I'm really enjoying your Mechanics Log series. I like the format. Your thoughtfulness and meticulous research, plus your patient determination really pays off. Well done, and keep it up!
Engines will run hotter and backfire when running to lean don’t forget that fuel is also a upper cylinder lubricant running richer should help with the problems also put a restricter in the vacuum line on the wiper side of the vacuum tank to regulate the speed of the wiper a small piece of brass with a small hole drilled in it will do the job
Hi Adrian , about to regulate the speed on the wipers the solution with the hose is great, in carburated Renault cars there is a hose from the intake to the cuba of the carburator to suck all the fuel vapors and burn them, inside is a 1.5 mm restrictor to prevent too much vacum and hence loss of adjusting of the carburator, maybe something like that would do the trick to guarantee always the same amount of vacum. It was very nice to see the road trip and specially the Borgward part, you see, I happen to live in Monterrey Mexico, the city where was the plant here in Mexico , they only assembled the P100, here known as the 230,230L and 230gl, the 230l were only 7 made and is a longer made limousine , I have worked in one , that belongs to the father of a friend, it was sent to a shop to be restored a few years ago , and I was asked to install the engine again, check all the brakes, and make it run again. They also have a regular one but it is not working because the crankshaft is very bad and it can't be welded and machined again, so, until another one appears or an entire engine it will be that way! The Borgward limousine is a 1968 and the regular one is a 1970, they were in production from 1967 to 1970 and there were still new ones without being sold until 1974.. I love the way they drive, just like my 1963 Mercedes Benz 220s
The scoring isn't the worst I've seen. My worthless opinion- You are running too lean and with not enough ignition advance. You could still have a vacuum leak somewhere. Do you have access to a vacuum gauge? If you set the timing to that with the spark lever all the way up, it is firing at -4 to -8 (after TDC), then with the spark lever all the way down, you end up with around 36 degrees of advance. With a stock head, you won't narf the bearings. The debris in your filter is normal. Just drive it! Your engine is pretty healthy.
Also, 10-40 is too thick. You should be running a 5W-30 or straight 30 right now. And it would be wise to add a little Marvel Mystery Oil (naphtha) or 2-stroke oil to your fuel.
Next time I check ignition, I'll set it up in the way you (and Ford) recommended - I don't know how the insert manufacturers came up with 29° as the end of the world... Maybe for the kind of driver that sets ignition to full advance once the engine runs and just leaves it there all day? And: By all means, your opinion is NOT worthless!
@@ModelA Honestly, even after 3 years of owning the car, this topic still irritates me... Even here in the comment section, people tell me to use thicker oil - equally as many say the oil I use is too thick. I guess it's best if I just use no oil at all ;P I added a cup of 2-stroke oil to every tank of gas since the engine was rebuilt.
@@AstraWerke According to the web forum "experts" (haters), my opinion is less than worthless. 28 degrees advance IS the end of the world when you're running a high performance head, etc. If you're all stock, then about 36 degrees if the end of the world. My coupe seems really happy about 2 clicks from full advance on the highway. That's about 32 degrees. But mine is all stock. The more compression you have, the pickier the timing gets.
@@AstraWerke The people telling you to run thicker dinosaur juice clearly have no examined the internal oil passages to the main bearings in a Model A motor. They read something on Fordbarn and just repeat it. 40 wt. oil existed when it was new, so why did Ford insist on 30 wt.? Think about it. You may not be getting enough splash onto the cylinder walls.
As for tire wear, I found that the Firestones that I first ran on my 31 Tudor gave me fewer miles than my next set of Goodyears. And the Goodyears fit better in the fender wells.
The Firestones are rather soft, I agree. Then again, that should mean they have more grip. What irritated me was that the frot tires wore down so significantly while the rears stayed practically mint - with the driving power to the rear wheels, I would have expected just the opposite! Well, that extreme amount of toe-in probably explains alot.
Well the small amount of metal in the oil is expected with a fresh rebuild the rings will wear a little as they seat in the cylinders a long with the cylinders but what I saw was well within reason
I know you're afraid to switch to a slightly thicker oil at the moment, but do keep that in mind for a later time when you feel comfortable to do it, it might help.
A Schrader valve would work great as a one way valve for a vacuum tank. That is what is allowing a compression tester to hold pressure. It also hides the valve within one of the tubes.
Dear Adrian...faultless editing and music as always... you are a pro at that.... please don't lose heart ..nothing in vintage terms is perfect and you have had a rough ride with getting that engine done.... 'the book of truth'...... wow.....😏dont be so hard on yourself....
Bet that was a fun drive in the rain with bald tires. Running lean would cause high temperatures and may lead to the scoring you saw. Don’t know how you managed to do it with that air filter. I agree that opening the GAV more would help, and would probably reduce your backfiring. BTW, I’d not use an air filter. It’s a fire hazard if fuel drips into it.
Luckily, I had cut the profile before the rain drive - I'm pretty sure that saved me in a few instances. The filter I use is just a wire netting, so it won't get soaked with fuel.
