, is shaving/cutting off the bottom inside-left ridge of the battery tray, which is only there to allow the loops/brackets to be installed for the cross-straps anyway, so that now, ~42mm wide batteries can easily lay PERFECTLY flat in that battery tray, and can still use the original, single strap. I'm not a big fan of the higher center of gravity (CG) created when placing batteries on their sides. You can also use the included ~6mm wide foam along the inside left to stabilize the battery even further once that ridge is removed. I should also add that this particular battery is a high voltage battery (LiHV). You can charge it to a regular Lipo voltage of ~12.6V, OR if you have a charger that can also charge LiHV, it can be safely charged to ~13V to give it that little extra punch! Yes, it indeed goes to 11.... ;)
All good information though I would personally recommend against charging a battery above its specified maximum voltage. You might be able to get away with it but you never know when a battery you get doesn't have that headroom and you end up blowing it up.
@@DoRC 🤨 To be clearer, you should NOT charge a regular Lipo battery to the same higher voltage of that which is "specified" for a LiHV battery, which is indeed 3.8V/cell nominal, and 4.35V/cell fully charged. (3S=11.4V, 13.05V, respectively). The numbers for a regular, everyday Lipo are only 3.7V/cell nominal, and 4.2V/cell fully charged. (3S=11.1V, 12.6V, respectively)!
Great stuff, I have the AK787, only run it 2-3 times and it's great. The only thing I manage to break is the little servo on the rear wing. I wonder if this battery strap system can be put on the AK787. I like this truck, I will try to save money for christmas.
I really like the looks of the Ralalo stuff. Would be great to see them get picked up and supported by some local hobby shops. Have to like when a company gives you options. One thing I don't like is the nonstandard size servo and some of those real small screws.
I think the servo is a standard mini size servo. I found a couple that looked like they were the right size designed for helicopters. You could probably do something like a reefs 99 with an adapter or maybe even figure out how to put a full size servo in there if you relocate the receiver. I'm sure some people will figure it out. Fortunately the stock servo seems to be okay if not terribly fast.
Great teardown. Its one of the things i love about your channel. This looks really nice. Just wish it was 1/10th scale. Currently the Machete is on sale for $299 for the 4s version so much better value so i think I'll grab that and i also grabbed the hammer rey on sale too or id probably be in on this as well. Probably down the road for sure.
Here's a pretty complete listing of what you get for your extra $50 when you go from the Standard (aka, "Metal") version to the Carbon Fiber version: - Aluminum chassis brace TO---> Carbon fiber chassis brace AND lower-arms' reinforcement inserts (the chassis/deck itself remains aluminum) - 45A ESC TO---> 60A ESC - 28mm dia. 3100kv-2852 motor TO---> 36mm dia. 2650kv-3650 motor - Mount for 28mm motors TO---> Mount for 36mm motors - 16T & 19T pinions TO---> 24T & 27T pinions - 4-ch Tx/Rx, 150m range TO---> 6-ch Tx/Rx, 350m range, w/GYRO & "One-Click Flipping" (Self-Righting) - Sintered metal alloy Spur gear TO---> Chrome Steel Spur gear (CNC) - Straight-cut sintered metal alloy Input & Diff gears TO---> Helical (Spiral-Cut) Chrome Steel Input & Diff gears (CNC) - Black/Green Polycarbonate (PC) body (was PVC) TO---> All Black Polycarbonate (PC) body
Yeah the only thing I missed is the CNC machined gears for the differential. I'm still not convinced that the body on the alloy one is not polycarbonate. It certainly feels like pc
Very nice! I was looking at their website on the truck's page and saw a picture that said : ''easy removal of the center differential''. That was fun. There's a nice spec sheet, I would also run it on 4s if I'm guessing correctly 😋🙂. Or there's the possibility of swaping a 2852 4400kv from a 1/14 hypergo, they also run a 45 amp 3s esc.
