You touched on material options. Are there guidelines or "rules of thumb" used to determine the dimensions and spacing of the various frame parts? I have what I think is a good design but don't want to over build it
Great question. Of course, a good place to start is with the government requirements for a trailer. The frame can be reinforced by the body to some extent too. Typically a 24" spacing between spars is enough for a trailer with a plywood or 1/2-3/4" composite floor.
The frame for a squaredrop is exactly the same. As far as the rear hatch. Those builds are pretty straight forward. Just down a ways from where the roof and the back wall meet is where most people mount their hurricane hinge (we have those parts in stock). Then the door essentially functions as a cut out of the back wall of the trailer. I hope that's what you were after. If not, hit me up again and I can give you more info.
In my project I had my frame built by a utility trailer manufacturer, based on my own drawings and to be built using aluminium: they did some changes on the design based on their long experience on the subject and choose themselves the size of the aluminium tubings and finally they issued a VIN certificate and the number welded on the frame.
Yes shortest design video ever let somone else do it. Done. Oh same for welding & painting. Oh just buy a trailer no thinking, learning or work involved.
@@OverlandTrailerI have been a Welder for over 30 years and part of that I worked for a while for a shop that built 1ton truck beds, and trailers. Some built to haul 80,000 lbs. All trailers have to meet federal DOT codes before they can be towed on the road (registered to get the tag. True it's best to let a professional at least design it and they inspect especially the welds before they'll give it a VIN. Just my experience in the USA. God bless and work safe.
Good info, but some things missed. What about axle weight capacity. Some axles can't handle 2000 lbs plus so a 3500 lb axle may be required, but how do you know how much your whole trailer will weigh if you haven't built it yet? Thus picking the right axle for the build. The foundation is the most important thing to consider as that is what's supporting the camper
Very good points. This video is focused on the frame (although axles do play into it). Which is why I have an axle video already half filmed. Actually, more than one! Also, as I mentioned, professional feedback can help you determine a range of weight for your build (especially the welder).
@@OverlandTrailer Oh good to know. I'm planning on a 6x10 trailer build and trying to work out the weight is hard. Even though I'm not going off road I'm going to use Trimbren with a 4 " drop. That way I can get the height down abit. Plus maybe mention that if one is to build a trailer in their garage the opening of most garages is 83" to the bottom the the door so if the height of the trailer is above that you may need to put smaller wheels on the trailer to get it out of the garage or put it on a sliding bed to clear the door height.
@@alandickson1629 I had to remove the axle from the frame to build the trailer in my garage, I put it on four snowmobile dollies for the time of the built, then pushed it outside when ready to install the axle.
Yep, I started my 77 x 144 inches travel trailer project on a 2000 lbs axle then once finished, I noticed that the wheels were slanted, like the old VW Beetles... I asked a cargo trailer specialist to come and inspect it then he stated that my travel trailer was too heavy, I switched for a 3500 lbs axle. After a while, I weighed the trailer at 2200 lbs with no baggage, food or booze. It is quite impossible to determine in advance what's gonna be the weight of a project.
@@charlevoix418 So my question is when building a trailer how does one determine what the weight in the end will be? I was going to build one 6x10 but my Rogue can only tow 1500'bs and from what I see alot of trailers out there are more than that. I guess I can determine the frame weight by the aluminum or steel being used but the rest abit tricky. The aluminum on the sides is a fixed number, but wood for walls insulation,and wood inside for beds or kitchenette unknown.
Great question Ellsworth. We don't coat the inside. In a tube system, there is a bit of oil on the inside from production and we seal all openings in the tube. It is much more likely to fail from the outside in than the other way around. With that said, some people will use spray foam, truck bed liners, and other spray in methods. The trick is sealing that system up as those tend to catch fire when welding up a cap on the end of a tube. Thanks for the question. A good one!
I am designing my own frame, my dad has an extra 65" torsion axel and fenders. My issue is that i have everything designed and am now pricing things out and realized that 60" is the widest they sell alluminum sheeting. So i am considering doing fiberglass and resin similar to doing a canoe. Do you think there would be an issue with expansion causing cracks?
Hi Craig, Good Question. My first teardrop was a fiberglass resin build. It did ok but required a lot of regular maintenance because of cracking. I eventually put metal over the entire trailer. Here's information on that build: www.overlandtrailer.com/learn-about-teardrop-trailers/free-teardrop-trailer-plans/teardrop-trailer-build-mistakes/ An alternative could be a few sheets of metal skin on the top and join them with a flat trim piece and butyl tape (we can help you with those parts). Another option would be to do the resin and then cover it, again, with a raptor liner or other truck bed liner that is more flexible.