Greetings from Idaho, USA. Regarding your carburetor, did you end up air balancing it? You are running an "air maze", not really an air filter, as it is just wire mesh and only good for big rocks, birds, moths, etc. and has essentially no restriction, unless you get it caked with grease, dirt, etc. I run a hiboy K&N air filter on my Zenith, which can have some D/P across it, so I airbalanced my Zenith per Dave Renners instructions and it runs marvelously! It was an easy modification which you could do in about a half an hour. Thanks for your videos! They are instructive and entertaining!
Keep the car Adrian. But like you say - and others do too - you have a too lean mix to the engine. That needs to be addressed, and if it’s not the carb there is an intake leak - or a combination of the two. Old engines need quite some fuel also for the cooling of the cylinders like someone else added. So, test for intake leaks - not with start gas but with a method where you can actually find it. I myself use air and soapy water on motorcycles. Float level is also important to have a carb that performs, avoid brass floats since they are often too heavy. The cylinder walls are fine, no problem there. When you have the mixture right and it runs ok, open up a little bit more fuel and you’re safe - gets a little bit more power too. And to sleep well at night, add some 2T oil to the gas. It also makes them happy. ☺️ Last but not least: what oil do you use, and what was recommended from factory? Recommending something here would be like walking into a mine field - but I think heavier oil and even single grade can be used? Again, keep on the good work for us to enjoy your fantastic videos! 👍⚓️
The "too lean"-issue can simply be addressed by opening the adjustment knob a little more. Apparently, there is quite a large transition area between optimal mixture and the engine starting to perform badly due to too lean a mix. I use 10w40, Ford recommended SAE30, then later changed that to sae40 in summer and sae20 in winter. Since the engine isn't pressure-oiled, I don't want to risk starving it of oil by using heavier oil - and by using multi-grade, I hope to counteract the issues with single grade oil: Thick as honey when cold, thin as water when hot. I've checked the float level in the last video - and since the carb was designed to work with a brass float (and since you can't get anything else for it) I reckon it should work with one.
Adrian, For your own peace of mind, I would suggest pulling the head and inspecting the cylinder bores. It only takes a few minutes. I’ve spent many hours peering through a boroscope inspecting turbine engine internals. Accurately interpreting an image when one is evaluating tiny scratches, tiny stress risers, etc. comes through much experience and knowing one’s optic. Those scratches which appear alarming may well be normal to the naked eye. The engine is running excessively lean evidenced by both the sound on deceleration , plug readings, and by combustion chamber color. Your work has confirmed that there are no vacuum leaks. This leaves the carburetor. The adjustment knob does control mixture but this is the equivalent of an adjustable main jet. The idle and transition circuits are also contributing to the engine’s needs. When you release or let up on the throttle in slowing the car; I’m hearing these circuits not doing their job properly. This is not unknown with the Zenith and can be very frustrating. Paul has a video dealing with Zenith idiosyncrasies. The video was shot with Bob, his dad who has a lifetime experience as an A mechanic. If it comes to it, I have a known good Zenith which I will send you. Good luck
@@myrlstone8904 I'll just leave it the way it is. If I pull the head and then find out it's bad, what am I going to do? The engine has cost me enough the way it is, so I'll now drive it until the wheels fall off it. Last thing I can check with the carb is the flow rate of the jets, but I'll have to build a testing jig first.
I use Amsoil 100% Synthetic Z-Rod 20w50. My A’s engine was built about 50 years ago and runs like a top. Ford recommended 30w and that’s about what 20w50 averages out to. I know some are going to say that’s too thick but works for me and if I ever rebuild I will reevaluate.
I don't doubt your engine does well with the oil you use, but I've run both SAE30 and 20w50 - and believe you me, they are two very differently behaving oils.
I use a "Gunsons Colortune" to adjust the fuel mixture, I don't know if you can buy these in Germany, but they are basically a spark plug with a viewing hole so you can see what colour the mixture is igniting at, adjusting the air mix to give a "bunsen burner blue", without orange or white flashes. A better fuel mix should reduce the running temperature and if the wear marks on the bore are the result of too much heat, then this will help too. The engine will wear as it "runs in" and as you say, most people will never see inside their engine so have no idea, a case of perhaps too information? It would not bother me unduly and given the increasing restrictions we are all facing on driving fossil fuel powered vehicles, I suspect that engines will not be able to do the mileages that they were designed to do before we are told to stop. Thanks for sharing and like the product review, will see if this is available in UK to buy!
Well, looking at the plugs and judging engine performance is probably going to work out for me - no need for fancy equipment. It's a case of too much information most certainly - had I not had the endoscope, I'd just assume the engine was in great shape and not worried any. I think I need to do more of that.
Great video as always. Can you borrow a carburetor from someone? I had one that ran terrible and I checked everything, seemed fine. For laughs I through in new jets, fixed it, and I don't know what I really did. I hate that. I found a few with cracks, and they are hard to locate. I am not a fan of those plugs you use. They're really for a tractor. I run 3x, but have used the NGK plugs with the adapters in customers cars with good results. I think your engine is fine and will run a long time. It will all work out.
Carbs are rare to come by over here, so sadly thats not an option. Alas, the picture of the plugs just tells me that enrichening the mixture somewhat is all I need to do to fix my issues. Haven't had troubles with these plugs, so I'll just leave them in.
