If anyone has questions about the inherent German desire and devotion to 'Details' this video should answer any and all questions! I, my self am 1/2 'Prussian' by DNA and am often described as a 'fourth decibel point guy' so I completely understand. I'm sure you get it! You Sir are what I refer to (admirably) as a 'Pi + 1' Gent. Once a born in Germany BMW (Motorcycle) Mechanic I enjoyed friendship with kept going deeper and deeper into decimals and as I said "Enough' he said...."but you're German" to which I replied.....yes, but I'm only 'HALF GERMAN' He understood. LOL.
Keep in mind the adjustment of your distributor. I would say most people were oblivious to adjusting the distributor but over the years it turned out to be a critical part of emissions and drivability if you are running points it's critical Point Gap rotor two cap and make sure the distributor cam is a smooth as a baby's bottom and you should update it with the new distributor screw for oiling the upper end of the distributor if you wanted to cheat and see where you're at at all times install an oxygen sensor and Spud into the exhaust pipe then you can read it with a voltmeter it can be removed once you've learned how to drive the car. Newer distributors have centrifugal advance and vacuum assist
Interesting stuff on the dating side, it is a fun quest to uncover the car's history and piece together what its life story was, always nice to know. From Trico's own words regarding the use of vacuum to power the wiper motor (taken from a service supplement dated 1st October 1958), the tapping to the inlet manifold is subject to the same pressure difference between the atmosphere and the inlet manifold at a given instant. Effectively the vacuum is obtained by pumping and the source is from a controlled point, different to a leak, which is uncontrolled. The vacuum & break to atmosphere are made as the paddle cycles through its wipe, when the wiper is turned off, the paddle snaps to a positive closure of the line, conveniently used to park the wiper blade, but vacuum in the line still exists all the while the engine is running, but as there is nothing to connect to the atmosphere then it will not affect the running of the engine. Interesting to see that the canister collapse like that, such is atmospheric pressure! I have only recently fitted Trico vacuum wiper motors to both of my Swallows (both missing/defective) and having been on a road trip recently when it rained everyday, the motor was on pretty much all the time, I was impressed by its operation and I am a convert. I did think about a vacuum reservoir (as used on 1950's Fords supplied in the UK), but actually, the times it stopped completely were few and it managed to do something pretty much all the time and it was great to see it flapping about, no worries about the motor over heating, draining the battery, etc., just "free" power to wipe the screen! So, happy to experience the wiping experience as they did in the 1930's! Thanks for sharing your video, greetings from the UK!
But wouldn't you agree that the mixture should be leaner with the wipers on than with the wipers off? Plus, the wipers air demand isn't constant, so that should also affect the regularity of idle.
@@AstraWerke I guess that the intake suck would be the same regardless, the engine does not care where the air comes from, but an interesting point as I could see that there would be a variation switching the wiper on & off, so is the difference so small as not to be noticeable? Or makes no difference as the quantity of air consumed is the same no matter what? Interesting! Not sure how any difference could be measured, easiest would be to see if there was a change in the rpm
@@austinswallow Well if an intake leak can mess up your idle, I'd give the wiper motor similar potential. After all, an intake leak doesn't have to mean that the manifold broke in half, it can just be a tiny bit of air leaking through a gasket that doesn't seal all the way. Then again, sitting at idle and switching the wiper on doesn't affect the idle whatsoever.
Always something. My exhaust farts going downhill once in a while ,not really bad enough to be concerned,,,,,but with a bit more gave open, it helps a bit.And you know how to sew,who knew. Great work as usual on your very anticipated video. Thanks for your time .
I think what I need to do most is drive a tank, not fiddle with the GAV all the time and see how much more fuel the engine consumes. It's a big car and a primitive carb, so it just might be a little more thirsty by nature.
Dear @@AstraWerke guy. So why not simply put on a bit more modern carb? After all a daily driver mustn't be as original as a show car. But it should have a reasonable fuel consumption. Especially for being so slow. Best regards, luck and health in particular.
@@Chr.U.Cas1622 Money, for the most part. A carb used by some of the high-milers that was made for Fordson tractors in France can be a good 5-600€, not including the flange adapter needed - and with no guarantee for quality. I can run a lot of fuel tanks for that amount of cash until the better exonomy pays for itself.
@@AstraWerke Handelt es sich um den Solex 30 AKV Steigstromvergaser den auch Tilo Sickinger in seinem 1929er Model A Roadster mit 3,3l, 40 PS Köln Motor fährt? Habe soeben die hochinteressante Geschichte seines Lebens mit dem Ford gelesen. Einfach super. 2) Bei den heutigen, ständig fluktuierenden (und immer zu hohen) Benzinpreisen, rentiert sich meiner Meinung/Rechnung nach ein Umbau. Aber es ist natürlich ihre Sache. Vielleicht gibt es ja auch einen noch moderneren Steigstromvergaser irgendwo auf der Welt!? Viel Glück beim Finden einer Lösung.
@@Chr.U.Cas1622 Ja, genau der. Modernere Vergaser gibt's bestimmt, gibt auch genügend Leute, die die Ansaugbrücke umdrehen und auf Fallstrom fahren - aber es gibt auch genügend Vergaser, die einfach nur den Verbrauch steigern - die Experimente, da den richtigen zu finden, will ich nicht machen. Direkteinspritzung wäre sicherlich auch sparsamer. Aber ich versuche ja, aus dem, was damals zur Verfügung stand, das beste rauszuquetschen. Es reicht ja schon, wenn eine Düse gebohrt und nicht gerieben wurde, wie im Original. Dann ist die Zerstäubung schon nicht mehr optimal.
Great stuff. I was going to mention the wiper motor. It would be easy enough to completely disconnect it and take it for a drive. Mine has no wiper motor and recently I discovered the vacuum line was completely open so it has had a huge vacuum leak for the past 45 years!
Good to see someone so far away from the US dealing with a Model A. I have a '29 Tudor. Seems like every Model A is a "bitsa" as the British call it. Back in the day they did whatever they had to for a car to stay on the road. I have a Marvel carb on mine which was aftermarket for Model A's. The best mileage I've ever gotten was 15 mpg on a long trip. but since the car is over 90 years old it seems reasonable. I know the price of gas is high, but I don't care. Just driving the car around is worth the price. The air filter may be causing some of the problem. No Model A ever came out of the factory with an air filter installed. If they made it back in the day with none, seems like there's no reason to have one now.
I drove without a filter, it behaved exactly the same. An air filter will help long-term cylinder wear - the model A consumes about a thousand gallons of air per minute going down the road... That's alot of potential debris to eat
Is your carb "air balanced"? Zenith carbs were meant to run with no filter. Running an air filter screws up the internal balance. My car likes the GAV open about 1/2 turn. Model A's are like women, they're all different. Everytime I watch one of your videos my wife says "he must be an engineer"
@@user-fn8re8vr7m May I direct You to Mechanics Log #5 where I address that issue. I tried out the recommendation of driving without a filter - to no avail. A filter would richen up the mixture, my issue is the mixture getting too lean.
Silly question for you. Have you tried a different carb? Those old carbs are very simple, but they don't always act right. A friend of mine and I rebuilt 5 Marvel carbs for our Model A's. They all ran great on my car and his truck. But on his '30 coupe everyone of them ran rich and would blow black smoke no matter how they were set.
I really enjoy your videos! 👍 About the carburettor. I have some experience in Linkert carbs, same fashion I guess although I haven’t studied what the model A uses fully. To be noted: Float level critical, original cork doesn’t hold for modern fuels (the laquer…), don’t use a heavy float of brass but use modern foam plastic replacement. Low speed (idle) and high speed jets “cooperate”. Vacuum leaks are not easily found with the spray can. I check by using compressed air and dish soap water. A bit more work, but it reveals itself very good. After many years applying this principle I have now a totally vacuum free (MC) engine which responds very well to my carb adjustments. A big difference to when it didn’t. These setups were quite good back in the day, it should be possible for you too. But they like a lot of fuel too, better too much than too lean - that’s the cost you pay driving vintage things…😊 Keep on the good work! //Johan U
@@AstraWerke - correct! Make an adapter plate of wood or plastic which bolts to the manifold (same fashion as carb flange). Drill a hole for a air hose connector and apply low pressure, 0.1 kg or so. Try to find a good position for the crankshaft so it does not bleed through engine too fast. Spray mix of soapy water and trace any leaks. The carburettor shall of course be thoroughly setup with bushings and all - but in this way you find leaks very easily. Shall work on car engine too, I think! Hope it helps. 👍
I forgot: if your test with the “vacuum tank” works and needs a permanent and nice looking solution, buy an old Pyrene fire extinguisher in brass. Can probably be converted to a nice looking tank in the engine compartment. Period correct too..! 😀
I have a similar problem. I'm constantly interacting with the GAV in stop and go traffic. I can develop sufficient power for "in town" driving with the GAV completely closed. But when engine braking begins for the upcoming stops, the carb pops until I open the GAV. I live in Houston, so on hot days (which are most of them) when sitting at a traffic light, I must close the GAV completely since the engine starts overloading with fuel and struggles. I've tried everything, including a carb rebuild with tested jets, etc. Not a big deal, but as you say, I shouldn't need to do that frequently. Interested to see your solution if you found. Enjoy your videos.