Yeah you should be able to but I don't think it would really make a lot of differences so far as the power is concerned. The center differential isn't terribly difficult to remove but I don't think easy is the term I would use for it :-)
this truck is sic! I just ordered two Rlaarlo AMX-12 buggy's for me an my son as our fist rc vehicles, but i might just end up returning one and buying the black terminator lol Though i wish i could choose the black and green shell instead. looks better than the plain black.
When you reviewed the machetes 6s do you know what the pole count was in the motor 4074 2100kv.? I upgraded to max6 g2 esc with stock motor .. I've got electrical cogging 😢 Thank you in advance for any information you could help me with!!🤟
Most sensorless brushless motors are going to be four pole in this hobby. Check to see if there is a firmware update available for the Max 6G2. The max 5G2 had some pretty bad coghing issues and they fixed it recently with a firmware update.
Hey thank you very much for the fast reply!! I will check that firmware I thought I had it updated but maybe I don't really appreciate the fast response and the information you put out in your videos also I love how you break them down and put them back together like that looking forward to seeing that new car you got on 4S Bash on brother..!! 🤟
Kenny, I can't decide between this and tekno Mt410 2.0. I know the tekno is large 10th scale and this is a much smaller 10th (Probably closer to 1/12th scale). I'm looking to replace my big rock and stampede 4x4. I need a small basher. The omni terminator is nice, but it seems to be bouncy and unpredictable at 1/12th. Which one do you recommend?
I think the two are different enough that should be fairly straightforward. This is smaller and way cheaper. The 410 2.0 is probably going to cost you at least three times as much to build if not more. I will say that this truck bashes bigger than it is in my opinion so it's smaller size really isn't that big of a deal. That being said the 410 2.0 is a great truck and is very high quality. I think I would just make the decision based on price and whether or not you feel like building an RC.
@IsaacSchultz-lz8jc yeah that's definitely strange. They probably got The shape off Google or something and I doubt they even know what it is. Could be wrong though
Probably wouldn't be worth making a whole video about but there's an extra set of straps that come in the box. You take the front and rear stops off the chassis and then you install the extra straps sideways. You then have to relocate the ESC to on top of the center brace bars. I have a video that shows it to some extent.
Technically yes though unless you go really high end with the cells it's probably not going to have enough jam to run the system properly. You're also going to run into issues with the low voltage cutoff on the ESC because the voltages are different between lithium ion and lithium polymer batteries.
@@DoRC That's the question isn't it? I suspect otherwise, Traxxas batteries would at least meet, if not outperform, their listed C ratings. Any half-fast company can put whatever unregulated, number on a lipo battery and call it a day. However, a massive market leader has to worry about liability.
From the factory: Shock Oil: Front & Rear = 40wt (500cst) Diff Oil: Front & Rear = 20K wt, Center = 60K wt The only thing I would change at the top is the center diff to something from about 100K to maybe 150K max, depending on the surface.....
I didn't test it. Out of the box at least mine would not have had enough power to self-right. Works great on for us though. Maybe the carbon version has enough juice. Personally I think you should do it manually though. You have more control over it that way and are ess likely to break something.
Only thing i don't understand is the battery. My first RC, current RC, a Rlaarlo AmD12, is 2s and comes with a 2s usb charger. If this car doesn't come with a usb 3s charger, i need to get a proper charger and at that point i feel like i might as well buy into the bigger brands with a little bit more cash. Could you do 4s with two 2s batteries charged by usb cable? Anyhow, that's my only gripe so far. Shock mounts can be changed redrilled retapped and upgraded
Yes you could technically run two batteries in series but I wouldn't recommend it in order to avoid buying a charger. Those USB chargers are really aren't very good and honestly probably should just be thrown away as soon as they come out of the box. They tend to not really accurately charge the batteries and they also don't give you any ability to monitor what's going on with the batteries. Lipos can fail and if you aren't able to see the warning signs of failure they can catastrophically fail.