Hi Astra, I talked to an old Model A guru of mine and told him about your issues. His first thought , and he's pretty sharp , was how is your exhaust system? He's had issues over the years with some causing too much back pressure. I'm going to Hershey in Oct, would you like me find you a carb? I have some too. I'd be glad to mail it to you. I know old cars can get frustrating, but they're worth it. Mine drove me nuts for a long time, but now it's right. Be well, Brian
@@brianmatthews9697I have one of them cheap repro mufflers, and judging by the noise it makes, there isn't much inside it that could restrict flow xD Regarding carbs, I still want to try flow-testing the jets and see if that makes a difference. If all that fails, I'll gladly come back to your offer!
Agree that earlier ignition should lower the temperature a bit and that there is no absolute limit. It is load dependent and one can hear it on the engine. A richer mixture of course also lowers temperature. So does RVS, did you ever look into that?
@@AstraWerke Ah thought you knew, this is their summary video th-cam.com/video/gSdZHt0K_h8/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=RVSTechnologyUSALLC I have not used it with my A, because its not ready yet, but I know two who have restored compression with it. I also think it has helped my BMW R100 2-wheeler, but that engine is like new. The more wear the more effect.
Dear @@biondanishgenomeinstitute8193 Sounds almost too good to be true. But of course ceramic nano tech coating for car paint (for instance), is already working extremely well. Best regards, luck and health in particular.
so if you want to know what the air fuel mixer is . so your not running to lean or to rich . why not discretely install an O2 sensor with a gauge so you can see what's going on . air planes do the same with exhaust temp gauge
not only that but motors are cheaper . just kidding about that but i would still want to know what,s going on real time and not after the fact maybe a sniffer it the tail pipe tell you get it dialed in . @@Hjerte_Verke
Molly is a good thing for sure. Also please look up tuning an older engine. Have you thought about picking up a carb cheater device? Bring the old A into the 21st century for tuning.
I think step one is to get the stuff I have to run properly before buying some magic device that ought to improve everything. I wouldn't throw a high-compression head onto an engine that performs badly either.
@@Engineerd3d Looks alot to me like an electrolically controlled air valve. My car is already running too lean, so adding even more air probably won't help any
@@AstraWerke I was thinking about the snap crackle and pop you are experiencing, it is due to lean conditions and that is called pinging. Tune it by ear. Also the electronically controlled air valve is correct, however it is also giving you data logging ability via 02 sensor.
Not going to lie-it made me a bit uncomfortable to see you taking even more rubber off of those poor tires, but hopefully it will get you a tread that will work, at least for a little while. Pretty neat solution for the vacuum tank and wipers. The one way valve will make a good addition. "Just" a Model A Ford after all? Shame on you! 😉
Well, I didn't make the tread any deeper than the deeper parts of the original profile - as long as I don't cut into the wire webbing, I'm not worried. Well, if there's an engine out there that won't care what condition it is in, it's certainly the Model A's xD
S.g. Vorsitzender der Astra Werke. 😁 ;-) 👍👌👏 Uuuund wieder ein tolles Video, zusätzlich mit vielen Informationen und wirklich guter Musik. Gratulation 🎉 2) In sehr vielen Videos sehe ich Oldtimer Besitzer Shell Rotella Motoröl für Dieselmotoren in ihre alten Diesel- UND Benzinmotoren füllen. Dies Produkt hat wohl sehr viele gute Additive und eignet sich nicht nur für Maschinen mit hohen Kilometerleistungen. Ist vielleicht in entsprechender Spezifikation auch für ihr Model A nutzbar? 2a) Das von ihnen zu einem anderen Kommentar erwähnte 10W40 halte ich für deutlich zu dünn um in solch einer alten Motorenkonstruktion gut zu funktionieren respektive den notwendigen Schmierfilm aufrecht zu erhalten. Z.B. selbst für meine damaligen 1970/1980er Mercedes Vorkammer Dieselmotoren war werkseitig noch 20W50 für Sommerbetrieb und 15W40 für Winterbetrieb empfohlen. 3) Ich gehe natürlich konform mit ihnen, dass zu mageres Gemisch die Fehlzündungen und vor allem auch die Überhitzungsprobleme verursacht hat. 4) In meiner Jugend hatten wir 3 große Daimler Benz Tanklastzüge. Es war gang und gäbe die Reifen mindestens einmal nachzuschneiden. Dafür gab es spezielle, handgeführte Maschinen welche die Klingen erhitzt haben. Es gab verschieden profilierte Schneidklingen, diese außerdem in unterschiedlichen Höhen. Ich wünsche ihnen viiiiiel Glück und weniger Frust mit ihrem frisch überholten Motor und warte auf ein neues, spannendes Video. Vielen Dank für's Herstellen Erklären Filmen Editieren Uploaden und Teilen. Viele Grüße, Glück und Gesundheit für/an alle Beteiligten.