Interesting dating research. I think Ford tried to use up whatever parts were available, so cars often had older-style components than you’d expect. GAV should be open a little for normal operation. With regard to vacuum reservoirs I recall that in 1960s and 70s American cars, they looked just like soup cans (steel with reinforcing ribs).
The noise deadening was a great idea. I have cut a piece to cover where the heater would come through it helps I live in Florida so don't need the heat!
And the other is nature of the beast. I think in that period of time Americans just wanted something that got them around faster than a horse and didn't care about the noise! Bit I live my 1930 5 window coupe!
The MPG is down a bit probably for being a fresh motor. I would run GAV 1/4 to 1/8 at all times, this should solve the pop on deceleration some and bump the timing back on the lever also. The GAV shouldn't adjust idle mixture too much, I know that the manual states the proper adjustment and I have never found one to run right with the GAV all the way in. I know that is also dependent on weather etc. I think 1 turn out for cold start, and crank in to 1/2 to 1/4 for proper operation? Going off memory here, its been a while for me. Another thing to think of is going to the Tillotson Model X carb, its still period correct but Is a bit more performance and I have found it to be the better carb all in all for the ones I have driven. Your plugs look pretty good, I am almost wondering if you need a smidge more timing on the upper end to get the MPG more in range also... Theoretically I think 17 to 18 with a motor as fresh as yours is ball park. So you are not far off, plus the other question is how many hills are you pulling? Hills and terrain kill MPG. On the Vacuum canister idea, great idea. Add a check valve on the motor side of it, this will help keep the canister under vac longer also and make it not throttle dependent. You may put a ball valve in line also under the cowl to be able to shut down the vac canister when not in use also or in the event of another failure also. She may be pieced together from a few cars but still a beauty. Good work on the spare tire mount, I think the angle is better than factory angle also.
It is pretty hilly around here, funnily enough I haven't noticed too big a difference in fuel economy whether travelling on flat vs mountainous terrain. I timed the car so max advance is at 28° before TDC. That's what the insert bearing manufacturer recommends. Before the rebuild, I had it more around 38° advance... Not sure if that contributed to my bearing failiure.
@@56dodgepickupman Depending on load, usually around 25-30 mph, so maybe around 1500rpm. Sadly, carburetters are VERY hard to find over here. And if you find one, it's most likely one that someone wants to get rid of because of some issue.
@@AstraWerke May be worth pulling the plugs under a hot run... So run it down the road and cut the fuel back, Shut it off and coast to stop, pull the plug and check what it looks like then. It will tell what the mixture is at cruise, you could just be super lean and its not happy? Fresh motors tend to want more fuel anyways, so I think youre close to getting her dialed in and the mileage should improve once the motor gets about 3-5k miles on her. Thats my normal take. Glad to see you getting her out and about brother. Hope things get dialed in better soon for you.
@@56dodgepickupman I recently have - it was indeed way lean. Looks like she's just thirsty, but what does that tell me? Poor atomization from the jets? All that fuel's got to at least do something, right?
Just wanted to say a few things here, 1. Do you use a lead additive to your gas ? Lead was used in gas back then and actually acted like a lubricant to the upper engine parts. 2. You said your carb and engine are from different vehicles . Did they not make different carbs for high and low altitude? You might have the wrong carb on your engine for your area. I have seen this on lawnmowers in the past. 3. check the valve seats. running rich can cause them not to seat properly because of built up carbon . Hope that helps and I enjoy your videos very much. you took great care and time in that engine rebuild!
Hi, since the A's were built before lead was used comprehensively, they don't usually require an additive. During the run-in period, however, I did add two-stroke oil to the fuel in an effort to lubricate the top end a little. I flow-tested the carb jets, they all came out in spec. Judging from the white deposits on the valves, the car has been running too lean. In the meantime, I was able to rectify the backfiring, heat and fuel consumption issues by re-setting the ignition timing.
@@AstraWerke Running lean is not good at all. Has the timing adjustment fixed that issue? By your answer I can tell you've done your research. Keep us updated on your progress. I'm curious.
@@user-dt9pb2xc9gWell, not as a direct cause, but when I initially calculated the mileage (with timing too late), I just deduced from the figues it was running too rich - without having a look at the spark plugs first. I then got pretty chintzy with the GAV to try and keep the fuel consumption at a tolerable level - from what I was used to before the rebuild, at least. After adjusting the spark, fuel consumption dropped - so I opened up the GAV a little more, which got the mixture dialed back in. I've scheduled another Mechanics Log for mid December, where I'll quickly glimpse over the topic.
I had similar issues with fuel mixture, although mine has a Model B engine and carb. I bought a set of carburettor jet drills and built a test rig out of PVC tube. I found they were way out of spec. It now runs a lot better and uses less fuel.
I had a similar symptom where the engine would pop and spit on engine braking and at idle. I chased the problem for a long time trying everything on the fuel side. I discovered the problem on my car was an exhaust leak! Mine was at the clamp at the back of the manifold. Once I fixed that it was like a brand new car!
Now about the vacuum problem, Ford came up with a double acting fuel pump. One side is for the fuel, the other side is for the wiper vacuum. It worked well until a different system was used.
The noise and vibration problem really irritated me. I installed a rebuilt engine with the touring upgrade ( balanced crankshaft) and installed float-a-motor engine mounts. I still could not have a conversation with my passenger. Finally, I installed a Mitchell gear-splitter overdrive which in third gear high drops the rpm's by 800 revolutions. That helped the vibration and noise immensely. At 55 mph the Special Delivery just hums along and conversation is at a normal level. It's a costly solution but I think worth it.
I would suggest you remove the air cleaner and see if that improves the idling issue. The stock carb did not have one and my understanding is that with such low compression with the engine the air fuel ratio cannot be maintained accurately.
i totally agree to Robert. Adrian : Your engine wont fall to bits with some km of driving without filter. ( I did more than 100.000 km without filter) Still my car does lean-bang-sounds downhills aspecially once timing is full retard (while trying to engine-break - lol)
Great video Adrian. My Model T, 1927 Tourer, has a fully balanced SCAT crank, aluminium pistons and all new bearings etc and, whilst smother, is in no way smooth or quite running. At 70kph you are hard pressed to chat with your passenger let alone hear yourself think. 😝. That advertisement for the full spare wheel cover is an English one as it cost 35/- (35 shillings or 1 pound 15 shillings).
Thanks for your honesty :D After all the positive posts online I thought surely I did something wrong since my engine still isn't "smooth as a Wankel" xD The ad is indeed from GB - they advertised the luggage rack in it.
I found that in my Amazon with a Zenith 34 VN downdraft carburetor that it would make popping sounds in the exhaust if the idle mixture was slightly lean. It was presumably set up correct at idle, but found it to be happier with a little bit richer idle mixture when letting go of the accelerator pedal. I know I have a vacuum leak still, which might be part of the cause.
I recall reading on a Volvo PV forum that someone had a crack internally in the manifold. As the manifold got warmer, the crack opened between the inlet and exhaust. This created a vacuum leak. Other than that, my experience with finding vacuum leaks is that the RPM will not increase, but decrease. If hitting the right spot, even stall the engine.
I've very surprised that can couldn't take the vacuum. Though these cans are designed to deal with positive pressure and not negative (pressure pushing out vs atmosphere pushing in on the side of the can), they are usually pretty strong. You can probably glue the can to the hose clamps. With the can glued to the hose clamps, the can cannot collapse without taking the hose clamps with it.
Bezüglich Vergaser: ich würde eine größere leerlaufdüse benutzen. So kann das Gemisch bei Vollgas magerer bleiben und im leerlauf ist es etwas fetter. Die Düsen kann man wenn man so feine Bohrer hat einfach aufbohren.
Yep ------------ Those Judging Manuals tell the --- Whole --- story ------- right down to where the Factory Worker dropped his Peanut Butter and Jelly sandwich on the rear crossmember ----- you closely at the picture --- you can see through the paint where the Jelly etched the metal ------- as for the carburetor --- you got me on that one ---- I'll have to turn to --YOU -- for the answers ----------Since there are Judging Manuals covering every part of a Model A ----------- Do you think in the near future there will be a --- Book / Guide on Adrian ----- From time he was born ---- through the up bring years --- to present day ----- Were there Aliens at Hyde Park when you were there that night ------ Well ----- I guess that is for another time ----- Thank You for the Video ------ Sorry --- not much help on the Carb. ---- See You on your next one ----- Take Care ---- Rodney
Another Ford model A expert had the same problem. during a slowdown, the engine would backfire and also have rough performance. Come to find out, it was a leaking exhaust gasket. After replacing it and checking the condition of the exhaust manifold, re-assembly and the problem was gone. This might help you. Just a thought.
That’s what I’ve heard as well as the first thing to check. Mine does this with an Allstate carb and I found opening the gav about 1 1/2 turns helped. But that’s making gas consumption worse.
Die israelische Firma Silentium hat ein neues Noise-Canceling für Autos entwickelt, das ohne schwere Dämmmaterialien auskommt. Stattdessen nutzt man die gleiche Technik, die bei Noise-Canceling-Kopfhörern zum Einsatz kommt: Gegenschall. Damit sollen bis zu 90 Prozent der Fahrgeräusche im Innenraum nicht mehr hörbar sein.
