Very informative video. Thank you for making it. I have a 96 Suzuki X90 with 34K miles (yes, 34K). I keep getting a check engine light with EGR code. This helped me understand the system enough to troubleshoot. Thank you.
You are welcome and thanks for saying so. I made another video trying to explain the egr system. The '95 model has a temperature sensor in the egr valve below the distributor and if that is disconnected or reads the wrong temperature then it will give egr code. The egr system is widely misunderstood. People think it is there to reduce pollution, but it's main purpose is to improve fuel mileage. The trade off is that it gunks up the intake system eventually.
A heads up to anyone doing this job: there are two 5/8” freeze plugs that allow access to the passage ways. If you remove the plugs you can shine a flashlight in to verify that all the crud is gone. Carbon dissolves in acetone. A ton of q-tips on forceps got the job done after using a poker to break through the hardened crust.
Great video. Is this exhaust manifold a part that I can take off of the engine without re-timing and all that? I already took off the EGR valve and cleaned it, but I suspect that I need to clean this part as well.
You mean the intake manifold, right? Yes, you can remove it by taking the entire intake plenum (assembly) off. Some of the nuts will be difficult to get at with the engine still in the car. I show the removal in a couple of videos. No need to change the timing.
It is just a piece of copper wire that I had. Probably like 10 gauge or maybe 8. Not sure. You should be able to find something that will work at a hardware store.
What was your engine running like which made you suspect the EGR system? Mine doesn't run well and idle time and has a dead spot just when you touch the gas
I never ran the engine in the video before working on it. The EGR is basically a valve that allows a little exhaust into the intake system. See my video on the EGR system. The only time it opens is when driving a warmed up engine at a constant speed. Otherwise it is always closed. Unless it is somehow stuck open then it should not have any effect on engine idle. If you want to contact me through my face book page, suzuki sidekick restoration project, I can try to help you figure it out.
I have the same issue just a small dead spot at a quick throttle. No mechanic cant figure it out, they all say it’s running fine but I KNOW MY CAR. Last time I clean the egr it was filthy but I forgot to look at the ports. More than likely they clogged up too smh and this is probably my issue from the start.
U seem like you really know these little motors, do u know if u can egr delete a 91 8v if so would it be the components in the egr system video? Is there egr stuff on the throttle body?
EGR has a vacuum tube to the intake system somewhere (I don't know where on a '91 model). Remove that vacuum tube and then plug the hole to the intakes (so it doesn't suck air in and mess up fuel air ratio). I think it is a bad idea though, it will not harm the engine, but just causes it to work a little harder and lowers fuel mileage a little bit. Remember that the air quality factor is just a side effect of the EGR, the original purpose was to increase efficiency by reducing the pumping pressure -- that is the amount of work the engine does to suck air in on the down stroke. The exhaust gas goes in and reduces the vacuum a little without changing the amount of oxygen -- doesn't effect fuel air ratio. It only operates when cruising at a steady speed with partial throttle. It closes and does not operate at idle or full throttle or acceleration -- only at steady speed. Good luck.
I used a suction sandblaster. It is a nozzle that connects to the air compressor and has a suction tube. Not great, but it works. I think it was like $30 on Amazon. I use it to clean lots of small parts.
The EGR solenoid valve is suppose to be closed (no volts) when idling. If it is surging when idling then it is most likely a computer problem opening and closing the idle air control valve improperly or possibly a fuel flow problem or a fuel quality problem or even an airflow problem. If it is surging when you try driving at a steady speed then it might be an issue with one of the components of the EGR system. I don't have nearly enough info about your problem to do more than guess. I am assuming that it is surging during idle and that would not be related to EGR. You can chat with me through my face book page, facebook.com/SidekickRebuild.
Yes, it is aluminum. I tried cleaning in hot water with dawn dish soap. It worked a little and then went back to wd40 and used the soap and water for a final cleaning.
Use a oxy/acetylene or oxy/propane torch next time and burn out the passages. Don't use any solvents before using the torch. Start with the flame getting the carbon hot and burning, then turn off the fuel. Crank the oxygen flow up and let the carbon burn out.
Very informative video. Thank you for making it. I have a 96 Suzuki X90 with 34K miles (yes, 34K). I keep getting a check engine light with EGR code. This helped me understand the system enough to troubleshoot. Thank you.