Vielen Dank. Die Diskussion ums richtige Öl ist natürlich ein Riesenthema und häufig auch Glaubensfrage; mein Kenntnisstand ist: Je höher die Temperatur, desto zäheres Öl sollte man fahren. Je enger die Lagerluft, desto dünneres Öl sollte man fahren. Höhere Leistung -> zäheres Öl Drucklose Schmierung -> Dünneres Öl Hohe Geschwindigkeiten -> Dünneres Öl. Ford hat seinerzeit SAE30 empfohlen, später dann SAE40 im Sommer und 20 im Winter. Mit 10w40 versuche ich, ihm sowohl im kalten Zustand ein dünnflüssiges (10), und im warmen ein immer noch recht zähes (40) Öl zu bieten. 20w50 nehmen viele für ihren Oldtimer, ich halte das nur dann ratsam, wenn der Motor schon einige zehntausend Kilometer runter hat - insbesondere bei der Schleuderschmierung befürchte ich, dass so zähe Suppe sonst nicht überall hin kommt. Ich fahre den Wagen ja doch häufiger mal recht zügig. Wahrscheinlich ist es dem Motor egal - das Öl der 30er Jahre war im kalten Zustand zäh wie Honig und bei Betriebstemperatur dünn wie Wasser... Die Motoren haben's trotzdem überlebt. Von Seiten Paul Shinn hab ich sogar 5w30 empfohlen gekriegt - alles andere würde laut ihm auf Dauer zu Lagerschäden führen... Man fragt 3 Leute und kriegt 5 Antworten.
Dein pischen was du hast ist magerpitschen flatheads mögen es fett und als ölstabi würde ich das von lucas nehmen ich fahre das auf opel cih ford v4 und sämtlichen motorrädern
I use 10w40 with added zddp. I'm hesitant to use thicker stuff - the clearances are rather tight and with no pressure oil feed, thick oil might not get everywhere, especially at higher speeds.
@@AstraWerkeHola soy de Argentina tengo varios A, los primeros 6milk los uso muy despacio y tramos cortos para asentarlos, tengo casi 52 años y arme el primer motor de mi A,cuando tenia 14 años,tengo miles de km recorridos,no les pongo aceite multigrado,le pongo Helix monogrado s.a.e 40, con los multigrado terminan golpeando si le das uso intensivo,y cuando están más acentados después de los 10 mil km,si les pongo molikote. Los armó con babitt,acá cojinetes desmontables no duran si le das uso intensivo, La tos del carburador puede estar tapado algún conducto del cuerpo saludos.
I felt concerned when, in an earlier video, you referred to more “conservative” timing. From what I’ve read it appears that there is an optimum timing range based on RPM and load, and engine temperature can be too high from either too retarded or too advanced timing. Many years ago I read an account of riding an old Harley Davidson motorcycle with manual spark control. The fellow forgot to advance it after starting and was riding several hours at highway speed. He then noticed the exhaust header was glowing bright red! From this I always remembered that too retarded a spark setting generates excessive heat. It was fascinating to see inside the engine, particularly the underside of the pistons. As for oil (oh boy, everyone is an expert) I concur that our Model A engines can tolerate a wide range of oil specifications. I’ve used a variety, including 5W-30. Currently trying a “racing” oil that has much higher levels of zinc than normal. I considered using a zinc additive but read that there are many different formulations and the particular zinc must be compatible with the oil’s composition or it will do nothing. The article was authored by a petrochemical engineer. He made the point that a consumer cannot accurately predict which additive will work, so just buy the oil already formulated for the issue you want to address. As sane as that sounds, I add Marvel Mystery Oil to each tank of gas. Why? I don’t know, it’s a mystery to me.
Well, I tried doing everything right by following manufacturer instructions. May not have been right after all. I hope the MoS2 will serve the same purpose as ZDDP would. I did run Zinc oil before the engine overhaul, and mistakingly thought a fresh engine wouldn't need it.
Diese Spuren sehen auf der Kamera viel schlimmer aus als wenn man den Kopf runter nimmt habe ich selber letztens nämlich extra deswegen gemacht und im Endeffekt geht der Kreuzschliff durch diese riefen immer noch durch und die Riefen haben keine Tiefe die kann man mit dem Fingernagel überhaupt nicht spüren. Mach dir keine Sorgen darüber...
Must say you are a FANTASTIC asset to the Model A community. Thanks so much for your videos.
More great information supplied by a very creative and talanted individual.
You make GREAT VIDEOS!!! I so enjoy them. I too am a daily 1930 Ford Model A driver in Southern California. GREAT JOB!!
I'm really enjoying your Mechanics Log series. I like the format. Your thoughtfulness and meticulous research, plus your patient determination really pays off. Well done, and keep it up!
Engines will run hotter and backfire when running to lean don’t forget that fuel is also a upper cylinder lubricant running richer should help with the problems also put a restricter in the vacuum line on the wiper side of the vacuum tank to regulate the speed of the wiper a small piece of brass with a small hole drilled in it will do the job
Hi Adrian , about to regulate the speed on the wipers the solution with the hose is great, in carburated Renault cars there is a hose from the intake to the cuba of the carburator to suck all the fuel vapors and burn them, inside is a 1.5 mm restrictor to prevent too much vacum and hence loss of adjusting of the carburator, maybe something like that would do the trick to guarantee always the same amount of vacum.