@@DoRC ahh thanks for clarifying! I assumed that when it's CE certified (or C E, china can be sneaky) it shouldn't really be dangerous. I guess this car is still a budget banger that does allow for some spare budget for chargers, guess i need a good charger soon! 😆
hey @@DoRC in light of that last comment, last sentence.."Lipos can fail and if you aren't able to see the warning signs of failure they can catastrophically fail." -for the same price, would you prefer a duo charger, or a single charger that also displays internal resistance? my rc veteran friend says he's never worried about IR and advises me to go with a duo charger or a cheaper single. And just toss batteries when they're wonky. From what i can gather, higher/rising or varying internal resistance means a cell is on it's way out.. So while it's nice to know whats happening, my friend says any charger will be protected to quit charging, when internal resistance is becoming a practical issue for that particular battery. What's your take?
@insanebmxthomas most chargers whether single or dual will give you internal resistance. In my opinion internal resistance is the single most important early warning sign of impending liposal failure. Most of the time when a lipo cell fails due to aging you'll be able to see the internal resistance going up before and possibly without any other symptoms occurring. I would never have lipos without the ability to monitor the internal resistance. Check out the hota s6. It's the charger I recommend everyone is a dual charger and has plenty of power to charge pretty much any battery you want. Not the cheapest thing in the world but chargers are a buy once cry once kind of thing
@@DoRC will do, thanks for that complete answer 😁 im in europe so i hope the Hota S6 is available here! Either way this is great advice that will land me on a safe charger! Now on to check out the Corally Syncro 4 teardown! ✌️
From the factory: Shock Oil: Front & Rear = 40wt (500cst) Diff Oil: Front & Rear = 20K wt, Center = 60K wt The only thing I would change at the top is the center diff to something from about 100K to maybe 150K max, depending on the surface.....
@Sam-nz2zs The only difference in the drivetrain is that the aluminum version has sintered steel gears and the carbon fiber one has machined steel gears.
@Sam-nz2zs hard to tell. The machined gears are going to be stronger but the sintered gears haven't broken on me so not really sure if it's an advantage that's actually needed
you need to start putting up links with everything you do. Your channel has some goo info but without links, it becomes a almost useless because it has no links
I don't normally do links because I don't want people to think I'm selling them anything or making money off of any of this because I'm not but I did go ahead and add a non-affiliate link to the description. Normally though you can just Google whatever I'm reviewing and find it fairly easily.
What does links have to do with anything? I disagree strongly. He definitely links when necessary. But when he doesn't a 2 sec Google search will solve your problem.
@@cwatson42785 I can see how it would be nice to have the links though. It's probably become an expectation since pretty much everybody else on TH-cam is trying to sell things for that sweet sweet affiliate money.
This has an almost 2 inch longer wheelbase and is quite a bit bigger than the 116th Traxxas cars. Also whereas those cars do have a lot of power for their size they are kind of fragile out of the box and very difficult to work on compared to modern designs like this one.
Great breakdown, like how you deconstruct it new out of the box to see how quick it is to work on
Yeah I think what's inside these things is just as important as how they bash so I figure other people will want to know as well :-)
For me as someone who can make a decent analysis of design language/materials used, its nice that there's at least one youtuber who takes them apart and shows what makes them tick. Very important and he does great narrating!
these little guys come with all the features , cool little truck , can't wait to see it with the upgrade
Yeah there seems to be a very well put together truck. It handles far better than I expected it to and the shock tuning feels just about perfect. Haven't really been able to push it hard just cuz of the lack of power but we'll fix that :-)
One of the first with this truck 👍 Thanks for getting it out so fast.
You're welcome and thanks for watching :-)
I already have the Rlaarlo AMX-12 buggy. I would say Rlaarlo is one step below the top dog brands qualitywise while being significantly cheaper. For people who are not hardcore bashers this might very well be the sweet spot.
That seems like a reasonable evaluation though I will say that this feels like a pretty big step up from the previous vehicles that they have released.
I am so damn envious😂 You lucky ... guy... you already have the Omni Terminator and I in Europe dont even have the Arrma Kraton6s EXB V2 available... damn
Yeah it seems like you guys get shafted especially by the big brands.
Go for the 4s. It's way more fun!