You are welcome and thanks for saying so. I made another video trying to explain the egr system. The '95 model has a temperature sensor in the egr valve below the distributor and if that is disconnected or reads the wrong temperature then it will give egr code. The egr system is widely misunderstood. People think it is there to reduce pollution, but it's main purpose is to improve fuel mileage. The trade off is that it gunks up the intake system eventually.
A heads up to anyone doing this job: there are two 5/8” freeze plugs that allow access to the passage ways. If you remove the plugs you can shine a flashlight in to verify that all the crud is gone. Carbon dissolves in acetone. A ton of q-tips on forceps got the job done after using a poker to break through the hardened crust.
Great video. Is this exhaust manifold a part that I can take off of the engine without re-timing and all that? I already took off the EGR valve and cleaned it, but I suspect that I need to clean this part as well.
You mean the intake manifold, right? Yes, you can remove it by taking the entire intake plenum (assembly) off. Some of the nuts will be difficult to get at with the engine still in the car. I show the removal in a couple of videos. No need to change the timing.
What is the metal attached to the tools that you use for this clean process? Where can i get it?
It is just a piece of copper wire that I had. Probably like 10 gauge or maybe 8. Not sure. You should be able to find something that will work at a hardware store.
What was your engine running like which made you suspect the EGR system? Mine doesn't run well and idle time and has a dead spot just when you touch the gas
I never ran the engine in the video before working on it. The EGR is basically a valve that allows a little exhaust into the intake system. See my video on the EGR system. The only time it opens is when driving a warmed up engine at a constant speed. Otherwise it is always closed. Unless it is somehow stuck open then it should not have any effect on engine idle. If you want to contact me through my face book page, suzuki sidekick restoration project, I can try to help you figure it out.
I have the same issue just a small dead spot at a quick throttle. No mechanic cant figure it out, they all say it’s running fine but I KNOW MY CAR. Last time I clean the egr it was filthy but I forgot to look at the ports. More than likely they clogged up too smh and this is probably my issue from the start.
you know everything about geo tracker
U seem like you really know these little motors, do u know if u can egr delete a 91 8v if so would it be the components in the egr system video? Is there egr stuff on the throttle body?
EGR has a vacuum tube to the intake system somewhere (I don't know where on a '91 model). Remove that vacuum tube and then plug the hole to the intakes (so it doesn't suck air in and mess up fuel air ratio). I think it is a bad idea though, it will not harm the engine, but just causes it to work a little harder and lowers fuel mileage a little bit. Remember that the air quality factor is just a side effect of the EGR, the original purpose was to increase efficiency by reducing the pumping pressure -- that is the amount of work the engine does to suck air in on the down stroke. The exhaust gas goes in and reduces the vacuum a little without changing the amount of oxygen -- doesn't effect fuel air ratio. It only operates when cruising at a steady speed with partial throttle. It closes and does not operate at idle or full throttle or acceleration -- only at steady speed. Good luck.
How did you blow the salt through ?
I used a suction sandblaster. It is a nozzle that connects to the air compressor and has a suction tube. Not great, but it works. I think it was like $30 on Amazon. I use it to clean lots of small parts.
Couldn't the port be clean with brake cleaner and air pressure???
Maybe. Give it a try. I was working inside my garage in winter so I couldn't use chemicals like brake cleaner because of air quality.
I cleaned mine and it stopped surging for a while but started again plz help I have sea fine in the tank as well
The EGR solenoid valve is suppose to be closed (no volts) when idling. If it is surging when idling then it is most likely a computer problem opening and closing the idle air control valve improperly or possibly a fuel flow problem or a fuel quality problem or even an airflow problem. If it is surging when you try driving at a steady speed then it might be an issue with one of the components of the EGR system. I don't have nearly enough info about your problem to do more than guess. I am assuming that it is surging during idle and that would not be related to EGR. You can chat with me through my face book page, facebook.com/SidekickRebuild.
can i use water?
Yes, it is aluminum. I tried cleaning in hot water with dawn dish soap. It worked a little and then went back to wd40 and used the soap and water for a final cleaning.
Thanks man I bet this is what wrong with my 96 Geo tracker
Aack! Little holes, too. Well, now I have more work to do.
Use a oxy/acetylene or oxy/propane torch next time and burn out the passages. Don't use any solvents before using the torch. Start with the flame getting the carbon hot and burning, then turn off the fuel. Crank the oxygen flow up and let the carbon burn out.
I actually don't have a torch, thinking about getting one. Next time I have to clean it I will consider your suggestion.