It was very nice to see the road trip and specially the Borgward part, you see, I happen to live in Monterrey Mexico, the city where was the plant here in Mexico , they only assembled the P100, here known as the 230,230L and 230gl, the 230l were only 7 made and is a longer made limousine , I have worked in one , that belongs to the father of a friend, it was sent to a shop to be restored a few years ago , and I was asked to install the engine again, check all the brakes, and make it run again. They also have a regular one but it is not working because the crankshaft is very bad and it can't be welded and machined again, so, until another one appears or an entire engine it will be that way! The Borgward limousine is a 1968 and the regular one is a 1970, they were in production from 1967 to 1970 and there were still new ones without being sold until 1974.. I love the way they drive, just like my 1963 Mercedes Benz 220s
I have a radio just like the one in the background at 13:11. Beautiful car, and cool radio!
The scoring isn't the worst I've seen. My worthless opinion- You are running too lean and with not enough ignition advance. You could still have a vacuum leak somewhere. Do you have access to a vacuum gauge? If you set the timing to that with the spark lever all the way up, it is firing at -4 to -8 (after TDC), then with the spark lever all the way down, you end up with around 36 degrees of advance. With a stock head, you won't narf the bearings. The debris in your filter is normal. Just drive it! Your engine is pretty healthy.
Also, 10-40 is too thick. You should be running a 5W-30 or straight 30 right now. And it would be wise to add a little Marvel Mystery Oil (naphtha) or 2-stroke oil to your fuel.
Next time I check ignition, I'll set it up in the way you (and Ford) recommended - I don't know how the insert manufacturers came up with 29° as the end of the world... Maybe for the kind of driver that sets ignition to full advance once the engine runs and just leaves it there all day?
And: By all means, your opinion is NOT worthless!
@@ModelA Honestly, even after 3 years of owning the car, this topic still irritates me... Even here in the comment section, people tell me to use thicker oil - equally as many say the oil I use is too thick.
I guess it's best if I just use no oil at all ;P
I added a cup of 2-stroke oil to every tank of gas since the engine was rebuilt.
@@AstraWerke According to the web forum "experts" (haters), my opinion is less than worthless. 28 degrees advance IS the end of the world when you're running a high performance head, etc. If you're all stock, then about 36 degrees if the end of the world. My coupe seems really happy about 2 clicks from full advance on the highway. That's about 32 degrees. But mine is all stock. The more compression you have, the pickier the timing gets.
@@AstraWerke The people telling you to run thicker dinosaur juice clearly have no examined the internal oil passages to the main bearings in a Model A motor. They read something on Fordbarn and just repeat it. 40 wt. oil existed when it was new, so why did Ford insist on 30 wt.? Think about it. You may not be getting enough splash onto the cylinder walls.
Great content Adrian !!! Thanks for the insight and I have to get one of those VEVOR Cameras.
As for tire wear, I found that the Firestones that I first ran on my 31 Tudor gave me fewer miles than my next set of Goodyears. And the Goodyears fit better in the fender wells.
The Firestones are rather soft, I agree.
Then again, that should mean they have more grip.
What irritated me was that the frot tires wore down so significantly while the rears stayed practically mint - with the driving power to the rear wheels, I would have expected just the opposite!
Well, that extreme amount of toe-in probably explains alot.
Well the small amount of metal in the oil is expected with a fresh rebuild the rings will wear a little as they seat in the cylinders a long with the cylinders but what I saw was well within reason
I know you're afraid to switch to a slightly thicker oil at the moment, but do keep that in mind for a later time when you feel comfortable to do it, it might help.
So much fun!!
Starting up in the parking garage was a brilliant move for some video.
Aus Diesen Innenteilen vom Ölfilter also das aufgerollte Lochblech kann man gut Schalldämpfer selber bauen durchgangsdämpfer
A Schrader valve would work great as a one way valve for a vacuum tank. That is what is allowing a compression tester to hold pressure. It also hides the valve within one of the tubes.
Dear Adrian...faultless editing and music as always... you are a pro at that.... please don't lose heart ..nothing in vintage terms is perfect and you have had a rough ride with getting that engine done.... 'the book of truth'...... wow.....😏dont be so hard on yourself....
Bet that was a fun drive in the rain with bald tires.
Running lean would cause high temperatures and may lead to the scoring you saw. Don’t know how you managed to do it with that air filter. I agree that opening the GAV more would help, and would probably reduce your backfiring. BTW, I’d not use an air filter. It’s a fire hazard if fuel drips into it.
Luckily, I had cut the profile before the rain drive - I'm pretty sure that saved me in a few instances.
The filter I use is just a wire netting, so it won't get soaked with fuel.
My daly drive model a i run it wit 10w-30 hi zinc racing oil
Greetings from Idaho, USA. Regarding your carburetor, did you end up air balancing it? You are running an "air maze", not really an air filter, as it is just wire mesh and only good for big rocks, birds, moths, etc. and has essentially no restriction, unless you get it caked with grease, dirt, etc. I run a hiboy K&N air filter on my Zenith, which can have some D/P across it, so I airbalanced my Zenith per Dave Renners instructions and it runs marvelously! It was an easy modification which you could do in about a half an hour. Thanks for your videos! They are instructive and entertaining!
Maybe an oil with added zinc is in order? Problem is, old oil is just nothing like the new oil being sold today. Glad to see you like Cold War Motors.
I reckon the MoS2 will have similar effects to a Zinc additive
Keep the car Adrian. But like you say - and others do too - you have a too lean mix to the engine. That needs to be addressed, and if it’s not the carb there is an intake leak - or a combination of the two. Old engines need quite some fuel also for the cooling of the cylinders like someone else added. So, test for intake leaks - not with start gas but with a method where you can actually find it. I myself use air and soapy water on motorcycles.
