I think the Fujica ST605 (I have 5 or 6 of them!) is a touch smaller. I see 132.9 x 89 x 50 mm for Petri MF-1, and 133 x 86 x 50 mm for the Fujica. Close call, and hard to be sure because it depends on who did the measuring.
Petri is perhaps the only japanese camera maker that went under due to their poor choice of cheap internal components. Stick with Pentax, Nikon and Canon for durability.
You mentioned it using lr44 batteries, although the manual mentions 675. Is the meter handling the lr44 ok or is the voltage difference affecting the exposure?
I have a Carena micro RSD and it seems its originally a Petri MF-1 rebranded as Carena. I cannot open the battery compartment though, the cover is stucked. Do you have any idea how can I open it? Would it be too risky to try to open the whole bottom plate?
Hi! I recently bought a Canonet QL 17 and I saw your video about it and learned a lot but I also found out from that video that my self timer lever is stuck therefore not allowing the shutters to fire. Is there any trick to releasing the self timer or is it doomed completely? I've read a few forums online about how hard it is to fix but I'd love your input on it. Thanks :)
Check his other videos, he's made quite a few of them on how to get shutters and self timers unstuck. The technique in those works on lots of cameras, and usually Japanese rangefinders come back to life by doing what he does when it's the self timer that's locking them up. You can either open up the lens so you can reach the self timer mechanism, remove it, and clean it, or you can take the easy route and put one or two drops of lighter fluid on the self timer lever and let it seep to the mechanism without taking anything at all apart. If you go with the latter, wait about 30 secs or so and veeeeery gently wiggle the lever. Don't apply any force whatsoever, the wiggling is just to help the lighter fluid reach the space between gears or between posts and housings.
There can be a few problems which make the self timer stick. First, the shutter blades may be stuck, if they don't move, the self timer won't work. To fix this, you need to remove the front or rear lens (the rear is easiest), and apply a drop of solvent to the shutter blades, which will unstick them, and allow the self timer to wind down. Second, the self timer itself may be stuck, a drop or two of solvent dribbled down the self timer lever may unstick it, or it may not. If not, you can force the timer with your thumb, or push it with a tool. This will break it, but if it doesn't work anyway, it's not a big deal. The last option is to have the camera taken apart and have the self timer repaired or replaced.
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I think the Fujica ST605 (I have 5 or 6 of them!) is a touch smaller. I see 132.9 x 89 x 50 mm for Petri MF-1, and 133 x 86 x 50 mm for the Fujica. Close call, and hard to be sure because it depends on who did the measuring.
Petri is perhaps the only japanese camera maker that went under due to their poor choice of cheap internal components. Stick with Pentax, Nikon and Canon for durability.
For the most part you are correct. The only really high quality Petri was the Color 35, which is my favorite sub-compact 35mm camera.
actually, you can open the aperture again on the Cosina CSR or Hi-Lite series aswell. Thats what that button next to the lens at the bottom is for.
You can also find these under the name, Petri SLR 35. Same camera, just a little different name.
Looks like a really nice camera!
Nice review. Thanks
Hello I just got the petri slr 35 and I want to know are you suppose to see out the viewfinder cause I don’t see anything
Thank you for your video!
Can this camera make double exposure by rewind bottom?
You mentioned it using lr44 batteries, although the manual mentions 675. Is the meter handling the lr44 ok or is the voltage difference affecting the exposure?
Doesn’t the LR44 1.5v battery cause the exposure meter to overshoot? (The mercury batteries are 1.3v.)
I have a Carena micro RSD and it seems its originally a Petri MF-1 rebranded as Carena. I cannot open the battery compartment though, the cover is stucked. Do you have any idea how can I open it? Would it be too risky to try to open the whole bottom plate?
What kind of frame coverage does this camera have?
Hi! I recently bought a Canonet QL 17 and I saw your video about it and learned a lot but I also found out from that video that my self timer lever is stuck therefore not allowing the shutters to fire. Is there any trick to releasing the self timer or is it doomed completely? I've read a few forums online about how hard it is to fix but I'd love your input on it. Thanks :)
Check his other videos, he's made quite a few of them on how to get shutters and self timers unstuck. The technique in those works on lots of cameras, and usually Japanese rangefinders come back to life by doing what he does when it's the self timer that's locking them up.
You can either open up the lens so you can reach the self timer mechanism, remove it, and clean it, or you can take the easy route and put one or two drops of lighter fluid on the self timer lever and let it seep to the mechanism without taking anything at all apart. If you go with the latter, wait about 30 secs or so and veeeeery gently wiggle the lever. Don't apply any force whatsoever, the wiggling is just to help the lighter fluid reach the space between gears or between posts and housings.
There can be a few problems which make the self timer stick. First, the shutter blades may be stuck, if they don't move, the self timer won't work. To fix this, you need to remove the front or rear lens (the rear is easiest), and apply a drop of solvent to the shutter blades, which will unstick them, and allow the self timer to wind down. Second, the self timer itself may be stuck, a drop or two of solvent dribbled down the self timer lever may unstick it, or it may not. If not, you can force the timer with your thumb, or push it with a tool. This will break it, but if it doesn't work anyway, it's not a big deal. The last option is to have the camera taken apart and have the self timer repaired or replaced.
Looks like it needs a clean.