Wow! It's fascinating to see the detail in the judging information. Ford really did believe in "evolution" (constant small changes for improvement). Tough to say what might be going on with the carburetor, but it does sound like it might be an air/fuel ratio problem (vacuum leak or air leak). Why it would only occur during specific parts of the acceleration/deceleration range is a mystery to me. Do you have another complete carburetor that you can do a swap with? It might be something very subtle with your current one. As for the vacuum reservoir, that is something quite common on cars from the 70s to the 90s when vacuum actuators for the HVAC system were all the rage. I bet you could score a reservoir from a wrecker's yard that would do the trick. If I remember correctly, Volvo used to use molded plastic reservoirs, so a used one might be in better shape than a steel can.
Sadly it's really tough to get hands onto a carb over here - and then you cant say if it's any good. I'll see if I can just solder some tubing together to do the job - ain't much space where I'd like to put the reservoir.
@@AstraWerke Maybe Santa Claus will give you a rebuilt carb for Christmas. You never know!🙃 As for the vacuum reservoir, there are a ton of different shapes and sizes that were used over the years by different manufacturers. A bit of Google image searching might turn up one that would work. At the very least, it would be able to withstand the tremendous vacuum created by your mighty 40hp 4-cylinder.😆
Many years ago a friend of mine used a piece of PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride) with two end caps as a storage tank for his wiper. He installed it between the back of the fire wall and front of fuel tank. He claimed it worked great!
Dear Astra Werke CEO. 👍👌👏 Very interesting video again and as always. 2) Vibrations can be extremely annoying. I simply can't stand them, it literally drives me nuts. On modern cars it's often caused by the wheels. Also the engine mount, gear box mount, Hardy disc and driveshaft can be the problem. I can't remember if you balanced your wheels and the driveshaft. If I remember correctly, Coldwarmotors Model T had a vibration problem caused by a worn out respectively defective rear end (differential). I really hope that you will find the problem soon. Thanks a lot for making teaching explaining recording editing uploading and sharing. Best regards luck and health in particular.
I can narrow the cause of vibrations down to the engine with certainty, because the humming goes away the second I disengage the clutch when going at speed. Since the differential, driveshaft and transmission keep spinning, any vibration there would remain, even with the engine idling. What I find a bit sad is that, upon deciding whether or not to go for the counterbalanced crankshaft, I read dozens of online posts, where people praised the difference that crankshaft made... Now that I tell my story and say that, while it improved things, it's far away from the "silky smooth, inaudible engine performance" everybody talked about, I get multiple responses stating they made the same experience. Hard to tell whom to believe xD One thing I heard about was splicing a flex-tube in between the muffler and the exhaust manifold. The theory is that the muffler in itself acts as a resonance chamber, which can be eliminated by dampening its vibrations. We'll see.
@@AstraWerke 👍👌👏 A flex tube between header and exhaust piping is always a good idea. Whether it's a relatively modern car or an Oldtimer. 2) Hmm... das sehe ich differenzierter. Denn unter Last respektive bei Last verhalten sich sich drehende Teile an Autos oft sehr unterschiedlich. Zumindest meiner langjährigen Erfahrung nach. So könnte zum Beispiel ihr Vibrationsproblem durchaus mit dem Getriebe zusammen hängen. Bei getretenem Kupplungspedal kann Ruhe einkehren, weil der Druck der Kupplung Lagerspiel und Ausrücklager quasi beruhigt respektive minimiert. Die Kardanwelle läuft/schwingt unter Last auch anders als ohne Last. Selbst bei gleicher Geschwindigkeit. Es ist einfach lästig und schwierig die Ursachen von Vibrationen zu finden. Ich hoffe sie nicht zu sehr zu nerven. Ferndiagnosen sind eh meist unklar. Vibrationen muss man wohl selbst spüren um sie hernach aufspüren zu können. Herr Tilo Sickinger erzählt in seiner Geschichte von genau dem ruhigen Motorlauf (nach Generalüberholung in Lehrwerkstatt vor vielen Jahren) den Sie anstreben. Im Prüfstand mit vollem Glas Wasser auf Zylinderkopf und Vollgas. Vielleicht lesen sie die Story einmal (falls nicht eh bereits bekannt). Ansonsten kann ihnen vielleicht Paul Shinn in den USA und/oder Strong's Garage in Kanada helfen. Wobei es bestimmt in Europa auch wirkliche Model A Spezialisten gibt, oder? Ich wünsche ihnen jedenfalls viel Erfolg beim minimieren der Vibrationen. Post Scriptum: Wollte ihnen eigentlich einen kleinen Feuerlöscher als Unterdruck Vorratskammer vorschlagen. Dies haben Sie allerdings ja bereits in die Tat umgesetzt. 👍👌👏
@@Chr.U.Cas1622 Das stimmt, die Vibrationen treten aber auch dann auf, wenn ich einfach nur im Leerlauf gas gebe. Ich hatte dabei auch schon mal probeweise den Riemen runter genommen, um eine Unwucht in Ventilator und Lichtmaschine ausschließen zu können. Den Artikel von Hrn. Sicklinger habe ich mehrfach gelesen - faszinierende Geschichte. Die Laufruhe seines Motors kann ich leider nicht reproduzieren - und ich habe bis jetzt auch kein Model A erlebt, was diese Laufruhe zeigen würde. Ich habe schon den Tip bekommen, dass die Verteilernocke Mist sein könnte. Was nutzt ein balancierter Motor, wenn die Zündfolge ungleich ist? Um das zu prüfen, muss ich allerdings noch eine Möglichkeit finden, den Motor um genau 180° zu drehen... Ich schau, was ich tun kann.
@@AstraWerke Auch im Leerlauf! Das ist 💩! Kann dann wohl tatsächlich nur mit dem Motor respektive dessen Schwungmassen zusammen hängen. Pech. Schade, dass es ausgerechnet bei einem neu und akribisch aufgebauten Motor auftritt. 2) Zündnocken- Spur lohnt das Verfolgen. Wenn Sie mit dem Auto in eine gute Bosch Werkstatt fahren, müsste man doch auf dem Monitor des Testers eine Ungleichheit im Zündungsverlauf sehen können. Natürlich muss mit verschiedenen Drehzahlen getestet werden. Es entzieht sich leider meiner Kenntnis ob es heutzutage vielleicht bereits irgendwelche Diagnose Apps fürs Smartphone oder Laptop gibt. 3) Würde eine kontaktlose (digitale) Zündung eventuell Abhilfe schaffen können? Da fällt mir ein: In Mülheim- Kärlich (bei Koblenz) besitzt die deutschlandweit bekannte und anerkannte Vergaser- und Zündungsspezialistin Anette Hue eine ständig ausgebuchte Werkstatt. Vielleicht hat sie einen Tipp für einen besseren Vergaser und Zündung. Fragen kostet nichts. Bis zum nächsten Mal verbleibe ich mit freundlichen Grüßen. Gute Nacht.
Zum Lärm: über diese matten nochmal günstigen Teppich kleben und vor allem zur spritzwand hin noch solche dämmmatten.... Es gibt so zeug was aussieht wie diese malerplane aus Stofffaserresten nur in dicker. Das hilft auch gut.
Von Matten muss ich Abstand halten - konstruktionsbedingt regnet es in die Türen rein - und wenn sich der Filz dann vollzusaugen beginnt, beginnt der Verfall. Dann lieber ein bisschen mehr Krach.
Re: your carb. The fact that the GAV is affecting the idle rpm is definitely a sign that something's not right. Do you have a timing light or tachometer that you can use to measure the rpm? I would like to know your baseline idle rpm with the GAV closed. The problem manifests while engine braking and stopping, which are both situations in which the driver releases the accelerator pedal, thus closing the butterfly valve, while the engine is still generating strong vacuum. I would take two diagnostic steps: 1. Temporarily disconnect the vacuum wiper line from the intake and plug the hole. You want to be sure that air isn't being sucked in from that line by the powerful vacuum during engine braking. If there were a leak in that line which only opens during engine braking, it would produce the behavior you describe. Then close the GAV while driving and see whether you get the stall condition when engine braking. 2. If the condition is not cured by step 1, then, as you slow down and the engine starts to stall, pull the choke rod. Pulling the choke rod should dump fuel into the FAM temporarily and reduce the lean condition. Report back on whether either of these have any effect.
Measuring idle speed with the GAV closed would be difficult, as it starts to miss, hickup and then die. With the GAV about 1/8 to 1/4 open, I'd say it's between 250 and 350 rpm depending on whether I'm standing uphill or downhill. Playing with the GAV in said positions, I'm pretty sure that the car runs lean with the nose facing down and rich facing uphill - with the position of the secondary well, that's the nature of the thing, I reckon. I had disconnected and sealed off the wiper hose - to no avail. Haven't tried choking it yet, but I'd imagine that'd be similar to opening the GAV while approaching the stop, which cures the issue.
@@AstraWerke Does the idle air mixture screw have any effect when you open and close it? If yes, have you done the procedure to optimize your idle using both the throttle stop and the idle air mix screws?