Float level is also important to have a carb that performs, avoid brass floats since they are often too heavy.
The cylinder walls are fine, no problem there.
When you have the mixture right and it runs ok, open up a little bit more fuel and you’re safe - gets a little bit more power too. And to sleep well at night, add some 2T oil to the gas. It also makes them happy. ☺️
Last but not least: what oil do you use, and what was recommended from factory? Recommending something here would be like walking into a mine field - but I think heavier oil and even single grade can be used?
Again, keep on the good work for us to enjoy your fantastic videos! 👍⚓️
The "too lean"-issue can simply be addressed by opening the adjustment knob a little more. Apparently, there is quite a large transition area between optimal mixture and the engine starting to perform badly due to too lean a mix.
I use 10w40, Ford recommended SAE30, then later changed that to sae40 in summer and sae20 in winter.
Since the engine isn't pressure-oiled, I don't want to risk starving it of oil by using heavier oil - and by using multi-grade, I hope to counteract the issues with single grade oil: Thick as honey when cold, thin as water when hot.
I've checked the float level in the last video - and since the carb was designed to work with a brass float (and since you can't get anything else for it) I reckon it should work with one.
Adrian, For your own peace of mind, I would suggest pulling the head and inspecting the cylinder bores. It only takes a few minutes. I’ve spent many hours peering through a boroscope inspecting turbine engine internals. Accurately interpreting an image when one is evaluating tiny scratches, tiny stress risers, etc. comes through much experience and knowing one’s optic. Those scratches which appear alarming may well be normal to the naked eye.
The engine is running excessively lean evidenced by both the sound on deceleration , plug readings, and by combustion chamber color. Your work has confirmed that there are no vacuum leaks. This leaves the carburetor. The adjustment knob does control mixture but this is the equivalent of an adjustable main jet. The idle and transition circuits are also contributing to the engine’s needs. When you release or let up on the throttle in slowing the car; I’m hearing these circuits not doing their job properly. This is not unknown with the Zenith and can be very frustrating. Paul has a video dealing with Zenith idiosyncrasies. The video was shot with Bob, his dad who has a lifetime experience as an A mechanic. If it comes to it, I have a known good Zenith which I will send you.
Good luck
@@myrlstone8904 I'll just leave it the way it is. If I pull the head and then find out it's bad, what am I going to do?
The engine has cost me enough the way it is, so I'll now drive it until the wheels fall off it.
Last thing I can check with the carb is the flow rate of the jets, but I'll have to build a testing jig first.
I use Amsoil 100% Synthetic Z-Rod 20w50. My A’s engine was built about 50 years ago and runs like a top. Ford recommended 30w and that’s about what 20w50 averages out to. I know some are going to say that’s too thick but works for me and if I ever rebuild I will reevaluate.
I don't doubt your engine does well with the oil you use, but I've run both SAE30 and 20w50 - and believe you me, they are two very differently behaving oils.
Love the CWM insert. 😂
Dude's a legend :)
Do you think possibly some of the metal fragments that you're finding is from the machining process? When it was rebuilt?
Initially, sure, but still after over two thousand miles?
@AstraWerke I did also find some Minute Metal particles for a while After I had insert bearings, put in mine about three oil changes
I use a "Gunsons Colortune" to adjust the fuel mixture, I don't know if you can buy these in Germany, but they are basically a spark plug with a viewing hole so you can see what colour the mixture is igniting at, adjusting the air mix to give a "bunsen burner blue", without orange or white flashes.
A better fuel mix should reduce the running temperature and if the wear marks on the bore are the result of too much heat, then this will help too.
The engine will wear as it "runs in" and as you say, most people will never see inside their engine so have no idea, a case of perhaps too information?
It would not bother me unduly and given the increasing restrictions we are all facing on driving fossil fuel powered vehicles, I suspect that engines will not be able to do the mileages that they were designed to do before we are told to stop.
Thanks for sharing and like the product review, will see if this is available in UK to buy!
Well, looking at the plugs and judging engine performance is probably going to work out for me - no need for fancy equipment.
It's a case of too much information most certainly - had I not had the endoscope, I'd just assume the engine was in great shape and not worried any.
I think I need to do more of that.
@@AstraWerke I agree. Your assessment of the too-lean condition of your fuel mixture seems entirely correct; these parts do not lie
Great video as always. Can you borrow a carburetor from someone? I had one that ran terrible and I checked everything, seemed fine. For laughs I through in new jets, fixed it, and I don't know what I really did. I hate that. I found a few with cracks, and they are hard to locate. I am not a fan of those plugs you use. They're really for a tractor. I run 3x, but have used the NGK plugs with the adapters in customers cars with good results. I think your engine is fine and will run a long time. It will all work out.
Carbs are rare to come by over here, so sadly thats not an option.
Alas, the picture of the plugs just tells me that enrichening the mixture somewhat is all I need to do to fix my issues.
Haven't had troubles with these plugs, so I'll just leave them in.