@@forsakenlife4873 The 4S platform is really good
@@DoRC I think so. I have the Outcast and Kraton both in 4s. Love em!
That is a really nice rc its hard to find anything that is decent and brushless for this price. This is what I have been advocating for is good reasonably priced rc cars to get people into the hobby sure the 8s stuff is bonkers the 6s is a blast but its all expensive so this is nice to see
Yeah I think this is definitely decent for the price. A little underpowered in this form but that's easily fixable :-)
This is what i been waiting for!! I hope it's good. It seems to be exactly what the HW 10BL combos were made for. That's the plan for mine at least. Well as soon as it's actually available to us regular folk, lol.
I've got a couple packs through it now and so far I'm really impressed with it. Not really sure about the ultimate durability yet as it doesn't quite have enough power to really put the screws to but we'll find out about that soon!
Nice!!! Can’t wait for release in a few days.
What version are you going to get?
@@DoRC Haven't decided just yet. I'm not a RTR kind of guy as I don't like to keep things stock... ever. What is the motor shaft pinion diameter?
The taking apart and checking the diffs part is amazing man, keep it up!
Yeah I love doing deep dives into these trucks and I'm glad you guys enjoy watching it
Wonderfull breakdown. Looking forward to getting mine. 2 days to pre order. 😬
Yeah seems like a pretty good vehicle!
Going to order a couple based on this review. Very cool breakdown of what is in it. Pre-order starts Saturday the 17th at 11am EST correct? And I need few more receivers for some other projects.
As far as I know yes.
That was an awesome video I absolutely loved it thank you so much I want one so bad now
Yeah it's pretty cool. I suspect it's going to be even better on 4S!
Nice dude! I do like that body 😊
Yeah it's a pretty cool truck overall.
Good tear down and bash test mate 👍 I been enjoying mine so far
Glad you enjoyed!
Absolutely cannot wait to get mine. Was only going to order the carbon roller but this version looks good too
Yeah I think all three versions will be fine and I'm not really sure which one to recommend just yet.
@@DoRC does it look like you can put a 36mm motor on the aluminum chassis RTR version?
@@OmniMan_Racing unfortunately not without getting the larger motor mount that comes on the carbon fiber version. I'll have a video out very soon discussing it all.
Always like how you teardown the cars from new before taking them out.
Yeah I really like digging into these things and seeing what's new and different with them! Thanks for watching :-)
Agreed, I second on that sentiment, one of the few rc youtubers that do that, u can then see how long or easy quick to work on!
@lyricofwise6894 I do love tearing things apart!
Excellent review!!! 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks! Be sure to check out my new video on it. It's amazing
Been waiting for this one. Great teardown and first impressions. Debating between the carbon fiber vs aluminum options when the preorder is available.
That's a tough one. I don't think you're going to get any more durability out of the carbon fiber version but it does come with us somewhat better transmitter and slightly better power system though I suspect you might want to upgrade that either way so maybe just save the money and get the aluminum version.
Awesome 🔥
Thanks for watching!
You needed to adjust the clutch on your modded driver to avoid stripping screws.
Unfortunately it doesn't really work like that because the clutch has to be set strong enough to actually remove the screw. The 1.5 mm screws in this are not the best quality and the one that the head stripped on was thread locked in so it was pretty tight.
Always great videos 👍👍
Thanks. Stay tuned for the overpowered video coming!
Thank God for China keeping competition alive against Horizon Hobby and Traxxas (although the US brands are also made in China lol.)
Yeah this thing's pretty awesome. It fits into a size category that there aren't a lot of options for as well so I'm excited for it.
Great review 🎉 so detailed 👍🏻
Glad you enjoyed and thanks for watching!
Oh she ripps😂😂
A little underpowered out of the box but we'll fix that :-)
@@DoRC 😀😃😄
A great battery to use in the Terminator is something like this high-density, 'shorty' LiHV one used mostly in crawlers, GENS Ace 60C, 4300mah (90x42x30).