@@alexiskai If you mean the basic carb tuning procedure, yes I have. Idle it down, close the idle mix screw until it starts to run rough, open it up until it starts to run rough, set screw in the middle.
@@AstraWerke OK, so that means you are running on the idle circuit. But clearly also running on the CAP circuit because the GAV is affecting the idle speed. Weird. This kind of issue is difficult to troubleshoot when you only have one carb and you don't have access to a "known good" carb. If there are problems with the passages in the cast carb body, there's no way to isolate that. This might be a problem you have to live with unless/until you get access to another Zenith for comparison. As a workaround, you might try setting the idle at 400 rpm, with the idle mix adjusted accordingly. This speed is still low enough that you shouldn't grind any gears when shifting, and the engine might be able to cope with high vacuum better.
@@alexiskai There's no trouble if I don't retard the spark all the way. Having the lever about half way down the quadrant will keep the engine running more or less good during deceleration, but it will cause a little gear clashing when going into 1st from a dead stop. At the moment, my routine whenever I see a traffic light go red is: Open the Gav, get off the throttle, retard spark to half, come to a stop, get out of gear, retard spark all the way. It works, but it's alot, especially in rush-hour traffic.
I noticed in your explanation of the idle problem. Here is a youtube video, of how to "Calibrate Throttle accelerator Linkage, which may help ??😀 Link:th-cam.com/video/GEO83u2GDpg/w-d-xo.html
For the vibration, did you replace your universal?, front drive shaft bearing? I had a bad vibe in mine, changed the universal and front bearing, vibe gone. A customer of mine had a loose pressure plate. On the carb, Paul could be right, but you did check all that. However, I have seen cracked and warped manifolds. Hard to find or see sometimes. Also, I had a carb give me problems like you have. First, float looked ok. I changed it anyway and better. I was using a viton tip float valve. Good at first but after 4 months it would stick shut. I have tried numerous ones from reputable vendors, same story. So I went back to the cheapo one from Brattons. No problems. I realize people love them, but I had no luck. Just some food for thought. Let us know how things turn out.
The vibrations also occur when just revving the engine in neutral, so I can rule out the drivetrain. Thanks for the tips regarding the carb, I've gotten loads of clues to hunt down and I'll keep you updated once I find something out
Thank you for your reply. I did not know it vibrated in neutral. Flywheel balanced? Mine is cut to 45 pounds. Easier on rear main. Motor mounts? I don't like floata-motors. Engine components balanced? If you used inserts, the rear main must fit right. You're a very skilled guy and I'm sure you know all of the things I've asked. I've just seen some crazy stuff with these cars. Paul Shinn is a great guy to know. Thankfully you have him to bounce things off of. Please keep me posted, I'm always interested in learning something new. Brian
@brianmatthews9697 If you have some extra time to kill, take a look at my other "Mechanic's Logs". You'll find I balanced Pistons, Pins, Rods and Flywheel. Clutch and Crankshaft were already pretty good. I ran the engine in neutral without a belt to rule out the water pump, fanblade and generator as possible cause. I don't see how Float-a-Motors would increase engine vibrations - they may ruin your frame and screw up the geometry of the drivetrain, but shouldn't turn a good running engine into a rattlecan. I know Paul Shinn, we even did a video collaboration when I refurbished my steering box.
Is your carburetor balanced? Mine was not, I also run an air filter. But these carburetors from the factory have atmospheric Vents and they are not intended for an air filter. There are plenty of resources on how to balance a zenith carburetor. And all that is is tying all those atmospheric vents into the filtered air. I had some trouble with mine sometimes. It would either run lean or Rich depending on the situation and it was not consistent. I balanced my carburetor and it seemed to fix it.
Hadn't heard about that yet, did a quick search online and found a very even pro/contra distribution, some claiming it fixed the issue, others claiming the opposite. Not sure if I want to risk ruining my carburettor for an experiment, so I'll do a test drive without air filter and see if the issue prevails - if it doesn't, I'll come back to the balancing idea.
@@AstraWerke I would definitely try that. it won't cost you anything. It was hard to tune mine for everything. It would idle like garbage and backfire on decel. But it seems to run great now that I balanced my carb.
@@AstraWerke I am 21 and also daily drive my car rain or shine. So I run into all sorts of little things that need addressing. I have a 2500 mile trip in a month so I am trying to make sure the car is in excellent running condition.
@@ethanweixel3336 Is it the red Chevy in your profile picture? I'm completely on your side with that philosophy. My dream would be to get to drive a Model A as they went off the factory line 90 years ago, just so I have a reference what these cars really were like, without the washed-out and glorified memory of grandpas telltales.
@@AstraWerke I have a mid to late 1930 Tudor model A. I rebuilt the chassis this winter and am currently still working on it. But still driving it like it were any other car. Model As make people smile as Paul Shinn says.
Your idling circuit is not working. This book would be very helpful to you: Zeneth Model A Carburetor Restoration Guidelines by Steve Pargeter. Version 3. Address one problem at a time. Good luck.
Are you not supposed to NOT close the gas adjustment valve all the way? (Close it all the way and then 1/4 back). Otherwise mixture is to lean (Check the spark plugs, they should be coffee brown, and NOT white! :)
The owners manual states "On long trips some drivers make a practice of driving with the adjusting rod turned all the way off. This accouts for the excellent gasoline mileage obtained by good drivers." That being said, I have recently pulled the plugs after a high-speed run and found them to be pretty white, so it seems every carb is a little different.
@@AstraWerke i fully agree on that. But i guess thats only for long trips without stopping. You have the issue that it dies at stopping so your mixture is to lean. I would watch out driving so lean/cheap lol. You have now rebuild engine with full compression, and white spark plugs tells you the mixture is to lean. Gasoline acts also as a cooland. Before you know you are burning you exhaust valves or creating a lot of wear on the engine because of high temperature.
@@ClintdeB Main Mistake: Listen to what the manual says. I'll have to go for a ride without messing with the GAV, then look at the plugs and see how much the fuel consumption increased. Because if it didn't noticeably, I might as well leave everything as is, stop fumbling with the adjustment all the time and enjoy motoring instead of trying to fix issues that aren't even there.
@@AstraWerke Danke! Wie ich in der letzten Stunde feststellen musste: Ein neues 'Rabbit Hole'. :O Mal hoffen, dass ich am Wochenende auf dem Flohmarkt vielleicht über sowas stolpere...!
@@TheMinimized Eigentlich sind die nicht besonders selten. Diese Taschenlötlampen gehörten damals zu jedem Bastlerhaushalt und waren sehr günstig zu haben
@@AstraWerke Okay, das kingt gut! Wahrscheinlich hab ich sowas sogar schon mal gesehen, aber dann nicht weiter beachtet. Es fiel mir nur im Video auf und danach dachte ich: 'Mhm, das könnte manchmal nützlich sein'...
Muy bueno,el libro de juzgamiento es muy útil, con respecto al consumo esta perfecto, viajo en ford A y los uso a diario como auto de calle,nunca bajan de los 15lts/c100,los amigos que tenian autos que les gastaban menos cuando salimos juntos y llenamos tanques juntos , siempre gastan mas!, ahí les digo ,como tu auto no gastaba la mitad?. Los eh usado con zenith,thilloston,y carburadores nacionales mochi,se fabricaban aca en Argentina,con el mochi,anda mas rapido pero consume un poco más. Empece a los 14 años a armar mi primer motor A, y estoy por cumplir 52,si usas Instagram pasamelo o te paso el mío,asi te mando imágenes de mis modelos A,saludos
Maybe you have a floating piece of metal you haven't found yet. GL Buddy!
Looking forward to hearing the results of the slow idle issue. Thanks again for taking the time to make and post these videos !!!
Thanks for your in depth videos.
It’s a Model A and it is 93 years old,
just enjoy it. It will never ride like a modern car.
Enjoy your dedication and your very entertaining videos.
All of the old cars-trucks I had as a youngster with vaccuum wipers slowed down on heavier throttle.CHEERS from Westcoast Canada!
If anyone has questions about the inherent German desire and devotion to 'Details' this video should answer any and all questions! I, my self am 1/2 'Prussian' by DNA and am often described as a 'fourth decibel point guy' so I completely understand. I'm sure you get it! You Sir are what I refer to (admirably) as a 'Pi + 1' Gent. Once a born in Germany BMW (Motorcycle) Mechanic I enjoyed friendship with kept going deeper and deeper into decimals and as I said "Enough' he said...."but you're German" to which I replied.....yes, but I'm only 'HALF GERMAN' He understood. LOL.
Well... If you need the car and have no alternatives, it's best to keep everything in tiptop shape so you can rely on it
Good to see a new video🙂
Keep in mind the adjustment of your distributor. I would say most people were oblivious to adjusting the distributor but over the years it turned out to be a critical part of emissions and drivability if you are running points it's critical Point Gap rotor two cap and make sure the distributor cam is a smooth as a baby's bottom and you should update it with the new distributor screw for oiling the upper end of the distributor if you wanted to cheat and see where you're at at all times install an oxygen sensor and Spud into the exhaust pipe then you can read it with a voltmeter it can be removed once you've learned how to drive the car. Newer distributors have centrifugal advance and vacuum assist
It did turn out to be a timing issue - the seller of the bearings said to use no more than 20 degrees of advance... Which is nowhere near enough.