Hi Astra, I talked to an old Model A guru of mine and told him about your issues. His first thought , and he's pretty sharp , was how is your exhaust system? He's had issues over the years with some causing too much back pressure. I'm going to Hershey in Oct, would you like me find you a carb? I have some too. I'd be glad to mail it to you. I know old cars can get frustrating, but they're worth it. Mine drove me nuts for a long time, but now it's right. Be well, Brian
@@brianmatthews9697I have one of them cheap repro mufflers, and judging by the noise it makes, there isn't much inside it that could restrict flow xD
Regarding carbs, I still want to try flow-testing the jets and see if that makes a difference. If all that fails, I'll gladly come back to your offer!
Sounds good, Let me know how you make out. I always keep an eye out for your videos. @@AstraWerke
Agree that earlier ignition should lower the temperature a bit and that there is no absolute limit. It is load dependent and one can hear it on the engine. A richer mixture of course also lowers temperature. So does RVS, did you ever look into that?
Never heard of RVS - what is it?
@@AstraWerke Ah thought you knew, this is their summary video th-cam.com/video/gSdZHt0K_h8/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=RVSTechnologyUSALLC I have not used it with my A, because its not ready yet, but I know two who have restored compression with it. I also think it has helped my BMW R100 2-wheeler, but that engine is like new. The more wear the more effect.
Dear @@biondanishgenomeinstitute8193
Sounds almost too good to be true. But of course ceramic nano tech coating for car paint (for instance), is already working extremely well.
Best regards, luck and health in particular.
so if you want to know what the air fuel mixer is . so your not running to lean or to rich . why not discretely install an O2 sensor with a gauge so you can see what's going on . air planes do the same with exhaust temp gauge
No way, it would ruin the aesthetic. Besides, reading spark plugs is an exact science
not only that but motors are cheaper . just kidding about that but i would still want to know what,s going on real time and not after the fact maybe a sniffer it the tail pipe tell you get it dialed in . @@Hjerte_Verke
Molly is a good thing for sure. Also please look up tuning an older engine. Have you thought about picking up a carb cheater device? Bring the old A into the 21st century for tuning.
I think step one is to get the stuff I have to run properly before buying some magic device that ought to improve everything.
I wouldn't throw a high-compression head onto an engine that performs badly either.
@@AstraWerke a carb cheater is basically a tuning helper device. Thunderhead289 builds them.
@@Engineerd3d Looks alot to me like an electrolically controlled air valve. My car is already running too lean, so adding even more air probably won't help any
@@AstraWerke I was thinking about the snap crackle and pop you are experiencing, it is due to lean conditions and that is called pinging. Tune it by ear. Also the electronically controlled air valve is correct, however it is also giving you data logging ability via 02 sensor.
Just wondering, could a car like the Model A be checked/adjusted on a modern alignment-rack?
Would the laser-boards even be attachable?
To be honest, I don't even know how these work, so I can't give a valuable opinion on that
@3:44 to 4:00 you mentioned a tool to checking towing (i hope i spelled that correctly), What is the name or part number for this tool?
It's called a Toe Measuring Gauge. They are variable and not designed specifically for the Model A.
Not going to lie-it made me a bit uncomfortable to see you taking even more rubber off of those poor tires, but hopefully it will get you a tread that will work, at least for a little while.
Pretty neat solution for the vacuum tank and wipers. The one way valve will make a good addition.
"Just" a Model A Ford after all? Shame on you! 😉
Well, I didn't make the tread any deeper than the deeper parts of the original profile - as long as I don't cut into the wire webbing, I'm not worried.
Well, if there's an engine out there that won't care what condition it is in, it's certainly the Model A's xD
wollen wir mal hoffen das der motor heile bleibt...😉
A silly question, because i cant recall, what was the clearances on the oil pump ?
Good question xD
S.g. Vorsitzender der Astra Werke. 😁 ;-)
👍👌👏 Uuuund wieder ein tolles Video, zusätzlich mit vielen Informationen und wirklich guter Musik. Gratulation 🎉 2) In sehr vielen Videos sehe ich Oldtimer Besitzer Shell Rotella Motoröl für Dieselmotoren in ihre alten Diesel- UND Benzinmotoren füllen. Dies Produkt hat wohl sehr viele gute Additive und eignet sich nicht nur für Maschinen mit hohen Kilometerleistungen. Ist vielleicht in entsprechender Spezifikation auch für ihr Model A nutzbar? 2a) Das von ihnen zu einem anderen Kommentar erwähnte 10W40 halte ich für deutlich zu dünn um in solch einer alten Motorenkonstruktion gut zu funktionieren respektive den notwendigen Schmierfilm aufrecht zu erhalten. Z.B. selbst für meine damaligen 1970/1980er Mercedes Vorkammer Dieselmotoren war werkseitig noch 20W50 für Sommerbetrieb und 15W40 für Winterbetrieb empfohlen.
3) Ich gehe natürlich konform mit ihnen, dass zu mageres Gemisch die Fehlzündungen und vor allem auch die Überhitzungsprobleme verursacht hat.
4) In meiner Jugend hatten wir 3 große Daimler Benz Tanklastzüge. Es war gang und gäbe die Reifen mindestens einmal nachzuschneiden. Dafür gab es spezielle, handgeführte Maschinen welche die Klingen erhitzt haben. Es gab verschieden profilierte Schneidklingen, diese außerdem in unterschiedlichen Höhen.