A good way to secure it without any modifications is to put it on its SIDE (it's 30mm wide), held down using the included brackets and additional straps as cross-straps. No need to relocate the ESC either since this battery is only ~90mm long. Putting a 20mm piece of foam or something in front of the battery would not only ensure stability but put as much weight towards the back of the RC as possible.
However, if you don't ever plan on relocating the ESC to allow using ~140mm, or so, long batteries, the best option, as I did, is shaving/cutting off the bottom inside-left ridge of the battery tray, which is only there to allow the loops/brackets to be installed for the cross-straps anyway, so that now, ~42mm wide batteries can easily lay PERFECTLY flat in that battery tray, and can still use the original, single strap. I'm not a big fan of the higher center of gravity (CG) created when placing batteries on their sides. You can also use the included ~6mm wide foam along the inside left to stabilize the battery even further once that ridge is removed.
I should also add that this particular battery is a high voltage battery (LiHV). You can charge it to a regular Lipo voltage of ~12.6V, OR if you have a charger that can also charge LiHV, it can be safely charged to ~13V to give it that little extra punch! Yes, it indeed goes to 11.... ;)
All good information though I would personally recommend against charging a battery above its specified maximum voltage. You might be able to get away with it but you never know when a battery you get doesn't have that headroom and you end up blowing it up.
@@DoRC 🤨
To be clearer, you should NOT charge a regular Lipo battery to the same higher voltage of that which is "specified" for a LiHV battery, which is indeed 3.8V/cell nominal, and 4.35V/cell fully charged. (3S=11.4V, 13.05V, respectively). The numbers for a regular, everyday Lipo are only 3.7V/cell nominal, and 4.2V/cell fully charged. (3S=11.1V, 12.6V, respectively)!
@@CSL33 sorry I misunderstood what you were saying in the first comment.
Great stuff, I have the AK787, only run it 2-3 times and it's great. The only thing I manage to break is the little servo on the rear wing. I wonder if this battery strap system can be put on the AK787. I like this truck, I will try to save money for christmas.
These are two different platforms so I doubt they would be compatible.
I really like the looks of the Ralalo stuff. Would be great to see them get picked up and supported by some local hobby shops. Have to like when a company gives you options. One thing I don't like is the nonstandard size servo and some of those real small screws.
I think the servo is a standard mini size servo. I found a couple that looked like they were the right size designed for helicopters. You could probably do something like a reefs 99 with an adapter or maybe even figure out how to put a full size servo in there if you relocate the receiver. I'm sure some people will figure it out. Fortunately the stock servo seems to be okay if not terribly fast.
Yeah it would be nice to see local stores carry stuff for it or at least have a good supply of spares.
Great teardown. Its one of the things i love about your channel. This looks really nice. Just wish it was 1/10th scale. Currently the Machete is on sale for $299 for the 4s version so much better value so i think I'll grab that and i also grabbed the hammer rey on sale too or id probably be in on this as well. Probably down the road for sure.
Yeah this thing is a little smaller than 1/10 scale but it actually bashes like a bigger truck. It's pretty fun!
Here's a pretty complete listing of what you get for your extra $50 when you go from the Standard (aka, "Metal") version to the Carbon Fiber version:
- Aluminum chassis brace TO---> Carbon fiber chassis brace AND lower-arms' reinforcement inserts (the chassis/deck itself remains aluminum)
- 45A ESC TO---> 60A ESC
- 28mm dia. 3100kv-2852 motor TO---> 36mm dia. 2650kv-3650 motor
- Mount for 28mm motors TO---> Mount for 36mm motors
- 16T & 19T pinions TO---> 24T & 27T pinions
- 4-ch Tx/Rx, 150m range TO---> 6-ch Tx/Rx, 350m range, w/GYRO & "One-Click Flipping" (Self-Righting)
- Sintered metal alloy Spur gear TO---> Chrome Steel Spur gear (CNC)
- Straight-cut sintered metal alloy Input & Diff gears TO---> Helical (Spiral-Cut) Chrome Steel Input & Diff gears (CNC)
- Black/Green Polycarbonate (PC) body (was PVC) TO---> All Black Polycarbonate (PC) body
Yeah the only thing I missed is the CNC machined gears for the differential. I'm still not convinced that the body on the alloy one is not polycarbonate. It certainly feels like pc
Very nice! I was looking at their website on the truck's page and saw a picture that said : ''easy removal of the center differential''. That was fun. There's a nice spec sheet, I would also run it on 4s if I'm guessing correctly 😋🙂. Or there's the possibility of swaping a 2852 4400kv from a 1/14 hypergo, they also run a 45 amp 3s esc.