Great to see the Zundapp doing good work ("Spare Tire Cover")
Greetings from Texas! I very much enjoy watching your videos.
Interesting stuff on the dating side, it is a fun quest to uncover the car's history and piece together what its life story was, always nice to know.
From Trico's own words regarding the use of vacuum to power the wiper motor (taken from a service supplement dated 1st October 1958), the tapping to the inlet manifold is subject to the same pressure difference between the atmosphere and the inlet manifold at a given instant. Effectively the vacuum is obtained by pumping and the source is from a controlled point, different to a leak, which is uncontrolled. The vacuum & break to atmosphere are made as the paddle cycles through its wipe, when the wiper is turned off, the paddle snaps to a positive closure of the line, conveniently used to park the wiper blade, but vacuum in the line still exists all the while the engine is running, but as there is nothing to connect to the atmosphere then it will not affect the running of the engine. Interesting to see that the canister collapse like that, such is atmospheric pressure!
I have only recently fitted Trico vacuum wiper motors to both of my Swallows (both missing/defective) and having been on a road trip recently when it rained everyday, the motor was on pretty much all the time, I was impressed by its operation and I am a convert. I did think about a vacuum reservoir (as used on 1950's Fords supplied in the UK), but actually, the times it stopped completely were few and it managed to do something pretty much all the time and it was great to see it flapping about, no worries about the motor over heating, draining the battery, etc., just "free" power to wipe the screen! So, happy to experience the wiping experience as they did in the 1930's!
Thanks for sharing your video, greetings from the UK!
But wouldn't you agree that the mixture should be leaner with the wipers on than with the wipers off?
Plus, the wipers air demand isn't constant, so that should also affect the regularity of idle.
@@AstraWerke I guess that the intake suck would be the same regardless, the engine does not care where the air comes from, but an interesting point as I could see that there would be a variation switching the wiper on & off, so is the difference so small as not to be noticeable? Or makes no difference as the quantity of air consumed is the same no matter what?
Interesting!
Not sure how any difference could be measured, easiest would be to see if there was a change in the rpm
@@austinswallow Well if an intake leak can mess up your idle, I'd give the wiper motor similar potential. After all, an intake leak doesn't have to mean that the manifold broke in half, it can just be a tiny bit of air leaking through a gasket that doesn't seal all the way.
Then again, sitting at idle and switching the wiper on doesn't affect the idle whatsoever.
Always something. My exhaust farts going downhill once in a while ,not really bad enough to be concerned,,,,,but with a bit more gave open, it helps a bit.And you know how to sew,who knew. Great work as usual on your very anticipated video. Thanks for your time .
I think what I need to do most is drive a tank, not fiddle with the GAV all the time and see how much more fuel the engine consumes.
It's a big car and a primitive carb, so it just might be a little more thirsty by nature.
Dear @@AstraWerke guy.
So why not simply put on a bit more modern carb? After all a daily driver mustn't be as original as a show car. But it should have a reasonable fuel consumption. Especially for being so slow.
Best regards, luck and health in particular.
@@Chr.U.Cas1622 Money, for the most part. A carb used by some of the high-milers that was made for Fordson tractors in France can be a good 5-600€, not including the flange adapter needed - and with no guarantee for quality. I can run a lot of fuel tanks for that amount of cash until the better exonomy pays for itself.
@@AstraWerke
Handelt es sich um den Solex 30 AKV Steigstromvergaser den auch Tilo Sickinger in seinem 1929er Model A Roadster mit 3,3l, 40 PS Köln Motor fährt? Habe soeben die hochinteressante Geschichte seines Lebens mit dem Ford gelesen. Einfach super.
2) Bei den heutigen, ständig fluktuierenden (und immer zu hohen) Benzinpreisen, rentiert sich meiner Meinung/Rechnung nach ein Umbau. Aber es ist natürlich ihre Sache. Vielleicht gibt es ja auch einen noch moderneren Steigstromvergaser irgendwo auf der Welt!?
Viel Glück beim Finden einer Lösung.
@@Chr.U.Cas1622 Ja, genau der.
Modernere Vergaser gibt's bestimmt, gibt auch genügend Leute, die die Ansaugbrücke umdrehen und auf Fallstrom fahren - aber es gibt auch genügend Vergaser, die einfach nur den Verbrauch steigern - die Experimente, da den richtigen zu finden, will ich nicht machen.
Direkteinspritzung wäre sicherlich auch sparsamer. Aber ich versuche ja, aus dem, was damals zur Verfügung stand, das beste rauszuquetschen. Es reicht ja schon, wenn eine Düse gebohrt und nicht gerieben wurde, wie im Original. Dann ist die Zerstäubung schon nicht mehr optimal.
That book is amazing, an anorak's dream 😂
Great stuff. I was going to mention the wiper motor. It would be easy enough to completely disconnect it and take it for a drive. Mine has no wiper motor and recently I discovered the vacuum line was completely open so it has had a huge vacuum leak for the past 45 years!
I have already capped the wiper line off - didn't change the engine performance at all.
Good to see someone so far away from the US dealing with a Model A. I have a '29 Tudor. Seems like every Model A is a "bitsa" as the British call it. Back in the day they did whatever they had to for a car to stay on the road. I have a Marvel carb on mine which was aftermarket for Model A's. The best mileage I've ever gotten was 15 mpg on a long trip. but since the car is over 90 years old it seems reasonable. I know the price of gas is high, but I don't care. Just driving the car around is worth the price. The air filter may be causing some of the problem. No Model A ever came out of the factory with an air filter installed. If they made it back in the day with none, seems like there's no reason to have one now.
I drove without a filter, it behaved exactly the same. An air filter will help long-term cylinder wear - the model A consumes about a thousand gallons of air per minute going down the road... That's alot of potential debris to eat
Is your carb "air balanced"? Zenith carbs were meant to run with no filter. Running an air filter screws up the internal balance. My car likes the GAV open about 1/2 turn. Model A's are like women, they're all different.
Everytime I watch one of your videos my wife says "he must be an engineer"
@@user-fn8re8vr7m May I direct You to Mechanics Log #5 where I address that issue.
I tried out the recommendation of driving without a filter - to no avail.
A filter would richen up the mixture, my issue is the mixture getting too lean.
Silly question for you. Have you tried a different carb? Those old carbs are very simple, but they don't always act right. A friend of mine and I rebuilt 5 Marvel carbs for our Model A's. They all ran great on my car and his truck. But on his '30 coupe everyone of them ran rich and would blow black smoke no matter how they were set.
I really enjoy your videos! 👍
About the carburettor. I have some experience in Linkert carbs, same fashion I guess although I haven’t studied what the model A uses fully.
To be noted:
Float level critical, original cork doesn’t hold for modern fuels (the laquer…), don’t use a heavy float of brass but use modern foam plastic replacement.
Low speed (idle) and high speed jets “cooperate”.
Vacuum leaks are not easily found with the spray can. I check by using compressed air and dish soap water. A bit more work, but it reveals itself very good. After many years applying this principle I have now a totally vacuum free (MC) engine which responds very well to my carb adjustments. A big difference to when it didn’t.
These setups were quite good back in the day, it should be possible for you too. But they like a lot of fuel too, better too much than too lean - that’s the cost you pay driving vintage things…😊
Keep on the good work! //Johan U
Can you go into detail about your soap and compressed air approach? Remove the carb and blow air into the intake?
@@AstraWerke - correct! Make an adapter plate of wood or plastic which bolts to the manifold (same fashion as carb flange). Drill a hole for a air hose connector and apply low pressure, 0.1 kg or so. Try to find a good position for the crankshaft so it does not bleed through engine too fast.
Spray mix of soapy water and trace any leaks. The carburettor shall of course be thoroughly setup with bushings and all - but in this way you find leaks very easily. Shall work on car engine too, I think!
Hope it helps. 👍
I forgot: if your test with the “vacuum tank” works and needs a permanent and nice looking solution, buy an old Pyrene fire extinguisher in brass. Can probably be converted to a nice looking tank in the engine compartment. Period correct too..! 😀
@@johanu6481 Thanks, I'll try that!
I have a similar problem. I'm constantly interacting with the GAV in stop and go traffic. I can develop sufficient power for "in town" driving with the GAV completely closed. But when engine braking begins for the upcoming stops, the carb pops until I open the GAV. I live in Houston, so on hot days (which are most of them) when sitting at a traffic light, I must close the GAV completely since the engine starts overloading with fuel and struggles. I've tried everything, including a carb rebuild with tested jets, etc. Not a big deal, but as you say, I shouldn't need to do that frequently. Interested to see your solution if you found. Enjoy your videos.
Interesting dating research. I think Ford tried to use up whatever parts were available, so cars often had older-style components than you’d expect. GAV should be open a little for normal operation. With regard to vacuum reservoirs I recall that in 1960s and 70s American cars, they looked just like soup cans (steel with reinforcing ribs).
The noise deadening was a great idea. I have cut a piece to cover where the heater would come through it helps I live in Florida so don't need the heat!