Ich wünsche ihnen viiiiiel Glück und weniger Frust mit ihrem frisch überholten Motor und warte auf ein neues, spannendes Video.
Vielen Dank für's Herstellen Erklären Filmen Editieren Uploaden und Teilen.
Viele Grüße, Glück und Gesundheit für/an alle Beteiligten.
Vielen Dank.
Die Diskussion ums richtige Öl ist natürlich ein Riesenthema und häufig auch Glaubensfrage;
mein Kenntnisstand ist:
Je höher die Temperatur, desto zäheres Öl sollte man fahren.
Je enger die Lagerluft, desto dünneres Öl sollte man fahren.
Höhere Leistung -> zäheres Öl
Drucklose Schmierung -> Dünneres Öl
Hohe Geschwindigkeiten -> Dünneres Öl.
Ford hat seinerzeit SAE30 empfohlen, später dann SAE40 im Sommer und 20 im Winter.
Mit 10w40 versuche ich, ihm sowohl im kalten Zustand ein dünnflüssiges (10), und im warmen ein immer noch recht zähes (40) Öl zu bieten.
20w50 nehmen viele für ihren Oldtimer, ich halte das nur dann ratsam, wenn der Motor schon einige zehntausend Kilometer runter hat - insbesondere bei der Schleuderschmierung befürchte ich, dass so zähe Suppe sonst nicht überall hin kommt. Ich fahre den Wagen ja doch häufiger mal recht zügig.
Wahrscheinlich ist es dem Motor egal - das Öl der 30er Jahre war im kalten Zustand zäh wie Honig und bei Betriebstemperatur dünn wie Wasser... Die Motoren haben's trotzdem überlebt.
Von Seiten Paul Shinn hab ich sogar 5w30 empfohlen gekriegt - alles andere würde laut ihm auf Dauer zu Lagerschäden führen... Man fragt 3 Leute und kriegt 5 Antworten.
Dein pischen was du hast ist magerpitschen flatheads mögen es fett und als ölstabi würde ich das von lucas nehmen ich fahre das auf opel cih ford v4 und sämtlichen motorrädern
What oil do you use? it might benefit from Duckhams, the green stuff. Its on the thick side.
I use 10w40 with added zddp.
I'm hesitant to use thicker stuff - the clearances are rather tight and with no pressure oil feed, thick oil might not get everywhere, especially at higher speeds.
@@AstraWerkeHola soy de Argentina tengo varios A, los primeros 6milk los uso muy despacio y tramos cortos para asentarlos, tengo casi 52 años y arme el primer motor de mi A,cuando tenia 14 años,tengo miles de km recorridos,no les pongo aceite multigrado,le pongo Helix monogrado s.a.e 40, con los multigrado terminan golpeando si le das uso intensivo,y cuando están más acentados después de los 10 mil km,si les pongo molikote.
Los armó con babitt,acá cojinetes desmontables no duran si le das uso intensivo,
La tos del carburador puede estar tapado algún conducto del cuerpo saludos.
I felt concerned when, in an earlier video, you referred to more “conservative” timing. From what I’ve read it appears that there is an optimum timing range based on RPM and load, and engine temperature can be too high from either too retarded or too advanced timing. Many years ago I read an account of riding an old Harley Davidson motorcycle with manual spark control. The fellow forgot to advance it after starting and was riding several hours at highway speed. He then noticed the exhaust header was glowing bright red! From this I always remembered that too retarded a spark setting generates excessive heat.
It was fascinating to see inside the engine, particularly the underside of the pistons.
As for oil (oh boy, everyone is an expert) I concur that our Model A engines can tolerate a wide range of oil specifications. I’ve used a variety, including 5W-30. Currently trying a “racing” oil that has much higher levels of zinc than normal. I considered using a zinc additive but read that there are many different formulations and the particular zinc must be compatible with the oil’s composition or it will do nothing. The article was authored by a petrochemical engineer. He made the point that a consumer cannot accurately predict which additive will work, so just buy the oil already formulated for the issue you want to address.
As sane as that sounds, I add Marvel Mystery Oil to each tank of gas. Why? I don’t know, it’s a mystery to me.
Well, I tried doing everything right by following manufacturer instructions.
May not have been right after all.
I hope the MoS2 will serve the same purpose as ZDDP would. I did run Zinc oil before the engine overhaul, and mistakingly thought a fresh engine wouldn't need it.
Diese Spuren sehen auf der Kamera viel schlimmer aus als wenn man den Kopf runter nimmt habe ich selber letztens nämlich extra deswegen gemacht und im Endeffekt geht der Kreuzschliff durch diese riefen immer noch durch und die Riefen haben keine Tiefe die kann man mit dem Fingernagel überhaupt nicht spüren.
Mach dir keine Sorgen darüber...
How Ironic. Over here in the "new world", be have been "meet ups" with Vintage VWs :)
Promo sm
Hallo, Ich habe 5 Reifen abzugeben. wenn du Interesse hast, sag bescheid. Gruß Hans-Peter
Käme drauf an, wie alt sie sind und von welcher Marke
@@AstraWerkekann ich dir eine Mail schicken?
@@hans-petergreifenhagen3038 Gern. adrian.straub@ymail.com