Yeah you should be able to but I don't think it would really make a lot of differences so far as the power is concerned.
The center differential isn't terribly difficult to remove but I don't think easy is the term I would use for it :-)
I just got the carbon fiber Edition for 20% off on Amazon limited lightning 5-hour sale I'm super pumped
That's a pretty amazing deal. I'm actually kind of tempted to get another one at that price
Cool
Agreed
this truck is sic! I just ordered two Rlaarlo AMX-12 buggy's for me an my son as our fist rc vehicles, but i might just end up returning one and buying the black terminator lol Though i wish i could choose the black and green shell instead. looks better than the plain black.
It's on pre-order now!
Haha yea. I ordered as soon as the countdown ended
@@rafaelochoa9776 nice
🎉🎉🎉
Thanks for watching :-)
When you reviewed the machetes 6s do you know what the pole count was in the motor 4074 2100kv.? I upgraded to max6 g2 esc with stock motor .. I've got electrical cogging 😢 Thank you in advance for any information you could help me with!!🤟
Most sensorless brushless motors are going to be four pole in this hobby. Check to see if there is a firmware update available for the Max 6G2. The max 5G2 had some pretty bad coghing issues and they fixed it recently with a firmware update.
Hey thank you very much for the fast reply!! I will check that firmware I thought I had it updated but maybe I don't really appreciate the fast response and the information you put out in your videos also I love how you break them down and put them back together like that looking forward to seeing that new car you got on 4S Bash on brother..!! 🤟
@@brucebaker0316 stay tuned it'll be very soon!
Kenny, I can't decide between this and tekno Mt410 2.0. I know the tekno is large 10th scale and this is a much smaller 10th (Probably closer to 1/12th scale). I'm looking to replace my big rock and stampede 4x4. I need a small basher. The omni terminator is nice, but it seems to be bouncy and unpredictable at 1/12th. Which one do you recommend?
I think the two are different enough that should be fairly straightforward. This is smaller and way cheaper. The 410 2.0 is probably going to cost you at least three times as much to build if not more. I will say that this truck bashes bigger than it is in my opinion so it's smaller size really isn't that big of a deal. That being said the 410 2.0 is a great truck and is very high quality. I think I would just make the decision based on price and whether or not you feel like building an RC.
£157 here in the UK from a UK dealer.!! 👍 👍 👍
That's a good price.
What would you pick between this truck & the Savage XS , all be it the Savage is slightly smaller.
I would lean toward this truck but I don't have enough experience with it yet to say that for sure.
What’s some good ramps to buy? I never see videos on that
Pnw RC madness makes a good fairly portable one. I made my big one though.
Pause at 9:46 it looks like the manual has a rotor from a rotary engine on it for some reason.
Or a guitar pick.
Interesting. Yeah that would definitely looks like a rotor. You can even see the spots for the apex seals. Wonder where they got that from.
Just something odd I noticed.
@IsaacSchultz-lz8jc yeah that's definitely strange. They probably got The shape off Google or something and I doubt they even know what it is. Could be wrong though
Did you ever look at the HPI Savage XS? I'm trying to decide between that and the carbon version of this.
Yes. I have a video on the latest version from a year or so ago. I would get this all day long over the Savage XS.
@@DoRC thanks 👍 I will search for the older video
Could you make a video of how a longer and larger battery is mounted than the one the car comes with?