And the other is nature of the beast. I think in that period of time Americans just wanted something that got them around faster than a horse and didn't care about the noise! Bit I live my 1930 5 window coupe!
I don't have a heater and I'm glad I don't xD
Another great video. I'm just starting to get to grips with my 30 Coupe...lots to do it would seem 😅
The 16 mpg is what they got from the factory they are low compression motors to start with
thank...😉👍👍👍
The MPG is down a bit probably for being a fresh motor. I would run GAV 1/4 to 1/8 at all times, this should solve the pop on deceleration some and bump the timing back on the lever also.
The GAV shouldn't adjust idle mixture too much, I know that the manual states the proper adjustment and I have never found one to run right with the GAV all the way in. I know that is also dependent on weather etc. I think 1 turn out for cold start, and crank in to 1/2 to 1/4 for proper operation? Going off memory here, its been a while for me. Another thing to think of is going to the Tillotson Model X carb, its still period correct but Is a bit more performance and I have found it to be the better carb all in all for the ones I have driven.
Your plugs look pretty good, I am almost wondering if you need a smidge more timing on the upper end to get the MPG more in range also... Theoretically I think 17 to 18 with a motor as fresh as yours is ball park. So you are not far off, plus the other question is how many hills are you pulling? Hills and terrain kill MPG.
On the Vacuum canister idea, great idea. Add a check valve on the motor side of it, this will help keep the canister under vac longer also and make it not throttle dependent. You may put a ball valve in line also under the cowl to be able to shut down the vac canister when not in use also or in the event of another failure also.
She may be pieced together from a few cars but still a beauty. Good work on the spare tire mount, I think the angle is better than factory angle also.
It is pretty hilly around here, funnily enough I haven't noticed too big a difference in fuel economy whether travelling on flat vs mountainous terrain.
I timed the car so max advance is at 28° before TDC. That's what the insert bearing manufacturer recommends.
Before the rebuild, I had it more around 38° advance... Not sure if that contributed to my bearing failiure.
@@AstraWerke What rpm are you max advance at? It may be worth finding another carb and swapping it out to see if things change up for the better?
@@56dodgepickupman Depending on load, usually around 25-30 mph, so maybe around 1500rpm.
Sadly, carburetters are VERY hard to find over here. And if you find one, it's most likely one that someone wants to get rid of because of some issue.
@@AstraWerke May be worth pulling the plugs under a hot run... So run it down the road and cut the fuel back, Shut it off and coast to stop, pull the plug and check what it looks like then. It will tell what the mixture is at cruise, you could just be super lean and its not happy? Fresh motors tend to want more fuel anyways, so I think youre close to getting her dialed in and the mileage should improve once the motor gets about 3-5k miles on her. Thats my normal take. Glad to see you getting her out and about brother. Hope things get dialed in better soon for you.
@@56dodgepickupman I recently have - it was indeed way lean. Looks like she's just thirsty, but what does that tell me? Poor atomization from the jets? All that fuel's got to at least do something, right?
Just wanted to say a few things here, 1. Do you use a lead additive to your gas ? Lead was used in gas back then and actually acted like a lubricant to the upper engine parts. 2. You said your carb and engine are from different vehicles . Did they not make different carbs for high and low altitude? You might have the wrong carb on your engine for your area. I have seen this on lawnmowers in the past. 3. check the valve seats. running rich can cause them not to seat properly because of built up carbon . Hope that helps and I enjoy your videos very much. you took great care and time in that engine rebuild!
Hi,
since the A's were built before lead was used comprehensively, they don't usually require an additive.
During the run-in period, however, I did add two-stroke oil to the fuel in an effort to lubricate the top end a little.
I flow-tested the carb jets, they all came out in spec.
Judging from the white deposits on the valves, the car has been running too lean.
In the meantime, I was able to rectify the backfiring, heat and fuel consumption issues by re-setting the ignition timing.
@@AstraWerke Running lean is not good at all. Has the timing adjustment fixed that issue? By your answer I can tell you've done your research. Keep us updated on your progress. I'm curious.
@@user-dt9pb2xc9gWell, not as a direct cause, but when I initially calculated the mileage (with timing too late), I just deduced from the figues it was running too rich - without having a look at the spark plugs first. I then got pretty chintzy with the GAV to try and keep the fuel consumption at a tolerable level - from what I was used to before the rebuild, at least.
After adjusting the spark, fuel consumption dropped - so I opened up the GAV a little more, which got the mixture dialed back in.
I've scheduled another Mechanics Log for mid December, where I'll quickly glimpse over the topic.
So, you could say that your particular car was a kit with parts from all over. haha
I had similar issues with fuel mixture, although mine has a Model B engine and carb. I bought a set of carburettor jet drills and built a test rig out of PVC tube. I found they were way out of spec. It now runs a lot better and uses less fuel.
That'll be the next step.
That is a good book
I always enjoy your videos
Thanks!
I had a similar symptom where the engine would pop and spit on engine braking and at idle. I chased the problem for a long time trying everything on the fuel side. I discovered the problem on my car was an exhaust leak! Mine was at the clamp at the back of the manifold. Once I fixed that it was like a brand new car!
Oh my car is a 1928 tudor
Now about the vacuum problem, Ford came up with a double acting fuel pump. One side is for the fuel, the other side is for the wiper vacuum. It worked well until a different system was used.
Interesting to know!
The noise and vibration problem really irritated me. I installed a rebuilt engine with the touring upgrade ( balanced crankshaft) and installed float-a-motor engine mounts. I still could not have a conversation with my passenger. Finally, I installed a Mitchell gear-splitter overdrive which in third gear high drops the rpm's by 800 revolutions. That helped the vibration and noise immensely. At 55 mph the Special Delivery just hums along and conversation is at a normal level. It's a costly solution but I think worth it.
I'm still not comfortable with the idea of two shift levers in the car - that's the last thing that separates this thing from a truck xD
I would suggest you remove the air cleaner and see if that improves the idling issue. The stock carb did not have one and my understanding is that with such low compression with the engine the air fuel ratio cannot be maintained accurately.
i totally agree to Robert. Adrian : Your engine wont fall to bits with some km of driving without filter. ( I did more than 100.000 km without filter) Still my car does lean-bang-sounds downhills aspecially once timing is full retard (while trying to engine-break - lol)
Great video Adrian. My Model T, 1927 Tourer, has a fully balanced SCAT crank, aluminium pistons and all new bearings etc and, whilst smother, is in no way smooth or quite running. At 70kph you are hard pressed to chat with your passenger let alone hear yourself think. 😝. That advertisement for the full spare wheel cover is an English one as it cost 35/- (35 shillings or 1 pound 15 shillings).
Thanks for your honesty :D After all the positive posts online I thought surely I did something wrong since my engine still isn't "smooth as a Wankel" xD
The ad is indeed from GB - they advertised the luggage rack in it.
I found that in my Amazon with a Zenith 34 VN downdraft carburetor that it would make popping sounds in the exhaust if the idle mixture was slightly lean. It was presumably set up correct at idle, but found it to be happier with a little bit richer idle mixture when letting go of the accelerator pedal. I know I have a vacuum leak still, which might be part of the cause.
I've tried to purposely adjust the idle mixture "wrong" before - in both directions. Sadly, it didn't improve things any.
I recall reading on a Volvo PV forum that someone had a crack internally in the manifold. As the manifold got warmer, the crack opened between the inlet and exhaust. This created a vacuum leak.
Other than that, my experience with finding vacuum leaks is that the RPM will not increase, but decrease. If hitting the right spot, even stall the engine.
I've very surprised that can couldn't take the vacuum. Though these cans are designed to deal with positive pressure and not negative (pressure pushing out vs atmosphere pushing in on the side of the can), they are usually pretty strong. You can probably glue the can to the hose clamps. With the can glued to the hose clamps, the can cannot collapse without taking the hose clamps with it.
Try pulling on a thin strip of metal, then push it. You'll find a distinctively different behavior!
Bezüglich Vergaser: ich würde eine größere leerlaufdüse benutzen. So kann das Gemisch bei Vollgas magerer bleiben und im leerlauf ist es etwas fetter. Die Düsen kann man wenn man so feine Bohrer hat einfach aufbohren.
Good tips, well done. Keep up the good work! Are these judging manuals for sale enywhere? Thnx., Rob
Take a look online, there are several sellers in the US
Yep ------------ Those Judging Manuals tell the --- Whole --- story ------- right down to where the Factory Worker dropped his Peanut Butter and Jelly sandwich on the rear crossmember ----- you closely at the picture --- you can see through the paint where the Jelly etched the metal ------- as for the carburetor --- you got me on that one ---- I'll have to turn to --YOU -- for the answers ----------Since there are Judging Manuals covering every part of a Model A ----------- Do you think in the near future there will be a --- Book / Guide on Adrian ----- From time he was born ---- through the up bring years --- to present day ----- Were there Aliens at Hyde Park when you were there that night ------ Well ----- I guess that is for another time ----- Thank You for the Video ------ Sorry --- not much help on the Carb. ---- See You on your next one ----- Take Care ---- Rodney
Another Ford model A expert had the same problem. during a slowdown, the engine would backfire and also have rough performance. Come to find out, it was a leaking exhaust gasket. After replacing it and checking the condition of the exhaust manifold, re-assembly and the problem was gone. This might help you. Just a thought.