Good question George! Most importantly, check with your local authorities for exact specs. Generally, they want a metal coupler, tongue, and axle that are all connected. For an ultra-light version, you could make a triangle of light steel that mounts to the axle and becomes the tongue of the trailer. Then go with the old school teardrop frame of a nice stout hardwood that is joined well. It's worth checking with your local government inspector to see if that would work. Ultimately, they have to approve it as safe for the road.
Interesting. It would be light. The biggest concerns would likely be fatigue with mounting points for the axle and trailer body, it's flexibility would make that worse. UV light will break it down and it will get brittle and fracture over time. It doesn't handle cold temps well without breaking either. I'm not sure that would pass inspection but it is worth asking your local authorities about it. Thanks for the question. I've never thought of that. I love the DIY community for the innovative ideas!
@@OverlandTrailer so I’m thinking, from the outside …light weight wood paneling, insulation, Pcv frame, insulation, then light weight wood inner walls. Of course the outside side walls will be done in fiberglass.
@@DowntimeArts Interesting. So more of a unibody idea? That does work. I have a friend who made campers with carbon fiber as the body/frame in a unibody style.
@@OverlandTrailer the biggest problem with building is that it might not be up to regulation spec and will be banned from the roads. Easier to buy an old boat trailer.
Build it Right, Build it Once. Love it!
THIS ☝☝☝
Loving the hoodie Mark! I know I keep saying this. But one of these days I will be reaching out to you. Life is just a bit busy at the moment.
Thanks for the sweatshirt and for catching up Drew. All the best!
Thanks for the shout out, Mark! Happy to help folks learn Fusion 360 for their DIY trailer journey :)
Thanks for being willing to help us all build more teardrop trailers!
The best DIY trailer video on TH-cam.
Thanks Nasi! Glad you enjyed it. More to come.
Awesome info. Thanks for sharing! Been thinking of grabbing some steel and building a custom trailer.
Glad I could help! Building your own frame is satisfying.
I'm about to embark on my first build and will be fabricating my own frame. Good timing.
Congrats! So glad you found this timely and helpful.
Well done. Great information.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching and for the feedback.
You touched on material options. Are there guidelines or "rules of thumb" used to determine the dimensions and spacing of the various frame parts? I have what I think is a good design but don't want to over build it
Great question. Of course, a good place to start is with the government requirements for a trailer. The frame can be reinforced by the body to some extent too. Typically a 24" spacing between spars is enough for a trailer with a plywood or 1/2-3/4" composite floor.
wow, Great video Thanks 🍻
Glad you found it helpful Squatch!
squaredrop...any tips for that? especially the rear hatch that opens up 90*, not to the side.
The frame for a squaredrop is exactly the same. As far as the rear hatch. Those builds are pretty straight forward. Just down a ways from where the roof and the back wall meet is where most people mount their hurricane hinge (we have those parts in stock). Then the door essentially functions as a cut out of the back wall of the trailer. I hope that's what you were after. If not, hit me up again and I can give you more info.
In my project I had my frame built by a utility trailer manufacturer, based on my own drawings and to be built using aluminium: they did some changes on the design based on their long experience on the subject and choose themselves the size of the aluminium tubings and finally they issued a VIN certificate and the number welded on the frame.
That's sweet! Let the pros figure it out AND they VIN? Win.
Do you have any plans or dimensions on the aluminum frame? I'm in the process of doing the same.
@@alandickson1629 Yes I have them, they are in french but they can be understood easily and I can answer questions about them if needed.
Yes shortest design video ever let somone else do it. Done. Oh same for welding & painting. Oh just buy a trailer no thinking, learning or work involved.
@@OverlandTrailerI have been a Welder for over 30 years and part of that I worked for a while for a shop that built 1ton truck beds, and trailers. Some built to haul 80,000 lbs. All trailers have to meet federal DOT codes before they can be towed on the road (registered to get the tag. True it's best to let a professional at least design it and they inspect especially the welds before they'll give it a VIN. Just my experience in the USA. God bless and work safe.
Good info, but some things missed. What about axle weight capacity. Some axles can't handle 2000 lbs plus so a 3500 lb axle may be required, but how do you know how much your whole trailer will weigh if you haven't built it yet? Thus picking the right axle for the build. The foundation is the most important thing to consider as that is what's supporting the camper
Very good points. This video is focused on the frame (although axles do play into it). Which is why I have an axle video already half filmed. Actually, more than one! Also, as I mentioned, professional feedback can help you determine a range of weight for your build (especially the welder).