Probably wouldn't be worth making a whole video about but there's an extra set of straps that come in the box. You take the front and rear stops off the chassis and then you install the extra straps sideways. You then have to relocate the ESC to on top of the center brace bars. I have a video that shows it to some extent.
Please can you tell me about the dimensions of the battery tray or the stock 3s lipo? Thanks
Hey sorry I don't know why I didn't see this earlier. Stock tray is 105 long by about 40 wide and around 60ish high.
When did you film this cuz it's winter time now and I don't think you would have leaves on the trees. They should have waterproofed it more.
Lots of evergreens here.
Wish it had a rear spoiler
I usually take the spoilers off of mine so I can self right The more easily. I'm sure you could figure something out with a 3D printed mount
I know this is probably a funny question but could I run a li-lion battery in the Rlaarlo Terminator?
Technically yes though unless you go really high end with the cells it's probably not going to have enough jam to run the system properly. You're also going to run into issues with the low voltage cutoff on the ESC because the voltages are different between lithium ion and lithium polymer batteries.
@@DoRC any other recommendations? I’m just way too nervous about LIPOS being in my house with my family..so looking for best safest option.
@@DoRC and thank you!!!
Any chance you've ever tested Traxxas lipos with that ESR meter. I'd love to know results.
I haven't. I don't have any on hand otherwise I'd be happy to. I suspect it wouldn't be very good.
@@DoRC
That's the question isn't it? I suspect otherwise, Traxxas batteries would at least meet, if not outperform, their listed C ratings. Any half-fast company can put whatever unregulated, number on a lipo battery and call it a day. However, a massive market leader has to worry about liability.
Hey is this the metal version or carbon fiber version?
This is the metal version but I would recommend the carbon version. It's not a lot more money and you get a lot for that money
Another question. What does the booklet say about diff oil?
Just checked and I didn't see anything.
@@DoRC oh
@Sam-nz2zs yeah strangely most RC car manuals don't talk about the thickness of the fluid in the differentials or shocks. Seems odd but also common
@@DoRC yeah I’ve seen a few what have spoke about it. What would you recommend
From the factory:
Shock Oil: Front & Rear = 40wt (500cst)
Diff Oil: Front & Rear = 20K wt, Center = 60K wt
The only thing I would change at the top is the center diff to something from about 100K to maybe 150K max, depending on the surface.....
Does flip function work well
I didn't test it. Out of the box at least mine would not have had enough power to self-right. Works great on for us though. Maybe the carbon version has enough juice. Personally I think you should do it manually though. You have more control over it that way and are ess likely to break something.
@@DoRC does it look durable
@owen8538 absolutely. Check out my newest video for
Only thing i don't understand is the battery. My first RC, current RC, a Rlaarlo AmD12, is 2s and comes with a 2s usb charger.
If this car doesn't come with a usb 3s charger, i need to get a proper charger and at that point i feel like i might as well buy into the bigger brands with a little bit more cash.
Could you do 4s with two 2s batteries charged by usb cable?
Anyhow, that's my only gripe so far. Shock mounts can be changed redrilled retapped and upgraded
Yes you could technically run two batteries in series but I wouldn't recommend it in order to avoid buying a charger. Those USB chargers are really aren't very good and honestly probably should just be thrown away as soon as they come out of the box. They tend to not really accurately charge the batteries and they also don't give you any ability to monitor what's going on with the batteries. Lipos can fail and if you aren't able to see the warning signs of failure they can catastrophically fail.
@@DoRC ahh thanks for clarifying! I assumed that when it's CE certified (or C E, china can be sneaky) it shouldn't really be dangerous.
I guess this car is still a budget banger that does allow for some spare budget for chargers, guess i need a good charger soon! 😆
hey @@DoRC in light of that last comment, last sentence.."Lipos can fail and if you aren't able to see the warning signs of failure they can catastrophically fail." -for the same price, would you prefer a duo charger, or a single charger that also displays internal resistance? my rc veteran friend says he's never worried about IR and advises me to go with a duo charger or a cheaper single. And just toss batteries when they're wonky.