That’s what I’ve heard as well as the first thing to check. Mine does this with an Allstate carb and I found opening the gav about 1 1/2 turns helped. But that’s making gas consumption worse.
I have flattened both intake and exhaust manifold, so I'm pretty sure that's not it...
Alas, gaskets are cheap, so I'll try that next.
Die israelische Firma Silentium hat ein neues Noise-Canceling für Autos entwickelt, das ohne schwere Dämmmaterialien auskommt. Stattdessen nutzt man die gleiche Technik, die bei Noise-Canceling-Kopfhörern zum Einsatz kommt: Gegenschall. Damit sollen bis zu 90 Prozent der Fahrgeräusche im Innenraum nicht mehr hörbar sein.
on your wheel cover put Betty boop on it
I'm always chasing rattles squeaks and bumps, it drives me nuts! 😢
Chevys of the time were alot quieter!
Wow! It's fascinating to see the detail in the judging information. Ford really did believe in "evolution" (constant small changes for improvement).
Tough to say what might be going on with the carburetor, but it does sound like it might be an air/fuel ratio problem (vacuum leak or air leak).
Why it would only occur during specific parts of the acceleration/deceleration range is a mystery to me.
Do you have another complete carburetor that you can do a swap with? It might be something very subtle with your current one.
As for the vacuum reservoir, that is something quite common on cars from the 70s to the 90s when vacuum actuators for the HVAC system were all the rage.
I bet you could score a reservoir from a wrecker's yard that would do the trick.
If I remember correctly, Volvo used to use molded plastic reservoirs, so a used one might be in better shape than a steel can.
Sadly it's really tough to get hands onto a carb over here - and then you cant say if it's any good.
I'll see if I can just solder some tubing together to do the job - ain't much space where I'd like to put the reservoir.
@@AstraWerke Maybe Santa Claus will give you a rebuilt carb for Christmas. You never know!🙃
As for the vacuum reservoir, there are a ton of different shapes and sizes that were used over the years by different manufacturers. A bit of Google image searching might turn up one that would work. At the very least, it would be able to withstand the tremendous vacuum created by your mighty 40hp 4-cylinder.😆
Many years ago a friend of mine used a piece of PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride) with two end caps as a storage tank for his wiper. He installed it between the back of the fire wall and front of fuel tank. He claimed it worked great!
@@joeg3296 Now THAT is a really clever idea!
Dear Astra Werke CEO.
👍👌👏 Very interesting video again and as always. 2) Vibrations can be extremely annoying. I simply can't stand them, it literally drives me nuts. On modern cars it's often caused by the wheels. Also the engine mount, gear box mount, Hardy disc and driveshaft can be the problem. I can't remember if you balanced your wheels and the driveshaft. If I remember correctly, Coldwarmotors Model T had a vibration problem caused by a worn out respectively defective rear end (differential).
I really hope that you will find the problem soon.
Thanks a lot for making teaching explaining recording editing uploading and sharing.
Best regards luck and health in particular.
I can narrow the cause of vibrations down to the engine with certainty, because the humming goes away the second I disengage the clutch when going at speed. Since the differential, driveshaft and transmission keep spinning, any vibration there would remain, even with the engine idling.
What I find a bit sad is that, upon deciding whether or not to go for the counterbalanced crankshaft, I read dozens of online posts, where people praised the difference that crankshaft made... Now that I tell my story and say that, while it improved things, it's far away from the "silky smooth, inaudible engine performance" everybody talked about, I get multiple responses stating they made the same experience.
Hard to tell whom to believe xD
One thing I heard about was splicing a flex-tube in between the muffler and the exhaust manifold. The theory is that the muffler in itself acts as a resonance chamber, which can be eliminated by dampening its vibrations. We'll see.
@@AstraWerke
👍👌👏 A flex tube between header and exhaust piping is always a good idea. Whether it's a relatively modern car or an Oldtimer.
2) Hmm... das sehe ich differenzierter. Denn unter Last respektive bei Last verhalten sich sich drehende Teile an Autos oft sehr unterschiedlich. Zumindest meiner langjährigen Erfahrung nach. So könnte zum Beispiel ihr Vibrationsproblem durchaus mit dem Getriebe zusammen hängen. Bei getretenem Kupplungspedal kann Ruhe einkehren, weil der Druck der Kupplung Lagerspiel und Ausrücklager quasi beruhigt respektive minimiert. Die Kardanwelle läuft/schwingt unter Last auch anders als ohne Last. Selbst bei gleicher Geschwindigkeit.
Es ist einfach lästig und schwierig die Ursachen von Vibrationen zu finden. Ich hoffe sie nicht zu sehr zu nerven. Ferndiagnosen sind eh meist unklar. Vibrationen muss man wohl selbst spüren um sie hernach aufspüren zu können.
Herr Tilo Sickinger erzählt in seiner Geschichte von genau dem ruhigen Motorlauf (nach Generalüberholung in Lehrwerkstatt vor vielen Jahren) den Sie anstreben. Im Prüfstand mit vollem Glas Wasser auf Zylinderkopf und Vollgas. Vielleicht lesen sie die Story einmal (falls nicht eh bereits bekannt).
Ansonsten kann ihnen vielleicht Paul Shinn in den USA und/oder Strong's Garage in Kanada helfen. Wobei es bestimmt in Europa auch wirkliche Model A Spezialisten gibt, oder?
Ich wünsche ihnen jedenfalls viel Erfolg beim minimieren der Vibrationen.
Post Scriptum: Wollte ihnen eigentlich einen kleinen Feuerlöscher als Unterdruck Vorratskammer vorschlagen. Dies haben Sie allerdings ja bereits in die Tat umgesetzt. 👍👌👏
@@Chr.U.Cas1622 Das stimmt, die Vibrationen treten aber auch dann auf, wenn ich einfach nur im Leerlauf gas gebe.
Ich hatte dabei auch schon mal probeweise den Riemen runter genommen, um eine Unwucht in Ventilator und Lichtmaschine ausschließen zu können.
Den Artikel von Hrn. Sicklinger habe ich mehrfach gelesen - faszinierende Geschichte.
Die Laufruhe seines Motors kann ich leider nicht reproduzieren - und ich habe bis jetzt auch kein Model A erlebt, was diese Laufruhe zeigen würde.
Ich habe schon den Tip bekommen, dass die Verteilernocke Mist sein könnte. Was nutzt ein balancierter Motor, wenn die Zündfolge ungleich ist?
Um das zu prüfen, muss ich allerdings noch eine Möglichkeit finden, den Motor um genau 180° zu drehen... Ich schau, was ich tun kann.
@@AstraWerke
Auch im Leerlauf! Das ist 💩! Kann dann wohl tatsächlich nur mit dem Motor respektive dessen Schwungmassen zusammen hängen. Pech. Schade, dass es ausgerechnet bei einem neu und akribisch aufgebauten Motor auftritt.
2) Zündnocken- Spur lohnt das Verfolgen. Wenn Sie mit dem Auto in eine gute Bosch Werkstatt fahren, müsste man doch auf dem Monitor des Testers eine Ungleichheit im Zündungsverlauf sehen können. Natürlich muss mit verschiedenen Drehzahlen getestet werden.
Es entzieht sich leider meiner Kenntnis ob es heutzutage vielleicht bereits irgendwelche Diagnose Apps fürs Smartphone oder Laptop gibt.
3) Würde eine kontaktlose (digitale) Zündung eventuell Abhilfe schaffen können?
Da fällt mir ein: In Mülheim- Kärlich (bei Koblenz) besitzt die deutschlandweit bekannte und anerkannte Vergaser- und Zündungsspezialistin Anette Hue eine ständig ausgebuchte Werkstatt. Vielleicht hat sie einen Tipp für einen besseren Vergaser und Zündung. Fragen kostet nichts.
Bis zum nächsten Mal verbleibe ich mit freundlichen Grüßen.
Gute Nacht.
Adrian, I would check the rate of flow on each jet. If needed, they can be silver soldered and re drilled. Thanks for the interesting video.
Zum Lärm: über diese matten nochmal günstigen Teppich kleben und vor allem zur spritzwand hin noch solche dämmmatten.... Es gibt so zeug was aussieht wie diese malerplane aus Stofffaserresten nur in dicker. Das hilft auch gut.
Von Matten muss ich Abstand halten - konstruktionsbedingt regnet es in die Türen rein - und wenn sich der Filz dann vollzusaugen beginnt, beginnt der Verfall. Dann lieber ein bisschen mehr Krach.
Das stimmt natürlich.
Re: your carb. The fact that the GAV is affecting the idle rpm is definitely a sign that something's not right. Do you have a timing light or tachometer that you can use to measure the rpm? I would like to know your baseline idle rpm with the GAV closed.
The problem manifests while engine braking and stopping, which are both situations in which the driver releases the accelerator pedal, thus closing the butterfly valve, while the engine is still generating strong vacuum.