@@OverlandTrailer Oh good to know. I'm planning on a 6x10 trailer build and trying to work out the weight is hard. Even though I'm not going off road I'm going to use Trimbren with a 4 " drop. That way I can get the height down abit. Plus maybe mention that if one is to build a trailer in their garage the opening of most garages is 83" to the bottom the the door so if the height of the trailer is above that you may need to put smaller wheels on the trailer to get it out of the garage or put it on a sliding bed to clear the door height.
@@alandickson1629 I had to remove the axle from the frame to build the trailer in my garage, I put it on four snowmobile dollies for the time of the built, then pushed it outside when ready to install the axle.
Yep, I started my 77 x 144 inches travel trailer project on a 2000 lbs axle then once finished, I noticed that the wheels were slanted, like the old VW Beetles... I asked a cargo trailer specialist to come and inspect it then he stated that my travel trailer was too heavy, I switched for a 3500 lbs axle. After a while, I weighed the trailer at 2200 lbs with no baggage, food or booze. It is quite impossible to determine in advance what's gonna be the weight of a project.
@@charlevoix418 So my question is when building a trailer how does one determine what the weight in the end will be? I was going to build one 6x10 but my Rogue can only tow 1500'bs and from what I see alot of trailers out there are more than that. I guess I can determine the frame weight by the aluminum or steel being used but the rest abit tricky. The aluminum on the sides is a fixed number, but wood for walls insulation,and wood inside for beds or kitchenette unknown.
Question, do you do any type of interior tubing coating to prevent rust/corrosion?
Great question Ellsworth. We don't coat the inside. In a tube system, there is a bit of oil on the inside from production and we seal all openings in the tube. It is much more likely to fail from the outside in than the other way around. With that said, some people will use spray foam, truck bed liners, and other spray in methods. The trick is sealing that system up as those tend to catch fire when welding up a cap on the end of a tube. Thanks for the question. A good one!
I am designing my own frame, my dad has an extra 65" torsion axel and fenders. My issue is that i have everything designed and am now pricing things out and realized that 60" is the widest they sell alluminum sheeting. So i am considering doing fiberglass and resin similar to doing a canoe. Do you think there would be an issue with expansion causing cracks?
Hi Craig,
Good Question. My first teardrop was a fiberglass resin build. It did ok but required a lot of regular maintenance because of cracking. I eventually put metal over the entire trailer. Here's information on that build: www.overlandtrailer.com/learn-about-teardrop-trailers/free-teardrop-trailer-plans/teardrop-trailer-build-mistakes/
An alternative could be a few sheets of metal skin on the top and join them with a flat trim piece and butyl tape (we can help you with those parts). Another option would be to do the resin and then cover it, again, with a raptor liner or other truck bed liner that is more flexible.
Mind turning auto captions on for your videos like this one? Some of us cant hear and would like to enjoy your content.
Hi Eric! Thanks for the suggestion. Done! Enjoy the video.
Please can recommend a person who can make a model of travel RV so I can communicate directly with
Hi @TipTop540. Thanks for reaching out. I'm a little unclear on what you're asking. We don't manufacture trailers. We help people make their own!
What if I want to build the frame out of wood? The only metal I really need are hitch wheels and axel. I plan to pull it behind a motorcycle.
Good question George! Most importantly, check with your local authorities for exact specs. Generally, they want a metal coupler, tongue, and axle that are all connected. For an ultra-light version, you could make a triangle of light steel that mounts to the axle and becomes the tongue of the trailer. Then go with the old school teardrop frame of a nice stout hardwood that is joined well. It's worth checking with your local government inspector to see if that would work. Ultimately, they have to approve it as safe for the road.
Read More about Designing a Teardrop Frame:
www.overlandtrailer.com/how-to-design-a-diy-teardrop-trailer-frame/
What do you think about a frame made from PVC pipes?
Interesting. It would be light. The biggest concerns would likely be fatigue with mounting points for the axle and trailer body, it's flexibility would make that worse. UV light will break it down and it will get brittle and fracture over time. It doesn't handle cold temps well without breaking either. I'm not sure that would pass inspection but it is worth asking your local authorities about it. Thanks for the question. I've never thought of that. I love the DIY community for the innovative ideas!
@@OverlandTrailer so I’m thinking, from the outside …light weight wood paneling, insulation, Pcv frame, insulation, then light weight wood inner walls. Of course the outside side walls will be done in fiberglass.
@@DowntimeArts Interesting. So more of a unibody idea? That does work. I have a friend who made campers with carbon fiber as the body/frame in a unibody style.
Much easier and cheaper to buy and modify a second hand trailer...............
You choose Option 1! There is a lot to be said about that way of doing it...if it's done right. Thanks for watching!
@@OverlandTrailer the biggest problem with building is that it might not be up to regulation spec and will be banned from the roads. Easier to buy an old boat trailer.