From what i can gather, higher/rising or varying internal resistance means a cell is on it's way out.. So while it's nice to know whats happening, my friend says any charger will be protected to quit charging, when internal resistance is becoming a practical issue for that particular battery. What's your take?
@insanebmxthomas most chargers whether single or dual will give you internal resistance. In my opinion internal resistance is the single most important early warning sign of impending liposal failure. Most of the time when a lipo cell fails due to aging you'll be able to see the internal resistance going up before and possibly without any other symptoms occurring. I would never have lipos without the ability to monitor the internal resistance.
Check out the hota s6. It's the charger I recommend everyone is a dual charger and has plenty of power to charge pretty much any battery you want. Not the cheapest thing in the world but chargers are a buy once cry once kind of thing
@@DoRC will do, thanks for that complete answer 😁 im in europe so i hope the Hota S6 is available here! Either way this is great advice that will land me on a safe charger! Now on to check out the Corally Syncro 4 teardown! ✌️
so pity that can not do a back flip
Not out of the box with the stock gearing but we'll fix that :-)
@@DoRC Great! Wait for your next video!🤙🤙
If I order the goods, can they be sent to Indonesia?
I have no idea. That's something you would need to ask Rlaarlo.
Carbon fiver is defo better for bashing. Better all round with parts and weight and punch … and Ect Ect. Only £50 more
Yeah all around I think the carbon fiber one is the better deal
@@DoRC defo bro
What is stock shock oil
Not sure. It's not in the manual that I could see.
From the factory:
Shock Oil: Front & Rear = 40wt (500cst)
Diff Oil: Front & Rear = 20K wt, Center = 60K wt
The only thing I would change at the top is the center diff to something from about 100K to maybe 150K max, depending on the surface.....
@CSL33 good info!
@@CSL33 cheers
Why the heck does this have optional 17mm hexes?
Probably just to give people options. You could put some buggy tires on it.
Idk why but I feel 3.8 buggy tires on this thing would be a way overkill. I could see Hoons for speed runs but not buggy tires. @@DoRC
The aluminium car has alloy drivetrain. And the CF has steel.
They're both steel the aluminum one just has sintered gears as opposed to machined ones.
@@DoRC I checked the sheets where it compares the parts. And aluminium has quality alloy. And the CF has cerium steel or something
@Sam-nz2zs The only difference in the drivetrain is that the aluminum version has sintered steel gears and the carbon fiber one has machined steel gears.
@@DoRC how much better is that then?
@Sam-nz2zs hard to tell. The machined gears are going to be stronger but the sintered gears haven't broken on me so not really sure if it's an advantage that's actually needed
If the price stays the same jn euro i will get it
I suspect the price will be pretty similar.
you need to start putting up links with everything you do. Your channel has some goo info but without links, it becomes a almost useless because it has no links
I don't normally do links because I don't want people to think I'm selling them anything or making money off of any of this because I'm not but I did go ahead and add a non-affiliate link to the description.
Normally though you can just Google whatever I'm reviewing and find it fairly easily.
What does links have to do with anything? I disagree strongly. He definitely links when necessary. But when he doesn't a 2 sec Google search will solve your problem.
@@cwatson42785 I can see how it would be nice to have the links though. It's probably become an expectation since pretty much everybody else on TH-cam is trying to sell things for that sweet sweet affiliate money.
@@DoRC I know right lol. Ain't that the truth!
Nothing of this scale can Beat Traxxas 1 /16 Mini E Revo Stock Brushless Valineon VXL Monstrosity
1/16 vs 1/11 are two different classes of cars. But I do keep my Erevo 1/16 with me at all times.
This has an almost 2 inch longer wheelbase and is quite a bit bigger than the 116th Traxxas cars. Also whereas those cars do have a lot of power for their size they are kind of fragile out of the box and very difficult to work on compared to modern designs like this one.
Another Arrma killer! Arrma step up your game you produce over priced entre levek junk!
Maybe though we'll have to see how it handles 4S and some serious bashing before drawing any conclusions :-)