I would take two diagnostic steps:
1. Temporarily disconnect the vacuum wiper line from the intake and plug the hole. You want to be sure that air isn't being sucked in from that line by the powerful vacuum during engine braking. If there were a leak in that line which only opens during engine braking, it would produce the behavior you describe. Then close the GAV while driving and see whether you get the stall condition when engine braking.
2. If the condition is not cured by step 1, then, as you slow down and the engine starts to stall, pull the choke rod. Pulling the choke rod should dump fuel into the FAM temporarily and reduce the lean condition.
Report back on whether either of these have any effect.
Measuring idle speed with the GAV closed would be difficult, as it starts to miss, hickup and then die. With the GAV about 1/8 to 1/4 open, I'd say it's between 250 and 350 rpm depending on whether I'm standing uphill or downhill.
Playing with the GAV in said positions, I'm pretty sure that the car runs lean with the nose facing down and rich facing uphill - with the position of the secondary well, that's the nature of the thing, I reckon.
I had disconnected and sealed off the wiper hose - to no avail. Haven't tried choking it yet, but I'd imagine that'd be similar to opening the GAV while approaching the stop, which cures the issue.
@@AstraWerke Does the idle air mixture screw have any effect when you open and close it? If yes, have you done the procedure to optimize your idle using both the throttle stop and the idle air mix screws?
@@alexiskai If you mean the basic carb tuning procedure, yes I have.
Idle it down, close the idle mix screw until it starts to run rough, open it up until it starts to run rough, set screw in the middle.
@@AstraWerke OK, so that means you are running on the idle circuit. But clearly also running on the CAP circuit because the GAV is affecting the idle speed. Weird.
This kind of issue is difficult to troubleshoot when you only have one carb and you don't have access to a "known good" carb. If there are problems with the passages in the cast carb body, there's no way to isolate that. This might be a problem you have to live with unless/until you get access to another Zenith for comparison.
As a workaround, you might try setting the idle at 400 rpm, with the idle mix adjusted accordingly. This speed is still low enough that you shouldn't grind any gears when shifting, and the engine might be able to cope with high vacuum better.
@@alexiskai There's no trouble if I don't retard the spark all the way. Having the lever about half way down the quadrant will keep the engine running more or less good during deceleration, but it will cause a little gear clashing when going into 1st from a dead stop.
At the moment, my routine whenever I see a traffic light go red is: Open the Gav, get off the throttle, retard spark to half, come to a stop, get out of gear, retard spark all the way.
It works, but it's alot, especially in rush-hour traffic.
I noticed in your explanation of the idle problem. Here is a youtube video, of how to "Calibrate Throttle accelerator Linkage, which may help ??😀 Link:th-cam.com/video/GEO83u2GDpg/w-d-xo.html
Linkage Calibration makes sure the throttle doesn't bottom out before the carburetter does. It doesn't affect the mixture.
For the vibration, did you replace your universal?, front drive shaft bearing? I had a bad vibe in mine, changed the universal and front bearing, vibe gone. A customer of mine had a loose pressure plate. On the carb, Paul could be right, but you did check all that. However, I have seen cracked and warped manifolds. Hard to find or see sometimes. Also, I had a carb give me problems like you have. First, float looked ok. I changed it anyway and better. I was using a viton tip float valve. Good at first but after 4 months it would stick shut. I have tried numerous ones from reputable vendors, same story. So I went back to the cheapo one from Brattons. No problems. I realize people love them, but I had no luck. Just some food for thought. Let us know how things turn out.
The vibrations also occur when just revving the engine in neutral, so I can rule out the drivetrain.
Thanks for the tips regarding the carb, I've gotten loads of clues to hunt down and I'll keep you updated once I find something out
@@AstraWerke
Thank you for your reply. I did not know it vibrated in neutral. Flywheel balanced? Mine is cut to 45 pounds. Easier on rear main. Motor mounts? I don't like floata-motors. Engine components balanced? If you used inserts, the rear main must fit right. You're a very skilled guy and I'm sure you know all of the things I've asked. I've just seen some crazy stuff with these cars. Paul Shinn is a great guy to know. Thankfully you have him to bounce things off of. Please keep me posted, I'm always interested in learning something new. Brian
@brianmatthews9697 If you have some extra time to kill, take a look at my other "Mechanic's Logs". You'll find I balanced Pistons, Pins, Rods and Flywheel. Clutch and Crankshaft were already pretty good. I ran the engine in neutral without a belt to rule out the water pump, fanblade and generator as possible cause. I don't see how Float-a-Motors would increase engine vibrations - they may ruin your frame and screw up the geometry of the drivetrain, but shouldn't turn a good running engine into a rattlecan. I know Paul Shinn, we even did a video collaboration when I refurbished my steering box.
@@AstraWerke
Is your carburetor balanced? Mine was not, I also run an air filter. But these carburetors from the factory have atmospheric Vents and they are not intended for an air filter. There are plenty of resources on how to balance a zenith carburetor. And all that is is tying all those atmospheric vents into the filtered air. I had some trouble with mine sometimes. It would either run lean or Rich depending on the situation and it was not consistent. I balanced my carburetor and it seemed to fix it.
Hadn't heard about that yet, did a quick search online and found a very even pro/contra distribution, some claiming it fixed the issue, others claiming the opposite.
Not sure if I want to risk ruining my carburettor for an experiment, so I'll do a test drive without air filter and see if the issue prevails - if it doesn't, I'll come back to the balancing idea.
@@AstraWerke I would definitely try that. it won't cost you anything. It was hard to tune mine for everything. It would idle like garbage and backfire on decel. But it seems to run great now that I balanced my carb.
@@AstraWerke I am 21 and also daily drive my car rain or shine. So I run into all sorts of little things that need addressing. I have a 2500 mile trip in a month so I am trying to make sure the car is in excellent running condition.
@@ethanweixel3336 Is it the red Chevy in your profile picture?
I'm completely on your side with that philosophy. My dream would be to get to drive a Model A as they went off the factory line 90 years ago, just so I have a reference what these cars really were like, without the washed-out and glorified memory of grandpas telltales.
@@AstraWerke I have a mid to late 1930 Tudor model A. I rebuilt the chassis this winter and am currently still working on it. But still driving it like it were any other car. Model As make people smile as Paul Shinn says.
Your idling circuit is not working. This book would be very helpful to you: Zeneth Model A Carburetor Restoration Guidelines by Steve Pargeter. Version 3. Address one problem at a time. Good luck.
Are you not supposed to NOT close the gas adjustment valve all the way? (Close it all the way and then 1/4 back). Otherwise mixture is to lean (Check the spark plugs, they should be coffee brown, and NOT white! :)
The owners manual states "On long trips some drivers make a practice of driving with the adjusting rod turned all the way off. This accouts for the excellent gasoline mileage obtained by good drivers."
That being said, I have recently pulled the plugs after a high-speed run and found them to be pretty white, so it seems every carb is a little different.
@@AstraWerke i fully agree on that. But i guess thats only for long trips without stopping. You have the issue that it dies at stopping so your mixture is to lean.
I would watch out driving so lean/cheap lol. You have now rebuild engine with full compression, and white spark plugs tells you the mixture is to lean. Gasoline acts also as a cooland. Before you know you are burning you exhaust valves or creating a lot of wear on the engine because of high temperature.
@@ClintdeB Main Mistake: Listen to what the manual says.
I'll have to go for a ride without messing with the GAV, then look at the plugs and see how much the fuel consumption increased. Because if it didn't noticeably, I might as well leave everything as is, stop fumbling with the adjustment all the time and enjoy motoring instead of trying to fix issues that aren't even there.
Die hübsch kleine Lötlampe, bei 19:25 gefällt mir. Was ist das denn für ein Fabrikat?
"EHT-Lampe" steht drauf.
@@AstraWerke Danke! Wie ich in der letzten Stunde feststellen musste: Ein neues 'Rabbit Hole'. :O
Mal hoffen, dass ich am Wochenende auf dem Flohmarkt vielleicht über sowas stolpere...!
@@TheMinimized Eigentlich sind die nicht besonders selten. Diese Taschenlötlampen gehörten damals zu jedem Bastlerhaushalt und waren sehr günstig zu haben
@@AstraWerke Okay, das kingt gut! Wahrscheinlich hab ich sowas sogar schon mal gesehen, aber dann nicht weiter beachtet. Es fiel mir nur im Video auf und danach dachte ich: 'Mhm, das könnte manchmal nützlich sein'...
Not all break cleaner is flammable. Make sure yours is flammable to validate your vac leak test.
Hoo-whee is it flammable xD
Muy bueno,el libro de juzgamiento es muy útil, con respecto al consumo esta perfecto, viajo en ford A y los uso a diario como auto de calle,nunca bajan de los 15lts/c100,los amigos que tenian autos que les gastaban menos cuando salimos juntos y llenamos tanques juntos , siempre gastan mas!, ahí les digo ,como tu auto no gastaba la mitad?. Los eh usado con zenith,thilloston,y carburadores nacionales mochi,se fabricaban aca en Argentina,con el mochi,anda mas rapido pero consume un poco más.
Empece a los 14 años a armar mi primer motor A, y estoy por cumplir 52,si usas Instagram pasamelo o te paso el mío,asi te mando imágenes de mis modelos A,saludos